($24, Vineyard Brands): Cono Sur has done it again with their top-of-the-line, “20 Barrels” bottling. Their 20 Barrels Pinot Noir (previously reviewed) was excellent. This Cabernet Sauvignon shows they’ve mastered more than just one variety. Not a massive wine, it’s pure Cabernet delight with a seamless interplay of fruit, herbs and savory notes. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Don Miguel Gascon, Mendoza (Argentina) “Colosal” Red Blend
2012 ($15, Gascon USA): The name says it all. This blend of Malbec, Bonarda, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon delivers subtly sweet, almost jammy, ripe black fruit flavors enveloped with plush tannins that results in a soft and forward wine. Good by itself, it would also work well with robust fare.… Read more
Clos du Val, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($24): With this Sauvignon Blanc, their first commercial offering, Clos du Val shows they are as talented with their whites as with their terrific reds. Pleasantly pungent with a marvelous balance of creaminess, it has lovely depth while avoiding heaviness. Though spicy and bright, it still doesn’t shake you by the lapels but rather awakens your palate and makes you want to take another sip. … Read more
Maison Robert Drouhin, St. Veran (Burgundy, France) 2011
($16, Dreyfus-Ashby): The 2011 vintage for white Burgundy was a mixed bag with some wines being flabby. Drouhin managed to capture acidity to keep that problem at bay with their lineup. This St. Veran, from an appellation near its more famous neighbor, Pouilly Fuissé, is a stand out at the price. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2011
($14): This plush, uncomplicated Merlot balances bright ripe fruitiness with hints of vanilla, presumably from oak aging. A touch of Syrah in the blend adds ripeness that borders on sweetness, which along with polished tannins make it well suited for stand-alone sipping.… Read more
Renwood Winery, Amador County (California) Zinfandel “Premier” Old Vine 2010
($20): Once again, location matters. Amador County has a great reputation for Zinfandel and it shows in the character of this wine. Fresh bright fruit flavors, dried fruit notes, and spice all come together in this bold, yet not massive, Zinfandel. … Read more
Spellbound, California (United States) Petite Sirah 2012
($15): There’s nothing petite about wines made from Petite Sirah. This robust red, actually purple, wine delivers jammy fruit flavors seasoned with licorice and spicy oak. It would work well with a hearty pasta dish.
85 Michael Apstein Oct 29, 2013… Read more
Renwood Winery, California (United States) Zinfandel 2011
($15): This unusual blend of Zinfandel (86%) with a touch of white grapes (Roussanne, 2%) and a grape I’d never heard of (Souzao, 1%) had me running to Jancis Robinson’s Wine Grapes. The remainder of the blend is Primitivo and Mourvèdre. … Read more
Liberty School, Central Coast (California) Pinot Noir 2012
($20): Sweet cherry-like flavors dominate in this Central Coast Pinot Noir. Lots of spice from oak aging and a whiff of savory notes compete with the ripe fruit flavors, but they are ultimately forced into the background by the unbridled fruitiness. … Read more
Clos du Val, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($38): Thankfully, Clos du Val retains their hallmark style of restraint and elegance with their 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon. And they do it without sacrificing intensity or weight. This wine amazes with its plethora of flavors. There’s the expected mix of black and red fruit flavors, but there is also alluring nuances of herbs, savory notes and even olives. … Read more
Spellbound, Napa Valley (California) Petite Sirah Reserve 2007
($45): Location matters. Spellbound’s Napa Valley bottling of Petite Sirah is a big step up from their less expensive “California” one. With spicy deep dark berry scented flavors accompanied by moderate tannins, this is quintessential Petite Sirah. Winemaker, Rob Mondavi, Jr.,… Read more
Cono Sur, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir 2012
($11, Vineyard Brands): This fruit-focused Pinot Noir manages to avoid the sweetness trap so many fruit-focused wines fall into. Subtle savory notes help balance the overt fruitiness found here. Tannins, predictably, are polished to allow for immediate enjoyment. What’s most startling is this kind of quality in Pinot Noir at this price. … Read more
