($32): Wines made from Barbera are all over the map regarding character and quality. Alfieri’s complex Barbera d’Asti shows the potential of that grape and DOCG. A dark minerality and a “not just fruit” character is a marvelous counterpoint to the lush and juicy black fruit flavors. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Domaine Pélaquié, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2021
($15, Bowler): I am reviewing this bargain-priced beauty again for emphasis since I just tasted it again. This seductive white shows the potential of white wines from the southern Rhône. A subtle peach-like character merges with a firm minerality. The combination delights the palate and invigorating acidity in the finish magnifies it charms. … Read more
Baron de Ley, Rioja Blanco Reserva (Spain) “Tres Viñas” 2019
($16, Carolina Wine Brands): Baron de Ley’s white Rioja Reserva has an entirely different — and weightier — profile compared to their regular bottling. The effects of oak-aging is apparent, but not intrusive. It adds weight and gravitas without dominating. Though there is more “oomph” here, it’s not a fruity wine, but paradoxically conveys an attractive austerity and an engaging hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Baron de Ley, Rioja Blanco (Spain) 2022
($14, Carolina Wine Brands): White Rioja, made chiefly from Viura, represents a little under 10 percent of the plantings in the region and is making a resurgence in the marketplace. This light and zesty one delivers a hint of minerality accompanied by refreshing saline-like acidity. … Read more
Ramõn Bilbao, Rioja Crianza (Spain) 2019
($15): Wines from Rioja, arguably Spain’s most famous wine area, can provide terrific value. Just take this one for example. Crianza, an official designation of aging, means that the red wine has been aged for two years, at least one of which was in oak barrels, before release. … Read more
Podere Sapaio, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Sapaio” 2019
($94, Soilair Selection): Podere Sapaio, founded in 1999, is making itself known among the Super Tuscan with their flagship wine, Sapaio. A blend of organically grown Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Petit Verdot (20%) and Cabernet Franc, the stylish Sapaio impresses with a plush, velvety texture that shouts, “I’m important.” … Read more
Di Giovanna, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Grillo “Vurría” 2021
($21, Regal Wine Imports): This zippy Grillo, made from an indigenous Sicilian grape, is a great accompaniment to seafood, even in a hearty tomato sauce, because of austere style and lively saline acidity. Not an opulent or fruit-driven wine, it is light weight, with a modest 12.5 percent stated alcohol. … Read more
Firriato, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Harmonium” 2014
($41): Made from one of Sicily’s native grapes, this robust red holds its 14.5 percent stated alcohol effortlessly, without a trace of heaviness. Smoke and other savory accents complement its dark plum-like fresh and dried fruit notes. Good balancing acidity keeps this mature beauty bright and fresh while fine tannins lend support without astringency. … Read more
Vignerons Laudun Chusclan, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Éléments Luna” 2022
($15): Laudun is an unusual Côte du Rhône Village because it produces a hefty amount of appealing white wines, like this one from the local co-operative. A versatile wine, this lively mid-weight beauty delivers a hint of white peaches without any heaviness so it would work well as a stand-alone aperitif. … Read more
Domaine Pélaquié, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2019
($14, Bowler): Laudun, one of the 22 villages allowed to attach the village name to the Côte du Rhône Villages appellation, has applied for, and is likely to be elevated, to cru status, which would put it on a level with Rasteau and Cairanne, other named villages who were formerly under the Côtes du Rhône Villages umbrella. … Read more
Papapietro Perry, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2020
($61): Papapietro Perry’s vibrant Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir shows bright red cherry-like flavors as opposed to the darker fruit character of the one from Nunes Vineyard. Still, it’s mostly a fruit-driven Pinot Noir without substantial savory notes common to that variety. … Read more
Papapietro Perry, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Pommard Clones” 2020
($82): The lush Papapietro Perry Pommard Clones bottling is the boldest of Papapietro’s trio of Pinot Noir releases, displaying ripe black fruit notes. Like their two other bottlings, this Pinot Noir displays a velvety texture. Reflective of its 14.4 percent stated alcohol, a touch of heat comes through in its slightly sweet finish. … Read more
Papapietro Perry, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Nunes Vineyard 2020
($66): Papapietro Perry makes a trio of Pinot Noirs that all show a focus on ripe fruitiness while keeping the distinctiveness of site. Nunes Vineyard, a former pig farm with rich soil and a warm site, unsurprisingly, produced this robust Pinot Noir. … Read more
