($35): 
Full disclosure, Zinfandel is one of my least favorite wines. Petit Sirah runs a close second because both usually are impossibly overdone wines. So, I shuddered when I read the blend: Zinfandel (76%), Petit Sirah (22%) and Carignane. But that’s why you taste. … Read more
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Rocca delle Macìe, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Pian della Casina “Sergioveto” 2016
($53, Palm Bay International): 
Rocca delle Macìe changed the blend, vineyard site, and appellation for this wine starting with the 2015 vintage. The wine was originally created in 1985 as a Super Tuscan by Italo Zingarelli, the company’s founder, and named for his son, Sergio, the current head of the company. … Read more
Domaine Saint Gayan, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Trescartes” 2016
($15, Europvin USA): 
Domaine Saint Gayan, known for their Gigondas, also makes a notable Côtes du Rhône from grapes grown in the neighboring villages of Seguret and Sablet, two of the named villages of the more prestigious Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation, according to their website. … Read more
Domaine du Pavillon (Bichot), Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2018
($100): 
This village Meursault, a blend of five plots from the northern end of the appellation, is vinified at the Domaine du Pavillon, just down the road in Pommard. One taste shows the dramatic textural difference between this white from the Côte d’Or and the Les Champs-Michaux from the Côte Chalonnaise. … Read more
Domaine Adélie (Bichot), Mercurey (Burgundy, France) “Les Champs-Michaux” 2018
($55): 
Albéric Bichot purchased this almost 20-acre estate in Mercurey in 2003, the year of his first daughter’s birth. Hence the name of the domaine. Mercurey is known for its red wines, but with more whites like this one, the reputation of its whites might well outdistance the reds. … Read more
Domaine du Pavillon (Bichot), Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2018
($260): 
Bichot owns about three acres in the Les Languettes lieu-dit, a sunny southeast facing part of the Corton-Charlemagne vineyard. From it, they have made a glorious wine in 2018, showing nuances of spiced pineapple offset by a crispy edginess. Its stature is not in overall weight or power, rather in its layered complexity and elegance. … Read more
Domaine Long-Depaquit (Bichot), Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) “Les Clos” 2018
($112): 
With holdings totaling 150 acres of vines, almost half of which are located in Premier or Grand Cru vineyards, Bichot’s Long-Depaquit is one of the most notable estates in Chablis. They own roughly ten percent of all Grand Cru acreage in Chablis, including the entirety of La Moutonne, an anomalous site of almost 6-acres spanning two Grand Cru vineyards, Vaudésir and Preuses. … Read more
Domaine du Pavillon (Bichot), Pommard (Burgundy, France) “Clos des Ursulines” 2018
($55): 
Unlike Bordeaux, most Burgundy vineyards are divided among multiple owners, which explains why the consumer can see multiple bottlings of Pommard Epenots, for example. By contrast, Clos des Ursulines, a nearly 10-acre vineyard located in the southeast part of the village, is owned entirely by the Domaine du Pavillon. … Read more
Château Gris (Bichot), Nuits-Saint Georges 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) 2018
($130): 
The 1er cru vineyard, Château Gris, takes its name from the 19th century castle the Earl of Lupé-Cholet built on the site after phylloxera destroyed the vines. Instead of the usual multi-colored tiles of Burgundian roofs, it had only slate tiles, giving arise to the nickname of Gris (grey). … Read more
Domaine du Clos Frantin (Bichot), Echézeaux Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2018
($360): 
Bichot’s Domaine du Clos Frantin owns two and a third acres in the lieu-dit of Champs Traversin from which they make a consistently spectacular Echézeaux. The 2018 is no exception. It is explosive, yet not weighty. It delivers a touch of spice along with a plethora of subtle fruit flavors. … Read more
Domaine de Rochegrès (Bichot), Domaine de Rochegrès (Bichot) (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2018
($28): 
Bichot purchased this 12.5-acre estate in the heart of Moulin-a-Vent, arguably the top Beaujolais cru, in 2014. The grapes come from three lieux-dits within Moulin-a-Vent, La Rochelle, Au Mont, and the young vines from Rochegrès itself. It is ripe, spicy and suave, combining richness, minerality and bright acidity. … Read more
Terre del Palio, Rosso di Montalcino DOC (Tuscany, Italy) 2017
($32, Seaview Imports): 
Rosso di Montalcino is a great introduction to Brunello di Montalcino, one of Italy’s greatest wines. Similar to Brunello, Rosso must be made entirely from Sangiovese — no blending with Cabernet, Merlot, or anything allowed. This mid-weight wine delivers sour cherry-like fruitiness — the Sangiovese speaking — and a hint of tarry minerality, which is emblematic of the area. … Read more
I Magredi, Friuli Grave DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
