($45):  It should come as no surprise that Gambal-Work’s Chardonnay should be outstanding, considering the beauty of Alex Gambal’s white Burgundies.  This tightly wound one from the Bentrock vineyard displays a chalky minerality reminiscent of a top Chassagne-Montrachet.  Youthful and reticent, it needs time in the glass to express itself. … Read more

($65):  The Gambal is Alex Gambal, an American who moved to Burgundy in 1993, worked for a wine broker in Beaune, attended enology school there, and eventually established his eponymous winery in 1997.  Over the ensuing 20+ years, he made an array of excellent Burgundies and established himself as a top small producer. … Read more

($65):  The darker, more mineral profile of Gambal-Work’s Bentrock Pinot Noir is reminiscent of a Burgundy from the Côtes de Nuits.  It has the same splendid duality that the Francesca Pinot Noir conveys, but with more black (rather than red) fruit and a deeper, more tar-like mineral component, reflecting a warmer site. … Read more

($20):  Given the massive character of their Cabernet Sauvignon, I expected Sequoia Grove’s Chardonnay to follow in that style, but it doesn’t.  It delivers a balanced package of both richness and restraint.  Good acidity keeps it fresh.  But it’s not so aggressive that you couldn’t enjoy a glass by itself before dinner. … Read more

($46):  Again, an over-sized bottle accurately predicts the size of the wine.  Ripe dark fruit flavors and even a hint of chocolate lead in this robust Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.  A few savory notes — spice and herbs — peek out as it sits in the glass. … Read more

($110):  Sullivan Rutherford Estate has included a splash of Merlot (20 percent) and a seasoning of Petit Verdot (2 percent) in this refined Cabernet Sauvignon bottling.  It delivers appealing complexity — a bit of everything and not too much of anything. … Read more

($54):  The grapes for this refined and reserved Chardonnay come from two cool sites.  Roughly two-thirds come from Bald Mountain Vineyard, which is dry farmed and sits atop the second highest point of the Mayacamas Mountains.  The other third comes from the Thornton Vineyard, a cool spot that sits at the base of the Sonoma Mountain. … Read more

($32):  It is no surprise that Roederer Estate makes an exceptional line of sparkling wines in California since they are owned by the quality-driven French Champagne house of Roederer.  In my opinion, Roederer Estate and Schramsberg are California’s best sparkling wine producers. … Read more

($25):  This suave and restrained wine is emblematic of the change in California Chardonnay.  Still fruit focused, it has, thankfully, lost the opulent oaky and sweet character that has given Chardonnay such a bad name.  Good acidity keeps it bright and energetic, making the last sip is as enjoyable as the first. … Read more

($19):  Showing lots of sweet oaky flavors at this stage makes this Sonoma County Zinfandel from Rodney Strong a good choice for smoky BBQ because the sweetness offsets the spice.  Though not over-extracted or overdone, the richness of the wine still has plenty of oomph will stand up to the meat and its accompanied sauce.… Read more

($26):  Dry Creek Vineyard is as reliable a California producer as you can find.  The quality and consistency of their wines reflect the five decades they’ve been at it in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley.  Full disclosure: Zinfandel and Petite Sirah are two of my least favorite varieties because they are all too often overblown. … Read more

($59):  This is one of Gary Farrell’s notable wines in their line-up of consistently impressive single vineyard Pinot Noir.  This mid-weight wine delivers a gorgeous and seamless synthesis of fruit and savory notes.  With marvelous complexity and a glossy texture, it’s a delight to drink now. … Read more

($38):  Dry Creek Vineyard continues their streak of balanced, not overblown, wines with their 2019 bottling of their Old Vine Zinfandel.  It combines an alluring amalgam of subtle sweetness with spicy elements.  Its suave texture makes it immediately enjoyable.  It would be a good choice for spicy Mexican food.… Read more

($50):  Dry Creek Vineyard’s Bordeaux-blend, labeled Mariner, has always been a bargain among that category of California wine.  Their 2018 follows in that tradition.  A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (2/3rds) with Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdon and Cabernet Franc filling out the other third, it is a muscular, but not overwrought, wine. … Read more

($69):  Far Mountain is a new project by two Chileans who have a vast experience in the wine business, the husband and wife team of Mai Errazuriz and Rodrigo Soto.  Mai, from the family that founded Viña Errazuriz, a leading Chilean producer, also has experience in California as marketing director for Quintessa. … Read more

($16):  Easy to sip, this fleshy and fruity Sonoma County Merlot from Rodney Strong displays ripe plum-like flavors wrapped in suave tannins.  It’s especially fine for those who relish a glass of red wine before a meal.
87 Michael Apstein Dec 7, 2021… Read more