Cono Sur, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir El Triángulo Estate “20 Barrels” 2011
($25, Vineyard Brands): Cono Sur’s “20 Barrels” bottling represents their best lots — a reserve bottling, essentially. This Pinot Noir is bigger and more concentrated than their superb value regular bottling without going over to the dark side. They’ve managed a seamless combination of fruit and savory notes enrobed in glossy tannins. … Read more
Jean Claude Boisset, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Grèves 2011
($55, Boisset USA): Jean Claude Boisset has reinvented itself over the last decade, going from a Burgundy négociant focusing on quantity to one now focusing on quality. It’s a welcome evolution. This Beaune Grèves has plenty of concentration and supporting acidity to keep it balanced. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica” 2012
($20): Eroica, a collaboration of Ernst Loosen of Germany’s Dr. Loosen and Bob Bertheau of Chateau Ste. Michelle, has been one of the finest Rieslings made in America since its 1999 debut. It’s a blend of grapes grown throughout eastern Washington, composed by Loosen and Bertheau (after all, the wine is named for Beethoven’s Third Symphony). … Read more
Robert Oatley, Central Ranges (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz “Wild Oats” 2011
($13, Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits): Robert Oatley, the man who founded Rosemount, one of Australia’s best and most successful wineries, now makes distinctive and easy to recommend wines under his own name. His remarkable talent is easy to see in the quality of his second wines, which he labels Wild Oats.… Read more
Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2011
($150): Cloudburst is a new venture started by Will Berliner, an American who’s married to an Australian. He entered the wine business serendipitously after he and his wife purchased a beautiful tract of land and house in the Margaret River area. … Read more
Clos du Val, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2010
($35): Clos du Val, one of the pioneer Napa Valley wineries, fortunately has never varied from it style that values finesse over power. Admirable restraint in this clean Merlot allows you to savor it. Though focused on fruit flavors, an appealing earthiness, characteristic of Merlot, appears in the finish. … Read more
Frei Brothers, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2011
($23): This bright Pinot Noir showcases the ripe sweet fruit of the Russian River Valley. Concentrated, but not over the top into the Pinot Syrah category, its polished tannins make it ready to drink. Indeed, it could stand alone for those who relish a glass of red wine before dinner, but would also be a fine choice for roast duck.… Read more
McManis Family Vineyards, River Junction (California) Chardonnay 2012
($10): It’s hard to find a drinkable $10 Chardonnay these days. So when I ran across one that was not only drinkable, but good, I was thrilled. There’s no subtlety here, just rich ripe fruit and, most importantly, balance. Easy to sip before a meal, this straightforward Chardonnay is an especially good choice when serving a crowd.… Read more
Robert Mondavi Winery, Napa Valley (California) To Kalon Vineyard Fumé Blanc Reserve 2011
($40): Decades ago Robert Mondavi coined the name Fumé Blanc for his wine made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape. It has always been one of California’s most distinctive, and the Mondavi 2011 continues that track record. The grapes have traditionally come from the famed To Kalon vineyard near the winery and they’ve opted to now put the vineyard name on the label. … Read more
Alex Gambal, St. Aubin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 2011
($45): The names of Burgundy vineyards are fascinating, often evoking colorful images. This one, one of my favorites, is roughly translated as “the boulders that look like the teeth of the dog.” Alex Gambal’s 2011 from this vineyard is as wonderful as the name. … Read more
Jean Claude Boisset, Saint Aubin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Remilly 2011
($45, Boisset USA): Boisset, a négociant known for bulk wines, has reinvented itself over the last decade by reducing production dramatically and focusing on quality instead of quantity. It’s been a dramatic and welcome transformation. Under the guidance of winemaker Gregory Patriat, they have produced this stylish St.… Read more
