($55, Blicker Pierce Wagner Wine Merchants):  Roero, located on the left bank of the Tanaro River, across from the Langhe, produces lighter Nebbiolo-based wines compared to those from across the river due to a generally lighter soil.  This, a fragrant beauty, has the Burgundian sensibility I call, “flavor without weight.” … Read more

($50, Consortium Wine & Spirits Imports):  Tenuta Carretta is the sole owner of 11.5-acre Garassino vineyard, a recognized MGA (Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva) or “cru” in the Treiso part of the Barbaresco zone.  It’s what the French would call a monopole.  Their well-price 2016 is elegant and understated. … Read more

($17, Elevation Wine):  There’s Dolcetto and then there’s Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba, one of the few Dolcetto areas to be awarded DOCG status, Italy’s highest category of wine.  Dolcetto from around Alba, especially Diano d’Alba, typically have more elegance than run-of-the-mill Dolcetto. … Read more

($13, Montcalm Wine Importers):  When you think of white wines from Piedmont, Chardonnay does not spring to mind.  But it is grown there and made into wine and actually has its own DOC.   Bricco dei Guazzi’s 2017 delivers lush creamy fruitiness without being heavy.  … Read more

($95):  Vietti, clearly one of Piedmont’s and Italy’s top producers and known for their stunning array of Barolo, makes only one Barbaresco, currently, according to their website.  Labeled, “Masseria,” it comes from two vineyards in Neive and Treiso.  The 2015, from a riper vintage, is gorgeous and particularly engaging at this point in its life. … Read more

($25, Vineyard Brands):  A historic estate founded in the mid-18th century by Giovan Battista Burlotto, Comm. G. B. Burlotto remains one of Piedmont’s top and most reliable producers.  (The Comm. stands for il Commandatore.)  The grape is Pelaverga Piccolo (a.k.a. Pelaverga di Verduno) because it is almost exclusive to the commune of Verduno, according to Ian D’Agata (Native Wine Grapes of Italy, University of California Press, 2014).… Read more

($60):  Rocche dei Manzoni’s regular Barolo suffers only by comparison to their exquisite single vineyard bottlings.  Indeed, it does this wine a disservice to taste it next to the others.  This Barolo shows both the elegant, floral side characteristic of the DOCG as well as the power hidden under the surface. … Read more

($90):  Rocche dei Manzoni’s Bricco San Pietro is slightly denser than their Vigna Cappella di S. Stefano, but displays the same elegance and power.  Glorious smoky and savory nuances accent and complement its gorgeous  fruitiness.  There’s not a hint of over-ripeness. … Read more

($105):  As my colleague Michael Franz points out, you need to select your 2015 Barolo carefully.  The warmth of the growing season resulted in some spectacular wines, while others might be a little over the top and lacking acidity if growers waited too long to harvest. … Read more

($28, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  Bruno Giacosa was best known for his exceptional Barbaresco and Barolo, often produced from purchased grapes.  It turns out that he produced excellent Barbera as well, as this 2015 shows.  There’s an ongoing argument as to which is better:  Barbera from Alba or from Asti? … Read more

($65):  Tenuta Carretta owns a small piece of Cannubi, arguably Barolo’s most famous vineyard.  A youthful Barolo, it delivers a haunting combination of floral elements followed by tarriness.  Paradoxically, it’s delicate, but with a substantial presence.  Its firm tannic structure is appropriate for its age and does not perturb the wine’s harmony and balance. … Read more

($60): People who think Barbaresco is a lighter version of Barolo will change their opinion after trying this wine.  A burly and broad-shouldered Barbaresco from the relatively obscure Cascina Bordino vineyard in the southern edge of Treiso, this one combines firm minerality with weight and appropriately prominent tannins. … Read more

($17, Banfi Vintners): The name, L’Altra Anima, translates literally as “other soul,” presumably in reference to Barbera being the “other” major grape of Piedmont.  It has the engaging spiciness and verve of Barbera with an unusual — and welcome — polished patina. … Read more

($14, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  Barbera is often a “go-to” wine for Italian food because its inherent acidity keeps it juicy and lively throughout the meal.  The difficulty is that the spectrum of Barbera is enormous, from astringent and hard to swallow to captivating. … Read more

($51):  This marvelous Barolo comes from grapes grown in the Cerequio and Sarmassa vineyards.  It’s classically proportioned, with a Burgundian-like sensibility of “flavor without weight.”  Elegant and refined, it packs plenty of flavor without a trace of heaviness.  Substantial, yet not aggressive tannins, in the finish remind you it’s a youthful Barolo. … Read more

($103, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  With the trio of producer, vintage and vineyard going for it, it’s not surprising that Chiarlo’s Cerequio is outstanding.  The 2013 vintage in Barolo was very successful.  Chiarlo is a top producer and Cerequio is a great vineyard. … Read more

($100, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  OMG, as good as Chiarlo’s 2013 Cerequio is, their Cannubi is just better.  It stops you in your tracks.  Chiarlo owns about 3 acres of Cannubi, which is Barolo’s most famous vineyard.  They are so selective and quality-oriented that they usually wind up using only half of their Cannubi crop for this wine. … Read more

