($22): This is a remarkable Chardonnay. It’s rare to find a balanced Chardonnay at this price. Frequently, they’re too fruity or too oaky. This one strikes balance. It’s fruity, but not overdone, with a touch of creamy toasty oak, which, again, is not overdone. … Read more
Category Archives: USA – California
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard 2017
($50): Similar to Tongue Dancer’s 2017 Pinot Noir, their Chardonnay packs plenty of flavor. Thankfully, despite its weight and intensity, the winemaking team maintained balance with invigorating acidity that keeps the wine fresh and lively. It is lush with hints of tropical fruit-like flavors. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Putnam Vineyard “Pinot de Ville” 2017
($65): The over-weight bottle prejudiced against this wine, but that assessment disappeared with the first sip. Yes, it’s a big Pinot Noir, with savory exuberance intertwined with deep fruit flavors. Still, it does not fall into the Pinot Syrah — overdone category. … Read more
Steele, Lake County (North Coast, California) Cabernet Franc 2017
($20): Jed Steele has been a luminary in the California wine industry. He started his career 50 years ago in 1968 at Stoney Hill winery in Napa. His eponymous winery in Lake County marks its 25th anniversary with the 2017 vintage. … Read more
Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Brut NV
($24): Although I’ve not sampled every sparkling wine from California, Roederer Estate’s is my favorite. Part of the reason their wines are so good is, of course, the talent of Roederer, the French Champagne producer that owns it. But another important reason for their quality is that all of the grapes for their sparkling wines come from their vineyards, which means they have total control over the entire process from vineyard to winemaking to aging. … Read more
Raeburn Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2017
($20): Those who maintain that California Chardonnay has moved away from the rich buttery style to a more elegant, refined approach will find support for that generality with this wine. Lemony tones in the finish keeps it fresh, while delicate creamy notes remind why Chardonnay that has seen a judicious use of oak is so popular. … Read more
Eberle Winery, Paso Robles (California) Syrah Steinbeck Vineyard 2017
($30): Syrah is a Janus-like wine, showing a plummy side when the grape is grown in warmer climes and peppery notes when those same grapes are planted in a cooler location. Gary Eberle, who must be a magician, has managed to combine both in this splendid Syrah. … Read more
Fortress, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
($20): The name describes the wine. Big and bold, the tannins are suave, which makes it fine to drink now. Its ripeness imparts a hint of sweetness in the finish. It would be a good choice for highly flavored grilled beef or lamb, even in barbeque sauce.… Read more
Matanzas Creek Winery, Sonoma County (California) “Journey” Red Wine 2015
($100): A younger, more angular version of Matanzas Creek’s splendid 2012 version, the 2015 has less complexity and fewer savory notes at this stage. The tannins are a hint more apparent and perhaps a touch aggressive, yet the balance is still wonderful. … Read more
Matanzas Creek Winery, Sonoma County (California) “Journey” Red Wine 2012
($100): From the minute I pulled the bottle from its carton, I wanted to dislike it. A hundred bucks for a heavy bottle. Not a good start. But that’s why you taste. Labeled simple, “Red Wine,” it’s a Merlot-heavy blend that conveys a lot of everything — dark fruit, earthy notes — and wonderful harmony. … Read more
Jordan Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2017
($34): In a word, gorgeous. Balanced, with a touch of smoke, a touch of fruitiness and great bracing citrus acidity, which amplifies the enjoyment. The subtle fruitiness is captivating. There’s no heaviness here. The freshness keeps it intriguing throughout the meal. … Read more
Jordan Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
($57): An early harvest and a short crop describes the 2015 vintage in Sonoma. The warmth that causes an early harvest and a reduced yield can result in concentrated, powerful wines. To Jordan’s credit, they maintained their restrained style that focuses on elegance rather than weight in this Cabernet. … Read more
J Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2016
($40): This glossy Pinot Noir is pure, clean and fruit-focused. Its soft and fleshy texture, supple tannins and a hint of sweetness in the finish make it perfect for drinking now, even as a stand-alone aperitif.
