($34, Vintus): 
This mid-weight Sauvignon Blanc shows that where the grapes grow, Collio in this instance, matters. The energetic Cicinis subtly combines the characteristic pungency of Sauvignon Blanc with a delicate creaminess. A hint of bitterness in the finish balances appealing floral and peachy elements. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Langlois-Chateau, Crémant de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Brut NV
($24, Vintus): 
First a bit of trivia. Note the absence of a “hat” accent over the a in Chateau. That’s because it’s not a building but rather a proper name. In 1912, Edouard Langlois and Jeanne Chateau founded what has become the standard bearer of Loire Valley sparkling wines. … Read more
Loveblock Vintners, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Tee” 2022
($22, Terlato Wines International): 
The owners of Loveblock Vintners, Erica and Kim Crawford, are certainly no newcomers to New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, having established the very popular Kim Crawford label. Loveblock Vintners is their new venture, after selling the Kim Crawford brand to Vincor which eventually was gobbled up by Constellation Brands. … Read more
Domaine Pernot Belicard, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2021
($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs): 
I repeat what I’ve said before: Value in Burgundy these days is found at the lower pedigree appellations made by talented producers. Pernot Belicard is a great example of a top producer bottling exceptional white wines at every pedigree. … Read more
Xanadu, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay “Circa 77” 2021
($18, RWG USA): 
The 77 moniker refers to 1977, the year Dr. John Lagan, an Irishman, founded Xanadu. This light, fresh Chardonnay, weighing in at only 12.5 percent stated alcohol, will delight those who avoid the opulent buttery style of that varietal. … Read more
Xanadu, Margaret River (Western Australia) Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon “Vinework” 2022
($27, RWG USA): 
Glenn Goodall, Xanadu’s winemaker, explains that the blend, two-thirds Sauvignon Blanc and one-third Semillon, is the signature of Western Australia, especially the Margaret River. He treats the varieties differently, “no witchcraft” as he puts it for the Semillon, simply tank fermentation. … Read more
Xanadu, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay “Vinework” 2021
($27, RWG USA): 
Xanadu’s rich and luxurious Vinework Chardonnay bookends beautifully with their Circa 77. It is plush yet not heavy. It may not have the alluring minerality of white Burgundy, but it does have the Burgundian sensibility of flavor without weight, as the 12.5 percent stated alcohol reflects. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2022
($18): 
Iris Vineyards does it again with their racy and sleek 2022 Pinot Gris. Despite a modest 11.5 percent state alcohol, this light-weight wine packs a pleasing punch. Floral and bright, it dances on the palate, revealing delicate hint of pears and stone fruit flavors. … Read more
Mount Veeder Winery, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2021
($50): 
Mount Veeder Winery, justifiably known for their Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet blends, has released their first Chardonnay — and it’s a resounding success. Opulent but not overdone, it displays a buttery richness supported by uplifting acidity and energy. It even displays a welcome hint of bitterness in the finish, reinforcing the sensory impression that it’s not a fruit bomb. … Read more
Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2021
($33, Frescobaldi): 
Though I have always been impressed by any of Frescobaldi’s Chianti Rufina — after all they are THE name in that appellation — I remember being disappointed when I tasted their first vintage of Chianti Classico a few years ago. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2021
($22, Kobrand): 
Value in Burgundy these days is found at the lower pedigree appellations made by talented producers. Enter this Bourgogne Rouge from Jadot. With an engaging combination of savory notes intertwined with hints of red and black fruit, this mid-weight wine is real Burgundy, or Bourgogne as the French would prefer to call it. … Read more
Caprio Cellars, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) “Sanitella” Estate Red Wine 2020
($88): 
An unnecessarily heavy bottle forecasts a hefty wine, which it is. A Cabernet Sauvignon-heavy blend pumped up with Malbec and Merlot, it delivers riper black fruit notes wrapped with suave tannins. Despite a richer and deeper profile compared to Caprio’s “Eleanor” bottling, it still has an engaging and balancing bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Conde Valdemar, Rioja Crianza (Spain) Tempranillo 2018
($20): 
It’s hard to beat Rioja for satisfying mid-weight well-priced reds. Take this delightful example. Conde Valdemar has made a seamless combination of dark fruitiness touched by a kiss of seductive oak, all enlivened by lip-smacking acidity. Fine tannins make this bright and fresh beauty great for current drinking with anything from a roast chicken and mushrooms to skirt steak fresh from the grill.… Read more
