($121): Tenuta Luce, originally a joint venture between wine icons Robert Mondavi and Vittorio Frescobaldi, is now solely owned by the Frescobaldi family. Located in Montalcino and though it does make a Brunello, Tenuta Luce is distinct from Castelgiocondo, another Frescobaldi estate. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy – Tuscany
Tenuta La Massa, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Giorgio Primo” 2019
($111): Giampaolo Motta named this flagship wine after his grandfather and son. With more structure and less flesh that the 2020 La Massa, the stellar 2019 Grigio Primo needs considerably more time in the bottle for its true grandeur to show. … Read more
Tenuta Calimaia, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($20): Frescobaldi, a name synonymous with quality in Tuscany, has established this estate in Montepulciano. It’s really a return to Montepulciano for them since Leonardo Di Niccolò Frescobaldi was the town’s mayor in 1390. The exquisite 2020, their second vintage, is, in a word, gorgeous, melding black fruit that borders on tarriness with minerals. … Read more
San Felice, Toscana (Tuscany, Italy) Pugnitello 2020
($46, Total Beverage Solution): Pugnitello, a grape whose name means “little fist” based on the appearance of the bunches, is a relative newcomer to Italian wine, having been studied and developed by San Felice in the 1980s. So, it is not surprising that their rendition should be outstanding. … Read more
Biondi-Santi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($89, Wilson Daniels): The label says Rosso, but the wine says Brunello. That’s Biondi-Santi for you. Firm, sleek and minerally, this mid-weight Rosso has more elegance and stature than many producers’ bottlings of Brunello. Fine tannins surround tightly coiled power and exquisite austerity. … Read more
Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($33): Frescobaldi, the iconic Tuscan producer whose homebase is Chianti Rùfina, has recently expanded into Chianti Classico with their Perano estate. Just as they make exceptional wine in Rùfina, they have done the same at Perano. As expected from a Riserva, their 2018 has more weight and depth than their straight Chianti Classico. … Read more
Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) Rialzi 2018
($52): Grapes for a Gran Selezione bottling, which sits above Riserva at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, must come the estate’s own property — no purchased grapes allowed. Perano’s comes from a single vineyard, Rialzi, located at about 500 meters above sea level, which is a real advantage in these days of climate change. … Read more
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Volte dell’Ornellaia” 2021
($33, Vintus): Sometimes described as the “third” wine of Ornellaia, Le Volte is and it isn’t because it addition to estate wine that did not make it into either Ornellaia or Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia, Le Volte contains grapes that have been purchased from other sources. … Read more
Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($33): Frescobaldi, the iconic Tuscan producer whose homebase is Chianti Rùfina, has recently expanded into Chianti Classico with their Perano estate. Just as they make exceptional wine in Rùfina, they have done the same at Perano. As expected from a Riserva, their 2018 has more weight and depth than their straight Chianti Classico. … Read more
Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) Rialzi 2018
($52): Grapes for a Gran Selezione bottling, which sits above Riserva at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, must come the estate’s own property — no purchased grapes allowed. Perano’s comes from a single vineyard, Rialzi, located at about 500 meters above sea level, which is a real advantage in these days of climate change. … Read more
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio alle Gazze” 2021
($73, Vintus): Sauvignon Blanc was among the initial plantings at Ornellaia and initially they made a wine exclusively from that variety. Over time, Viognier, Vermentino, and Verdicchio have been added and now the current blend includes those four in proportions that vary from year to year depending on the weather. … Read more
Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2021
($33, Frescobaldi): Though I have always been impressed by any of Frescobaldi’s Chianti Rufina — after all they are THE name in that appellation — I remember being disappointed when I tasted their first vintage of Chianti Classico a few years ago. … Read more
Campo alla Sughera, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Campo alla Sughera” 2019
($89): With an unusual blend of roughly 70 percent Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, Campo alla Sughera’s Super Tuscan is remarkably well-balanced. The unnecessarily heavy bottle predicts the weight of this 14.5 percent stated alcohol wine. That said, it retains suaveness and poise. … Read more
Tenuta Luce, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Lucente” 2020
($25, Vintus Wines): The stunning 2020 Lucente could be the red wine buy of the summer. This Merlot Sangiovese blend delivers a marvelous combination of black fruit and dark minerals wrapped in a suave, silky texture. Black fruit character is evident, but this is not a fruity wine. … Read more
Campo alla Sughera, Bolgheri Superiore DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Arnione” 2019
