($30): Though Duckhorn Vineyards may be known, rightly so, for their Merlot-based wines, they also make a strikingly good Sauvignon Blanc. Their 2016 marries fruitiness and pungency without the former being tropical or overblown and without the latter being shrill. A suave creaminess likely comes from a touch of Semillon in the blend and the judicious use of oak. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Manachiara 2012
($92, Kobrand): Silvio Nardi, one of my favorite Brunello producers, consistently makes a stunning wine from their Manachiara vineyard, some of whose vines date back to the 1960s. Located on the east side of Montalcino, the vineyard has a mixture of clay and sand in the soil, which helps account for the wine’s seemingly paradoxical combination of power and elegance. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore, Nizza DOC (Piedmont, Italy) La Court 2013
($42, Kobrand): In addition to making noteworthy Barolo, Chiarlo, a top producer in Piedmont, also makes excellent wine from lesser known areas, such as Nizza. Starting with the 2014 vintage, this wine will be labeled simply Nizza Riserva DOCG, since this small subzone of the Barbera d’Asti region was recently awarded DOCG status. … Read more
Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, Côtes du Rhône-Villages (Rhône Valley, France) “Domaine Grès St. Vincent” 2015
($15, Jenny & François Selections): This fine co-op, Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, bottles wine from individual members by using a domaine label, such as this one, Domaine Grès St. Vincent. The usual Mediterranean blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan, produces an unusually fine wine. … Read more
Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, Côtes du Rhône-Villages (Rhône Valley, France) “Domaine Les Genestas” 2016
($15, Jenny & François Selections): This single grower wine, Domaine Les Genestas, from the top-notch co-op on the “other” (western) side of the Rhone delivers power without sacrificing refinement. Made entirely from Syrah, it combines pepper-like spike with plum-like flavors wrapped in smooth tannins. … Read more
Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Grandes Vignes” 2016
($15, Jenny & François Selections): I know this producer, a co-operative, well, having rented a summer vacation house fifteen minutes down the road every year for a decade. They have many bottlings and many labels, but one thing that is constant is the quality of their wines and the value they deliver. … Read more
Jean-Claude Mas, Crémant de Limoux (Languedoc, France) “Côté Mas M” Brut NV
($16, EDV Esprit du Vin): Everyone I know is always looking for affordable non-Champagne sparkling wine. Crémant from France is a good place to look. Crémant, which literally means creamy, has slightly less pressure than Champagne and is made in many wine-producing areas, such as Crémant de Bourgogne, Crémant d’Alsace, and this one, a Crémant de Limoux from the southwestern part of the country. … Read more
Boccadigabbia, Colli Maceratesi DOC (Marche, Italy) Ribona “Le Grane” 2016
($16): So you’re not familiar with the Colli Maceratesi DOC or the Ribona grape? Join the club. Ribona, more commonly known as Maceratino Bianco, takes its name from the city (Macerata) in the western part of the Marche region. The Colli Maceratesi DOC, comprising only about 600 acres, does not produce a lot of wine, which explains why we in the U.S.… Read more
Didier Montchovet, Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2014
($29, Jenny & François Selections): Since the prices for Côte d’Or Burgundy have gone through the roof, Burgundy lovers must look elsewhere. The Hautes Côtes de Beaune, the hinterland really off the beaten track, is a good starting point if you can find a producer who can tame the inherent rusticity in wines from this appellation.… Read more
Domaine Oudin, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaugiraut 2014
($35, Jenny & François Selections): Chablis remains one of the best values in white wine. Where else can you find a Chardonnay-based wine, a premier cru no less, with such character for the price? Nowhere. Domaine Oudin uses no oak aging, enhancing the complexity and body of this wine by stirring the lees. … Read more
Didier Montchovet, Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2014
($28, Jenny & François Selections): Didier Montchovet tames the coarseness found in many wines from the “Hautes Côtes.” In this Pinot Noir-based example, he has fashioned a charmingly rustic Burgundy than marries earthy and fruity qualities. Montchovet must be talented, indeed, to produce a red like this from the Hautes Côtes in 2014, a difficult year for Pinot Noir in that appellation. … Read more
Valdo Spumanti, Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Oro Puro” Brut NV
($15, EDV Esprit du Vin): Often the line between DOC and DOCG — and IGT, for that matter — is blurred as far as quality is concerned. Not this time. For Prosecco that is a cut above the others, reach for the DOCG because it encompasses the original zone where the grapes are grown on less-fertile hillsides, which translates to better wine. … Read more
