($10, Icon Estates): This nicely proportioned wine delivers a winning combination of ripe black-fruit flavors and engaging earthiness robed with smooth, supple tannins. It’s hard to beat it at this price. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 19, 2006… Read more
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An American in Beaune
It’s dinnertime in Beaune, the capital of the Burgundy wine trade, and Ma Cuisine, an unpretentious bistro, is packed and bustling as usual. When the door opens and an American with a charming boyish grin enters, the locals greet him with enthusiasm.… Read more
Cuilleron, Vin des Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes (Rhône Valley, France) Syrah 2005
($18, Neal Rosenthal): Do not worry about all the fine print identifying the origin of this wine. Just remember it is Syrah made by Yves Cuilleron, one of the finest producers in the Rhône, where that grape is native. Its classy, peppery profile is a great example of how Syrah fares in cooler climates. … Read more
Grant Burge, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Barossa Vines” 2004
($12, Wilson Daniels): Despite all its ripeness and intensity, this big Barossa Shiraz is not ‘over the top.’ The supple combination of spice and black cherry flavors would make a nice match with short ribs now that winter is here. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2006… Read more
Fox Creek, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz Grenache 2004
($20, Vineyard Brands): This blend of 2/3rds Shiraz and 1/3 Grenache is big and bold, but there’s surprising elegance in this 14.5% alcohol wine. Not for the faint of heart, it would be a good choice for a hearty winter casserole.… Read more
Philip Shaw, Orange (South Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc “No. 19” 2005
($22, Cumulus Wines): Philip Shaw, one of Australia’s and the world’s great winemakers, has finally set off on his own. After being winemaker at Lindemans, Rosemount and Southcorp, he has finally established his own winery in Orange. I assumed his wines would be good, but I never expected this Sauvignon Blanc to have such a stunning combination of subtle creaminess and an invigorating bite.… Read more
Drylands, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($16, Franciscan Estate Selections): A classic example of racy Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region, the 2006 Drylands has attractive pungency and length that makes it a perfect choice for Asian spiced food. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2006… Read more
Chateau Mont Redon, Cotes du Rhone (France) 2004
($14, Kobrand): Château Mont-Redon is one of the finest producers of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Their Côtes du Rhône, made from a similar blend of grapes grown just outside of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape area, has a satisfying combination of spice and fruit with enough structure to make perfect with hearty winter fare.… Read more
Baron de Ley, Rioja () Reserva 2000
($20, Frederick Wildman): This succulent, easy-to-drink wine from Spain’s Rioja region is filled with cherry-like fruit, supple tannins, and a little spice imparted by aging in American oak casks. It shows why Rioja remains the most recognizable name in Spanish wines.… Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) 2005
($17, Dreyfus Ashby): Freshness and brightness are two hallmarks of Beaujolais and this one has them both. With plenty of fruitiness and a balancing acid edge, I could envision drinking lots of this wine with steak-frites. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 28, 2006… Read more
HdV Brings French Accent to Carneros
Here on the Eurocentric East Coast — remember we’re nearly as close to France as to California — I still am asked, albeit less frequently than two decades ago, whether America produces wines comparable to France. As my daughters would say, ‘Duh.’… Read more
Michel Torino, Cafayate Valley (Argentina) Malbec “Don David” 2005
($15, Frederick Wildman): It’s a toned down version of Malbec, probably as a result of the elevation of the vineyard-over 5,000 feet-where the grapes don’t become overripe. It’s more elegant than most Malbec, with ripe red-fruit flavors and good intensity without being over the top.… Read more
Cape Campbell, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2005
($16, Estate Wine Distributors): It seems like every day another Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough arrives on these shores. That’s good, because as a group they are uniformly high quality and rarely disappoint. Cape Campbell fits that mold nicely with its zesty, cutting, citric flavors that practically grab your tongue. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard Sophia 2004
($50, Kobrand): 
I usually find wine packaged in heavy, oversized bottles to be overpriced and disappointing-the 2000 Chateau Mouton Rothschild was a distinct exception. Here’s another exception. A blend of mostly Merlot with a little Cabernet Franc to lend complexity, Craggy Range’s 2004 Sophia is big and powerful, but not overdone. … Read more
