All posts by admin

Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County (California) Fumé Blanc 2014

($14): It’s abundantly clear that David Stare’s decision in 1972 to plant Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek Valley was brilliant.  That grape brought — and continues to bring — acclaim to Dry Creek Vineyard.  The 2014, labeled, as always, Fumé Blanc (an allusion to the Loire Valley’s Pouilly Fumé) is marvelous with a rich texture offset by grapefruit rind-like bitterness and delicate bite. Read more

Casal Branco, do Tejo (Portugal) “Falcoaria Clássico” 2012

($14, Tri-Vin Imports): Portugal remains a vast, undiscovered country for table (non Port) wines.  Casal Branco’s Falcoaria Clássico is just another example of the value to be found in that part of the Iberian Peninsula.  Casal Branco, a vast 2,700 acre estate with 350 acres of vines, has been in the same family for over 200 years, so it is not exactly a newcomer to winemaking. Read more

Maison Louis Jadot, Mâcon Villages (Burgundy, France) 2014

($14, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Jadot’s 2014 Mâcon Villages offers a fabulous comparison to their very good one from 2012.  While still displaying an engaging creaminess, it’s slightly less rich than the 2012, but has more energy and vivacity.  Those whose tastes run to more voluptuous wines — though still not in the New World ripeness category — will enjoy the 2012. Read more

Maison Louis Jadot, Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) “Domaine Louis Jadot” 2012

($159, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): At first impression, this wine announces its Grand Cru origin. And it keeps sending this signal as you continue to taste it. Part of its grandeur, no doubt, comes from its being an estate wine. (Domaine Louis Jadot in the box at the base of the label means that the grapes come from their portion of the Clos Vougeot vineyard.)Read more

Bodega Septima, Luján de Cuyo (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec 2014

($14, Aveniu Brands): This big red wine has considerable polish, in part, no doubt, because Codorníu Argentina, a subsidiary of the great Spanish wine-producing firm, owns Bodega Septima.  This juicy wine manages concentration without going over the edge.  The tannins are mild, especially considering the overall size of the wine, which means it’s very approachable now and would be a good choice for grilled beef this summer.Read more

A Seasonal Take on Food and Wine Pairing

Bob Harkey, a friend who has an excellent palate and uses it stocking his retail shop (Harkey’s Fine Wines, in suburban Boston), gives the spot-on advice around Thanksgiving, “Match the wine to the company–not the food.”  I now expand that advice after a meal during the recent East Coast heat wave to, “Match the wine to the setting, not the food.”Read more

The Trouble with Vouvray

Vouvray is home to a fabulous array of under-valued white wines.  A major impediment to more widespread popularity is the confusion that surrounds their level of sweetness.  (This confusion is surely a major reason the wines remain undervalued, so perhaps–for those of us who love the wines–I should stop here.) Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2010

($120, Louis Latour USA): No one produces a better Corton Charlemagne consistently than Maison Louis Latour.  Latour, the largest owner of Corton Charlemagne, has ideally located plots on the hill of Corton.  The sheer extensiveness of their holdings means that even in “difficult” years Latour’s Corton Charlemagne is top-notch because they limit production by selecting only the very best grapes. Read more

Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Merlot Harris Vineyard 2012

($60): The Nickel & Nickel Harris Vineyard Merlot, though similarly floral to their Suscol Ranch bottling, is firmer with more backbone and structure at this stage.  The tannins are more apparent, but still not aggressive or astringent.  It delivers a marvelous leafy character that compliments and reinforces its dark, warm fruit and dense minerality. Read more

Truchard Vineyards, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

($40): One word describes this wine — graceful.  Truchard Vineyards has resisted the temptation to join the crowd with an over-the-top blockbuster Cabernet.  Instead, they’ve chosen the graceful path with a wine displaying an alluring herbaceous quality without being under-ripe.  There’s plenty of power here, but it doesn’t scream or overwhelm your palate — or the food for that matter. Read more

Domaine de la Robinière , Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Bel Air” Sec 2013

($15): The Vouvray appellation is home to an array of fabulous under-valued white wines.  A major impediment to their more widespread popularity is the confusion regarding the level of sweetness.  Domaine de la Robinière (a.k.a. Vincent& Julien Raimbault) help the consumer by labeling their “Bel Air” cuvée as Sec — and it is dry with exhilarating green apple-like freshness that enhances its bracing minerality. Read more

Matanzas Creek Winery, Knights Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc Helena Bench 2013

($40): Matanzas Creek, a pioneering Sonoma County winery founded in 1977, produces five different and distinctive Sauvignon Blanc, each reflecting the origin of the grapes.  You can practically taste and feel the volcanic soil in this Helena Bench bottling, which gives the wine individuality rarely found with this variety in California. Read more

Jordan Vineyard and Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

($53): I am an enthusiastic fan of Jordan’s Cabernets because the team there has, thankfully, resisted the California trend toward super ripe, super rich, bombastic wines.   Although much has changed at Jordan since their founding — the grapes no longer come solely from their vineyards — they continue to focus on Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay and continue to produce harmonious wines. Read more

Louis Latour, Pouilly-Vinzelles (Burgundy, France) “En Paradis” 2012

($22): The attention wines from small growers receive from the press, sommeliers and retailers can make us overlook wines from even the best négociants.  That’s always a mistake and this wine is just another case in point.  Maison Louis Latour, a top-notch Beaune-based négociant, owns no land in Pouilly-Vinzelles, an appellation neighboring Pouilly-Fuissé. Read more

Louis M. Martini, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

($34): Louis Martini was one of the pioneering giants of California wine.  Although the Martini family is no longer involved with the label, the wines bearing the Martini name still express the best in California wine.  This Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, has a harmonious mixture of bright dark fruit flavors offset by subtle herbaceous notes that add complexity. Read more

Monteverro, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Verruzzo di Monteverro” 2013

($29, Opici Wines): Monteverro, whose aim is to join the top end Maremma producers, has crafted this seamless blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese as their “entry level” wine.  It has the richness expected from the Bordeaux varieties grown in that region, but unexpected brightness and liveliness from Sangiovese, a grape that does not ordinarily thrive in the Maremma. Read more

Argento, Mendoza (Argentina) Pinot Grigio 2013

($13, Blends Inc.): To their credit, winemakers throughout Argentina are experimenting with a plethora of grape varieties to see which actually work in their unique climate.  It seems that Pinot Grigio, at least this one, works.  A floral impression in the clean, bright and refreshing wine allows you to enjoy it either as an evening aperitif this summer or with linguine and clam sauce this summer.Read more