When I told friends that I was going to Edmonton to taste and judge Canadian wines, the predictable response was, “Oh, icewine.” Having tasted Canadian wines during trips to Ontario and at a previous edition of the Northern Lands Festival Canadian Wine Competition in Edmonton, I knew that Canada made more than just icewine. … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Articles
Lugana: The Perfect Summertime White
With their crispness and cutting acidity, the refreshing wines of Lugana, a small Denominazione Origine Controllata (DOC) on the southern edge of Lake Garda in northern Italy’s Lake District, are perfect for drinking in the summer–or year round for that matter. … Read more
2015 Burgundies: Superb for Both Colors…Don’t Miss Them
After having tasted literally hundreds of barrel samples from négociants and small growers while on my annual pilgrimage to Burgundy in November, followed by a series of important importers’ tastings New York City earlier this year, (again, mostly barrel samples), it’s clear to me that the 2015 Burgundies are stunning.… Read more
The Renaissance at Jessiaume: A Multi-National Collaboration
In parochial Burgundy, where even French citizens from outside the region are viewed with skepticism, an American–and a woman no less–is leading the Anglo-American-French team that is intent on resurrecting Domaine Jessiaume. With the quintessential Burgundian tiles adorning their building, Domaine Jessiaume, which dates from the mid-19th century, is one of Santenay’s iconic properties. … Read more
Bordeaux’s 2014s: An Excellent, Well-Priced Vintage
The press regarding the 2014 vintage in Bordeaux, written in the spring of 2015 after the “en premieur” tastings (a week long series of tastings of “representative” barrel samples in Bordeaux) was lukewarm. The vintage was damned with faint praise (e.g.,… Read more
Merry Edwards Makes Marvelous Pinot Noir
The title of this blog post should come as no surprise to anyone who enjoys Pinot Noir. Although Edwards was the founding winemaker at Matanzas Creek and put their Sauvignon Blanc on the map, her specialty now is Pinot Noir. She added an excellent Sauvignon Blanc to her offerings several years ago, and is now off to a flyting start with Chardonnay as well, but superb Pinots remain the calling cards for her eponymous winery.… Read more
A Champagne Article After the Holidays? What is He Thinking?
To some it will seem odd to read a column about Champagne after New Year’s and the holiday season. (My editor will say it’s because I’ve missed yet another deadline.) After all, the vast bulk of Champagne and sparkling wines are purchased and consumed between Thanksgiving and New Year’s. … Read more
Is It Terroir or National Origin? Burgundy in Oregon
What’s more important in determining wine quality—terroir, or the nationality of the winemaker? Almost everyone agrees on the importance of terroir, the idea (best exemplified in Burgundy) that where the grapes grow is critical in determining the character of a wine. … Read more
A Game-Changing Development in Beaujolais
Everyone knows THE grape in Beaujolais is Gamay. Ok, a little Chardonnay, which finds its way into Beaujolais Blanc or even Bourgogne Blanc, is planted in the region as well. But now, a game-changer could transform and revitalize the region–a major Burgundian producer has started planting and making wine from Pinot Noir in Beaujolais. … Read more
Umbria: Italy’s Forgotten Region (Until Now)
Ask consumers to name their favorite Italian wine regions and you’re sure to hear Tuscany and Piedmont. Italian white wine enthusiasts no doubt would add Friuli and Trentino to the list. And Campania would certainly be on most people’s short list. … Read more
Sicily: Diverse Land, Diverse Wines
The wine culture of Sicily–a little bit of everything–mirrors that island’s unique character. Over the centuries, Sicily has been invaded and colonized by the Greeks, the Arabs, the Spanish, and the French, to name just a few. These diverse cultures have all have left their unique marks on the island–Catholic churches built by Arab workers look like mosques from the outside. … Read more
Wine Fraud: More Common Than You’d Think
The mother of all wine frauds belongs to Rudi Kurniawan, who was convicted in federal court in 2013 and sentenced to 10 years in prison for essentially selling millions of dollars of counterfeit wine. In a separate, but related matter, Kurniawan agreed to pay billionaire wine collector Bill Koch $3 million in damages to settle a lawsuit in which Koch claimed Kurniawan sold him fake wine. … Read more
Robert Mondavi: The Father of California Wine
No one is more responsible for the success of the California wine industry than Robert Mondavi. This year marks the 50th anniversary of the winery that bears his name and is an appropriate time to look back on his extraordinary accomplishments.… Read more
Beauty in Beaujolais: the 2015 Vintage
When I was in Côte d’Or and Beaujolais last November, all the producers with whom I spoke were absolutely raving about the 2015 vintage. The exuberance in Beaujolais–perhaps because the wines were closer to being finished than in the Côte d’Or–was even more palpable and universal. … Read more
Siepi, a True Super Tuscan
Today, the term Super Tuscan has become almost meaningless because its widespread use encompasses anything from expensive wine made entirely from Sangiovese to low-end blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with Sangiovese.