Domaine de la Quilla, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) Sur Lie 2005
($12, Robert Kacher Selections): The most distinctive wines from Muscadet, a large area at the western end of the Loire River where it empties into the Atlantic Ocean, come from the Sèvre et Maine sub region. The Sur Lie designation means that the wine ages on the spent yeast lees for a brief period which adds complexity (and, most importantly, keeps the wine fresh because the yeast act as an antioxidant protecting the wine). … Read more
Blackstone Winery, California (United States) Zinfandel 2004
($9): I wish California produced more of these inexpensive, yet satisfying, wines. Thankfully not a palate scorching, 16% alcohol Zinfandel, Blackstone’s rendition has the spice associated with the grape without the burn. It lacks the panache of a small appellation since the purchased fruit came from all over California, but it’s a delightful ‘everyday’ wine.… Read more
Alamos, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec “Seleccion” 2005
($16, Billington Imports): Malbec, a grape from Bordeaux where it hangs on as a minor part of the traditional blend, has become the signature grape of Argentina. It typically produces a powerful-but sometimes, clunky wine. José Galante, the winemaker for Alamos (which is a second label of Catena-one of Argentina’s leading producers) has mastered the grape. … Read more
Castano, Yecla (Spain) “Solanera” 2003
($14, Eric Solomon Selections): Yecla, a small DO (Denominación de Origen or DO is comparable to France’s Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, or AOC) on Spain’s southeastern coast is well suited for the Monastrell grape (aka Mourvèdre) because it needs the Mediterranean sun to ripen. … Read more
Castell del Remei, Costers del Segre (Spain) “Gotim Bru” 2004
($11, Eric Solomon Selections): Castell del Remei judiciously blends Ull de Llebre-literally, the ‘hare’s eye’ and the local Catalan name for Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to make Gotim Bru. They avoid the pitfall of making an ‘international’ wine dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, instead delivering a unique, spicy, yet refined wine. … Read more
Spring Valley Vineyard, Walla Walla (Washington) “Uriah Red” 2003
($50): A brilliant blend of mostly Merlot (77%) and Cabernet Franc, it conveys an extraordinary balance of black fruit flavors and chocolate nuances wrapped in velvety tannins. 93 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2006… Read more
Covey Run, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet/Merlot 2003
($8): Consumers looking for a super-ripe wine should avoid this one. But those seeking a balanced combination of ripe cherries and slight earthiness will marvel at the complexity-and the price-of this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2006… Read more
Terres Dorées, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) l’Ancien Vieilles Vignes 2005
($15, Louis Dressner Selections): Jean-Paul Brun’s Terres Dorées label is a reliable sign of quality in Beaujolais. Too many Beaujolais are just grapey and simple. Not Terres Dorées. The 2005 l’Ancien Vieilles Vignes has an attractive layer of earthiness, even minerality, that I assume is the result of vieilles vignes (old vines)-to complement its inherent fruitiness. … Read more
Château de Campuget, Costières de Nîmes (Rhône Valley, France) “Tradition Rouge” 2004
($13, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The right (west) bank of France’s Rhône River has many undiscovered areas, including the Costières de Nîmes, a small area stretching between Nîmes and Arles. For Château de Campuget’s Tradition Rouge, the usual Mediterranean suspects-Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre-are blended to yield a wine that delivers a hefty dose of spice and intensity yet retains finesse.… Read more
Santa Rita, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($10, Palm Bay): Don’t miss this bargain-priced wine. The pungent nose identifies the wine as Sauvignon Blanc, but it has complexity that is rarely seen at this price. Stony nuances and balanced flavors make you think you are drinking a far more expensive wine.… Read more
Torremorón, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Tinto 2004
($10, Ole Imports): Torremorón, a cooperative in Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s priciest and most renowned wine districts, offers this attractive wine at a gorgeous price. An under-appreciated asset of cooperatives is most of the members are poor and have not been able to afford to replant their vines. … Read more
Hornillo Ballesteros, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Mibal Tinto 2005
($13, Ole Imports): Made exclusively from Tempranillo aged without benefit of oak barrels, the Mibal Tinto shows the incredible depth of fruit flavors interwoven with minerality that Tempranillo planted in the soils of Ribera del Duero can produce. Try it the next time you grill a steak.… Read more
