($21, Monsièur Touton Selection): 
The wines from Morgon, another of the ten named villages of Beaujolais, tend to be firm, rather that fleshy. With its chiseled profile, this long and lively one from Copéret fits that mold. A savory accent of subtle smokiness complements its engaging austerity. … Read more
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Domaine Mont Bessay, Juliénas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “En Bessay” 2021
($50, Misa Imports): 
Wines from this new estate have the potential to put Juliénas on the same level as Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent when speaking of the Beaujolais cru. The stunning 2021 En Bessay delivers as explosive array of red fruit and spicy flavors, seamlessly woven together. … Read more
Three Sticks, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Gap’s Crown Vineyard 2021
($75): 
The Sonoma Coast (especially the part of the Sonoma Coast AVA that is west and elevated) is known for cooler temperatures that produce restrained, tensile Pinot Noirs, like this one. Bright and brimming with red cherry-like flavors, this fruit-driven, pristine Pinot Noir has good depth without being heavy. … Read more
Domaine des Bruyeres, Domaine des Bruyeres (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2020
($22, Peter Weygandt Selection): 
Chénas, the smallest of the ten named villages of Beaujolais, typically produces dark wines, like this one, that combine minerality and fruitiness. This Chénas from Peter Weygandt, always a reliable name on a back label, displays a charming beefiness balanced by fine, not hard, tannins. … Read more
Domaine Perroud, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) L’Enfer des Balloquets 2020
($23): 
The wines from Brouilly, the largest of the ten named villages of Beaujolais, typically provide more interest that a straight Beaujolais-Villages. This one supports that generalization. Fine acidity and a hint of tannic structure balances this ripe and generous Brouilly. … Read more
Terroir is Alive and Well on Mount Etna
One of things I adore about wine is how it expresses Mother Nature. The same grape grown in adjacent vineyards and turned into wine by the same winemaking team can taste very different. Winemakers attribute the differences to the composition of the soil (limestone, clay, or sand) exposure to the sun (do the grapes benefit from the gentler warming of the morning sun or the more intense afternoon sun?),
… Read more Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($33): 
Frescobaldi, the iconic Tuscan producer whose homebase is Chianti Rùfina, has recently expanded into Chianti Classico with their Perano estate. Just as they make exceptional wine in Rùfina, they have done the same at Perano. As expected from a Riserva, their 2018 has more weight and depth than their straight Chianti Classico. … Read more
Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) Rialzi 2018
($52): 
Grapes for a Gran Selezione bottling, which sits above Riserva at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, must come the estate’s own property — no purchased grapes allowed. Perano’s comes from a single vineyard, Rialzi, located at about 500 meters above sea level, which is a real advantage in these days of climate change. … Read more
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Volte dell’Ornellaia” 2021
($33, Vintus): 
Sometimes described as the “third” wine of Ornellaia, Le Volte is and it isn’t because it addition to estate wine that did not make it into either Ornellaia or Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia, Le Volte contains grapes that have been purchased from other sources. … Read more
Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($33): Frescobaldi, the iconic Tuscan producer whose homebase is Chianti Rùfina, has recently expanded into Chianti Classico with their Perano estate. Just as they make exceptional wine in Rùfina, they have done the same at Perano. As expected from a Riserva, their 2018 has more weight and depth than their straight Chianti Classico. … Read more
Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) Rialzi 2018
($52): Grapes for a Gran Selezione bottling, which sits above Riserva at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, must come the estate’s own property — no purchased grapes allowed. Perano’s comes from a single vineyard, Rialzi, located at about 500 meters above sea level, which is a real advantage in these days of climate change. … Read more
Maison Guillot-Broux, Mâcon Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2019
($23, Vintus): 
Domaine Guillot-Broux makes exceptional red wines from what most people consider an unexceptional place for them, the Mâconnais. Sure, the Mâconnais is home to a slew of terrific, and well-priced, whites. But reds? It’s not the first, or even the fourth, place people think of for reds. … Read more
Domaine Guillot-Broux, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Les Genièvrières” 2020
($46, Vintus): 
