($60, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Ghiaie della Furba, a Super Tuscan blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah from Capezzana, Carmignano’s top producer, is a robust wine when young. Even at eight years of age, this tightly wound beauty reveals its glories slowly as it sits in the glass. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy – Tuscany
Tenuta di Capezzana, Carmignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Villa di Capezzana” 2016
($31, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Carmignano, Tuscany’s smallest DOCG, is unique because it requires the use of Cabernet, either Sauvignon or Franc, in the blend with Sangiovese. Capezzana makes the benchmark Carmignano. Their 2016, from a spectacular vintage and still widely available retail, is a great introduction to the DOCG. … Read more
Finger Lakes Riesling: Paul Hobbs Has Landed
Will Paul Hobbs be the Rocket that launches New York’s Finger Lakes region?
Every under-recognized fine wine region needs a high-profile producer to be a locomotive to pull it onto the world’s stage. With his new venture, Hillick and Hobbs, named after his parents, Joan Hillick and Edward Hobbs, Paul Hobbs just might do it for New York’s Finger Lakes.… Read more
Vini Franchetti Tenuta di Trinoro, Toscano Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Cupole” 2020
($35): Cupole is the second wine of Tenuta di Tinoro, a “Super Tuscan” that commands a three-digit price tag — and the first digit is not a one. Like the first wine, Cupole is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot that varies year to year to years depending on how the individual varieties fare during the growing season. … Read more
Fattoria Selvapiana, Chianti Rùfina Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Vigneto Bucerchiale 2015
($48, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Chianti Rùfina, along with Chianti Classico, is the best subzone of the greater Chianti denomination. Selvapiana is one of Rùfina’s top producers and Vigneto Bucerchiale is their top wine. So, this wine is a “no-brainer,” especially since it has seven years under its belt and has just hit its drinkable window. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Maremma Toscana DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Campo Maccione” 2021
($16, Taub Family Selections): To capture the crisp clean character of this wine, Rocca delle Macìe harvests the grapes early in the morning, when it is cool. Then, they are kept on dry ice until they reach the winery where a cold fermentation occurs in stainless tanks. … Read more
Changes in Chianti: A Boon or TMI?
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($25, Volio Imports): What a difference a few hills and a little elevation makes. Year in and year out, Cecchi’s Villa Cerna Chianti Classico Reserva is one of my favorites. The 2018 is no exception. A blend of Sangiovese (95%) and Colorino, there are no international influences of Cabernet, Merlot, or oak-aging. … Read more
Villa Rosa, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($48, Volio Imports): Gran Selezione is a new category of Chianti Classico that sits above Reserva, at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid. Without getting into the weeds regarding the regulations for Gran Selezione, suffice it to say it should be the producer’s best Chianti Classico. … Read more
Villa Rosa, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Ribaldoni” 2018
($15, Volio Imports): The 2018 Ribaldoni Chianti Classico comes from Villa Rosa’s youngest vines. Lighter than the similarly priced Primocolle from Villa Cerna, it displays the same seamless balance of bright juicy fruit, spice, and good depth. Not overdone, it is lively and direct, with just the right tannic structure, exactly what you would expect from Chianti Classico. … Read more
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Primocolle 2019
($15, Volio Imports): The Cecchi family, one of the top producers in Tuscany, have two separate and distinct estates in Chianti Classico, Villa Cerna and Villa Rosa. Unsurprisingly, the wines from the two estates are very different because of the diversity of soil, climate, exposure — in sum, the terroir — even over a short distance. … Read more
Cecchi, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Riserva di Famiglia” 2015
($32, Terlato Wines International): Cecchi’s Chianti Classico Riserva, unsurprisingly, is bigger and more powerful than their 2019 regular (annata) bottling. Weighing in at 14 percent stated alcohol, it has more power, yet retains elegance. The wood is still showing at this stage, but from my experience with their wines, it will become better integrated after another year or so in the bottle. … Read more
