Category Archives: Reviews
Louis Jadot, Coteaux Bourguignon, Burgundy, France, 2017
Domaine Jean & Gilles Lafouge, Coteaux Bourguignon, 2017
Maison Fatien Père & Fils, Coteaux Bourguignon, 2017
Domaine Fargues, Coteaux Bourguignon, Burgundy, France, 2017
Jean Louis & Jean Christophe Bersan, Cuvée Marianne, St-Bris, Burgundy, 2018
Bailly-Lapierre, St-Bris, Burgundy, France, 2018
Jean Hugues & Guilhem Goisot, Corps de Garde, St-Bris, Burgundy, 2017
Domaine Séverine & Lionel Jacquet, St-Bris, Burgundy, 2018
Ron Rubin Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2017
($25): Consumers should be pleased with this well-priced Pinot Noir because it has more complexity than you’d expect at the price. It’s ripe and supple, but unlike many Pinot Noir at this price, it has some earthy, savory nuances. It’s not just sweet cherry juice. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Old Vine Zinfandel 2017
($35): Full disclosure, Zinfandel is one of my least favorite wines. Petit Sirah runs a close second because both usually are impossibly overdone wines. So, I shuddered when I read the blend: Zinfandel (76%), Petit Sirah (22%) and Carignane. But that’s why you taste. … Read more
Domaine Saint Gayan, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Trescartes” 2016
($15, Europvin USA): Domaine Saint Gayan, known for their Gigondas, also makes a notable Côtes du Rhône from grapes grown in the neighboring villages of Seguret and Sablet, two of the named villages of the more prestigious Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation, according to their website. … Read more
Jean-Luc Colombo, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Abeilles” 2017
($13, Taub Family Selections): Jean-Luc Colombo is a star producer in the Northern Rhône appellation of Cornas. Many credit him as a locomotive for that appellation, pulling it onto the world’s stage. It turns out that he also makes a stylish, bargain-priced Côtes du Rhône. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2018
($25): Although Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are the French and Italian words for the same grape, the name chosen by New World producers usually defines the style of the wine. Naumes’ rendition, with its subtle hint of pear-like flavors, delivers the fleshy Pinot Gris version. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2019
($20): The inclusion of Sauvignon Gris, a faintly colored mutation of Sauvignon Blanc, and Sauvignon Musqué, which some believe is a biotype of Sauvignon Blanc, helps explain this wine’s appealing fleshy texture. (Sauvignon Musqué and Sauvignon Blanc have identical DNA and therefore are the same grape, according to Jancis Robinson et al’s Wine Grapes.) … Read more
Jordan Vineyard & Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
($58): Jordan made the difficult decision several years ago to abandon their longstanding and original concept of an estate wine, that is, one made entirely from their own grapes. They made the honest assessment that their grapes were not always the best ones that were available. … Read more
Dog Point, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2019
($21, Vintus): New Zealand is known around the world as a top producer of distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. And Dog Point has rapidly become one of the best producers of Sauvignon Blanc in that country. Their 2019 is stunningly good. It’s vibrant without being over the top. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Pian della Casina “Sergioveto” 2016
($53, Palm Bay International): Rocca delle Macìe changed the blend, vineyard site, and appellation for this wine starting with the 2015 vintage. The wine was originally created in 1985 as a Super Tuscan by Italo Zingarelli, the company’s founder, and named for his son, Sergio, the current head of the company. … Read more
Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Chardonnay 2019
($17, HB Wine Merchants): With rare exception, consumers don’t usually think of Italy for distinctive Chardonnay. More wines like this one could change that perception. Racy and refined, it’s paradoxically mouth-filling yet not heavy. It’s cutting and spicy profile is refreshing. … Read more
Domaine de Cabrials, Pays d’Oc IGP (Occitanie, France) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
($12, HB Wine Merchants): Unbelievable value! That’s the best way to describe this Cabernet. It displays a wonderful — and rare at this price — balance of dark fruit and savory olive-like flavors. Wonderfully textured, it’s not flabby or soft. It’s structured, but not aggressive. … Read more
Langlois-Chateau, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2019
($25, Vintus): Langlois-Chateau, though best known for their sparkling wines, also makes noteworthy still wines, such as this Sancerre. The appealing bite of Sauvignon Blanc is apparent, but it speaks of minerals and chalk rather than overt fruitiness. Fresh, bright and clean, it’s a refreshing and graceful expression of that grape.… Read more
Langlois-Chateau, Crémant de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Brut NV
($23, Vintus): Edouard Langlois and Jeanne Chateau founded their eponymous company in 1912 and has been a leading producer of Crémant de Loire ever since. This, their standard NV Brut, is a blend of Chenin Blanc (at least 60%), and roughly equal parts of Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) “GSM” 2017