This stunning Bourgogne Rouge will change your mind about the quality of red wines coming from the Mâconnais. Firstly, Domaine Guillot-Broux is clearly a talented and detail-oriented producer. They waited 18 years before making a wine from Les Genièvrières, a vineyard in Cruzille, a village not far from the Abbaye de Cluny, because they didn’t think the vines were old enough to produce high-quality wine! … Read more
Château Boutisse, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2019
($41, Vintus): 
Usually when you see “Grand Cru” on a label it represents a higher level in a classification or stratification of a region. Not so in Saint-Émilion where it is an appellation, not an indicator of quality. The appellations of Saint-Émilion and Saint-Émilion Grand Cru are identical geographically. … Read more
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio alle Gazze” 2021
($73, Vintus): 
Sauvignon Blanc was among the initial plantings at Ornellaia and initially they made a wine exclusively from that variety. Over time, Viognier, Vermentino, and Verdicchio have been added and now the current blend includes those four in proportions that vary from year to year depending on the weather. … Read more
E. Guigal, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) 2019
($38, Vintus): 
Guigal now owns prized vineyards in Saint Joseph and makes highly acclaimed wines from them, much as they do in Côte Rôtie. The grapes for this juicy bottling come from their own vineyards plus ones they buy from other growers. … Read more
E. Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2020
($18, Vintus): 
Guigal’s single vineyard wines from the Côte Rôtie, La Mouline, La Landonne, and La Turque, which sell for hundreds of dollars upon release and are highly allocated, bring fame to that firm. In my mind, what makes Guigal a famed producer is this wine, their consistently excellent and well-priced Côtes du Rhône. … Read more
E. Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Brune et Blonde de Guigal” 2019
($91, Vintus): 
Côte Rôtie, or “roasted slope” transliterated into English, is composed of two major subdivisions, the Côte Brune and the Côte Blonde. Typically, the former imparts more power to the Syrah grown there because of the iron rich soil, while the latter is home to Syrah with more finesse, reflecting its limestone soil. … Read more
Château Tour Bayard, Montagne-Saint-Émillion (Bordeaux, France) 2019
($24, Vintus): 
Consumers often overlook Bordeaux because of an image that the wines are rarified, expensive, and need considerable aging. That criticism may apply to the top few properties, but trust me, there are scores of estates that make well-priced wines that are ready to drink now, like this one. … Read more
Château Recougne, Bordeaux Supérieur (France) 2019
($17, Vintus): 
Château Recougne consistently displays the quintessential Bordeaux profile of fruit and what I like to call, “not just fruit” character. This refined mid-weight wine entices with a subtle combination of red fruits, a dash of riper black fruit, and spice, not sheer power. … Read more
Object Lesson in Excellence: E. Guigal’s Côte-Rôtie “Château d’Ampuis” 2019
The Guigal family, the elder Marcel and his wife Bernadette, and their son Philippe and his wife Eve, have always focused on site specificity in the great Northern Rhône appellation of Côte-Rôtie. It started in 1966 when they bottled wine separately from La Mouline, a 2.5-acre vineyard planted with both Syrah and Viognier, in an amphitheater on the Côte Blonde slope of the appellation. … Read more
G. B. Burlotto, Langhe DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Freisa 2020
($30, Vineyard Road, Inc): 
Freisa, a grape related to Nebbiolo, typically has a significant tannin structure, much like Nebbiolo. Just as there are many examples of Langhe Nebbiolo that are approachable when young, here is a seductive Friesa Langhe DOC that is delightful to drink now. … Read more
Lunae, Liguria di Levante IGT (Italy) Vermentino “Labianca” 2022
($20): 
There is no better producer of Vermentino than Lunae. And this light — 12.5 percent stated alcohol — and fresh IGT Vermentino, their so-called “entry level” wine, shows Lunae’s talents. A hint of minerals buttressed by saline-acidity gives this bright and zesty wine a bit of depth. … Read more
Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Gris” 2022
($24): 
Anyone who wants to see the potential of Vermentino just needs to uncork one from Lunae. This one, which translates as Grey Label, is stunning, even though it is not their top-of-line bottling (that would be the Black Label, or Etichetta Nera. … Read more
Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2022
($42): 
Ok, forty plus bucks for a Vermentino is a big ask. Trust me, this is likely the best Vermentino you will ever taste. This tightly wound wonder (identified as “Etichetta Nera” or Black Label) has great power coupled with extraordinary grace. … Read more
Alessandro di Camporeale, Monreale DOC (Italy) Catarratto Vigna di Mandranova 2020
