($96): Bouchard Père et Fils, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, is also a grower, owning over 300-acres of vineyards in the Côte d’Or, including 30-acres of Grand Cru and about 180-acres of Premier Cru. They consistently excel in their Meursault. This magnificent Meursault Genevrières is a blend of two plots, totaling over 6-acres, that they own. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Bouchard Père et Fils, Chevalier-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2014
($300): Bouchard Père et Fils, owns over 1/3 of this Grand Cru vineyard that sits just above Le Montrachet, making them its largest owner. Their roughly 6.5-acres are located in all four terraces of the vineyard, which helps explain why their Chevalier-Montrachet is so complex. … Read more
Chateau du Basty, Régnié (Burgundy, France) 2015
($17, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Chateau du Basty, situated a stone’s throw from Régnié and Morgon, two of the Beaujolais cru, has been in the same family since 1482 so it’s safe to assume they know something about the area. When I tasted there last November, there was no electricity because of a wind storm. … Read more
Patton Valley Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate 2013
($34): At a trade tasting, I was impressed by the dramatic differences in Patton Valley Vineyard’s Pinot Noirs expressed depending on the location of the vineyard. Equally impressive is this one, blended from a variety of vineyard sites. Restrained, with more of a fruit than herbal focus, it is nicely balanced. … Read more
Bodegas Franco Españolas, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Rioja Bordón” 2011
($18, Vision Wine & Spirits): A more serious wine than their Crianza, Bodegas Franco Españolas’ Rioja Reserva is yet another example of how Spanish wines over-deliver. It’s more refined and polished, delivering more complexity compared to the Crianza. The Crianza’s vivacity is apparent here as well, which means you will not tire of it throughout a meal. … Read more
Bodegas Franco Españolas, Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) “Rioja Bordón” 2005
($25, Vision Wine & Spirits): Astounding to find beautifully matured wine at retail at this price. This Gran Reserva demonstrates the virtue of cellaring wine…only in this case, Bodegas Franco Españolas did the work and absorbed the expense involved in aging. … Read more
Bodegas Franco Españolas, Rioja Crianza (Spain) “Rioja Bordón” 2013
($13, Vision Wine & Spirits): The wines from Franco Españolas are just another example of the excellent bargains available from Spain. Take this Crianza for example. A blend of Tempranillo (80%) and Garnacha, it is a lively mixture of red fruit flavors, spice and herbs. … Read more
Bodegas Ochoa, Navarra (Spain) Reserva 2009
($22, Frontier Imports): Big and powerful, this blend of Tempranillo (55%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) and Merlot has a glossy texture. Even at seven years of age, a hint of seductive, almost sweet, oakiness remains. Its ripeness is felt in the finish as a touch of heat. … Read more
Pago de Larrainzar, Navarra (Spain) Reserva Especial 2009
($28): The international blend of Merlot (50%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) dwarfs the contribution of Tempranillo (15%) and Garnacha. With ripe flavors, a bit of sweet oak and a velvety texture, it’s a showy wine. Uplifting acidity keeps it lively and fresh, making it a good choice at a steakhouse.… Read more
Príncipe de Viana, Navarra (Spain) Tempranillo Reserva 2011
($17, Classical Wines of Spain): Navarra, a wine region in northern Spain, is best known for its Garnacha-based rosado. With its proximity to Rioja (indeed, a part of Rioja DOCa lies within the geographic area of Navarra) it is not surprising that Tempranillo, the major grape of its neighbor, does well too. … Read more
Kim Crawford, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Wild Grace” 2014
($26): Love the wine, hate the marketing. Kim Crawford’s Wild Grace Chardonnay is one of their wines in a category that they refer to as “small parcels.” In short, they cull the best grapes from their best vineyards to make a reserve-style wine. … Read more
Pieropan, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) 2015
($20): Pieropan, one of the leading producers in Soave, makes at least two stunning single-vineyard wines. I remember having a 2005 from their La Rocca vineyard last year that was simply stunning — fresh and mature at once. So, it’s no surprise to me that their “regular” Soave Classico is delectable. … Read more
Domaine J. Chamonard, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) “Le Clos de Lys” 2014
($32, Savio Soares Selections): It’s hard to determine from the importer’s website whether Le Clos de Lys is actually a single vineyard or a proprietary name for a wine that comes from several parcels in Morgon. No matter, the wine is excellent and reinforces my opinion that the cru of Beaujolais will be the next hot area for French wine. … Read more
