($16, Vintus): Collectors and conoisseurs know of Guigla’s “La La’s”, as they are called — his tiny production, single vineyard wines from the Côte Rôtie, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque — that sell for hundreds of dollars upon release. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Kendall Jackson, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay Jackson Estate, Camelot Highlands 2015
($35): This is an easy wine to recommend for its creamy seductive texture. Some will complain it’s heavy or overdone, but those who like a rich Chardonnay with a hint of butter will embrace it. It does double duty as a stand-alone aperitif or to accompany a roast chicken with a creamy mushroom sauce.… Read more
La Rioja Alta, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Viña Ardanza” 2008
($32): Where else but Spain, and specifically Rioja, do you find a nine year old wine as the current release? And look at the price. Not to mention that La Rioja Alta is one of the best producers in Rioja. Here’s a chance for consumers to taste the magical transformation of youthful fruitiness in a wine to intriguing and hard to define non-fruit flavors of leather and earth.… Read more
Mount Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($14): Although the Marlborough region of New Zealand put Sauvignon Blanc on the map, other regions fashion distinctive and equally enjoyable versions. Take this one from North Canterbury, a region on New Zealand’s east coast in the mid-portion of the South Island. … Read more
Mount Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Chardonnay 2015
($14): The name of the winery aptly describes the wine: Beautiful. Crisp and lemony, it carries its 14.5 percent stated alcohol effortlessly. This stylish edgy Chardonnay has a green apple-like vivacity to support its mid-weight body. It works as a stand-alone aperitif or a fitting accompaniment to simply grilled fish.… Read more
Grignano, Chianti Rùfina (Tuscany, Italy) 2014
($18, Montcalm Wine Importers): Chianti Rùfina, the smallest of the eight subzones of Chianti, a vast area in the middle of Tuscany, accounts for only about three percent of the region’s production. By comparison, Chianti Classico, the best known of the subzones and the area located in the hills between Florence and Siena, produces ten times the amount of wine. … Read more
Ruffino, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Riserva Ducale” 2012
($25): Ruffino is one of the leading names in Chianti Classico, producing a range of traditionally styled wines at reasonable prices. Their top one, Riserva Ducale Oro (with a gold label), made only in the best vintages has an extraordinary ability to develop amazing complexity with bottle age.… Read more
Viticcio, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2014
($18): This is a masterful Chianti Classico that walks the line between the so-called “modern” and “traditional” styles. A hint of Merlot (2%) in the blend with Sangiovese (98%) adds fleshiness without being overt. The engaging herbal earthy notes still dominate. … Read more
Clos du Val, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay Estate 2015
($32): Balance. That’s why this wine is so enjoyable. And enjoyable, not just for a sip, but also throughout the meal. There’s the lush ripeness and power you’d expect from Napa Valley Chardonnay, but the cooling influences of the San Pablo Bay on the Carneros region brings out a lovely lemony counterpoint and vivacity.… Read more
Mount Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2015
($18): The winery’s name describes its 2015 Pinot Gris — beautiful. It delivers a hint of pear-like spice and textural sensation buttressed by an enlivening structure. It has real depth and length. Not a watery Pinot Grigio or a heavy Pinot Gris, it delivers freshness and body. … Read more
Vietti, Barbera d’Asti DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Tre Vigne” 2015
($17, Dalla Terra Direct): Spoiler alert. This wine is a fantastic bargain for current consumption, even in the summer. For starters, Vietti is one of the superstar producers in Piedmont. Their Barolos are legendary, with comparable pricing. Vietti’s Barberas are equally enjoyable, albeit in an entirely different manner. … Read more
Koenig Vineyards, Snake River Valley (Idaho) Late Harvest Riesling , Botrytis — Single Berry Select 2014
($30): First, a little geography for those, like myself, who are unfamiliar with Idaho viticulture. Koenig Vineyards, founded in 1995 by Greg Koenig and his family, is located just west of Boise in central Idaho near the Oregon border. Their website informs us that they are in the Sunny Slope District of the Snake River Valley. … Read more
Matanzas Creek Winery, Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay 2015
($26): Matanzas Creek has always been a star producer of Chardonnay. They continue their reputation with this one. They manage to deliver satisfying concentration without wandering into the “in your face” character. Restrained, but not silent, this Chardonnay speaks to you without shouting. … Read more
Cambria Estate, Santa Maria Valley (California) Chardonnay “Clone 4” 2015
