($35, Montcalm Wine Importers): Unsurprisingly, given the stature of the producer, this wine manages a presence without being powerful or in your face. Its unusual blend, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot and Montepulciano, speaks to the experimentation going on in the Maremma. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy – Tuscany
Geografico, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Borgo alla Terra” 2020
($12): This is a great example of the straightforward — fruity and fragrant — style of Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Its youthful crispness is emphasized by a delightful salty rather than lemony acidity, which keeps it fresh and lively. Daniele Cernilli, one of Italy’s top wine authorities explains that the salty acidity comes from an abundance of tartaric rather than malic acid characteristic of Mediterranean wines. … Read more
Teruzzi, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Isola Bianca” 2020
($16, Taub Family Selections): The name of the wine, which transliterates into English as “white island” refers to Vernaccia di San Gimignano’s situation as the sole white DOCG in a sea of Tuscany red wine. Teruzzi, formerly named Teruzzi & Puthod, remains one of the region’s top producers despite the name change. … Read more
Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Campo della Pieve” 2018
($28): Campo della Pieve is one of Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara’s top cuvées of Vernaccia di San Gimignano. It is distinguished from their easy-to-recommend regular bottling, labeled Selvabianca, by extended lees aging, which occurs for about 18 months in concrete tanks. … Read more
Etna Erupts
Tenuta di Arceno, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2017
($31): Tenuta di Arceno managed to succeed in a difficult vintage. Their bold style worked well in 2017 because they captured ripeness, good acidity and suave tannins simultaneously. Though rich and fruity, a subtly haunting bitterness in the finish reminds us, thankfully, it’s not just about fruit. … Read more
Grignano, Chianti Rufina DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($24, Montcalm Wine Importers): Consumers sometimes forget there are sub-zones other than Chianti Classico in the greater Chianti area that spreads between Florence and Siena. The Chianti Rufina area, just to the northeast of Florence, is home to some wonderful wines, including this one from Grignano. … Read more
Fattoria Varramista, Toscana IGP (Tuscany, Italy) “Frasca” 2015
($33): Fattoria Varramista, located halfway between Florene and Pisa, has about 20 acres of vineyards planted to Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah. They expertly blend those grapes to make this glossy well-proportioned wine where none of its elements predominate. Fleshy, but not overly fruity, savory notes remain in this traditionally framed wine. … Read more
Celli, Bertinaro Romagna DOC (Emilia Romagna) Sangiovese Riserva, “Bron & Rusèval” 2017
($28): Since Sangiovese, a grape associated with Tuscany, is the most widely planted grape in Italy, it is not surprising to find excellent wines made from it outside of that region. Here’s one such example from nearby Romagna, which Mauro Sirri, the owner of Celli, is quick to identify as distinct from Emilia: “They’re known for Lambrusco; we’re known for dry wines.” … Read more
2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Don’t Miss Them
The great success of the 2016 vintage throughout Tuscany suggested that the just-released 2016 Brunello would be memorable. Is it ever! To my mind, it is, by far, the best vintage since 2010. I certainly prefer the 2016s in general to the more powerful and overdone Brunello from the much-hyped 2015 vintage. … Read more
Col d’Orcia, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2016
($45, Taub Family Selections): Col d’Orcia, one of the largest producers of Brunello di Montalcino, has proven, time and time again, that quality and quantity can go together. They did it again with their positively stellar 2016 Brunello. The 2016 vintage is outstanding throughout Tuscany.… Read more
Il Poggiolo, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2015
($70, Enotec Imports, Inc): A paradox, the traditionally framed Il Poggiolo Brunello marries the ripeness of the 2015 vintage with a lovely austerity. Not a blowsy wine, it combines dark cherry-like fruit with a core of minerals. Importantly, especially for the vintage, it has great acidity, which imparts a wonderful vivacity to the wine. … Read more
Fanetti – Tenuta S. Agnese, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Riserva 2015
($33, Enotec Imports, Inc): Fanetti, one of the great names for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, has produced a fabulous 2015 Riserva from their Tenuta S. Agnese estate. Traditionally framed, that is, not all gussied up with oak and over ripe fruit, the dark cherry-like fruit of Sangiovese shines. … Read more
