Category Archives: Italy – Piedmont

Comm. G.B. Burlotto, Verduno Pelaverga DOC (Piedmont, Italy) 2017

($25, Vineyard Brands):  A historic estate founded in the mid-18th century by Giovan Battista Burlotto, Comm. G. B. Burlotto remains one of Piedmont’s top and most reliable producers.  (The Comm. stands for il Commandatore.)  The grape is Pelaverga Piccolo (a.k.a. Pelaverga di Verduno) because it is almost exclusive to the commune of Verduno, according to Ian D’Agata (Native Wine Grapes of Italy, University of California Press, 2014).Read more

Tenuta Carretta, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cannubi” 2012

($65):  Tenuta Carretta owns a small piece of Cannubi, arguably Barolo’s most famous vineyard.  A youthful Barolo, it delivers a haunting combination of floral elements followed by tarriness.  Paradoxically, it’s delicate, but with a substantial presence.  Its firm tannic structure is appropriate for its age and does not perturb the wine’s harmony and balance. … Read more

Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Tortoniano” 2013

($51):  This marvelous Barolo comes from grapes grown in the Cerequio and Sarmassa vineyards.  It’s classically proportioned, with a Burgundian-like sensibility of “flavor without weight.”  Elegant and refined, it packs plenty of flavor without a trace of heaviness.  Substantial, yet not aggressive tannins, in the finish remind you it’s a youthful Barolo. Read more

Michele Chiarlo, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Cerequio 2013

($102, Kobrand):  Chiarlo was largely responsible for the resurrection of this iconic vineyard in La Morra, that, according to Kerin O’Keefe, a world’s expert on Italian wine in general and Barolo in particular, laid abandoned until the 1950s even though it had been listed as a top spot in an authoritative 19th century classification of Barolo’s vineyards. Read more

Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Cannubi 2012

($86, Kobrand):  Chiarlo owns about 3-acres of vines in the heart of Cannubi, arguably Barolo’s most famous vineyard.  From it, they make a sensational wine. Their 2012 Cannubi combines power and elegance, just as the textbooks say.  Its wonderful aromatics and intriguing tar-like character make for an unusual pairing, but the combination is captivating and keeps you coming back for another look. Read more

Cantine Sant’Agata, Barbera d’Asti DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Baby” 2016

($11, Montcalm Wine Importers):  This juicy mid-weight wine is an example of why Barbera d’Asti is so popular.  Lip-smacking, cherry-like acidity enlivens the briary, spicy character of the wine’s fruitiness.  Mild tannins make it perfect for current consumption.  This is not an “important” wine, but rather one you could open on the spur of the moment — it has a screw cap, so you don’t even need a corkscrew — when a take-out pizza arrives at your door. Read more

Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore, Nizza DOC (Piedmont, Italy) La Court 2013

($42, Kobrand):  In addition to making noteworthy Barolo, Chiarlo, a top producer in Piedmont, also makes excellent wine from lesser known areas, such as Nizza.  Starting with the 2014 vintage, this wine will be labeled simply Nizza Riserva DOCG, since this small subzone of the Barbera d’Asti region was recently awarded DOCG status. Read more

Bricco dei Guazzi, Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Gavi di Gavi 2015

($14, Montcalm Wine Importers): Although consumers mostly identify Piedmont with its noble red wines, such as Barolo and Barbaresco, the region produces a superb array of whites, such as Gavi, which are opened with far less of a drum roll.  For the Gavi di Gavi designation, all of the grapes must come exclusively from the town of Gavi, one of the 14 communes — and certainly one of the two or three best — that comprise the DOCG zone.Read more

Cantina Mascarello Bartolo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2012

($140, The Rare Wine Company):  Although single vineyard bottlings are all the rage in Barolo and elsewhere, Maria Teresa Mascarello continues her father’s time-honored philosophy that Barolo is best when it’s a blend of vineyards.  Mascarello’s Barolo is a blend of grapes from four vineyards they own, three in the village of Barolo itself, Rué, Cannubi, St.Read more

G. D. Vajra, Dolcetto d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) “Coste e Fossati” 2013

($26): G. D. Vajra, one of my favorite Barolo producers, also makes excellent wines from other traditional Piedmont grapes, such as this Dolcetto.  This is an unusual Dolcetto because the vines are over 100 years old and they are planted in a two vineyards — Coste and Fossati — that actually lie in the Barolo DOCG and could be planted with Nebbiolo and sold at a far higher price. Read more

Elvio Cogno, Nascetta di Novello Langhe (Piedmont, Italy) Novello “Anas-Cëtta” 2013

($28, Wilson Daniels): It takes a bit of work to sort out the label, but it’s worth it.  Starting at the top, Elvio Cogno is a red-hot producer in Piedmont best known for their Barolo and Barbaresco.  Nascetta is an obscure variety from the Langhe thought by some to be related to Vermentino, which they’ve had in their Novello vineyard for a couple of decades. Read more