($42, Young’s Market): A fascinating blend of 60% Malbec and 40% Petit Verdot, this purple, inky wine looks huge, but actually is more like an intense, juicy Dolcetto with fine tannins and great character. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot “Adams Road” 2003
($15, Negociants USA): Rich and supple, with some herbal elements, this wine reflects the interplay of sweet ripe fruit and slightly savory elements. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Howard Park, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Leston Vineyard 2003
($20, Commonwealth Wine & Spirits): Lovely cassis fruit, hints of chocolate and fine tannins combine to make this a juicy, fleshy wine. A great $20 value! 90 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Deep Woods Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
($25, Outback Red Imports): The relatively warm location of this estate probably explains the wine’s abundant cassis character and its more subtle herbal elements. Length and supple, ripe tannins make it an engaging wine even at this young age. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Deep Woods Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2004
($35, Outback Red Imports): Owner Peter Fogarty says that this is his best wine. Made entirely from their estate-grown fruit, the Merlot component imparts an attractive herbal character that complements the overall juicy impression. It has an impressive, silky texture. 91 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Art Series” 1999
($45, Old Bridge Cellars): This succulent wine offers not just fruit flavors but also hints of chocolate. Despite a slightly hot finish, it’s a classy, complex wine. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Hay Shed Hill, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Etched Label” 2003
($55, Artemis Wines International): This is a resounding success for the first vintage of what is sure to be this producer’s flagship wine. The quality and complexity comes from 35-year old vines, low yields (two to three tons per acre), and the talent of winemaker Nigel Kinsman.… Read more
Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
($27, Negociants USA): Some Margaret River wineries had trouble ripening Cabernet in 2002 because it was an unusually cool growing season. Vasse Felix succeeded admirably because they used more grapes from the warmer–northern–part of the region. They fashioned a silky, ripe cassis-infused wine that still retains attractively herbal, but not unripe, elements.… Read more
Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Art Series” 2000
($45, Old Bridge Cellars): I tasted this at a seminar on Australian and New Zealand wines that I led for a group of undergraduate students at Harvard after my return from Western Australia. It was the wine of the night and a perfect accompaniment to roasted lamb.… Read more
Cullen, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) “Diana Madeline” 2004
($70, Young’s Market): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Cullen’s flagship wine is named in honor of Vanya’s mother. Intense but balanced and layered, it has great complexity and finesse. Floral notes and aromatic hints of herbs and spice get this wine off to a great start, and nicely interwoven ripe fruit flavors finish with supple tannins.… Read more
Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Art Series” 2001
($45, Old Bridge Cellars): A harmonious combination of subtle chocolate, herbs, and yes, plenty of fruit, makes you want to drink this now. But resist. Drink the 2000 now and cellar this one for a few years because it will improve as the tannins soften and the flavors continue to unfold.… Read more
Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Scotsdale Vineyard 2003
($20, Commonwealth Wine & Spirits): This wine’s ripe fruit flavors balance the herbal and floral notes, which are more pronounced here than in the Margaret River bottling because the Great Southern region is notably cooler. This is an elegant, layered wine, and another great value!… Read more
Starved Dog Lane, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz/Viognier 2003
($15, Pacific Wine Partners): The Aussies, following what the French often do in Côte Rôtie, have blended a little white wine, Viognier, with Shiraz. The delicate floral elements, undoubtedly from the Viognier, tame the Shiraz without stripping it of spice. The cooler Adelaide Hills climate imparts a refreshing lift.… Read more
Lindemans, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Reserve 2002
