($19): New discoveries, interesting wines from place you’ve — or at least I’ve — never heard of, is one of the things I love about Italian wines. Here is yet another DOC I am unfamiliar with. You too could be excused if you are unfamiliar with Monreale, a tiny DOC comprising about 70 acres just west of Palermo. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy – Other
Another addition to the Chianti quality pyramid: tasting Rùfina’s Terraelectae wines
Federico Giuntini Masseti, president of the Chianti Rùfina Consorzio, says that the purpose of Terraelectae – Chianti Rùfina’s new top-tier category- is to highlight the special character of the Sangiovese-based wines from Rùfina’s unique terroir. The producers hope the category will allow Chianti Rùfina to emerge from Chianti Classico’s shadow and be considered a top Tuscan DOCG, like Brunello.… Read more
Luretta, Colli Piacentini DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) Malvasia Aromatica di Candia “Boccadirosa” 2020
($30, USA Wine Imports): In addition to the innumerable DOCs, the Italians use a mind-boggling number of grapes for their wines, which is another reason the wines from that country are so exciting to explore. Malvasia Aromatica di Candia had me running to Jancis Robinson’s Wine Grapes, which informed me that although Candia is an old name for Crete, there is no genetic evidence that is originated on that Greek Island. … Read more
Luretta, Gutturnio Superiore DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) 2018
($25, USA Wine Imports): One of the exciting and bewildering things about Italian wines is the ever-increasing number of DOCs that sprout like mushrooms after a rain. Gutturnio Superiore is a new one to me. Formerly a part of the Colli Piacentini, another DOC I’ve heard of but could not find on a map, Gutturnio is the northwest part of Emilia Romagna, bordering both Piedmont and Lombardy, which may explain the grapes, Barbera and Croatina, used in this wine. … Read more
Anselmet, Vallée d’Aoste DOC (Italy) Petite Arvine 2020
($40): Petite Arvine, commonly known just as Arvine, is native and almost exclusive to the Valais in Switzerland, but there are a few acres of it planted in the Aosta Valley. This one has a Viognier-like character, fruity and floral, yet not sweet. … Read more
Anselmet, Vallée d’Aoste DOC (Italy) Chardonnay “Mains et Coeur” 2019
($64): The team at Anselmet clearly thinks this is an important wine — heavy bottle, heavy wax seal that makes uncorking difficult. But this Chardonnay is worth the effort. It is a remarkably well-balanced of delicate fruitiness and minerality. There is an uplifting saline-like savoriness in the finish. … Read more
Cobue, Lugana DOC (Lombardy, Italy) “Monte Lupo” 2020
($12): Lugana, a DOC on the southern shore of Lake Garda in Northern Italy, is a name to remember for white wines. The primary grape is Turbiana, also known as Trebbiano di Lugana. Locals prefer Turbiana, the historical name, to dissociate it from the mostly down-market family of varieties and grape strains associated with the Trebbiano name. … Read more
Maison Anselmet, Vallée d’Aoste DOP (Italy) Pinot Noir “Semel Pater” 2019
($53): France meets Italy. Yes, Italy’s Aosta Valley borders France, but it is still a part of Italy. So, why is the appellation for this wine and the name of the producer in French? Shouldn’t it be DOC Valle d’Aosta and Tenuta instead of Maison? … Read more
Ferrari, TrentoDOC (Trentino, Italy) “Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore” 2008
($143, Taub Family Selections): There is no better Italian sparkling wine producer than Ferrari. Their entire line-up is Metodo Classico, that is, made with a secondary fermentation performed in the bottle, similar to the process in Champagne. Everything from their non-vintage blends to their mono-variety Chardonnays (also known as blanc de blancs) is consistently excellent and puts a smile on your face. … Read more
Castellare di Castellina (IGT Toscana) “I Sodi di S. Niccolò” 2017 (Imported by Winebow, $85) 97 Points
The 2017 vintage represents the 40th anniversary of I Sodi di S. Niccolò, a truly iconic Italian wine. It was likely the first Super Tuscans from Chianti Classico area using autochthonous grapes. It showed—and continues to show—the extraordinary heights the wines from the Chianti Classico region can reach. … Read more
Terroir is Alive and Well in Barolo
With three wines, all made from Nebbiolo grape, the Marchesi di Barolo, a top producer in Piedmont, shows the importance of terroir. The French, especially the Burgundians, have long insisted that the idea of terroir—where the grapes grow—is fundamental to the character of the wine. … Read more
The Joys of Exploring Italian Wines
One of the many things I adore about Italian wine is its seemingly limitless depth. You can always uncover a wine area or category unbeknownst to you, even if it’s been known to the Italians themselves for decades. Take, for example, Albana Romagna. … Read more
