($45, Louis Dressner Selections): Trained as a nuclear engineer, Texier turned to winemaking. He worked in Burgundy and told me he tries to put ‘Burgundian sensibilities into Rhône wines.’ His 2005 Condrieu has the Burgundian character of incredible flavor without heaviness.… Read more
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Rocky Gully, Frankland (Great Southern Region, Western Australia) Dry Riesling 2005
($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): I particularly love the Rieslings from Western Australia because they are unique. Neither flowery in the Germanic tradition nor powerful in the Alsace style, they have a lacey feel about them with a clean citric edge.… Read more
Rutherglen Estates, Rutherglen (Victoria, Australia) “The Alliance” 2005
($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Here is my vote for the best Rhône-style white wine produced outside of France. And it will give most Rhone Valley white wines a run for their money. Rutherglen’s Alliance, a marvelous blend of Marsanne and Viognier, has the hint of apricots often found in Rhone whites, but with a lightness that is often lacking in those wines.… Read more
Joseph, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot “Moda” 2002
($48, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Taking a cue from producers of Amarone (Moda refers to Moda Amarone), Joe Grilli, winemaker at Joseph, dries a small proportion of the grapes on straw mats before fermentation to add complexity to the finished wine.… Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Corton Grancey 1999
($70, Louis Latour, Inc): Corton Grancey is Latour’s flagship red wine made from their grapes grown in various Grand Cru vineyards on the Corton hill. The 1999 Corton Grancey is a stunning wine. Moreover, at seven years of age, it is delicious now.… Read more
Chanson Père et Fils, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Fèves 2002
($75, Paterno Wines International): Over the last decade, Chanson, one of the great names in Burgundy, has failed to deliver wines commensurate with the stature of its vineyards, especially since it owns tremendous sites-parts of ten 1er cru vineyards-in Beaune. That situation appears to be changing.… Read more
Anton Bauer, Donauland (Austria) Gruner Veltliner Gmork Vineyard 2005
($13): Anton Bauer, who took the reins of this family winery in 1992-at the ripe age of 20-is making wonderful white wines, including this one from his Gmork vineyard. Its lovely minerality, balanced by its bright and racy character, makes it best used with a meal as opposed to an aperitif.… Read more
Anton Bauer, Donauland (Austria) Riesling Berg Vineyard 2005
($18): Bauer has managed to combine an engaging fleshiness with a steely frame to fashion a thoroughly enjoyable and balanced Riesling that finishes without a trace of sweetness. Those who shun Riesling believing, erroneously, that it is always sweet, need to try this wine.… Read more
Gran Feudo, Navarra (Spain) Crianza 2002
($11, Kobrand): This is the Spanish equivalent of what I refer to in Italy as ‘pizza wine.’ It’s a well-constructed blend of mostly Tempranillo-for black fruit flavors-some Garnacha-for bright spice-and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon for structure. The grapes work well together, which makes this wine a good choice for take-out rotisserie chicken.… Read more
Wynns Coonawarra Estate, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
($16, PWG Vintners): Known simply as Wynns Black Label in Australia, their Cabernet Sauvignon delivers reliably every year. The 2002, with its herbal and mint nuances combined with attractive fleshiness, is no exception. Never, jammy or overblown, their Cabernet often develops beautifully with bottle aging as demonstrated by stellar examples from the 1970s, which are still delicious today.… Read more
Craggy Range Winery, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Chardonnay Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Les Beaux Cailloux” 2004
($60, Kobrand): This wine, Craggy Range’s single vineyard Chardonnay, is an elegant expression of the grape. In addition to its creamy, grapefruit flavors, it has real finesse as opposed to the obviousness that is all-too-common in the market today. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006… Read more
Sipp Mack, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2004
($13): Clean and brisk, with more intensity than many Pinot Blancs, Sipp Mack’s is a great value. You could drink it as an aperitif and then carry it to the table for a first course. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006
Sipp Mack, Alsace (France) Riesling Vieilles Vignes 2002