($17, Seaview Imports): 
Most people don’t think of northeastern Italy for Cabernet Sauvignon. Indeed, Friuli Venezia Giulia is home to some of Italy’s best white wines. But, some Cabernet — both Sauvignon and Franc — are grown on the well-drained gravelly soil, which gives its name to the DOC (Friuli Grave). … Read more
Finca Mangato, Tupungato (Mendoza, Argentina) “Estela Perinetti” 2016
($55, Seaview Imports): 
The name of the wine, Estela Perinetti, is also the name of the owner and winemaker at Finca Mangato. She is one of Argentina’s first female winemakers and viticulturists, according to the Finca Mangato website. She should know a thing or two about making wine in Argentina since, according to her biographical sketch, she worked with the Catena family, one of, if not the country’s leading wine family, for two decades. … Read more
Bichot is Back
If I needed any convincing—and I did not—that Bichot, the venerable Beaune-based Burgundy négoçiant, is back, it was after tasting a line-up of their 2018s. That vintage was precarious for winegrowers because the weather provided the potential for both fabulous wines or over-ripe ones with high alcohol levels depending on harvest date, location of the vineyards, and viticulture practices.
… Read more Frog’s Leap Winery, Rutherford, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2017
($40): 
This Merlot shows why it’s such a popular kind of wine. Silky tannins enrobe plummy-like fruitiness and make this wine a delight to drink now. In the Frog’s Leap style, it shows restraint, impressing you with elegance and suaveness rather than weight and power. … Read more
Frog’s Leap Winery, Rutherford, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown 2017
($65): 
John Williams, owner and winemaker at Frog’s Leap, has a knack for whimsy. It’s apparent from his website, from his tagline, “time’s fun when you’re having flies,” to the fine print at the very end of the back label —”open other end.” … Read more
Frog’s Leap Winery, Napa Valley (California) Zinfandel 2018
($35): 
Here’s a Zinfandel for those of us who generally avoid that wine. Frog’s Leap signature style of restraint highlights the charms of the varietal. Briary and spicy notes complement its dark fruitiness. Bursting with flavor, yet not overdone, it’s balanced. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) “The Mariner” 2017
($50): 
Dry Creek Vineyard, founded by David Stare in 1972, has been a leader in the Dry Creek Valley wine renaissance. Stare started by focusing on Sauvignon Blanc because of his love of Loire Valley wines, but quickly expanded the portfolio. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Toscana IGP (Tuscany, Italy) Cabernet Sauvignon “Roccato” 2016
($58, Palm Bay International): 
Rocca delle Macìe created Roccato, their Super Tuscan 50/50 Sangiovese-Cabernet Sauvignon blend, in 1988. Starting with the 2015 vintage, it is now entirely Cabernet Sauvignon, which is grown on their Poggio alle Pecchie vineyard on the Le Macìe estate located in Castellina in Chianti. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Famiglia Zingarelli” 2017
($27, Palm Bay International): 
This is great success for the difficult and hot 2017 vintage in Chianti Classico. One producer was so despondent he actually told me that you could forget about the vintage entirely. This wine clearly shows that assessment to be inaccurate. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Sergio Zingarelli” 2016
($100, Palm Bay International): 
As with their superb Chianti Classico Riserva, “Sergioveto,” Rocca delle Macìe has tweaked the style of their Chianti Classico Gran Selezione “Sergio Zingarelli.” They reduced the oak aging and eliminated the Colorino, so the 2016 is made entirely from Sangiovese. … Read more
Jean Hugues & Guilhem Goisot, La Ronce, St-Bris, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2024La Ronce vineyard sits on a hill that has both north and south exposures, hence both Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay grow there. The soil is a mixture of Kimmeridgian limestone and clay, yet there’s more power here than in Goisot’s other St-Bris.
Off-piste Burgundy: Value alternatives
Even serious fans of Burgundy may be unfamiliar with St-Bris, Coteaux Bourguignons and Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains. In a region famous for its rigid devotion to vineyard sites identified by Cistercian monks eight centuries ago, these three appellations – and the wide variety of grape varieties they allow – demonstrate Burgundy’s ability to adapt to the subtleties wrought by the passage of time.… Read more
Louis Latour, Bourgogne, Passetoutgrains, Burgundy, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2021The traditional blend of two-thirds Gamay, one-third Pinot Noir makes this classically framed and easy-to-like Passe-tout-grains. The Pinot Noir comes from the Mâconnais and provides backbone, while Gamay from Beaujolais delivers upfront fruitiness. The lack of oak allows the fruit to shine, resulting in a ready-to-drink, mid-weight wine with charming rusticity and vivacity.