Ai Galli, Delle Venezie DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2019
($12): Ai Galli also shows their talents with a bargain-priced “entry-level,” as they call it, Pinot Grigio. Fresh and floral wine, it has a captivating delicacy. This clean crisp Pinot Grigio finishes with a welcoming hint of bitterness. And look at the price. … Read more
Cantina Kaltern, Kalterersee Classico Superiore DOC (Alto Adige, Italy) “Quintessenz” 2017
($34, Enotec Imports, Inc): Since this DOC is not well-known to most Americans (I had to run to the reference books), a little background. The DOC is named for a large lake that lies within Alto Adige. “Classico,” as usual in the Italian DOC nomenclature, refers to the original or heart of the area. … Read more
Celli, Romagna Albana Secco DOCG (Italy) “I Croppi” 2019
($20): The Albana grape is uniquely suited to the Bertinoro subregion of Romagna where Celli is located thanks to the calcium rich soil, locally known as spungone, a vestige of its underwater location 3.5 million years ago. Celli’s 2019 I Croppi is outstanding. … Read more
Domaine Antonin Guyon, Delle Venezie DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2019
($12): Ai Galli also shows their talents with a bargain-priced “entry-level,” as they call it, Pinot Grigio. Fresh and floral wine, it has a captivating delicacy. This clean crisp Pinot Grigio finishes with a welcoming hint of bitterness. And look at the price. … Read more
Travaglino, Oltrepò Pavese DOC (Lombardy, Italy) Pinot Nero Poggio della Butinera Riserva 2015
($42): Italy is not known for Pinot Nero (aka Pinot Noir) the way it is for Nebbiolo or Sangiovese. In the relatively cool Oltrepò Pavese region, the grape does well, as Travaglino shows with this 2015 Riserva. Nicely concentrated, but certainly nowhere near a New World style, it delivers both fruit flavors and savory character, the latter of which is immediately apparent in the nose and carries onto the palate. … Read more
Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Chardonnay 2019
($17, HB Wine Merchants): With rare exception, consumers don’t usually think of Italy for distinctive Chardonnay. More wines like this one could change that perception. Racy and refined, it’s paradoxically mouth-filling yet not heavy. It’s cutting and spicy profile is refreshing. … Read more
Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2019
($17, HB Wine Merchants): There’s Pinot Grigio, and then there’s Pinot Grigio. One taste of Peter Zemmer’s explains why the category is so popular. Delicate hints of white flowers greet you when you pull the cork. A refined and restrained fruitiness follows. … Read more
Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio Giatl Riserva 2017
($38, HB Wine Merchants): Peter Zemmer’s single-vineyard Giatl is a very different style of Pinot Grigio from his regular (I hate that word to describe that wine, which is anything but regular) bottling. The Giatl has power and a Burgundian-like weight and to it. … Read more
Brunello 2015: Less is More
The 2015 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino is being heralded as a 5-star vintage (the top rating) by the notoriously easy-grading Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, the trade group that represents producers in Montalcino. Retailers around the country have jumped onto the bandwagon with enthusiastic praise for the 2015 vintage. … Read more
Château Feuillet, Valle d’Aosta (Aosta, Italy) Petite Arvine 2017
($30, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant): Jan Novak, the wine director at Il Capriccio, a wonderful Italian restaurant in Waltham, just west of Boston, suggested this wine, which was unknown to me. Since she has probably forgotten more about Italian wine than I know, I agreed immediately. … Read more
Castellare di Castellina, Chianti Classico DOCG (Trentino, Italy) 2017
($22, Winebow): It’s hard to go wrong with any of the wines from Castellare di Castellina, one of the very best Chianti Classico producers. This wine, their normale or annata, is their base Chianti Classico and what high base it represents. … Read more
Ballabio, Vino Spumante di Qualità (Oltrepo Pavese, Lombardy, Italy) “Farfalla” Noir Collection, Zero Dosage NV
($22): Consumers tend to forget that Italy makes a host of sparkling wines in addition to Prosecco. And though I have nothing against Prosecco, many of Italy’s other bubblies, such as this one, provide a lot more interest. This one is positively riveting. … Read more
Foradori, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy) Manzoni Bianco “Fontanasanta” 2017