($19): A dry style of Riesling, Sipp Mack’s Vieilles Vignes conveys minerality throughout its considerable length. With plenty of power, it will hold up nicely with spicy Asian fare. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006
Rodney Strong Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Symmetry” 2001
($55): A typical Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, Rodney Strong’s 2001 Symmetry is a classy wine. Not overdone, the winemaker has ‘turned down the volume,’ allowing the layers of earth and mineral-like flavors to come through nicely.… Read more
The Wolf Trap, Western Cape (South Africa) 2005
($12, Vineyard Brands): A lovely blend of Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvedre and Viognier, The Wolf Trap is a well-balanced wine delivering layers of flavors, earth, smoke, black fruit and a little spice. Once you notice the producer’s name, Boekenhoutskloof, you understand why they emphasize the brand name on the label.… Read more
Krug, Champagne (France) Brut 1995
($250, Moet Hennessy USA): Krug ages their vintage Champagne and waits to release it until they feel it is ready to drink. Hence, the 1995 is their current release. (They released their awesome 1990 vintage Champagne only a few years ago).… Read more
Loma Gorda, Almansa (Spain) 2004
($12, Grapes of Spain): Leave it to Aurelio Cabestrero, owner of Grapes of Spain, to find an inexpensive delicious wine from the virtually unknown Denominación de Origen (DO) of Almansa, southwest of Valencia, not far from the Mediterranean. Made by a cooperative, the wine is 2/3 Garnacha, 1/3 Syrah and 100% enjoyable.… Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2004
($22, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): This stylish wine, from a village just north of Beaune, delivers quintessential Burgundian character at a reasonable-for Burgundy-price. Remarkably long, with the hint of earthiness that screams ‘Burgundy,’ it reminds us that good producers, such as Drouhin, make satisfying wines even in what the French call, ‘difficult years.’… Read more
Altano, Douro (Poryugal) Reserva 2003
($18, Vineyard Brands): This Reserva is made from the same blend (Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca) as this producer’s regular bottling, but is thicker and bigger, tasting more of black, as opposed to red, cherries. It has suaveness and brightness that distinguishes it from many Douro table wines.… Read more
Wattle Creek, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Shiraz 2001
($28): It should come as no surprise that the Aussie owners of this property have great success with Shiraz, which is considered by many to be Australia’s national grape. Rich and warm — as one would expect from California Shiraz — it is also meaty, exotic and smooth.… Read more
Neil Ellis, Western Cape (South Africa) Shiraz “Sincerely” 2005
($13, Vineyard Brands): A leaner style of Shiraz than those typically produced in California or Australia, Ellis’s “Sincerely” still has plenty of ripeness and an appealing spicy complexity to complement its meaty elements. You can’t beat it at the price! 90 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2006… Read more
Castillo de Monseran, Carinena (Spain) Garnacha 2005
($6, Appellation Imports): I haven’t had a $6 wine I could recommend this enthusiastically in years. Yes, the label is confusing because Cariñena, the geographical applellation of the wine, is also the name of a grape, though not the grape from which this wine is made.… Read more
Castillo de Monseran, Carinena (Spain) Garnacha “Old Vine” 2004
($12, Appellation Imports): An upscale version of their regular Garnacha, the “Old Vine” selection is aged in oak barrels for six months. The judicious use of oak adds a creamy patina without overwhelming the attractive fruity spiciness. The lip-smacking cherry acidity keeps it lively throughout the meal.… Read more
Genesis by Hogue, Columbia Valley (Washington) 2002
($16): This Syrah emphasizes the thick black plum character of Syrah rather than the beefy style. The pure fruit character shines in this well-balanced, polished wine. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2006… Read more
Catalonia: Leading the Renaissance in Spain
Spain, a country with a long history of wine production, is seeing an unparalleled renaissance in its wines. In the past few years, Spain has leaped to primacy among wine producing countries in putting exciting new wines on the market.
In some respects, the current renaissance in Spain resembles the remarkable resurgence witnessed in Italy during the 1970s and 1980s.… Read more
Louis Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne: An Age-Worthy White Burgundy
Maison Louis Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne is the benchmark wine for that grand cru vineyard. Always tightly wound when young, its remarkable character opens and expands with years-even decades-of age.