($19): 
New discoveries, interesting wines from place you’ve — or at least I’ve — never heard of, is one of the things I love about Italian wines. Here is yet another DOC I am unfamiliar with. You too could be excused if you are unfamiliar with Monreale, a tiny DOC comprising about 70 acres just west of Palermo. … Read more
Château Talbot, Saint-Julien (Bordeaux, France) “Connétable” 2018
($50): 
Château Talbot has consistently been a good value for top-end Bordeaux. Though classified as a 4th Growth in the 1855 Médoc Classification, its recent vintages effectively rank higher. Talbot’s 2nd wine, the 2018 Connétable, is especially noteworthy because of its luxurious texture and enjoyment it brings now. … Read more
Xanadu, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Circa 77” 2020
($18, RWG USA): 
This charming and restrained Cabernet is exactly the opposite of the heavy weight Cabernets coming from Australia or California. This mid-weight wine delivers a seamless and balanced combination of spice, black, and red fruit notes. The small (six percent) amount of Cabernet Franc in the blend announces itself by subtle and alluring leafy and herbal nuances and amplifies the wine’s charms. … Read more
Xanadu, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Vinework” 2020
($27, RWG USA): 
Glenn Goodall, Xanadu’s winemaker, explains that producers in the Margaret River they like to focus on what they do best — Cabernet Sauvignon. He notes with great pride that Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon wins, on average, 75 percent of all trophies in Australian wine competition, despite accounting for only three percent of the Cabernet Sauvignon that is crushed. … Read more
Eleven Eleven Wines, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Dutton Ranch 2021
($60): 
With a 14.1 percent stated alcohol, the lavish Eleven Eleven Russian River Valley Chardonnay is opulent, but not flamboyant. Balancing acidity keeps it all together. People who embrace the rich style of California Chardonnay will love this well-made, clean, and powerful wine. … Read more
Sella & Mosca, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “La Cala” 2022
($15, Taub Family Selections): 
Sella and Mosca’s lightweight (12.5 percent stated alcohol) and bargain priced Vermentino is a delight to drink with shellfish or most anything from the sea. It also works well by itself, especially during warm weather. Its invigorating saline minerality harmonizes with its floral character. … Read more
Luigi Baudana, Langhe Bianco DOC (Piedmont, Italy) “Dragon” 2021
($23, Vajra, USA): 
The dragon on the label symbolizes bravery, according to the website, which is appropriate since this beauty is a field-blend. Field blends can be tricky because varieties with different ripening times are planted — and harvested — together. … Read more
Attems, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Sauvignon Blanc “Cicinis” 2020
($34, Vintus): 
This mid-weight Sauvignon Blanc shows that where the grapes grow, Collio in this instance, matters. The energetic Cicinis subtly combines the characteristic pungency of Sauvignon Blanc with a delicate creaminess. A hint of bitterness in the finish balances appealing floral and peachy elements. … Read more
Langlois-Chateau, Crémant de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Brut NV
($24, Vintus): 
First a bit of trivia. Note the absence of a “hat” accent over the a in Chateau. That’s because it’s not a building but rather a proper name. In 1912, Edouard Langlois and Jeanne Chateau founded what has become the standard bearer of Loire Valley sparkling wines. … Read more
Loveblock Vintners, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Tee” 2022
($22, Terlato Wines International): 
The owners of Loveblock Vintners, Erica and Kim Crawford, are certainly no newcomers to New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, having established the very popular Kim Crawford label. Loveblock Vintners is their new venture, after selling the Kim Crawford brand to Vincor which eventually was gobbled up by Constellation Brands. … Read more
Domaine Pernot Belicard, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2021
($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs): 
I repeat what I’ve said before: Value in Burgundy these days is found at the lower pedigree appellations made by talented producers. Pernot Belicard is a great example of a top producer bottling exceptional white wines at every pedigree. … Read more
Xanadu, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay “Circa 77” 2021
($18, RWG USA): 
The 77 moniker refers to 1977, the year Dr. John Lagan, an Irishman, founded Xanadu. This light, fresh Chardonnay, weighing in at only 12.5 percent stated alcohol, will delight those who avoid the opulent buttery style of that varietal. … Read more
Xanadu, Margaret River (Western Australia) Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon “Vinework” 2022
($27, RWG USA): 
