($14): It’s abundantly clear that David Stare’s decision in 1972 to plant Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek Valley was brilliant. That grape brought — and continues to bring — acclaim to Dry Creek Vineyard. The 2014, labeled, as always, Fumé Blanc (an allusion to the Loire Valley’s Pouilly Fumé) is marvelous with a rich texture offset by grapefruit rind-like bitterness and delicate bite. … Read more
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Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2014
($18): Dave Stare, who founded Dry Creek Vineyard, always made superb Sauvignon Blanc. Though he is no longer making the wines, the tradition continues. For the first time, they are including two clones, estate grown Sauvignon Gris and Sauvignon Musqué, with Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Casal Branco, do Tejo (Portugal) “Falcoaria Clássico” 2012
($14, Tri-Vin Imports): Portugal remains a vast, undiscovered country for table (non Port) wines. Casal Branco’s Falcoaria Clássico is just another example of the value to be found in that part of the Iberian Peninsula. Casal Branco, a vast 2,700 acre estate with 350 acres of vines, has been in the same family for over 200 years, so it is not exactly a newcomer to winemaking. … Read more
Donnafugata, DOC Sicilia Bianco (Italy) “Anthília” 2014
($17, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Vibrancy is one of the surprising characteristics about wines from Sicily, a Mediterranean island where you’d think the heat would produce very ripe grapes lacking in acidity. It’s certainly not the case with the wines from Donnafugata, one of island’s leading producers. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2012
($51, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): In a word — gorgeous. Though the first whiff hints at grandeur, it takes time in the glass for the charm of this Meursault to reveal itself. But it does — creamy with a captivating fullness. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Mâcon Villages (Burgundy, France) 2014
($14, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Jadot’s 2014 Mâcon Villages offers a fabulous comparison to their very good one from 2012. While still displaying an engaging creaminess, it’s slightly less rich than the 2012, but has more energy and vivacity. Those whose tastes run to more voluptuous wines — though still not in the New World ripeness category — will enjoy the 2012. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Mâcon Villages (Burgundy, France) 2012
($14, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Chardonnay is prominently displayed on the label to remind consumers that Mâcon Villages, like all white Burgundy, is made from that grape. Jadot has done an admirable job with this one because it transmits the richness of the 2012 vintage while maintaining good acidity, which gives the wine a pleasant kick. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) “Domaine Louis Jadot” 2012
($159, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): At first impression, this wine announces its Grand Cru origin. And it keeps sending this signal as you continue to taste it. Part of its grandeur, no doubt, comes from its being an estate wine. (Domaine Louis Jadot in the box at the base of the label means that the grapes come from their portion of the Clos Vougeot vineyard.)… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Rouge (France) “Le Chapitre” 2012
($31, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): This Bourgogne Rouge delivers far more than you’d expect from that simple appellation and shows that the producer often trumps terroir. A look at the label explains why. First, Maison Louis Jadot is one of Burgundy’s top producers. … Read more
Bodega Septima, Luján de Cuyo (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec 2014
($14, Aveniu Brands): This big red wine has considerable polish, in part, no doubt, because Codorníu Argentina, a subsidiary of the great Spanish wine-producing firm, owns Bodega Septima. This juicy wine manages concentration without going over the edge. The tannins are mild, especially considering the overall size of the wine, which means it’s very approachable now and would be a good choice for grilled beef this summer.… Read more
A Seasonal Take on Food and Wine Pairing
Bob Harkey, a friend who has an excellent palate and uses it stocking his retail shop (Harkey’s Fine Wines, in suburban Boston), gives the spot-on advice around Thanksgiving, “Match the wine to the company–not the food.” I now expand that advice after a meal during the recent East Coast heat wave to, “Match the wine to the setting, not the food.”… Read more
The Trouble with Vouvray
Vouvray is home to a fabulous array of under-valued white wines. A major impediment to more widespread popularity is the confusion that surrounds their level of sweetness. (This confusion is surely a major reason the wines remain undervalued, so perhaps–for those of us who love the wines–I should stop here.) … Read more
McManis Family Vineyards, River Junction (California) Viognier 2014