($18):  Full disclosure: I love Barbera.  Mild tannins and bright acidity allow you to chill it in the summer, which amplifies its spicy fruity nature.  Its bold flavors hold up to hearty pasta dishes and even grilled meat.  The problem is that there is a lot of mediocre — or worse — Barbera in the market. … Read more

($19, Quintessential):  Although Piedmont is best known for its stellar red wines, it is home to excellent whites, such as this one.  The Cortese grape, from which Gavi is made, is naturally high in acidity, so the wines need enough body to balance it or they come across and tart and thin. … Read more

($15, Quintessential):  Though the Piemontese speak of Barolo and Barbaresco with reverence, they all drink Barbera d’Asti with gusto.  And this wine shows why.  Its bright red fruit flavors mingle nicely with a spiced herb component.  The naturally high acidity balances good concentration, making it energetic and lively. … Read more

($160):  From Vigna Rionda, an acclaimed vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba, Oddero has fashioned this still — at 10 years — a youthful wine.  Oddero started to label wine from this vineyard as a Riserva with the 2006 vintage and released it after 10 years of aging, five of which were in barrel. … Read more

($74):  Oddero is one of Barolo’s top producers, Rocche di Castiglione is a top site in Castiglione Falletto, and 2013 was an excellent year for Barolo, so this wine’s stature is no surprise.  Floral and pretty, it emphasizes elegance over power, although it still packs plenty of the latter. … Read more

($18, Kobrand):  One tends to forget about Chiarlo’s white wines since they make such stunning reds.  Here’s one that should not be forgotten.  Not an opulent wine, this Gavi still has good depth and is piercing, mineral-y and refined.  It is cutting and stony, a perfect foil for a tomato-based seafood dish, such as swordfish in a tomato-caper.… Read more

($102, Kobrand):  Chiarlo was largely responsible for the resurrection of this iconic vineyard in La Morra, that, according to Kerin O’Keefe, a world’s expert on Italian wine in general and Barolo in particular, laid abandoned until the 1950s even though it had been listed as a top spot in an authoritative 19th century classification of Barolo’s vineyards. … Read more

($86, Kobrand):  Chiarlo owns about 3-acres of vines in the heart of Cannubi, arguably Barolo’s most famous vineyard.  From it, they make a sensational wine. Their 2012 Cannubi combines power and elegance, just as the textbooks say.  Its wonderful aromatics and intriguing tar-like character make for an unusual pairing, but the combination is captivating and keeps you coming back for another look. … Read more

($11, Montcalm Wine Importers):  This juicy mid-weight wine is an example of why Barbera d’Asti is so popular.  Lip-smacking, cherry-like acidity enlivens the briary, spicy character of the wine’s fruitiness.  Mild tannins make it perfect for current consumption.  This is not an “important” wine, but rather one you could open on the spur of the moment — it has a screw cap, so you don’t even need a corkscrew — when a take-out pizza arrives at your door. … Read more

($13, Montcalm Wine Importers):  A more robust, richer style of Barbera, Bricco dei Guazzi’s 2013 still maintains the grape’s hallmark juicy acidity and low-ish level of tannins that makes it hard to resist.  Darker in color with a whiff of oak flavors, it a seductive, suavely textured wine that has a black, rather than red, fruit profile. … Read more

($42, Kobrand):  In addition to making noteworthy Barolo, Chiarlo, a top producer in Piedmont, also makes excellent wine from lesser known areas, such as Nizza.  Starting with the 2014 vintage, this wine will be labeled simply Nizza Riserva DOCG, since this small subzone of the Barbera d’Asti region was recently awarded DOCG status. … Read more

($17, Dalla Terra Direct): Spoiler alert.  This wine is a fantastic bargain for current consumption, even in the summer.  For starters, Vietti is one of the superstar producers in Piedmont.  Their Barolos are legendary, with comparable pricing.  Vietti’s Barberas are equally enjoyable, albeit in an entirely different manner. … Read more

($14, Montcalm Wine Importers): Although consumers mostly identify Piedmont with its noble red wines, such as Barolo and Barbaresco, the region produces a superb array of whites, such as Gavi, which are opened with far less of a drum roll.  For the Gavi di Gavi designation, all of the grapes must come exclusively from the town of Gavi, one of the 14 communes — and certainly one of the two or three best — that comprise the DOCG zone.… Read more

($65, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Sarmassa is a well-regarded cru located in the village of Barolo itself, an area where the wines are allegedly more delicate, relatively speaking (this is Barolo, after all) compared to those from Serralunga d’Alba or Montforte d’Alba. … Read more

($140, The Rare Wine Company):  Although single vineyard bottlings are all the rage in Barolo and elsewhere, Maria Teresa Mascarello continues her father’s time-honored philosophy that Barolo is best when it’s a blend of vineyards.  Mascarello’s Barolo is a blend of grapes from four vineyards they own, three in the village of Barolo itself, Rué, Cannubi, St.… Read more