Domaine Bernard Moreau, Bourgogne, Passetoutgrains, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2022Brothers Alexandre and Benôit Moreau have run this top-notch Chassagne-Montrachet-based estate since 1999. Through their diligence in the vineyards and care in the winery, all of their wines – even from this lowly appellation – shine.
Domaine Trapet Père & Fils, A Minima, Bourgogne, Passetoutgrains, Burgundy, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2025Trapet Père et Fils, a stellar producer based in Gevrey-Chambertin, blends equal parts Pinot Noir and Gamay grown in Grand Champs, a vineyard in that village, for its Passe-tout-grains. It takes its name from the philosophy of minimal intervention, which in this case means biodynamic farming, indigenous yeasts and the addition of only a hint of sulphur at bottling.
Domaine Michel Lafarge, L’Exception, Bourgogne, Passetoutgrains, Burgundy, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2025Aptly named, as this leading Volnay-based estate has 1ha of vines, almost 10% of its estate, planted to Passe-tout-grains, some older than 90 years. This organic, biodynamic domaine typically uses equal amounts of Pinot Noir and Gamay with wild yeast to make this truly exceptional wine.
Louis Latour, Les Pierres Dorées, Coteaux Bourguignon, 2018
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2024The limestone in the soil of southern Beaujolais gives the name Pierres Dorées (‘golden rocks’) to the area. A company that knows a thing or two about Pinot Noir, Maison Latour has planted about 20ha of the grape there, and the wine it produces gets better with every vintage.
Louis Jadot, Coteaux Bourguignon, Burgundy, France, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2024Jadot combines Pinot Noir grown in Givry in the Côte Chalonnaise with Gamay from Beaujolais and releases it after an extended time in bottle, which is why 2017 is the current vintage. Blending 75% Gamay and 25% Pinot Noir in 2017, it shows the virtue of using these two grapes: the spine and savoury nuances provided by Pinot Noir act as a foil for Gamay’s red fruit-like profile in this beautifully balanced wine.
Domaine Jean & Gilles Lafouge, Coteaux Bourguignon, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2022This superb grower, based in Auxey-Duresses, used the flexible regulations of Coteaux Bourguignons to tweak its usual blend of consistently winsome Passe-tout-grains. The 2017 contains 70% Gamay and 30% Pinot Noir, both from slopes around the winery where the limestone-rich soil imparts even more acidity to the Gamay than the granitic soil of Beaujolais.
Maison Fatien Père & Fils, Coteaux Bourguignon, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2022In a small vineyard in the commune of Meursault, but outside the Bourgogne Blanc appellation, Fatien Père et Fils has Chardonnay with, as Charles Fatien notes, ‘a few rogue Aligoté vines thrown in’. Previously relegated to the Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire category, it is no ordinary wine.
Domaine Fargues, Coteaux Bourguignon, Burgundy, France, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2024Bénédicte and Bastien Fargues established their tiny 1.3ha estate in Bligny-lès-Beaune in 2005 and are already making notable wines. They limit yields by debudding and bottle without fining or filtering. This 2017 Chardonnay-Aligoté blend demonstrates the virtue of that marriage.
Jean Louis & Jean Christophe Bersan, Cuvée Marianne, St-Bris, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2022This father-and-son team’s 2018 Cuvée Marianne is from 45-year-old vines planted on both Portlandian and Kimmeridgian limestone mixed with clay. Dense, but not heavy, it has aromas and flavours of wet stones. Invigorating acidity balances the ripeness of the vintage and amplifies a steely finish.
Bailly-Lapierre, St-Bris, Burgundy, France, 2018
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2020This cooperative of about 430 growers is best known for its Crémant de Bourgogne, but it also makes a lovely St-Bris. The 2018 took a silver medal at the 29th Concours des Vins du Grand Auxerrois.
Jean Hugues & Guilhem Goisot, Corps de Garde, St-Bris, Burgundy, 2017
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2023Goisot, a family-owned estate, makes fabulous wines across its range, and has farmed biodynamically for two decades. The lower-yielding Sauvignon Gris used for the Corps de Garde is thought to provide more substance. The wine comes from a variety of vineyards composed of Kimmeridgian limestone mixed with clay.