Cecchi, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Storia di Famiglia” 2019
($27, Terlato Wines International): This Chianti Classico shows why Cecchi is one of Tuscany’s top producers. Based in Castellina in Chianti, the heart of Chianti Classico region, Cecchi has fashioned a lovely, mid-weight wine that combines savory elements — earthy notes — with cherry-scented flavors. … Read more
San Felice, Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio Rosso” 2016
($70, Vision Wine and Spirits): Gran Selezione is a relatively new, not even a decade old, category of Chianti Classico. It sits at the pinnacle of the region’s quality pyramid, which now has the three levels: annata or regular bottling, Riserva, and finally Gran Selezione. … Read more
Campogiovanni, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2016
($63, Vision Wine and Spirits): San Felice, a top Chianti Classico producer, also owns the Campogiovanni estate in Montalcino. They produced a stunning Brunello in 2016. The San Felice’s wines always express power, but they manage to modulate it so that the terroir is not overwhelmed. … Read more
The 2017 Brunellos: Like Wagner’s Music-Not as Bad as It Sounds
Profile: Mazzei Castello di Fonterutoli, Toscana IGT “Siepi” 2019
Siepi, a single vineyard blend of roughly equal amounts of Sangiovese and Merlot, is a true Super Tuscan wine. The vineyard, believed to be one of the oldest in Italy, dates from the 15th century if not earlier, its existence having been noted in a document from 1435. … Read more
Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria/Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Black Label” 2020
($40, Montcalm Wine Importers): There us Vermentino, then there is Lunae Black Label Vermentino. I’ve always loved this wine and the 2020 is no exception. It has everything: richness, a saline-infused minerality, and extraordinary freshness. It has a seemingly never ending finish. … Read more
2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Don’t Miss Them
The great success of the 2016 vintage throughout Tuscany suggested that the just-released 2016 Brunello would be memorable. Is it ever! To my mind, it is, by far, the best vintage since 2010. I certainly prefer the 2016s in general to the more powerful and overdone Brunello from the much-hyped 2015 vintage. … Read more
Ornellaia, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Volte” dell’Ornellaia 2019
($26, Folio Fine Wine Partners): No one needs an introduction to Ornellaia, a Bordeaux-blend and one of Italy’s greatest wines. But some explanation about Le Volte is important since even Ornellaia’s website reveals few details of this wine. Ornellaia took a giant leap in quality in 1997 when they introduced Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia, a second wine, also a Bordeaux-blend. … Read more
Bertinga, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) 2016
($75, Massanois): Located in Gaiole in Chianti in the heart of the Chianti Classico region, Bertinga is a new venture. The 2016s are their first release. After tasting their wines, I have a feeling their success is not beginner’s luck. Their 50 or so acres of vineyards are planted exclusively with Sangiovese and Merlot. … Read more
Bertinga, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Volta di Bertinga” 2016
($169, Massanois): This 100 percent Merlot is equally expressive and explosive as Bertinga’s Punta di Adine, just in an entirely different way. While Punta displays red fruit qualities, Volta di Bertinga is all about black fruit complemented by tar-like minerality. It’s a wonderful red-black contrast. … Read more
Bertinga, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Punta di Adine” 2016
($119, Massanois): This gorgeous wine comes exclusively from Sangiovese planted in a six-acre vineyard in Gaiole in Chianti that sits at an altitude of about 1,800 feet. The elevation moderates the temperature, especially at night, which allows the grapes to retain more acidity. … Read more
Villa Vignamaggio, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Monna Lisa” 2017
($55, Montcalm Wine Importers): Gran Selezione is a relatively new quality category, aiming to represent the pinnacle of a producer’s Chianti Classico production. This gorgeous wine certainly achieves that distinction. It’s all the more impressive considering Villa Vignamaggio managed to produce such a stellar wine in 2017, a difficult year for Chianti Classico. … Read more
Villa Vignamaggio, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Terre di Prenzano” 2018
($25, Montcalm Wine Importers): Villa Vignamaggio’s 2018 Chianti Classico is textbook Chianti Classico and reminds us why that category is so popular. Made entirely from Sangiovese, this mid-weight wine delivers the ideal combination of dark fruit and savory nuances, all wrapped in a suave texture. … Read more
