($20): There is no better producer of Vermentino than Lunae. And this light — 12.5 percent stated alcohol — and fresh IGT Vermentino, their so-called “entry level” wine, shows Lunae’s talents. A hint of minerals buttressed by saline-acidity gives this bright and zesty wine a bit of depth. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy – Liguria
Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Gris” 2022
($24): Anyone who wants to see the potential of Vermentino just needs to uncork one from Lunae. This one, which translates as Grey Label, is stunning, even though it is not their top-of-line bottling (that would be the Black Label, or Etichetta Nera. … Read more
Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2022
($42): Ok, forty plus bucks for a Vermentino is a big ask. Trust me, this is likely the best Vermentino you will ever taste. This tightly wound wonder (identified as “Etichetta Nera” or Black Label) has great power coupled with extraordinary grace. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Liguria di Levante IGT (Liguria, Italy) Ciliegiolo 2019
($35, Montcalm Wine Importers): Ciliegiolo, named supposedly because of cherry-like flavor, is a grape variety common in Tuscany where it is sometimes blended with Sangiovese in Chianti or its subzones, such as Chianti Classico. Bosoni has done a marvelous job with it as a varietal wine in Liguria, not surprisingly since this is such a talented producer. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Grigia” (Grey Label) 2020
($25, Montcalm Wine Importers): Lunae Bosoni, one of Liguria’s top producers, consistently makes a stunning line up of Vermentino wines. The 2020 maintains that tradition. Riper than usual in this vintage, this nevertheless has very energetic acidity holds everything together. An intriguing and uplifting saline touch keeps you interested and invites another sip. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) “Niccolo’ V” 2015
($30, Montcalm Wine Importers): Lunae Bosoni, the largest producer in Liguria, shows that big can be outstanding. Niccoló V, their flagship red, is named for a Pope who was born nearby the winery. A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Pollera Nera, which their website says is grown nowhere else in Italy. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Grey Label” 2018
($25, Montcalm Wine Importers): Lunae Bosoni, the largest winery in Liguria, shows that big can be beautiful. They make an exquisitely consistent line-up of Vermentino. Scents of wild herbs and spice leap from the glass of this one, their so-called entry level wine. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Numero Chiuso” 2015
($60, Montcalm Wine Importers): This, Bosoni’s “number one,” is a limited production of 2,600 bottles from a single 20-hl barrel, where the wine rested on the lees for 14 months. The lees aging adds richness and roundness, which results in a different expression of Vermentino. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Cavagino” 2017
($45, Montcalm Wine Importers): Though this Vermentino comes from three vineyards in the more highly regarded Cavagino area of the DOC, I suspect that the major difference in the wine’s character compared to Lunae Bosoni’s other Vermentinos is in the winemaking, because they have been experimenting with barrique fermentation. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Black Label” 2018
($40, Montcalm Wine Importers): I know my editor, and others, are wondering how I could possibly could give 95 points to a Vermentino. Taste it and you’ll see. As much as I like Lunae Bosoni’s “Grey Label” Vermentino, this, their so-called “Black Label,” is just better. … Read more
Cantina Lunae Bosoni, Rivera Liguria di Ponente DOC (Liguria, Italy) Pigato 2015
($24, Montcalm Wine Imports): Though Pigato is the same as the Vermentino grape, according to DNA analysis, it has a different flavor profile when transformed into wine, presumably because of where it’s planted. Indeed, Lunae’s 2015 Pigato, though equally enjoyable as their Vermentino, is different. … Read more
Cantina Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Lunae DOC (Liguria, Italy) “Niccolò V” 2010
($30, Montcalm Wine Imports): I don’t know enough about all the producers in Liguria to say that Lunae Bosoni is “the best.” But what I can say, after tasting their wines for several years now at Montcalm’s annual portfolio tasting, is that they are a superb producer. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Grigia” 2015
($25, Montcalm Wine Imports): If you see Lunae Bosoni’s name on a label, buy the wine. This producer is consistently top-notch, whether it’s a white wine, like this Vermentino, a rosé — their Mea Rosa is stunning — or a red. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Liguria di Levante IGT (Liguria, Italy) “Mea Rosa” 2015
($25, Montcalm Wine Imports): Readers know I’m not swept away by the tsunami of enthusiasm for rosé, often recommending chilling a light red instead. Well, this rosé makes me reassess my opinion of the category. Made entirely from Vermentino Nero, an autochthonous grape from Liguria, it has layers of flavor that impart character. … Read more
Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2014
($40, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Forty dollars for a Vermentino, a wine more often found in the under $20 category, is an extraordinary price. But this one, Lunae’s Black Label and the winery’s flagship, is an extraordinary wine. After tasting the 2014, I can understand why Gambero Rosso, the prestigious Italian wine guide, has awarded the wine Tre Bicchieri (their highest accolade) for six consecutive years. … Read more