Bodegas Vinos Pinol, Terra Alta (Spain) “Ludovicus Red ” 2005
($10, Ole Imports): Spain is leading the way in providing distinctive wines at bargain prices. This blend of Garnacha (aka Grenache), Tempranillo, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon provides plenty of fruit flavors without losing its sense of balance. Supple and spicy, it has more to it than you’d expect from the price.… Read more
Domaine Mouthes le Bihan, Côtes de Duras (Languedoc, Francs) “Vieillefont Rouge” 2004
($16, Louis Dressner Selections): The French — or at least some of them — are finally changing the way they market their wines. The crisp eye-catching front label simply says Vieillefont. The obscure AOC — Côtes de Duras — and even the producer’s name are relegated to the back label. … Read more
Eric Texier, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) Blanc 2004
($41, Louis Dressner Selections): 
You don’t often think of white Châteauneuf-du-Pape as light and airy, but that’s the style of wine Texier has made. It tastes of minerals, earth and a touch of apricot, but it’s elegant and, unlike many white wines from the southern Rhône, fresh and lacey.… Read more
Fernand Girard, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “La Garenne” 2005
($15, Louis Dressner Selections): This classic Sancerre delivers a balanced combination of minerals and herbs enlivened with refreshing acidity. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 31, 2006… Read more
Bethel Heights Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Estate” 2003
($27): Bethel Heights, known for their stunning Pinot Noir, also makes stylish Chardonnay. This 2003 Estate Chardonnay, made from their own grapes, has creaminess atop minerality. The additional bottle age-the 2003 is their current release-lends a gentle complexity. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 31, 2006… Read more
Bethel Heights Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Estate” 2004
($33): Although Bethel Heights focuses on bottling individual Pinot Noir from their distinct vineyards, their ‘Estate’ bottling-from a blend of vineyards-is always appealing and easier on the wallet. The 2004 rendition is a polished combination of red fruit mixed with earthy, smoky flavors.… Read more
Santa Rita, Maipo Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Medella Real” 2004
($19, Palm Bay): In this era of over-priced and over-wrought red wines, it’s a distinct pleasure to taste Santa Rita’s top of the line Cabernet Sauvignon, Medella Real. Ripe black fruit flavors coupled with nuances of mint, which identify this wine as coming from the Maipo Valley, are supported by fine tannins.… Read more
Château d’Oupia, Minervois (Languedoc, France) “Rouge Tradition” 2005
($11, Louis Dressner Selections): This juicy ‘everyday’ type of wine, a blend of Syrah and Carignan, has considerable ripeness nicely balanced by spice. It’s a great value. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 31, 2006… Read more
Santa Rita, Rapel Valley (Chile) Carmenère Reserva 2003
($12, Vineyard Brands): Until recently, the Carmenère grape was confused and harvested with Merlot in Chile. Like Merlot, Carmenère traces its origins to Bordeaux. Although it was once called “Chilean Merlot,” it ripens a week or two later than Merlot and when harvested with Merlot, it gives unripe, vegetal flavors.… Read more
Domaine des Remizieres, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhone Valley, France) “Cuvee Christophe” Rouge 2001
($33, Chemin des Vins): Philippe Desmure and his daughter Emilie are making fabulous wine at this estate. This 2001 — a fabulous vintage in the northern Rhone — is a heavyweight Crozes-Hermitage. Meaty, with supple tannins, it has traces of minerals and tar more often seen in Hermitage than Crozes-Hermitage.… Read more
El Quintanal, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Tempranillo 2005
($12, Fine Wine Imports): A small cooperative in Ribera del Duero hired Oscar Aragón, winemaker at the well-regarded Cillar de Silos winery, to manage the vineyard and oversee the production of this wine made exclusively from Tempranillo grapes. Rather intense with a healthy dose of minerality, as is fitting for wines from Ribera del Duero, it has unusual class for a wine of this price.… Read more
Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro, Ribera del Duero (Spain) “La Planta” Crianza 2003
($16, Fine Wine Imports): A blend of 95 percent Tinto Fino (aka Tempranillo) with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot making up the difference, Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro has managed to craft a delicious, yet well-priced, wine from Ribera del Duero, an area better known for the high priced spread.… Read more
Don’t Miss The 2004 White Burgundies
There is a good reason why fans of white Burgundy are smiling. Wines from the underrated 2004 vintage are now on retailers’ shelves, thankfully replacing the 2003 vintage.
