Category Archives: Reviews

Nativ, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2014

($24, Montcalm Wine Imports): Nativ’s Greco di Tufo, one of Campania’s signature white wines, conveys a stony, almost volcanic essence, which is not surprising since this grape grows well on Vesuvius’s soil.  A tinge of bitterness in the finish buttressed by bracing acidity catapults this wine into the “easy-to-recommend” category because it’s a serious wine that delivers more than the price suggests. Read more

Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015

($22): I have been impressed by the Chardonnay coming from Presqu’ile and now see that they do equally well with Sauvignon Blanc.  This one, from their vineyard in Santa Maria Valley, is, in a word, balanced. Pleasantly herbal, as opposed to grassy, there’s an ever so slight roundness to its texture, as though the coarse edges of Sauvignon Blanc have been sanded. Read more

Vigneau-Chevreau, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Silex” 2014

($21, Michael Corso Selection): I love Vouvray.  My frustration with the wines is that it’s often difficult to tell the level of sweetness before pulling the cork.  Thankfully, this one, labeled Sec, accurately describes the wine.  It captures the tension — the steely dryness combined with a delicate fruitiness — that makes Vouvray so invigorating. Read more

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Dry Fumé Blanc 2014

($31): When it comes to winemaking, Grgich Hills Estate can do no wrong.  Of course it excels with Chardonnay.  Miljenko “Mike” Grgich made the Chardonnay when he was at Chateau Montelena that instantly put California wine on the map when judges — French no less — placed it first, besting prestigious white Burgundies in a blind tasting, the so-called Judgment of Paris, forty years ago. Read more

Bonny Doon Vineyard, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Beeswax Vineyard “Le Cigare Blanc” Reserve 2013

($28): Le Cigare Blanc, the white counterpart of Bonny Doon’s Cigare Volant, which emulates the red wine of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is a typical Rhône blend: Roussanne (55%), Grenache Blanc (26%), and Picpoul Blanc.  It’s a lovely interpretation of a white Rhône with stone fruit richness and sufficient balancing acidity to keep it interesting, but not so much as to make your mouth pucker. Read more

Jordan, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

($55): Jordan consistently makes a beautifully graceful Cabernet Sauvignon.  The 2012 is even more so, full-flavored, yet elegant with a suave texture.  Although a mouth-filling wine, it is not heavy.  It impresses with its elegance and complexity, not brute force.  Layers of red and black fruit flavors intermingle with herbal earthy notes. Read more

Frescobaldi, Toscana IGT (Italy) “Mormoreto” 2011

($62): So-called international blends in Tuscany can be fabulous or a heavy-handed disaster.  Put Frescobaldi’s Mormoreto into the former category.  The winemaking team there clearly knows what it’s doing.  The 2011 Mormoreto, a typical Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Cabernet Franc (30%), Merlot (20%), and Petit Verdot, brings together a marvelous mixture of fruity elements, savory nuances and a firm minerality. Read more

Migration, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard 2013

($68): One of the things I love about Migration’s Pinot Noirs is that their vineyard designation is not a marketing tool, but rather reflects where the grapes are grown.  Take this one from the Bien Nacido Vineyard.  Riper fruit flavors dominate with fewer savory elements compared to their 2013 Dutton Ranch bottling (previously reviewed). Read more

Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Abruzzo, Italy) “Riparosso” 2014

($15, Montcalm Wine Imports): A steal, this wine is in the “buy it by the case” category. Always a good buy, the 2014 vintage is especially noteworthy because Illuminati made no riserva that year.  Grapes from their 45-year old vineyard that usually go into the riserva wound up in the Riparosso, imparting extra density, concentration and refinement.Read more