The conventional wisdom holds that white wines don’t benefit from aging and often loses something, but this does not apply to most grand cru white Burgundies and certainly not to Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne.… Read more
Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône, France) 2003
($22, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): Guigal, arguably the Rhône’s best producer, has been making stellar wines from Côte Rôtie since the 1960s. His first vintage of Crozes Hermitage was 1999, just prior to his acquiring land in that part of the Northern Rhône.… Read more
Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône, France) Château dAmpuis 2001
($140, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): Guigal introduced this wine, a blend from six exceptionally well located parcels-three on the Côte Brune and three on the Côte Blonde-with the 1995 vintage. It’s meant to be a bridge between his regular Brune et Blonde and the single vineyards wines, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque.… Read more
J & F Lurton, Vin de Pays de Côtes du Tarn (France) Sauvignon Blanc “Les Fumées Blanches” 2005
($9, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): Jacques and François Lurton, sons of famed Bordeaux chateaux owner André Lurton, split from the family about 10 years ago to start their own projects, which involve making wines from around the world. Their 100% Sauvignon Blanc, Les Fumées Blanches, is always racy and balanced.… Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune Grèves (Burgundy, France) “Vigne de L’Enfant Jesus” 2002
($73, Henriot Inc.): This, Bouchard’s flagship wine from Beaune, rarely disappoints and often dazzles. The 2002 dazzles. Long and expansive, it is remarkably ‘big’ for a wine from Beaune, but has not lost any of its usual elegance or silkiness. 93 Michael Apstein Sep 19, 2006… Read more
Patrick LeSec, Vaqueyras (Rhone, France) Vielles Vignes 2003
($27, Patrick LeSec /Chemin des Vins): The Southern Rhone handled the heat of 2003 much better than most areas of France and, as a result, turned out some fabulous wines. This is one of them. Meaty and full-blown, it retains remarkable succulence and balance.… Read more
Domaine Trapet, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) Ostrea 2003
($53, Chemin des Vins/Patrick LeSec): The Ostrea vineyard, not a premier cru, is located on the north-Brochon-side of Gevrey and takes its name from the oyster shells found in the soil. Ripe and supple-but not hot as was all too frequently the case with 2003 Burgundies-Trapet’s village Gevrey-Chambertin has lovely balance and is delicious to drink now.… Read more
Château Recougne, Bordeaux Superiéur (Bordeaux, France) 2003
($13, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): Gamey flavors attractively complement the layers of ripe fruit elements in this balanced wine. The tannins are supple and symmetrical with the fruit, which means the wine is perfect for drinking now. The price makes it hard to resist.… Read more
Gran Feudo, Navarra (Spain) Reserva 2001
($15, Kobrand): Here is another great bargain from the family of Julián Chivite, a well-respected Spanish winemaker. The family owns this property in Navarra and another in Rioja. The Gran Feudo Reserva, a blend of 80% Tempranillo and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and merlot, has exquisite balance.… Read more
Pol Roger, Champagne (France) Rosé 1998
($80, Frederick Wildman): Moderately powerful and rich, this rosé is perfectly balanced and a delight to drink now. Flavors of strawberries and other red fruits fill the glass while sparkling acidity keeps the wine fresh. Its wonderfully soft and creamy texture brings you back for more.… Read more
Domaine St. Martin, Fixin (Burgundy, France) 1er Cru Les Hervelets 2004
($40, Chemin des Vins/Patrick LeSec): Perhaps the best wine from Fixin I’ve ever had, the 2004 from Domaine St. Martin has layers of flavors and length. Not marred by the hardness sometimes found in wines from this village, its pure fruit flavors are complemented by an engaging earthiness.… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaujolais-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2005
($12, Kobrand): Let me get straight to the point. Jadot’s 2005 Beaujolais-Villages is delicious and a great value. Buy it by the case. Forget what you’ve heard about Beaujolais being thin, watery stuff. This is the kind of Beaujolais that brought the world’s attention to that region.… Read more
Chateau Minuty, Cotes de Provence (France) “Cuvee Prestige” 2004
