Category Archives: Reviews

Vigneau-Chevreau, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Silex” 2014

($21, Michael Corso Selection): I love Vouvray.  My frustration with the wines is that it’s often difficult to tell the level of sweetness before pulling the cork.  Thankfully, this one, labeled Sec, accurately describes the wine.  It captures the tension — the steely dryness combined with a delicate fruitiness — that makes Vouvray so invigorating. Read more

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Dry Fumé Blanc 2014

($31): When it comes to winemaking, Grgich Hills Estate can do no wrong.  Of course it excels with Chardonnay.  Miljenko “Mike” Grgich made the Chardonnay when he was at Chateau Montelena that instantly put California wine on the map when judges — French no less — placed it first, besting prestigious white Burgundies in a blind tasting, the so-called Judgment of Paris, forty years ago. Read more

Bonny Doon Vineyard, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Beeswax Vineyard “Le Cigare Blanc” Reserve 2013

($28): Le Cigare Blanc, the white counterpart of Bonny Doon’s Cigare Volant, which emulates the red wine of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is a typical Rhône blend: Roussanne (55%), Grenache Blanc (26%), and Picpoul Blanc.  It’s a lovely interpretation of a white Rhône with stone fruit richness and sufficient balancing acidity to keep it interesting, but not so much as to make your mouth pucker. Read more

Jordan, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

($55): Jordan consistently makes a beautifully graceful Cabernet Sauvignon.  The 2012 is even more so, full-flavored, yet elegant with a suave texture.  Although a mouth-filling wine, it is not heavy.  It impresses with its elegance and complexity, not brute force.  Layers of red and black fruit flavors intermingle with herbal earthy notes. Read more

Frescobaldi, Toscana IGT (Italy) “Mormoreto” 2011

($62): So-called international blends in Tuscany can be fabulous or a heavy-handed disaster.  Put Frescobaldi’s Mormoreto into the former category.  The winemaking team there clearly knows what it’s doing.  The 2011 Mormoreto, a typical Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Cabernet Franc (30%), Merlot (20%), and Petit Verdot, brings together a marvelous mixture of fruity elements, savory nuances and a firm minerality. Read more

Migration, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard 2013

($68): One of the things I love about Migration’s Pinot Noirs is that their vineyard designation is not a marketing tool, but rather reflects where the grapes are grown.  Take this one from the Bien Nacido Vineyard.  Riper fruit flavors dominate with fewer savory elements compared to their 2013 Dutton Ranch bottling (previously reviewed). Read more

Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Abruzzo, Italy) “Riparosso” 2014

($15, Montcalm Wine Imports): A steal, this wine is in the “buy it by the case” category. Always a good buy, the 2014 vintage is especially noteworthy because Illuminati made no riserva that year.  Grapes from their 45-year old vineyard that usually go into the riserva wound up in the Riparosso, imparting extra density, concentration and refinement.Read more

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015

($18): Dry Creek Vineyard consistently makes an array of easy-to-recommend fine wines.  This Sauvignon Blanc is one of them.  The winemaking team incorporated a touch of Sauvignon Gris and Sauvignon Musqué, two “relatives” of Sauvignon Blanc, into the blend.  Those varieties add a bit of depth and weight that balances the grassiness and edginess of Sauvignon Blanc.  Read more

Cambria Estate Vineyards & Winery, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir “Benchbreak” 2013

($25): This could be the best-value California Pinot Noir on the market.  Full disclosure:  I’ve not tasted them all, but I’m waiting to find a better one at the price.  It has the alluring ying-yang-like savory-fruity combination.  The emphasis is on the savory earthy nuances that Pinot Noir can transmit when it’s not overdone. Read more