Guicciardini Strozzi, Maremma Toscana DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “MoMi” 2018
($35, Montcalm Wine Importers): Unsurprisingly, given the stature of the producer, this wine manages a presence without being powerful or in your face. Its unusual blend, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot and Montepulciano, speaks to the experimentation going on in the Maremma. … Read more
Geografico, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Borgo alla Terra” 2020
($12): This is a great example of the straightforward — fruity and fragrant — style of Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Its youthful crispness is emphasized by a delightful salty rather than lemony acidity, which keeps it fresh and lively. Daniele Cernilli, one of Italy’s top wine authorities explains that the salty acidity comes from an abundance of tartaric rather than malic acid characteristic of Mediterranean wines. … Read more
Teruzzi, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Isola Bianca” 2020
($16, Taub Family Selections): The name of the wine, which transliterates into English as “white island” refers to Vernaccia di San Gimignano’s situation as the sole white DOCG in a sea of Tuscany red wine. Teruzzi, formerly named Teruzzi & Puthod, remains one of the region’s top producers despite the name change. … Read more
Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Campo della Pieve” 2018
($28): Campo della Pieve is one of Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara’s top cuvées of Vernaccia di San Gimignano. It is distinguished from their easy-to-recommend regular bottling, labeled Selvabianca, by extended lees aging, which occurs for about 18 months in concrete tanks. … Read more
Etna Erupts
Tenuta di Arceno, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2017
($31): Tenuta di Arceno managed to succeed in a difficult vintage. Their bold style worked well in 2017 because they captured ripeness, good acidity and suave tannins simultaneously. Though rich and fruity, a subtly haunting bitterness in the finish reminds us, thankfully, it’s not just about fruit. … Read more
Grignano, Chianti Rufina DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($24, Montcalm Wine Importers): Consumers sometimes forget there are sub-zones other than Chianti Classico in the greater Chianti area that spreads between Florence and Siena. The Chianti Rufina area, just to the northeast of Florence, is home to some wonderful wines, including this one from Grignano. … Read more
Fattoria Varramista, Toscana IGP (Tuscany, Italy) “Frasca” 2015
($33): Fattoria Varramista, located halfway between Florene and Pisa, has about 20 acres of vineyards planted to Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah. They expertly blend those grapes to make this glossy well-proportioned wine where none of its elements predominate. Fleshy, but not overly fruity, savory notes remain in this traditionally framed wine. … Read more
Celli, Bertinaro Romagna DOC (Emilia Romagna) Sangiovese Riserva, “Bron & Rusèval” 2017
($28): Since Sangiovese, a grape associated with Tuscany, is the most widely planted grape in Italy, it is not surprising to find excellent wines made from it outside of that region. Here’s one such example from nearby Romagna, which Mauro Sirri, the owner of Celli, is quick to identify as distinct from Emilia: “They’re known for Lambrusco; we’re known for dry wines.” … Read more
2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Don’t Miss Them
The great success of the 2016 vintage throughout Tuscany suggested that the just-released 2016 Brunello would be memorable. Is it ever! To my mind, it is, by far, the best vintage since 2010. I certainly prefer the 2016s in general to the more powerful and overdone Brunello from the much-hyped 2015 vintage. … Read more
Col d’Orcia, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2016
($45, Taub Family Selections): Col d’Orcia, one of the largest producers of Brunello di Montalcino, has proven, time and time again, that quality and quantity can go together. They did it again with their positively stellar 2016 Brunello. The 2016 vintage is outstanding throughout Tuscany.… Read more
Il Poggiolo, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2015
($70, Enotec Imports, Inc): A paradox, the traditionally framed Il Poggiolo Brunello marries the ripeness of the 2015 vintage with a lovely austerity. Not a blowsy wine, it combines dark cherry-like fruit with a core of minerals. Importantly, especially for the vintage, it has great acidity, which imparts a wonderful vivacity to the wine. … Read more