($78): Arnione, a blend of roughly 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon with equal parts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, is their Bolgheri flagship. As much as I liked their Adèo, Arnione is just, well, a much better wine. Here, minerals balance the lush black fruit and take center stage. … Read more
Campo alla Sughera, Bolgheri Rosso DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Adèo” 2021
($37): Founded in 1998 by the German Knauf family, Campo alla Sughera has become an estate to watch in Bolgheri. Their ravishing reds represent a variation on Bordeaux blends. Adèo, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, delivers bright and juicy red cherry notes supported by mild tannins. … Read more
Podere Sapaio, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Sapaio” 2019
($94, Soilair Selection): Podere Sapaio, founded in 1999, is making itself known among the Super Tuscan with their flagship wine, Sapaio. A blend of organically grown Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Petit Verdot (20%) and Cabernet Franc, the stylish Sapaio impresses with a plush, velvety texture that shouts, “I’m important.” … Read more
Fattoria le Pupille, Morellino di Scansano (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($19): Elisabetta Geppetti’s estate, Fattoria le Pupille, is one of the leading producers in the Morellino di Scansano, a DOCG located in southern Tuscany, near the coast. Though Sangiovese provides the base for Morellino, as it does in Chianti Classico, the wines from Morellino are typically richer than those from Chianti Classico because of the warmer climate. … Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana’s Ghiaie della Furba
In 1979, Ugo Conti Bonacossi, owner of Tenuta di Capezzana, the leading estate in Carmignano, created a unique Super Tuscan wine, Ghiaie della Furba (literally, pebbles along the Furba stream). It should come as no surprise that a grower in Carmignano should make a Super Tuscan because, after all, Carmignano, not Bolgheri, was the birthplace of the concept. … Read more
Capezzana, Vin Santo di Carmignano DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Riserva 2015
($90, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): The bottles were opened at least a dozen yards away, but the aromas of apricots and nuts stopped all conversation as people looked for the source of the wondrous aromas. Vin Santo is a curious wine, this one especially. … Read more
Capezzana, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Ugo Contini Bonacossi” 2018
($62, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): This youthful treasure is a single vineyard Sangiovese named after Ugo Contini Bonacossi, the force behind the modern Capezzana estate who sadly passed away in 2013. The production is small, fewer than 3,000 bottles a year, because only the best grapes from this vineyard that Ugo loved go into the wine. … Read more
Capezzana, Carmignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Trefiano” Riserva 2018
($66, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Capezzana produces their Trefiano Riserva, a blend of Sangiovese (80%) with equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo, only in the best years. The stunning 2018, a big wine, to be sure, is balanced by spicy, savory notes and an incredible freshness. … Read more
Castello di Ama, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Pinot Nero “Il Chiuso” 2019
($48): Castello di Ama is known for spectacular Chianti Classico. But Pinot Nero? Isn’t it too warm in Chianti Classico to grow Pinot Nero? Apparently not, judging from this energetic beauty. The expressive aromatics and savory notes suggest the Pinot Nero must be planted in a cool site. … Read more
Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($22): The 2020 vintage in Chianti Classico generally produced rich satisfying wines. Badia a Coltibuono’s certainly fits that mold with dark, but not black, cherry nuances. It has great concentration but more importantly, gorgeous balancing acidity that gives this mid-weight wine enormous energy. … Read more
Fattoria Le Masse, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($45): An electric tension between fruit and firmness energizes this mid-weight wine. Made entirely from Sangiovese, this elegant and sculpted Chianti Classico has a bit of everything, floral aromatics, a steady frame, and a suave texture. Black cherry-like notes add charm to the finish. … Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Rosso di Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Ghiaie della Furba” 2015
($60, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Ghiaie della Furba, a Super Tuscan blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah from Capezzana, Carmignano’s top producer, is a robust wine when young. Even at eight years of age, this tightly wound beauty reveals its glories slowly as it sits in the glass. … Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Carmignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Villa di Capezzana” 2016
($31, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Carmignano, Tuscany’s smallest DOCG, is unique because it requires the use of Cabernet, either Sauvignon or Franc, in the blend with Sangiovese. Capezzana makes the benchmark Carmignano. Their 2016, from a spectacular vintage and still widely available retail, is a great introduction to the DOCG. … Read more
Finger Lakes Riesling: Paul Hobbs Has Landed
Will Paul Hobbs be the Rocket that launches New York’s Finger Lakes region?
