($15, T. Edward Wines): Crémant d’Alsace continues to gain in popularity, accounting for a quarter of the region’s production. The real gem in that category for me is the Crémant Rosé, which, by law, must be made entirely from Pinot Noir. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Sonoma-Loeb, Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay 2014
($27): Sangiacomo Vineyard is one of the most acclaimed growing sites in California. Located in the Carneros region, where cooling air from the Pacific Ocean flows in via the San Francisco and San Pablo Bays, it is an ideal locale for edgy Chardonnay. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015
($18): Dry Creek Vineyard consistently makes an array of easy-to-recommend fine wines. This Sauvignon Blanc is one of them. The winemaking team incorporated a touch of Sauvignon Gris and Sauvignon Musqué, two “relatives” of Sauvignon Blanc, into the blend. Those varieties add a bit of depth and weight that balances the grassiness and edginess of Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Cambria Estate Vineyards & Winery, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir “Benchbreak” 2013
($25): This could be the best-value California Pinot Noir on the market. Full disclosure: I’ve not tasted them all, but I’m waiting to find a better one at the price. It has the alluring ying-yang-like savory-fruity combination. The emphasis is on the savory earthy nuances that Pinot Noir can transmit when it’s not overdone. … Read more
Sonoma-Loeb, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch 2014
($40): A hint of savory notes offset the bright cherry-like flavors in this generous wine. A lush suave texture is engaging and makes it ideal for current consumption. Those who prefer a hint of ripe fruit bordering on sweetness in the finish will embrace this Pinot Noir. … Read more
La Crema, Monterey (California) Pinot Noir 2014
($23): Though a fruit-focused Pinot Noir, it delivers a hint of leafy flavors that keeps it in balance. Mild tannins lend support without intruding on its plush texture so it would be a good choice for drinking this summer. It finishes bright, not sweet, which is another plus. … Read more
Albatross Ridge, Carmel Valley (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir Estate Reserve 2013
($55): Albatross Ridge, a producer that has, sadly, been under my radar, hit the bull’s eye with this Pinot Noir. It’s a near magical combination of smoky savory notes with ripe black fruit nuances. Its “not just fruit” character makes it seductive and charming — and keeps you coming back for more. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (California) Pinot Noir 2013
($55): Goldeneye, the Pinot Noir-focused winery in Anderson Valley, was founded in 1997 by the Napa-based Duckhorn winery. Their 15+ years of experience there with Pinot Noir shows in their wines, even this one, which is a blend from more than one site in the Anderson Valley. … Read more
Sauvignon Republic, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2014
($10): Need a wine to cut through summer’s heat and humidity? Here it is — and a bargain to boot. Cutting and zingy, it will electrify the palate. Don’t drink it as a stand-alone aperitif, but reach for it when you’re having spicy Asian fare.… Read more
Domaine Jolly et Fils, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume (L’Homme Mort) 2014
($28, Esprit du Vin): The Fourchaume vineyard, really a collection of neighboring plots all of which can be sold under the Fourchaume label, is known for producing the most generous and fruity Chablis. That said, they typically have, like this one from L’Homme Mort (“the dead man”), a riveting underpinning. … Read more
Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2013
($225): It’s worth repeating: Will Berliner, winemaker and owner of Cloudburst, his tiny estate in Western Australia’s Margaret River, turns out consistently superb Chardonnay, in addition to his stellar Cabernet Sauvignon, despite his lack of formal winemaking training. There’s a Burgundian Grand Cru sensibility about this 2013 Chardonnay: Engaging toastiness that is replaced by minerality and fruitiness as it sits in the glass and blossoms. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Clarksburg (California) Dry Chenin Blanc Wilson Ranch 2015
($13): Even though the grape variety is Chenin Blanc, Dry Creek Vineyard labels it as Dry Chenin Blanc for emphasis, which is appropriate. Fresh and vibrant, it’s a blissful harmony of fruit and zing. Think sushi or poolside. Buy it by the case for the summer.… Read more
Miner, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Family’s Cuvée” 2013