Jean Claude Boisset, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Perrières 2011
($100, Boisset USA): Les Perrières means stony, which is an accurate description for the firm, classically structured white Burgundy. The stony minerality acts as a lovely foil for its green apple-like ripeness. The contrast with Boisset St. Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly shows the magic of Burgundy–same grape, same vintage, same winemaking team, yet two very different expressions of Chardonnay. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Macon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2011
($13, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Louis Jadot is as reliable and consistent producer as you will find in Burgundy. Their talents are apparent in this well-priced, bright, Chardonnay-based white Burgundy. Brimming with clean ripe fruit flavors, it has good balancing acidity that keeps it lively. … Read more
Alex Gambal, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Grèves 2011
($45): The Gambal team, led by winemaker Geraldine Godot who joined Gambal in 2009, has captured the “flavor without weight” character of red Burgundy with this elegant Beaune Grèves. Its lacey delicacy belies its impact and persistence. A firm underpinning gives it support and structure. … Read more
Clos du Val, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2010
($32): Clos du Val, thankfully, has resisted the trend toward overripe, boisterous wines. With this lacey and pure Pinot Noir, they deliver bright clean red fruit with a hint of minerality. It is precise with delicate savory elements in the finish. … Read more
Red Rock Winery, California (United States) Pinot Noir Reserve 2012
($14): This wine exemplifies why we need to regulate the term “Reserve.” Red Rock Winery produces 40,000 cases of this Pinot Noir annually from grapes that come from anywhere in California. That’s hardly a Reserve wine. Slightly sweet and soft, this fruit-focused wine works perfectly as a stand-alone aperitif. … Read more
Robert Oatley, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2012
($17, Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits): One of joys of Robert Oatley’s wines is that they clearly reflect regional character. This Chardonnay from the Margaret River region in Western Australia is restrained just as you’d expect from that appellation. It has an appealing whiff of oak that complements — not overwhelms — the inherent fruitiness. … Read more
d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz “The Swinging Malaysian” 2010
($85, Old Bridge Cellars): d’Arenberg has turned up the power here while simultaneously increasing the polish of this Shiraz. A luxurious wine, its suave texture is all the more impressive considering its power. A dense and dark earthy quality has replaced the flowery aspect found in their Laughing Magpie. … Read more
d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz “The Stump Jump” 2011
($13, Old Bridge Cellars): Despite my lack of enthusiasm for the cutesy names the Australians attach to their wines, there is no overlooking the quality and value of this wine. It is a superb $13 Shiraz. Surprisingly for the price, it delivers more than just fruit flavors — there are subtle and intriguing gamey and savory notes. … Read more
Robert Oatley, Central Ranges (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay “Wild Oats” 2012
($13, Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits): Simply put, this is a fabulous $13 Chardonnay. Will it blow you away with depth and complexity? No, but it’s clean and fresh with a delicate hint of creaminess. Its finesse and balance makes it stand apart from most of the sweet and heavy-handed Chardonnay you find at this price.… Read more
d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz / Viognier “The Laughing Magpie” 2009
($29, Old Bridge Cellars): By blending a touch of Viognier with the Shiraz, as in the custom in France’s Côte Rôtie, d’Arenberg has created a more layered wine compared to their super-value The Stump Jump. Both flowery and gamey, it is balanced, not bombastic. … Read more
Edna Valley Vineyard, Central Coast (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($15): This is a softer and rounder style of Sauvignon Blanc with less of that varietal’s usual pungency. You could sip it as an aperitif or match it with a take-out rotisserie chicken.
