($55): 
The 2015 vintage for red Bordeaux is, by and large, wonderful. In general, the wines deliver ripe flavors accompanied by sufficient structure — tannins and acidity — that prevent them from falling all over themselves. Château Lagrange, which has just gone from strength to strength over the last two decades, made an impressive wine in 2015. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Château Thivin, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2017
($28, Kermit Lynch): 
Château Thivin is THE producer Côte de Brouilly, one of the ten crus of Beaujolais, which sits on a small ancient volcanic cone. The Geoffray family purchased the estate, which had been in existence since the 12th century, in 1877. … Read more
Château Thivin, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Reverdon” 2017
($24, Kermit Lynch): 
Château Thivin owns about 18 acres of this 65-acre east-facing vineyard in Brouilly, the largest and most southern of Beaujolais’ ten cru. Lighter and fruitier than their Côte de Brouilly, it still conveys underlying minerality because of the rose-granite soil in the vineyard. … Read more
Steele, Red Hills, Lake County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
($28): 
What’s particularly impressive about this Cabernet Sauvignon is the complexity and poise it delivers for the price. It should be surprise because of Jed Steele’s experience and the source of the grapes. The Red Hills part of Lake County is a relatively new AVA. … Read more
ZD Wines, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
($75): 
ZD has produced a quintessential Napa Valley Cabernet and shows, once again, why that region is one of the best places in the world for that grape. It’s a powerful Cabernet — it is from California, after all — but it has elegance and is not overdone. … Read more
Steele, Carneros (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard 2016
($36): 
Jed Steele has captured the lovely delicacy and subtle savory notes that are the hallmarks of Pinot Noir. Lively acidity keeps it fresh, while fine tannins allow enjoyment now, without additional bottle aging. It finishes with a hint of sweetness, which allows you to enjoy a glass by itself while preparing to grill the salmon.… Read more
Rivera, Castel del Monte DOC (Puglia, Italy) Nero di Troia “Violante” 2015
($17): 
Nero di Troia, a virtually unknown grape outside of Puglia, is capable of making attractively rustic — in a good way — wine. This one packs a punch, but without the rough tannins that frequently accompany that kind of power. … Read more
Feudi di San Gregorio, Irpinia Aglianico DOC (Campania, Italy) “Rubrato” 2015
($17, Terlato Wines International): 
Wines made from the Aglianico grape are often referred to as the Barolo of the South because of their firm tannins, high acidity, overall depth and need for bottle age to bring all the components together. Feudi San Gregorio has managed to marry these elements in this Aglianico and make it a pleasure to drink now — as long as you select the correct food and time of year. … Read more
Columbia Winery, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
($16): 
This is why people love Cabernet. Not just fruit, but enticing hints of herbs and savory notes penetrate this wine. Similar to Columbia Winery’s Merlot, this Cabernet finishes with bitterness, not sweetness, which I find is essential if you want to drink more than a sip. … Read more
Columbia Winery, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2016
($16): 
Here is a reminder that good character-filled wine is available for less than $20. A solid and deep Merlot, it combines herbal nuances with dark fruit notes. Supple tannins mean it’s perfect for a hearty beef dish tonight. A delectable hint of bitterness in the finish reinforces the idea that this Merlot is meant more for the table than for, “I’ll have a glass of Merlot” at the bar.… Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) “The Mariner” 2014
($52): 
This is a Cabernet-based powerhouse Bordeaux blend that includes, in addition to that grape, Petit Verdot, Malbec (yes, it used to be, and still is, planted in Bordeaux), and Cabernet Franc. Despite its depth and power, the finely polished tannins allow for current consumption. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Old Vine Zinfandel 2016
($22): 
Full disclosure, I generally do not like Zinfandel, so I may be under scoring this wine. This is a masterful blend of Zinfandel (78%) from dry-farmed, 95-plus year old vineyards, Petite Sirah and Carignan. Dry-farmed vineyards ensure that the roots of the vines go deep to find water and presumably other compounds that add to the flavor of the grapes and, subsequently, to the wine. … Read more
Donnafugata, Cerasuolo de Vittorio DOCG (Sicily, Italy) “Floramundi” 2016
($30, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