Duca di Salaparuta, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Grillo “Calanica” 2022
($18): 
It is no surprise that Duca di Salaparuta, one of Sicily’s leading producers, makes a delightful wine from Grillo, one of Sicily’s indigenous white grapes. This crisp and clean light-weight beauty cries for fish or shellfish. A saline-like acidity and hint of bitterness in the finish imparts a surprising length. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Ruelles 2015
($50): 
This delightful wine shows that value in Burgundy is alive and well. Owned by the Devillard family, the Château de Chamirey is one of, if not THE, leading estates in Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise, just south of the Côte d’Or. … Read more
Frenzy, New Zealand () Sauvignon Blanc 2022
($15, Wilson Daniels): 
The Marlborough region of New Zealand’s south island is responsible for the acclaim, enthusiasm, and world-wide excitement for that country’s Sauvignon Blanc. That region does make distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. But, as this wine shows, Marlborough does not have a monopoly on distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Santenay (Burgundy, France) Clos des Gatsulards 2020
($51, Kobrand): 
Domaine Gagey in the rectangle at the bottom of the label means that the Gagey family, the longtime directors of Maison Jadot, owns the property. So, in essence, this is an estate wine as opposed to a négociant wine for which Jadot would have purchased the grapes from another grower. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) 2020
($26, Kobrand): 
In a word, delicious! And an extraordinary value. You rarely see Burgundy of this quality at this price. Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, takes advantage of a relatively new appellation, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, which means all the grapes came from the famed Côte d’Or part of Burgundy, rather than the region’s less prestigious subzones. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) “Celebration” 2020
($63, Kobrand): 
Jadot started this unconventional, by Burgundy standards, bottling with the 2009 vintage to celebrate its 150th anniversary. Contrary to the Burgundy mantra of terroir — a specific delineated location is paramount — Jadot blends wine from upwards of 15 individual premier cru vineyards within Beaune, to produce a wine representative of the best Beaune has to offer (there are no Grand Cru vineyards in Beaune.) … Read more
Vino Vasai, Laurelwood District – Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir “Barrel Select” 2021
($48): Vino Vasai is Italian for Potter’s Wine and explains why the latter is what you see when you pull the cork. Bill Sanchez, the winemaker and owner with his wife, Sandy, is a potter. Sandy explains that they had trouble when they tried to trademark Potter’s Wine, so, given her Italian heritage, they opted to name it in Italian. … Read more
Vino Vasai, Laurelwood District – Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate Reserve 2021
($58): Co-owner Sandy Sanchez, describes the Estate Reserve as their top wine. Certainly, it’s more concentrated and denser with more apparent oak character compared to their Barrel Select bottling. At this stage, it’s also has a slighter sweeter profile, presumably from what I assume is more substantial oak aging. … Read more
Vino Vasai, Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate Reserve 2019
($58): 
Vino Vasai’s Pinot Noir dispel the myth that you need super ripe grapes, which translates into 14+ percent alcohol, to make stunning wines. This stunning 2019 Estate Reserve is a case in point. With only 12.7 percent stated alcohol, it delivers what to me is the hallmark of Pinot Noir — flavor without weight. … Read more
Conde Valdemar, Rioja Blanco (Spain) 2022
($18, Cru Selections): Fragrant floral notes immediately capture your attention here. Along with them, Conde Valdemar has managed to combine a subtle fruity roundness with bright invigorating citrus notes in this mid-weight white. A delicate hint of bitterness in the finish adds a balancing touch. … Read more
Henri Perrusset, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2020
($22, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants): Wines labeled Mâcon-Villages vary from the banal to extraordinary value. Put this one squarely in the latter category. Mâcon-Villages, a regional appellation in southern Burgundy, is large by Burgundy standards, 8,500 acres, and comprises 26 named villages lumped under the same umbrella. … Read more
M. Chapoutier, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Belleruche” 2021
($15, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
Chapoutier is one of the top producers in the Rhône, so it’s no surprise that this mid-weight red Côtes du Rhône of theirs is easy to recommend. It displays a balanced and marvelous mixture of black and red fruits, offset by herbal elements that lend a savory touch. … Read more
