($35): Maison Drouhin, the superb Burgundy-based négociant, was the first French firm to invest in Oregon when they purchased vineyards in the Dundee AVA of the Willamette Valley 20+ years ago. Over the subsequent two decades, they’ve produced a very impressive array of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from their Dundee vineyards. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Presqu’ile Vineyards, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Syrah 2013
($35): The team at Presqu’ile clearly knows what they are doing. First, I tasted — and loved — their Chardonnay, reinforcing the idea that Santa Maria Valley is a good locale for that grape. Then I tasted — and loved — their Sauvignon Blanc, so I figured they were talented white wine producers. … Read more
Louis Martini, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($38): Louis Martini is one of the great names — a true icon — of California wine. Their wines continue to enhance the Martini reputation even after the winery was acquired by Gallo, a company that had the good sense to maintain the winery’s integrity and not turn it into brand. … Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2013
($54): There’s Merlot…and then there’s the real Merlot. Put this 2013 Duckhorn Merlot in the latter category. This should not be surprising. After all, it was Duckhorn with their Three Palms Merlot that showed the heights that this varietal could achieve in Napa. … Read more
Louis Martini, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($34): Though distinctly different from Martini’s Napa Valley bottling, it is equally appealing, perhaps because it is so different. This Cabernet is more floral and “pretty,” less mineraly and lacking the black olive note of its neighbor from Napa. It still manages to combine a mouth-watering savory component to mixture of fruit notes. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Lunae DOC (Liguria/Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2015
($31, Montcalm Wine Imports): I raved about the 2014 vintage of this wine, Lunae Bosoni’s flagship white made entirely from Vermentino. The 2015 is similarly stunning. Possibly the richest Vermentino I’ve ever had, it still retains lightness and vivacity with an invigorating zippy finish. … Read more
Mas des Bressades, Costières de Nîmes (Rhône Valley, France) “Cuvée Tradition” 2015
($15, Robert Kacher Selections): Costières de Nîmes, one of the lesser-known subregions of the greater Rhône Valley, lies on the right (western) bank of the river. Wines from here lack the popularity — and price — of the more upscale subregions, such as Vacqueyras or Cairanne. … Read more
Lucien Crochet, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Le Chêne” 2014
($30, Neal Rosenthal): This is the real deal. Sancerre has become so popular that some producers over crop to keep up with demand. As a result, many of the wines carrying that appellation are uninteresting, tasting like a Sauvignon from, well, anywhere. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Ursules “Domaine Héritiers Louis Jadot” 2013
($90, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, is also a “grower,” owning vineyards under a variety of Domaine names, such as Domaine Héritiers Louis Jadot (i.e., the heirs of Louis Jadot), throughout the Côte d’Or. … Read more
Presqu’Ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir 2014
($42): Presqu’ile seemingly does everything right. Take this Pinot Noir, for example–a lacey combination of red fruit flavors and spice. It’s not overdone in a “Pinot Syrah” style, but rather captures the subtleties of the variety as it dances across the palate.… Read more
Presqu’Ile, San Luis Obispo County (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Steiner Creek Vineyard 2014
($48): Presqu’ile buys grapes from the Phelan family who owns the Steiner Creek Vineyard, showing, once again, that consumers should not automatically shun wines that are not “estate.” This Pinot Noir is a notch–or two–above their very good Santa Maria bottling with more engaging aromatics and greater depth. … Read more
Spottswoode, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 2013
($186): Stunning is a word that leaps to mind after tasting this wine. Weighing in at less than 14 percent stated-alcohol, it dazzles with its elegance, harmony and length, not shear power. Though it has plenty of that, too. Paradoxically, almost, its power is restrained and not flamboyant. … Read more
Cerulli Spinozzi, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Colline Teramane DOCG (Abruzzo, Italy) “Torre Migliori” 2011
($20, Cru Artisan): The wines from Colline Teramane, Abruzzo’s only DOCG, fly under the radar for some inexplicable reason, which makes them a bargain for consumers. Since they’re rarely seen on wine lists, even in the trendiest wine bars, it remains for savvy consumers to try them on their own, at home. … Read more
Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Caillerets 2014