($10): Reserve 2002 ($10): A big step above their Bin 50 Southeastern Australian Shiraz, the Reserve bottling, drawn exclusively from sources in South Australia, is a great buy. Its gamey, earthy complexity is an unexpected surprise for a wine at this price.… Read more
Fox Creek, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz/Grenache 2001
($19, Vineyard Brands): This is yet another intense Australian wine that carries its 14.5+ percent alcohol effortlessly. A juicy combination of spice from Grenache and rich plumminess from Shiraz makes this wine a joy to drink. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2006… Read more
Craggy Range Winery, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Le Sol” 2002
($60, Kobrand): Craggy Range Winery, an outstanding producer specializing in wines from single vineyards, has entered the upscale Syrah sweepstakes with their Le Sol offering. Their philosophy is that unique wines arise from unique growing conditions; hence their single vineyard focus.… Read more
Red Bicyclette, Vin de Pays d’Oc (France) Syrah 2004
($10, Red Bicyclette, USA): I was prepared not to like this wine because of its cutesy name and label, but in fact, it is a pleasant, high value, southern French red wine. Plummy and quite supple, it is easy to drink before a meal and then take it to the table with burgers.… Read more
Bodegas Vinedos de Murcia, Jumilla (Spain) Shiraz/Cabernet/Monastrell “Mad Dogs and Englishmen” 2003
($10, Click Imports): At least some Spaniards have learned quickly how to market Old World wines to us geographically-challenged New World wines drinkers. They put the seemingly incomprehensible, but of course, essential, geographic material on the back label. The consumer is captured by the far more memorable name, Mad Dogs and Englishmen, followed by the varietal blend, on the front label.… Read more
Red Bicyclette, Vin de Pays d’Oc (France) Syrah 2004
($10, Red Bicyclette, USA): I was prepared not to like this wine because of its cutesy name and label, but in fact, it is a pleasant, high value, southern French red wine. Plummy and quite supple, it is easy to drink before a meal and then take it to the table with burgers.… Read more
Palmer Vineyards, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Chardonnay 2004
($15): Tired of heavy, out of balance New World Chardonnay? Try this delicious wine, not lean and green as some East Coast whites can be, but lush without being overdone. Its bright acidity keeps it lively during a meal. A great value.… Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz 2002
($16, Hess Collection Imports): Peter Lehmann makes a range of excellent wines. This boisterous Barossa Valley wine delivers smoky, earthy elements in the nose that follow on the palate. Remarkable suppleness makes it easy to drink. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2006… Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (Australia) Clancy’s Red Wine 2003
($16, Hess Collection Imports): An intriguing blend of about 40% Shiraz, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, Clancy’s Red Wine is perfect for those who prefer strong structure in their red wines. The blend works because the firmness of Cabernet supports the ripe fruit of the Shiraz and Merlot without dominating either.… Read more
Jacob’s Creek, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Reserve 2002
($13, Pernod Ricard): Upfront ripe berry fruit, along with a touch of spice and mint, make this an engaging, easy to like Shiraz. It is full-bodied but remarkably harmonious for a wine touching 15 percent alcohol 88 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2006… Read more
Montes, Apalta Valley (Colchagua, Chile) Syrah “Folly” 2003
($70, TGIC Importers): Made entirely from Syrah grown on the upper slopes of Montes’Apalta Valley Vineyard, this is an unabashedly big and extracted wine with flavors that emerge over time in the glass. Oak notes are apparent, but not overwhelming, and the ripe supple tannins provide structure that keeps you coming back for more.… Read more
Dow’s, Douro Valley (Portugal) Late Bottled Vintage Port 2000
($20, Premium Port Wines): Another winner from this outstanding vintage, Dow’s rendition is mellow, sweet and refined, coupled with an engaging earthiness. A charming choice to sip slowly after dinner. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2006… Read more
Fonseca, Douro Valley (Portugal) Late Bottled Vintage Port 2000
($22, Kobrand): Late Bottled Vintage Port 2000 ($22, Kobrand): Late Bottled Vintage Port or LBV, is a reasonable alternative to vintage Port. Bottled after five or six years of barrel aginginstead of two for vintage Portit needs no further aging upon release nor decanting since its sediment remains behind in the barrel.… Read more