Prices for the 2004 white Burgundies are steady or even lower than ’03, with no signs of upward movement. … Read more
Porcupine Ridge, Coastal Region (South Africa) Syrah 2005
($12, Vineyard Brands): Those consumers tired of overly alcoholic, flamboyant Californian or Australian Syrah should look to South Africa. Porcupine Ridge, produced by Boekenhoutskloof Winery, is a lovely mid-weight Syrah filled with beefy, spicy notes harmonizing with plenty of black fruit flavors.… Read more
Eric Texier, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) 2005
($45, Louis Dressner Selections): Trained as a nuclear engineer, Texier turned to winemaking. He worked in Burgundy and told me he tries to put ‘Burgundian sensibilities into Rhône wines.’ His 2005 Condrieu has the Burgundian character of incredible flavor without heaviness.… Read more
Rocky Gully, Frankland (Great Southern Region, Western Australia) Dry Riesling 2005
($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): I particularly love the Rieslings from Western Australia because they are unique. Neither flowery in the Germanic tradition nor powerful in the Alsace style, they have a lacey feel about them with a clean citric edge.… Read more
Rutherglen Estates, Rutherglen (Victoria, Australia) “The Alliance” 2005
($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Here is my vote for the best Rhône-style white wine produced outside of France. And it will give most Rhone Valley white wines a run for their money. Rutherglen’s Alliance, a marvelous blend of Marsanne and Viognier, has the hint of apricots often found in Rhone whites, but with a lightness that is often lacking in those wines.… Read more
Joseph, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot “Moda” 2002
($48, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Taking a cue from producers of Amarone (Moda refers to Moda Amarone), Joe Grilli, winemaker at Joseph, dries a small proportion of the grapes on straw mats before fermentation to add complexity to the finished wine.… Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Corton Grancey 1999
($70, Louis Latour, Inc): Corton Grancey is Latour’s flagship red wine made from their grapes grown in various Grand Cru vineyards on the Corton hill. The 1999 Corton Grancey is a stunning wine. Moreover, at seven years of age, it is delicious now.… Read more
Chanson Père et Fils, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Fèves 2002
($75, Paterno Wines International): Over the last decade, Chanson, one of the great names in Burgundy, has failed to deliver wines commensurate with the stature of its vineyards, especially since it owns tremendous sites-parts of ten 1er cru vineyards-in Beaune. That situation appears to be changing.… Read more
Anton Bauer, Donauland (Austria) Gruner Veltliner Gmork Vineyard 2005
($13): Anton Bauer, who took the reins of this family winery in 1992-at the ripe age of 20-is making wonderful white wines, including this one from his Gmork vineyard. Its lovely minerality, balanced by its bright and racy character, makes it best used with a meal as opposed to an aperitif.… Read more
Anton Bauer, Donauland (Austria) Riesling Berg Vineyard 2005
($18): Bauer has managed to combine an engaging fleshiness with a steely frame to fashion a thoroughly enjoyable and balanced Riesling that finishes without a trace of sweetness. Those who shun Riesling believing, erroneously, that it is always sweet, need to try this wine.… Read more
Gran Feudo, Navarra (Spain) Crianza 2002
($11, Kobrand): This is the Spanish equivalent of what I refer to in Italy as ‘pizza wine.’ It’s a well-constructed blend of mostly Tempranillo-for black fruit flavors-some Garnacha-for bright spice-and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon for structure. The grapes work well together, which makes this wine a good choice for take-out rotisserie chicken.… Read more
Wynns Coonawarra Estate, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
($16, PWG Vintners): Known simply as Wynns Black Label in Australia, their Cabernet Sauvignon delivers reliably every year. The 2002, with its herbal and mint nuances combined with attractive fleshiness, is no exception. Never, jammy or overblown, their Cabernet often develops beautifully with bottle aging as demonstrated by stellar examples from the 1970s, which are still delicious today.… Read more