($27, Vineyard Brands): Elgin is one of the cooler areas in South Africa and consequently this Chardonnay is less ripe, more tightly wound and restrained compared to Ellis’s Stellenbosch bottling. There are more lemon rather than melon notes here. His two Chardonnays tasted side-by-side are an instructive comparison and show that the French don’t have a monopoly on terroir.… Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Jaboulet, Beaumes-de-Venise (Rhône Valley, France) “Le Paradou” 2005
($22, Wildman): Jaboulet, one of the premier producers in the Rhône, makes noteworthy wines from a multiple of areas within the region. Beaumes-de-Venise, a small village traditionally known more for its sweet wines than for its robust reds, had been lumped with other villages that comprised Côtes du Rhône for its red wines. … Read more
Oak Knoll, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2006
($14): This excellent example of what Oregon has to offer in Pinot Gris 
delivers a subtle nutty creaminess, buttressed by bright acid. A stone fruit-like texture lends added weight without being oily. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 19, 2008… Read more
The Yard, Mount Barker (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling Whispering Hill Vineyard 2007
($25, Vintage New World): Larry Cherubino, founder and winemaker at The Yard, has great experience finding top-notch vineyards in Western Australia since he was winemaker at Houghton’s, the region’s largest producer. This dazzling Riesling reinforces what a great area Mt. Barker is for the varietal. … Read more
Nine Stones, Sydney (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay 2006
($15, Vineyard Brands): Although Hunter Valley is considered the closest wine region to Sydney, wine is produced closer to the capital in the Sydney Wine Region, where the industry got its start in 1788. This stylish Chardonnay dispels the prejudice that Australian Chardonnays are heavy and oak-laden with its minerality, lemony acidity and creaminess.… Read more
The Lane Vineyard, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Sauvignon “Estate Grown” 2006
($30, Vintage New World): Bright and pungent, but not overly piercing, this Sauvignon Blanc has an attractive texture and weight in the mid-palate. Chalky minerality complemented by lemony nuances spread across the mouth. It comes across as less edgy than the typical version from neighboring New Zealand.… Read more
Col Solare, Columbia Valley (Washington) 2004
($65): 
The first vintage of Col Solare, a joint venture between Tuscany’s Piero Antinori and Washington State’s Château Ste. Michelle Winery, was 1995. That wine, tasted recently, had developed beautifully revealing floral notes and an engaging minerality. The 2004, a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and three percent Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, has potential to follow in the 95’s footsteps. … Read more
Domaine Olivier Hillaire, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Vielles Vignes” 2006
($15, Wines of France/Alain Junguenet Selection): A blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, this Côtes du Rhône has exceptional polish and grace to complement its bright red fruit flavors. Its length and density belies its lowly appellation. Don’t miss it.… Read more
Villa Maria, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon “Private Bin” 2006
($15, Vineyard Brands): The next time someone asks the question, ‘Can you recommend a good $15 wine?’ this one goes to the top of the list. A blend of mostly (86%) Merlot, it has a gorgeous floral nose, a healthy dose of herbal, non-fruit flavors to add complexity and lovely balance.… Read more
Villa Maria, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Syrah “Cellar Selection” 2005
($25, Vineyard Brands): While Marlborough region is known for Sauvignon Blanc and Central 
Otago and Martinborough areas for Pinot Noir, George Fistonich, managing director of Villa Maria, says that Hawkes Bay, located on the North Island, is ‘good for everything’ because of its multitude of microclimates. … Read more
Adelsheim Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2006
($16): David and Ginny Adelsheim’s eponymous vineyard was one of the founding members of the Oregon wine industry. Best known for their stylish Pinot Noir–especially Elizabeth’s Reserve–Adelsheim’s Pinot Gris releases also shine. The 2006 has nuances of fresh pears and an alluring mouth filling texture complemented by a vibrant freshness.… Read more
Adelsheim Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Elizabeth’s Reserve” 2006
($48): Adelsheim makes this Reserve wine by selecting the best barrels of Pinot Noir in his cellar, which, not coincidently, usually come from grapes grown in their estate vineyards in the Chehalem Mountains. It combines ripe fresh red fruit flavors, spice, and a captivating woodsy character without being heavy or overbearing. … Read more
DiStefano, Columbia Valley (Washington) Meritage 2004