($41): G.D. Vajra is one of Piedmont’s top producers.  Their name on a label is a guarantee of quality.  Freisa, on the other hand, is not so consistent.  It is a close relative of Nebbiolo and, like that grape, it has a prominent tannic structure. … Read more

($21, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Barbera is a grape made for the cool and yes, wintery, weather ahead of us.  And this one from Coppo is easy to recommend.  It’s a pleasantly gutsy wine with briary fruit, good grip and uplifting acidity. … Read more

($68, T. Edward Wines): As of 2008 Borgogno decided to bottle wines from specific vineyards separately.  Prior to that time, they blended the wines and labeled them as Barolo or Barolo Riserva.  Fossati, a cru or vineyard (as opposed to a proprietary name), is located in the village of Barolo itself. … Read more

($134, T. Edward Wines): Wines from Cannubi, one of the very best vineyards in the Barolo zone, are capable of an amazing combination of grace and power.  While some growers may attempt to capitalize on the name Cannubi to sell their wines, others aim to express the grandeur the vineyard has to offer. … Read more

($60, Palm Bay International): Gattinara, a tiny appellation of only about 250 acres in Piedmont lies north of Barolo and like its more esteemed neighbor, uses on the Nebbiolo grape exclusively.  Travaglini, who owns about 125 acres, or roughly half of the appellation and is the major producer, bottles an array of wines labeled Gattinara. … Read more

($45, Palm Bay International): Add Fontanafredda’s Serralunga d’Alba to your list of 2010 Barolo wines for your cellar.  In a decade you will not be disappointed.  The power that follows the enormous initial floral impact is unexpected, startling and then captivating. … Read more

($60, Marc de Grazia Selection): I was unfamiliar with this producer until recently when I had the opportunity to taste a range of their wines at a tasting in Boston put on by their importer.  Now, I’ll buy anything they make. … Read more

($52, Marc de Grazia Selection): Similar to many other Barolo producers, Fratelli Revello made more than one Barolo in 2010, which creates a potentially confusing situation for consumers.  This one, Gattera, is from a single vineyard in La Morra and is aged in large old barrels. … Read more

($62, Marc de Grazia Selection): Barolo experts and aficionados agree that Brunate, a vineyard than spans both communes of Barolo and La Morra, is one of the top spots in the Barolo DOCG.  Marengo owns about 3 acres of this 62-acre vineyard and from it they have produced an irresistible wine in 2010.  … Read more

($25, Marc de Grazia Selection): The Pugnane vineyard located in Castiglione Faletto, one of the important communes of Barolo, is usually planted with Nebbiolo because the grape planted in that locale makes exemplary Barolo.  Marco Marengo says the vineyard is also well suited for Barbera. … Read more

($68): Vajra’s Ravera comes from the Barolo commune (subzone) where the two different soil types of the Barolo DOCG meet.  Hence, experts say that wines from this area are the most complete Barolo because, reflecting both soils, they exhibit both power and grace. … Read more

($80): The Baudana family owns a small, 10-acre estate comprised of prized vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba, a subzone of the Barolo DOCG known for powerful wines.  Since 2009, G. D. Vajra, small but one of Barolo’s top producers, has been responsible for tending the vineyards and making the wines. … Read more

($17, The Vine Collective): Carussin, a family run estate founded in 1927, focuses on Barbera.  This one — Asinoi, an illusion to donkeys, which they also raise — is a blend from four of their vineyards.  Despite its fruit-filled profile and its concentration, it’s neither sweet nor jammy. … Read more

($20, The Vine Collective): Carussin’s Barbera labeled Lie Vi shows the importance of old vines.  From a single vineyard whose vines average about 40 years, it delivers more purity, complexity and depth without losing any of the energy of their regular — Asinoi — bottling. … Read more

($26): G. D. Vajra, one of my favorite Barolo producers, also makes excellent wines from other traditional Piedmont grapes, such as this Dolcetto.  This is an unusual Dolcetto because the vines are over 100 years old and they are planted in a two vineyards — Coste and Fossati — that actually lie in the Barolo DOCG and could be planted with Nebbiolo and sold at a far higher price. … Read more

($80, Domaine Select Wine Estates): Here’s another example of the stature of the 2010 vintage in Barolo. Serralunga, the village within the Barolo DOCG zone where the Paiagallo vineyard is located, is known for powerful wines.  Mirafiore’s certainly fits that description.… Read more

($85): Cannubi is one of the truly great vineyards in the Barolo zone.  If there were a Burgundy-like classification system of vineyards in Barolo, Cannubi would clearly be awarded the equivalent of Grand Cru status.  Combine grapes from this vineyard, the stunning 2010 vintage, and an excellent producer and… bingo, you have a stellar wine. … Read more

($17): I admit it.  I love good Barbera.  Along with Dolcetto, another workhorse grape and wine from Piedmont, Barbera is often my go-to choice at Italian restaurants because it meshes so nicely with food and almost always offers good value.  Damilano (an estate that also made excellent Barolo in 2010) made a 2013 Barbera d’Asti that’s easy to embrace. … Read more