($30): Santa Maria Valley, though located in Southern California, actually has some very cool areas because the valley runs East-West instead of the more usual North-South orientation. As such, it draws cool air from the Pacific Ocean. Indeed, growers determine what to plant where by assessing how much heat is needed to ripen a particular variety — Chardonnay and Pinot Noir favor western sites while Cabernet Sauvignon needs the heat of more inland — eastern — plots. … Read more
Whitehaven, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2015
($20): Whitehaven has fashioned a slightly more restrained style of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. It’s still clean and fresh, with an attractively pungent bite, but, thankfully, does not shake you with electrifying verve. In a word, they’ve achieved a lovely combination of fresh herbal notes and lime-like acidity. … Read more
Fattoria Viticcio, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Greppico” 2015
($12): Fattoria Viticcio is best known for their lovely Chianti Classico and their Super Tuscan, Greppicaia, from Bolgheri. Add this satisfying Vermentino to the list. Fresh and lively, there’s a mouth-watering salinity to it that screams for this summer’s seafood. It has surprising — for Vermentino — density and alluring hint of bitterness in the finish.… Read more
Bricco dei Guazzi, Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Gavi di Gavi 2015
($14, Montcalm Wine Importers): Although consumers mostly identify Piedmont with its noble red wines, such as Barolo and Barbaresco, the region produces a superb array of whites, such as Gavi, which are opened with far less of a drum roll. For the Gavi di Gavi designation, all of the grapes must come exclusively from the town of Gavi, one of the 14 communes — and certainly one of the two or three best — that comprise the DOCG zone.… Read more
Cantine Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria/Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Grigia” 2016
($25, Montcalm Wine Importers): I have extolled the virtues of Cantine Lunae Bosoni in the past, particularly their Vermentini. There’s no reason to stop now: Their 2016 “Etichetta Grigia” (or Gray Label) Vermentino is an exciting wine. (They also produce a more expensive one, Etichetta Nero, a.k.a.… Read more
Medici Ermete, Colli Scandiano e Canossa DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) Malvasia Vino Frizzante Secco “Daphne” 2016
($18, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This is labeled Vino Frizzante Secco, which means slightly bubbly and dry. But it’s not really dry. It is aromatic, reminiscent of Moscato, but with more weight. Great acidity keeps it fresh and lively, so it doesn’t come across as cloying despite the light sweetness. … Read more
Donnafugata, Passito di Pantelleria DOC (Italy) “Ben Ryè” 2015
($35): Baldo Palermo, a representative of Donnafugata, described the island of Pantelleria as, “A volcanic rock jutting from the sea,” where the major activity is “listening to the wind.” Hence it’s appropriate that this wine is called Ben Ryè, which means son of the wind. … Read more
Medici Ermete, Reggiano Lambrusco DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “i Quercioli” NV
($12, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Lambrusco is making a dramatic comeback, judging from restaurants in New York City and elsewhere. Diligence and persistence by producers such as Medici Ermete has shown the world the joys of Lambrusco. An equal blend of Lambrusco Marani and Lambrusco Salamino, i Quercioli is a faintly fizzy, dark, almost purple, red wine with a delicate sweetness and gripping acidity. … Read more
Medici Ermete, Reggiano Lambrusco DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “Concerto” 2016
($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Medici Ermete takes Lambrusco seriously, and it shows with the quality of their wines. This one, named Concerto, is the first single vineyard Lambrusco produced. It’s made entirely from Lambrusco Salamino grown on their Rampata estate. … Read more
Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Sarmassa 2012
($65, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Sarmassa is a well-regarded cru located in the village of Barolo itself, an area where the wines are allegedly more delicate, relatively speaking (this is Barolo, after all) compared to those from Serralunga d’Alba or Montforte d’Alba. … Read more
Arínzano, Pago del Arínzano (Spain) “Hacienda di Arínzano” 2011
($19, Stoli Group USA): The Vinos de Pago category sits at the pinnacle of Spain’s official wine hierarchy. A Pago is basically a single estate that has its on Denominacion Oregin. Arínzano was northern Spain’s first estate to be awarded Vinos de Pago status. … Read more
Nino Franco, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Vigneto della Riva di San Floriano 2016
($26): Prosecco has become ubiquitous, which, of course, has made it a marketing challenge for the top producers, such as Nino Franco. Why should a consumer pay $26 for Prosecco when plenty sell for less than half that? For this one, the answer is easy: It’s a far, far superior wine. … Read more
