($14, Vinaio Imports): It’s curious — and perhaps confusing — that the primary grape of the Cariñena region is Garnacha and not Cariñena (a.k.a., Carignan in French and Carignano in Italian, and generally spelled “Carignane” in the U.S.A.). That said, there’s nothing confusing about this wine — it’s terrific. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Domaine Louis Latour, Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) En Caradeux 2014
($35, Louis Latour USA): This is what everyone is looking for in white Burgundy — an affordable overachiever. Three elements come together in a “perfect storm” to create this overachiever. First, there’s the village itself. Pernand-Vergelesses lies “behind” the hill of Corton (to the west) and is often overlooked since it is hidden as you drive the main road of the Côte d’Or. … Read more
Domaine Parent, Corton Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2014
($190, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): White Corton is a rarity, since most producers label it Corton-Charlemagne. Indeed, Anne Parent, who runs the eponymous domaine with her sister, Catherine, says she legally could label hers as Corton-Charlemagne, but since it comes from the east-facing portion of the hill in the Ladoix-Serrigny commune, she prefers to label it simply…Corton. … Read more
Terrunyo, Cachapoal Valley (Chile) Carménère Peumo Vineyard Block 27 2002
($30, Banfi Vintners): This is an impressive Carménère released in Concha y Toro’s Terrunyo line. New World ripeness and suppleness are apparent, but the inherently earthy character of Carménère still shows, which makes for a succulent, layered wine. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2005… Read more
Krug Champagne Grande Cuvée Brut
Krug’s Grande Cuvée is like no other non-vintage Champagne, having more in common with other houses prestige bottlings, both in price and quality. Most Champagne aficionados know that Krug ferments all of its still wines in small oak casks, the only Champagne house to do so.… Read more
Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année Brut 1996
Bollinger produces a bold style of Champagne that combines power and elegance. The power in this well-aged—but at 20-years of age, still very much alive—Champagne comes from the blends that emphasizes Pinot Noir (about 2/3rds) with Chardonnay filling out the rest, and the primary fermentation that occurs in oak casks.… Read more
Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc, 2010
With about 17 acres, Maison Joseph Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s best négociants, owns roughly half of this premier cru vineyard, which is located at the southern end of Beaune, bordering Pommard. The vineyard takes its name from the honey-bees (mouches à miel, literally honey flies) that loved the warmth of the site.… Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune Grèves, “Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus,” 2009
Bouchard, one of Burgundy’s top producers, own this 10-acre plot, which is situated in the heart of Beaune Grèves, an 80-acre Premier Cru vineyard, which itself is one of the top Premier Cru vineyards in Beaune, a town that lacks Grand Cru vineyards.… Read more
Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Chablis Premier Cru, Le Vaillon, “Cuvée Guy Moreau,” 2014
The label predicts great things for this wine—Christian Moreau Père et Fils (not be confused with J. Moreau & Fils) is a top-notch producer and 2014 was a great year for Chablis—and the wine delivers them. Cuvée Guy Moreau comes from a 2.5-acre plot planted in an ideal portion of the vineyard by Guy Moreau in 1934.… Read more
Castello delle Regine, Umbria IGP (Italy) “Selezione del Fondatore” 2007
($45, Golden Ram Imports/Blue Sky Group): Castello delle Regine will be the producer to focus the light on Umbria as a source of grand wine. Their Selezione del Fondatore, which to my mind is their flagship wine, comes exclusively from 50+ year-old Sangiovese vines that the owners found on the property when they purchased it in the 1990s. … Read more
Sébastien Brunet, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “La Rocherie” Brut NV
($21, Savio Soares Selections): Though Vouvray is usually thought of as a fruity, zesty still white wine, plenty of sparkling wine comes from that appellation as well. The Chenin Blanc-based bubbly is dry and cutting, not exactly the profile you’d necessarily expect from that usually fruity grape. … Read more
Château des Quarts, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Clos des Quarts 2013
($70, Becky Wasserman Selection): Seventy bucks for Pouilly-Fuissé? That’ll get your attention, but so will the quality of this wine. It’s a joint venture between two Burgundy super-stars, Dominique Lafon from Meursault and Olivier Merlin from the Mâconnais, who purchased the vineyard together. … Read more
Olivier Merlin, Macon Blanc (Burgundy, France) La Roche Vineuse 2013
