($19): Many people in the wine trade tell me that they avoid Cabernet Franc because it can deliver vegetal flavors if not entirely ripe. It can. But it can also be the basis for a spectacular wine — think Bordeaux’s Château Cheval Blanc — by providing a needed savory component. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Henri Badoux, Chablais (Vaud, Switzerland) “Aigle les Murailles” 2016
($40, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Swiss wines are not widely available outside of Switzerland because the Swiss drink most of it themselves. This one, from the Chablais (not to be confused with Chablis) on the shores of Lake Geneva is worth search for. … Read more
Quinta Casal Monteiro, Tejo (Portugal) Arinto Terra de Touros 2015
($10, Iberian Wine Imports): Although Portugal is better known for their red wines, their whites have gotten better and better over the last five years and soon could be competing with their reds for serious attention. Floral and delicate with a refreshing line of acidity in the finish, this light-bodied white would go well with steamed clams or simply grilled white fish.… Read more
Champagne Gardet, Champagne (France) Brut Premier Cru Blanc de Noirs NV
($50): This is a gorgeous Blanc de Noirs made entirely from Pinot Noir (60%) and Pinot Meunier grown in the Premier Cru village of Hautvillers. Aromatic, with a prominent display of red fruits, it has the power of red grapes offset by a spine of acidity. … Read more
Chappellet, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2015
($45): So much Merlot is consumed thoughtlessly as a pre-dinner drink — as in “I’ll have a glass of Merlot” — that consumers could be excused if they think grape is incapable of producing serious wine. Chappellet’s 2015 Merlot should dispel that idea. … Read more
Writer’s Block, Lake County (California) Syrah 2015
($18): I was predisposed to dislike the wine because of its cutesy name. But, just as you can’t judge a book by its cover, you need to taste to fairly evaluate a wine. This is a well-proportioned Syrah that brings black fruit, smoky and peppery notes together seamlessly. … Read more
Jordan, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
($56): I admire Jordan because they have never veered from their style of making refined and polished Cabernet Sauvignon. They’ve avoided the “bigger is better” trap, and have remained focused on elegance and refinement. Take this 2014 Cabernet. From the moment you smell it, you know you’re in for a treat. … Read more
Bortolotti, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV
($24, Marc de Grazia Selections): Prosecco has replaced “Champagne” in the U.S. as the new default name for any sparkling wine. And with its popularity has come an extraordinary range of quality from insipid to extraordinary. The best Proseccos, such as this one, come from hillside vineyards, which carry their own DOCG, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, as opposed to those that come from the flat lands. … Read more
Villa Vignamaggio, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Morino” 2015
($12, Montcalm Wine Importers): Vignamaggio makes excellent Chianti Classico, so it comes as no surprise that this simple IGT Toscana delivers more than you’d expect for the price. Fruitier with far fewer savory notes compared to Chianti Classico, it’s a cheery fresh wine, full of cherry-like notes. … Read more
Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Les Chanteaux” 2016
($25): The vast amount (95%) of wine made in Chinon, one of many picturesque villages in the Loire Valley, is red. Although limited, the amount of white, made from Chenin Blanc grapes, is increasing because of its immediate appeal to consumers. … Read more
Bodega Catena Zapata, Uco Valley (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec La Consulta 2015
($25, The Winebow Group): The Malbec from La Consulta could redefine the image of wine made from that grape. Not just big and ripe, this Malbec is lively and racy with appealing smoky nuances. Though it displays Malbec’s smooth tannins, it is far fresher compared to Lunlunta. … Read more
Bodega Catena Zapata, Maipu (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec Lunlunta 2015
($25, The Winebow Group): Catena, as the producer is usually known, is one of Argentina’s top producers. They have always championed vineyards planted at high elevations, believing that the cooler temperature and the character of the sunshine make the wines distinctive. … Read more
Sonoma-Loeb, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2016
($34): John Loeb, Jr, former Ambassador to Denmark, businessman and philanthropist, established Sonoma-Loeb in 1990. The wines had always been made at Chappellet Vineyard and Winery, so when Chappellet purchased the property in 2011, nothing really changed — the wines are still top-notch. … Read more
Steele, Santa Barbara County (California) Pinot Noir Goodchild Vineyard 2014
($30): Jed Steele has a long history of making fine wine in California so my enthusiasm for this wine is not surprising. Steele purchases grapes from the Goodchild Vineyard which is located just across the river from the famed Bien Nacido vineyard (He also makes a Pinot Noir from grapes grown in that vineyard.) … Read more
Domaine du Closel, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) Clos du Papillon 2016
