($10, Ole Imports): Spain is leading the way in providing distinctive wines at bargain prices. This blend of Garnacha (aka Grenache), Tempranillo, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon provides plenty of fruit flavors without losing its sense of balance. Supple and spicy, it has more to it than you’d expect from the price.… Read more
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Domaine Mouthes le Bihan, Côtes de Duras (Languedoc, Francs) “Vieillefont Rouge” 2004
($16, Louis Dressner Selections): The French — or at least some of them — are finally changing the way they market their wines. The crisp eye-catching front label simply says Vieillefont. The obscure AOC — Côtes de Duras — and even the producer’s name are relegated to the back label. … Read more
Eric Texier, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) Blanc 2004
($41, Louis Dressner Selections): 
You don’t often think of white Châteauneuf-du-Pape as light and airy, but that’s the style of wine Texier has made. It tastes of minerals, earth and a touch of apricot, but it’s elegant and, unlike many white wines from the southern Rhône, fresh and lacey.… Read more
Fernand Girard, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “La Garenne” 2005
($15, Louis Dressner Selections): This classic Sancerre delivers a balanced combination of minerals and herbs enlivened with refreshing acidity. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 31, 2006… Read more
Bethel Heights Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Estate” 2003
($27): Bethel Heights, known for their stunning Pinot Noir, also makes stylish Chardonnay. This 2003 Estate Chardonnay, made from their own grapes, has creaminess atop minerality. The additional bottle age-the 2003 is their current release-lends a gentle complexity. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 31, 2006… Read more
Bethel Heights Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Estate” 2004
($33): Although Bethel Heights focuses on bottling individual Pinot Noir from their distinct vineyards, their ‘Estate’ bottling-from a blend of vineyards-is always appealing and easier on the wallet. The 2004 rendition is a polished combination of red fruit mixed with earthy, smoky flavors.… Read more
Santa Rita, Maipo Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Medella Real” 2004
($19, Palm Bay): In this era of over-priced and over-wrought red wines, it’s a distinct pleasure to taste Santa Rita’s top of the line Cabernet Sauvignon, Medella Real. Ripe black fruit flavors coupled with nuances of mint, which identify this wine as coming from the Maipo Valley, are supported by fine tannins.… Read more
Château d’Oupia, Minervois (Languedoc, France) “Rouge Tradition” 2005
($11, Louis Dressner Selections): This juicy ‘everyday’ type of wine, a blend of Syrah and Carignan, has considerable ripeness nicely balanced by spice. It’s a great value. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 31, 2006… Read more
Santa Rita, Rapel Valley (Chile) Carmenère Reserva 2003
($12, Vineyard Brands): Until recently, the Carmenère grape was confused and harvested with Merlot in Chile. Like Merlot, Carmenère traces its origins to Bordeaux. Although it was once called “Chilean Merlot,” it ripens a week or two later than Merlot and when harvested with Merlot, it gives unripe, vegetal flavors.… Read more
Domaine des Remizieres, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhone Valley, France) “Cuvee Christophe” Rouge 2001
($33, Chemin des Vins): Philippe Desmure and his daughter Emilie are making fabulous wine at this estate. This 2001 — a fabulous vintage in the northern Rhone — is a heavyweight Crozes-Hermitage. Meaty, with supple tannins, it has traces of minerals and tar more often seen in Hermitage than Crozes-Hermitage.… Read more
El Quintanal, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Tempranillo 2005
($12, Fine Wine Imports): A small cooperative in Ribera del Duero hired Oscar Aragón, winemaker at the well-regarded Cillar de Silos winery, to manage the vineyard and oversee the production of this wine made exclusively from Tempranillo grapes. Rather intense with a healthy dose of minerality, as is fitting for wines from Ribera del Duero, it has unusual class for a wine of this price.… Read more
Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro, Ribera del Duero (Spain) “La Planta” Crianza 2003
($16, Fine Wine Imports): A blend of 95 percent Tinto Fino (aka Tempranillo) with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot making up the difference, Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro has managed to craft a delicious, yet well-priced, wine from Ribera del Duero, an area better known for the high priced spread.… Read more
Don’t Miss The 2004 White Burgundies
There is a good reason why fans of white Burgundy are smiling. Wines from the underrated 2004 vintage are now on retailers’ shelves, thankfully replacing the 2003 vintage.