($102, Esprit du Vin): Les Caillerets, one of the grandest premier cru vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet, lies further south and further up the slope from Les Blanchots. Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay’s 2014, a bit closed at this stage, is tightly wound and racy, showing a dramatic stony minerality in contrast to the chalkiness from Les Blanchots Dessus. … Read more
Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Blanchots Dessus 2014
($104, Esprit du Vin): Les Blanchots Dessus (upper Blanchots; note the slight difference in spelling and, at least according to the French, but not this Anglophone, an enormous difference in pronunciation) comprises the upper part of the Blanchots vineyard and lies immediately to the south and adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyard, Le Montrachet. … Read more
Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2014
($64, Esprit du Vin): The Domaine Coffinet, established in 1860 in Chassagne-Montrachet, has been passed from one generation of the Coffinet family to the next. In 1989, Fernand and Cécile Coffinet split their 30-acre domaine between their two daughters, giving rise to Domaine Coffinet-Duverney, now run by Laura Coffinet and Philippe Duvernay.… Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Patzimaro Vineyard 2012
($95): Duckhorn Vineyards, which was the first to show us the potential of Merlot from Napa with their Three Palms bottling of it, now shows us the diversity of sites in Napa Valley with a series of single vineyard bottlings. Patzimaro Vineyard, located at the base of Spring Mountain in the St.… Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Howell Mountain (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($95): The expected power befitting a “mountain wine” is front and center. But the surprise is its incredible elegance for its size and weight. Alluring mineral-y earthy flavors balance the dark black fruit notes in this very polished wine. Succulent and long, it’s paradoxically powerful, yet subtle — quite an amazing combination. … Read more
Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Spain) Albarino 2015
($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Lovely wine, dreadful label. I rarely comment about a wine’s label. After all, it’s what’s in the bottle that counts. And in that category, this wine is easy to recommend. The problem is that the script on the label makes it almost impossible to figure out the name of the producer, so buying it is likely to be difficult. … Read more
Sartori di Verona, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (Veneto, Italy) Corte Brá 2007
($50, Cru Artisan): Sartori, a top producer based in the Veneto, bottles several Amarone. This one, Corte Brá, comes from a single vineyard and is, in my experience, always outstanding. The 2007 is particularly noteworthy because it is still widely available in the retail market and now, at a decade of age, is luscious and captivating. … Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso (Umbria, Italy) 2013
($20): Arnaldo-Caprai, certainly one of the top producers in Montefalco, has done an excellent job with this Montefalco Rosso, the baby brother of Sagrantino di Montefalco, which as DOCG status. Similar to other Rosso, such as Rosso di Montalcino, the Montefalco Rosso category gives the consumer an idea of what the Sagrantino di Montefalco, a wine that demands extended bottle aging to tame the tannins, might taste like since it is far more approachable at a young age. … Read more
Coppo, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) “Camp du Rouss” 2012
($21, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Barbera is a grape made for the cool and yes, wintery, weather ahead of us. And this one from Coppo is easy to recommend. It’s a pleasantly gutsy wine with briary fruit, good grip and uplifting acidity. … Read more
Pighin, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2015
($18, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Buying Pinot Grigio, one of America’s most popular white wines, is like walking through a mind field. With so many vapid examples on retailers’ shelves, it’s hard for a consumer to know how to choose. Well, you can start with this one by Pighin. … Read more
Pighin, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2015
($25, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Pighin’s Pinot Grigio, made from grapes grown in the Collio region of Friuli, is even more impressive that there Grave bottling. It has more of everything — concentration and finesse — without becoming overblown or blowsy. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Chouacheux Domaine Gagey 2013
($57, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): The 2013 vintage in Burgundy was difficult because rain during the harvest had the potential to swell the grapes, diluting them and the wine. Plus, dampness during harvest is a set up for rot. But talented producer, such as Louis Jadot, makes excellent wines even in “difficult” years. … Read more