Delamotte, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut 1997
($74, Wilson Daniels, Ltd.): I suppose it is no surprise that Delamotte, a house located in Mesnil (perhaps the single best village in the Cotes des Blanc, the area of Champagne where Chardonnay reigns supreme) should make a stellar Blanc de Blancs.… Read more
Bollinger, Champagne (France) Brut “Grande Année” 1997
($110, Paterno): Bollinger’s vintage Champagne, Grande Année, is rapidly reaching tête du cuvée prices, but at least the quality is there. No longer the bargain of past years (but what is?) Bollinger continues to make stunning vintage Champagne. More forward than their superb 1996, the 1997 Grand Année has that signature brioche toastiness, penetrating flavors without being aggressive, and luxurious length.… Read more
Georges DuBoeuf, Beaujolais Nouveau (Burgundy, France) 2005
($11, WJ Deutsch): Full, fresh and fruity, just as Beaujolais Nouveau should be. The concentration and extract make this year’s version very appealing and, hopefully, bodes well for 2005 Burgundy in general. 86 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2006… Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2002
($20, Ex Cellars): Anyone who believes that Chenin Blanc makes only insipid dry wine has never tasted Baumard’s Savennières. The 2002 has a magical combination of honey-like ripeness (without being sweet) intertwined with an alluring minerality. A versatile wine with food, it is ideal with flavorful Asian fare.… Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume (Loire Valley, France) 2002
($60, Ex Cellars): A glorious wine, this is rich with ripe pear and honey flavors, but it also shows a captivating delicacy. The sweetness is balanced perfectly by focused acidity, providing a striking combination of richness and elegance. This is a must for your cellar.… Read more
Rancho Zabaco, California (United States) Zinfandel “Dancing Bull” 2003
($12): Even allowing for the fact that the Gallo empire can draw upon vast vineyard resources strewn across California, it still amazes me that they can pull together a Zin this fine for twelve bucks. This wine is actually more interesting and useful than many counterparts now selling for upwards of $20 in the current Zin-crazed era, and though its balanced, integrated profile won’t jerk you to attention like many other bottlings, it will win your admiration with its impressive combination of bold flavor and seamless integration.… Read more
Terrunyo, Cachapoal Valley (Chile) Carménère Peumo Vineyard Block 27 2002
($30, Banfi Vintners): This is an impressive Carménère released in Concha y Toro’s Terrunyo line. New World ripeness and suppleness are apparent, but the inherently earthy character of Carménère still shows, which makes for a succulent, layered wine. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2005… Read more
Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé 1999
($80, Moët-Hennessy USA): The 1999 rendition of Cliquot’s rosé is more forward than usual, but the house has nonetheless continued its streak of excellent Rosés with this exotically flavored offering. The strawberry and other red fruit flavors from Pinot Noir leap from the glass but are balanced by firm acidity and even a hint of tannin.… Read more
Archery Summit, Oregon (United States) Pinot Noir Arcus Estate 2002
($75): Archery Summit, Oregon (United States) Pinot Noir Arcus Estate 2002 ($75): Arcus Estate, a 40 acre vsite, is Archery Summit’s largest vineyard. The Willamette appellation was introduced in 2003, which explains why it’s labeled simply, “Oregon.” (The 2004 vintage will carry the Dundee Hills appellation.)… Read more
Susana Balbo, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec “BenMarco” 2003
($20, Vine Connections): A ripe wine (the grapes came from a warm part of Mendoza), this retains juicy acidity which prevents it from being heavy. The smoky, earthy flavors burst from the glass and put a smile on your face. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 25, 2005… Read more
Duval-Leroy, Champagne (France) Brut 1996
($50, Partner’s Wine Marketing): Most vintage Champagnes from this monumental year have disappeared from retailers’ shelves, but happily Duval-Leroy just released theirs. Disgorged in October 2004 after 7 years on the lees, it has gorgeous toasty/yeasty qualities, the creamy elegance of Chardonnay and a seemingly endless finish.… Read more
Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Brut “Grand Siècle La Cuvée” NV