($40): GSM stands for the classic Mediterranean blend: Grenache (50%); Syrah (33%) and Mourvèdre. Naumes has fashioned an exquisitely balanced mid-weight wine from these grapes, each of which adds something. Grenache makes its presence known with lively spice, while Syrah adds power and Mourvèdre savory nuances. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Barbera 2017
($35): Plantings of Barbera in Oregon, let alone in the Rogue Valley, must be miniscule. The 2018 Oregon Vineyard and Winery Report doesn’t even mention the grape in their detailed statistics. Judging from this wine, more wineries will be planting it. … Read more
Inama, Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) Vigneto di Carbonare 2017
($24, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Very different from Inama’s Soave Classico from Vigneto du Lot, their Vigneto di Carbone is equally entrancing, but in an entirely different way. More chalky and crystallined, it dances on the palate. Its laser-like finish reinforces it clean and cutting profile. … Read more
Inama, Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) Vigneto du Lot 2017
($27, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Inama, one of Soave’s top producers, make a great Soave from a blend of vineyards in that appellation. He also makes two stunning single-vineyard ones — this one, and one from Vigneto di Carbonare. Inama’s Vigneto du Lot has power and finesse balanced by piercing acidity. … Read more
Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2019
($17, HB Wine Merchants): There’s Pinot Grigio, and then there’s Pinot Grigio. One taste of Peter Zemmer’s explains why the category is so popular. Delicate hints of white flowers greet you when you pull the cork. A refined and restrained fruitiness follows. … Read more
Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio Giatl Riserva 2017
($38, HB Wine Merchants): Peter Zemmer’s single-vineyard Giatl is a very different style of Pinot Grigio from his regular (I hate that word to describe that wine, which is anything but regular) bottling. The Giatl has power and a Burgundian-like weight and to it. … Read more
Domaine de Cabrials, Pays d’Oc IGP (Occitanie, France) Pinot Noir 2018
($12, HB Wine Merchants): European regulations for naming wines are Byzantine. The top tier is labeled Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP) formerly known as Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC). (A quirk in regulations allow the French to continue to use the older AOC nomenclature.) … Read more
Domaine de Cabrials, Pays d’Oc IGP (Occitanie, France) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
($12, HB Wine Merchants): Unbelievable value! That’s the best way to describe this Cabernet. It displays a wonderful — and rare at this price — balance of dark fruit and savory olive-like flavors. Wonderfully textured, it’s not flabby or soft. It’s structured, but not aggressive. … Read more
Siduri Wines, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2018
($35): Siduri, named for the Babylonian goddess of wine, specializes in Pinot Noir, especially single vineyard bottlings. According to their website they make only single vineyard wines from a total of 20 vineyards throughout California and Oregon. Fortunately, they have expanded their production and now produce blended wines from three appellations: Willamette Valley in Oregon, plus two from California, specifically, Santa Barbara County, and the Russian River Valley. … Read more
Siduri Wines, Santa Barbara County (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir 2018
($30): The grapes for this multi-vineyard bottling come primarily from the Sta. Rita Valley, whose east-west orientation is rare in California where most of the valleys run north-south. Sta. Rita’s orientation allows cool Pacific Ocean influences to reduce temperatures, especially close to the coast, making it an ideal locale for growing Pinot Noir, a grape that prefers lower temperatures to higher ones. … Read more
Siduri Wines, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2018
($40): Siduri, known for their single-vineyard bottlings of Pinot Noir has expanded their portfolio to include ones from a variety of vineyards. In this case, the grapes come from throughout the Russian River Valley. Compared to its Willamette Valley bottling, their Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is broader and riper, with dark fruit flavors. … Read more
Talenti, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2015
($50): Talenti must have harvested the Sangiovese at precisely the right time in 2015, judging from the balance in this wine. The 2015 growing season in Montalcino was, similar to the remainder of Tuscany, hot and produced rich, ripe wines, sometimes even over-ripe and jam-y ones. … Read more
Qupé, Santa Barbara County (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay Y Block 2018
($22): Qupé, established in 1982, has always focused on wines made from varieties usually associated with France’s Rhône Valley — Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Marsanne and Roussanne. So where did this fabulous Chardonnay come from. The Chardonnay came from the famed Bien Nacido Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley, primarily from the Y Block, which was planted exclusively for Qupé in 2005, according to their website. … Read more
Mettler Family Vineyards, Lodi (California) Albarino 2019
($20): American consumers have embraced Albariño, the most important white grape in Spain’s Galicia region, because of the energetic and spicy wines made from it. And now, with roughly 450 acres of it, almost a one-third of which was planted in the last three years, the grape — and wine — is making inroads into California vineyards. … Read more