The original Super Tuscan moniker referred to innovative wines, blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, or those varieties with Tuscany’s traditional Sangiovese. … Read more
Surprising Portugal
Although my predictions lack the consistency of Nate Silver’s, I will stick my neck out and say that Portuguese wines will be the next “hot” item in the US wine market even though pronunciation issues may be an impediment. After spending a week in Portugal judging at the 2016 Concurso Vinhos de Portugal (Wines of Portugal Challenge), tasting a vast array of Portuguese wines (including Port, of course, but also a bevy of hearty reds and refreshing whites) and discussing them with Portuguese winemakers and wine judges from around the world, I came away thinking that Portuguese wines are poised to take-off, much as Italian wines did 30-plus years ago.… Read more
Chianti Rùfina: Wines Worth Knowing
It’s well worth unraveling the confusion that often prevents consumers from embracing Chianti Rùfina, for the wines from this area are a joy to drink. Some people mistake this subregion of the greater Chianti area for Ruffino, a prominent producer of Chianti and Chianti Classico (Ruffino makes no Chianti Rùfina, though). … Read more
Malbec That Makes You Think
Subtlety and Malbec are two words rarely used in the same sentence. Malbec, at least from Argentina, usually produces a big, ripe, jammy monotonic red wine with little structure or finesse. But then, along came Count Patrick d’Aulan and his team at Alta Vista in Argentina and, later, at Altamana in Chile. … Read more
2013 Bordeaux: Like Wagner’s Music, It’s Not as Bad as It Sounds
In November 2013, Alan Sichel, chairman of Bordeaux’s guild of wine merchants, told Bloomberg Business, “No one will be excited by the 2013 vintage [in Bordeaux].” That comment turned out to be high praise compared to how others in the trade described the vintage–“a catastrophe”–at the time.… Read more
Beaujolais Rising
A transformation is occurring in Beaujolais, and within a few years the world will see the wines from that region in a whole new light. For most consumers today, Beaujolais is synonymous with Beaujolais Nouveau, which all too often is a grapey, gooey wine.… Read more
Seeing White at Château Lagrange
Just when you think it can’t get any better, it does. At least that’s the case for Château Lagrange, the Cru Classé property in St. Julien, which is making yet another name for itself with–of all things–a dry white wine, Les Arums de Lagrange.… Read more
How Women Transformed Champagne
Dom Perignon, step aside. Although that monk is often credited with “inventing” Champagne, in reality, the women of the region made it what it is today.… Read more
All Smiles in Burgundy
There were smiles all around Burgundy–at least before the horrific events in Paris on Friday, November 13. And with good reason: The 2014 whites are stunning. And overall, yields in 2014 were closer to normal–70 to 80 percent–after four short harvests, though, as Frédéric Barnier, winemaker at Maison Louis Jadot, noted, “We are still looking for a full [normal] crop.” … Read more
New Zealand Wines: An Update
Although still focused primarily on Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand is showing a lot of vinous diversity these days, both with that variety and with other grapes. In the cellars, winemakers are branching out by using oak barrels for fermentation and aging of Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Rating Wines: Is a 94-Point Wine Better Than an 88-Point Wine?