88 Michael Apstein Mar 26, 2019… Read more
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir
2016 ($25): Rodney Strong first planted Pinot Noir in Russian River Valley in 1968, so the winery has experience with this grape. While basically fruit-focused, savory nuances do emerge. Though supple and smooth, there is a subtle and welcome firmness which lends needed structure to balance the ripeness. … Read more
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Knights Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
($35): With its fruit-forward profile and apparent sweet oak flavors, this moderate weight Cabernet Sauvignon will please many consumers. Supple tannins and ripe plum-like flavors add to its ready-to-drink appeal.
88 Michael Apstein Mar 26, 2019… Read more
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Symmetry” Meritage Red Wine 2014
($55): This Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant (80%) Bordeaux-style blend (with Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc making up the remainder) is far more complex than their straight Cabernets. Not overdone, it manages to be both elegant and powerful. Non-intrusive tannins provide support without a hint of aggressiveness. … Read more
Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2016
($45): Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, part of the Kendall-Jackson portfolio, prides itself on the mountainous location of its vineyards. The conventional wisdom is that higher elevation vineyards are cooler, which allows slower ripening, better flavor development and better retention of acidity. This Chardonnay, a blend from several vineyards, supports that idea. … Read more
Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Bear Point Vineyard 2016
($60): Compared to their regular (multi-vineyard blend) Chardonnay, the one from Bear Point Vineyard has better density and is more elegant. Although the concentration is what’s immediately noticeable, its elegance, especially in the finish, is what sticks in your mind. Judicious oak aging adds a subtle creaminess to its citrus-tinged flavors, making it a good choice for chicken in a creamy mushroom sauce. … Read more
Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Upper Barn Vineyard 2016
($100): Stonestreet produces single vineyard Chardonnay, which, when tasted side-by-side, are distinctly different. Whether the differences are worth the price differential is something for you and your banker to decide. Upper Barn Vineyard, at 1,800 ft elevation, must be an even cooler site because the wine is racier compared to the Bear Point Chardonnay. … Read more
Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Lyndenhurst” 2015
($82): Spottswoode’s Lyndenhurst bottling comes from a combination of their grapes that don’t make the cut for their top wine along with purchased grapes. In that sense, it’s the Bordeaux equivalent of a “second” wine. Second wines, whether in Bordeaux or California, are a good introduction to a producers’ style at a lower price. … Read more
Steele, Lake County (California) Cabernet Franc 2016
($20): This wine, like most made from Cabernet Franc, is lighter and more herbal than wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon. Less fruity with more emphasis on the savory flavors, it has lovely restraint without being austere. The balance of fruitiness and earthy qualities sings. … Read more
Spottswoode, California (United States) Sauvignon Blanc 2017
($42): Don’t let the lack of an upscale appellation deter you from this sensational Sauvignon Blanc. Although legally it must be labeled as California because less than 85 percent of the grapes came from a more particular AVA, the grapes have excellent provenance — one-third come from Napa County while two-thirds come from Sonoma County. … Read more
J Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Cuvée 20” NV
($38): Cuvée 20 was originally inaugurated to celebrate 20 years of sparkling wine production by J, founded in 1986. A blend of almost equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (with a drop of Pinot Meunier), it is now one of their beloved bottlings. … Read more
Kendall-Jackson, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Grand Reserve” 2014
($28): This is Kendall-Jackson’s mid-tier Cabernet Sauvignon, positioned between their Vintner’s Reserve and their Alexander Valley Jackson Estate bottlings. A balanced blend of five Bordeaux grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon [81%], Petit Verdot [9%], Merlot [5%], Cabernet Franc [3%] and Malbec), it’s focused on dark fruit flavors. … Read more
Kendall-Jackson, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Jackson Estate” 2014
($40): Kendall-Jackson’s Jackson Estate bottling is a giant step up from their other Cabernet Sauvignon offerings, presumably because it comes from a more rigorous selection of their grapes. With more character and complexity, it mingles olive-tinged and herbal savory elements with a dark plum or cassis-like fruitiness. … Read more