($11): This Viognier is an unbelievable bargain. Viognier is notoriously difficult to get right because it often comes across as a heavy wine. McManis got this one right. It leads with a delicate whiff of white flowers and then dances delicately on the palate, finishing with a bright and racy signature. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Paris Tasting Commemorative” 2012
($92): Miljenko “Mike” Grgich put California wines firmly on the world’s wine map in 1976 when a Chardonnay he made when he was Chateau Montelena’s winemaker beat out a bevy of white Burgundies for first place at a comparative tasting in Paris. … Read more
Kumeu River, Kumeu (Auckland, New Zealand) Chardonnay Coddington Vineyard 2012
($42, Wilson Daniels): In my experience, Kumeu River is the best New Zealand Chardonnay producer. Of course, I’ve not tasted every Chardonnay coming out of that country, but it’s hard for me to believe there’s a better overall producer of that varietal in New Zealand than Kumeu River. … Read more
Kumeu River, Kumeu (Auckland, New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2012
($28, Wilson Daniels): With this Pinot Gris, Kumeu River, justifiably known for their fantastic line-up of Chardonnay, shows they know how to transform other varieties into top-notch wine. It’s a unique Pinot Gris, falling somewhere between the lighter styled Italian version and the heavy ones from Alsace. … Read more
Kumeu River, Kumeu (Auckland, New Zealand) Chardonnay Hunting Hill Vineyard 2012
($50, Wilson Daniels): Though Kumeu River’s 2012 Hunting Hill Chardonnay is distinct from the winery’s other bottlings, it has the balance and precision for which that producer is known. Showing more minerality than Kumeu River’s Coddington Chardonnay, it could pass for a Grand Cru Chablis because of its density.… Read more
Kumeu River, Kumeu (Auckland, New Zealand) Chardonnay Maté Vineyard 2012
($48, Wilson Daniels): Kumeu River’s Maté Vineyard Chardonnay, named for the patriarch of the family, is always their boldest and most complexity offering. The 2012 fits that description. Although richer and bigger than the winery’s other Chardonnays, it remains perfectly balanced without sacrificing any freshness or verve. … Read more
Monteverro, IGT Toscana (Italy) Vermentino di Monteverro 2014
($25, Opici Wines): Monteverro, a relatively new player in Bolgheri sweepstakes, is aiming to join the Ornellaia and Sassicaia Super Tuscan club with their red wine. So it came as a great surprise to see the quality of this white. Their 2014 Vermentino is crisp, with an enticing floral whiff. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2010
($120, Louis Latour USA): No one produces a better Corton Charlemagne consistently than Maison Louis Latour. Latour, the largest owner of Corton Charlemagne, has ideally located plots on the hill of Corton. The sheer extensiveness of their holdings means that even in “difficult” years Latour’s Corton Charlemagne is top-notch because they limit production by selecting only the very best grapes. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Merlot Harris Vineyard 2012
($60): The Nickel & Nickel Harris Vineyard Merlot, though similarly floral to their Suscol Ranch bottling, is firmer with more backbone and structure at this stage. The tannins are more apparent, but still not aggressive or astringent. It delivers a marvelous leafy character that compliments and reinforces its dark, warm fruit and dense minerality. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2011
($42): If all Merlot tasted like this one from Grgich Hills Estate, the varietal would not be lampooned but rather lionized. This one manages to be plush and seductive without be flabby. Indeed, its structure shows it’s serious wine, not to be confused with the “I’ll a glass of Merlot” category. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Napa Valley (California) Merlot Suscol Ranch 2012
($60): Nickel & Nickel specializes in single vineyard wines — not as a marketing tool, but because the wines are different and unique. Their two 2012 Merlots, sourced from Suscol Ranch and Harris Vineyard, show, in clear relief, the value of their approach. … Read more
Truchard Vineyards, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($40): One word describes this wine — graceful. Truchard Vineyards has resisted the temptation to join the crowd with an over-the-top blockbuster Cabernet. Instead, they’ve chosen the graceful path with a wine displaying an alluring herbaceous quality without being under-ripe. There’s plenty of power here, but it doesn’t scream or overwhelm your palate — or the food for that matter. … Read more
Domaine de la Robinière , Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Bel Air” Sec 2013
($15): The Vouvray appellation is home to an array of fabulous under-valued white wines. A major impediment to their more widespread popularity is the confusion regarding the level of sweetness. Domaine de la Robinière (a.k.a. Vincent& Julien Raimbault) help the consumer by labeling their “Bel Air” cuvée as Sec — and it is dry with exhilarating green apple-like freshness that enhances its bracing minerality. … Read more