Jean-Marc Burgaud, Beaujolais Villages (Burgundy, France) Beaujolais Lantignié 2021
($19, Thomas Calder Selection): 
Normally, wines from the Beaujolais-Villages appellation are a blend of wine from several different villages and do not carry the name of an individual village on the label. However, French regulations allow producers to indicate the village, Lantignié in this case, on the label if all the grapes came from it. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) “Areté” Brut Blanc de Noirs 2019
($34): 
Made entirely from their estate-grown Pinot Noir, Iris’ brilliant bubbly displays the barest copper-colored hue. A fabulous array of red fruit nuances — wild strawberries, raspberries, and the like — are supported by a strict spine of acidity that keeps it fresh and you coming back for more. … Read more
Raventós i Blanc, Vino Espumoso de Calidad (Penedès, Spain) “di Nit” Rosé 2020
($25, Augustan Wine Imports): 
Raventós i Blanc, one of the leading Cava producers, left the Cava DO in 2012 to highlight their unique and individual terroir around the Anoia River Valley. Their wines are no longer labeled Cava, but instead with what they hope will become a DO, Conca del Riu Anoia. … Read more
Te Awanga Estate, Hawke’s Bay (New Zealand) Syrah 2018
($28): 
Yes, New Zealand makes distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. As those late-night television ads proclaim, “but wait, there’s more.” And indeed, New Zealand produces more than Sauvignon Blanc, including Syrah, as exemplified by this one. Hawke’s Bay lies on the east coast of the north island and is well suited for reds, such as Syrah and the Bordeaux varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. … Read more
Clos Apalta, Apalta (Colchagua Valley, Chile) 2019
($146, Winebow): 
Clos Apalta has become one of Chile’s most acclaimed red wines, and deservedly so. The 2019 certainly merits that accolade. Despite a 15 percent stated alcohol, the 2019 Clos Apalta is balanced and suave. Intense and rich, yes, but not flamboyant or over-the-top. … Read more
Caprio Cellars, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) “Eleanor” Estate Red Wine 2020
($68): 
This harmonious red, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (64%), Merlot (17%) Malbec (17%) and Cabernet Franc, speaks to the potential of Walla Walla Valley. Ripe black and red fruit notes dance on the palate effortlessly without a trace of heat or heaviness. … Read more
Campo alla Sughera, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Campo alla Sughera” 2019
($89): 
With an unusual blend of roughly 70 percent Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, Campo alla Sughera’s Super Tuscan is remarkably well-balanced. The unnecessarily heavy bottle predicts the weight of this 14.5 percent stated alcohol wine. That said, it retains suaveness and poise. … Read more
Tenuta Luce, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Lucente” 2020
($25, Vintus Wines): 
The stunning 2020 Lucente could be the red wine buy of the summer. This Merlot Sangiovese blend delivers a marvelous combination of black fruit and dark minerals wrapped in a suave, silky texture. Black fruit character is evident, but this is not a fruity wine. … Read more
Campo alla Sughera, Bolgheri Superiore DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Arnione” 2019
($78): 
Arnione, a blend of roughly 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon with equal parts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, is their Bolgheri flagship. As much as I liked their Adèo, Arnione is just, well, a much better wine. Here, minerals balance the lush black fruit and take center stage. … Read more
Campo alla Sughera, Bolgheri Rosso DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Adèo” 2021
($37): 
Founded in 1998 by the German Knauf family, Campo alla Sughera has become an estate to watch in Bolgheri. Their ravishing reds represent a variation on Bordeaux blends. Adèo, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, delivers bright and juicy red cherry notes supported by mild tannins. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2021
($25): 
Iris Vineyards draws on three AVAs from the Willamette, Eola Hills, Ribbon Ridge, and Yamhill-Carlton, for this crunchy red fruited Pinot Noir. Alluring smokey nuances, thankfully not from wildfires, adds a counterpoint to the crisp raspberry-like fruit in this mid-weight, 13.7 percent stated alcohol, Pinot Noir. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) “House Call” Red Blend 2020
($20): 
This lively and juicy fruit focused blend of equal parts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, rounded out with Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, displays an array of black and red fruits supported by mild tannins and bright acidity. Weighing in under 14 percent stated alcohol, it’s not a heavy wine, rather a terrific choice for summer BBQ. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Bric Quercia 2019
($19): 