($30, Romano Brands): Château Minuty, one of the cru classé of the Côtes de Provence, is rightly known for its vibrant and stylish Rosé. But they make red wine, an easy drinking one and this, their Prestige bottling made entirely from Mourvedre.… Read more
Allan Scott, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2005
($16): It’s a shame that Allan Scott’s wines lack the visibility of many other New Zealand wineries, because his Sauvignon Blanc ranks with the best that region has to offer. The 2005 has real depth and an awakening grapefruit rind bite in the finish to match the quintessential electrifying acidity.… Read more
Ponzi, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay Reserve 2003
($28): This lush — but not fat — Chardonnay, has the requisite uplifting citric finish to balance the considerable fruity/mineral elements. It’s like drinking lemon cream pie. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2006… Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Arthur” 2004
($30): When Domaine Drouhin Oregon started in 1988, they focused on Pinot Noir, not making commercial quantities of their Chardonnay until the 1996 vintage. To my mind, their Chardonnay has gotten better every year. The 2004 is tightly wound and shows its true glory after some time in the glass.… Read more
Atlas Peak, Atlas Peak District (Napa Valley) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
($42): In my experience, it’s rare for a wine made from mountain grown fruit to have this kind of weight and elegance. But Atlas Peak’s winemaker, Darren Proscal, and its viticulturist, Tony Fernandez, Jr., have pulled it off with their 2003 Cabernet.… Read more
Concha y Toro, Maipo Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto “Don Melchor” 2003
($47, Excelsior): Concha y Toro, certainly one of Chile’s foremost wine producers, has modified the style of Don Melchor, their flagship Cabernet, ever so slightly over the years. The 2003 — just a touch riper and fleshier than past versions — retains the signature attractive earthy, herbal character of great Chilean Cabernet.… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2004
($17, Kobrand): One of Burgundy’s greatest producers, Maison Louis Jadot has fashioned a beautiful introduction to red Burgundy with this wine. Uncharacteristic for the French, who typically shun grape names, Jadot plasters “Pinot Noir” in large type across the label just in case you forgot that all red Burgundy comes from that grape.… Read more
Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Walker Bay (South Africa) Chardonnay 2004
($25, Vineyard Brands): Hamilton Russell consistently makes graceful Chardonnays, clearly some of the best from South Africa. The 2004 is beautifully proportioned, with alluring toastiness and minerality I associate with great white Burgundy. But check out the price! 92 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2006… Read more
Pazo de Senorans, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2005
($16, Polaner Selections): Minerality and herbal notes balance a refreshing edginess from the almost effervescent-like acidity. A lovely persistent finish completes the picture. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2006… Read more
Another French Paradox: Alsace Riesling
Everyone is familiar with the French Paradox: the French eat a diet rich in fat, but have a low rate of heart disease. Another French paradox is why Alsace Riesling is not more popular in the United States. By all rights, it should fly off the shelves.… Read more
L’Ecole No. 41, Walla Walla (Washington) Pepper Bridge Vineyard Red Blend “Apogee” 2003
($45): Marty Clubb makes two wines, Apogee and Perigee, meant to mirror each other as expressions of two of the best known vineyards in Walla Walla, Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills. The latter tends toward a feminine, floral brightness underlined by an earth core; the former is usually has much deeper structure and a darker fruit profile.… Read more
Houghton, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay-Verdelho 2005
($14, Houghton Wines): Houghton uses an alluring blend of two-thirds Chardonnay and one-third Verdelho to capture the virtues of each variety. The Verdelho adds an intriguing floral character while the Chardonnay provides stuffing–but, in the Western Australian tradition–without heaviness. A tangy finish keeps the wine interesting throughout a meal.… Read more
For Seafood, Spanish Winemakers Finally Getting It White
Spain has the largest per capita consumption of seafood – after Japan – according to David Parker, Export Manager of Castillo Perelada, one of Spain’s leading wineries. But when I think of Spanish wines, it is the great reds from that country – Rioja, Priorat, Ribera del Duero – that leap to mind.… Read more