Ouled Thaleb, Morocco () “Ait Souala” 2012
($23, Nomadic Distribution): Named after Ait Souala, once the largest winemaking estate in Africa, this is a ripe blend of Arinarnoa (50%) and equal amounts of Tannat and Malbec. A big, muscular wine, which still has surprising freshness, it finishes smooth and round. … Read more
Ouled Thaleb, Morocco () “Signature” 2013
($23, Nomadic Distribution): You would be forgiven if you were unaware that Morocco produces wine — and good ones at that. After all, the Sahara Desert lies within the country and 99% of the population belongs to a religion that prohibits alcohol consumption. … Read more
Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (La Rochelle) 2014
($33, Wilson Daniels): Château du Moulin-à-Vent sits virtually adjacent to the iconic wind-mill that gives the name to the village that many consider the top cru of Beaujolais. They, along with other top producers in Moulin-à-Vent, are intent on highlighting the differences among the vineyards. … Read more
Frédéric Berne, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Corcelette 2014
($20): I only became acquainted with Frédéric Berne’s Beaujolais during my annual trip to Burgundy last November. Based on my tasting of his 2014s, I would try anything he makes. He, like many of the top producers in Beaujolais, is raising the bar in that region by identifying vineyards within the cru (the 10 towns that produce the most distinctive wines) that have unique terroir and are capable of making superior wines. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) Domaine des Hospices de Belleville 2015
($25, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Beaujolais is clearly a hot area. Major Beaune-based Burgundy négociants are investing there, either by buying properties, such as Jadot with Château des Jacques, or, as with Drouhin, collaborating with the Domaine des Hospices de Belleville to produce and market their wines. … Read more
Frédéric Berne, Chiroubles (Beaujolais, France) Les Terrasses 2015
($20): Wines from Chiroubles, another one of the ten cru of Beaujolais, are typically fruitier and less firm than those from Morgon. Berne’s 2015 Chiroubles from Les Terrasses, one of the top spots in that village, is exuberant without being over the top. … Read more
Carmel Road, Monterey (California) Pinot Noir 2014
($25): A delightful, well-priced Pinot Noir is hard to find, so I was especially pleased to sample this one. Light-bodied with intriguing herbal earthy flavors and mild tannins, it’s perfect for current consumption with a veal chop or roast chicken with mushrooms. … Read more
Carmel Road, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir Panorama Vineyard 2013
($35): A bigger and riper version of their delightful — and easy to recommend — straight Monterey Pinot Noir, Carmel Road’s Panorama Vineyard bottling focuses more on the sweet fruity aspect of the grape. In the process, they lose delicacy and complexity than Pinot Noir offers. … Read more
Quinta do Noval, Oporto (Portugal) 10 Year-Old Tawny Porto NV
($31): Along with winter, at least as measured by the calendar, comes the Port season. A high-quality 10-year-old Tawny, such as this one from Noval, is a perfect way to start the season and end a meal. Tawnies are unfussy: Open the bottle, pour and enjoy, then re-cork and repeat the next day. … Read more
Cantina Lunae Bosoni, Rivera Liguria di Ponente DOC (Liguria, Italy) Pigato 2015
($24, Montcalm Wine Imports): Though Pigato is the same as the Vermentino grape, according to DNA analysis, it has a different flavor profile when transformed into wine, presumably because of where it’s planted. Indeed, Lunae’s 2015 Pigato, though equally enjoyable as their Vermentino, is different. … Read more
Cantina Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Lunae DOC (Liguria, Italy) “Niccolò V” 2010
($30, Montcalm Wine Imports): I don’t know enough about all the producers in Liguria to say that Lunae Bosoni is “the best.” But what I can say, after tasting their wines for several years now at Montcalm’s annual portfolio tasting, is that they are a superb producer. … Read more
Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling St. Andrews Vineyard 2014
($20): It could be the screw cap closure, but whatever, this wine benefits enormously from 15 minutes of aeration before consumption. Then it sings. Dry and cutting, it has the enamel-cleansing quality of first-rate Riesling. A firm racy edge makes it better with food, such as spiced Asian or Indian fare, as opposed to a stand along aperitif.… Read more
Stony Hill Vineyard, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2011