Tenuta Carretta’s Barbera d’Alba is a well-price robust red that’s perfect for hearty grilled meat this summer. Supple tannins allow the immediate enjoyment of its juicy and ripe (15 percent stated alcohol) black fruit. Barbera’s inherent acidity keeps this racy red lively and in balance. … Read more
Marchesi Alfieri, Barbara d’Asti Superiore DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Alfiera” 2020
($32): 
Wines made from Barbera are all over the map regarding character and quality. Alfieri’s complex Barbera d’Asti shows the potential of that grape and DOCG. A dark minerality and a “not just fruit” character is a marvelous counterpoint to the lush and juicy black fruit flavors. … Read more
Domaine Pélaquié, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2021
($15, Bowler): 
I am reviewing this bargain-priced beauty again for emphasis since I just tasted it again. This seductive white shows the potential of white wines from the southern Rhône. A subtle peach-like character merges with a firm minerality. The combination delights the palate and invigorating acidity in the finish magnifies it charms. … Read more
Baron de Ley, Rioja Blanco Reserva (Spain) “Tres Viñas” 2019
($16, Carolina Wine Brands): 
Baron de Ley’s white Rioja Reserva has an entirely different — and weightier — profile compared to their regular bottling. The effects of oak-aging is apparent, but not intrusive. It adds weight and gravitas without dominating. Though there is more “oomph” here, it’s not a fruity wine, but paradoxically conveys an attractive austerity and an engaging hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Baron de Ley, Rioja Blanco (Spain) 2022
($14, Carolina Wine Brands): 
White Rioja, made chiefly from Viura, represents a little under 10 percent of the plantings in the region and is making a resurgence in the marketplace. This light and zesty one delivers a hint of minerality accompanied by refreshing saline-like acidity. … Read more
Ramõn Bilbao, Rioja Crianza (Spain) 2019
($15): 
Wines from Rioja, arguably Spain’s most famous wine area, can provide terrific value. Just take this one for example. Crianza, an official designation of aging, means that the red wine has been aged for two years, at least one of which was in oak barrels, before release. … Read more
Podere Sapaio, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Sapaio” 2019
($94, Soilair Selection): 
Podere Sapaio, founded in 1999, is making itself known among the Super Tuscan with their flagship wine, Sapaio. A blend of organically grown Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Petit Verdot (20%) and Cabernet Franc, the stylish Sapaio impresses with a plush, velvety texture that shouts, “I’m important.” … Read more
Di Giovanna, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Grillo “Vurría” 2021
($21, Regal Wine Imports): 
This zippy Grillo, made from an indigenous Sicilian grape, is a great accompaniment to seafood, even in a hearty tomato sauce, because of austere style and lively saline acidity. Not an opulent or fruit-driven wine, it is light weight, with a modest 12.5 percent stated alcohol. … Read more
Firriato, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Harmonium” 2014
($41): 
Made from one of Sicily’s native grapes, this robust red holds its 14.5 percent stated alcohol effortlessly, without a trace of heaviness. Smoke and other savory accents complement its dark plum-like fresh and dried fruit notes. Good balancing acidity keeps this mature beauty bright and fresh while fine tannins lend support without astringency. … Read more
Vignerons Laudun Chusclan, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Éléments Luna” 2022
($15): 
Laudun is an unusual Côte du Rhône Village because it produces a hefty amount of appealing white wines, like this one from the local co-operative. A versatile wine, this lively mid-weight beauty delivers a hint of white peaches without any heaviness so it would work well as a stand-alone aperitif. … Read more
Domaine Pélaquié, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2019
($14, Bowler): Laudun, one of the 22 villages allowed to attach the village name to the Côte du Rhône Villages appellation, has applied for, and is likely to be elevated, to cru status, which would put it on a level with Rasteau and Cairanne, other named villages who were formerly under the Côtes du Rhône Villages umbrella. … Read more
Papapietro Perry, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2020
($61): 
Papapietro Perry’s vibrant Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir shows bright red cherry-like flavors as opposed to the darker fruit character of the one from Nunes Vineyard. Still, it’s mostly a fruit-driven Pinot Noir without substantial savory notes common to that variety. … Read more
Papapietro Perry, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Pommard Clones” 2020
($82): 
The lush Papapietro Perry Pommard Clones bottling is the boldest of Papapietro’s trio of Pinot Noir releases, displaying ripe black fruit notes. Like their two other bottlings, this Pinot Noir displays a velvety texture. Reflective of its 14.4 percent stated alcohol, a touch of heat comes through in its slightly sweet finish. … Read more