Category Archives: Reviews

Château des Jacques, Morgon (Burgundy, France) 2015

($28, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Anyone who doubts that Beaujolais can excite needs to taste Château des Jacques’ 2015 trio of Morgon, Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent, three of the 10 Beaujolais crus.  The crus are 10 villages in the northern part of the region whose bedrock is either pink granite or a blue-black volcanic stone and whose wines are so distinctive that only the name of the village, not Beaujolais, appears on the label. Read more

J. Lohr, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay “Arroyo Vista” 2015

($25): J. Lohr was one of, if not the first, to embrace Arroyo Secco appellation of Monterey County when he planted vines there in 1972.  His experience has allowed him to differentiate vineyards within the appellation.  This Chardonnay from Arroyo Vista vineyard is clearly different from the one labeled October Night — it’s not just a marketing gimmick. Read more

Vignamaggio, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) Terre di Prenzano 2015

($22, Montcalm Wine Imports): This is quintessential Chianti Classico — remember Chianti Classico is one of the prized subzones of the Chianti region — with bright fruitiness, a touch of herbal flavors and lip-smacking acidity that compels another sip.  The richness of the 2015 vintage is apparent, but the team at Vignamggio avoids jamminess or overripe character. Read more

Dry Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Estate Block 10 2015

($32): This wine represents a dilemma for wine critics.  It’s not a style of Chardonnay that I like personally, but it is well made and will appeal to a broad range of consumers, especially those who prefer bold Chardonnay.  The wine making team used the usual techniques for amping-up the profile:  Ripe grapes translating to a 14.5 percent-stated alcohol, fermentation and aging in the barrel, and malolactic fermentation (which converts harsher malic acid to a creamier lactic acid). Read more

Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG (Abruzzo, Italy) “Zanna” 2011

($38, Montcalm Wine Imports): The somewhat unwieldy name of Abruzzo’s sole DOCG and the reputation of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo for producing only inexpensive wine might put some consumers off from ordering this one.  That would be a mistake.   The Colline Teramane area within Abruzzo is uniquely well suited for the Montepulciano grape because its exposure to the sea and the elevation of the vineyards act as cooling influences, which allows the grapes to maintain their acidity thus instilling liveliness to the wines. Read more

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2014

($28, Louis Latour USA): Chablis remains, in my mind, the most undervalued area for top white wine.  And for those looking for “unoaked Chardonnay,” it is that style’s birthplace.  Maison Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, acquired Simonnet-Febrve, a house established in 1840, in 2003 and a year later installed Jean-Philippe Archambaud as managing director. Read more

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Mont de Milieu 2014

($30, Louis Latour USA): Simonnet-Febvre owns a piece of the Mont de Milieu vineyard, which may explain why it is always one of their top wines.  Mont de Milieu (literally, the mountain in the middle), located on the right bank of Serein River near the strip of Grand Cru vineyards, takes its name from its location in the middle, separating the dukedoms of Burgundy and Champagne of the past. Read more

Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2014

($58): Olivier Bernard, owner of Domaine de Chevalier, believes that the wines from Pessac-Léognan should be “feminine, not a powerhouse.”  In keeping with his philosophy, Domaine de Chevalier red is never a block-busting powerhouse.  But it’s always a majestic wine.  The 2014, while less concentrated and less dense than others from Pessac-Léognan, is exciting to taste. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2014

($66): Merry Edwards’ Klopp Ranch bottling highlights bright red fruit flavors with less emphasis on the savory component.  A succulent wine, it is balanced and pure with an alluring suppleness.  It strikes a gorgeous mid ground in terms of intensity.  I’m not sure that anyone, even Edwards herself, can explain precisely what it is about the vineyards that results in the different expressions of her wines. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2014

($60): The Flax Vineyard bottling bombards the palette — in a very nice way — with lovely aromatics and juicy dark red fruit.  It speaks directly to you.  Savory elements appear, almost reluctantly, but then persist through a long finish.  Similar to her other Pinot Noirs, the tannins are suave giving the wine a velvety texture.Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015

($34): Few people get excited about Sauvignon Blanc as they do about other varietal wines.  For those skeptics, it’s time to taste Merry Edwards’ version.  This is an exciting wine that defies easy categorization.  There’s the bite of Sauvignon Blanc, to be sure, but there’s a creaminess and suaveness that suggests a Bordeaux-like blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Read more

Drappier, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV

($55): Drappier, a small family-run house, has been making Champagne since the early 19th century.  They are one of the few houses that make a rosé Champagne entirely from Pinot Noir by the saignée method.  That is, they press the Pinot Noir grapes, let the juice and skins remain in contact for a few days, just enough time to extract a touch of color, and then perform the secondary fermentation on the resulting pink-colored wine. Read more