($15, Moolight Wine Company): The Valdeorras DO, nestled in the northwest corner of Spain, has yet to gain the widespread recognition it deserves as a prime locale for the Godello grape and the wonderfully piercing wine that is made from it. This one has a Riesling-like verve and a coupled with a delicate Chardonnay-like creaminess. Its palate-cleansing acidity makes it an ideal choice for a wide variety of fare, from sautéed scallops in a creamy sauce to a robust piece of grilled wild salmon. Godello from Valdeorras is a wine to embrace now before its popularity pushes the prices up and availability down. 91 Michael Apstein Oct 2, 2012