Valdo Spumanti, Prosecco DOC (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV
($10, EDV Esprit du Vin): There is a lot of inexpensive Prosecco on the market, most of it giving the category a bad name. Not this one. Tasted side-by-side with Valdo’s stable mate release from the Veneto’s prime region, Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG (also reviewed this week), it pales in comparison. … Read more
Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Selvabianca” 2016
($20, Artisanal Cellars): Despite being Italy’s first DOC, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (yes, you read that correctly) rarely receives the accolades it deserves, which is a boon for consumers because its low visibility keeps the prices down. Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara is one of the region’s top producers, so their wines are a good place to start for consumers who want to know what Vernaccia di San Gimignano should taste like. … Read more
Fattoria Fibbiano, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Ciliegiolo 2015
($30, Artisanal Cellars): Often confused with Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, which means small cherries, usually comprises part of a blend. But a few producers, such as Fibbiano, make a monovarietal wine from it. This is a lovely example, combining cherry-like fruit, earthiness and an attractive subtle bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Assuli, Terre Siciliane IGT (Italy) Nero d’Avola “Besi” 2014
($18): Enter a different style of Nero d’Avola. Assuli’s emphasizes the fruitier side of the grape. At 14.5 percent stated alcohol, it is riper and more lush, with fewer savory notes than the Nero d’Avola from Barone Sergio (also reviewed this week). … Read more
Barone Sergio, Eloro DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Sergio” 2010
($19, Artisanal Cellars): Nero d’Avola, the most widely planted red grape in Sicily, makes a diverse style of wine, ranging from fruity to more savory depending on where the grape grows and the producer’s style. This one focuses on the earthy, herbal character, though there’s plenty of dark fruit flavor as well. … Read more
Prà, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) Monte Grande 2016
($29, Vinifera Imports): Prà, like Pieropan, is a benchmark producer of Soave Classico. The Prà name on a label is as good a guarantee of quality as you can get. Their flagship Soave Classico bottling is from the well-regarded and well-situated Monte Grande vineyard. … Read more
Pieropan, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) Calvarino 2015
($26): Pieropan is undoubtedly one of great names in Soave. They have been instrumental in resurrecting the prestige of the area with their consistent production of stellar wines, from their “regular” (though none of their wines are “regular”) Soave Classico to their single vineyard bottlings, such as this one. … Read more
Cà di Rajo, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Cuvée del Fondatore” Brut 2016
($17): Prosecco has gained so much popularity worldwide that its name has replaced the word Champagne as the generic term for all sparkling wine. Sadly, much Prosecco is mass-produced and uninteresting. Typically, the path to finding a more distinctive Prosecco takes the consumer to a difficult to pronounce DOCG, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. … Read more
Quintarelli, Valpolicella Classico Superiore (Veneto, Italy) 2009
($85, Kermit Lynch): Valpolicella originally was an inexpensive delightfully light red wine, not an “important” or prestigious one. Over the last several decades, many producers have ramped it up by performing a “ripasso,” adding either dried grapes or the leftover must from another fermentation to the fresh pressed juice, which increased the alcohol content and the overall weight of the finished wine. … Read more
Rocca delle Maciè, Morellino di Scansano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Campo Macione” 2015
($15, Palm Bay International): Rocca delle Maciè consistently makes lovely Chianti Classico, so it’s no surprise that they succeed with the Sangiovese grape further south in Scansano. Their Morellino di Scansano 2015 focuses more on ripe cherry-like fruit than earthiness, but a hint of savory notes and bright acidity keeps it in balance. … Read more
Feudi di San Gregorio, Falanghina del Sannio DOC (Campania, Italy) 2015
($15, Palm Bay International): Falanghina, the grape was named after falengae, the Latin word for the stakes the Romans used to support the vine, is my “go to” wine in Italian restaurants with modest wine lists because it almost always represents good value.… Read more
Vazart-Coquart et Fils, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
($52): Not many producers make a non-vintage Blanc de Blanc Champagne. Fortunately, this small grower does. Made entirely from Chardonnay grown in the Grand Cru village of Chouilly, it’s enticingly creamy and elegant. A delicate toasty, yeasty element just adds to its allure. … Read more
Domaine Louis Michel, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2014
