($15): Château Ste. Michelle, one of Washington’s best producers, has fashioned a unique Chardonnay that reflects the cooler climate of the Columbia Valley. Green apple nuances, rather than tropical fruit flavors, blend nicely with a subtle toastiness, making this a more restrained style of Chardonnay. … Read more
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Blackstone Winery, California (United States) Merlot 2006
($12): This friendly wine has the plush ripe forward fruit character that has made Merlot so popular. But, in addition, it conveys nuances of an earthy leafiness that add more complexity than you’d expect at the price. 86 Michael Apstein Apr 22, 2008… Read more
De Martino, Maipo Valley (Chile) Cabernet-Malbec 2006
($15, Global Vineyard Importers): This tasty wine (a 55/45% blend) offers dark color and impressive density, but with balanced ripeness that keeps it from seeming chunky or overbearing. The fruit shows very attractive notes of blackberry and black plum, with fine integration of fruit and tannin. … Read more
Trivento, Mendoza (Argentina) Torrontes 2007
($11, Banfi Imports): Originally a Spanish grape found in Galicia, Torrontes is very popular 
in Argentina. This is a deceptive wine. The wonderfully floral element–almost Muscat-like–tricks you into thinking what follows will be sweet. But it’s not. Dry, bright and brisk, the aromatics continue into the finish continuing the paradox.… Read more
Kim Crawford, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2007
($17, Icon Estates): 
This wine helps New Zealand shake the image that it only produces one wine, Sauvignon Blanc. Kim Crawford, one of Marlborough top producers, combines an engaging creaminess with a dollop of pear and stone fruit flavors buttressed by vibrant acidity. … Read more
Kendall-Jackson, California (United States) Merlot “Vintner’s Reserve” 2005
($19): Year in and year out, KJ does it. Blending wine from grapes grown in Mendocino, Napa and Sonoma Counties, Kendall-Jackson walks the line between a sipping ‘aperitif’ Merlot and one with sufficient structure and stuffing to accompany food. Accessible, upfront, cherry-like fruit makes it easy to drink a glass before dinner, but richness and good weight buttressed by supple tannins and good acidity makes it a fine choice with a meal.… Read more
Let’s Copy the French
If imitation is the greatest form of flattery, then we should flatter the French. Not by copying their wines, but by copying how to show them to the public.
Those who know me or have read my columns know that I love French wines, especially Burgundy.… Read more
Bouchard Pere & Fils, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Mousse 2006
($66, Henriot): Clos de la Mousse, a premier cru vineyard, lies smack in the middle of Beaune. Bouchard owns all of this 8.5-acre vineyard, a rarity in Burgundy where most of the vineyards are split among multiple owners. Very aromatic, this moderate weight wine has captivating cherry-like flavors and good length. … Read more
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (California) “Crimson Topaz” Meritage 2005
($18): Clos LaChance has chosen the hummingbird as their symbol, which explains why many of their wines, such as Crimson Topaz, carry their names. This artful blend of primarily Merlot (63%), Cabernet Sauvignon (17%), Cabernet Franc (11%)–the remainder is Malbec and Petit Verdot–delivers grace and finesse. … Read more
Ponzi, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Blanc 2006
($18): Pinot Blanc can often be hollow and innocuous. Ponzi’s is neither. Concentrated and weighty–at least for Pinot Blanc–it has a lovely texture and nuances of pears. Bright and balanced, it is a terrific aperitif wine that has enough stuffing to stand up to light first courses or simple sautéed white fish.… Read more
Ponzi, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2006
($18): Although Pinot Noir has become Oregon’s signature wine, you’d be mistaken if you overlooked the state’s white wines. Ponzi, still a family-run winery, was among the first to plant Pinot Gris commercially in the Willamette Valley in 1978. The decision to perform the fermentation and aging entirely in stainless steel tanks allows the wine’s spiced pear character to shine. … Read more
Ponzi, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay Reserve 2005
($35): Ponzi’s non-reserve Chardonnay is sold only at the winery or via the website, so this one is the only one consumers will see in 
restaurants or in retail stores. But when you see it, grab it. Restrained–more in the ‘Burgundian’ rather than ‘California’ style of Chardonnay–Ponzi made a creamy and complex wine with nuances of minerality that should not be missed. … Read more