Every under-recognized fine wine region needs a high-profile producer to be a locomotive to pull it onto the world’s stage. With his new venture, Hillick and Hobbs, named after his parents, Joan Hillick and Edward Hobbs, Paul Hobbs just might do it for New York’s Finger Lakes.… Read more
Vini Franchetti Tenuta di Trinoro, Toscano Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Cupole” 2020
($35): Cupole is the second wine of Tenuta di Tinoro, a “Super Tuscan” that commands a three-digit price tag — and the first digit is not a one. Like the first wine, Cupole is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot that varies year to year to years depending on how the individual varieties fare during the growing season. … Read more
Fattoria Selvapiana, Chianti Rùfina Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Vigneto Bucerchiale 2015
($48, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Chianti Rùfina, along with Chianti Classico, is the best subzone of the greater Chianti denomination. Selvapiana is one of Rùfina’s top producers and Vigneto Bucerchiale is their top wine. So, this wine is a “no-brainer,” especially since it has seven years under its belt and has just hit its drinkable window. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Maremma Toscana DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Campo Maccione” 2021
($16, Taub Family Selections): To capture the crisp clean character of this wine, Rocca delle Macìe harvests the grapes early in the morning, when it is cool. Then, they are kept on dry ice until they reach the winery where a cold fermentation occurs in stainless tanks. … Read more
Changes in Chianti: A Boon or TMI?
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($25, Volio Imports): What a difference a few hills and a little elevation makes. Year in and year out, Cecchi’s Villa Cerna Chianti Classico Reserva is one of my favorites. The 2018 is no exception. A blend of Sangiovese (95%) and Colorino, there are no international influences of Cabernet, Merlot, or oak-aging. … Read more
Villa Rosa, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($48, Volio Imports): Gran Selezione is a new category of Chianti Classico that sits above Reserva, at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid. Without getting into the weeds regarding the regulations for Gran Selezione, suffice it to say it should be the producer’s best Chianti Classico. … Read more
Villa Rosa, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Ribaldoni” 2018
($15, Volio Imports): The 2018 Ribaldoni Chianti Classico comes from Villa Rosa’s youngest vines. Lighter than the similarly priced Primocolle from Villa Cerna, it displays the same seamless balance of bright juicy fruit, spice, and good depth. Not overdone, it is lively and direct, with just the right tannic structure, exactly what you would expect from Chianti Classico. … Read more
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Primocolle 2019
($15, Volio Imports): The Cecchi family, one of the top producers in Tuscany, have two separate and distinct estates in Chianti Classico, Villa Cerna and Villa Rosa. Unsurprisingly, the wines from the two estates are very different because of the diversity of soil, climate, exposure — in sum, the terroir — even over a short distance. … Read more
Cecchi, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Riserva di Famiglia” 2015
($32, Terlato Wines International): Cecchi’s Chianti Classico Riserva, unsurprisingly, is bigger and more powerful than their 2019 regular (annata) bottling. Weighing in at 14 percent stated alcohol, it has more power, yet retains elegance. The wood is still showing at this stage, but from my experience with their wines, it will become better integrated after another year or so in the bottle. … Read more
Cecchi, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Storia di Famiglia” 2019
($27, Terlato Wines International): This Chianti Classico shows why Cecchi is one of Tuscany’s top producers. Based in Castellina in Chianti, the heart of Chianti Classico region, Cecchi has fashioned a lovely, mid-weight wine that combines savory elements — earthy notes — with cherry-scented flavors. … Read more
San Felice, Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio Rosso” 2016
