Category Archives: USA – California

Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Brut NV

($24):  Although I’ve not sampled every sparkling wine from California, Roederer Estate’s is my favorite.  Part of the reason their wines are so good is, of course, the talent of Roederer, the French Champagne producer that owns it.  But another important reason for their quality is that all of the grapes for their sparkling wines come from their vineyards, which means they have total control over the entire process from vineyard to winemaking to aging. Read more

Rodney Strong Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Symmetry” Meritage Red Wine 2014

($55):  This Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant (80%) Bordeaux-style blend (with Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc making up the remainder) is far more complex than their straight Cabernets.  Not overdone, it manages to be both elegant and powerful. Non-intrusive tannins provide support without a hint of aggressiveness. Read more

Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2016

 ($45):  Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, part of the Kendall-Jackson portfolio, prides itself on the mountainous location of its vineyards.  The conventional wisdom is that higher elevation vineyards are cooler, which allows slower ripening, better flavor development and better retention of acidity.  This Chardonnay, a blend from several vineyards, supports that idea. … Read more

Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Bear Point Vineyard 2016

($60):  Compared to their regular (multi-vineyard blend) Chardonnay, the one from Bear Point Vineyard has better density and is more elegant.  Although the concentration is what’s immediately noticeable, its elegance, especially in the finish, is what sticks in your mind. Judicious oak aging adds a subtle creaminess to its citrus-tinged flavors, making it a good choice for chicken in a creamy mushroom sauce.  … Read more

Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Upper Barn Vineyard 2016

($100):  Stonestreet produces single vineyard Chardonnay, which, when tasted side-by-side, are distinctly different. Whether the differences are worth the price differential is something for you and your banker to decide.  Upper Barn Vineyard, at 1,800 ft elevation, must be an even cooler site because the wine is racier compared to the Bear Point Chardonnay.  … Read more

Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Lyndenhurst” 2015

($82):  Spottswoode’s Lyndenhurst bottling comes from a combination of their grapes that don’t make the cut for their top wine along with purchased grapes.  In that sense, it’s the Bordeaux equivalent of a “second” wine.  Second wines, whether in Bordeaux or California, are a good introduction to a producers’ style at a lower price. … Read more

Kendall-Jackson, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Grand Reserve” 2014

($28):  This is Kendall-Jackson’s mid-tier Cabernet Sauvignon, positioned between their Vintner’s Reserve and their Alexander Valley Jackson Estate bottlings.  A balanced blend of five Bordeaux grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon [81%], Petit Verdot [9%], Merlot [5%], Cabernet Franc [3%] and Malbec), it’s focused on dark fruit flavors. … Read more

Kendall-Jackson, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Jackson Estate” 2014

($40):  Kendall-Jackson’s Jackson Estate bottling is a giant step up from their other Cabernet Sauvignon offerings, presumably because it comes from a more rigorous selection of their grapes.  With more character and complexity, it mingles olive-tinged and herbal savory elements with a dark plum or cassis-like fruitiness. … Read more

It’s not a Gambal…It Works

The newly established Gambal-Work partnership in the Sta. Rita Hills of California has just released their first wines, a pair of exquisitely exciting Chardonnays–some of the best I’ve had from California.  The enterprise draws on Alex Gambal’s 25 years of experience in Burgundy, where he is still making wines under the Alex Gambal label and that of Peter Work, a Dane who has considerable experience with vineyards in the Sta.… Read more

Jason-Stephens Winery, Santa Clara Valley (Central Coast, California) Meritage 2014

($34):  While Jason-Stephens’ Cabernet and Merlot bottlings exhibit savory elements that complement their dark fruitiness, this bottling embraces bold fruitiness.  A ripe blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Merlot (30%), with equal parts of Malbec, Carmenere, Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc, it weighs in at 15.1 percent stated alcohol. … Read more

Jason-Stephens Winery, Santa Clara Valley (Central Coast, California) Merlot 2014

($24):  Intriguing and welcome leafy and herbal nuances, a hallmark of real Merlot, complements the dark fruitiness that otherwise dominates.  A hint of chocolate, presumably from oak aging, either enhances or detracts, depending on your point of view.  The silky tannins in this blend of Merlot (85%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and Malbec make it ideal for current consumption.   … Read more

French Bar, California (United States) Petite Sirah Rock Creek Family Vineyards 2016

($20): Petite Sirah is a difficult variety to tackle, with producers often overdoing everything.   French Bar manages to contain themselves with this one.  Weighing in at a modest — at least by Petite Sirah standards — stated 14.2 percent alcohol, this one is still robust, but with an enhancing spiciness that actually modulates its power.  … Read more

Merry Edwards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2016

 

 ($48): The line-up of five 2016 Pinot Noirs from Merry Edwards is her best ever, in my opinion.  The five include this one from the Sonoma Coast, three single vineyard ones, Klopp Ranch, Flax Vineyard and Meredith Estate, from the Russian River Valley, and one labeled just “Vintage 20,” a blend of her top barrels from those and other vineyards she created to celebrate her 20th vintage. … Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2016

 ($66):  Merry Edwards’ Pinot Noir from the Klopp Ranch is spectacular, delivering black fruit-like power seasoned beautifully with spice and minerals.  With all its density, it’s still fresh and thankfully does not venture into the “Pinot-Syrah” category.  Despite its power, it’s paradoxically still restrained and amazingly complex. … Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “20th Vintage” 2016

 

($120):  This special bottling, a blend of the best barrels from selected vineyards, celebrates Merry Edwards’ 20th vintage under her name.  Aside from the sheer deliciousness of the wine, it makes an important point — single vineyard wines are not always superior to those made from a blend of several vineyards. … Read more

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Old Vine Zinfandel 2016

($22):  Full disclosure, I generally do not like Zinfandel, so I may be under scoring this wine.  This is a masterful blend of Zinfandel (78%) from dry-farmed, 95-plus year old vineyards, Petite Sirah and Carignan.  Dry-farmed vineyards ensure that the roots of the vines go deep to find water and presumably other compounds that add to the flavor of the grapes and, subsequently, to the wine. Read more

Dutton Estate, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch “Karmen Isabella” 2016

($46):  There’s plenty going on in the broad-shouldered Pinot Noir.  Savory leafy elements and spice complement and offset the ripe black fruit notes.  Suave supple tannins lend support without being intrusive.  A touch of heat in the finish — from the 14.2 percent stated alcohol — perturbs this otherwise nicely balanced wine.Read more