($50): This big and bold Napa Cabernet is surprisingly harmonious and not over the top. Full-bodied and robust, it remains balanced with a texture that alternates between chewy and suave. There’s a captivating savoriness and a lush, but not sweet, finish. … Read more
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Toscana IGT (Italy) “Poggio alle Gazze” 2014
($65, Folio Fine Wines): Ornellaia’s white wines fly under the radar because their red wines are so outstanding. That situation won’t last for long. Poggio alle Gazze is an unconventional blend of roughly two-thirds Sauvignon Blanc with Vermentino, Verdicchio and Viognier. … Read more
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Bolgheri Superiore (Tuscany, Italy) Ornellaia 2013
($225, Folio Fine Wines): Ornellaia is truly an iconic Super Tuscan that shows that Bordeaux does not have a monopoly on making great wine from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The 2013 growing season in Bolgheri was cooler than usual, producing less opulent, but to my mind no less enjoyable, wines. … Read more
Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($250): As I’ve said before, “Will Berliner is either a visionary or has beginner’s luck. An American married to an Australian and settled in Western Australia’s Margaret River area, Berliner has no formal education or real background in wine.” Yet he continues to turn out spectacular wines. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2014
($32): With more creaminess than bite, Merry Edwards’s expression of Sauvignon Blanc is reminiscent of white Bordeaux rather than Sancerre. Long and refined, it’s a seductive wine with a glossy texture accented by a touch of electricity that reminds you it is, in fact, Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2014
($29): Who knew that Duckhorn, well known for their brilliant red wines, made such an invigorating Sauvignon Blanc. Tension filled, it combines a pleasing bite with a hint of creaminess. A great ying and yang wine.
92 Michael Apstein May 17, 2016… Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2013
($43): Grgich Hills Estate consistently produces superb Chardonnay. And even the release of their super-duper Commemorative bottling has not detracted from their “regular” bottling. The team at Grgich Hills has managed to combine ripeness with enormous energy in this Chardonnay. It’s balanced, long and refined, with a hint of spice in the finish. … Read more
MacRostie Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2014
($42): This straightforward Pinot Noir is bright and full of cherry-like fruit. A hint of savory herbal notes adds complexity. Mild tannins allow for immediate consumption. It would be a good choice for grilled salmon.
88 Michael Apstein May 17, 2016… Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Colli Martani DOC (Umbria, Italy) Grechetto “Grecante” 2015
($19, Wilson Daniels): Arnaldo-Caprai is one of the top producers of Sagrantino di Montefalco, a sturdy long lived red wine. It turns out he does equally well with a more delicate white. This Grechetto delivers a lovely and lively crispness without being aggressive or overbearing. … Read more
MacRostie Winery, Sonoma Coast (California) Chardonnay Wildcat Mountain Vineyard 2013
($40): One of the reasons I admire MacRostie’s Chardonnays is that their single vineyard offerings are sufficiently different from each other to make separate bottlings actually meaningful. They are unique wines. Contrast that approach with wineries whose “single vineyard” bottlings reflect a marketing strategy, not a difference in site.… Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay 2013
($35): Presqu’ile (pronounced press-KEEL) is already making a name for itself despite being founded less than a decade ago. This, their “basic” Chardonnay (though hardly basic at all), is energetic and refined, finishing with uplifting, lip-smacking citrus notes instead of sweetness. … Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay Presqu’ile Vineyard 2013
($45): This, Presqu’ile’s single vineyard Chardonnay, is truly a singular wine. In a word, it’s graceful. There’s a luxurious creaminess, but it’s not in your face or over the top and it’s balanced by perfect lemon-y notes. Long and lacey, it reveals itself slowly in the glass. … Read more
MacRostie Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Dutton Ranch 2013
($46): MacRostie is on a roll with their Chardonnays. Despite a stated alcohol of 14.6%, the wine is restrained, but not lacking in flavor or energy. There’s a touch of spice that adds interest. The overall impression is one of harmony and balance. … Read more
Casale Falchini, Toscana IGT (Italy) “Paretaio” 2011