Prices for the 2004 white Burgundies are steady or even lower than ’03, with no signs of upward movement. … Read more
Porcupine Ridge, Coastal Region (South Africa) Syrah 2005
($12, Vineyard Brands): Those consumers tired of overly alcoholic, flamboyant Californian or Australian Syrah should look to South Africa. Porcupine Ridge, produced by Boekenhoutskloof Winery, is a lovely mid-weight Syrah filled with beefy, spicy notes harmonizing with plenty of black fruit flavors.… Read more
Eric Texier, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) 2005
($45, Louis Dressner Selections): Trained as a nuclear engineer, Texier turned to winemaking. He worked in Burgundy and told me he tries to put ‘Burgundian sensibilities into Rhône wines.’ His 2005 Condrieu has the Burgundian character of incredible flavor without heaviness.… Read more
Rocky Gully, Frankland (Great Southern Region, Western Australia) Dry Riesling 2005
($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): I particularly love the Rieslings from Western Australia because they are unique. Neither flowery in the Germanic tradition nor powerful in the Alsace style, they have a lacey feel about them with a clean citric edge.… Read more
Rutherglen Estates, Rutherglen (Victoria, Australia) “The Alliance” 2005
($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Here is my vote for the best Rhône-style white wine produced outside of France. And it will give most Rhone Valley white wines a run for their money. Rutherglen’s Alliance, a marvelous blend of Marsanne and Viognier, has the hint of apricots often found in Rhone whites, but with a lightness that is often lacking in those wines.… Read more
Joseph, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot “Moda” 2002
($48, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Taking a cue from producers of Amarone (Moda refers to Moda Amarone), Joe Grilli, winemaker at Joseph, dries a small proportion of the grapes on straw mats before fermentation to add complexity to the finished wine.… Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Corton Grancey 1999
($70, Louis Latour, Inc): Corton Grancey is Latour’s flagship red wine made from their grapes grown in various Grand Cru vineyards on the Corton hill. The 1999 Corton Grancey is a stunning wine. Moreover, at seven years of age, it is delicious now.… Read more
Chanson Père et Fils, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Fèves 2002
($75, Paterno Wines International): Over the last decade, Chanson, one of the great names in Burgundy, has failed to deliver wines commensurate with the stature of its vineyards, especially since it owns tremendous sites-parts of ten 1er cru vineyards-in Beaune. That situation appears to be changing.… Read more
Anton Bauer, Donauland (Austria) Gruner Veltliner Gmork Vineyard 2005
($13): Anton Bauer, who took the reins of this family winery in 1992-at the ripe age of 20-is making wonderful white wines, including this one from his Gmork vineyard. Its lovely minerality, balanced by its bright and racy character, makes it best used with a meal as opposed to an aperitif.… Read more
Anton Bauer, Donauland (Austria) Riesling Berg Vineyard 2005
($18): Bauer has managed to combine an engaging fleshiness with a steely frame to fashion a thoroughly enjoyable and balanced Riesling that finishes without a trace of sweetness. Those who shun Riesling believing, erroneously, that it is always sweet, need to try this wine.… Read more
Gran Feudo, Navarra (Spain) Crianza 2002
($11, Kobrand): This is the Spanish equivalent of what I refer to in Italy as ‘pizza wine.’ It’s a well-constructed blend of mostly Tempranillo-for black fruit flavors-some Garnacha-for bright spice-and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon for structure. The grapes work well together, which makes this wine a good choice for take-out rotisserie chicken.… Read more
Wynns Coonawarra Estate, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
($16, PWG Vintners): Known simply as Wynns Black Label in Australia, their Cabernet Sauvignon delivers reliably every year. The 2002, with its herbal and mint nuances combined with attractive fleshiness, is no exception. Never, jammy or overblown, their Cabernet often develops beautifully with bottle aging as demonstrated by stellar examples from the 1970s, which are still delicious today.… Read more
Craggy Range Winery, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Chardonnay Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Les Beaux Cailloux” 2004
($60, Kobrand): This wine, Craggy Range’s single vineyard Chardonnay, is an elegant expression of the grape. In addition to its creamy, grapefruit flavors, it has real finesse as opposed to the obviousness that is all-too-common in the market today. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006… Read more