I hate the 100-point scale for rating wines. Of course, I use it, like the vast majority of wine writers, because it has become the standard scale and because many consumers expect and embrace it. My dislike is really not with 100-point scale itself, but rather the way many consumers use it, which goes something like this: Plug in the name of the latest 90+ point wine on wine-searcher.com… Read more
Sommeliers: Love Them or Hate Them?
Somms–and oh, how I hate that word–are the newest darlings of the wine world. Sommeliers have been anointed the opinion leaders, directing trends in wine consumption, replacing, in many instances, the voices of established wine critics such as Robert Parker, Jr.… Read more
A Seasonal Take on Food and Wine Pairing
Bob Harkey, a friend who has an excellent palate and uses it stocking his retail shop (Harkey’s Fine Wines, in suburban Boston), gives the spot-on advice around Thanksgiving, “Match the wine to the company–not the food.” I now expand that advice after a meal during the recent East Coast heat wave to, “Match the wine to the setting, not the food.”… Read more
The Trouble with Vouvray
Vouvray is home to a fabulous array of under-valued white wines. A major impediment to more widespread popularity is the confusion that surrounds their level of sweetness. (This confusion is surely a major reason the wines remain undervalued, so perhaps–for those of us who love the wines–I should stop here.) … Read more
Chinon: Burgundy in the Loire Valley
Chinon as Burgundy? At first glance, it is an unlikely comparison. Chinon growers use Cabernet Franc almost exclusively for their reds, while Burgundians use Pinot Noir. And Cabernet Franc is no winemaker’s Holy Grail, unlike Pinot Noir. Few consumers are passionate about Cabernet Franc, nor do they search for it the way they clamor for Pinot Noir.… Read more
Bargains Abound in Burgundy, Part II
With demand for Burgundy pushing prices relentlessly upward, savvy consumers should look to lesser-known appellation to find affordable wines. … Read more
Two Essential Pieces of Equipment for Anyone Who Drinks Wine
The corkscrew is an obvious choice as one, but what’s the other? I’ll give you a hint — it costs between $5 and 10, so that eliminates the Coravin, the clever $300 gadget with a long needle that lets you sample a bottle without having to open it.… Read more
Bargains Abound in Burgundy–If You Know Where to Look
With prices for top Burgundy wines in triple and sometimes quadruple digits, you could be forgiven for concluding that Burgundy is expensive. Well, most of it is. And, as I will explain below, there’s no reason to believe that prices will come down. … Read more
The 2010 Brunello: Don’t Miss Them
You’ve heard it before, usually from Bordeaux, “It’s the vintage of the century!” Although perhaps not “the vintage of the century” (it is a little early to round out this century), the 2010 vintage will certainly rank among the greatest ever for Brunello di Montalcino. … Read more
Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Consumers can be excused if they have no familiarity with Vernaccia di San Gimignano. A well-respected California-based wine writer (who shall remain nameless) recently admitted to me that (s)he didn’t even know that Vernaccia was a grape, let along that Vernaccia di San Gimignano was considered one of Italy’s great white wines. … Read more
Chianti: Confusing, But Worth Understanding
Americans love Chianti. Even those who rarely drink recognize the wine. It has the kind of name recognition that other wines can only dream about. Annually, we Americans actually drink almost twice as much Chianti Classico–wine from Chianti’s most important sub-region–as the Italians do.… Read more
Why Are Italian Wines So Popular?