($46): Though the current drumbeat in California is for restrained Chardonnay, it was Stony Hill, decades ago, in the 1950s, that basically invented the drum. They’ve always made restrained, yet flavorful, cutting Chardonnays, the kind you savor. The 2011, not their recent release, but still available at the retail level, shows how beautifully their wines develop. … Read more
Principe Corsini, Maremma (Tuscany, Italy) “Marsiliana” 2012
($30): I’m always skeptical of a Cabernet-based Super Tuscan wine, even from a top producer, such as Principe Corsini, because Cabernet can overwhelm Tuscan identity. No such problem with Marsiliana, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, despite being aged in new small French oak barrels. … Read more
J. Lohr, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) “Cuvée POM” 2013
($48): J. Lohr makes three Bordeaux-like Cuvées, “PAU,” “St. E” and “POM” inspired by the blend typical for those appellations, Pauillac, St. Estephe and Pomerol. The 2013 Cuvée POM is a successful blend of primarily Merlot (84%) filled out by Malbec (8%) and equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. … Read more
Cellars Uinó, Montsant (Catalonia, Spain) Garnacha “Perlat” 2014
($12, Monsieur Touton): Montsant is sometimes referred to as a “little brother” appellation to its more famous and expensive neighbor, Priorat. There’s nothing little brother about this wine. Waves of aromas pour from the glass predicting pleasure on the palate. It’s wonderfully dense, dark and ripe, yet does not go overboard and finishes with a subtle and paradoxical succulent bitterness. … Read more
Bodegas Virgen del Agulia-Paniza, Cariñena (Spain) Garnacha Vina Vejas de Paniza 2012
($14, Vinaio Imports): It’s curious — and perhaps confusing — that the primary grape of the Cariñena region is Garnacha and not Cariñena (a.k.a., Carignan in French and Carignano in Italian, and generally spelled “Carignane” in the U.S.A.). That said, there’s nothing confusing about this wine — it’s terrific. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) En Caradeux 2014
($35, Louis Latour USA): This is what everyone is looking for in white Burgundy — an affordable overachiever. Three elements come together in a “perfect storm” to create this overachiever. First, there’s the village itself. Pernand-Vergelesses lies “behind” the hill of Corton (to the west) and is often overlooked since it is hidden as you drive the main road of the Côte d’Or. … Read more
Domaine Parent, Corton Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2014
($190, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): White Corton is a rarity, since most producers label it Corton-Charlemagne. Indeed, Anne Parent, who runs the eponymous domaine with her sister, Catherine, says she legally could label hers as Corton-Charlemagne, but since it comes from the east-facing portion of the hill in the Ladoix-Serrigny commune, she prefers to label it simply…Corton. … Read more
Terrunyo, Cachapoal Valley (Chile) Carménère Peumo Vineyard Block 27 2002
($30, Banfi Vintners): This is an impressive Carménère released in Concha y Toro’s Terrunyo line. New World ripeness and suppleness are apparent, but the inherently earthy character of Carménère still shows, which makes for a succulent, layered wine. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2005… Read more
Krug Champagne Grande Cuvée Brut
Krug’s Grande Cuvée is like no other non-vintage Champagne, having more in common with other houses prestige bottlings, both in price and quality. Most Champagne aficionados know that Krug ferments all of its still wines in small oak casks, the only Champagne house to do so.… Read more
Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année Brut 1996
Bollinger produces a bold style of Champagne that combines power and elegance. The power in this well-aged—but at 20-years of age, still very much alive—Champagne comes from the blends that emphasizes Pinot Noir (about 2/3rds) with Chardonnay filling out the rest, and the primary fermentation that occurs in oak casks.… Read more
Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc, 2010
With about 17 acres, Maison Joseph Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s best négociants, owns roughly half of this premier cru vineyard, which is located at the southern end of Beaune, bordering Pommard. The vineyard takes its name from the honey-bees (mouches à miel, literally honey flies) that loved the warmth of the site.… Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune Grèves, “Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus,” 2009
Bouchard, one of Burgundy’s top producers, own this 10-acre plot, which is situated in the heart of Beaune Grèves, an 80-acre Premier Cru vineyard, which itself is one of the top Premier Cru vineyards in Beaune, a town that lacks Grand Cru vineyards.… Read more
Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Chablis Premier Cru, Le Vaillon, “Cuvée Guy Moreau,” 2014