Donnafugata, one of Sicily’s top producers, has shown consistently what stunningly good wines can come from that Italian island. Donnafugata’s 2016 Cerasuolo de Vittorio, a blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato, is a delicate light to mid-weight floral red wine with charm and vivacity. … Read more
Guicciardini Strozzi, Bolgheri DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Ocra” 2016
($30): 
A seamless blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (40%) and Syrah, this classy red delivers far more refinement and complexity than you’d expect for the price. It conveys a touch of everything — black fruit notes, herbal nuances, and spice — and not too much of anything. … Read more
Castello di Meleto, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Borgaio Rosso” 2015
($12, Golden Ram Imports): 
Borgaio di Meleto is a second label of Meleto, one of the top Chianti Classico producers. A value-packed juicy blend of Sangiovese (70%) and Merlot, this mid-weight red delivers both fruity and herbal elements. Surprising complexity for a wine of this price likely comes from a touch of oak aging in large old barrels. … Read more
Castello di Meleto, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2016
($20, Golden Ram Imports): 
Castello di Meleto, a top Chianti Classico producer based in Gaiole, has abandoned new French oak barrels for aging their Chianti Classico and eliminated the international varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, in the blend. Instead, the wine is 100 percent Sangiovese that has been aged in large old Slavonian oak barrels. … Read more
Castello di Meleto, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Vigneti Casi Riserva 2013
($25, Golden Ram Imports): 
The wines from Castello di Meleto need to be re-visited because the current releases deliver extraordinary pleasure for the price. This marvelous Chianti Classico Reserva from their Vigneti Casi vineyards is both juicy and polished with a gorgeous texture. … Read more
Guicciardini Strozzi, Bolgheri DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Ocra” 2016
($30): A seamless blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (40%) and Syrah, this classy red delivers far more refinement and complexity than you’d expect for the price. It conveys a touch of everything — black fruit notes, herbal nuances, and spice — and not too much of anything. … Read more
Schiopetto, Collio (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2016
($30): 
White wines of Italy are often overlooked because of the stature of the country’s reds. Schiopetto, one of the top producers in the Collio, shows the heights that white wines can achieve in Italy. This 2016 Friulano amazes with its lanolin-like texture.… Read more
Raphael, New York (United States) Riesling 2017
($17): 
The problem for consumers with Riesling is knowing the level of sweetness since the grape is capable of producing superb bone-dry wines as well as gloriously sweet ones. Raphael, one of top properties on Long Island’s North Fork, helps by indicating on the back that their Riesling is semi-sweet. … Read more
Carpenè Malvolti, Veneto (Italy) Rosé, Cuvée Brut NV
($18, Angelini Wine, Ltd): 
Carpenè Malvolti, a top Prosecco producer, has fashioned this rosé bubbly from Pinot Noir (85%) and Rabosco, grown in the Veneto. Since rosé is not recognized as Prosecco category, this wine carries no legal designation. But don’t let that bother you. … Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2015
($26, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Silvio Nardi is one of Brunello’s top producers. Always traditionally framed, you’ll never feel or taste a predominance of oak or wood in their wines. This Rosso comes from grapes grown vineyards some of which are designated for Rosso and some of which are designated for Brunello. … Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($58, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
In addition to their Rosso di Montalcino, Tenuta Silvio Nardi producers three Brunelli, all of which are different and all of which I recommend highly. Indeed, their two single vineyard bottlings show the diversity of this region. … Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio Doria 2012
($106, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Tenuta Silvio Nardi’s Poggio Doria comes from a parcel, Oria, in their Casale del Bosco estate, which is located in the northwest portion of the Brunello zone. Volcanic soil here helps explain its firmness and tighter profile. … Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Manachiara 2012
($98, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Silvio Nardi’s Manachiara estate, located in the eastern portion of the Montalcino zones, comprises about 550 acres, of which about 125 are planted. This Brunello is always explosive and the 2012 is no exception. Its gorgeous aromatics grab your attention immediately. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) “Le Orme” 2015