Domaine d’Orfeuilles, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Les Coudraies 2012
($16, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The Vouvray appellation is home to an array of fabulous under-valued white wines. A major impediment to their more widespread popularity is the confusion regarding the level of sweetness. Here’s yet another example. There’s no indication on the front label regarding level of sweetness. … Read more
Château de Montfort, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Demi Sec 2013
($16): It’s worth repeating: The Vouvray appellation is home to an array of fabulous under-valued white wines. A major impediment to their more widespread popularity is the confusion regarding the level of sweetness. And this wine is a perfect example. The label reads “Demi-Sec,” which implies sweetness. … Read more
Domaine du Clos Naudin, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Moelleux 2011
($53): Philippe Foreau and his family-owned estate, Domaine du Clos Naudin, is one of the stars of Vouvray. The Domaine consists of just under 30 acres of Chenin Blanc vines, from which Foreau makes a stunning range of wines. This one, Moelleux, which means sweet, has apricot nuances and an invigorating freshness. … Read more
François Pinon, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Brut Non Dosé NV
($23): This sparkling wine from François Pinon, one of the leading producers in Vouvray, dazzles with its mineraly chalky signature. The limestone and flint soil gives it real character and structure. It conveys a pleasing firmness without being aggressive because the inherent fruitiness of Chenin Blanc balances its moderate fizziness. … Read more
Beckman Vineyards, Santa Inez Valley (Central Coast, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2014
($20): Beckman, known best for the stylish red and white Rhône blends, also produces a Sauvignon Blanc, a grape not known to the Rhône Valley, from their own grapes. The 2014 is a balanced version with a touch of expected bite offset by a hint of creaminess. … Read more
Matanzas Creek Winery, Knights Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc Helena Bench 2013
($40): Matanzas Creek, a pioneering Sonoma County winery founded in 1977, produces five different and distinctive Sauvignon Blanc, each reflecting the origin of the grapes. You can practically taste and feel the volcanic soil in this Helena Bench bottling, which gives the wine individuality rarely found with this variety in California. … Read more
Matanzas Creek Winery, Bennett Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2013
($32): Matanzas Creek has always had a reputation for top-notch Sauvignon Blanc. With this Bennett Valley bottling, they maintain their exceptional track record. It’s a beautifully balanced wine with an innervating bite you’d expect from Sauvignon Blanc couple with a suave richness. … Read more
Jayson, Sonoma Coast (California) Pinot Noir 2013
($60): Jayson, Pahlmeyer’s second label, offers an introduction to the luxurious style for which Pahlmeyer has become known at a lower price. The wines are typically released earlier — the 2012 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is Pahlmeyer’s current release — because they are more approachable. … Read more
EnRoute, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Les Pommiers” 2013
($65): The Pinot Noirs from EnRoute (a winery started by the same talented people who founded Far Niente, Nickel & Nickel and Dolce) just get better and better. The 2013, only the 7th release, shows considerably more complexity and suaveness than previous vintages. … Read more
Jordan Vineyard and Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($53): I am an enthusiastic fan of Jordan’s Cabernets because the team there has, thankfully, resisted the California trend toward super ripe, super rich, bombastic wines. Although much has changed at Jordan since their founding — the grapes no longer come solely from their vineyards — they continue to focus on Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay and continue to produce harmonious wines. … Read more
Louis Latour, Pouilly-Vinzelles (Burgundy, France) “En Paradis” 2012
($22): The attention wines from small growers receive from the press, sommeliers and retailers can make us overlook wines from even the best négociants. That’s always a mistake and this wine is just another case in point. Maison Louis Latour, a top-notch Beaune-based négociant, owns no land in Pouilly-Vinzelles, an appellation neighboring Pouilly-Fuissé. … Read more
Louis Latour, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2012
($28, Louis Latour USA): Let’s face it: Buying Pouilly-Fuissé is, figuratively speaking, akin to walking through a minefield. Wines from this appellation, the best from the Mâconnais region of Burgundy, range from insipid to stellar. This 2012, from one of Burgundy’s top négociants, is easy to recommend. … Read more
Susana Balbo, Argentina () Torrontes “Crios” 2014