($28): Smooth and polished, with dark berry fruit flavors enhanced by echoes of coffee, chocolate, and sweet vanilla-laced oak, this is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 20% Cabernet Franc. Its firm tannins provide a well-defined structure but do not seem excessively astringent, suggesting that the wine should age gracefully.… Read more
Juniper Crossing, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($16, Tom Eddy Wines): SSB or SBS-depending on the primary grape-is a popular blend in Western Australia that deserves more recognition on our shores. The Semillon fills out the Sauvignon Blanc without dominating it. The edginess of Sauvignon Blanc persists, especially in the finish, but there is a lovely softness and creaminess that comes through.… Read more
The Lane Vineyard, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Reunion” 2003
($45, Vintage New World): The Adelaide Hills region of South Australia is cooler than most winegrowing areas of Australia and has the potential to produce grapes whose flavors and tannins develop nicely at lower sugar levels. Hence, the wines, such as this Shiraz, can be concentrated but retain elegance because they are not alcoholic or over the top. … Read more
Château de la Ragotière, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine (Loire Valley, France) Sur Lie 2006
($10, Vineyard Brands): Muscadet is known for its racy acidity-there’s no shortage here-but what sets this wine apart is its minerality and texture that persists into the finish. It has more body than the typical Muscadet. Not a friendly ‘sipping’ wine, it’s perfect with steamed shellfish dipped in butter.… Read more
The Lane Vineyard, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Viognier 2006
($30, Vintage New World): Viognier is a tough grape to vinify. Often the wine can be heavy and blowsy or alcoholic because the grapes need to be very ripe to transmit the requisite aroma and flavor to the wine. John Edwards, owner of The Lane Vineyard, has done a fabulous job with his 2006. … Read more
Columbia Winery, Yakima Valley (Washington) Chardonnay Wyckoff Vineyard 2004
($20): Despite being barrel fermented and undergoing malolactic 
fermentation, this Chardonnay is not in-your-face, but rather has a beautiful balance of fruit and oak. Bright vibrant acidity keeps it lively. A relatively low–at least these days–13.5% alcohol helps explain its character and appeal.… Read more
Perrin et Fils, Rasteau (Rhône Valley, France) “l’Andeol” 2006
($16): Rasteau is one of the villages under Côtes du Rhone Villages appellation that is allowed to put its name on the label because it has the potential to make better and more distinctive wines than the average of villages within the legally delimited region.… Read more
Perrin et Fils, Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2005
($12, Vineyard Brands): 
In addition to owning the famed Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Perrin family has a négociant business buying grapes and unfinished wines from growers–often neighbors–in the southern Rhone Valley and selling the finished wine under the Perrin & Fils label. … Read more
Truchard, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2005
($35): Although the emphasis in this wine is on sweet, lush, California fruit flavors, earthy and smoky elements add complexity. Its elegance is marred only slightly by heat of alcohol apparent in the finish. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 5, 2008… Read more
Perrin et Fils, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Sinards” 2005
($33, Vineyard Brands): Powerful, yes, but it’s this wine’s refinement that shows why Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the southern Rhone’s most well-known appellation. A beautiful minerality and floral components harmonize effortlessly with spicy nuances. Though made from the usual blend of Mediterranean grapes, this wine has a gracefulness not usually associated with the southern Rhône that makes it enjoyable to drink now.… Read more
Clos du Bois, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Merlot Reserve 2004
($22): Tasted side-by-side with their regular–North Coast–Merlot, the 
superiority of the Reserve bottling is readily evident and, in my mind, worth the extra four dollars. As expected, it has more sweet fruit flavors, more apparent oak aging and more supporting tannins. … Read more
Southern Right Cellars, Walker Bay (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2007
($13): 
Southern Right makes marvelously consistent Sauvignon Blanc. Their 2007 is no exception. It combines layers of chalky minerality found in Sancerre with bracing New Zealand type acidity characteristic of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Which makes sense, since South Africa is located roughly halfway between those two regions. … Read more
Glen Carlou, Paarl (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($16, Hess Imports): Plump black cherry flavors buttressed by uplifting acidity and fine tannins make this wine an excellent buy. Not an ‘aperitif’ wine, it goes best with hearty beef dishes. 87 Michael Apstein Feb 5, 2008… Read more