($66): My advice to Chablis-lovers is to snap up this wine. It’s really no surprise since it’s a trifecta: Louis Michel is a great producer of pure distinctive Chablis, Vaudésir along with Les Clos are the two top Grand Cru vineyard sites in Chablis, and 2014 was a stellar vintage for white Burgundy in general. … Read more
Patrick Piuze, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Coteau de Fontanay” 2016
($29, David Bowler Wine): Though another one of Piuze’s village Chablis comes from Fontanay, not far from Fyé, it has a very different signature, showing there are dramatic differences between the communes than make up the greater Chablis appellation. Piuze’s 2016 Coteau de Fontanay has a touch more ripeness and roundness than his Terroir de Fyé, while maintaining an underlying and balancing vivacity and edginess. … Read more
Patrick Piuze, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Terroir de Fyé” 2016
($29, David Bowler Wine): There is a longstanding tradition of identifying vineyards when making Chablis Premier and Grand Cru. Fewer producers do that with village wines, preferring to simply label the wine Chablis. Piuze, who like many relatively new small négociants owns no vineyards, opting instead to buy grapes from local growers, is able to take an intermediate approach. … Read more
Cà Rugate, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) “San Michele” 2016
($16): Not a single-vineyard wine, San Michele is the name. Cà Rugate’s San Michele bottling is a blend from several of their vineyards located in the Soave Classico subregion, the best area for Soave production. More fruity than mineraly, it blossoms with air, befitting a young wine. … Read more
Nardello, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) 2016
($14): Nardello is one of the producers changing the image of Soave. A key to finding top quality Soave is to look for those, such as this one, that comes from the Classico subregion. Fortunately for consumers the price of Soave from these top producers has not caught up to the quality.… Read more
Cà Rugate, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) Monte Fiorentine 2015
($20): Both the 2015 and 2016 are in some markets simultaneously. They offer a superb example of the differences between the vintages, with 2015 being riper and 2016 being racier. Hence, something for everyone. Cà Rugate opts to use Garganaga exclusively from this 15-acre vineyard that sits about 600 feet above sea level. … Read more
Cà Rugate, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) Monte Fiorentine 2016
($20): This wine ticks all the right boxes. Cà Rugate is a top Soave producer. Monte Fiorentine, a single-vineyard bottling from their old vineyards with vines that are approximately 50 years old, according to Francesco Ganci, their Italian commercial direction, is their top Soave. … Read more
Ottella, Lugana Riserva (Veneto, Italy) “Molceo” 2014
($30): Wines like this one will make Lugana a common name. That Ottella could make a wine this polished in 2014, a “challenging” year, to say the least, shows the dedication of this producer. It’s floral and elegant, with just the right understated hints of tropical fruit.… Read more
Le Morette, Lugana DOC (Veneto, Italy) Mandolara 2016
($22): Lugana, a small DOC just south of Lake Garda, is a treasure trove of well-priced white wines. Le Morette’s single-vineyard Mandolara is just one example. The grape, formerly thought to be Trebbiano di Soave (and sometimes still referred to that on labels), is Turbiano, a distinctly different variety as determined by DNA analysis. … Read more
Cavalchina, Custoza Superiore (Veneto, Italy) “Amedeo” 2015
($18): The Custoza DOC, formerly known as Bianco di Custoza, has suffered in the past from watered-down versions made by co-ops and other industrial-sized producers. Cavalchina is trying to change the reputation and certainly will do so as more consumers taste their wines. … Read more
Guyot Choppin, Champagne (France) NV
($30): Real Champagne at 30 bucks a bottle these days makes you stop and look. One taste makes you buy a case. Fresh and delicately fruity, this lighter styled Champagne has the elegance and length you’d expect. Those looking for a toasty bigger style of Champagne will be disappointed, but others who favor the more delicate style will embrace this bargain-priced bubbly.… Read more
Domaine des Gandines, Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) NV
($17): Domaine des Gandines, a family run winery located in the Mâconnais, produces a variety of still white wines from that region, Viré-Clessé, and Macon-Peronne, that are available in the U.S. This Crémant, as good as it is — and well priced to boot — is not available yet, but hopefully that will change.… Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Volnay (Burgundy, France) 2015
($50): As the 2015 red Burgundies begin to hit retailers’ shelves, they confirm my initial enthusiasm for this vintage. Take, for example, this Volnay, a village wine from one of Burgundy’s top négociants. Floral and lacey, it conveys the quintessential Burgundy characteristic that I call “flavor without weight.” … Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Colli Martani DOC (Umbria, Italy) “Grecante” 2016
