Category Archives: Reviews

Louis Jadot, Coteaux Bourguignon, Burgundy, France, 2017

Drinking Window: 2020 – 2024
Jadot combines Pinot Noir grown in Givry in the Côte Chalonnaise with Gamay from Beaujolais and releases it after an extended time in bottle, which is why 2017 is the current vintage. Blending 75% Gamay and 25% Pinot Noir in 2017, it shows the virtue of using these two grapes: the spine and savoury nuances provided by Pinot Noir act as a foil for Gamay’s red fruit-like profile in this beautifully balanced wine.
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Domaine Jean & Gilles Lafouge, Coteaux Bourguignon, 2017

Drinking Window: 2020 – 2022
This superb grower, based in Auxey-Duresses, used the flexible regulations of Coteaux Bourguignons to tweak its usual blend of consistently winsome Passe-tout-grains. The 2017 contains 70% Gamay and 30% Pinot Noir, both from slopes around the winery where the limestone-rich soil imparts even more acidity to the Gamay than the granitic soil of Beaujolais.
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Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2019

($20):  The inclusion of Sauvignon Gris, a faintly colored mutation of Sauvignon Blanc, and Sauvignon Musqué, which some believe is a biotype of Sauvignon Blanc, helps explain this wine’s appealing fleshy texture.  (Sauvignon Musqué and Sauvignon Blanc have identical DNA and therefore are the same grape, according to Jancis Robinson et al’s Wine Grapes.) Read more

Siduri Wines, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2018

($35):  Siduri, named for the Babylonian goddess of wine, specializes in Pinot Noir, especially single vineyard bottlings.  According to their website they make only single vineyard wines from a total of 20 vineyards throughout California and Oregon.  Fortunately, they have expanded their production and now produce blended wines from three appellations: Willamette Valley in Oregon, plus two from California, specifically, Santa Barbara County, and the Russian River Valley. Read more

Siduri Wines, Santa Barbara County (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir 2018

($30):  The grapes for this multi-vineyard bottling come primarily from the Sta. Rita Valley, whose east-west orientation is rare in California where most of the valleys run north-south.  Sta. Rita’s orientation allows cool Pacific Ocean influences to reduce temperatures, especially close to the coast, making it an ideal locale for growing Pinot Noir, a grape that prefers lower temperatures to higher ones. Read more

Siduri Wines, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2018

($40):  Siduri, known for their single-vineyard bottlings of Pinot Noir has expanded their portfolio to include ones from a variety of vineyards.   In this case, the grapes come from throughout the Russian River Valley.  Compared to its Willamette Valley bottling, their Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is broader and riper, with dark fruit flavors. Read more

Qupé, Santa Barbara County (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay Y Block 2018

($22):   Qupé, established in 1982, has always focused on wines made from varieties usually associated with France’s Rhône Valley — Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Marsanne and Roussanne.  So where did this fabulous Chardonnay come from.  The Chardonnay came from the famed Bien Nacido Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley, primarily from the Y Block, which was planted exclusively for Qupé in 2005, according to their website.  Read more

River Road Family Vineyards and Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Stephanie’s Cuvée” 2017

($30):   With raspberry-like nuances, this fruit-forward Pinot Noir has moderate weight and suave tannins.  Lively acidity keeps it fresh.  The 14.3 percent stated alcohol, noticeable by a slightly hot finish, adds a pleasing roundness to the wine.  Thankfully, not being a bombastic wine, it would go nicely with grilled salmon.Read more

River Road Family Vineyards and Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2018

($25):  Here is a polished Cabernet Sauvignon that displays black fruit enrobed in suave tannins.  Despite plenty of dark fruit flavors, it’s not overweight as evidenced by its modest — by today’s standards — 13.9 percent stated alcohol.  Its creamy texture and kiss of vanilla-like notes allows for immediate enjoyment.Read more