($17):  Compared to Rodney Strong’s Sonoma County Merlot, this 2018 Cabernet displays more savory — olive-like — notes, as befitting that variety.  It’s still fruit-focused, but with more structure.  Suavely texture, it’s perfect for current consumption.  Have a sip of their 2017 Merlot before dinner and take this Cabernet to the table.… Read more

($58):  Davis Bynum’s Dutton Ranches bottling offers sweeter and riper notes, with more fruitier elements and fewer savory ones compared to their straight Russian River bottling.  It is a more muscular and juicy wine that finishes a touch sweet.  People who crave power in Pinot Noir will embrace it.… Read more

($35):  Davis Bynum was a pioneer with Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley, being the first to bottle a single vineyard example of that wine almost 50 years ago.  This one, despite a stated alcohol of 14.5 percent, is balanced and not overblown or overdone. … Read more

($21):  Rodney Strong’s Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon takes several giant steps up in interest and complexity from the Sonoma County bottling, but thankfully, not at the cost of a big jump in price.  Since the winemaking is similar, this bottling shows the importance of the origin of the grapes. … Read more

($59):  Jordan, a leader in California Cabernet, continues to do what it does best — making graceful and elegant Cabernet Sauvignon.  As usual, their 2017 is fits that mold.  Not a bombastic wine, this mid-weight beauty delivers a wonderful combination of red fruit notes and spice. … Read more

($30):  Sonoma-Cutrer, a leading Sonoma producer, bottles a bevy of Pinot Noirs.  This, their “entry level” offering, is a good example of Russian River Pinot Noir.  Though fruit-focused, attractive earthy, leafy notes appear with air and add complexity.  Its fruitiness comes through in the finish as a hint of sweetness. … Read more

($36):  Jordan continues to do what they have always done and do best.  They make two wines, a Cabernet Sauvignon and this one, a Chardonnay.  There are no reserve wines, no special bottlings, no block selections.  All their talents and energy go into those two wines. … Read more

($43):  This mid-weight blend of Grenache (51%), Mourvèdre (34%) and Syrah brings together strawberry-like fruitiness, some spice and earthy notes.  Its angular acidity, likely secondary to a touch of added tartaric acid (gleaned from ingredient labeling) prevents it from being jammy or coming across as sweet. … Read more

($27):  Tablas Creek Vineyard needs no introduction to wine lovers.  This property, founded in 1989 by the Perrin family of Château Beaucastel (an iconic Châteauneuf-du-Pape producer) in partnership with wine importer Robert Hass of Vineyard Brands, was a pioneer and leading force in what is now California’s success with Rhone-type varieties. … Read more

($16):   Dry Creek Vineyard has been making a dry Chenin Blanc for since their founding, almost 50 years ago because David Stare, Dry Creek’s founder, fell in love with wines from the Loire Valley — where Chenin Blanc is king.  Dry Creek’s 2018 continues its streak as a consistently delightful wine. … Read more

($16):   Dry Creek Vineyard has been making a dry Chenin Blanc for since their founding, almost 50 years ago because David Stare, Dry Creek’s founder, fell in love with wines from the Loire Valley — where Chenin Blanc is king.  Dry Creek’s 2018 continues its streak as a consistently delightful wine. … Read more

($30):  Why is this wine so captivating?  Maybe it’s because the grapes came from dry-farmed organic vineyards.  Or maybe because they came from old vines.  Or maybe it’s the unique field blend of Carignan and French Colombard, which is then blended with Grenache. … Read more

($38):  Though the oak in this large-framed Chardonnay is immediately noticeable — a hint of bacon fat — it is not intrusive or overwhelming.  Indeed, it’s a balanced wine redolent with melon-like fruitiness and bright acidity that keeps it fresh and you coming back for more. … Read more

($36):   Though the winery was founded in 1978, it has slipped under my radar until now.  I’m glad that’s changed.  This restrained style of Chardonnay has plenty going on.  It’s just not in-your-face.  Indeed, its many charms appear after it sits in the glass for a half hour. … Read more

($32):  Similar to Dry Creek Valley’s Sauvignon Blanc, their DCV Block 10 Chardonnay is a study in balance.  They manage barrel fermentation and aging judiciously so that just a wisp of oak-scented creaminess comes through, harmonizing with the fruitiness of the grape without overpowering it. … Read more

($17):  Dry Creek vineyard draws on their nearly half-century experience in Dry Creek Valley to fashion beautifully balanced wines that speak rather than scream.  This Sauvignon Blanc has a bit — but not too much — of the bite characteristic of the grape variety. … Read more

($24):  The name of the winery, Center of Effort, is a sailing term, which, to my non-nautical brain, means the wind hits the sail in exactly the right place.  This well-price Chardonnay, which they call an introduction to their estate, hits all the right notes. … Read more