($50): An extraordinary wine from an obscure area, the Domaine du Closel’s Savennières is thrilling in the best sense of the word. Thrilling because you don’t expect it. As in, where did this come from and why haven’t I heard about these wines? … Read more
Domaine du Grand Mouton, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) “Sur Lie” 2016
($21, Vintage ’59 Imports): Wines from the Muscadet area, the far west of the Loire Valley, especially those from the sub-region Sèvre et Maine, are fabulous with simple seafood, such as oysters or steamed clams. Louis Métaireau’s Grand Mouton is a “go-to” Muscadet Sèvre et Maine for just such fare. … Read more
Migration, Sta. Rita Hills (California) Pinot Noir Drum Canyon Vineyard 2015
($68): Migration, yet another label of the Duckhorn Wine Company, focuses on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Their first wine was the 2001 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. Now they have ‘migrated’ to other regions of California, showing that the French do not have a monopoly of terroir — the concept that the place where the grapes grow determines the character of the wine. … Read more
Migration, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Running Creek 2015
($68): This one, from a different vineyard in the Russian River Valley, is the boldest of this trio of Pinot Noir and delivers more black, rather than red, fruit character. Similar to Migration’s other offerings, its suave texture makes it extremely appealing for current consumption, though its balance suggests it will develop nicely with bottle age.… Read more
Migration, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch 2015
($68): Migration’s Pinot Noir from the famed Dutton Ranch in Russian River Valley has more oomph than their Sta. Rita bottling, no doubt from slightly warmer climate. Still, it has a lovely lacey, almost, red fruit delicacy, which to my mind is another key component of Pinot Noir — its ability to deliver flavor without weight.… Read more
Masút Vineyard and Winery, Mendocino County (California) Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard 2016
($40): Ben and Jake Fetzer, grandsons of famed Barney Fetzer who made Fetzer Vineyards a household name in the 1990s, founded Masút Vineyard and Winery in 2009 to focus on Pinot Noir. Their father had purchased 1,200 acres in Mendocino County, which the sons planted — they have 35-acres devoted to Pinot Noir — and eventually established the Eagle Peak appellation.… Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2015
($23, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Mercurey, a small town in the Côte Chalonnaise in Southern Burgundy, is an especially good place to look for values in 2015. The extra warmth of the vintage helped these less prestigious sites. Compared to Drouhin’s Rully, from a neighboring village in the Côte Chalonnaise, this Mercurey has more earthiness accompanying its bright fruitiness. … Read more
Shooting Star, Lake County (California) Pinot Noir 2015
($14): Unbelievable. My first and second — and third — reaction to this wine. Wine with real Pinot Noir character at $14 a bottle. Fresh and clean, it’s a delicate, but flavorful wine that finishes ever so slightly sweet. But fresh acidity keeps it balanced. … Read more
Kim Crawford, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Signature Reserve 2017
($25): Kim Crawford, a leading producer of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, has introduced what they call a “luxury tier.” A clear cut above their usual bottling, it has a long finish and better mid-palate. Their Signature Reserve conveys a delightful and balanced mixture of tropical fruit and citrus flavors, finishing with a zesty pleasant bite characteristic of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Nobilo, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Icon” 2015
($17, Constellation Imports): The Marlborough region on the northern end of New Zealand’s South Island is rapidly becoming known for Pinot Noir. This one imparts a pure, clean fruitiness that is, paradoxically, both intense and delicate. There’s not a trace of heaviness. … Read more
Château de Fuissé, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Le Clos 2015
($69, Frederick Wildman and Sons): Pouilly-Fuissé doesn’t get any better than this. Le Clos, sure to be classified as a premier cru vineyard when the classification system for Pouilly-Fuissé goes into effect in the next year or so, is owned solely — a monopole — by Château de Fuissé, one of the top producers in the appellation. … Read more
Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Mâcon-Chaintré (Burgundy, France) “Réserve des Rochers” 2015
($12): Chaintré is one of the communes that comprise the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. If a wine comes exclusively from vineyards in the village, but lie outside of that famous appellation, they can carry the name of village instead of the more generic appellation of Mâcon-Villages. … Read more
Domaine Vaudon, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Montmains 2015
($35, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The 2015 vintage in Burgundy was outstanding for both reds and whites. Reds belong in the cellar, while the whites are delicious for earlier drinking as this one demonstrates. Domaine Vaudon is the Drouhin estate in Chablis where they make sensational wines. … Read more
Pieropan, Calvarino, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, 2015
