($65): This mid-weight Cabernet Franc-dominant blend displays fabulous herbal/leafy character intertwined with dried and fresh red fruit notes. It packs plenty of punch without being heavy. Supple tannins lend support and balance, while allowing for pleasant current drinking. In a word, yum! … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Weingut Norbert Bauer, Niederösterreich (Austria) Grüner Veltliner “Schplïnk!” 2023
($41): Wine is full of surprises. At what turned out to be a very good, unassuming-looking Cambodian restaurant in Brooklyn, Lulu Mae, I saw a Grüner Veltliner by the glass for all of $12 on their short but enticing wine list. … Read more
October One Vineyard, Virginia (United States) Albariño 2022
($29): Wow! Who knew Albariño could do so well in Virginia? Initial aromatics captivate and predict pleasure. A crisp cutting edginess balances its surprising depth. Zesty spiciness just enhances its appeal. The barest hint of an attractive bitterness, characteristic of the grape, appears in the finish. … Read more
Bluestone Vineyard, Shenandoah Valley (Virginia) Petit Verdot 2017
($30): Full disclosure: Petit Verdot ranks near the bottom of my list of varietal wines because they are too often too heavy, too dense, too much of everything. Not this one! Weighing in at a modest 13.5% stated alcohol, it is a delight. … Read more
Capensis, Western Cape (South Africa) Chardonnay 2020
($80, Sovereign Wine Imports): Unsurprisingly, this Chardonnay, with its 14.5 percent stated alcohol, delivers considerably more oomph than Capensis’ Silene bottling. More complexity accompanies the additional power, yet the wine is not flamboyant or over-the-top. There is a subtle melon-like fruitiness. … Read more
Capensis, Stellenbosch (Western Cape, South Africa) Chardonnay “Silene” 2021
($40, Sovereign Wine Imports): Capensis is a Jackson Family project in South Africa. As you would expect from the Jackson Family, the wines are very good. This offering, their “entry level” (a term I dislike, but am at a loss for an alternative), conveys mild fruitiness and invigorating bright acidity. … Read more
Capensis, Stellenbosch (Western Cape, South Africa) Chardonnay “Fijnbosch” 2020
($115, Sovereign Wine Imports): The Fijnbosch bottling, the weightiest of this trio of Capensis Chardonnays, still manages not to avoid the buttery and overdone trap. Instead, it is rich and creamy, quite delectable. Bright backbone keeps it fresh and in balance. … Read more
Michael Shaps, Monticello (Virginia) “En Hommage, L. Scott” 2020
($58): Shaps’ unusual blend (Tannat 50%, Merlot 33%, and Malbec) shows the wonderful diversity of grapes and high-quality wine coming from that state. Tannat, a grape native to southwestern France, is known for producing big tannic red wines. Presumably, the inclusion of Merlot and even Malbec is meant to soften Tannat’s edges. … Read more
Hark Vineyards, Monticello (Virginia) “Spark” 2019
($48): This Cabernet Franc-dominate Bordeaux blend confirms what Thomas Jefferson knew centuries ago: Virginia’s Monticello AVA, located in the middle of state, is good place to grow grapes and make wine. Hark’s mid-weight Spark does actually light up the palate. A “just right” amount of structure provides a backbone to this plummy red without being intrusive. … Read more
La Crema Winery, Monterey (California) Chardonnay 2022
($20): La Crema makes wines from multiple appellations, so check the label carefully. This well-priced versatile Monterey Chardonnay is a crowd-pleaser because it combines a touch of creamy buttery flavors with green apple ones. It is soft enough to savor a glass before a meal and has enough verve to accompany a roast chicken. … Read more
Argentiera, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio al Ginepri” 2022
($25, Volio Imports): This ripe, 14.5 percent stated alcohol, Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant Bordeaux blend delivers up-front fruitiness wrapped in plush tannins and supported by a touch of firmness that prevents it from being flabby. Good acidity and a hint of bitterness in the finish keep it in balance though the overt fruitiness still predominates at this stage. … Read more
Mountain & Vine Vineyards and Winery, Monticello (Virginia) Chardonnay 2022
($39): Here is more evidence that the diversity of the Virginia landscape allows that state to produce a wide range of wines, in this case a stylish Chardonnay. Mountain & Vine Vineyards and Winery Chardonnay, one of the top twelve wines from the recently concluded Virginia Governor’s Cup competition, impresses with it finesse. … Read more
King Family Vineyards, Monticello (Virginia) Meritage 2019
($75): Here is another winning wine from Virginia’s Monticello AVA. Surprisingly, Virginia actually ranks among the top ten states in terms of wine production and likely higher in terms of quality. This Merlot-dominate Bordeaux delivers a seamless combination of dark fruitiness and herbal, not-just-fruit elements. … Read more