The label predicts great things for this wine—Christian Moreau Père et Fils (not be confused with J. Moreau & Fils) is a top-notch producer and 2014 was a great year for Chablis—and the wine delivers them. Cuvée Guy Moreau comes from a 2.5-acre plot planted in an ideal portion of the vineyard by Guy Moreau in 1934.… Read more
Castello delle Regine, Umbria IGP (Italy) “Selezione del Fondatore” 2007
($45, Golden Ram Imports/Blue Sky Group): Castello delle Regine will be the producer to focus the light on Umbria as a source of grand wine. Their Selezione del Fondatore, which to my mind is their flagship wine, comes exclusively from 50+ year-old Sangiovese vines that the owners found on the property when they purchased it in the 1990s. … Read more
Sébastien Brunet, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “La Rocherie” Brut NV
($21, Savio Soares Selections): Though Vouvray is usually thought of as a fruity, zesty still white wine, plenty of sparkling wine comes from that appellation as well. The Chenin Blanc-based bubbly is dry and cutting, not exactly the profile you’d necessarily expect from that usually fruity grape. … Read more
Château des Quarts, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Clos des Quarts 2013
($70, Becky Wasserman Selection): Seventy bucks for Pouilly-Fuissé? That’ll get your attention, but so will the quality of this wine. It’s a joint venture between two Burgundy super-stars, Dominique Lafon from Meursault and Olivier Merlin from the Mâconnais, who purchased the vineyard together. … Read more
Olivier Merlin, Macon Blanc (Burgundy, France) La Roche Vineuse 2013
($21, Becky Wasserman Selection): I first became aware of Domaine Merlin’s wine when I tasted — no, drank — his stunning Moulin-à-Vent in a Paris bistro. I’ve been a fan ever since. It turns out that the Domaine makes stunning white wine as well. … Read more
Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roy 2014
($49, Becky Wasserman Selection): The producers in Marsannay have petitioned the authorities to elevate some of their vineyards, all of which now are lumped together and sold under the village name, to Premier Cru. Clos du Roy is a prime candidate for promotion as this wine demonstrates. … Read more
Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) La Chapître 2012
($57, Becky Wasserman Selection): Sylvain Pataille, a terrific producer based in Marsannay, produces this Bourgogne rouge from vines that average about 35 years of age. Indeed, a third of the vines in this 2.5-acre vineyard date from 1950s. The old vines explain the gorgeous complexity and density you rarely fine in Bourgogne Rouge. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Saint Bris (Burgundy, France) 2014
($12, Louis Latour USA): Though the appellation is just Saint Bris, the wines are often referred to as Sauvignon St. Bris, incorporating the name of the grape into the appellation. Saint Bris, located just southwest of Chablis, is an anomaly in Burgundy because it is the only area where Sauvignon Blanc is allowed, indeed, required. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2014
($135, Louis Latour USA): Louis Latour, the largest owner of the Grand Cru Corton Charlemagne, consistently makes superb examples of that wine. They show their glory with a decade of bottle age. I’ve not tasted all producers’ Corton Charlemagne so I can’t say Latour is “the best,” but for the price, there’s nobody even close. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014
($20, Louis Latour USA): The 2014 vintage was superb in Chablis and the rest of Burgundy for white wines. Prices have nowhere to go but up because of the short crop in 2016, so I advise friends to buy as many 2014 white Burgundies as they can afford. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2014
($21, Louis Latour USA): With the prices of Burgundy going through the roof, it’s always a delight to find authentic red Burgundy, especially from the revered Côte de Nuits, that is affordable. Marsannay, the most northern appellation of the Côte de Nuits, is practically a suburb of Dijon, resulting in a constant battle between vineyards and suburban housing. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2012
($55, Louis Latour USA): Village Burgundians, those wines made from vineyards that are not classified as Premier or Grand Cru, are often overlooked. Burgundy collectors typically scramble to buy the wines from those more revered appellations. Wise consumers, however, should look for village wines from top growers or négociants, such as this one. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Eola-Amity Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Chardonnay Roserock Vineyard 2014
($35): Though Drouhin’s Roserock vineyard, their new one in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, is focused on Pinot Noir, eleven of the 111 planted acres are devoted to Chardonnay. Laurent Drouhin notes the vineyard is at a higher elevation compared to theirs in the Dundee Hills and describes the soil as pebbly. … Read more