($85, Laurent-Perrier USA): Do not let the lack of a vintage date deter you from enjoying this fabulous tête de cuvée Champagne. Laurent-Perrier’s tradition is to blend their best wines exclusively from grand cru villages from the last three vintages to fashion this luxurious bottling.… Read more
Susana Balbo, Mendoza (Argentina) “Briosco” 2001
($45, Vine Connections): This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot is Susana Balbo’s flagship wine. Not a “fruit bomb,” this elegant, refined wine delivers alluring spice intermingled with smoky elements. Its long and classy finish shows that Argentina can produce very fine wine.… Read more
Katnook Estate, Coonawarra (Australia) Shiraz 2001
($22, Freixenet): Not your over-the-top Barossa Valley Shiraz, Katnook’s comes from cooler Coonawarra and shows plum and spice, intertwined with white pepper. It’s an elegantly styled Shiraz with great charm. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 11, 2005… Read more
Sauvion et Fils, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) Château du Cléray 2003
($10, W.J. Deutsch & Sons): I’m not a fan of most 2003 white wines from Europe because the scorching summer robbed them of acidity. But it’s hard to kill the acid in the Melon de Bourgogne, the grape from which Muscadet is made.… Read more
Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Pfingstberg 2001
($35, Pasternak): Albrecht’s regular Riesling is always quite good and well priced at about $15. This one, from the Grand Cru vineyard, Pfingstberg, is glorious. With lots of intensity and minerality, it delivers everything you’d expect from a grand cru vineyard.… Read more
Kumala, Western Cape (South Africa) Chardonnay 2004
($9, Vincor USA): With Kumala, the South Africans aim to compete with the Australian Yellow Tail and Little Penguin labels. And judging by this Chardonnay, the Aussies should watch out. This simple, but very good wine has subtle notes of pears, a whiff of creaminess, and delivers more than I expected for the price.… Read more
Budini, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2003
($11, Vine Connections): Here’s what I refer to as a “pizza wine,” an inexpensive, flavor-packed bottle that can hold up to pepperoni. It is a fresh, ripe Malbec that, thankfully, is neither overoaked nor over extracted. Budini is the name of an Argentine cat that can appear larger than it is by puffing its fur when threatened.… Read more
La Posta del Viñatero, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec Angel Paulucci Vineyard 2004
($17, Vine Connections): Argentine wine producers rarely make a wine from a single vineyard because they fear any particular locale might be wiped out by an isolated hailstorm. This Malbec was worth the risk. Rich, without being heavy, it has unexpected complexity and polish.… Read more
Luca, Altos de Mendoza (Argentina) Syrah 2003
($30, Vine Connections): Laura Catena, daughter of Nicolas, who runs one of Argentina’s best wineries, aims to make small quantities of very high quality wines from particular sites. Although she started in 1997, her first commercial wine was from 1999 because rain effectively washed out the 1998 vintage for her.… Read more
Casa da Vila Verde, Vinho Verde (Portugal) 2003
($10, Signature): Casa de Vila Verde has overcome the problem that plagues all too many bottlings of Vinho Verde-cutting acidity without the ripe fruit flavors to balance it. The scorching heat of 2003 ripened grapes nicely in this northwestern part of Portugal, which explains the better fruit flavors-green apples-to complement that refreshing zing.… Read more
Nicolas Potel, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Maison Dieu 2002
($19, Frederick Wildman): Potel owns just one small, four-acre, vineyard called Maison Dieu between the towns of Beaune and Pommard, on the “wrong side of the tracks.” The wine doesn’t even qualify for a town name, but must be sold under Burgundy’s least prestigious appellation, Bourgogne.… Read more
Maison Drouhin, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2002
($200, Dreyfus Ashby): A domaine bottling, this Bonnes Mares is staggeringly good, plush and balanced, with a seemingly endless finish. 96 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Louis Jadot, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2002
($125, Kobrand): Always my favorite, Jadot’s Bonnes Mares, a domaine wine, is suave, long, layered, and luxurious. The tannins and structure are there, but unobtrusive, and bode well for development. 97 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more