Buli, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Estate 44” 2016
($20, Dark Star Imports): Estate 44 pays tribute to the Allied soldiers, including the owner’s father, who liberated Tuscany in the summer of 1944. A blend of Sangiovese (60%) Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) and equal amounts of Syrah and Merlot, it is more muscular than Buli’s 515 bottling, but has the same grace, suaveness and structure. … Read more
Buli, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese “515” 2016
($20, Dark Star Imports): Robert Buly, an American who owns Buli, was drawn to Italy by heritage: his father married an Italian woman from Tuscany soon after WWII ended. On their website, he jokes that his father met his mother while on the search for red wine to drink. … Read more
Cecchi, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Riserva di Famiglia” 2016
($48, Terlato): Cecchi is one of the great names for Tuscan wines, especially Chianti Classico. Combine their talents with a great vintage, like 2016, and, unsurprisingly, you have a truly fine wine. It conveys both the charm and power of a Chianti Classico Riserva reinforced and amplified by great acidity, a characteristic of the vintage. … Read more
Cecchi, Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Valore di Famiglia” 2016
($65): Gran Selezione is a relatively new category of Chianti Classico. It sits at the pinnacle of the quality pyramid, above Riserva. Regulations require, among other things, that the grapes come entirely from the producers’ vineyards — no purchased fruit is allowed — and that the wine must be aged for 30 months before release, compared to 24 months for Riserva. … Read more
Castello di Fonterutoli, Leading the Way
With the release of a trio of 2017 Gran Selezione wines, Castello di Fonterutoli is leading the way, showing the importance of terroir—site specificity—in Chianti Classico. Chianti Classico producers have long proclaimed that there are major differences among the wines produced in the region’s nine subzones. … Read more
Castello di Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Badiòla” 2017
($99, Taub Family Selections): Giovanni Mazzei, Fonterutoli’s export manager, believes that the vineyard’s southern exposure and high elevation (almost 1900 feet above sea level) combines great sunlight with large diurnal temperature variation, the combination of which results in ripeness and freshness. … Read more
Castello di Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Vicoregio 36” 2017
($99): The Mazzei family planted 36 biotypes of Sangiovese in their Vicoregio vineyard in Castelnuovo Berardenga. Hence the name of the wine. This one, the deepest of the trio, conveys black cherry-like flavors, bordering on plumy ones, reflecting the warmth of Castelnuovo Berardenga. … Read more
Castello di Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Castello Fonterutoli” 2017
($74, Taub Family Selections): The grapes for “Castello Fonterutoli” come from 11 different plots around the hamlet of Fonterutoli. Each plot is vinified separately, allowing precision in constructing the blend. The 2017 is the first year the wine was made entirely from Sangiovese. … Read more
Col d’Orcia, Sant’Antimo DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Rosso Col d’Orcia” 2014
($25, Taub Family Selections): Col d’Orcia, best known for their stunning Brunello di Montalcino, makes other wines. At first glance at the label, you might think this is their Rosso di Montalcino. It’s not. Also, don’t be put off by the 2014 vintage, which was, as the Italians themselves describe it, “difficult.” … Read more
Boscarelli, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Il Nocio 2016
($159, Empson USA): The 2016 Il Nocio is an extraordinary wine. Boscarelli is one of the top producers — some would say THE top producer — of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Il Nocio, from the vineyard of the same name, is their top wine. … Read more
Colle Santa Mustiola di Fabio Cenni, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese Poggio ai Chiari 2011
($80, Selezioni Varietali): This is my first encounter with this producer, but it certainly will not be my last given the quality of this wine. Their importer tells me Cenni’s focus is Sangiovese, with their 12 acres planted entirely with 28 clones of that variety. … Read more
Boscarelli, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Il Nocio 2016

Pietro Beconcini, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Reciso” 2015
($35, Beivuma Wines): Beconcini, located in San Miniato, a small town halfway between Pisa and Florence, makes range of wines from a Chianti to this one, his top of the line. Made entirely from organically-grown Sangiovese, it’s a beauty, probably, in part at least, because of the age of the vines. … Read more