Laetitia Vineyard & Winery, Arroyo Grande Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Estate 2018
($27): It’s rare to see a Pinot Noir of this stature for less than $30 a bottle. The grapes for this fruit-forward Pinot Noir come entirely from Laetitia’s vineyards, which means they control all of the farming, and, importantly, the timing of the harvest. … Read more
Mionetto, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Dry NV
($35, Mionetto USA): Cartizze is the top category of Prosecco, and the only “Cru” entitled to its own appellation. It sits atop the Prosecco quality pyramid because it is the best place within the Valdobbiadene zone to grow the Glera grape, the one used for Prosecco. … Read more
Abrigo Giovanni, Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba Superiore DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Garabei” 2017
($17, Elevation Wine): There’s Dolcetto and then there’s Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba, one of the few Dolcetto areas to be awarded DOCG status, Italy’s highest category of wine. Dolcetto from around Alba, especially Diano d’Alba, typically have more elegance than run-of-the-mill Dolcetto. … Read more
Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Les Chanteaux” 2018
($30, Cynthia Hurley French Wines): White wine from Chinon is unusual since 95 percent of the appellation’s output is red. Couly-Dutheil, one of Chinon’s top domaines, consistently produces a fabulous example of white Chinon along with their stellar range of red Chinon wines. … Read more
Los Vascos, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc 2019
($10, Taub Family Selections): It’s not really a 94-point wine, but I have to get your attention. This wine shows the deficiency of using points to rate a wine. It’s spectacular in the context of a $10 bottle Sauvignon Blanc. If there’s a more enjoyable one out there at the price, please let me know. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Grenache 2016
($35): The Rogue Valley Winegrowers Association’s website tells us that the Rogue Valley, Oregon’s southernmost winegrowing area, has 4,000 acres of vines. The most important red wines in the warm area are made from Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, and Malbec. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2016
($40): The history of the Naumes Family Vineyards seems to confirm the mantra that good wine starts in the vineyard. They’ve been making wine only for a handful of years, but have been farming fruit for 100 years, according to their website. … Read more
Sebastiani, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
($40): The world needs more renditions of Cabernet Sauvignon like this one — specifically, well-priced and well proportioned. It delivers ripe, but not over-ripe fruit flavors, and a wisp of vanilla-kissed oak. But savory and “not just fruit” accents peek through, creating balance and saving it from being fruit-heavy. … Read more
Bodegas Pinea del Duero, Ribera del Duero DO (Castilla y León, Spain) “17” 2017
($65, WineSmith Company): Bodegas Pinea, a new entry in Ribera del Duero, is off to an excellent start. Founded just this decade, their first release of their flagship wine, Pinea, was in 2017, which gave rise to the name of this wine, 17, their second label. … Read more
Cantina Fratelli Pardi, Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG (Umbria, Italy) “Sacrantino” 2014
($35, Provicenter USA): The Sagrantino grape has abundant fierce tannins, which explains the character of the wines from Montefalco Sagrantino (formerly called Sagrantino di Montefalco). Wines from this DOCG require exclusive use of that grape and benefit from years, even decades, of bottle age to soften them. … Read more
Viticoltore Vini Franchetti, Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Passorosso” 2017
($39): Andrea Franchetti is either brilliant or crazy. He built a wine estate, Tinoro, from scratch in Tuscany’s Val d’Orcia and makes wine there, not from Sangiovese, but from solely Bordeaux varieties. He has another estate in Tuscany, Sancaba, dedicated to plant, of all things, Pinot Noir. … Read more
River Road Family Vineyards and Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Stephanie’s Cuvée” 2017
($30): With raspberry-like nuances, this fruit-forward Pinot Noir has moderate weight and suave tannins. Lively acidity keeps it fresh. The 14.3 percent stated alcohol, noticeable by a slightly hot finish, adds a pleasing roundness to the wine. Thankfully, not being a bombastic wine, it would go nicely with grilled salmon.… Read more
River Road Family Vineyards and Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2018
($25): Here is a polished Cabernet Sauvignon that displays black fruit enrobed in suave tannins. Despite plenty of dark fruit flavors, it’s not overweight as evidenced by its modest — by today’s standards — 13.9 percent stated alcohol. Its creamy texture and kiss of vanilla-like notes allows for immediate enjoyment.… Read more
Inama, Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) Vigneti di Foscarino Vecchie Vigne 2017
($23, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): One of the reasons I love Soave is that — when made by top producers such as Inama — the wines over-deliver. The region is still trying to recover from its reputation of dilute innocuous wines. … Read more