It’s not a Gambal…It Works
The newly established Gambal-Work partnership in the Sta. Rita Hills of California has just released their first wines, a pair of exquisitely exciting Chardonnays–some of the best I’ve had from California. The enterprise draws on Alex Gambal’s 25 years of experience in Burgundy, where he is still making wines under the Alex Gambal label and that of Peter Work, a Dane who has considerable experience with vineyards in the Sta.… Read more
Eberle Winery, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay Eberle Estate Vineyard 2017
($24): Gary Eberle has been making wine for decades, having founded his eponymous estate in 1982. His experience shows in his wines, both this charm-filled Chardonnay and in his equally impressive Cabernet Sauvignon. With his 2017 Chardonnay he walks the line beautifully between delivering too little and too much. … Read more
Jason-Stephens Winery, Santa Clara Valley (Central Coast, California) Meritage 2014
($34): While Jason-Stephens’ Cabernet and Merlot bottlings exhibit savory elements that complement their dark fruitiness, this bottling embraces bold fruitiness. A ripe blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Merlot (30%), with equal parts of Malbec, Carmenere, Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc, it weighs in at 15.1 percent stated alcohol. … Read more
Jason-Stephens Winery, Santa Clara Valley (Central Coast, California) Merlot 2014
($24): Intriguing and welcome leafy and herbal nuances, a hallmark of real Merlot, complements the dark fruitiness that otherwise dominates. A hint of chocolate, presumably from oak aging, either enhances or detracts, depending on your point of view. The silky tannins in this blend of Merlot (85%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and Malbec make it ideal for current consumption. … Read more
Jason-Stephens Winery, Santa Clara Valley (Central Coast, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
($28): Though the focus is firmly on dark fruit flavors, lovely olive-tinged savory notes come through in this Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant (76%) Bordeaux-blend. Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc round out the blend. The oak influence is better integrated at this stage compared to their Merlot. … Read more
Freemark Abbey, Rutherford, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($70): Freemark Abbey, one of the iconic Napa Valley Cabernet producers, continues their streak with this concentrated and deep 2013 rendition. Under its hulking frame lies elegance and refinement. The tannins have a lovely dusty quality, appropriate for a youthful Rutherford Cabernet. … Read more
Eberle Winery, Paso Robles (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Vineyard Selection” 2016
($25): Lovely herbal elements balance and enhance the dark fruit flavors in this Cabernet. Lip-smacking acidity imparts life and energy. Although a generous Cabernet, it is not out-sized. The “not just fruit” savory notes add complexity and supple tannins allow current consumption. … Read more
Arrowood Vineyards and Winery, Knights Valley, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
($35): Knights Valley of Sonoma County has long been known as an excellent site for Cabernet Sauvignon. With good depth and length, this wine supports that region’s reputation. Subtle herbal notes accent its ripe dark fruit focus. Polished tannins mean it’s fine to drink this winter. … Read more
French Bar, California (United States) Petite Sirah Rock Creek Family Vineyards 2016
($20): Petite Sirah is a difficult variety to tackle, with producers often overdoing everything. French Bar manages to contain themselves with this one. Weighing in at a modest — at least by Petite Sirah standards — stated 14.2 percent alcohol, this one is still robust, but with an enhancing spiciness that actually modulates its power. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2017
($36): Merry Edwards is clearly a very talented winemaker because not only does she produce stunning Pinot Noirs, she also makes incredible Sauvignon Blanc. Her 2017 seamlessly balances a subtle and welcome bite characteristic of the variety with a creamy, mineral-infused elegance to produce a dazzling array of flavors. … Read more
Kendall-Jackson, California (United States) Chardonnay “Vintner’s Reserve” 2017
($17): Some would say that Kendall-Jackson (or “KJ” as it is sometimes called) created or at least stimulated America’s love-affair with Chardonnay with their “Vintner’s Reserve” decades ago. It has since become this country’s best-selling Chardonnay for 25 years, according to their website. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2016