Domaine Séverine & Lionel Jacquet, St-Bris, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2022Founded in 2002 with 2.8ha, based in the village of Chitry, near Chablis, and now expanded to 16ha. The Jacquets started producing St-Bris in 2011, and they are clearly fast learners, since this 2018 St-Bris won a gold medal at the 29th Concours des Vins du Grand Auxerrois.
Ron Rubin Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2017
($25): 
Consumers should be pleased with this well-priced Pinot Noir because it has more complexity than you’d expect at the price. It’s ripe and supple, but unlike many Pinot Noir at this price, it has some earthy, savory nuances. It’s not just sweet cherry juice. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Old Vine Zinfandel 2017
($35): 
Full disclosure, Zinfandel is one of my least favorite wines. Petit Sirah runs a close second because both usually are impossibly overdone wines. So, I shuddered when I read the blend: Zinfandel (76%), Petit Sirah (22%) and Carignane. But that’s why you taste. … Read more
Domaine Saint Gayan, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Trescartes” 2016
($15, Europvin USA): 
Domaine Saint Gayan, known for their Gigondas, also makes a notable Côtes du Rhône from grapes grown in the neighboring villages of Seguret and Sablet, two of the named villages of the more prestigious Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation, according to their website. … Read more
Jean-Luc Colombo, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Abeilles” 2017
($13, Taub Family Selections): 
Jean-Luc Colombo is a star producer in the Northern Rhône appellation of Cornas. Many credit him as a locomotive for that appellation, pulling it onto the world’s stage. It turns out that he also makes a stylish, bargain-priced Côtes du Rhône. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2018
($25): 
Although Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are the French and Italian words for the same grape, the name chosen by New World producers usually defines the style of the wine. Naumes’ rendition, with its subtle hint of pear-like flavors, delivers the fleshy Pinot Gris version. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2019
($20): 
The inclusion of Sauvignon Gris, a faintly colored mutation of Sauvignon Blanc, and Sauvignon Musqué, which some believe is a biotype of Sauvignon Blanc, helps explain this wine’s appealing fleshy texture. (Sauvignon Musqué and Sauvignon Blanc have identical DNA and therefore are the same grape, according to Jancis Robinson et al’s Wine Grapes.) … Read more
Jordan Vineyard & Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
($58): 
Jordan made the difficult decision several years ago to abandon their longstanding and original concept of an estate wine, that is, one made entirely from their own grapes. They made the honest assessment that their grapes were not always the best ones that were available. … Read more
Dog Point, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2019
($21, Vintus): 
New Zealand is known around the world as a top producer of distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. And Dog Point has rapidly become one of the best producers of Sauvignon Blanc in that country. Their 2019 is stunningly good. It’s vibrant without being over the top. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Pian della Casina “Sergioveto” 2016
($53, Palm Bay International): Rocca delle Macìe changed the blend, vineyard site, and appellation for this wine starting with the 2015 vintage. The wine was originally created in 1985 as a Super Tuscan by Italo Zingarelli, the company’s founder, and named for his son, Sergio, the current head of the company. … Read more
Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Chardonnay 2019
($17, HB Wine Merchants): 
With rare exception, consumers don’t usually think of Italy for distinctive Chardonnay. More wines like this one could change that perception. Racy and refined, it’s paradoxically mouth-filling yet not heavy. It’s cutting and spicy profile is refreshing. … Read more
Domaine de Cabrials, Pays d’Oc IGP (Occitanie, France) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
($12, HB Wine Merchants): 
Unbelievable value! That’s the best way to describe this Cabernet. It displays a wonderful — and rare at this price — balance of dark fruit and savory olive-like flavors. Wonderfully textured, it’s not flabby or soft. It’s structured, but not aggressive. … Read more
Langlois-Chateau, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2019
($25, Vintus): 
Langlois-Chateau, though best known for their sparkling wines, also makes noteworthy still wines, such as this Sancerre. The appealing bite of Sauvignon Blanc is apparent, but it speaks of minerals and chalk rather than overt fruitiness. Fresh, bright and clean, it’s a refreshing and graceful expression of that grape.… Read more
Langlois-Chateau, Crémant de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Brut NV
($23, Vintus): 
Edouard Langlois and Jeanne Chateau founded their eponymous company in 1912 and has been a leading producer of Crémant de Loire ever since. This, their standard NV Brut, is a blend of Chenin Blanc (at least 60%), and roughly equal parts of Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc. … Read more