Cycles Gladiator, Central Coast (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($11): I’ve never been enamored of the label of this brand, owned by Hahn Estates, the high quality Monterey-based winery. But the wine in the bottle shows very well in blind tastings and consistently offers excellent value. This 2005 Pinot Noir continues in that vein, delivering an alluring earthy/leafy component atop bright fresh red fruit flavors.… Read more
Bouchaine, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2005
($30): Bouchaine Vineyards specializes in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, 
grapes that thrive in cooler climates, because of their location in the Carneros region. Carneros spans the southern parts of both Napa and Sonoma and is cooled by influences from the San Pablo Bay. … Read more
Veramonte, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir Reserva 2006
($15, Huneeus Vintners): 
This straightforward Pinot Noir delivers bright primary fruit–cherry-like–flavors without earthy, leafy nuances frequently found in the varietal. A nice balance of pure fruit flavors, lively acidity and soft tannins makes it perfect for current consumption. 86 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008… Read more
Joseph Burrier, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Les Paquelets” 2005
($20, Ex-Cellars): Burrier, proprietor of the high-quality Château de Beauregard in Pouilly-Fuissé, also acts as a small négociant for a few wines from Beaujolais. This terrific wine from Julienas, one of the best crus of Beaujolais, conveys fresh fruity, but not grapey, flavors along with an alluring wildness often characteristic of wines from this village. … Read more
MacRostie, Carneros (California) Syrah Wildcat Mountain Vineyard 2004
($34): The Syrah grape can deliver peppery or plummy flavors depending on where it’s planted. MacRostie manages to get both, perhaps because the grapes came from two different blocks within its Wildcat Mountain Vineyard. The result is a lovely plummy, slightly peppery Syrah with nuances of smoke and bacon fat. … Read more
Capel Vale, Mount Barker (Western Australia) Shiraz 2005
($22, Tom Eddy Wines): Despite its 14.5% alcohol, which it carries beautifully, Capel Vale’s Shiraz bares little resemblance to the powerfully concentrated ones from the Barossa Valley. There is no lack of fruit flavor or weight here, but what impresses is the exotic spices, bacon fat, complexity and great length. … Read more
Juniper Crossing, Margaret River (Western Australia) Shiraz 2005
($35, Tom Eddy Wines): This nicely balanced wine has plenty of vibrant acidity to complement the ripe black cherry fruit. More concentrated and deeper than many Shiraz from Western Australia, it still captures the finesse and complexity characteristic of wines from that region.… Read more
Larry Cherubino, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz Powder Bark Vineyard “The Yard” 2005
($40, Tom Eddy Wines): Cherubino was the winemaker at Houghton, a leading producer in Western Australia, and a senior winemaker at New Zealand’s prestigious Craggy Range, before setting out on his own. Judging from this, his first Shiraz, he will succeed at this endeavor as well. … Read more
The Lane, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Shiraz Viognier “Off the Leash, Max” 2006
($25, Tom Eddy Wines): Australia is well-known for its off-the-wall naming of wines, but this one wins the prize. It’s hard to know the name of the wine from reading the label. Is it Max, or Off the Leash? Thankfully, the quality and refinement of this Shiraz Viognier blend is clear. … Read more
McWilliams of Coonawarra, Coonawarra (South Australia) Shiraz “Old Vine, Stentiford’s Reserve” 2002
($55, McWilliams of Australia): 
The vines for this wine, some of which are still producing fruit, were first planted in the Laira Vineyard in 1896 by Captain Stentiford, an English sea captain. McWilliams has avoided the temptation to make an over-the-top Shiraz from low-yielding vines that produce concentrated fruit. … Read more
MacRostie, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($30): MacRostie used a combination of its own Wildcat Mountain Estate and purchased fruit for this stylish wine. An alluring earthiness marries nicely with bright raspberry fruit flavors and is balanced by good acidity and mild tannins. It carries the 14.2% alcohol nicely.… Read more
Château Thieuley, Bordeaux (France) 2005
($12, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): A gorgeous blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, it shows the combination of grace and ripeness that is the hallmark of the 2005 vintage. Unusually complex for a wine of this price, it has nuances of earth and other non-fruit flavors to complement the fruit flavors.… Read more
Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) Brut “La Grande Dame” 1998