Colle Santa Mustiola di Fabio Cenni, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese Poggio ai Chiari 2011
($80, Selezioni Varietali): This is my first encounter with this producer, but it certainly will not be my last given the quality of this wine. Their importer tells me Cenni’s focus is Sangiovese, with their 12 acres planted entirely with 28 clones of that variety. … Read more
Usiglian del Vescovo, Terre di Pisa DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Barbiglione” 2015
($32, Wine Worldwide Inc): The Terre di Pisa DOC is not even a decade old, having been founded only in 2011. It’s a tiny area (less than 150 acres) with only a handful of producers, surrounding the Tuscan town of Pisa on Italy’s west coast, north of Bolgheri. … Read more
Castello La Leccia, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Bruciagna” 2015
($40, Ideal Wine): Gran Selezione, a category introduced a decade ago, sits at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, above Riserva. To qualify for this distinction, the wine must come from the producer’s estate — no purchased grapes allowed — be aged for a minimum of 30 months, and receive approval from a tasting panel. … Read more
Tua Rita, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Rosso dei Notri” 2019
($22, Winebow): One of the things I admire about producers, such as Tua Rita, who can make a high-end wine (in Tua Rita’s case, their Redigaffi a $300+ per bottle Merlot) is that they can also produce a perfectly delightful $25 wine, such as this Rosso dei Notri. … Read more
Poggioargentiera, Morellino di Scansano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Bellamarsilia” 2019
($16): Morellino di Scansano is yet another Tuscan wine region that uses primarily Sangiovese for its red wines. Located in the Maremma part of Tuscany on the region’s southeast coast, it received DOCG designation (Italy’s highest official wine classification) in 2006. … Read more
Capezzana, Carmignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Villa di Capezzana” 2010
($56, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Carmignano, lying just northwest of Florence and Tuscany’s smallest DOCG, is really the original Super Tuscan. Regulations there mandated the marriage of Cabernet, either Sauvignon or Franc, with Sangiovese long before that blend became popular elsewhere in Tuscany. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Pian della Casina “Sergioveto” 2016
($53, Palm Bay International): Rocca delle Macìe changed the blend, vineyard site, and appellation for this wine starting with the 2015 vintage. The wine was originally created in 1985 as a Super Tuscan by Italo Zingarelli, the company’s founder, and named for his son, Sergio, the current head of the company. … Read more
Terre del Palio, Rosso di Montalcino DOC (Tuscany, Italy) 2017
($32, Seaview Imports): Rosso di Montalcino is a great introduction to Brunello di Montalcino, one of Italy’s greatest wines. Similar to Brunello, Rosso must be made entirely from Sangiovese — no blending with Cabernet, Merlot, or anything allowed. This mid-weight wine delivers sour cherry-like fruitiness — the Sangiovese speaking — and a hint of tarry minerality, which is emblematic of the area. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Toscana IGP (Tuscany, Italy) Cabernet Sauvignon “Roccato” 2016
($58, Palm Bay International): Rocca delle Macìe created Roccato, their Super Tuscan 50/50 Sangiovese-Cabernet Sauvignon blend, in 1988. Starting with the 2015 vintage, it is now entirely Cabernet Sauvignon, which is grown on their Poggio alle Pecchie vineyard on the Le Macìe estate located in Castellina in Chianti. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Famiglia Zingarelli” 2017
($27, Palm Bay International): This is great success for the difficult and hot 2017 vintage in Chianti Classico. One producer was so despondent he actually told me that you could forget about the vintage entirely. This wine clearly shows that assessment to be inaccurate. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Sergio Zingarelli” 2016
($100, Palm Bay International): As with their superb Chianti Classico Riserva, “Sergioveto,” Rocca delle Macìe has tweaked the style of their Chianti Classico Gran Selezione “Sergio Zingarelli.” They reduced the oak aging and eliminated the Colorino, so the 2016 is made entirely from Sangiovese. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Pian della Casina “Sergioveto” 2016
($53, Palm Bay International): Rocca delle Macìe changed the blend, vineyard site, and appellation for this wine starting with the 2015 vintage. The wine was originally created in 1985 as a Super Tuscan by Italo Zingarelli, the company’s founder, and named for his son, Sergio, the current head of the company. … Read more