Ponzi, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Reserve 2005
($60): A great example of Pinot Noir, Ponzi’s Reserve delivers incredible intensity and weight without being heavy or overdone. As with their Reserve Chardonnay, Ponzi draws on a small amount of purchased fruit for this stylish wine that is filled with ripe spicy red and black fruit flavors complemented by a touch of earthiness.… Read more
Wine Pricing: Still Economics 101
I have ongoing discussions regarding wine pricing with Michael Franz, my friend and colleague here at WRO. He believes that part of his responsibility as a critic is to consider whether the price of a bottle of wine bears a reasonable relation to its cost of production. … Read more
The Spanish Quarter, Costers del Segre (Catalonia, Spain) Chardonnay/Albarino 2006
($12, Codorniu USA): Codorniu, best known for their excellent Cava, also produces a range of still wines. The Spanish Quarter label, their latest entry into the market, is meant to be an ‘easy to drink’ wine either as an aperitif or with food. … Read more
The Spanish Quarter, Costers del Segre (Catalonia, Spain) Cabernet Sauvignon/Tempranillo 2006
($12, Codorniu USA): Olivia Salas, the energetic young winemaker for The Spanish Quarter wines, blends Spain’s signature grape, Tempranillo, with Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) to achieve this soft, ‘easy to drink’ red. Despite the seeming large proportion of Cabernet, it doesn’t dominate or mask the brightness imparted by Tempranillo.… Read more
Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2006
($20, Vineyard Brands): Neil Ellis is one of South Africa’s star producers. He makes at least two different Chardonnays, this one from the Stellenbosch region and one from Elgin. This one is the richer and more overt of the two and will appeal to those who like a little more muscle in their Chardonnay. … Read more
Neil Ellis, South Africa (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc “Sincerely” 2007
($14, Vineyard Brands): A multi-region blend, Ellis’s Sincerely is a lively expression of Sauvignon Blanc. While not quite as electrifying as the ones from Marlborough, New Zealand, it conveys plenty of energy and pure citric character enhanced with nuances of fresh herbs.… Read more
Neil Ellis, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2006
($27, Vineyard Brands): Elgin is one of the cooler areas in South Africa and consequently this Chardonnay is less ripe, more tightly wound and restrained compared to Ellis’s Stellenbosch bottling. There are more lemon rather than melon notes here. His two Chardonnays tasted side-by-side are an instructive comparison and show that the French don’t have a monopoly on terroir.… Read more
Jaboulet, Beaumes-de-Venise (Rhône Valley, France) “Le Paradou” 2005
($22, Wildman): Jaboulet, one of the premier producers in the Rhône, makes noteworthy wines from a multiple of areas within the region. Beaumes-de-Venise, a small village traditionally known more for its sweet wines than for its robust reds, had been lumped with other villages that comprised Côtes du Rhône for its red wines. … Read more
Oak Knoll, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2006
($14): This excellent example of what Oregon has to offer in Pinot Gris 
delivers a subtle nutty creaminess, buttressed by bright acid. A stone fruit-like texture lends added weight without being oily. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 19, 2008… Read more
The Yard, Mount Barker (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling Whispering Hill Vineyard 2007
($25, Vintage New World): Larry Cherubino, founder and winemaker at The Yard, has great experience finding top-notch vineyards in Western Australia since he was winemaker at Houghton’s, the region’s largest producer. This dazzling Riesling reinforces what a great area Mt. Barker is for the varietal. … Read more
Nine Stones, Sydney (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay 2006
($15, Vineyard Brands): Although Hunter Valley is considered the closest wine region to Sydney, wine is produced closer to the capital in the Sydney Wine Region, where the industry got its start in 1788. This stylish Chardonnay dispels the prejudice that Australian Chardonnays are heavy and oak-laden with its minerality, lemony acidity and creaminess.… Read more
The Lane Vineyard, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Sauvignon “Estate Grown” 2006
($30, Vintage New World): Bright and pungent, but not overly piercing, this Sauvignon Blanc has an attractive texture and weight in the mid-palate. Chalky minerality complemented by lemony nuances spread across the mouth. It comes across as less edgy than the typical version from neighboring New Zealand.… Read more