($14, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Barbera is often a “go-to” wine for Italian food because its inherent acidity keeps it juicy and lively throughout the meal. The difficulty is that the spectrum of Barbera is enormous, from astringent and hard to swallow to captivating. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Tortoniano” 2013
($51): 
This marvelous Barolo comes from grapes grown in the Cerequio and Sarmassa vineyards. It’s classically proportioned, with a Burgundian-like sensibility of “flavor without weight.” Elegant and refined, it packs plenty of flavor without a trace of heaviness. Substantial, yet not aggressive tannins, in the finish remind you it’s a youthful Barolo. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Cerequio 2013
($103, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
With the trio of producer, vintage and vineyard going for it, it’s not surprising that Chiarlo’s Cerequio is outstanding. The 2013 vintage in Barolo was very successful. Chiarlo is a top producer and Cerequio is a great vineyard. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Cannubi 2013
($100, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
OMG, as good as Chiarlo’s 2013 Cerequio is, their Cannubi is just better. It stops you in your tracks. Chiarlo owns about 3 acres of Cannubi, which is Barolo’s most famous vineyard. They are so selective and quality-oriented that they usually wind up using only half of their Cannubi crop for this wine. … Read more
Dutton Estate, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch “Karmen Isabella” 2016
($46): 
There’s plenty going on in the broad-shouldered Pinot Noir. Savory leafy elements and spice complement and offset the ripe black fruit notes. Suave supple tannins lend support without being intrusive. A touch of heat in the finish — from the 14.2 percent stated alcohol — perturbs this otherwise nicely balanced wine.… Read more
Marjan Simcic, Goriska Brda (Slovenia) Rebula Medana Jama “Opoka” 2015
($35): 
Marjan Simcic, one the region’s top producers, has three tiers of wines made from Rebula (aka Ribolla Gialla). This one, from a single vineyard with 62-year old vines, is at the pinnacle. He ferments these white grapes for 16 days with the skins, just as he does for his reds, and then ages the wine in large and small oak barrels for up to two years. … Read more
Mionetto, Prosecco Treviso DOC (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV
($13): 
With a lot of producers taking advantage of the popularity of Prosecco and producing vapid characterless swill, it’s a pleasure to find a bottle of the real thing. Clean and refreshing, this one has a welcome hint of bitterness in the finish that actually amplifies the wine’s fruitiness.… Read more
Jermann, Friuli DOC (Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2017
($23): 
Pinot Grigio has become so popular that, for many, it is a commodity, as in “I’ll have a glass of Pinot Grigio…” with no sense of site or producer. The result is that a bevy of innocuous watery Pinot Grigio have diluted (no pun intended) the wine’s reputation. … Read more
Laherte Frères, Champagne (France) “Ultradition” Rosé NV
($50, Polaner Selections): 
Made entirely from Pinot Meunier, this powerful yet graceful Champagne, shows how that grape, in the right hands, can excel. The Pinot Meunier comes from old vines, which likely explains the wine’s elegance because that grape is more often used to bring fruitiness, not finesse, to the blend. … Read more
Domaine Pinson, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Forêt 2016
($44): 
Pinson, one of my favorite Chablis producers, makes wines, even their village Chablis, that are focused, precise and well-priced. This one, from a lesser known site, is quintessential Premier Cru Chablis, delivering a fine flinty stony signature that expands in the glass, but never becomes heavy or ripe. … Read more
Dutton Estate, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Dutton Ranch “Kyndall’s Reserve” 2016
($42): 
With its 14.7 percent stated-alcohol, this is a broad-shouldered Chardonnay. Fruit-focused and framed with subtle flavors from oak aging, it is actually balanced considering its size. Its overt, up-front flavors would go well with sautéed veal or a roast chicken.… Read more
La Crema, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2016
($25): 
La Crema sources the grapes for this Pinot Noir from the potentially better-suited vineyards on the Sonoma Coast. Compared to their Monterey bottling, the sweetness in this one is replaced by bright, ripe red fruit notes mixed with alluring herbal and leafy flavors. … Read more
La Crema, Monterey (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir 2016
($23): 