86 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2013… Read more
Cono Sur, San Antonio Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($14, Vineyard Brands): This wine bears six references on the front and back labels and the capsule to organically grown grapes. Whether it’s the organically grown grapes or just solid winemaking, this fresh and vibrant Sauvignon Blanc is a delight. A zesty, grapefruit-like zing awakens the palate without assaulting it and balances its pure and precise fruitiness. … Read more
Gérard Bertrand, Pic Saint Loup (Coteaux du Languedoc, France) 2011
($19, USA Wine West): Pic Saint Loup, one of the top areas within the Languedoc, is in line to receive its own appellation because its wines have the potential stand above the rest. Gérard Bertrand, a well-established négociant in the Languedoc, has realized that potential. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (France) Chardonnay “Steel” 2012
($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s best producers, has fashioned this Bourgogne Blanc for the US by highlighting Chardonnay on the front label relegating the appellation to the back. The gray label and proprietary name, Steel, remind us this crisp white was fermented and aged in stainless steel to allow the subtle minerality and green apple-like fruitiness to shine. … Read more
Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2012
($21, Diamond Importers, Inc): Assyrtiko, an ancient grape indigenous to the Aegean island of Santorini, is a name worth remembering because the grapes produce a wine ideally suited to flavorful seafood. Domaine Sigalas’ is spicy and mineraly, with an almost bitter finish. … Read more
Lange Estate Winery, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Estate Reserve 2009
($0): Given the limited production of this single vineyard wine, it will be hard to find. But it’s surely worth the search. Lange Estate makes impressive wines from purchased fruit, but this one shows the great heights they achieve when they use their own. … Read more
Horton Vineyards, Virginia (United States) Viognier 2012
($20): Viognier is a tough grape to turn into wine. It needs to be ripe to capture its characteristic aromas and flavors”, but even a little extra ripeness imparts an alcoholic burn to the wine. Horton walks the line beautifully with this one. … Read more
Joseph Phelps, Napa Valley (California) “Insignia” 2010
($225): Insignia, a gloriously suave Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Malbec, remains one of Napa Valley’s most acclaimed wines. And with good reason judging from the 2010. An explosive wine, its glossy texture is all the more amazing considering the wine’s concentration and power.… Read more
Foxen Winery, Santa Maria Valley (California) Pinot Noir Julia’s Vineyard 2010
($60): This concentrated Pinot Noir pulls it off without landing in the Pinot Syrah category because underneath all that power is refinement. Long and layered, Foxen has delivered a ripe wine, befitting its origins, without pushing it over the top. You’ll embrace it for its black-fruited succulence rather than its delicacy.… Read more
O Casal, Valdeorras (Spain) Godello “Casal Novo” 2012
($21, Classic Wines): Godello, a grape indigenous to Valdeorras, a tiny DO in northwestern Spain, has great potential because it has the capacity to make a wine that combines a creamy richness with bold acidity. The trick is to balance the two, as O Casal has done with their 2012 Casal Novo. … Read more
Mt. Difficulty, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Roaring Meg” 2011
($25, American Estate Wines): Central Otago is one the great areas in New Zealand for Pinot Noir, and Mt. Difficulty is one the best producers there. This solid Pinot Noir, the winery’s second label, combines bright clean red fruit-like flavors with a whiff of earth and leafiness. … Read more
Lange Estate Winery, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Reserve 2011
($35): Judging by their Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, Lange Estate is a name to remember. This one shows the paradox of Pinot Noir — powerful yet delicate. Its power is in its persistence and layered flavors of fruit and earthiness. … Read more
Maison Albert Bichot, Bourgogne Rouge (France) Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes 2011
($18, Horizon Beverage Company): Both Burgundy fans will and newcomers to this mine field-laden region will be thrilled with this bargain priced wine. Burgundy aficionados will embrace it because it’s an authentic red Burgundy at great price, delivering earthiness to complement its fruitiness. … Read more
Lange Estate Winery, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2011
($20): I was not familiar with the wines from Lange Estate Winery until a recent tasting in Boston. That was a mistake I’m glad I’ve now corrected. This perky Pinot Gris has vivacity that harmonizes perfectly with its subtly spiced pear-like flavors.… Read more
Cakebread Cellars, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir 2011
($50): Cakebread, known for their Napa Valley wines, has expanded to the cooler, more Pinot Noir friendly, Anderson Valley for their foray with the varietal. While clearly a fruit-focused wine, bright acidity prevents it from being jammy or overdone. Supple tannins enrobe the sweet dense mixture of lively red fruit flavors. … Read more
Franklin Tate Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2012
($15, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group): This fruit-forward Cabernet Sauvignon blend focuses on plumy flavors sprinkled with a subtle herbal quality. Supple tannins allow immediate enjoyment. It’s a balanced wine with enough stuffing to stand up to steak.
85 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2013
Franklin Tate Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Shiraz 2012
($15, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group): This Shiraz could be viewed as a second wine to Franklin Tate Estate’s impressive Alexanders Vineyard Shiraz. More plumy than gamey, it delivers clean bright fruit without being overdone. Ready to drink now, it would be a good choice for burgers on the grill.… Read more