Sipp Mack, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2004
($13): Clean and brisk, with more intensity than many Pinot Blancs, Sipp Mack’s is a great value. You could drink it as an aperitif and then carry it to the table for a first course. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006
Sipp Mack, Alsace (France) Riesling Vieilles Vignes 2002
($19): A dry style of Riesling, Sipp Mack’s Vieilles Vignes conveys minerality throughout its considerable length. With plenty of power, it will hold up nicely with spicy Asian fare. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006
Rodney Strong Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Symmetry” 2001
($55): A typical Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, Rodney Strong’s 2001 Symmetry is a classy wine. Not overdone, the winemaker has ‘turned down the volume,’ allowing the layers of earth and mineral-like flavors to come through nicely.… Read more
The Wolf Trap, Western Cape (South Africa) 2005
($12, Vineyard Brands): A lovely blend of Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvedre and Viognier, The Wolf Trap is a well-balanced wine delivering layers of flavors, earth, smoke, black fruit and a little spice. Once you notice the producer’s name, Boekenhoutskloof, you understand why they emphasize the brand name on the label.… Read more
Krug, Champagne (France) Brut 1995
($250, Moet Hennessy USA): Krug ages their vintage Champagne and waits to release it until they feel it is ready to drink. Hence, the 1995 is their current release. (They released their awesome 1990 vintage Champagne only a few years ago).… Read more
Loma Gorda, Almansa (Spain) 2004
($12, Grapes of Spain): Leave it to Aurelio Cabestrero, owner of Grapes of Spain, to find an inexpensive delicious wine from the virtually unknown Denominación de Origen (DO) of Almansa, southwest of Valencia, not far from the Mediterranean. Made by a cooperative, the wine is 2/3 Garnacha, 1/3 Syrah and 100% enjoyable.… Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2004
($22, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): This stylish wine, from a village just north of Beaune, delivers quintessential Burgundian character at a reasonable-for Burgundy-price. Remarkably long, with the hint of earthiness that screams ‘Burgundy,’ it reminds us that good producers, such as Drouhin, make satisfying wines even in what the French call, ‘difficult years.’… Read more
Altano, Douro (Poryugal) Reserva 2003
($18, Vineyard Brands): This Reserva is made from the same blend (Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca) as this producer’s regular bottling, but is thicker and bigger, tasting more of black, as opposed to red, cherries. It has suaveness and brightness that distinguishes it from many Douro table wines.… Read more
Wattle Creek, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Shiraz 2001
($28): It should come as no surprise that the Aussie owners of this property have great success with Shiraz, which is considered by many to be Australia’s national grape. Rich and warm — as one would expect from California Shiraz — it is also meaty, exotic and smooth.… Read more
Neil Ellis, Western Cape (South Africa) Shiraz “Sincerely” 2005
($13, Vineyard Brands): A leaner style of Shiraz than those typically produced in California or Australia, Ellis’s “Sincerely” still has plenty of ripeness and an appealing spicy complexity to complement its meaty elements. You can’t beat it at the price! 90 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2006… Read more
Castillo de Monseran, Carinena (Spain) Garnacha 2005
($6, Appellation Imports): I haven’t had a $6 wine I could recommend this enthusiastically in years. Yes, the label is confusing because Cariñena, the geographical applellation of the wine, is also the name of a grape, though not the grape from which this wine is made.… Read more
Castillo de Monseran, Carinena (Spain) Garnacha “Old Vine” 2004
($12, Appellation Imports): An upscale version of their regular Garnacha, the “Old Vine” selection is aged in oak barrels for six months. The judicious use of oak adds a creamy patina without overwhelming the attractive fruity spiciness. The lip-smacking cherry acidity keeps it lively throughout the meal.… Read more
Genesis by Hogue, Columbia Valley (Washington) 2002
($16): This Syrah emphasizes the thick black plum character of Syrah rather than the beefy style. The pure fruit character shines in this well-balanced, polished wine. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2006… Read more
Catalonia: Leading the Renaissance in Spain
Spain, a country with a long history of wine production, is seeing an unparalleled renaissance in its wines. In the past few years, Spain has leaped to primacy among wine producing countries in putting exciting new wines on the market.