Afton Mountain Vineyards, Monticello (Virginia) “T” 2019
($55): This Merlot-dominant Bordeaux blend was one of the top 12 wines in the recently completed Virginia Governor’s Cup Competition. Firm, yet mild and unobtrusive tannins, presumably from the Cabernet Sauvignon, provide needed structure for the plummy fruit notes. The suave texture speaks to talented winemaking and what must have come from selecting only the best fruit. … Read more
Guillot-Broux, Mâcon-Chardonnay (Burgundy, France) “En Serre” 2022
($30): The Mâconnais in southern Burgundy is the place to find affordable Chardonnay-based white Burgundy, especially from a top-notch produced like Guillot Broux. Although the wine is made from Chardonnay grape, the Chardonnay on the label in this case refers to a village of the same name. … Read more
Domaine Boris Champy, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) “Bignon 421” 2022
($55): Boris Champy, one of the Burgundy’s most talented winemakers is, paradoxically, one of the least recognized. Although he deserves it, Champy lacks the rock-star profile of a Dominque Lafon, Benjamin Leroux, and others. Thankfully, for us consumers, the prices of his wines reflect that. … Read more
Trivento, Lujan de Cuyo (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec “Golden Reserve” Black Series 2020
($20, Eagle Peak Estates): Trivento produces a host of Malbec so be sure you read the label. This plummy one, named “Golden Reserve” and with a black and gold label, is a big, ripe red with suave texture and mild tannins that makes it ideal for entering a crowd this summer around the grill. … Read more
Domaine de La Garenne, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2022
($50): Tasting this Pouilly-Fuissé side-by-side with Domaine de La Garenne’s fine Mâcon wines, you easily see the differences between those two appellations, even though they abut one another in places. Someone clearly knew where to draw the lines. Always a popular Chardonnay-based wine in the U.S.,… Read more
Domaine de La Garenne, Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly (Burgundy, France) 2022
($33): Comparing this wine, from the southern part of the Mâconnais, to Domaine de La Garenne’s Mâcon-Azé, which is located in the north of the appellation, shows the fabulous diversity within the Mâconnais. The bolder Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly delivers more weight and more stoniness without losing any freshness. … Read more
Domaine de La Garenne, Mâcon Azé (Burgundy, France) 2022
($33): It is worth repeating — the Mâconnais is the place to fine excellent white wines, especially from the 2022 vintage, at reasonable prices. As more and more growers discover the beauty of this part of Burgundy, we will see wines, like this one, that provide greater specificity regarding the origin of the grapes. … Read more
Maison Auvigue, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) “Chênes” 2022
($35): Saint-Véran, which lies adjacent to Pouilly-Fuissé in the Mâconnais, lies between single village Mâcon wines, like Mâcon-Azé, and Pouilly-Fuissé in the appellation hierarchy. That is not to say you can’t find a Mâcon-Azé that is more stylish and enjoyable than a Saint-Véran, nor does it mean that every Pouilly-Fuissé is superior to every Saint-Véran. … Read more
Domaine Merlin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) Le Grand Bussière 2022
($33): Despite the location of the vineyard, Le Grand Bussière, in the village of Fuissé, the appellation is Saint-Véran because Fuissé (the village) spans two appellations, Pouilly-Fuissé and Saint-Véran. (Who ever said that Burgundy was simple to understand?) This edgy Saint-Véran, with its cutting stone-y quality, shows why that appellation ranks above Mâcon in prestige. … Read more
La Soufrandière, Pouilly-Vinzelles (Burgundy, France) Les Quarts 2022
($60): There is no better producer in the Mâconnais than La Soufrandière, a family domaine owned by the Bret Brothers. The brothers also buy grapes from neighbors and other growers who have the same meticulous philosophy as they and bottle them as a négociant under the label, Bret Brothers. … Read more
Domaine Merlin, Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chevrières 2022
($72): The French wine authorities have finally identified and codified Premier Cru vineyards for Pouilly-Fuissé so that moniker along with the vineyard name is now appearing on the label, just as in the rest of Burgundy. Unsurprisingly, the elevation of some vineyards to Premier Cru classification has brought with it an elevation of price. … Read more
Domaine J. A. Ferret, Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Ménétrières “Hors Classe” 2022
($93, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, recently purchased Domaine J. A. Ferret, one of stars of Pouilly-Fuissé. Under Jadot’s leadership, the quality of the Ferret wines, already top-notch, has risen even more. (Sadly, so has the price.) … Read more