($35):  Nathan Carlson from Center of Effort insists that Edna Valley is ideally suited for Chardonnay.  And indeed, Chardonnay is the most planted grape in the area, according to him.  Judging from this five-year old wine, I agree that Edna Valley is an ideal place for this variety. … Read more

($45):  Despite its 14.5 percent stated-alcohol, Sosie (pronounced so-zee) is fresh and lively, not overdone at all.  Paradoxically, there’s almost a lovely austere character to it.  Firm, not hard, tannins frame its racy red fruit flavors.  Mineral-like notes — you can almost taste the volcanic soil — and a pleasing hint of bitterness in the finish adds to its allure. … Read more

($38):  Full disclosure: Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, which comprise 99 percent of the blend of this wine, are among my least favorite varieties because, when converted to wine, they often display power and little else.  So, imagine my surprise when I discovered how well Dry Creek Vineyard manages them. … Read more

($45):  Gary Farrell is a winery known for brilliant single vineyard Pinot Noirs, which show that terroir is alive and well in California.  This one, however, is a blend to represent the Russian River Valley in general — and it does. … Read more

($90):  Though Coeur de Vigne might suggest highly selected grapes and an over-extracted precious wine, this one is not.  Though more immediately appealing — slightly softer and rounder — than their Estate Bottling (previously reviewed), it displays the classic savory-ripe dark fruit mixture for which top Napa Valley Cabernet is known. … Read more

($48):   Lovely savory, olive-like notes balance the dark fruitiness of this big bold and broad Cabernet.  Fine tannins provide structure without being astringent or intrusive.  There’s a delightful hint of bitterness in the finish to emphasize this is not a “fruit bomb.” … Read more

($25):  A whiff of savory notes peek out from the ripe Sonoma fruit lending intrigue to this Pinot Noir.  A touch of heat and sweetness in the finish reflects the stated 14.5 percent alcohol.  Mild tannins allow you to enjoy it with grilled salmon.… Read more

($32): Dry Creek Vineyard, still owned by the Stare family, is approaching their half-century mark of making wine in Dry Creek Valley.  Though I’ve always been a fan of their balanced wines, I think they are just getting better and better. … Read more

($38):  Merry Edwards, one of California top Pinot Noir producers, is also making a name for herself with Sauvignon Blanc.   Edwards’ working with Sauvignon Blanc should come as no surprise since she was responsible for the legendary ones from Matanzas Creek when she was the winemaker there. … Read more

($22):  It is not surprising that Rodney Strong’s Chalk Hill Chardonnay continues to be an outstanding wine.  If anyone knows where to grow Chardonnay in Sonoma, it’s Rodney Strong.  He was bottling a Chardonnay under that label before there even was a Chalk Hill AVA. … Read more

($55):  Symmetry, according to Rodney Strong’s website, means balance.  And I must admit, this wine is aptly named.  It’s a suave complex Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant (70%) blend of five Bordeaux varieties.  Roughly equal amounts of Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot fill out the blend. … Read more

($54):  Changes abound at Merry Edwards Winery, one of California’s leading Pinot Noir producers.  In 2019, Louis Roederer, the Champagne house, purchased the winery.  With the 2018 vintage, Heidi von der Mehden, who worked with Merry Edwards since 2015, took the reins as winemaker. … Read more

($110):   This is, in a word, a powerhouse.  But along with all the deep black fruit there’s an appealing tar-like mineral and earthy component.  Substantial but not intrusive tannins support the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (87 percent) and Petit Verdot.  A youthful wine, it needs to sit in the glass to appreciate its complexity. … Read more

($60):  The riper and deeper Merry Edwards Russian River Valley bottling, whose fruit comes from a variety of vineyards in that warmer AVA, is a fascinating contrast to their Sonoma Coast bottling.  A weightier wine with black rather than red fruit tones, the Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is juicy and well within bounds despite a 14.5 percent-stated alcohol. … Read more

($73):  The floral 2018 Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir displays a gorgeous, layered complexity, with minerality and dark fruitiness intertwined.  It conveys far more mineral-like nuances than the Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Pinot, reflecting the focus of a single vineyard.  Hefty intensity without being over the top coupled with suave tannins and an engaging bitterness in the finish make it hard to resist now.… Read more

($80):  Unlike the Merry Edwards Klopp Ranch and Olivet Lane Pinot Noirs, the youthful 2018 Meredith Estate displays toasty oak flavors but little else initially.  However, befitting a youthful, tightly wound wine, its considerable charms emerge over time.  Denser and more concentrated than the other two, it remains balanced and within bounds. … Read more