Col Solare, Columbia Valley (Washington) 2004
($65): 
The first vintage of Col Solare, a joint venture between Tuscany’s Piero Antinori and Washington State’s Château Ste. Michelle Winery, was 1995. That wine, tasted recently, had developed beautifully revealing floral notes and an engaging minerality. The 2004, a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and three percent Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, has potential to follow in the 95’s footsteps. … Read more
Domaine Olivier Hillaire, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Vielles Vignes” 2006
($15, Wines of France/Alain Junguenet Selection): A blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, this Côtes du Rhône has exceptional polish and grace to complement its bright red fruit flavors. Its length and density belies its lowly appellation. Don’t miss it.… Read more
Villa Maria, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon “Private Bin” 2006
($15, Vineyard Brands): The next time someone asks the question, ‘Can you recommend a good $15 wine?’ this one goes to the top of the list. A blend of mostly (86%) Merlot, it has a gorgeous floral nose, a healthy dose of herbal, non-fruit flavors to add complexity and lovely balance.… Read more
Villa Maria, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Syrah “Cellar Selection” 2005
($25, Vineyard Brands): While Marlborough region is known for Sauvignon Blanc and Central 
Otago and Martinborough areas for Pinot Noir, George Fistonich, managing director of Villa Maria, says that Hawkes Bay, located on the North Island, is ‘good for everything’ because of its multitude of microclimates. … Read more
Adelsheim Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2006
($16): David and Ginny Adelsheim’s eponymous vineyard was one of the founding members of the Oregon wine industry. Best known for their stylish Pinot Noir–especially Elizabeth’s Reserve–Adelsheim’s Pinot Gris releases also shine. The 2006 has nuances of fresh pears and an alluring mouth filling texture complemented by a vibrant freshness.… Read more
Adelsheim Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Elizabeth’s Reserve” 2006
($48): Adelsheim makes this Reserve wine by selecting the best barrels of Pinot Noir in his cellar, which, not coincidently, usually come from grapes grown in their estate vineyards in the Chehalem Mountains. It combines ripe fresh red fruit flavors, spice, and a captivating woodsy character without being heavy or overbearing. … Read more
DiStefano, Columbia Valley (Washington) Meritage 2004
($28): Smooth and polished, with dark berry fruit flavors enhanced by echoes of coffee, chocolate, and sweet vanilla-laced oak, this is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 20% Cabernet Franc. Its firm tannins provide a well-defined structure but do not seem excessively astringent, suggesting that the wine should age gracefully.… Read more
Juniper Crossing, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($16, Tom Eddy Wines): SSB or SBS-depending on the primary grape-is a popular blend in Western Australia that deserves more recognition on our shores. The Semillon fills out the Sauvignon Blanc without dominating it. The edginess of Sauvignon Blanc persists, especially in the finish, but there is a lovely softness and creaminess that comes through.… Read more
The Lane Vineyard, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Reunion” 2003
($45, Vintage New World): The Adelaide Hills region of South Australia is cooler than most winegrowing areas of Australia and has the potential to produce grapes whose flavors and tannins develop nicely at lower sugar levels. Hence, the wines, such as this Shiraz, can be concentrated but retain elegance because they are not alcoholic or over the top. … Read more
Château de la Ragotière, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine (Loire Valley, France) Sur Lie 2006
($10, Vineyard Brands): Muscadet is known for its racy acidity-there’s no shortage here-but what sets this wine apart is its minerality and texture that persists into the finish. It has more body than the typical Muscadet. Not a friendly ‘sipping’ wine, it’s perfect with steamed shellfish dipped in butter.… Read more
The Lane Vineyard, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Viognier 2006
($30, Vintage New World): Viognier is a tough grape to vinify. Often the wine can be heavy and blowsy or alcoholic because the grapes need to be very ripe to transmit the requisite aroma and flavor to the wine. John Edwards, owner of The Lane Vineyard, has done a fabulous job with his 2006. … Read more
Is it Really Terroir or Is it Just Marketing?