($48): The line-up of five 2016 Pinot Noirs from Merry Edwards is her best ever, in my opinion. The five include this one from the Sonoma Coast, three single vineyard ones, Klopp Ranch, Flax Vineyard and Meredith Estate, from the Russian River Valley, and one labeled just “Vintage 20,” a blend of her top barrels from those and other vineyards she created to celebrate her 20th vintage. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2016
($63): In terms of density, Merry Edwards 2016 Pinot Noir from the Flax Vineyard falls in between that of the one from the Sonoma Coast and the Klopp Ranch. It delivers a wonderfully complex combination of red fruit flavors, spice and herbs. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2016
($66): Merry Edwards’ Pinot Noir from the Klopp Ranch is spectacular, delivering black fruit-like power seasoned beautifully with spice and minerals. With all its density, it’s still fresh and thankfully does not venture into the “Pinot-Syrah” category. Despite its power, it’s paradoxically still restrained and amazingly complex. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2016
($68): Merry Edwards’ Meredith Estate Pinot Noir is always one of my favorites in her line-up. Is it a stand out because it’s one of her own vineyards, purchased and planted about 20 years ago? Whatever the reason, the 2016 is particularly magnificent. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “20th Vintage” 2016
($120): This special bottling, a blend of the best barrels from selected vineyards, celebrates Merry Edwards’ 20th vintage under her name. Aside from the sheer deliciousness of the wine, it makes an important point — single vineyard wines are not always superior to those made from a blend of several vineyards. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard 2016
($50): Tongue Dancer, the project of experienced winemaker James MacPhail and Kerry MacPhail, is an odd name for a wine but is supposed to evoke the image of wines that dance on your tongue. If the name sounds odd, the label is even weirder. … Read more
Steele, Red Hills, Lake County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
($28): What’s particularly impressive about this Cabernet Sauvignon is the complexity and poise it delivers for the price. It should be surprise because of Jed Steele’s experience and the source of the grapes. The Red Hills part of Lake County is a relatively new AVA. … Read more
ZD Wines, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
($75): ZD has produced a quintessential Napa Valley Cabernet and shows, once again, why that region is one of the best places in the world for that grape. It’s a powerful Cabernet — it is from California, after all — but it has elegance and is not overdone. … Read more
Steele, Carneros (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard 2016
($36): Jed Steele has captured the lovely delicacy and subtle savory notes that are the hallmarks of Pinot Noir. Lively acidity keeps it fresh, while fine tannins allow enjoyment now, without additional bottle aging. It finishes with a hint of sweetness, which allows you to enjoy a glass by itself while preparing to grill the salmon.… Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) “The Mariner” 2014
($52): This is a Cabernet-based powerhouse Bordeaux blend that includes, in addition to that grape, Petit Verdot, Malbec (yes, it used to be, and still is, planted in Bordeaux), and Cabernet Franc. Despite its depth and power, the finely polished tannins allow for current consumption. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Old Vine Zinfandel 2016
($22): Full disclosure, I generally do not like Zinfandel, so I may be under scoring this wine. This is a masterful blend of Zinfandel (78%) from dry-farmed, 95-plus year old vineyards, Petite Sirah and Carignan. Dry-farmed vineyards ensure that the roots of the vines go deep to find water and presumably other compounds that add to the flavor of the grapes and, subsequently, to the wine. … Read more
Dutton Estate, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch “Karmen Isabella” 2016
($46): There’s plenty going on in the broad-shouldered Pinot Noir. Savory leafy elements and spice complement and offset the ripe black fruit notes. Suave supple tannins lend support without being intrusive. A touch of heat in the finish — from the 14.2 percent stated alcohol — perturbs this otherwise nicely balanced wine.… Read more
Dutton Estate, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Dutton Ranch “Kyndall’s Reserve” 2016
($42): With its 14.7 percent stated-alcohol, this is a broad-shouldered Chardonnay. Fruit-focused and framed with subtle flavors from oak aging, it is actually balanced considering its size. Its overt, up-front flavors would go well with sautéed veal or a roast chicken.… Read more
La Crema, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2016
($25): La Crema sources the grapes for this Pinot Noir from the potentially better-suited vineyards on the Sonoma Coast. Compared to their Monterey bottling, the sweetness in this one is replaced by bright, ripe red fruit notes mixed with alluring herbal and leafy flavors. … Read more