($15, Vine Connections): Malbec is Argentina’s signature red grape, while Torrontés is that country’s signature white. Fresh and floral with hints of white flowers and snappy acidity, Susana Balbo’s 2014 Torrontés is bottled springtime. The barest hint of sweetness in the finish makes it perfect as a poolside aperitif or to accompany spiced summer salads.… Read more
Susana Balbo, Mendoza (Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($25, Vine Connections): Susana Balbo is a leading Argentine producer — and this well-priced Cabernet Sauvignon confirms it. It has a bit of everything — great aromatics, a hint of minerals, and black fruit flavors — but it’s all in check. … Read more
Clos du Val, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($38): Kristy Melton, Clos du Val’s new winemaker, has achieved her stated goal of making a bolder style of wine with the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon. Though the texture is still silky and suave, some will complain about the diminished subtly in the flavor profile. … Read more
Louis M. Martini, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($38): Comparing Louis Martini’s Napa Cabernet Sauvignon with its stable mate from Alexander Valley shows that the French do not have a monopoly on terroir. These two wines made from the same grape from the same vintage made by the same winemaking team truly reflect their respective sites. … Read more
Clos du Val, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2012
($35): Kristy Melton, who joined Clos du Val in 2010 as assistant winemaker and is now its winemaker, is aiming for a bolder style that reflects the California sunshine. Though there’s no question that this 2012 Merlot is richer and lusher than past vintages, she’s managed to retain the silky finesse that characterizes Clos du Val’s wines.… Read more
Clos du Val, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2013
($32): The Carneros region of Napa, its southern end abutting San Pablo Bay, has always been a prime locale for grapes, such as Pinot Noir, that thrive in cooler climates. This lacey Pinot Noir reflects its origins with a subtle dose of earthiness that balances the bright fresh fruit profile for which the new winemaker, Kristy Melton, is aiming. … Read more
Louis M. Martini, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($34): Louis Martini was one of the pioneering giants of California wine. Although the Martini family is no longer involved with the label, the wines bearing the Martini name still express the best in California wine. This Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, has a harmonious mixture of bright dark fruit flavors offset by subtle herbaceous notes that add complexity. … Read more
Monteverro, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Verruzzo di Monteverro” 2013
($29, Opici Wines): Monteverro, whose aim is to join the top end Maremma producers, has crafted this seamless blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese as their “entry level” wine. It has the richness expected from the Bordeaux varieties grown in that region, but unexpected brightness and liveliness from Sangiovese, a grape that does not ordinarily thrive in the Maremma. … Read more
Argento, Mendoza (Argentina) Pinot Grigio 2013
($13, Blends Inc.): To their credit, winemakers throughout Argentina are experimenting with a plethora of grape varieties to see which actually work in their unique climate. It seems that Pinot Grigio, at least this one, works. A floral impression in the clean, bright and refreshing wine allows you to enjoy it either as an evening aperitif this summer or with linguine and clam sauce this summer.… Read more
Chinon: Burgundy in the Loire Valley
Chinon as Burgundy? At first glance, it is an unlikely comparison. Chinon growers use Cabernet Franc almost exclusively for their reds, while Burgundians use Pinot Noir. And Cabernet Franc is no winemaker’s Holy Grail, unlike Pinot Noir. Few consumers are passionate about Cabernet Franc, nor do they search for it the way they clamor for Pinot Noir.… Read more
Bodega Garzón, Uruguay (Uruguay) Albarino 2014
($20, Blends Inc.): If this is an example of how well Albariño does in Uruguay, it should become their national wine. Bodega Garzón has fashioned a perky and beautifully cutting aromatic white that displays unusual depth. This zippy wine will have wide spread appeal either as an aperitif or to accompany simple seafood this summer. … Read more
Bodega Garzón, Uruguay (Uruguay) Tannat 2013
($19, Blends Inc.): Tannat historical home is in southwest France, where in Madiran it makes enormously rich tannic wines (I don’t think the similarity between the grape’s name and tannin is a coincidence). In Uruguay, however, the wines made from this grape are a little lighter, but still bold, with far less aggressive tannins. … Read more
Beckmen Vineyards, Santa Ynez Valley (Central Coast, California) Grenache Rose Purisma Mountain Vineyard 2014
($25): Beckman has a knack for making excellent wines, such as this one, from traditional Rhône grapes. Unlike many California rosés, this one is truly dry, actually with a touch of pleasant bitterness in the finish that complements and amplifies the spicy wild strawberry-like flavors. … Read more