Category Archives: Reviews

La Rioja Alta, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Viña Ardanza” 2008

($32): Where else but Spain, and specifically Rioja, do you find a nine year old wine as the current release?  And look at the price.  Not to mention that La Rioja Alta is one of the best producers in Rioja. Here’s a chance for consumers to taste the magical transformation of youthful fruitiness in a wine to intriguing and hard to define non-fruit flavors of leather and earth.Read more

Koenig Vineyards, Snake River Valley (Idaho) Late Harvest Riesling , Botrytis — Single Berry Select 2014

($30): First, a little geography for those, like myself, who are unfamiliar with Idaho viticulture.  Koenig Vineyards, founded in 1995 by Greg Koenig and his family, is located just west of Boise in central Idaho near the Oregon border.  Their website informs us that they are in the Sunny Slope District of the Snake River Valley. Read more

Cambria Estate, Santa Maria Valley (California) Chardonnay “Clone 4” 2015

($30): Santa Maria Valley, though located in Southern California, actually has some very cool areas because the valley runs East-West instead of the more usual North-South orientation.  As such, it draws cool air from the Pacific Ocean.  Indeed, growers determine what to plant where by assessing how much heat is needed to ripen a particular variety — Chardonnay and Pinot Noir favor western sites while Cabernet Sauvignon needs the heat of more inland — eastern — plots. Read more

Fattoria Viticcio, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Greppico” 2015

($12): Fattoria Viticcio is best known for their lovely Chianti Classico and their Super Tuscan, Greppicaia, from Bolgheri.  Add this satisfying Vermentino to the list. Fresh and lively, there’s a mouth-watering salinity to it that screams for this summer’s seafood.  It has surprising — for Vermentino — density and alluring hint of bitterness in the finish.Read more

Bricco dei Guazzi, Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Gavi di Gavi 2015

($14, Montcalm Wine Importers): Although consumers mostly identify Piedmont with its noble red wines, such as Barolo and Barbaresco, the region produces a superb array of whites, such as Gavi, which are opened with far less of a drum roll.  For the Gavi di Gavi designation, all of the grapes must come exclusively from the town of Gavi, one of the 14 communes — and certainly one of the two or three best — that comprise the DOCG zone.Read more

Medici Ermete, Reggiano Lambrusco DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “i Quercioli” NV

($12, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):   Lambrusco is making a dramatic comeback, judging from restaurants in New York City and elsewhere.  Diligence and persistence by producers such as Medici Ermete has shown the world the joys of Lambrusco.  An equal blend of Lambrusco Marani and Lambrusco Salamino, i Quercioli is a faintly fizzy, dark, almost purple, red wine with a delicate sweetness and gripping acidity. Read more

Gulfi, Sicilia Rosso IGT (Sicily, Italy) “Nero Bufaleffj” 2011

($45):  Gulfi, the first estate in Sicily to give focus on site specificity to Nero d’Avola, continues to making stunning examples of wine from that grape.  This one, from their Bufaleffj vineyard, is eye-opening for its balance and complexity, delivering a ying/yang of black fruit and savory flavors offset perfectly by a hint of bitterness in the finish. Read more

Cantina Mascarello Bartolo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2012

($140, The Rare Wine Company):  Although single vineyard bottlings are all the rage in Barolo and elsewhere, Maria Teresa Mascarello continues her father’s time-honored philosophy that Barolo is best when it’s a blend of vineyards.  Mascarello’s Barolo is a blend of grapes from four vineyards they own, three in the village of Barolo itself, Rué, Cannubi, St.Read more

Nickel & Nickel, Yountville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon State Ranch 2014

($110): Distinctly different from Nickel & Nickel’s other single vineyard Cabernet bottlings, the one from State Ranch appears far more youthful at this stage with its tannic structure showing immediately.  It has similar black fruit mixed with nuances of black olives and other savory notes, finishing with a beautiful bit of bitterness in the finish. Read more

MacRostie Winery and Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Wildcat Mountain” 2014

($56): The Sonoma Coast is the latest “hot” — more accurate to say, cool — place for Pinot Noir because of the dramatically cooler climate that its proximity to the Pacific Ocean offers.  Less bold than many, MacRostie’s Wildcat Mountain Pinot Noir still delivers ripe red fruit-like flavors accented with spice. Read more

Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon John C. Sullenger Vineyard 2014

($110): Nickel & Nickel and Far Niente overlap in ownership and philosophy, so it’s not surprising that they overlap in making spectacular wines.  Nickel & Nickel focuses on making distinctive Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines from different vineyards in Napa Valley.  Although their entire line-up is excellent, what is really impressive is how different the wines are despite similar wine making. Read more

Far Niente, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

($160): In a word, gorgeous.  Ok, two words: Gorgeous and stunning.  Sure it’s powerful.  But for all its power, it has amazing elegance and gracefulness, which is why it’s so stunning and gorgeous.  It has everything you’d want in Napa Valley Cabernet — dark fruit flavors, a hint of savory notes, plush tannins and a seemingly never ending finish. Read more

Finca San Blas, Utiel-Requena DO (Valencia, Spain) “Lomalta” 2014

($14): The Denominación de Origen (DO) of Utiel-Requena in eastern Spain has traditionally been known for bulk wine from the prolific Bobal grape.  Slowly, producers are changing the image.  This robust red, a blend of Merlot, Bobal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo and Syrah, has remarkably mild tannins, which makes it a good choice for hearty fare, even barbeque. Read more

Cobb Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Emmaline Ann Vineyard 2014

($75): Ross Cobb has as much experience with Sonoma Coast vineyards as anybody, having worked at Williams Selyem, Flowers, and Hirsch, all notable Sonoma Coast producers.  Ross, like Jadot’s legendary winemaker, Jacques Lardière who is currently making Jadot’s Oregon Pinot Noir, favors picking that grape earlier in the New World’s warmer vineyards (at least compared to Burgundy) to preserve secondary aromas and flavors that are essential to the character of the wine. Read more

Cobb Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard 1906 Block Pommard 2014

($80): Cobb’s Coastlands Vineyard, “1906 Block Pommard” Pinot Noir is the “heavyweight” of this trio despite being the lowest in alcohol (12.5 percent), reminding us, yet again, that sometimes less is more with regard to ripeness, especially with this variety.  The juicy Coastlands Vineyard displays more black fruit compared to the red fruit character of the Rice Spivak bottling. Read more

Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir 2015

($42): If you see a wine from Presqu’ile (pronounced “press-keel”) on a wine list or in your retailer’s shop, buy it.  You’ll likely be very happy.  Take this Pinot Noir, for example.  The Santa Maria Valley is a superb locale for the so-called “cool climate” grapes, such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay because the valley runs East-West. Read more

Prà, Soave (Veneto, Italy) “Otto” 2016

($18): Prà, one of Soave’s top producers and one of those responsible for the region’s renaissance, makes several Soave.  Their top wine is from a single vineyard, Montegrande and is a blend of Garganega (70%) and Trebbiano di Soave.  This one, Otto, named after a border collie, is their basic Soave made entirely from Garganega and aged exclusively in stainless steel tanks. Read more