In some respects, the current renaissance in Spain resembles the remarkable resurgence witnessed in Italy during the 1970s and 1980s.… Read more
Louis Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne: An Age-Worthy White Burgundy
Maison Louis Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne is the benchmark wine for that grand cru vineyard. Always tightly wound when young, its remarkable character opens and expands with years-even decades-of age.
The conventional wisdom holds that white wines don’t benefit from aging and often loses something, but this does not apply to most grand cru white Burgundies and certainly not to Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne.… Read more
Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône, France) 2003
($22, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): Guigal, arguably the Rhône’s best producer, has been making stellar wines from Côte Rôtie since the 1960s. His first vintage of Crozes Hermitage was 1999, just prior to his acquiring land in that part of the Northern Rhône.… Read more
Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône, France) Château dAmpuis 2001
($140, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): Guigal introduced this wine, a blend from six exceptionally well located parcels-three on the Côte Brune and three on the Côte Blonde-with the 1995 vintage. It’s meant to be a bridge between his regular Brune et Blonde and the single vineyards wines, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque.… Read more
J & F Lurton, Vin de Pays de Côtes du Tarn (France) Sauvignon Blanc “Les Fumées Blanches” 2005
($9, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): Jacques and François Lurton, sons of famed Bordeaux chateaux owner André Lurton, split from the family about 10 years ago to start their own projects, which involve making wines from around the world. Their 100% Sauvignon Blanc, Les Fumées Blanches, is always racy and balanced.… Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune Grèves (Burgundy, France) “Vigne de L’Enfant Jesus” 2002
($73, Henriot Inc.): This, Bouchard’s flagship wine from Beaune, rarely disappoints and often dazzles. The 2002 dazzles. Long and expansive, it is remarkably ‘big’ for a wine from Beaune, but has not lost any of its usual elegance or silkiness. 93 Michael Apstein Sep 19, 2006… Read more
Patrick LeSec, Vaqueyras (Rhone, France) Vielles Vignes 2003
($27, Patrick LeSec /Chemin des Vins): The Southern Rhone handled the heat of 2003 much better than most areas of France and, as a result, turned out some fabulous wines. This is one of them. Meaty and full-blown, it retains remarkable succulence and balance.… Read more
Domaine Trapet, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) Ostrea 2003
($53, Chemin des Vins/Patrick LeSec): The Ostrea vineyard, not a premier cru, is located on the north-Brochon-side of Gevrey and takes its name from the oyster shells found in the soil. Ripe and supple-but not hot as was all too frequently the case with 2003 Burgundies-Trapet’s village Gevrey-Chambertin has lovely balance and is delicious to drink now.… Read more
Château Recougne, Bordeaux Superiéur (Bordeaux, France) 2003
($13, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): Gamey flavors attractively complement the layers of ripe fruit elements in this balanced wine. The tannins are supple and symmetrical with the fruit, which means the wine is perfect for drinking now. The price makes it hard to resist.… Read more
Gran Feudo, Navarra (Spain) Reserva 2001
($15, Kobrand): Here is another great bargain from the family of Julián Chivite, a well-respected Spanish winemaker. The family owns this property in Navarra and another in Rioja. The Gran Feudo Reserva, a blend of 80% Tempranillo and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and merlot, has exquisite balance.… Read more
Pol Roger, Champagne (France) Rosé 1998
($80, Frederick Wildman): Moderately powerful and rich, this rosé is perfectly balanced and a delight to drink now. Flavors of strawberries and other red fruits fill the glass while sparkling acidity keeps the wine fresh. Its wonderfully soft and creamy texture brings you back for more.… Read more
Domaine St. Martin, Fixin (Burgundy, France) 1er Cru Les Hervelets 2004
($40, Chemin des Vins/Patrick LeSec): Perhaps the best wine from Fixin I’ve ever had, the 2004 from Domaine St. Martin has layers of flavors and length. Not marred by the hardness sometimes found in wines from this village, its pure fruit flavors are complemented by an engaging earthiness.… Read more