Glenn Goodall, Xanadu’s winemaker, explains that the blend, two-thirds Sauvignon Blanc and one-third Semillon, is the signature of Western Australia, especially the Margaret River. He treats the varieties differently, “no witchcraft” as he puts it for the Semillon, simply tank fermentation. … Read more
Xanadu, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay “Vinework” 2021
($27, RWG USA): 
Xanadu’s rich and luxurious Vinework Chardonnay bookends beautifully with their Circa 77. It is plush yet not heavy. It may not have the alluring minerality of white Burgundy, but it does have the Burgundian sensibility of flavor without weight, as the 12.5 percent stated alcohol reflects. … Read more
Three Takes on Second Wines
No one wants to be second. Nobody strives to come in second. Second place is just not built-in to our DNA. For example, my daughter, a NCAA Gold Medal winner coxswain during college, referred to a Silver Medal winner—2nd place—as “the first loser.” … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2022
($18): 
Iris Vineyards does it again with their racy and sleek 2022 Pinot Gris. Despite a modest 11.5 percent state alcohol, this light-weight wine packs a pleasing punch. Floral and bright, it dances on the palate, revealing delicate hint of pears and stone fruit flavors. … Read more
Mount Veeder Winery, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2021
($50): 
Mount Veeder Winery, justifiably known for their Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet blends, has released their first Chardonnay — and it’s a resounding success. Opulent but not overdone, it displays a buttery richness supported by uplifting acidity and energy. It even displays a welcome hint of bitterness in the finish, reinforcing the sensory impression that it’s not a fruit bomb. … Read more
Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2021
($33, Frescobaldi): 
Though I have always been impressed by any of Frescobaldi’s Chianti Rufina — after all they are THE name in that appellation — I remember being disappointed when I tasted their first vintage of Chianti Classico a few years ago. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2021
($22, Kobrand): 
Value in Burgundy these days is found at the lower pedigree appellations made by talented producers. Enter this Bourgogne Rouge from Jadot. With an engaging combination of savory notes intertwined with hints of red and black fruit, this mid-weight wine is real Burgundy, or Bourgogne as the French would prefer to call it. … Read more
Caprio Cellars, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) “Sanitella” Estate Red Wine 2020
($88): 
An unnecessarily heavy bottle forecasts a hefty wine, which it is. A Cabernet Sauvignon-heavy blend pumped up with Malbec and Merlot, it delivers riper black fruit notes wrapped with suave tannins. Despite a richer and deeper profile compared to Caprio’s “Eleanor” bottling, it still has an engaging and balancing bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Conde Valdemar, Rioja Crianza (Spain) Tempranillo 2018
($20): 
It’s hard to beat Rioja for satisfying mid-weight well-priced reds. Take this delightful example. Conde Valdemar has made a seamless combination of dark fruitiness touched by a kiss of seductive oak, all enlivened by lip-smacking acidity. Fine tannins make this bright and fresh beauty great for current drinking with anything from a roast chicken and mushrooms to skirt steak fresh from the grill.… Read more
Duca di Salaparuta, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Grillo “Calanica” 2022
($18): 
It is no surprise that Duca di Salaparuta, one of Sicily’s leading producers, makes a delightful wine from Grillo, one of Sicily’s indigenous white grapes. This crisp and clean light-weight beauty cries for fish or shellfish. A saline-like acidity and hint of bitterness in the finish imparts a surprising length. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Ruelles 2015
($50): 
This delightful wine shows that value in Burgundy is alive and well. Owned by the Devillard family, the Château de Chamirey is one of, if not THE, leading estates in Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise, just south of the Côte d’Or. … Read more
Frenzy, New Zealand () Sauvignon Blanc 2022
($15, Wilson Daniels): 
The Marlborough region of New Zealand’s south island is responsible for the acclaim, enthusiasm, and world-wide excitement for that country’s Sauvignon Blanc. That region does make distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. But, as this wine shows, Marlborough does not have a monopoly on distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Santenay (Burgundy, France) Clos des Gatsulards 2020
($51, Kobrand): 
Domaine Gagey in the rectangle at the bottom of the label means that the Gagey family, the longtime directors of Maison Jadot, owns the property. So, in essence, this is an estate wine as opposed to a négociant wine for which Jadot would have purchased the grapes from another grower. … Read more