($38, Louis Dressner Selections): Manzoni Bianco is one of Italy’s botanical “crosses,” in this case a cross of Riesling and Chardonnay, made by Luigi Manzoni in the 1920s and 30s, according to Ian D’Agata (Native Wine Grapes of Italy, University of California Press, 2014). … Read more
Moser, Trento DOC (Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy) “51,151″ Brut NV
($23, Divino International Wine and Spirit): The name of the wine, “51,151”, refers to a cycling record that Francesco Moser set in Mexico City in 1984, according to their website. This 100 percent Chardonnay base bubbly is, indeed, racy (pun intended), but the elegance imparted by that grape shows, making for a lovely balance. … Read more
Cantine Leonardo da Vinci, Pignoletto Spumante DOC (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) “1502″ 2018
($20): Cantine Leonardo da Vinci, a large Tuscan-based cooperative, makes this delightful sparkling wine from the Pignoletto grape, not one that is widely known outside of central Italy. Its inherently high acidity makes it a good choice for bubbly because growers can let it ripen, allowing its exuberant floral and fruity character to shine, without it becoming sappy or flabby. … Read more
Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige – Südtirol DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2018
($15, HB Wine Merchants): Pinot Grigio spans the spectrum from innocuous or insipid to charming and noteworthy. Peter Zemmer’s is definitely in the latter group. An immediately captivating floral sensation predicts enjoyment. It has remarkable depth and persistence for a category that is all too often fleeting and bland. … Read more
Bisol, Prosecco (Italy) “Jeio” Brut NV
($14, Wilson Daniels): Prosecco has become so popular that its name has become synonymous with sparkling wine, replacing “Champagne” as that moniker. For example, on a recent flight when I requested a sparkling wine, I was offered a “Prosecco,” which turned out to be a Cava. … Read more
Principe Corsini, Vino Spumante (Italy) Brut Rosé NV
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($23): It seems that everyone wants to get in on the rosé craze. Here we have a top Tuscan producer, well-known for their stunning Chianti Classico, making a bubbly from Sangiovese. It works. This bright and fresh rosé bubbly delivers delicate hints of strawberries. … Read more
Chianti Classico: The Times They are A-Changing
With apologies to Bob Dylan, “The Times They are A-Changing” in Chianti Classico. Three decades ago, producers were embracing the use of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and other so-called “international varieties,” to bolster Sangiovese. But now, with dramatic improvements in the vineyards, growers have shown the heights that Sangiovese can achieve in Chianti Classico. … Read more
Casata Monfort, Trento (Trento-Alto Adige, Italy) Riserva 2011
($50): Consumers mistakenly believe that all bubbly coming from Italy is Prosecco. Not so. There’s fine sparkling wine from Franciacorta and this stunning one reminds us not to forget Trento. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the traditional grapes of Champagne, it has a fine bead of acidity that gives it a great spine.… Read more
Ca’Rugate, Monte Fiorentine, Soave, Classico, Soave, 2016
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I Stefanini, Monte di Fice, Soave, Classico, Soave, 2016
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Assuli, Terre Siciliane IGT (Italy) Nero d’Avola “Besi” 2014
($18): Enter a different style of Nero d’Avola. Assuli’s emphasizes the fruitier side of the grape. At 14.5 percent stated alcohol, it is riper and more lush, with fewer savory notes than the Nero d’Avola from Barone Sergio (also reviewed this week). … Read more
Nizza: A New Italian DOCG Worth Remembering
The history of the official alphabet of stratification of Italian wines–VdT, IGT, DOC, or DOCG (Vino da Tavola, Indicazione Geografica Tipica, Denominazione di Origine Controllata, and Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita)–does not inspire confidence. When Sassicaia, now an iconic Italian wine, was first released, it barely registered on the official scale, being relegated to a lowly VdT designation. … Read more
Medici Ermete, Colli Scandiano e Canossa DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) Malvasia Vino Frizzante Secco “Daphne” 2016
($18, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This is labeled Vino Frizzante Secco, which means slightly bubbly and dry. But it’s not really dry. It is aromatic, reminiscent of Moscato, but with more weight. Great acidity keeps it fresh and lively, so it doesn’t come across as cloying despite the light sweetness. … Read more
Donnafugata, Passito di Pantelleria DOC (Italy) “Ben Ryè” 2015
($35): Baldo Palermo, a representative of Donnafugata, described the island of Pantelleria as, “A volcanic rock jutting from the sea,” where the major activity is “listening to the wind.” Hence it’s appropriate that this wine is called Ben Ryè, which means son of the wind. … Read more
