With the current economic downturn forcing people to cut back at all levels, perhaps it’s foolhardy to suggest that now is the time to start a wine cellar. But paradoxically, now is a perfect time.
I’m not suggesting investing $10,000 or more in beautifully stained wooden racks, recessed lighting and an insulated, temperature-controlled room.… Read more
($10): Boekenhoutskloof, one of South Africa’s star producers, acts as a négociant–they buy young wine from others and then blend and age it–for this bargain-priced delight. Aromatic from Viognier, it conveys fresh fruit, a hint of bacon fat and gamey flavors–Syrah and Mourvédre speaking–that give it remarkable complexity for the price.… Read more
($30, Pasternak Wine Imports): Hawke’s Bay, a relatively warmer area on New Zealand’s North 
Island, is making a name for itself as a place for high quality red grapes. This hodge-podge blend of Merlot (32%), Cabernet Franc (25%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), Syrah (12%) and Malbec (10%) actually works. … Read more
($11, Vineyard Brands): The Porcupine Ridge label from Boekenhoutskloof, a consistently good South African producer, is a reliable source of inexpensive wines. This tightly-wound Sauvignon Blanc has a distinctly grassy nose and more flavor in the mid-palate than most comparably priced wines made from this grape. … Read more
($50): Although this concentrated style of Cabernet emphasizes ripe primary fruit, it is not overdone or over-extracted. Mellow tannins complement the sweet succulent fruit. At this stage, it lacks complexity, but since it is balanced, additional flavors will likely emerge over time, so there’s rush. … Read more
($10, Vineyard Brands): 
Boekenhoutskloof opts–for obvious reasons–for easier to pronounce names, such as Porcupine Ridge, for its more popularly-priced wines. This Cabernet has ripeness and weight that borders on over-ripeness, but freshness imparted by lively acid in the finish holds the wine together. … Read more
($38, Hess Imports): Although best known for Shiraz, the Barossa is an excellent site for Cabernet Sauvignon as well. The very ripe fruit notes border on pruney, but the overall flavor profile is quite broad, with hints of cedar and smoke. … Read more
($55, Hess Imports): A deep, dark Shiraz with plenty of power, Lehmann’s Eight Songs bottling has supple tannins. The 14.5% alcohol is not out of place here because of the ripe, concentrated black fruit elements. Emphasizing the juicy plummy side of Shiraz rather than the spice, this wine has remarkable smoothness and will appeal to those who value intensity over elegance.… Read more
($75, Hess Imports): 
This, Peter Lehmann’s top end Shiraz, is a remarkable example of Barossa Shiraz at its best. Concentrated and intense as expected given the origin, it’s the vibrancy and layers of flavors–black cherry, mint and other herbs–that make it notable. … Read more
“You have a finite number of meals in your life, so don’t waste one.” This is a guiding principle for me, as I take food very seriously. However, finding satisfying restaurants when traveling to unfamiliar cities can be a challenge, especially if the wine list plays an important role in your choice. … Read more
($135, Brown Forman): All wines from the Hospices de Beaune are made by the Hospices’ winemaker and then sold to a firm, such as Michel Picard in this case, which finishes the aging, known as élevage. (The name of the firm performing the élevage appears at the bottom of the label). … Read more
($22): Cadaretta, founded only in 2005 (they’re just planting their first vineyards this year) is, judging from this wine, a welcome addition to the Washington wine industry. Taking a cue from the Australians who name the wine and describe the blend by using initials, Cadaretta combines Sauvignon Blanc (75%) and Semillon to make this bright and zesty wine. … Read more
($18): Dr. Frank succeeds with Riesling that retains a dollop of residual sugar because sufficient acidity keeps it fresh, not cloying. It may lack the engaging minerality and length of Frank’s Dry Riesling, but it is an excellent choice for spicy Asian fare, where a touch of sweetness is welcome to cut the bite of the food. … Read more
($23): Although the Finger Lakes region of New York is known for stunning Riesling, this Pinot Gris shows the potential for that varietal in the region as well. Bone dry, with nuances of spiced pear and good density, it is clearly a Pinot Gris–not a Pinot Grigio–style of wine and a very good one at that. … Read more
($28): The problem for consumers with Gewurztraminer, like Riesling, is the unknown and unpredictable level of sweetness. Dr. Frank’s is a gorgeous example of dry Gewurztraminer that highlights the spice of the varietal. Its prominent perfume suggests sweetness, but instead the wine delivers nuances of lychee nuts and spiced pears and finishes clean and dry. … Read more
($40, Cognac One): Ayala takes its name from the family of Spanish aristocrats, one of 
whom founded the firm, and not the town, Aÿ, in which it is based. What it does take from that town, renowned for its Pinot Noir, is a healthy amount of that variety–45%–in the blend. … Read more
($26): With about 30 year-old vines, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Cold Creek estate vineyard is one of the oldest in Washington State, which explains the depth and complexity of this wine. Long and broad, this is a serious Merlot, with intriguing smoky and gamey qualities. … Read more