Fanetti – Tenuta S. Agnese, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Riserva 2015
($33, Enotec Imports, Inc): Fanetti, one of the great names for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, has produced a fabulous 2015 Riserva from their Tenuta S. Agnese estate. Traditionally framed, that is, not all gussied up with oak and over ripe fruit, the dark cherry-like fruit of Sangiovese shines. … Read more
Buli, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Estate 44” 2016
($20, Dark Star Imports): Estate 44 pays tribute to the Allied soldiers, including the owner’s father, who liberated Tuscany in the summer of 1944. A blend of Sangiovese (60%) Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) and equal amounts of Syrah and Merlot, it is more muscular than Buli’s 515 bottling, but has the same grace, suaveness and structure. … Read more
Buli, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese “515” 2016
($20, Dark Star Imports): Robert Buly, an American who owns Buli, was drawn to Italy by heritage: his father married an Italian woman from Tuscany soon after WWII ended. On their website, he jokes that his father met his mother while on the search for red wine to drink. … Read more
Cecchi, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Riserva di Famiglia” 2016
($48, Terlato): Cecchi is one of the great names for Tuscan wines, especially Chianti Classico. Combine their talents with a great vintage, like 2016, and, unsurprisingly, you have a truly fine wine. It conveys both the charm and power of a Chianti Classico Riserva reinforced and amplified by great acidity, a characteristic of the vintage. … Read more
Cecchi, Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Valore di Famiglia” 2016
($65): Gran Selezione is a relatively new category of Chianti Classico. It sits at the pinnacle of the quality pyramid, above Riserva. Regulations require, among other things, that the grapes come entirely from the producers’ vineyards — no purchased fruit is allowed — and that the wine must be aged for 30 months before release, compared to 24 months for Riserva. … Read more
Castello di Fonterutoli, Leading the Way
With the release of a trio of 2017 Gran Selezione wines, Castello di Fonterutoli is leading the way, showing the importance of terroir—site specificity—in Chianti Classico. Chianti Classico producers have long proclaimed that there are major differences among the wines produced in the region’s nine subzones. … Read more
Castello di Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Badiòla” 2017
($99, Taub Family Selections): Giovanni Mazzei, Fonterutoli’s export manager, believes that the vineyard’s southern exposure and high elevation (almost 1900 feet above sea level) combines great sunlight with large diurnal temperature variation, the combination of which results in ripeness and freshness. … Read more
Castello di Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Vicoregio 36” 2017
($99): The Mazzei family planted 36 biotypes of Sangiovese in their Vicoregio vineyard in Castelnuovo Berardenga. Hence the name of the wine. This one, the deepest of the trio, conveys black cherry-like flavors, bordering on plumy ones, reflecting the warmth of Castelnuovo Berardenga. … Read more
Castello di Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Castello Fonterutoli” 2017
($74, Taub Family Selections): The grapes for “Castello Fonterutoli” come from 11 different plots around the hamlet of Fonterutoli. Each plot is vinified separately, allowing precision in constructing the blend. The 2017 is the first year the wine was made entirely from Sangiovese. … Read more
Col d’Orcia, Sant’Antimo DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Rosso Col d’Orcia” 2014
($25, Taub Family Selections): Col d’Orcia, best known for their stunning Brunello di Montalcino, makes other wines. At first glance at the label, you might think this is their Rosso di Montalcino. It’s not. Also, don’t be put off by the 2014 vintage, which was, as the Italians themselves describe it, “difficult.” … Read more
Boscarelli, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Il Nocio 2016
($159, Empson USA): The 2016 Il Nocio is an extraordinary wine. Boscarelli is one of the top producers — some would say THE top producer — of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Il Nocio, from the vineyard of the same name, is their top wine. … Read more
Colle Santa Mustiola di Fabio Cenni, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese Poggio ai Chiari 2011
($80, Selezioni Varietali): This is my first encounter with this producer, but it certainly will not be my last given the quality of this wine. Their importer tells me Cenni’s focus is Sangiovese, with their 12 acres planted entirely with 28 clones of that variety. … Read more