($25): A steal. Let me repeat — this wine is a steal. Falchini is perhaps best known for their lovely Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Vigna a Solatio, which at $13, is another steal, but that’s another story. Their Paretaio, a Super Tuscan in everything but the price, could easily become their calling card. … Read more
Castello ColleMassari, Montecucco Rosso Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($26): Montecucco is a small DOC in Tuscany bordering Brunello di Montalcino, its far more famous — and expensive — neighbor. Montecucco Rosso is analogous to Rosso di Montalcino in that in is Montecucco’s earlier drinking wine. The Riserva designation means it’s undergone additional aging and presumably is better wine. … Read more
Alberto Longo, Puglia IGT (Italy) Falanghina “Le Fossette” 2014
($15): Alberto Longo is a name to remember. Anyone who can make such a bright and lively white wine in Puglia, home to big reds, is a producer to know. This Falanghina is floral and fresh with laser-like precision in the finish. … Read more
Alberto Longo, Puglia IGT (Italy) Negroamaro “Capoposto” 2013
($20, T. Edward Wines): To use a highly technical word to describe this wine, yummy! It’s both refined and exotic with black cherry-like notes balanced by earthy ones so it’s not just fruity. It has good weight and density without being heavy. … Read more
Alberto Longo, Cacc’e Mmitte di Lucera (Puglia, Italy) 2013
($19): One of the advantages of an impossible to pronounce DOC, such as Cacc’e Mmitte di Lucera (very roughly, ca-tch-y mint-y di lu-chair-a) is that the wines are underpriced for what they deliver because consumers are afraid — or can’t — order them. … Read more
Jackson Estate, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay 2014
($28): This ripe (14.5%-stated abv) and toasty Chardonnay delivers plump melon-y flavors on a soft-ish background, even finishing a touch sweet. It’s fine as a stand alone — “I’ll have a glass of Chardonnay” — or to accompany spiced Asian fare. … Read more
Jordan Vineyard and Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2014
($32): With California Chardonnays and white Burgundies commanding high prices, it’s a delight to find an excellent one at a reasonable price. Jordan makes two wines, a Cabernet Sauvignon and this Chardonnay. Both are consistently excellent. In a word — Okay, two words — Jordan’s 2014 Chardonnay is bright and rich. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Paris Tasting Commemorative” 2013
($93): Miljenko “Mike” Grgich, as much as anyone, is responsible for the world taking California wines seriously. In 1976, while he was winemaker at Chateau Montelena, he made a Chardonnay that astonished the world by beating out a bevy of white Burgundies for first place at a comparative tasting in Paris. … Read more
Fattoria Ambra, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Santa Cristina in Pilli” 2013
($20): Santa Cristina in Pilli is one of two single-vineyard (“crus”) Carmignano. (Ambra also produces two Carmignano Riservas from two other single vineyards.) This is another prime example of how Carmignano is underpriced. It’s a seamless combination conveying fruitiness and savory notes. … Read more
Capezzana, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($30): This stunning wine has the structure — firm without be hard or aggressive — you’d expect for an excellent young wine. With a “not just fruit” quality, it delivers a gorgeous combination of cherry-like fruit, herbal notes and earthy flavors. … Read more
Villa Artimino, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($20): If you need another example of how Carmignano over delivers, look no further than this one from Villa Artimino. Very fragrant, it has a touch more concentration without being overdone or sacrificing any elegance. It, too, has an engaging texture and a welcome firmness balanced by plenty of energy. … Read more
Piaggia, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Sasso” 2013
($26, Worldwide Cellars): Piaggia’s Il Sasso another wine that over delivers and demonstrates the value of Carmignano. A blend of Sangiovese (70%), Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc (20%) and Merlot, it is a sophisticated wine, delivering a bit of everything — black fruit, earthy and savory notes — and not too much of anything. … Read more
Capezzana, Barco Reale di Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2014
($14, Mionetti): This immediately accessible mid-weight wine combines fruit and earth with just the right amount of structure. It has extraordinary complexity for the price. Buy it by the case for this summer’s grilling season.