Inama, Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) 2021
($16): Talented and hard-working producers, such as Inama, are resurrecting Soave’s image that was tarnished and virtually destroyed by innocuous swill of the past. Now, wines from the Soave Classico DOC from top producers are frequently providing far more quality than their prices suggest. … Read more
Fattoria le Pupille, Morellino di Scansano (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($19): Elisabetta Geppetti’s estate, Fattoria le Pupille, is one of the leading producers in the Morellino di Scansano, a DOCG located in southern Tuscany, near the coast. Though Sangiovese provides the base for Morellino, as it does in Chianti Classico, the wines from Morellino are typically richer than those from Chianti Classico because of the warmer climate. … Read more
Collestefano, Verdicchio di Matelica DOC (Marche, Italy) 2022
($16): Verdicchio di Matelica, the smaller and lesser known than Verdicchio di Castelli Jesi, is landlocked, unlike its more famous sibling. Despite its location, paradoxically, its wines have a more marine influence because this valley in the Apennine mountains was underwater in ancient times. … Read more
I Clivi di Mario Zanusso, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2021
($35): This is just one in the stellar line-up of wines that Mario Zanusso makes at I Clivi. In the right hands — and Zanusso certainly has them — Friulano has depth, a suave texture, and bright acidity. I Clivi’s 2021 has all of that and more. … Read more
Domaine de la Mordorée, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “La Reine des Bois” 2022
($45, Kysela Pere et Fils): Though more well known for its red wines, Lirac produces some lively whites, like this one. That it is made from organic biodynamically grown grapes indicates to me that the winemaking team is more compulsive in the vineyard because they can’t just spray to control disease. … Read more
Domaine de la Mordorée, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2022
($25, Kysela Pere et Fils): Frequent WineReviewOnline readers may know I am not a fan of rosés in general because they are often vapid and lack character. Not this one. Domaine de la Mordorée has fashion one from a blend Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault that delivers lively refreshment, delicate red fruitiness, and complementary spice.… Read more
Clos des Lunes, Bordeaux (France) “Lune Blanche” 2019
($20, Monsieur Touton Selection): The Barnard family, owners of the stellar Domaine de Chevalier, one of the top estates in Pessac Léognan, owns Clos des Lunes, a property located in the Sauternes region of Bordeaux. The care they take with their wines from Domaine de Chevalier show in their dry white wines from Clos des Lunes. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay DCV Block 10 2021
($45): David Stare founded Dry Creek Vineyard over five decades ago, in 1972. Over those five decades, they have an enviable track record of consistency. Though I am reluctant to describe a style by what they are not, it is important to emphasize that Dry Creek Vineyard’s wines are never flamboyant. … Read more
Cline Family Cellars, Carneros (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Hat Strap” 2021
($30): The Carneros region of Sonoma, and Napa for that matter, is cooler because it abuts San Pablo Bay, which funnels cool Pacific Ocean air into the vineyards. Despite the cooling maritime influences, Cline has managed to create a Chardonnay with substance, reflected by its 14.5 percent stated alcohol, but without going overboard. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2020
($55): If your idea of California Chardonnay is heavy and buttery, this graceful one with surprise you. Restrained, weighing in at a modest, 13.5 percent-stated alcohol, it nonetheless makes a prominent presence. Despite its apparent lack of power, there’s plenty going on here. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard 2020
($50): Tongue Dancer has skillfully managed to produce single-vineyard Chardonnay that are different, unique, and demonstrate a stylistic spectrum of the Russian River Valley. This beautifully balanced one displays lavish tropical fruit notes supported by zesty acidity and a welcoming hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Pratt Vineyard, Irwin Lane 2020
($42): Tongue Dancer’s Pratt Vineyard Irwin Lane bottling seems like a marriage of their Pratt Vine Hill and their Bacigalupi, with a touch more density and fruitiness compared to the Pratt Vine Hill, but fewer tropical aspects seen in the Bacigalupi. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Pratt Vineyard, Vine Hill Road 2020
($65): This sleek and racy Chardonnay is the bookend to Tongue Dancer’s tropically infused Bacigalupi Vineyard bottling. With a modest 13.1 percent stated alcohol, the taut Pratt Vine Hill Chardonnay delights the plate with flinty and mineral nuances. It unfolds gloriously as it sits in the glass so don’t be put off by its initial reticence. … Read more
