Category Archives: Reviews

Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Selvabianca” 2016

($20, Artisanal Cellars):  Despite being Italy’s first DOC, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (yes, you read that correctly) rarely receives the accolades it deserves, which is a boon for consumers because its low visibility keeps the prices down.  Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara is one of the region’s top producers, so their wines are a good place to start for consumers who want to know what Vernaccia di San Gimignano should taste like. Read more

Cà di Rajo, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Cuvée del Fondatore” Brut 2016

($17):  Prosecco has gained so much popularity worldwide that its name has replaced the word Champagne as the generic term for all sparkling wine. Sadly, much Prosecco is mass-produced and uninteresting.  Typically, the path to finding a more distinctive Prosecco takes the consumer to a difficult to pronounce DOCG, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. Read more

Quintarelli, Valpolicella Classico Superiore (Veneto, Italy) 2009

($85, Kermit Lynch):  Valpolicella originally was an inexpensive delightfully light red wine, not an “important” or prestigious one.  Over the last several decades, many producers have ramped it up by performing a “ripasso,” adding either dried grapes or the leftover must from another fermentation to the fresh pressed juice, which increased the alcohol content and the overall weight of the finished wine. Read more

Rocca delle Maciè, Morellino di Scansano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Campo Macione” 2015

($15, Palm Bay International):  Rocca delle Maciè consistently makes lovely Chianti Classico, so it’s no surprise that they succeed with the Sangiovese grape further south in Scansano.  Their Morellino di Scansano 2015 focuses more on ripe cherry-like fruit than earthiness, but a hint of savory notes and bright acidity keeps it in balance. Read more

Patrick Piuze, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Coteau de Fontanay” 2016

($29, David Bowler Wine):  Though another one of Piuze’s village Chablis comes from Fontanay, not far from Fyé, it has a very different signature, showing there are dramatic differences between the communes than make up the greater Chablis appellation.  Piuze’s 2016 Coteau de Fontanay has a touch more ripeness and roundness than his Terroir de Fyé, while maintaining an underlying and balancing vivacity and edginess. Read more

Patrick Piuze, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Terroir de Fyé” 2016

($29, David Bowler Wine):   There is a longstanding tradition of identifying vineyards when making Chablis Premier and Grand Cru.  Fewer producers do that with village wines, preferring to simply label the wine Chablis.  Piuze, who like many relatively new small négociants owns no vineyards, opting instead to buy grapes from local growers, is able to take an intermediate approach. Read more

Tenuta Sette Cieli, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Scipio” 2010

($92, Wilson Daniels): It’s not surprising to see more estates popping up in Bolgheri, the area of the Tuscan coast that’s home to super star such as, Sassicaia and Ornellaia.  Moreover, it stands to reason that there’s potential for other producers to find the correct microclimates for their interpretation of wines made from the Bordeaux varieties. Read more

Migration, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard 2014

($68): The orientation of the Santa Maria Valley is unusual in California because in runs East-West rather than the usual North-South.  As such, the vineyards there are exposed directly to the cooling influences of the Pacific Ocean.  That climatic difference explains the difference in character between Santa Maria-grown Pinot Noir and those from the Russian River Valley. Read more

La Rioja Alta, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Viña Ardanza” 2008

($32): Where else but Spain, and specifically Rioja, do you find a nine year old wine as the current release?  And look at the price.  Not to mention that La Rioja Alta is one of the best producers in Rioja. Here’s a chance for consumers to taste the magical transformation of youthful fruitiness in a wine to intriguing and hard to define non-fruit flavors of leather and earth.Read more

Koenig Vineyards, Snake River Valley (Idaho) Late Harvest Riesling , Botrytis — Single Berry Select 2014

($30): First, a little geography for those, like myself, who are unfamiliar with Idaho viticulture.  Koenig Vineyards, founded in 1995 by Greg Koenig and his family, is located just west of Boise in central Idaho near the Oregon border.  Their website informs us that they are in the Sunny Slope District of the Snake River Valley. Read more