It’s difficult to find reasonable Pinot Noir under $25 a bottle because it is a difficult grape to grow and even more difficult to turn into wine, especially if the producer doesn’t limit yield. In this one, La Crema balances a hint of cherry-like sweetness with briary elements. … Read more
Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja Reserva (Spain) 2014
($26): 
This mid-weight red is a spectacular bargain, which should not come as a surprise because Marqués de Murrieta is one of the leaders in the Rioja. A blend of mostly Tempranillo (84%) with Graciano, Mazuelo and Garnacha, it manages to delivers both fruity and savory elements enrobed by fine tannins. … Read more
Bodegas Terras Gauda, O Rosal, Rias Baixas (Spain) 2017
($21): 
O Rosal, named for a sub-region of Rias Baixas, is the flagship of Bodegas Terras Gauda, one of the region’s top producers, according to their website. The addition of Caiño and Loureiro to the blend adds roundness and complexity to the cutting spiciness that Albariño, the predominant grape of the region, brings to the table. … Read more
Luis Anxo Rodriguez Vázquez, Ribeiro (Galicia, Spain) “Eidos Ermos” 2016
($16, Skurnik Wines): 
Luis Anxo Rodriguez Vázquez has at least two things working against him, his size and location. He has just over 12 acres spread over 100 tiny plots in the rather obscure DO of Ribeiro. What he has going for him is the ability to make excellent wine. … Read more
Llopart, Cava (Spain) Brut Nature Reserva 2015
($23): 
Llopart consistently gets it right because they are one of the oldest producers of Cava. The Brut Nature category requires the best grapes because regulations require that sugar, which could potentially mask flaws, may not be added during dosage. Unsurprisingly, Llopart got it right with this 2015 Reserva. … Read more
Famille Hugel, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer “Classic” 2014
($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons): 
Gewürztraminer, with its overtly spicy and floral components, is a wine people either love or hate. Although I’m in the “love” category, I still find it frustrating because of the unknown level of sweetness it conveys, from steely dry to rather sweet. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay Estate Grown 2015
($43): 
Grgich Hills Estate is certainly among California’s leading producers across the board, and especially for Chardonnay. Indeed, year in and year out, they produce excellent examples. This wonderfully full-bodied wine manages to maintain balance with zippy crisp acidity and whiff of smokiness. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Legacy Selection: Paris Tasting Commemorative” 2015
($95): 
As much as I love Grgich’s “regular” (though there’s nothing at all regular about it) Chardonnay, this Legacy Selection is just show-stopping. For all its power and intensity, it is amazingly refined and graceful. The phrase, “iron fist in a velvet glove,” is usually reserved for red wines, but it is equally applicable here. … Read more
Eugenio Collavini, Friuli Colli Orientali (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Ribolla Gialla Turian 2016
($25): 
I love the sound — ree-bow-la jala — when ordering this wine. The only problem is the plethora or styles — barrel fermented, orange or this beautifully fresh and vibrant version by Collavini. There is no warning on the label alerting the consumer to the style, so once again, it’s producer, producer, producer. … Read more
Eugenio Collavini, Vino Spumante di Qualitá (Friuli, Italy) Ribolla Gialla Brut 2014
($20): 
You’re excused if you’ve never heard of the Ribolla Gialla grape, which is unique to the Fruili region in northeastern Italy and adjacent Slovenia. Even most of those who have heard of the grape don’t realize that it can be used for sparkling wine as well as still. … Read more
Bouvet-Ladubay, Crémant de Loire (Loire Valley, France) “Brut Excellence” 2015
($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Taittinger, a top Champagne house, has owned Bovet-Ladubay since the mid-1970s and that likely explains, at least in part, the wine’s elegance and focus. A blend of Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay, this bubbly is steely, crisp, and refreshing. … Read more
Georges Duboeuf, Pays d’Oc (Languedoc, France) Chardonnay 2017
($12, Quintessential): 
Georges DuBoeuf, whose name is synonymous with Beaujolais and Flower Bottles, is expanding yet again to the south of France. He’s no stranger to Chardonnay, bottling some excellent examples from closer to home in the Mâconnais, such as a delightful Mâcon-Villages and an even more up-scale Pouilly Fuissé. … Read more
Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer Reserve 2016
($22, Foley Family Artisan Imports & Spirits): 
Gewürztraminer, a wine that consumers either love or hate, can be challenging to order because its level of sweetness varies. Fortunately, Albrecht has placed a sweetness scale used by many Riesling producers on the back label to guide consumers. … Read more