Domaine Rijckaert, Mâcon Lugny (Burgundy, France) Les Crays Vers Vaux Vieilles Vignes 2022
($30): Florent Rouve, owner of Domaine Rijckaert, explains that he wants to “maintain the freshness and purity” of the grapes, so eschews aging in new oak barrels and batonnâge (stirring of the lees), which tends to increase richness of the wines. … Read more
Domaine Rijckaert, Macon Bussières (Burgundy, France) Au Clos Vieilles Vignes 2022
($30): The Mâconnais, a less prestigious part of Burgundy south of the well-heeled Côte d’Or, is the place to find superb Chardonnay-based wines. When the wine come from a single village, such as Bussières or Lugny to name just two, the village name can appear on the label instead of the more generic, Mâcon-Villages. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Viré-Clessé (Burgundy, France) 2022
($38, Louis Latour, USA): Appellations within the Mâconnais, like Viré-Clessé, are the place to go to find affordable, or at least more affordable, white Burgundy. Viré and Clessé, two adjacent villages whose wines previously were labeled as Mâcon-Viré and Mâcon-Clessé, convinced French wine regulators that their wines were distinctive enough to merit their own appellations. … Read more
Auvigue, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) “Les Villages” 2022
($49): The buzz engulfing Pouilly-Fuissé comes from the well-deserved designation of premier cru vineyards. So, now that distinction will appear on labels. But let’s not forget the village wines. A village Pouilly-Fuissé from a top house, like Auvigue, will compete with those labeled premier cru from less talented producers. … Read more
Cantine Ermes, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Epicentro” 2018
($24): Cantine Emes’ unnecessarily heavy bottle and a label proclaiming Riserva gives a good indication that this Nero d’Avola will be at the more muscular end of the spectrum of wine that variety can produce. The wine is bold, but not too pushy. … Read more
Regaleali, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola 2020
($16): Regaleali, owned by the Tasca d’Almerita family, one of the most famous and important producers in Sicily, rarely fails. They certainly didn’t with this one, a harmonious balance of berry fruit and savory notes enrobed with a supple and suave texture. … Read more
La Pépière, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Monnières-Saint Fiacre (Loire Valley, France) 2019
($32): The appellation needs some explanation. But first, what needs no explanation is La Pépière, one the finest producers of Muscadet. They are so consistent, it is safe to say if you see their name on a label, you should buy the wine. … Read more
Le Rocher des Violettes, Mountlouis-sur-Loire (Loire Valley, France) “Touche-Mitaine” 2021
($28): Mountlouis-sur-Loire lies across the Loire River from Vouvray and uses the same Chenin Blanc grape for its captivatingly delicious wines. Similar in style to Vouvray, they vary from dry, like this one, to sweet. A waiter at GrandCoeur, an exceptional new-wave bistro in the Marais section of Paris, recommended this one to me. … Read more
Domaine Ganevat, Côtes du Jura (France) Chardonnay “Rouchamps” 2018
($350): Full disclosure — I have not become enamored of the wines of the Jura because of their often-oxidized style. This one could change that because it is fresh despite having undergone four years — you read that correctly — of fermentation. … Read more
René Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Longeroies Vieilles Vignes 2019
($47): Marsannay, almost a suburb of Dijon, is the northernmost appellation of the Côtes de Nuits. Usually, wines from Burgundy’s exalted Côtes de Nuits, think Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, or Vosne-Romanée, are frightfully expensive. Marsannay has not gotten the message — yet. They will. … Read more
Laura Lardy, Chénas (Beaujolais, France) “La Fayarde” 2022
($30): Chénas, the smallest of the 10 Crus (named villages) of the Beaujolais region, is known for producing robust wines. Laura Lardy is one of Beaujolais’ top producers. Put the two together and you get this deeply rich wine with a balancing tarriness and uplifting freshness. … Read more
Viña Cobos, Mendoza (Argentina) “Cocodrilo” 2020
($29, Paul Hobbs Selections): The quality is not surprisingly given this wine is part of the Paul Hobbs collection. What did catch me by surprise, however, was the price of this glossy and polished Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (72%), Malbec (18%), Cabernet France (5%), and Petit Verdot. … Read more
Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($24): Badia a Coltibuono provides another compelling argument for the joys Chianti Classico in general. Their luscious and well-priced 2020 delivers an ideal combination of dark cherry-like fruit balanced by savory or herbal nuances, while weighing in at a modest 13.5 percent stated alcohol. … Read more
