Category Archives: Reviews

Quinta Casal Monteiro, Tejo (Portugal) Arinto Terra de Touros 2015

($10, Iberian Wine Imports):  Although Portugal is better known for their red wines, their whites have gotten better and better over the last five years and soon could be competing with their reds for serious attention.  Floral and delicate with a refreshing line of acidity in the finish, this light-bodied white would go well with steamed clams or simply grilled white fish.Read more

Bortolotti, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV

($24, Marc de Grazia Selections):  Prosecco has replaced “Champagne” in the U.S. as the new default name for any sparkling wine.  And with its popularity has come an extraordinary range of quality from insipid to extraordinary.  The best Proseccos, such as this one, come from hillside vineyards, which carry their own DOCG, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, as opposed to those that come from the flat lands. Read more

Migration, Sta. Rita Hills (California) Pinot Noir Drum Canyon Vineyard 2015

($68):  Migration, yet another label of the Duckhorn Wine Company, focuses on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Their first wine was the 2001 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir.  Now they have ‘migrated’ to other regions of California, showing that the French do not have a monopoly of terroir — the concept that the place where the grapes grow determines the character of the wine. Read more

Migration, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Running Creek 2015

($68):  This one, from a different vineyard in the Russian River Valley, is the boldest of this trio of Pinot Noir and delivers more black, rather than red, fruit character.  Similar to Migration’s other offerings, its suave texture makes it extremely appealing for current consumption, though its balance suggests it will develop nicely with bottle age.Read more

Masút Vineyard and Winery, Mendocino County (California) Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard 2016

($40):  Ben and Jake Fetzer, grandsons of famed Barney Fetzer who made Fetzer Vineyards a household name in the 1990s, founded Masút Vineyard and Winery in 2009 to focus on Pinot Noir.  Their father had purchased 1,200 acres in Mendocino County, which the sons planted — they have 35-acres devoted to Pinot Noir — and eventually established the Eagle Peak appellation.Read more

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2015

($23, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):  Mercurey, a small town in the Côte Chalonnaise in Southern Burgundy, is an especially good place to look for values in 2015.  The extra warmth of the vintage helped these less prestigious sites.  Compared to Drouhin’s Rully, from a neighboring village in the Côte Chalonnaise, this Mercurey has more earthiness accompanying its bright fruitiness. Read more

Kim Crawford, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Signature Reserve 2017

($25):  Kim Crawford, a leading producer of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, has introduced what they call a “luxury tier.”  A clear cut above their usual bottling, it has a long finish and better mid-palate.  Their Signature Reserve conveys a delightful and balanced mixture of tropical fruit and citrus flavors, finishing with a zesty pleasant bite characteristic of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Read more

Buena Vista, Sonoma County (California) “The Count” Red Wine 2015

($20):  If you haven’t visited Buena Vista since the new regime came to town, you should definitely stop in and see what Jean Charles Boisset is up to with the restoration, and you can meet the Count while you’re there.  Make sure you ask him to taste you on his namesake’s wine — it’s a fitting tribute to the original Count Agoston Haraszthy, with a sassy spice profile joining bright red fruit. Read more

Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County (California) Zinfandel “Heritage Vines” 2016

($24):  Full disclosure, I’m not a fan of Zinfandel.  So, it’s a dilemma when I come across one like this.  I don’t personally like it, but that’s beside the point.  It’s really good wine — a fine expression of Zinfandel.  Sure, it’s bold — it is Zinfandel, after all — but tips the stated-alcohol scales at under 15%, which some would say makes it a bantam-weight for that varietal.  Read more

Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir Confluence Vineyard 2015

($84):  Though Goldeneye’s Pinot Noir from the Confluence Vineyard conveys more fruity elements than earthy ones, savory nuances appear and add complexity.  Supple tannins lend support without intruding and bright acidity keeps it fresh.  A touch of heat in the finish compared to their other single vineyard bottlings tempers my enthusiasm. Read more