Category Archives: Reviews

Illuminati, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) “Campirosa” 2014

($13, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Though its enticing cherry-red hue says rosé, this is not your standard innocuous one, but rather a rosé masquerading as a light red wine–and a delightful one at that.  Fresh and bright, with hints of wild strawberries, the barest hint of a tannic structure and whiff of bitterness in the finish remind you it was made from a light pressing of the Montepulciano grape. Read more

Finca el Origen, Cafayate (Salta, Argentina) Torrontes Reserva 2014

($11): Just as Malbec is Argentina’s signature red grape and wine, Torrontés, is becoming that country’s signature white.  Very floral, with even a glimmer of honeysuckle, Finca el Origen’s represents one end of the Torrontés style spectrum.  Analogous to many Muscat, it’s a bit deceptive because, while the aromas suggest that sweetness will follow, it doesn’t. Read more

Clayhouse, Paso Robles (California) Petite Sirah Red Cedar Vineyard “Show Pony” 2012

($40): Petite Sirah is, of course, misnamed because there’s nothing petite about it.  And that’s its major attraction and, simultaneously, its major flaw.  Many Petite Sirah can be overwhelming — boisterous and alcoholic and nothing else.  Clayhouse Estate is robust and intense, yes, but it is balanced and not overdone considering the grape. Read more

Fiuza, do Tejo (Portugal) Alvarinho 2014

($12, Gabriella Wines): In Portugal, Albariño, Spain’s popular aromatic white grape, is Alvarinho.  It’s a little odd to see the grape in the southern part of Portugal — the do Tejo appellation is the area bordering the Tejo, a.k.a. Tagus River not far from Lisbon — because it’s best known as the grape for the mouth-tingling Vinho Verde from Portugal’s north. Read more

Gregorina, Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) 2012

($15, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Sangiovese, Italy’s most widely planted red grape, is held in high esteem in Tuscany where it is the core for Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and the only grape allowed for Brunello di Montalcino.  Somehow, its glow fades as it hits the Emilia Romagna border, which is a shame because it can produce great value wine there, as Gregorina demonstrates. Read more

Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso (Umbria, Italy) 2012

($20, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Arnaldo-Caprai, one of the great names in the DOCG of Montefalco Sagrantino, also makes an easy to recommend Montefalco Rosso, a junior varsity version of that DOCG.  Whereas regulations for Montefalco Sagrantino require exclusive use of Sagrantino, winemakers are permitted to blend other grapes in Montefalco Rosso, which makes it a far more approachable wine. Read more

Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County (California) Fumé Blanc 2014

($14): It’s abundantly clear that David Stare’s decision in 1972 to plant Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek Valley was brilliant.  That grape brought — and continues to bring — acclaim to Dry Creek Vineyard.  The 2014, labeled, as always, Fumé Blanc (an allusion to the Loire Valley’s Pouilly Fumé) is marvelous with a rich texture offset by grapefruit rind-like bitterness and delicate bite. Read more

Casal Branco, do Tejo (Portugal) “Falcoaria Clássico” 2012

($14, Tri-Vin Imports): Portugal remains a vast, undiscovered country for table (non Port) wines.  Casal Branco’s Falcoaria Clássico is just another example of the value to be found in that part of the Iberian Peninsula.  Casal Branco, a vast 2,700 acre estate with 350 acres of vines, has been in the same family for over 200 years, so it is not exactly a newcomer to winemaking. Read more

Maison Louis Jadot, Mâcon Villages (Burgundy, France) 2014

($14, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Jadot’s 2014 Mâcon Villages offers a fabulous comparison to their very good one from 2012.  While still displaying an engaging creaminess, it’s slightly less rich than the 2012, but has more energy and vivacity.  Those whose tastes run to more voluptuous wines — though still not in the New World ripeness category — will enjoy the 2012. Read more

Maison Louis Jadot, Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) “Domaine Louis Jadot” 2012

($159, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): At first impression, this wine announces its Grand Cru origin. And it keeps sending this signal as you continue to taste it. Part of its grandeur, no doubt, comes from its being an estate wine. (Domaine Louis Jadot in the box at the base of the label means that the grapes come from their portion of the Clos Vougeot vineyard.)Read more

Bodega Septima, Luján de Cuyo (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec 2014

($14, Aveniu Brands): This big red wine has considerable polish, in part, no doubt, because Codorníu Argentina, a subsidiary of the great Spanish wine-producing firm, owns Bodega Septima.  This juicy wine manages concentration without going over the edge.  The tannins are mild, especially considering the overall size of the wine, which means it’s very approachable now and would be a good choice for grilled beef this summer.Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2010

($120, Louis Latour USA): No one produces a better Corton Charlemagne consistently than Maison Louis Latour.  Latour, the largest owner of Corton Charlemagne, has ideally located plots on the hill of Corton.  The sheer extensiveness of their holdings means that even in “difficult” years Latour’s Corton Charlemagne is top-notch because they limit production by selecting only the very best grapes. Read more

Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Merlot Harris Vineyard 2012

($60): The Nickel & Nickel Harris Vineyard Merlot, though similarly floral to their Suscol Ranch bottling, is firmer with more backbone and structure at this stage.  The tannins are more apparent, but still not aggressive or astringent.  It delivers a marvelous leafy character that compliments and reinforces its dark, warm fruit and dense minerality. Read more

Truchard Vineyards, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

($40): One word describes this wine — graceful.  Truchard Vineyards has resisted the temptation to join the crowd with an over-the-top blockbuster Cabernet.  Instead, they’ve chosen the graceful path with a wine displaying an alluring herbaceous quality without being under-ripe.  There’s plenty of power here, but it doesn’t scream or overwhelm your palate — or the food for that matter. Read more

Domaine de la Robinière , Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Bel Air” Sec 2013

($15): The Vouvray appellation is home to an array of fabulous under-valued white wines.  A major impediment to their more widespread popularity is the confusion regarding the level of sweetness.  Domaine de la Robinière (a.k.a. Vincent& Julien Raimbault) help the consumer by labeling their “Bel Air” cuvée as Sec — and it is dry with exhilarating green apple-like freshness that enhances its bracing minerality. Read more

Matanzas Creek Winery, Knights Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc Helena Bench 2013

($40): Matanzas Creek, a pioneering Sonoma County winery founded in 1977, produces five different and distinctive Sauvignon Blanc, each reflecting the origin of the grapes.  You can practically taste and feel the volcanic soil in this Helena Bench bottling, which gives the wine individuality rarely found with this variety in California. Read more

Jordan Vineyard and Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

($53): I am an enthusiastic fan of Jordan’s Cabernets because the team there has, thankfully, resisted the California trend toward super ripe, super rich, bombastic wines.   Although much has changed at Jordan since their founding — the grapes no longer come solely from their vineyards — they continue to focus on Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay and continue to produce harmonious wines. Read more

Louis Latour, Pouilly-Vinzelles (Burgundy, France) “En Paradis” 2012

($22): The attention wines from small growers receive from the press, sommeliers and retailers can make us overlook wines from even the best négociants.  That’s always a mistake and this wine is just another case in point.  Maison Louis Latour, a top-notch Beaune-based négociant, owns no land in Pouilly-Vinzelles, an appellation neighboring Pouilly-Fuissé. Read more