Borthwick Vineyards, Wairarapa (South Island, New Zealand) “Paper Road CPR” 2021
($17, Levecke Imports): The CPR refers to the blend of this zippy wine: Chardonnay 23%, Pinot Gris 50%, and Riesling. A charmer, it leads with fine and flowery aromatics and then follows with sufficient depth to hold up and balance its energy.… Read more
Domaine de la Mordorée, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) “La Dame Rousse” 2022
($25, Kysela Pere et Fils): Regular WineReviewOnline readers know of my aversion to rosé, which, all too often, is insipid and lacks interest. Not this one! Of course, it comes from Tavel, an appellation that allows producers to make only rosé and from one of the top producers not just in Tavel, but in the entire Rhône Valley. … Read more
Domaine de la Mordorée, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “La Dame Rousse” 2020
($35, Kysela Pere et Fils): Lirac, a lesser-known appellation across the Rhône River from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is, like that more well-known neighbor, also a cru of the Rhône, a distinction given to a village and its surroundings that makes distinctive wines. So, looking at the Rhône quality pyramid, Lirac sits with Gigondas, Vacqueryas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and other crus, at the top. … Read more
Domaine de la Mordorée, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2021
($25, Kysela Pere et Fils): The quality of wines labeled Côtes du Rhône is as vast as the appellation, which is to say, vast. So, what differentiates one from another? The producer, of course. And Domaine de la Mordorée is one of the best, not only of Côtes du Rhône, but of other Rhône Valley appellations as well. … Read more
Paul Hobbs, West Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2021
($80): The Sonoma Coast AVA is enormous, even encompassing the Russian River Valley, a warmer locate. Growers whose vineyards were closer to the Pacific would claim their wines came from “the real Sonoma Coast.” Finally, in 2022 The West Sonoma Coast, a strip closest to the Pacific Ocean, was rightly carved out of the greater Sonoma Coast AVA and given its own AVA. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2020
($63): One of the impressive things about Tongue Dancer’s wines is that they reflect their AVAs. This one from the cooler Sonoma Coast, still fruit-focused, manages to combine the appealing cherry-like aromatics and flavors with clear savory influences. Complexity emerges as it sits in the glass. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Pinot de Ville” 2020
($63): The talented team of James and Kerry MacPhail oversee Liquid Vineyl, the producer of Tongue Dancer wines. Since everyone just refers to them as Tongue Dancer, I am using that moniker as the producer. The MacPhails seem to favor a ripe, full-bodied style of Pinot Noir that emphasizes fruit over the grape’s potential savory side, though subtle herbal nuances do peak through in their Pinot de Ville. … Read more
Domaine Elodie Balme, Rasteau (Rhône Valley, France) 2021
($29, Louis/Dressner Selections): Elodie Balme symbolizes a new generation of winemakers in Rasteau, employing organic viticulture and making slightly less muscular wines that are formerly emblematic to this appellation. That said, no one would categorize this beauty, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, and Mourvèdre, as a light wine. … Read more
Château de Montfaucon, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “Comtesse Madeleine” 2021
($30): Lirac, an often-overlooked appellation of the southern Rhône just to the west of Châteauneuf du Pape, is one of two Rhône appellations that makes all three colors, reds, whites, and rosés. (Vacqueyras is the other.) From what I heard from many during my recent trip to the area, Château de Montfaucon is one of the leading producers there. … Read more
Domaine Pélaquié, Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2021
($15): French wine regulators allow 22 (at current count) villages that produce sufficiently distinctive wine to put their name on the label along with the appellation Côtes du Rhône Villages. It is an elite club, accounting for only about ten percent of the wine from the Rhône Valley. … Read more
E. Guigal, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) 2019
($70, Vintus Wines): Condrieu, a small roughly 500-acre, appellation in the northern Rhône valley, mandates the exclusive use of Viognier, a temperamental grape. Guigal, arguably the Rhône’s best producer overall, has (perhaps unsurprisingly) tamed it and turned it into an excellent wine. … Read more
M. Chapoutier, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “La Petite Ruche” 2020
($30, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Chapoutier, one of the best producers in the Rhône Valley, is both a négociant and a grower. As a grower, the house makes estate wine from grapes in vineyards they own. As a négociant, the company buys either very newly pressed wine or grapes from their neighbors and transform it into wine.… Read more
E. Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2019
($16, Vintus Wines): To me, the mark of a great producer lies in their least expensive wine. Of course, Guigal is rightly known for their mind-boggling La La’s, small single-vineyard wines, La Mouline, La Landonne, and La Turque, from the Côte Rôtie, whose approximate 20,000-bottle combined annual production is highly allocated and sells for hundreds of dollars a bottle. … Read more
Domaine Bernard Burgaud, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) 2020
($73): Côte Rôtie, a small appellation in the Northern Rhône that is home to spectacular red wines, allows the inclusion of up to 20 percent Viognier. Burgaud included some Viognier in their Côte Rôtie in the past, but Pierre Burgaud, who is currently in charge, told me that with climate change and better ripening of Syrah, they no longer feel the need to add Viognier to bolster the alcohol. … Read more
Guy Charlemagne, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV
($72, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Ironically, Guy Charlemagne who is located in Mesnil-sur-Oger, one of Champagne’s great sites for Chardonnay, makes this fabulous Rosé entirely from Pinot Noir. Yes, it’s a gloriously rich powerhouse, yet it is balanced and not overdone. … Read more
Domaine Gérard Tremblay, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2020
($40, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Fourchaume, one of top Premier Cru vineyards of Chablis, abuts the Grand Cru vineyards on the right bank of the Serein River. Generally, the wines from Fourchaume are more voluptuous, relatively speaking of course, then the wines from other 1er cru vineyards. … Read more
Modus Operandi Cellars, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Vicarious” 2020
($35): Focusing on the fruity, rather than savory, side of Pinot Noir, this ready-to-drink wine delivers ripe dark plum-like notes. This broad-shouldered wine is suavely textured with adequate acidity to balance its ripe black fruit profile. It finishes with the barest hint of sweetness. … Read more
Modus Operandi Cellars, Petaluma Gap (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Gap’s Crown Vineyard 2021
($85): Judging from the two Pinot Noir and one Cabernet Sauvignon that I tasted, Modus Operandi favors a bold style of wine. Savory nuances add balance to this ripe,15 percent stated-alcohol, black-fruited beauty. Despite the savory notes, it comes across as slightly riper and bolder than their Vicarious bottling. … Read more
Modus Operandi Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
($115): Olive-like and herbal nuances balance the dense black cassis-like fruit in this rich and concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon. This muscle-bound wine carries its 15.5% stated alcohol easily. An alluring hint of tarriness enhances the long and enveloping finish. With a luxuriously suave texture, this archetypal Napa Cabernet would be an excellent choice with a char-broiled steak tonight.… Read more
Capezzana, Vin Santo di Carmignano DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Riserva 2015
($90, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): The bottles were opened at least a dozen yards away, but the aromas of apricots and nuts stopped all conversation as people looked for the source of the wondrous aromas. Vin Santo is a curious wine, this one especially. … Read more
Capezzana, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Ugo Contini Bonacossi” 2018
($62, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): This youthful treasure is a single vineyard Sangiovese named after Ugo Contini Bonacossi, the force behind the modern Capezzana estate who sadly passed away in 2013. The production is small, fewer than 3,000 bottles a year, because only the best grapes from this vineyard that Ugo loved go into the wine. … Read more
Capezzana, Carmignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Trefiano” Riserva 2018
($66, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Capezzana produces their Trefiano Riserva, a blend of Sangiovese (80%) with equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo, only in the best years. The stunning 2018, a big wine, to be sure, is balanced by spicy, savory notes and an incredible freshness. … Read more
Guy Charlemagne, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV
($72, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Ironically, Guy Charlemagne who is located in Mesnil-sur-Oger, one of Champagne’s great sites for Chardonnay, makes this fabulous Rosé entirely from Pinot Noir. Yes, it’s a gloriously rich powerhouse, yet it is balanced and not overdone. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Saint Véran (Burgundy, France) “Les Deux Moulins” 2020
($35, Louis Latour, USA): The Saint Véran appellation abuts Pouilly-Fuissé and, unsurprisingly, the wines are similar. Though when tasting the same producer’s Saint Véran next to their Pouilly-Fuissé, the latter always comes away the winner, at least until you see the prices. … Read more