90 Michael Apstein May 3, 2016… Read more
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($25): Cecchi, though one of Tuscany’s great producers, flies under the radar. A family firm run currently by brothers Andrea and Cesare Cecchi, they produce a range of wines from estates in Tuscany and Umbria. This one, a traditionally framed Chianti Classico made from a blend of Sangiovese and Colorino, exhibits the near magical combination of bright red cherry-like fruit and savory herbal qualities. … Read more
J. J. Vincent, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) “Marie Antoinette” 2014
($26, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): If J. J. Vincent’s name is on a label, you can buy the wine with confidence knowing that you’ll enjoy it. Vincent, based in Pouilly-Fuissé, owns several vineyards in that appellation and makes distinctive wines from each of them, highlighting the diversity of the terroir there. … Read more
Domaine Parent, Pommard Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Epenots 2014
($140, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Domaine Parent, a top producer based in Pommard, has made a great array of wines in 2014. While many 2014 reds are forward and charming, Parent’s Les Epenots has structure and balance that will reward years of cellaring. … Read more
Domaine Lignier-Michelot, Morey St. Denis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Faconnières 2014
($105, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): I often wonder who is spending $100+ for a bottle of wine. I will not presume to judge whether this bottle, or any bottle, is worth that amount. What I will say is that Domaine Lignier-Michelot’s Morey St.… Read more
Domaine Humbert Frères, Fixin (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2014
($50, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): It’s a sad commentary of wine pricing when a bottle of Burgundy from Fixin, one of the least prestigious villages in the Côtes de Nuits, costs fifty bucks. But that’s life, and compared to many of the Pinot Noir coming out of California, it’s still a reasonable price for a wine made from that grape–especially this one. … Read more
Gruet, American (United States) Blanc de Blancs NV
($19): You can imagine the curled lips and other facial expressions on my guests when I told them I was ordering a sparkling wine from a New Mexico producer, which was on the list at a very French restaurant (Le Coq Rico, run by Antoine Westermann, who formerly was the chef/owner at a Michelin 3-star in Alsace). … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2014
($60, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Here is another shining example of the grandeur of the 2014 vintage for white Burgundy. Drouhin, one of the region’s finest producers, has fashioned a village wine that could pass for premier cru. It has a touch of the spice and complexity I associate with Meursault Genevrières. … Read more
Drouhin Domaine Vaudon, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2014
($75, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Domaine Vaudon is the name Drouhin uses for their Chablis. They want to emphasize, justifiably, that they own substantial vineyards there because of the foresight of the patriarch, Robert Drouhin, who purchased vineyards there almost 50 year ago. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2014
($65, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): It’s worth repeating: 2014 is a great vintage for white Burgundies, without doubt the best since 2010 and in the same league as those wines. In short, don’t miss them, including this modestly priced — for Grand Cru Burgundy — Chablis Vaudésir. … Read more
Pommier, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014
($25, Polaner Selections): The 2014 vintage for white Burgundy, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south, is exceptional. This village Chablis, from a small but top-notch producer, is just one example of the great values the vintage will provide. … Read more
Carpenè Malvolti, Prosecco Superior Conegliano Valdobbiadene (Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry NV
($16, Angelini Wine, Ltd): The Italians — and I love them — can be their own worst enemies. Take Prosecco, for example. This easy to pronounce, charming wine has taken the world by storm and has practically become a generic term for any sparkling wine. … Read more
Castello Banfi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio alle Mura” 2013
($32): Rosso di Montalcino can be an excellent introduction to the glories of Brunello di Montalcino, one of Italy’s iconic wines. Similar to Brunello, Rosso must be made entirely from Sangiovese. This one, from Castello Banfi, a leading Brunello producer whose dedicated work in the 1980s helped catapult Brunello onto the world’s wine stage, is truly a “baby Brunello.” … Read more