($70, Vision Wine and Spirits): Gran Selezione is a relatively new, not even a decade old, category of Chianti Classico. It sits at the pinnacle of the region’s quality pyramid, which now has the three levels: annata or regular bottling, Riserva, and finally Gran Selezione. … Read more
Campogiovanni, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2016
($63, Vision Wine and Spirits): San Felice, a top Chianti Classico producer, also owns the Campogiovanni estate in Montalcino. They produced a stunning Brunello in 2016. The San Felice’s wines always express power, but they manage to modulate it so that the terroir is not overwhelmed. … Read more
The 2017 Brunellos: Like Wagner’s Music-Not as Bad as It Sounds
Profile: Mazzei Castello di Fonterutoli, Toscana IGT “Siepi” 2019
Siepi, a single vineyard blend of roughly equal amounts of Sangiovese and Merlot, is a true Super Tuscan wine. The vineyard, believed to be one of the oldest in Italy, dates from the 15th century if not earlier, its existence having been noted in a document from 1435. … Read more
Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria/Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Black Label” 2020
($40, Montcalm Wine Importers): There us Vermentino, then there is Lunae Black Label Vermentino. I’ve always loved this wine and the 2020 is no exception. It has everything: richness, a saline-infused minerality, and extraordinary freshness. It has a seemingly never ending finish. … Read more
2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Don’t Miss Them
The great success of the 2016 vintage throughout Tuscany suggested that the just-released 2016 Brunello would be memorable. Is it ever! To my mind, it is, by far, the best vintage since 2010. I certainly prefer the 2016s in general to the more powerful and overdone Brunello from the much-hyped 2015 vintage. … Read more
Ornellaia, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Volte” dell’Ornellaia 2019
($26, Folio Fine Wine Partners): No one needs an introduction to Ornellaia, a Bordeaux-blend and one of Italy’s greatest wines. But some explanation about Le Volte is important since even Ornellaia’s website reveals few details of this wine. Ornellaia took a giant leap in quality in 1997 when they introduced Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia, a second wine, also a Bordeaux-blend. … Read more
Bertinga, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) 2016
($75, Massanois): Located in Gaiole in Chianti in the heart of the Chianti Classico region, Bertinga is a new venture. The 2016s are their first release. After tasting their wines, I have a feeling their success is not beginner’s luck. Their 50 or so acres of vineyards are planted exclusively with Sangiovese and Merlot. … Read more
Bertinga, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Volta di Bertinga” 2016
($169, Massanois): This 100 percent Merlot is equally expressive and explosive as Bertinga’s Punta di Adine, just in an entirely different way. While Punta displays red fruit qualities, Volta di Bertinga is all about black fruit complemented by tar-like minerality. It’s a wonderful red-black contrast. … Read more
Bertinga, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Punta di Adine” 2016
($119, Massanois): This gorgeous wine comes exclusively from Sangiovese planted in a six-acre vineyard in Gaiole in Chianti that sits at an altitude of about 1,800 feet. The elevation moderates the temperature, especially at night, which allows the grapes to retain more acidity. … Read more
Villa Vignamaggio, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Monna Lisa” 2017
($55, Montcalm Wine Importers): Gran Selezione is a relatively new quality category, aiming to represent the pinnacle of a producer’s Chianti Classico production. This gorgeous wine certainly achieves that distinction. It’s all the more impressive considering Villa Vignamaggio managed to produce such a stellar wine in 2017, a difficult year for Chianti Classico. … Read more
Villa Vignamaggio, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Terre di Prenzano” 2018
($25, Montcalm Wine Importers): Villa Vignamaggio’s 2018 Chianti Classico is textbook Chianti Classico and reminds us why that category is so popular. Made entirely from Sangiovese, this mid-weight wine delivers the ideal combination of dark fruit and savory nuances, all wrapped in a suave texture. … Read more