Alamos, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2015
($13): Malbec has achieved popularity in this country because it can produce a big juicy red wine with mild or little tannic structure. The 2015 Malbec from Alamos fits that profile perfectly. Soft and fruity, it’s ideal for people searching for an inexpensive big red to have either before dinner or with hearty fare.… Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($40): This lovely young Cabernet Sauvignon delivers a balanced, palate-pleasing combination of dark fruit, herbs and other savory notes. Its suave tannins make this wine quite approachable and enjoyable now. A pleasant contrast to big, overblown Cabernets, Cadaretta’s emphasizes elegance over power.… Read more
La Crema, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2014
($25): La Crema’s Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir emphasizes the red cherry fruit nature of the variety. To their credit, the fruit flavors are fresh, not jammy, and not overdone. A whiff of savory notes appears in the background. Appealing tart cherry notes are apparent in the finish in keeping with the wine’s fruity profile. … Read more
Castello di Volpaia, Maremma DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Prelius” 2014
($14, Wilson Daniels): If you thought Castello di Volpaia was a great producer of Chianti Classico, you would be correct. But they also produce this bargain-priced Vermentino that shouldn’t be missed. Beautifully fresh, saline tinged, with uplifting acidity, it’s hard to find a better match for steamed clams or other simply prepared seafood. … Read more
Stemmari, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Grillo 2014
($11, Prestige Wine Imports): Stemmari works wonders with indigenous Sicilian varieties, such as Grillo. This one delivers an emblematic, ever so slightly bitter, saline component that makes it a delightful match for hearty seafood, perhaps in a tomato-based sauce, but less useful as a stand-alone aperitif. … Read more
Nativ, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2014
($24, Montcalm Wine Imports): Nativ’s Greco di Tufo, one of Campania’s signature white wines, conveys a stony, almost volcanic essence, which is not surprising since this grape grows well on Vesuvius’s soil. A tinge of bitterness in the finish buttressed by bracing acidity catapults this wine into the “easy-to-recommend” category because it’s a serious wine that delivers more than the price suggests. … Read more
Nativ, Fiano di Avellino DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2014
($28, Montcalm Wine Imports): Nativ’s Fiano is a bit more floral than their Greco di Tufo. Instead of transmitting a sense of volcanic ash, it conveys a delicate white flowery sensation. It’s also a touch weightier and more tropical than their Greco. … Read more
Château Lassègue, St. Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) “Les Cadrans de Lassègue” 2012
($29, Jackson Family Wines): This, the second wine of Château Lassègue, a property in the Jackson Family portfolio, is a marvelous buy. More polished than many second wines, it conveys a savory, almost funky — in a nice way — complement to its bright fruity flavors. … Read more
Bodegas Septima, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec “Obra” 2014
($25, Aveníu Brands): Obra, the reserve wine of Bodegas Septima, is a cut above the usual Malbec both in taste and in price. Good acidity and vibrancy balances its thick and juicy profile without being aggressive or harsh. This big red wine would be a good choice for robust grilled meats this fall.… Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015
($22): I have been impressed by the Chardonnay coming from Presqu’ile and now see that they do equally well with Sauvignon Blanc. This one, from their vineyard in Santa Maria Valley, is, in a word, balanced. Pleasantly herbal, as opposed to grassy, there’s an ever so slight roundness to its texture, as though the coarse edges of Sauvignon Blanc have been sanded. … Read more
Route Stock, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015
($17): Route Stock has managed to achieve harmonious balance in this Sauvignon Blanc. Without losing its distinctive cutting edginess, a subtle creaminess offsets the potential shrillness characteristic of the varietal. Nicely aggressive, delivering just the right about of pungency, it has a finish and delivers a complexity often lacking in Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015
($30): Duckhorn Vineyards continues to impress despite their long and stellar track record. Perhaps best known for their powerful, yet elegant, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, they also make noteworthy Chardonnay and, judging from this example, Sauvignon Blanc. They also know what they can — and cannot — do in Napa. … Read more
J. Lohr, St. Helena (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Carol’s Vineyard 2013