Italian wine has always been popular in the U.S., and today accounts for a staggering one out of every three bottles imported into this country. … Read more
The Luberon: A Source of Wine for Winter Fare
Those of us in New England are now in the heart of winter. The short cold days and long nights fairly scream for hearty fare, such as lamb shanks or other slow cooked “stick to your ribs” fare–as my mother used to call it.… Read more
Apstein’s Winery of the Year for 2014: Maison Louis Latour
Maison Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best négociants, is my choice for winery of 2014 because it excels with wines at all levels, especially the less prestigious ones, and even their “simple” Bourgogne Rouge. … Read more
Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise: A Forgotten Gem
Trends in wine can be hard to understand. Current fashion, for example, catapults high-scoring “cult” wines, often more suitable for tasting than for drinking, to frenzied popularity and stratospheric prices. By contrast, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a well priced and versatile wine that is equally at home before dinner as it is at the end of the meal, risks extinction. … Read more
Are Old Vines Important?
What does it really mean when a label touts a wine as being made from “old vines?” (This would be rendered as Vieilles Vignes, Vecchie Viti or Viñas Viejas, depending on whether you’ve got a French, Italian or Spanish import.)… Read more
Estate Wines: What are They, and Are They Worth the Price?
The word “Estate” on a bottle of wine lends prestige and often entails a bigger price tag. But what does the term really mean…and is this designation actually worth the price premium?… Read more
Back to School
Along with the burgeoning interest in wine among American consumers has come an explosion of opportunities to learn about wine. It’s a far different state of affairs now than in the late 1970s and early 1980s, when I was learning about wine.… Read more
A Chablis Primer, With Good News Regarding 2012
Forgive me for beating this drum again, but Chablis remains one of the best–and perhaps the single best–white wine value in today’s world. As for recent developments, the 2012 vintage now on retailers’ shelves is not to be missed. … Read more
Prosecco: The Pinot Grigio of Bubbly?
Prosecco’s popularity around the world has soared–and for good reason. It’s a delightfully fresh and lively bubbly, perfect as an aperitif, especially in the summertime. “It’s a party in a bottle,” as Paul Wagner, head of Balzac Communications, a leading California marketing and public relations firm, described it.… Read more
Age-Worthy Italian White Wine is not an Oxymoron
Livio Felluga’s Terre Alte redefines Italian white wine for me. Andrea Felluga, the current winemaker and general manager of the family-run firm, was recently in New York and led a vertical tasting of eight vintages of Terre Alte, spanning 15 years, back to 1997, that showed how magnificently this white wine developed with bottle age.… Read more
Jadot in Oregon: Another French Invasion?
Jadot’s seemingly sudden expansion into Oregon was, as Pierre Henry Gagey, President of Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, describes it, “a perfect storm,” though a good one in this instance.… Read more
Groundbreaking Rosé From a Bordelais in Provence
Sacha Lichine’s upbringing in Bordeaux explains to me why his rosés from Provence are so stunning. Of course, it helps that Lichine’s consulting enologist, Patrick Léon, was, for almost 20 years, the Managing Director in charge of the vineyards and winemaking for all of Baron Philippe de Rothschild’s properties, including Château Mouton Rothschild.… Read more
An Unknown Tuscan Treasure
Move over Brunello, Chianti Classico and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. There’s a new kid on the Tuscan block, Montecucco, which is positioned to join this elite trio of regal red wines. With only 2,000-planted acres and about 70 small producers, Montecucco is tiny. … Read more
Gran Selezione: The True Pinnacle of Chianti Classico or Hype?
With the 2010 vintage of Chianti Classico, consumers will see a new class of wine identified by the words “Gran Selezione” on the label. Whether this new category represents progress depends on whom you ask.… Read more
Why Wine Prices Are Rising
I’m no economist, but the idea of supply and demand is a fundamental economic principle that even we non-economists can understand. As far as fine wine is concerned, the demand is rising rapidly and the supply is not. My recent trip to Hong Kong and Vietnam demonstrated just how much demand is rising.… Read more