I Fabbri, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Terra di Lamole” 2020
($28): The wines from the higher, and therefore cooler, elevations, like Lamole, turned out especially well in 2020, another year with a hot and dry growing season. Lamole’s cooler climate imbued the wines, such as I Fabbri’s, with a firmness and freshness that balances the dark cherry-like nuances. … Read more
Caravaglio, Salina Bianco IGT (Aeolian Islands, Sicily, Italy) “Salina” 2022
($26): Salina is both the name of the wine and the tiny volcanic Aeolian island just north of Sicily in the Mediterranean. Barely 10 square miles in area, it has six inactive volcanos that account for its lava rich soil. Here the Malvasia di Lipari makes a riveting dry wine that electrifies the palate. … Read more
Jermann, Friuli Venezia Giulia (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2022
($25): If Jermann’s captivating Pinot Grigio was your first experience with Pinot Grigio, it would be easy to understand the popularity of the category. Alas, few Pinot Grigio have the character of Jermann’s. Subtly aromatic, Jermann’s refreshing 2022 Pinot Grigio has appeal that belies its lightweight density. … Read more
Capezzana, Toscana Rosso (Tuscany, Italy) “Ugo Contini Bonacossi” 2019
($60): The Contini Bonacossi family owns Capezzana, Carmignano’s best producer. Ugo Contini Bonacossi, who transformed the property from the typical sharecropping agricultural endeavor of the era, into the current modern wine and olive oil producing estate, adored a particular small Sangiovese vineyard that he thought consistently produced exceptional grapes. … Read more
Frescobaldi, Chianti Rùfina Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Nipozzano” 2020
($18): Rùfina, the smallest of the Chianti subzones, is mountainous and wild. The wines, like this one, have an appealing wildness and refinement. Frescobaldi, Rùfina’s largest and most important producer, never falters, which means that this 2020 delivers more than its price suggests. … Read more
Villa Calcinaia, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($21): The ready-to-drink 2020 Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico shows why Chianti Classico is so popular. Lip-smacking acidity acts as the foil for its succulent black cherry-like fruitiness. Subtle spice common to Chianti Classico adds appealing complexity, preventing monotony. Mild tannins lend support without intruding. … Read more
Girolamo Russo, Etna Rosso (Sicily, Italy) “‘a Rina” 2020
($34): This looks like a Rosé in the glass, but fortunately it displays enormous character and complexity, so you know it’s not a rosé. Girolamo Russo, one of Etna’s top producers, makes a range of terrific wines from that mountain. This one, ‘a Rina, is a blend, and could be considered his “basic” — though there’s nothing basic about it — wine. … Read more
Domaine Buisson-Charles, Meursault (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2021
($106, Martine’s Wines): Domaine Buisson-Charles, a well-regarded Meursault-based family domaine, blends grapes from six parcels to make this stellar village wine. Some are hillside parcels that provide grapes with higher acidity, and some are lower down that imbue the grapes, and subsequent wine, with more richness. … Read more
Dupont-Fahn, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chaumes des Perrières 2020
($52): The story goes that a parcel of vines in the Merusault Perrières vineyard lost its exalted appellation classification when the owner added 10-inches or so of topsoil to replace that which had been washed away. That modification turned what is now called Chaumes des Perrières into Bourgogne Blanc — not even Meursault. … Read more
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($32, Volio Imports): I reviewed this wine last year and jumped at the chance to revisit it since it is still available at the retail level. Spoiler alert — I like it just as much. As a reminder, the Cecchi family has two distinct estates in Chianti Classico, Villa Cerna and Villa Rosa, both in Castellina in Chianti. … Read more
Villa Rosa, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Ribaldoni” 2018
($33, Volio Imports): The Cecchi family purchased the Villa Rosa estate in 2015 because it was an ideal site for Sangiovese. The focus is to make a Gran Selezione, the category at the tip of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid. I suspect this Chianti Classico comes from grapes that did not make it into the Gran Selezione. … Read more
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Primocolle” 2020
($19, Volio Imports): Villa Cerna is the home, and one of the estates, of the Cecchi family, one of the top producers in Tuscany. Primocolle — literally, first hill — comes from vineyards at lower elevations on the estate. The bright and juicy 2020 Primocolle is a lovely, classically proportioned Chianti Classico filled with good depth and an impeccable combination of fruity and savory notes. … Read more