($21, Becky Wasserman Selection): I first became aware of Domaine Merlin’s wine when I tasted — no, drank — his stunning Moulin-à-Vent in a Paris bistro. I’ve been a fan ever since. It turns out that the Domaine makes stunning white wine as well. … Read more
Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roy 2014
($49, Becky Wasserman Selection): The producers in Marsannay have petitioned the authorities to elevate some of their vineyards, all of which now are lumped together and sold under the village name, to Premier Cru. Clos du Roy is a prime candidate for promotion as this wine demonstrates. … Read more
Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) La Chapître 2012
($57, Becky Wasserman Selection): Sylvain Pataille, a terrific producer based in Marsannay, produces this Bourgogne rouge from vines that average about 35 years of age. Indeed, a third of the vines in this 2.5-acre vineyard date from 1950s. The old vines explain the gorgeous complexity and density you rarely fine in Bourgogne Rouge. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Saint Bris (Burgundy, France) 2014
($12, Louis Latour USA): Though the appellation is just Saint Bris, the wines are often referred to as Sauvignon St. Bris, incorporating the name of the grape into the appellation. Saint Bris, located just southwest of Chablis, is an anomaly in Burgundy because it is the only area where Sauvignon Blanc is allowed, indeed, required. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2014
($135, Louis Latour USA): Louis Latour, the largest owner of the Grand Cru Corton Charlemagne, consistently makes superb examples of that wine. They show their glory with a decade of bottle age. I’ve not tasted all producers’ Corton Charlemagne so I can’t say Latour is “the best,” but for the price, there’s nobody even close. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014
($20, Louis Latour USA): The 2014 vintage was superb in Chablis and the rest of Burgundy for white wines. Prices have nowhere to go but up because of the short crop in 2016, so I advise friends to buy as many 2014 white Burgundies as they can afford. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2014
($21, Louis Latour USA): With the prices of Burgundy going through the roof, it’s always a delight to find authentic red Burgundy, especially from the revered Côte de Nuits, that is affordable. Marsannay, the most northern appellation of the Côte de Nuits, is practically a suburb of Dijon, resulting in a constant battle between vineyards and suburban housing. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2012
($55, Louis Latour USA): Village Burgundians, those wines made from vineyards that are not classified as Premier or Grand Cru, are often overlooked. Burgundy collectors typically scramble to buy the wines from those more revered appellations. Wise consumers, however, should look for village wines from top growers or négociants, such as this one. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Eola-Amity Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Chardonnay Roserock Vineyard 2014
($35): Though Drouhin’s Roserock vineyard, their new one in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, is focused on Pinot Noir, eleven of the 111 planted acres are devoted to Chardonnay. Laurent Drouhin notes the vineyard is at a higher elevation compared to theirs in the Dundee Hills and describes the soil as pebbly. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Eola-Amity Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Roserock Vineyard 2014
($35): Maison Drouhin, the superb Burgundy-based négociant, was the first French firm to invest in Oregon when they purchased vineyards in the Dundee AVA of the Willamette Valley 20+ years ago. Over the subsequent two decades, they’ve produced a very impressive array of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from their Dundee vineyards. … Read more
Presqu’ile Vineyards, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Syrah 2013
($35): The team at Presqu’ile clearly knows what they are doing. First, I tasted — and loved — their Chardonnay, reinforcing the idea that Santa Maria Valley is a good locale for that grape. Then I tasted — and loved — their Sauvignon Blanc, so I figured they were talented white wine producers. … Read more
Louis Martini, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($38): Louis Martini is one of the great names — a true icon — of California wine. Their wines continue to enhance the Martini reputation even after the winery was acquired by Gallo, a company that had the good sense to maintain the winery’s integrity and not turn it into brand. … Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2013
($54): There’s Merlot…and then there’s the real Merlot. Put this 2013 Duckhorn Merlot in the latter category. This should not be surprising. After all, it was Duckhorn with their Three Palms Merlot that showed the heights that this varietal could achieve in Napa. … Read more