Talenti, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2015
($50): Talenti must have harvested the Sangiovese at precisely the right time in 2015, judging from the balance in this wine. The 2015 growing season in Montalcino was, similar to the remainder of Tuscany, hot and produced rich, ripe wines, sometimes even over-ripe and jam-y ones. … Read more
Tua Rita, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Rosso dei Notri” 2017
($22, Winebow): Tua Rita, best known for their show-stopping monovarietal Merlot called Redigaffi that routinely sells at release for $300+, makes two other wines consumers should embrace. This one, a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, should be in everyone’s cellar. … Read more
Tua Rita, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Perlato del Bosco” 2016
($30, Winebow): Perlato del Bosco shows the broad talents at Tue Rita. They make the Redigaffi Super Tuscan (and Super Priced) Merlot as well as the bargain-priced and delicious Rossi dei Notri. Here’s Perlato del Bosco, a marvelous wine made entirely from Sangiovese and displaying a completely different profile. … Read more
Principe Corsini, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Corti” 2015
($24): The more I taste Chianti Classico wines from the 2015 vintage, the more I like them. Take this one, for example, from Principe Corsini, whose consistency makes them an easy choice. It’s fresh and lively with zippy Tuscan acidity that balances the cherry-like fruit characteristic of Sangiovese. … Read more
Bibi Graetz, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Bollamatta” Rosé NV
($26, Folio Fine Wine Partners): This label of this rosé lacks identity, so I relied on Bibi Graetz’s website, which explained that it’s a Tuscan wine made entirely from 50 to 80-year-old Sangiovese vines. The grape variety and the age of the vines helps explain why this bubbly delivers such pleasure. … Read more
Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “L’Alberello” 2015
($80, Winebow): The Bertarelli family, who owns Colle Massari, a leading estate in Montecucco, also owns Grattamacco in Bolgheri. They founded Grattamacco in 1977, shortly after Sassicaia was established nearby. Grattamacco’s flagship wine, also named Grattamacco and priced at $135+ a bottle, is an unusual blend for Bolgheri because it includes a little Sangiovese, a grape not widely planted in that part of Tuscany. … Read more
Castiglion del Bosco, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) “Gauggiole” 2016
($37, Maisons Marques & Domaines): Castiglion del Bosco, a top producer in Montalcino, consistently produces excellent Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino. They have recently added this specially selected Rosso, labeled Gauggiole after the area in which the vineyards are planted. … Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2015
($54, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Silvio Nardi is one of my favorite Brunello producers, in part because they are consistent and in part because they make single vineyard bottlings from different sections of Montalcino that highlight the exciting diversity of that appellation. … Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Vigneto Manachiara 2015
($110, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Silvio Nardi refers to the wine from their Manachiara vineyard as a wine of the East, because the vineyard is located in the eastern part of Montalcino and the vines face southeast. The 2015 shows the ripeness of the vintage without being over the top.… Read more
Talenti, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2015
($46): The warm and dry 2015 growing season in Brunello was the opposite of the cool and rainy weather of 2014. That weather explains the potential pitfalls for the wines — ripe and alcoholic with low acidity. Talenti avoided those problems with their 2015 Brunello. … Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio Doria 2015
($110, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Nardi’s Poggio Doria vineyard lies in the cooler northwest sector of Montalcino and consistently produces elegant, tightly wound wines. More closed and less powerful than the Manachiara, the Poggio Doria reflects its cooler environment. Volcanic soil here amplifies the wine’s dark mineral component. … Read more
Castellare di Castellina, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Il Poggiale 2016
($35, Winebow): Castellare di Castellina, one of Chianti’s traditional and best producers, hits the bullseye again with this Riserva. The grapes come from a single vineyard that they think produces superior fruit. After tasting it, I certainly agree there’s something special going on. … Read more