It is often difficult for American consumers, who are accustomed to varietal labeling, to understand and the see the virtue in the European tradition of naming wines by reference to place of origin rather than the name of the grape–a system that highlights the importance of terroir or place.… Read more
Columbia Winery, Yakima Valley (Washington) Chardonnay Wyckoff Vineyard 2004
($20): Despite being barrel fermented and undergoing malolactic 
fermentation, this Chardonnay is not in-your-face, but rather has a beautiful balance of fruit and oak. Bright vibrant acidity keeps it lively. A relatively low–at least these days–13.5% alcohol helps explain its character and appeal.… Read more
Perrin et Fils, Rasteau (Rhône Valley, France) “l’Andeol” 2006
($16): Rasteau is one of the villages under Côtes du Rhone Villages appellation that is allowed to put its name on the label because it has the potential to make better and more distinctive wines than the average of villages within the legally delimited region.… Read more
Perrin et Fils, Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2005
($12, Vineyard Brands): 
In addition to owning the famed Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Perrin family has a négociant business buying grapes and unfinished wines from growers–often neighbors–in the southern Rhone Valley and selling the finished wine under the Perrin & Fils label. … Read more
Truchard, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2005
($35): Although the emphasis in this wine is on sweet, lush, California fruit flavors, earthy and smoky elements add complexity. Its elegance is marred only slightly by heat of alcohol apparent in the finish. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 5, 2008… Read more
Perrin et Fils, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Sinards” 2005
($33, Vineyard Brands): Powerful, yes, but it’s this wine’s refinement that shows why Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the southern Rhone’s most well-known appellation. A beautiful minerality and floral components harmonize effortlessly with spicy nuances. Though made from the usual blend of Mediterranean grapes, this wine has a gracefulness not usually associated with the southern Rhône that makes it enjoyable to drink now.… Read more
Clos du Bois, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Merlot Reserve 2004
($22): Tasted side-by-side with their regular–North Coast–Merlot, the 
superiority of the Reserve bottling is readily evident and, in my mind, worth the extra four dollars. As expected, it has more sweet fruit flavors, more apparent oak aging and more supporting tannins. … Read more
Southern Right Cellars, Walker Bay (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2007
($13): 
Southern Right makes marvelously consistent Sauvignon Blanc. Their 2007 is no exception. It combines layers of chalky minerality found in Sancerre with bracing New Zealand type acidity characteristic of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Which makes sense, since South Africa is located roughly halfway between those two regions. … Read more
Glen Carlou, Paarl (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($16, Hess Imports): Plump black cherry flavors buttressed by uplifting acidity and fine tannins make this wine an excellent buy. Not an ‘aperitif’ wine, it goes best with hearty beef dishes. 87 Michael Apstein Feb 5, 2008… Read more
Cycles Gladiator, Central Coast (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($11): I’ve never been enamored of the label of this brand, owned by Hahn Estates, the high quality Monterey-based winery. But the wine in the bottle shows very well in blind tastings and consistently offers excellent value. This 2005 Pinot Noir continues in that vein, delivering an alluring earthy/leafy component atop bright fresh red fruit flavors.… Read more
Bouchaine, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2005
($30): Bouchaine Vineyards specializes in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, 
grapes that thrive in cooler climates, because of their location in the Carneros region. Carneros spans the southern parts of both Napa and Sonoma and is cooled by influences from the San Pablo Bay. … Read more
Veramonte, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir Reserva 2006
($15, Huneeus Vintners): 
This straightforward Pinot Noir delivers bright primary fruit–cherry-like–flavors without earthy, leafy nuances frequently found in the varietal. A nice balance of pure fruit flavors, lively acidity and soft tannins makes it perfect for current consumption. 86 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008… Read more
Joseph Burrier, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Les Paquelets” 2005
($20, Ex-Cellars): Burrier, proprietor of the high-quality Château de Beauregard in Pouilly-Fuissé, also acts as a small négociant for a few wines from Beaujolais. This terrific wine from Julienas, one of the best crus of Beaujolais, conveys fresh fruity, but not grapey, flavors along with an alluring wildness often characteristic of wines from this village. … Read more
MacRostie, Carneros (California) Syrah Wildcat Mountain Vineyard 2004
($34): The Syrah grape can deliver peppery or plummy flavors depending on where it’s planted. MacRostie manages to get both, perhaps because the grapes came from two different blocks within its Wildcat Mountain Vineyard. The result is a lovely plummy, slightly peppery Syrah with nuances of smoke and bacon fat. … Read more
Capel Vale, Mount Barker (Western Australia) Shiraz 2005
($22, Tom Eddy Wines): Despite its 14.5% alcohol, which it carries beautifully, Capel Vale’s Shiraz bares little resemblance to the powerfully concentrated ones from the Barossa Valley. There is no lack of fruit flavor or weight here, but what impresses is the exotic spices, bacon fat, complexity and great length. … Read more