Gulfi, Sicilia Rosso IGT (Sicily, Italy) “Nero Bufaleffj” 2011
($45): Gulfi, the first estate in Sicily to give focus on site specificity to Nero d’Avola, continues to making stunning examples of wine from that grape. This one, from their Bufaleffj vineyard, is eye-opening for its balance and complexity, delivering a ying/yang of black fruit and savory flavors offset perfectly by a hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Cantina Mascarello Bartolo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2012
($140, The Rare Wine Company): Although single vineyard bottlings are all the rage in Barolo and elsewhere, Maria Teresa Mascarello continues her father’s time-honored philosophy that Barolo is best when it’s a blend of vineyards. Mascarello’s Barolo is a blend of grapes from four vineyards they own, three in the village of Barolo itself, Rué, Cannubi, St.… Read more
Tiberio, Colline Pescaresi IGP (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino 2016
($21, The Sorting Table): Pecorino, the wine, not the cheese, is currently “hot,” which is surprising considering it was practically extinct as a grape variety as recently as two decades ago. Now there are probably 60 producers on the bandwagon. Although I’ve not sampled them all, it’s hard to imagine finding one better than Tiberio’s. … Read more
Cadaretta, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Southwind Vineyard 2014
($75): This single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon — which does contain 5 percent each of Malbec and Petit Verdot — is considerably more powerful and youthful than Cadaretta’s “Springboard” bottling. At this stage, it’s quite closed with a combination of deep black fruit and mineral-like flavors peeking out. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “Springboard” 2014
($50): Cadaretta’s website describes Springboard as their “reserve-quality Bordeaux-varietal blend made from the top barrels of the vintage.” Despite the large proportion of heavy hitting Bordeaux varieties — Malbec and Petit Verdot comprise almost 1/5th of the blend — the wine does not hit you over the head. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Yountville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon State Ranch 2014
($110): Distinctly different from Nickel & Nickel’s other single vineyard Cabernet bottlings, the one from State Ranch appears far more youthful at this stage with its tannic structure showing immediately. It has similar black fruit mixed with nuances of black olives and other savory notes, finishing with a beautiful bit of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Decoy, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
($25): After extolling the virtues of a bevy of $100+ Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s time to return to earth. Ironically, under Duckhorn’s Decoy label, this wine is the real thing. It clearly demonstrates that you needn’t spend triple digits to find satisfying wine with real character. … Read more
MacRostie Winery and Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Wildcat Mountain” 2014
($56): The Sonoma Coast is the latest “hot” — more accurate to say, cool — place for Pinot Noir because of the dramatically cooler climate that its proximity to the Pacific Ocean offers. Less bold than many, MacRostie’s Wildcat Mountain Pinot Noir still delivers ripe red fruit-like flavors accented with spice. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Martin Stelling Vineyard 2014
($160): Nickel & Nickel’s Cabernet from the Martin Stelling vineyard is fascinatingly different from the one from the John C. Sullenger Vineyard. It conveys dark fruit with more minerals, bordering on a tarry element, rather than the floweriness of the Sullenger. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon John C. Sullenger Vineyard 2014
($110): Nickel & Nickel and Far Niente overlap in ownership and philosophy, so it’s not surprising that they overlap in making spectacular wines. Nickel & Nickel focuses on making distinctive Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines from different vineyards in Napa Valley. Although their entire line-up is excellent, what is really impressive is how different the wines are despite similar wine making. … Read more
Far Niente, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
($160): In a word, gorgeous. Ok, two words: Gorgeous and stunning. Sure it’s powerful. But for all its power, it has amazing elegance and gracefulness, which is why it’s so stunning and gorgeous. It has everything you’d want in Napa Valley Cabernet — dark fruit flavors, a hint of savory notes, plush tannins and a seemingly never ending finish. … Read more
Sequoia Grove, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($40): This wonderfully refined mineraly Cabernet Sauvignon is a pleasure to drink now. I’m certain it will gain complexity — though it has plenty now — and nuance with age, but the winemaking team at Sequoia Grove has polished the tannins so they provide necessary structure without a trace of astringency or roughness. … Read more
Finca San Blas, Utiel-Requena DO (Valencia, Spain) “Lomalta” 2014
