Category Archives: Reviews

Pierre-Marie Chermette, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Poncié 2016

($26, Weygandt-Metzler):  Pierre-Marie Chermette, a well-regarded producer in Fleurie, one of the cru of Beaujolais, focuses on terroir — site specificity — in keeping with the tradition in the rest of Burgundy.  Chermette produces two excellent, but very different Fleurie, this one from Poncié and one from a slope called Garants.Read more

Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Pinot Noir “Le Rosé” 2017

($18, Quintessential):  Although most people, with good reason, associated Alsace with white wines, such as Riesling, Gewurztraminer, or Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir actually accounts for roughly 10 percent of plantings in that region.  This rosé of Pinot Noir comes from grapes planted at the foot and just outside of the Grand Cru vineyard, Altenberg de Bergheim. Read more

Allegrini, Veronese IGT (Veneto, Italy) “Palazzo della Torre” 2014

($18):  Allegrini, a top-tier producer, is one of the locomotives in the Valpolicella area, introducing many consumers to the joys of the wines from that part of Italy.  They make an outstanding line-up of wines across the board.  Their Palazzo della Torre, a kind of a baby Amarone, is a blend of Corvina and Rondinella whose body has been pumped up with a portion of dried grapes that they add to the newly made wine. Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Montagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Grande Roche 2015

($22, Louis Latour USA):  The 2015 vintage in Burgundy–and most of France for that matter — produced excellent reds, with ripeness and presence.  Whites were less consistent because sometimes the warmth of the vintage robbed them of needed acidity.  But when producers harnessed the ripeness without losing acidity, as with this wine, the result is stunning. Read more

Les Maisons Rouges, Jasnières (Loire Valley, France) “Sur le Nez” Sec 2016

($25, AP Wine Imports):  Jasnières, a tiny (161-acre) appellation, is well away from the river and the Loire’s northern-most outpost.  Similar to Savennières, another lesser-known Loire appellation, Jasnières uses only Chenin Blanc to produce its steely, impressive white wines. Les Maison Rouges, founded almost 25 years ago, in 1994, has rapidly become one of the area’s top producers. Read more

Bohigas, Cava (Spain) “Rosat” NV

($13, Polaner Selections):  It can be difficult to find a wine to accompany Vietnamese, indeed most Asian fare, with its plethora of flavors.  This Rosé Cava worked splendidly with the stellar food at the Hanoi House in New York.  It was gentle enough to work as a celebratory pre-dinner drink and firm enough to cut through the spice and lemongrass. Read more

Thierry Germain, Domaine des Roches Neuves, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) “L’Insolite” 2015

($40):  Thierry Germain is one of the most talented and enthusiastic winemakers in the Loire.  He makes small quantities of outstanding individualistic reds and whites that are always worth the search.  Take this one, for example, L’Insolite (unusual).  Made from 95-year-old Chenin Blanc vines planted on silex, it conveys a hint of white flowers, minerals combined with freshness and verve.Read more

Château Thivin, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2015

($28):  The wines from Côte de Brouilly, one of top-tier of the ten cru of Beaujolais, are not to be confused with those from Brouilly, another cru, but whose wines have less consistent quality.  Although Château Thivin, one of the region’s best producers, makes a range of wines from Côte de Brouilly depending on the position of the vines on the slope, this one is a blend from several sites. Read more

Kendall-Jackson, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay Jackson Estate 2016

($32):  Arguably, Kendall-Jackson is largely responsible for Americans’ love of Chardonnay.  So, it’s not surprising that they should expand their portfolio with site-specific bottlings of that variety.  This one, from Santa Maria Valley, delivers fruity, spiced pineapple-like flavors along with the opulence for which KJ is known.Read more

Kendall-Jackson, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay Camelot Highlands Jackson Estate 2016

($38):  The uniqueness of Santa Maria Valley, as a whole, stems from its east-west orientation, instead of the usually north-south orientation of most California valleys.  This orientation allows the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean direct access to the vineyards.  Indeed, vineyards just a few miles inland are considerable warmer, producing grapes and wines with different flavor profiles, than ones further west. Read more

Quinta Casal Monteiro, Tejo (Portugal) Arinto Terra de Touros 2015

($10, Iberian Wine Imports):  Although Portugal is better known for their red wines, their whites have gotten better and better over the last five years and soon could be competing with their reds for serious attention.  Floral and delicate with a refreshing line of acidity in the finish, this light-bodied white would go well with steamed clams or simply grilled white fish.Read more

Bortolotti, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV

($24, Marc de Grazia Selections):  Prosecco has replaced “Champagne” in the U.S. as the new default name for any sparkling wine.  And with its popularity has come an extraordinary range of quality from insipid to extraordinary.  The best Proseccos, such as this one, come from hillside vineyards, which carry their own DOCG, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, as opposed to those that come from the flat lands. Read more