($60): One of the joys of tasting Cabernet Sauvignon from J. Lohr is that they show the diversity of California terroir. Tasted side-by-side, this one from a single vineyard in St. Helena in Napa Valley and their “Hilltop” Cabernet Sauvignon ($35, 89 points) from their vineyards in Paso Robles make a fascinating comparison. … Read more
Martin Ray, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Synthesis” 2013
($50): The big, heavy, oversized bottle makes me not want to like this wine. But the first whiff — a combination of red fruits and earthiness — wins you over easily. It delivers cherry-like fruit and minerals woven into a fine texture. … Read more
Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima, Vinho Regional Tejo (Portugal) Arinto/Chardonnay Reserva 2015
($15): Tejo, formerly known as Ribatejo, is a region just across the Tagus River from Lisbon, which is now starting to focus on higher quality wines rather than their traditional bulk production. This blend of Arinto, a grape indigenous to the Iberian Peninsula, and Chardonnay works well.… Read more
Vento di Mare, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola 2014
($12, Middleton Family Wines): Vento di Mare continues their streak of bargain-priced wines with this Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s iconic red grape. Similar to its Grillo and Pinot Grigio made from organic grapes, this Nero d’Avola delivers surprising complexity, both fruity and savory notes, for such a modest price. … Read more
Kir-Yianni, Amyndeon (Greece) “Akakies” Sparkling Dry Rosé 2014
($21, Diamond Wine Importers): The rising prices of Champagne coupled with the increasing popularity of all kinds of bubbly wine has necessitated thinking outside of the box. Outside the box for many might be Crémant de Bourgogne or even a sparkling Vouvray. … Read more
Paumanok, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Chenin Blanc 2014
($28): Chenin Blanc is a tough grape to transform into a balanced wine in North America because a little extra ripeness from the warmth of the growing season translates into an overly fruity and flabby wine. But when a winery hits it just right, as the team at Paumanok does on a regular basis, Chenin Blanc is an ideal summertime choice. … Read more
Paumanok, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Dry Rosé 2015
($18): As regular WineReviewOnline readers know well, I am not swept away by the tsunami of enthusiasm for rosé, often preferring to chill a light red wine, which makes my reaction to this one all the more startling. Made from Cabernet Franc, this rosé is dry and crisp with lots of character. … Read more
Castello di Meleto, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($22, Vias Imports): A blend of mostly (95%) Sangiovese and Malvasia Nero, this Chianti Classico delivers a harmonious contrast of herbal earthy flavors intermingled with pure fruity ones. Hallmark Tuscan acidity and firm tannins provide structure without being aggressive or intrusion. … Read more
Vento di Mare, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Grillo 2014
($12, Middleton Family Wines): As with their Pinot Grigio, Vento di Mare produces two wines, one from organic and one from conventional grapes, from Grillo, an indigenous Sicilian grape. This Grillo, from organic grapes, is slightly richer with a better texture and complexity compared to the one made from conventionally grown grapes. … Read more
Vento di Mare, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2014
($12, Middleton Family Wines): Vento di Mare produces two Pinot Grigios in Sicily — this one made from organically grown grapes, and one made from conventionally grown grapes. They’re very different wines. This one, from organically grown grapes, is slightly less floral, less fruity, leaner and more angular. … Read more
Stemmari, Sicilia DOC (Italy) Nero d’Avola 2014
($10, Prestige Wine Imports): Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s “red grape,” has the ability to deliver both fruity and savory notes simultaneously even when young, as it does in this wine. Stemmari’s delivers savory nuances of herbs and olives, which make a lovely counterpoint to the bright red fruit elements. … Read more
Fontana Candida, Frascati Superiore DOCG Riserva (Lazio, Italy) “Luna Mater” 2012
($23, Banfi Vintners): Fontana Candida’s Luna Mater will transform your image of Frascati, typically a light refreshing, but otherwise undistinguished, white wine. Well, Luna Mater is certainly distinguished. It’s not just more concentrated than the usual Frascati — though it is. … Read more
Cerulli Spinozzi, Pecorino Colli Aprutini IGT (Abruzzo, Italy) “Cortalto” 2014
($15): Cortalto’s a wine to buy by the case. The pleasing bite of Pecorino, the grape, could remind consumers of the cheese. Cerulli Spinozzi, one of the top producers in Abruzzo, manages to combine the attractive bite with good concentration and uplifting acidity in this fresh and lively wine. … Read more