($14): The Denominación de Origen (DO) of Utiel-Requena in eastern Spain has traditionally been known for bulk wine from the prolific Bobal grape. Slowly, producers are changing the image. This robust red, a blend of Merlot, Bobal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo and Syrah, has remarkably mild tannins, which makes it a good choice for hearty fare, even barbeque. … Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($26): Presqu’ile takes advantage of their location in the Santa Maria Valley, which is cooled by the influences of the Pacific Ocean, to focus on grapes that show their best in that kind of climate: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($35): As I said in my review of Presqu’ile’s Pinot Noir, you can’t go wrong with their wines. It’s worth repeating. The first sip of this Chardonnay awakens your palate with restrained richness balanced by an enlivening citrus character. With air, more flavors emerge, but it still retains its vibrating soul. … Read more
Patz & Hall, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Dutton Ranch 2014
($44): Dutton Ranch, which consists of 1,100 acres of vineyards spread over the Russian River Valley that are owned or leased by the Dutton family, is a famous name in California wine. Lots of top name California producers buy grapes from Dutton, including Patz & Hall who has hit the mark with this 2014 Chardonnay.… Read more
Patz & Hall, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard 2014
($55): Patz & Hall have long been known for making single vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir by contracting with top growers for grapes from those vineyards. This one, from the Hudson Vineyard, which is wholly within the Napa Valley portion of Carneros, has lush generosity without being over the top or heavy. … Read more
Laurel Glen Vineyards, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 2013
($75): Laurel Glen, a true pioneering producer in Sonoma County, currently flies under most everyone’s radar. Under Bettina Sichel’s leadership, that’s slowly changing. Planted in 1968 by Carmen Taylor, Chateau St. Jean purchased grapes for their famed Lauren Glen Cabernet in the 1970s. … Read more
Cobb Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Rice-Spivak Vineyard 2014
($75): Cobb’s Rice-Spivak Vineyard Pinot Noir (13.3 percent) is more floral and opulent compared to their Emmaline Ann bottling at this stage, but still impeccably balanced. Again, the flavors dance across the palate, leaving you wondering how such intensity can be so light. … Read more
Cobb Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Emmaline Ann Vineyard 2014
($75): Ross Cobb has as much experience with Sonoma Coast vineyards as anybody, having worked at Williams Selyem, Flowers, and Hirsch, all notable Sonoma Coast producers. Ross, like Jadot’s legendary winemaker, Jacques Lardière who is currently making Jadot’s Oregon Pinot Noir, favors picking that grape earlier in the New World’s warmer vineyards (at least compared to Burgundy) to preserve secondary aromas and flavors that are essential to the character of the wine. … Read more
Cobb Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard 1906 Block Pommard 2014
($80): Cobb’s Coastlands Vineyard, “1906 Block Pommard” Pinot Noir is the “heavyweight” of this trio despite being the lowest in alcohol (12.5 percent), reminding us, yet again, that sometimes less is more with regard to ripeness, especially with this variety. The juicy Coastlands Vineyard displays more black fruit compared to the red fruit character of the Rice Spivak bottling. … Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir 2015
($42): If you see a wine from Presqu’ile (pronounced “press-keel”) on a wine list or in your retailer’s shop, buy it. You’ll likely be very happy. Take this Pinot Noir, for example. The Santa Maria Valley is a superb locale for the so-called “cool climate” grapes, such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay because the valley runs East-West. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
($72): As usual and as expected, Grgich Hills’ current release Cabernet Sauvignon is outstanding. I guess the question really is whether this producer can ever do anything wrong. Year after year, the team at Grgich Hills produces stunning, balanced wines from a slew of different varieties of grapes, even Zinfandel. … Read more
Raeburn, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($20): This is a wine that presents a problem for a wine critic. I personally do not care for the in-your-face character, which favors power over elegance. But it is well made and an excellent example of that style of Chardonnay, which I know many people adore. … Read more
Prà, Soave (Veneto, Italy) “Otto” 2016
($18): Prà, one of Soave’s top producers and one of those responsible for the region’s renaissance, makes several Soave. Their top wine is from a single vineyard, Montegrande and is a blend of Garganega (70%) and Trebbiano di Soave. This one, Otto, named after a border collie, is their basic Soave made entirely from Garganega and aged exclusively in stainless steel tanks. … Read more