I Stefanini, Il Selese, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2016
Bolla, Tufaie, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2016
Prà, Otto, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2016
Inama, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2016
Pieropan, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2017
Coffele, Castel Cerino, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, 2016
Ca’Rugate, Monte Fiorentine, Soave, Classico, Soave, 2016
I Stefanini, Monte di Fice, Soave, Classico, Soave, 2016
Inama, Vigneto du Lot, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, 2016
Gini, La Froscà, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2014
Buena Vista, Sonoma County (California) “The Count” Red Wine 2015
($20): If you haven’t visited Buena Vista since the new regime came to town, you should definitely stop in and see what Jean Charles Boisset is up to with the restoration, and you can meet the Count while you’re there. Make sure you ask him to taste you on his namesake’s wine — it’s a fitting tribute to the original Count Agoston Haraszthy, with a sassy spice profile joining bright red fruit. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2015
($23): After tasting this lovely Rully, a word Master Sommelier Andrea Immer Robinson once used to describe a wine sprang to mind: “Delish!” Fresh and juicy, there’s not a hint of over-ripeness in mid-weight red. A hint of earthiness adds intrigue to this well-proportioned ready-to-drink village wine. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2016
($30): Mercurey, an often-overlooked village in the Côte Chalonnaise, is home to well-priced authentic Burgundy, both red and white. In this era of stratospheric prices for Burgundies, consumers should search for wines from this village. Château de Chamirey, one of the finest producers in the Côte Chalonnaise, made a superb array of Mercurey wines in 2016. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Maladière 2015
($35): This is the first vintage that Château de Chamirey decided to bottle wine from this 3.5-acre vineyard separately. Half went into this bottling, while the other half went into their village Mercurey blend. Although not from a premier cru vineyard, this 2015 tastes like a premier cru wine. … Read more
Domaine de Clos Salomon, Givrey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos Salomon 2016
($35): Domaine Salomon is a — perhaps the — star in Givrey, yet another under-rated village in the Côte Chalonnaise. (Don’t confuse this village with Gevrey, as in Chambertin, in the Côte d’Or.) This wine, their flagship, hails from a 17.5-acre that they own exclusively. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay DVC Estate Block 10 2016
($32): Chardonnay lovers, listen up. And those who think they don’t care for Chardonnay should also lend an ear. There’s a delicacy to this wine that makes it very appealing. Its fruitiness is enhanced by a hint of seductive oakiness. It delivers richness without being overt, overdone or heavy handed. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County (California) Zinfandel “Heritage Vines” 2016
($24): Full disclosure, I’m not a fan of Zinfandel. So, it’s a dilemma when I come across one like this. I don’t personally like it, but that’s beside the point. It’s really good wine — a fine expression of Zinfandel. Sure, it’s bold — it is Zinfandel, after all — but tips the stated-alcohol scales at under 15%, which some would say makes it a bantam-weight for that varietal. … Read more
J. Lohr, Paso Robles (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Hilltop” 2015
($35): A touch (5%) of Petit Verdot and Malbec enhance this delightful Cabernet Sauvignon. Filled with dark fruit and olive-like savory notes, it’s ready to enjoy now because of its fine, polished tannins. Juicy acidity in the finish keeps it lively throughout the meal. … Read more
Cuvaison, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2015
($42): Although lovely herbal notes appear in this Pinot Noir, the focus is firmly footed on fruitiness. Suave mild tannins support the juicy red fruit nuances. The finish has a touch of sweetness, which makes the wine useful as a stand-alone glass before a meal.… Read more
La Crema, Arroyo Seco (Monterey, California) Pinot Noir Panorama Vineyard 2014
($40): Another fruit-focused Pinot Noir with good weight and a suave texture. Not overdone in the “Pinot Syrah” mode, it finishes a touch sweet, which I suspect is due in part to its 14.5% stated alcohol. Ready to drink now. I’d be sure to served it ever so slightly chilled to minimize the effect of the alcohol.… Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir Confluence Vineyard 2015
($84): Though Goldeneye’s Pinot Noir from the Confluence Vineyard conveys more fruity elements than earthy ones, savory nuances appear and add complexity. Supple tannins lend support without intruding and bright acidity keeps it fresh. A touch of heat in the finish compared to their other single vineyard bottlings tempers my enthusiasm. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir The Narrows Vineyard 2015
($84): Goldeneye, one of Duckhorn’s many labels, has captured the delicacy and charm of Pinot Noir with this single vineyard bottling. Delicate, red fruit flavors dance on the palate. Beautifully balanced, subtle bitter notes in the finish complement the sense of sweetness from its fruitiness. … Read more