Category Archives: Reviews

Duckhorn, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016

($30):  Though Duckhorn Vineyards may be known, rightly so, for their Merlot-based wines, they also make a strikingly good Sauvignon Blanc.  Their 2016 marries fruitiness and pungency without the former being tropical or overblown and without the latter being shrill.  A suave creaminess likely comes from a touch of Semillon in the blend and the judicious use of oak. Read more

Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Manachiara 2012

($92, Kobrand):  Silvio Nardi, one of my favorite Brunello producers, consistently makes a stunning wine from their Manachiara vineyard, some of whose vines date back to the 1960s.  Located on the east side of Montalcino, the vineyard has a mixture of clay and sand in the soil, which helps account for the wine’s seemingly paradoxical combination of power and elegance. Read more

Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore, Nizza DOC (Piedmont, Italy) La Court 2013

($42, Kobrand):  In addition to making noteworthy Barolo, Chiarlo, a top producer in Piedmont, also makes excellent wine from lesser known areas, such as Nizza.  Starting with the 2014 vintage, this wine will be labeled simply Nizza Riserva DOCG, since this small subzone of the Barbera d’Asti region was recently awarded DOCG status. Read more

Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, Côtes du Rhône-Villages (Rhône Valley, France) “Domaine Grès St. Vincent” 2015

($15, Jenny & François Selections):  This fine co-op, Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, bottles wine from individual members by using a domaine label, such as this one, Domaine Grès St. Vincent.  The usual Mediterranean blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan, produces an unusually fine wine. Read more

Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, Côtes du Rhône-Villages (Rhône Valley, France) “Domaine Les Genestas” 2016

($15, Jenny & François Selections):  This single grower wine, Domaine Les Genestas, from the top-notch co-op on the “other” (western) side of the Rhone delivers power without sacrificing refinement.  Made entirely from Syrah, it combines pepper-like spike with plum-like flavors wrapped in smooth tannins. Read more

Jean-Claude Mas, Crémant de Limoux (Languedoc, France) “Côté Mas M” Brut NV

($16, EDV Esprit du Vin):  Everyone I know is always looking for affordable non-Champagne sparkling wine.  Crémant from France is a good place to look.  Crémant, which literally means creamy, has slightly less pressure than Champagne and is made in many wine-producing areas, such as Crémant de Bourgogne, Crémant d’Alsace, and this one, a Crémant de Limoux from the southwestern part of the country. Read more

Boccadigabbia, Colli Maceratesi DOC (Marche, Italy) Ribona “Le Grane” 2016

($16):  So you’re not familiar with the Colli Maceratesi DOC or the Ribona grape?  Join the club.  Ribona, more commonly known as Maceratino Bianco, takes its name from the city (Macerata) in the western part of the Marche region.  The Colli Maceratesi DOC, comprising only about 600 acres, does not produce a lot of wine, which explains why we in the U.S.Read more

Didier Montchovet, Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2014

($28, Jenny & François Selections):  Didier Montchovet tames the coarseness found in many wines from the “Hautes Côtes.”  In this Pinot Noir-based example, he has fashioned a charmingly rustic Burgundy than marries earthy and fruity qualities.  Montchovet must be talented, indeed, to produce a red like this from the Hautes Côtes in 2014, a difficult year for Pinot Noir in that appellation. Read more

Valdo Spumanti, Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Oro Puro” Brut NV

($15, EDV Esprit du Vin):   Often the line between DOC and DOCG — and IGT, for that matter — is blurred as far as quality is concerned.  Not this time.  For Prosecco that is a cut above the others, reach for the DOCG because it encompasses the original zone where the grapes are grown on less-fertile hillsides, which translates to better wine. Read more

Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Selvabianca” 2016

($20, Artisanal Cellars):  Despite being Italy’s first DOC, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (yes, you read that correctly) rarely receives the accolades it deserves, which is a boon for consumers because its low visibility keeps the prices down.  Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara is one of the region’s top producers, so their wines are a good place to start for consumers who want to know what Vernaccia di San Gimignano should taste like. Read more

Cà di Rajo, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Cuvée del Fondatore” Brut 2016

($17):  Prosecco has gained so much popularity worldwide that its name has replaced the word Champagne as the generic term for all sparkling wine. Sadly, much Prosecco is mass-produced and uninteresting.  Typically, the path to finding a more distinctive Prosecco takes the consumer to a difficult to pronounce DOCG, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. Read more

Quintarelli, Valpolicella Classico Superiore (Veneto, Italy) 2009

($85, Kermit Lynch):  Valpolicella originally was an inexpensive delightfully light red wine, not an “important” or prestigious one.  Over the last several decades, many producers have ramped it up by performing a “ripasso,” adding either dried grapes or the leftover must from another fermentation to the fresh pressed juice, which increased the alcohol content and the overall weight of the finished wine. Read more

Rocca delle Maciè, Morellino di Scansano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Campo Macione” 2015

($15, Palm Bay International):  Rocca delle Maciè consistently makes lovely Chianti Classico, so it’s no surprise that they succeed with the Sangiovese grape further south in Scansano.  Their Morellino di Scansano 2015 focuses more on ripe cherry-like fruit than earthiness, but a hint of savory notes and bright acidity keeps it in balance. Read more

Patrick Piuze, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Coteau de Fontanay” 2016

($29, David Bowler Wine):  Though another one of Piuze’s village Chablis comes from Fontanay, not far from Fyé, it has a very different signature, showing there are dramatic differences between the communes than make up the greater Chablis appellation.  Piuze’s 2016 Coteau de Fontanay has a touch more ripeness and roundness than his Terroir de Fyé, while maintaining an underlying and balancing vivacity and edginess. Read more

Patrick Piuze, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Terroir de Fyé” 2016

($29, David Bowler Wine):   There is a longstanding tradition of identifying vineyards when making Chablis Premier and Grand Cru.  Fewer producers do that with village wines, preferring to simply label the wine Chablis.  Piuze, who like many relatively new small négociants owns no vineyards, opting instead to buy grapes from local growers, is able to take an intermediate approach. Read more

Tenuta Sette Cieli, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Scipio” 2010

($92, Wilson Daniels): It’s not surprising to see more estates popping up in Bolgheri, the area of the Tuscan coast that’s home to super star such as, Sassicaia and Ornellaia.  Moreover, it stands to reason that there’s potential for other producers to find the correct microclimates for their interpretation of wines made from the Bordeaux varieties. Read more

Migration, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard 2014

($68): The orientation of the Santa Maria Valley is unusual in California because in runs East-West rather than the usual North-South.  As such, the vineyards there are exposed directly to the cooling influences of the Pacific Ocean.  That climatic difference explains the difference in character between Santa Maria-grown Pinot Noir and those from the Russian River Valley. Read more