($20, Frederick Wildman):  Hugel, a family run firm established in picturesque town of Riquewihr in 1639, is one of Alsace’s best producers.  This, their “basic” Riesling, is made from grapes grown in the surrounding area, which is a part of Alsace well known for the varietal.  It’s classic Alsace Riesling:  Dry, but not austere, with good body and weight.  Not the lacy floral style of Riesling, it delivers subtle earthy notes buttressed by citrus notes.  It would be an excellent choice to cut through the spice and boisterously flavored Asian food. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 15, 2011