Louis Martini, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($34): Though distinctly different from Martini’s Napa Valley bottling, it is equally appealing, perhaps because it is so different. This Cabernet is more floral and “pretty,” less mineraly and lacking the black olive note of its neighbor from Napa. It still manages to combine a mouth-watering savory component to mixture of fruit notes. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Lunae DOC (Liguria/Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2015
($31, Montcalm Wine Imports): I raved about the 2014 vintage of this wine, Lunae Bosoni’s flagship white made entirely from Vermentino. The 2015 is similarly stunning. Possibly the richest Vermentino I’ve ever had, it still retains lightness and vivacity with an invigorating zippy finish. … Read more
Mas des Bressades, Costières de Nîmes (Rhône Valley, France) “Cuvée Tradition” 2015
($15, Robert Kacher Selections): Costières de Nîmes, one of the lesser-known subregions of the greater Rhône Valley, lies on the right (western) bank of the river. Wines from here lack the popularity — and price — of the more upscale subregions, such as Vacqueyras or Cairanne. … Read more
Lucien Crochet, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Le Chêne” 2014
($30, Neal Rosenthal): This is the real deal. Sancerre has become so popular that some producers over crop to keep up with demand. As a result, many of the wines carrying that appellation are uninteresting, tasting like a Sauvignon from, well, anywhere. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Ursules “Domaine Héritiers Louis Jadot” 2013
($90, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, is also a “grower,” owning vineyards under a variety of Domaine names, such as Domaine Héritiers Louis Jadot (i.e., the heirs of Louis Jadot), throughout the Côte d’Or. … Read more
Presqu’Ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir 2014
($42): Presqu’ile seemingly does everything right. Take this Pinot Noir, for example–a lacey combination of red fruit flavors and spice. It’s not overdone in a “Pinot Syrah” style, but rather captures the subtleties of the variety as it dances across the palate.… Read more
Presqu’Ile, San Luis Obispo County (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Steiner Creek Vineyard 2014
($48): Presqu’ile buys grapes from the Phelan family who owns the Steiner Creek Vineyard, showing, once again, that consumers should not automatically shun wines that are not “estate.” This Pinot Noir is a notch–or two–above their very good Santa Maria bottling with more engaging aromatics and greater depth. … Read more
Spottswoode, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 2013
($186): Stunning is a word that leaps to mind after tasting this wine. Weighing in at less than 14 percent stated-alcohol, it dazzles with its elegance, harmony and length, not shear power. Though it has plenty of that, too. Paradoxically, almost, its power is restrained and not flamboyant. … Read more
Cerulli Spinozzi, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Colline Teramane DOCG (Abruzzo, Italy) “Torre Migliori” 2011
($20, Cru Artisan): The wines from Colline Teramane, Abruzzo’s only DOCG, fly under the radar for some inexplicable reason, which makes them a bargain for consumers. Since they’re rarely seen on wine lists, even in the trendiest wine bars, it remains for savvy consumers to try them on their own, at home. … Read more
Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Caillerets 2014
($102, Esprit du Vin): Les Caillerets, one of the grandest premier cru vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet, lies further south and further up the slope from Les Blanchots. Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay’s 2014, a bit closed at this stage, is tightly wound and racy, showing a dramatic stony minerality in contrast to the chalkiness from Les Blanchots Dessus. … Read more
Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Blanchots Dessus 2014
($104, Esprit du Vin): Les Blanchots Dessus (upper Blanchots; note the slight difference in spelling and, at least according to the French, but not this Anglophone, an enormous difference in pronunciation) comprises the upper part of the Blanchots vineyard and lies immediately to the south and adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyard, Le Montrachet. … Read more
Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2014
($64, Esprit du Vin): The Domaine Coffinet, established in 1860 in Chassagne-Montrachet, has been passed from one generation of the Coffinet family to the next. In 1989, Fernand and Cécile Coffinet split their 30-acre domaine between their two daughters, giving rise to Domaine Coffinet-Duverney, now run by Laura Coffinet and Philippe Duvernay.… Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Patzimaro Vineyard 2012