($18): A blend of 94% Syrah with the remainder comprised of Grenache, this wine speaks to the plummy, ripe style of Syrah as opposed to the peppery, spicy style that grape can also exhibit. It’s thick and rich without being heavy-weighing in at ‘only’ 13% alcohol–thanks to lively, blackberry-like acidity. … Read more
($55, Bluewater Wine Company): Howard Park’s most upscale bottling of Cabernet comes from a broad geographic area–Western Australia–as opposed to the smaller Margaret River or Great Southern appellation. It reflects a desire to blend the best batches regardless of origin. The combine the multifaceted character of Cabernet–cassis-like fruit and herbal, non-fruit flavors–harmoniously in this elegant and silky wine. … Read more
($27, Bluewater Wine Company): A more restrained style of Shiraz than the norm, this one from the Margaret River area marries herbal–even slightly minty–elements with plum-like flavors. It delivers an alluring breadth of flavors over pure power. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008
($25, Bluewater Wine Company): This wine demonstrates the class and breeding of Margaret River Cabernets. A subtle hint of mint and touches of licorice lend an exotic edge. Plush and juicy, it not just fruit-filled, but has wonderful balance and great complexity.… Read more
($25, Bluewater Wine Company): Similar to Howard Park’s Scottsdale Shiraz, this Cabernet focuses on the ripe fruit character of Cabernet–ripe plum and blackberry–as opposed to the its savory side. Its velvety, plush texture makes it very appealing now. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008
($27): Howard Park, one of the top producers in Western Australia, bottles two different Shiraz releases, this one from the Great Southern Region, and one from Margaret River, that show the diversity of wines coming from Western Australia. This rendition emphasizes the plumy, almost jammy, side of Shiraz. … Read more
($50): Since its establishment three decades ago, Jordan has always been rightly known for its elegantly proportional Cabernets. The 2004 vintage is no exception. The dark fruit flavors have a curious combination of depth and delicacy. An elusive hint of cigar box-like smokiness adds intrigue, while fine tannins support the entire package.… Read more
($60, Maisons, Marques and Domaines): Marqués de Murrieta retains a small portion of their Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva for extended barrel aging. Bottled in 1998, this wine spent roughly 18 years–give or take a few months–in barrel. But since the interior of the barrel develops a thick layer of rock hard tartrate crystals over the years, it’s more like aging in a giant bottle. … Read more
($25): This powerhouse Malbec comes from the highest vineyards in the 
world–7,200 to 9,900 feet above sea level in the Salta province of the northern Argentine Andes, according to Donald Hess, owner of California’s Hess Estate and other properties, including this one, around the world. … Read more
($22): The Canoe Ridge Estate, located in eastern Washington and planted in 1991, rests on a steep slope overlooking the Columbia Valley. While the vines are not ‘old,’ they have certainly settled in and account for some of the character found in this wine. … Read more
($28): The comparison of this Cabernet with its stablemate–the Canoe 
Ridge Merlot–supports my prejudice that Cabernet usually makes more interesting wines. Layered and complex, the tannins support ripe cassis and black cherry-like fruit. Thankfully, not an ‘over-the-top’ blockbuster wine, it has exquisite balance while conveying plenty of flavor.… Read more
($96, VOS Selections): In addition to his excellent village Gevrey-Chambertin, Dupont-Tisserandot made a stellar group of wines from that village’s premier and grand cru sites in 2006. The signature–elegance and finesse, not raw power–is the same, but this Les Cazetiers has more of everything, reflecting the stature of the vineyard. … Read more
($55, VOS Selections): 
Village wines, caught between entry level regional Bourgogne or Côtes de Nuits Villages and the sought-after premier and grand crus, are often overlooked–even scorned–by Burgundy drinkers. Don’t overlook this one. It leads with a subtly floral nose and then grabs you with an elegant combination of spice, leather and earth. … Read more
($18): The Finger Lakes region of New York State produce this country’s best Rieslings and Dr. Frank is one of the region’s leading producers. Truly dry with about only 0.8 percent of residual sugar and bracing acidity, it has flinty minerality and real length and depth of flavor.… Read more
($20): Rkatsiteli, a grape native to the Caucasus Mountains of Georgia and widely planted in Eastern Europe and the former Soviet Union, has naturally very high acidity and is often used for sweet wines. Although Dr. Frank’s version has 7.5 grams of residual sugar, it finishes bone dry, with an almost bitter almond note. … Read more
($96, VOS Selections): This premier cru comes across a little coarser than his Les Cazetiers and shows Burgundy’s earthier side. Although not as refined, it conveys a charming rusticity. It would be a good choice for more robust fare. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 8, 2008… Read more
($72, VOS Selections): Clos de la Vigne au Saint, one of the many Corton Grand Cru, is well- known as a flagship of Maison Louis Latour’s reds because they are practically the sole owner of the vineyard and consistently make a marvelous wine from it. … Read more
($150, VOS Selections): Although located in Santenay in the Cote de Beaune, Belland owns a small portion–less than an acre–of the grand cru vineyard, Chambertin. His 2005 has the earthy and leathery notes atop red and black fruit flavors that make Chambertin so alluring. … Read more