Medici Ermete, Reggiano Lambrusco DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “i Quercioli” NV
($12, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Lambrusco is making a dramatic comeback, judging from restaurants in New York City and elsewhere. Diligence and persistence by producers such as Medici Ermete has shown the world the joys of Lambrusco. An equal blend of Lambrusco Marani and Lambrusco Salamino, i Quercioli is a faintly fizzy, dark, almost purple, red wine with a delicate sweetness and gripping acidity. … Read more
Medici Ermete, Reggiano Lambrusco DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “Concerto” 2016
($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Medici Ermete takes Lambrusco seriously, and it shows with the quality of their wines. This one, named Concerto, is the first single vineyard Lambrusco produced. It’s made entirely from Lambrusco Salamino grown on their Rampata estate. … Read more
The ‘Cru’ of Soave: Another Attempt to Resurrect the Region
Soave, one of Italy’s great white wines, has an image problem, and, as a result, it gets no respect. Although I’m sure that must be frustrating for the producers, it’s a boon for consumers: The wines can be excellent but their prices fail to reflect their quality. … Read more
Attems, Venezia Giulia IGT (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Ramato” 2015
($18, Folio Fine Wine Partners): At first blush — no pun intended — you’d think this wine was a marketing genius, encompassing two very hot wine categories: Pinot Grigio and Rosé. But no, the pink — actually copper hue — of the wine comes from the light red color of the skins of the Pinot Grigio grape. … Read more
Lugana: The Perfect Summertime White
With their crispness and cutting acidity, the refreshing wines of Lugana, a small Denominazione Origine Controllata (DOC) on the southern edge of Lake Garda in northern Italy’s Lake District, are perfect for drinking in the summer–or year round for that matter. … Read more
Giovanna Madonia, Romagna Albana Secco DOCG (Italy) “Neblina” 2014
($19): This category of wine grabbed headlines in 1987, more because of surprise than stature, when it was awarded Italy’s first DOCG for a white wine. Known then as Albana di Romagna, there was a collective bewilderment since many other white wine DOCs seemed more appropriate for elevation to Italy’s highest level of classification. … Read more
Fontana Candida, Frascati Superiore DOCG Riserva (Lazio, Italy) “Luna Mater” 2012
($23, Banfi Vintners): Fontana Candida’s Luna Mater will transform your image of Frascati, typically a light refreshing, but otherwise undistinguished, white wine. Well, Luna Mater is certainly distinguished. It’s not just more concentrated than the usual Frascati — though it is. … Read more
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Toscana IGT (Italy) “Poggio alle Gazze” 2014
($65, Folio Fine Wines): Ornellaia’s white wines fly under the radar because their red wines are so outstanding. That situation won’t last for long. Poggio alle Gazze is an unconventional blend of roughly two-thirds Sauvignon Blanc with Vermentino, Verdicchio and Viognier. … Read more
Casale Falchini, Toscana IGT (Italy) “Paretaio” 2011
($25): A steal. Let me repeat — this wine is a steal. Falchini is perhaps best known for their lovely Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Vigna a Solatio, which at $13, is another steal, but that’s another story. Their Paretaio, a Super Tuscan in everything but the price, could easily become their calling card. … Read more
Allegrini, Veronese IGT (Italy) Palazzo della Torre 2011
($18): Allegrini, a leading Veneto producer, has adapted Amarone-like vinification to this wine, a blend of mostly Corvina and Rondinella, the grapes commonly used for Valpolicella. A small proportion of grapes are dried and added to the fresh wine the following fall, which starts another fermentation, which adds extra oomph to the wine. … Read more
Agricola Querciabella, IGT Toscana (Italy) “Camartina” 2010
($140): Founded only in 1974, Querciabella has leapt to the top tier of Tuscan producers, making an exceptional range of both red and white wines. Camartina, a blend of roughly 2/3 Cabernet Sauvignon and 1/3 Sangiovese, is their flagship red. It’s always a majestic wine, but the 2010 is even more extraordinary than usual. … Read more
Girlan, Alto Adige/ Südtirol (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2014
($20, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): This clean and fresh Pinot Blanc conveys a lovely delicacy, but has sufficient weight — and a subtle creaminess — to complement a light pasta course. Its floral and lacey character also makes it a perfect choice as either a stand-alone aperitif.… Read more