($95): Duckhorn Vineyards, which was the first to show us the potential of Merlot from Napa with their Three Palms bottling of it, now shows us the diversity of sites in Napa Valley with a series of single vineyard bottlings. Patzimaro Vineyard, located at the base of Spring Mountain in the St.… Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Howell Mountain (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($95): The expected power befitting a “mountain wine” is front and center. But the surprise is its incredible elegance for its size and weight. Alluring mineral-y earthy flavors balance the dark black fruit notes in this very polished wine. Succulent and long, it’s paradoxically powerful, yet subtle — quite an amazing combination. … Read more
Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Spain) Albarino 2015
($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Lovely wine, dreadful label. I rarely comment about a wine’s label. After all, it’s what’s in the bottle that counts. And in that category, this wine is easy to recommend. The problem is that the script on the label makes it almost impossible to figure out the name of the producer, so buying it is likely to be difficult. … Read more
Sartori di Verona, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (Veneto, Italy) Corte Brá 2007
($50, Cru Artisan): Sartori, a top producer based in the Veneto, bottles several Amarone. This one, Corte Brá, comes from a single vineyard and is, in my experience, always outstanding. The 2007 is particularly noteworthy because it is still widely available in the retail market and now, at a decade of age, is luscious and captivating. … Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso (Umbria, Italy) 2013
($20): Arnaldo-Caprai, certainly one of the top producers in Montefalco, has done an excellent job with this Montefalco Rosso, the baby brother of Sagrantino di Montefalco, which as DOCG status. Similar to other Rosso, such as Rosso di Montalcino, the Montefalco Rosso category gives the consumer an idea of what the Sagrantino di Montefalco, a wine that demands extended bottle aging to tame the tannins, might taste like since it is far more approachable at a young age. … Read more
Coppo, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) “Camp du Rouss” 2012
($21, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Barbera is a grape made for the cool and yes, wintery, weather ahead of us. And this one from Coppo is easy to recommend. It’s a pleasantly gutsy wine with briary fruit, good grip and uplifting acidity. … Read more
Pighin, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2015
($18, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Buying Pinot Grigio, one of America’s most popular white wines, is like walking through a mind field. With so many vapid examples on retailers’ shelves, it’s hard for a consumer to know how to choose. Well, you can start with this one by Pighin. … Read more
Pighin, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2015
($25, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Pighin’s Pinot Grigio, made from grapes grown in the Collio region of Friuli, is even more impressive that there Grave bottling. It has more of everything — concentration and finesse — without becoming overblown or blowsy. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Chouacheux Domaine Gagey 2013
($57, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): The 2013 vintage in Burgundy was difficult because rain during the harvest had the potential to swell the grapes, diluting them and the wine. Plus, dampness during harvest is a set up for rot. But talented producer, such as Louis Jadot, makes excellent wines even in “difficult” years. … Read more
Alamos, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2015
($13): Malbec has achieved popularity in this country because it can produce a big juicy red wine with mild or little tannic structure. The 2015 Malbec from Alamos fits that profile perfectly. Soft and fruity, it’s ideal for people searching for an inexpensive big red to have either before dinner or with hearty fare.… Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($40): This lovely young Cabernet Sauvignon delivers a balanced, palate-pleasing combination of dark fruit, herbs and other savory notes. Its suave tannins make this wine quite approachable and enjoyable now. A pleasant contrast to big, overblown Cabernets, Cadaretta’s emphasizes elegance over power.… Read more
La Crema, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2014
($25): La Crema’s Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir emphasizes the red cherry fruit nature of the variety. To their credit, the fruit flavors are fresh, not jammy, and not overdone. A whiff of savory notes appears in the background. Appealing tart cherry notes are apparent in the finish in keeping with the wine’s fruity profile. … Read more
Castello di Volpaia, Maremma DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Prelius” 2014
($14, Wilson Daniels): If you thought Castello di Volpaia was a great producer of Chianti Classico, you would be correct. But they also produce this bargain-priced Vermentino that shouldn’t be missed. Beautifully fresh, saline tinged, with uplifting acidity, it’s hard to find a better match for steamed clams or other simply prepared seafood. … Read more