We’ve all heard–and probably muttered–aphorisms to explain the disappointment after opening and tasting what was supposed to be a “great wine.” The most common explanation is “bottle variation,” as in, “I had a great bottle of that wine only last week,” or ‘the last bottle of that wine showed much better than this one.”… Read more
($66, Maisons, Marques and Domaines): Roederer has achieved great success with its 2002 vintage Brut. Quite toasty and powerful, it nonetheless retains grace and finesse. Beautifully balanced, the biscuity, creamy elements extend into the lengthy finish. Although luscious to drink now, the supporting acidity suggests this Champagne will age and improve.… Read more
($32, Maison Marques and Domaines): Although the vast majority of wines from Rioja are red, there are also white wines, most of which were dismissed by many in the past because of an oxidative character. Marqués de Murrieta’s, made entirely from Viura, is fresh and plush with an engaging, creamy, stone fruit character.… Read more
($174, Maison Marques and Domaines): I am thrilled to see this traditional firm making this modern style of Rioja because it means they have no intention of changing the character of their classic Rioja. Although Tempranillo is still the dominant grape (86%)–Cabernet Sauvignon comprises about 8% of the blend and Graciano makes up the rest–it has no resemblance to their regular Rioja Reserva. … Read more
($26, Maison Marques and Domaines): Although mostly Tempranillo, this traditional–American oak aged–Rioja, has a little Garnacha and Manzuelo included in the blend, which I think helps account for the wine’s alluring complexity. The producer purposely avoids the new trend in Rioja of more ripeness and new oak aging in this bottling (they have introduced another bottling to satisfy that side of the market), focusing in this case on harmony. … Read more
($54, Maison Marques and Domaines): The Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva, the flagship wine of the Marqués 
de Murrieta estate, is produced in only great vintages–the 2000 is the fifth since 1978–and entirely from the bodega’s own grapes. A blend of exclusively Tempranillo and Manzuelo (Garnacha and Graciano have been included in other vintages), the wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks and then aged in American oak barrels for approximately three years. … Read more
($55, Vintage ’59 Imports): Soutiran, a small grower located in Ambonnay, a Grand Cru village 
known for Pinot Noir, makes a stunning and powerful non-vintage Brut from the roughly 50 acres he owns or farms there for other family members. Part of its complexity comes from Soutiran’s practice of aging his reserve wines in barrel as opposed to the more usual practice of using stainless steel tanks. … Read more
($28): 
Truchard had fallen off my screen, but this Merlot–along with their Zinfandel and Chardonnay–reminded me that they make stylish wines. Truchard avoids the solo note of bright ripe fruit flavors by incorporating alluring herbal, leafy and earthy elements into this serious Merlot. … Read more
($8): One of the many Gallo labels, this straightforward–but good–wine challenges the proposition advanced by Michael Franz, my colleague at WRO, that California fails to produce many good inexpensive wines. At a minimum, it is one wine that can be chalked up as a win for California. … Read more
($25): Carneros has the reputation as an area for producing fine Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Merlot. After tasting this wine, perhaps Zinfandel should be added to the list. But then again, it’s not your typical Zinfandel. It certainly has the slightly jammy, distinctly grapey flavors mixed with spice characteristic of the variety. … Read more
($26, Wildman): 
It seems that as Sancerre continues to grow in popularity, more of them reflect the varietal, Sauvignon Blanc, than the chalky minerality for which the appellation is rightly known. Thankfully, Jolivet manages to capture the uniqueness of the area with this wine’s mélange of herbaceous pungency underpinned by the classical chalkiness that defines Sancerre. … Read more
No person has had as great an influence on California wine–and how the world viewed it–as Robert Mondavi. Andre Tchelistcheff, Beaulieu Vineyards’ legendary winemaker from 1938 to 1968, made great Cabernet Sauvignon–and less well realized, but no less great–Pinot Noir. Ernest and Julio Gallo sold more California wine (and their company still does) than anyone else. … Read more
($12, Schwartz Olcott Imports): I didn’t care for the 2005 versions of any of the wines sold under 
the Oops label. And although I still don’t care for the name, the wines are definitely more interesting and worth a recommendation. The Carménère, which is two-thirds of the blend, brings nuances of earthiness to the bright prominent cherry fruit flavors.… Read more
($30, Scott Street Portfolio): This is a good example of Cabernet from the Margaret River area of Western Australia, a region known for producing more elegantly styled wines than the remainder of that continent. A touch of mint and other herbal notes acts as an attractive condiment to the juicy fruit flavors, rather than overpowering them.… Read more
($8): Part of the Gallo empire, the Redwood Creek Cabernet is an excellent value. Ripe–but not sweet–mid weight red fruit flavors dominate and are balanced by a hint of supple tannins. It’s a simple everyday Cabernet at the right price. 84 Michael Apstein May 27, 2008… Read more