($18, Wilson Daniels): Historically, white wines from Umbria, made from the Grechetto grape, were called Greco, Grechetto or Grecante. Arnaldo-Caprai, one of the region’s leading producers, opted from Grecante, but the grape name still appears on the label as well. This white combines freshness with an intriguing subtle nuttiness. … Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso DOC (Umbria, Italy) 2014
($20, Wilson Daniels): The major problem facing growers of Sagrantino di Montefalco, a prestigious DOCG in Umbria, is how to make the wine more approachable when young — Sagrantino has ferocious tannins — without eviscerating it. Enter the Montefalco Rosso DOC, which gives the consumer a chance get a hint of what the region has to offer. … Read more
Pommery, Champagne (France) “Apanage” Rosé Brut NV
($72): This is a show-stopper of a Rosé. With eyes closed, it has the power and a hint of tannin — like the texture of peach-skin — that would make you think you’re drinking red wine. Full-bodied, but elegant and suave, it’s a great as an aperitif, but also marvelous with food. … Read more
Pommery, Champagne (France) “Cuvée Louise” Brut 2004
($100): Cuvée Louise is Pommery’s top of the line Champagne. Made from a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from three Grand Cru villages, the 2004 is stunning, combining power and elegance. The elegance comes from the Chardonnay and persists throughout the extraordinary finish. … Read more
Gloria Ferrer, Sonoma County (California) “Anniversary Cuvée” 2010
($40): This is a gorgeous sparkling wine from one of California leading sparkling wine producers. A blend of roughly 2/3rds Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay, it delivers a delicately fruity and creamy mixture that enlivens the palate. An attractive hint of yeastiness, from 5 and 1/2 years on the lees adds complexity without weightiness. … Read more
Tenuta Sette Cieli, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Scipio” 2010
($92, Wilson Daniels): It’s not surprising to see more estates popping up in Bolgheri, the area of the Tuscan coast that’s home to super star such as, Sassicaia and Ornellaia. Moreover, it stands to reason that there’s potential for other producers to find the correct microclimates for their interpretation of wines made from the Bordeaux varieties. … Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($60, Kobrand): Tenute Silvio Nardi produces classically framed Brunello that reveal their substantial charms slowly. They have vineyards both in the northwest and southeast section of the DOCG zone, which allows them to capture the virtues of each of those zones by using grapes from both of them for this wine. … Read more
Boizel, Champagne (France) 2007
($81, Palm Bay Imports): A blend of Pinot Noir (50%), Chardonnay (40%) and Pinot Meunier, Boizel’s 2007 Champagne combines power and elegance. The wonderful spine of acidity, reflective of the vintage, balances the wine’s power perfectly. The impeccable balance of concentration and grace allows you to enjoy it as a stand-alone aperitif or with food.… Read more
Boizel, Champagne (France) Brut Blanc de Blancs NV
($66, Palm Bay Imports): Blanc de Blancs on a Champagne label, unlike on the label of a still wine, actually means something very specific — the wine was made using only Chardonnay. All Blanc de Blancs are expensive because Chardonnay is in great demand in the Champagne region and most are vintage dated, which adds to the price. … Read more
Migration, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard 2014
($68): The orientation of the Santa Maria Valley is unusual in California because in runs East-West rather than the usual North-South. As such, the vineyards there are exposed directly to the cooling influences of the Pacific Ocean. That climatic difference explains the difference in character between Santa Maria-grown Pinot Noir and those from the Russian River Valley. … Read more
Sonoma-Loeb, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch 2015
($40): The most striking aspect of this Pinot Noir is its difference from Sonoma Loeb’s Bateman Ranch bottling. Why extol the differences? Because Pinot Noir is the best red grape for expressing the vineyard and these two wines — Dutton Ranch and Bateman Ranch — do just that. … Read more
Sonoma-Loeb, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Bateman Ranch 2015
($60): Sonoma-Loeb’s Bateman Ranch Pinot Noir emphasizes the mineral-like flavors as opposed to the fruit flavors of their Dutton Ranch bottling. It’s firmer than the Dutton Ranch bottling, but like its brother, it has impeccable balance and suave tannins. Is one “better” than the other? … Read more
Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2012
($16, Vintus): If there is a more enjoyable red wine at this price, I’d like to know about it. Guigal’s Côtes du Rhône is always an excellent value and the 2012 is no exception. It’s riper and a touch fruitier than the racier 2013, which is also on the market. … Read more