($165, Moet Hennessy USA): More forward than the fabulous 1996 Grande Dame, this is one of the rare times I would recommend drinking Grande Dame upon release, instead of cellaring it for a few years. Its opulence and softer-than-usual profile makes it ideal for enjoying now. … Read more
Terrazas de los Andes, Mendoza (Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2004
($20, Moet Hennessy USA): Argentina, like Chile a decade or two ago, has captured American consumers’ attention because it makes solid, less-than-$10-a-bottle wines. But as in Chile, Argentine producers can deliver more than you’d expect at a slightly higher price level. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos St. Jacques 2005
($129, Kobrand): This is a Grand Cru wine in all respects except the label. The story goes that when the locals were classifying the vineyards in the 1930s as either Grand or Premier Cru, the Clos St. Jacques was set to be included as a Grand Cru. … Read more
Vincent Girardin, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Renardes 2005
($88, Vineyard Brands): Girardin’s style favors the forward fruity side of Burgundy rather than the earthy leafy side. Impressive, almost flamboyant aromas, precede the packed, ripe flavors–from fruit, not oak–that are the predominant features of this silky wine. Nicely balanced, it shows the ripeness of the vintage without going overboard.… Read more
Maison Faiveley, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Corton Faiveley 2005
($216, Wilson Daniels): Faiveley owns about 7.5 acres of the Grand Cru vineyard, Le Corton, near the summit of the Corton hill just below the protective shield of trees. It’s almost always their best wine and at tastings is invariably served after the more powerful ones from the Côte de Nuits. … Read more
Maison Faiveley, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de l’Ecu 2005
($85, Wilson Daniels): This outstanding wine from Beaune has exceptional length and finesse. Fine tannins harmonize with bright, ripe, penetrating fruit and earth flavors. The layers of flavor convey depth, but there’s no heaviness here. 94 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2007… Read more
Kendall-Jackson, California (United States) Merlot Vintners Reserve 2004
($18): KJ — as it is affectionately called in the trade — obtains grapes from all over California to fashion this classy Merlot. Not overwrought, the hint of leafy quality characteristic of that grape complements the bright red- and black-fruit elements. … Read more
Hogue Cellars, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
($11): An extraordinary value, Hogue Cellars’ 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon has grace and finesse rarely seen at this price. Fine, polished tannins support, but don’t overwhelm, the bright black cherry fruit flavors and nuances of herbs and smoke. A simple wine at first blush, the flavors expand and the complexity becomes apparent over time as the wine sits in the glass.… Read more
Jaboulet, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Jalets” 2004
($23, Wildman): Jaboulet, one the Rhône’s most reliable and top producers, makes two wines, this one and one labeled Thalabert, from Crozes-Hermitage, the flatter land surrounding the more prestigious Hermitage appellation. Les Jalets has a smoothness and elegance surrounding its characteristic peppery spicy core. … Read more
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (California) Merlot 2004
($18): With so many disappointing Merlots on the market, it’s especially gratifying to find one like Clos LaChance’s. A lovely mixture of herbs and black fruit is immediately apparent in the nose and follows on the palate. A hint of creamy oakiness is well integrated and adds to the allure. … Read more
Buena Vista, Carneros (California) Merlot 2004
($21): This wine explains why Merlot is so popular. Attractively gamey and earthy flavors–not just fruit–come across in the nose and carry onto the palate and are balanced by supple tannins. Not a ‘fruit bomb,’ its layers of flavor persist throughout the finish.… Read more
Allan Scott, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2007
($17, Baystate Wine Company): The cutting–almost electrifying–edge emblematic of Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough region of New Zealand blasts from the glass. But the real treat is flavor in the mid-palate, often a void in many New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Its laser-like character is carried nicely into the finish.… Read more
Kendall Jackson, California (United States) Meritage “Vintners Reserve” 2004
($13): Kendall Jackson has a seemingly never-ending ability to blend wines from throughout California to achieve excellent value offerings. Comprised of almost equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot–with a touch of Cabernet Franc thrown in–this bottling has sweet fruit balanced by mild tannins and just enough complexity to keep it interesting. … Read more