($40): For this zesty Chardonnay, Sweetzer purchased grapes from Presqu’ile Vineyard.  They aspire — and have achieved — a Chablis styled wine that is both slightly creamy and steely.  It’s a hard combination to master, but Sweetzer has.  The uplifting finish belies the 14.4 percent stated alcohol. … Read more

($32): This wine represents a dilemma for wine critics.  It’s not a style of Chardonnay that I like personally, but it is well made and will appeal to a broad range of consumers, especially those who prefer bold Chardonnay.  The wine making team used the usual techniques for amping-up the profile:  Ripe grapes translating to a 14.5 percent-stated alcohol, fermentation and aging in the barrel, and malolactic fermentation (which converts harsher malic acid to a creamier lactic acid). … Read more

($42): Norm Yost, owner of Flying Goat Cellars, was either crazy or a visionary when he was the first to make a sparkling wine in Sta. Rita Hills in 2005.  Now there are more than 30 producers who have followed him, so you can draw your own conclusions. … Read more

($42): Norman Yost, owner and winemaker of Flying Goat Cellars, acquired detailed knowledge of the vineyards of Santa Barbara County when he worked for Foley Estates, one of the region’s largest producers.  Now, making his own wine, he knows from whom to buy grapes. … Read more

($30): It’s worth keeping your eyes out for wines from this new small producer in the Sta. Rita Hills of Santa Barbara County.  Sweetzer, like many producers in the Sta. Rita Hills, buys grapes from growers as opposed to owning their own vineyards — a set-up that is similar to a small Burgundy négociant. … Read more

($60): In a word, thrilling.  “Mike” Grgich, the king of Chardonnay since it was he who made the Chardonnay that stunned the French and the world in the Judgment of Paris 1976 tasting, has done it again.  Rich and explosive, this wine dances on the palate without a trace of heaviness. … Read more

($48): Also reflecting its origins, the Russian River Valley bottling delivers more black fruit-like flavors rather than the red fruit of the Sonoma Coast.  In contrast to the cooler Sonoma Coast bottling, this one is fleshier with a hint of savory notes.… Read more

($66): Merry Edwards’ Klopp Ranch bottling highlights bright red fruit flavors with less emphasis on the savory component.  A succulent wine, it is balanced and pure with an alluring suppleness.  It strikes a gorgeous mid ground in terms of intensity.  I’m not sure that anyone, even Edwards herself, can explain precisely what it is about the vineyards that results in the different expressions of her wines. … Read more

($63): Merry Edwards’ Georganne bottling has more apparent tannic structure compared to her others from 2014.  It’s more brooding at this stage without the same velvety glossiness.  That said, there is an appealing earthy, savory aspect that grows on you as the wine sits in the glass. … Read more

($98): The grapes for Merry Edwards’ Cuvée August, named after her first grandchild and her most expensive Pinot Noir, come from the top part of the slope of the Meredith Estate.  A dazzling and explosive wine, its concentration almost borders on a “Pinot Syrah” style, but does not cross the line. … Read more

($60): The Flax Vineyard bottling bombards the palette — in a very nice way — with lovely aromatics and juicy dark red fruit.  It speaks directly to you.  Savory elements appear, almost reluctantly, but then persist through a long finish.  Similar to her other Pinot Noirs, the tannins are suave giving the wine a velvety texture.… Read more

($68): There are fewer savory elements in Merry Edwards’ Olivet Lane compared to the Coopersmith and Meredith, but the crystalline purity of the red fruit flavors is astounding.  The savory slightly mushroom-y nuances appear with time, with reinforces an important point when drinking (or tasting) her wines. … Read more

($66): Merry Edwards’ Coopersmith bottling, similar to the Meredith Estate, delivers refined black fruit flavors enrobed in suave tannins.  There’s also an alluring smoky or slightly toasted aspect to it.  It’s long and captivating.  Part of this wine’s excitement is that it is, indeed, different from the Meredith.… Read more

($63): The pick of an exceptional litter at this stage, Merry Edwards’ Meredith Estate Pinot Noir says wow!  It’s a wonderfully complex mixture of dark fruit and savory flavors.  Both glossy and chewy (in a nice way) its contrasts continue to captivate throughout a meal. … Read more

($34): Few people get excited about Sauvignon Blanc as they do about other varietal wines.  For those skeptics, it’s time to taste Merry Edwards’ version.  This is an exciting wine that defies easy categorization.  There’s the bite of Sauvignon Blanc, to be sure, but there’s a creaminess and suaveness that suggests a Bordeaux-like blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. … Read more

($45): A graceful blend of basically Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this salmon-hued rosé is both steely and fruity — and perfectly balanced.  It’s remarkably versatile, working deliciously as an after-work, “I’m glad to be home,” aperitif and equally well with simply grilled salmon. … Read more

($25): A delightful, well-priced Pinot Noir is hard to find, so I was especially pleased to sample this one.  Light-bodied with intriguing herbal earthy flavors and mild tannins, it’s perfect for current consumption with a veal chop or roast chicken with mushrooms. … Read more

($35): A bigger and riper version of their delightful — and easy to recommend — straight Monterey Pinot Noir, Carmel Road’s Panorama Vineyard bottling focuses more on the sweet fruity aspect of the grape. In the process, they lose delicacy and complexity than Pinot Noir offers. … Read more

($46): Though the current drumbeat in California is for restrained Chardonnay, it was Stony Hill, decades ago, in the 1950s, that basically invented the drum.  They’ve always made restrained, yet flavorful, cutting Chardonnays, the kind you savor.  The 2011, not their recent release, but still available at the retail level, shows how beautifully their wines develop. … Read more

($48): J. Lohr makes three Bordeaux-like Cuvées, “PAU,” “St. E” and “POM” inspired by the blend typical for those appellations, Pauillac, St. Estephe and Pomerol.   The 2013 Cuvée POM is a successful blend of primarily Merlot (84%) filled out by Malbec (8%) and equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. … Read more

($35): The team at Presqu’ile clearly knows what they are doing.  First, I tasted — and loved — their Chardonnay, reinforcing the idea that Santa Maria Valley is a good locale for that grape.  Then I tasted — and loved — their Sauvignon Blanc, so I figured they were talented white wine producers. … Read more

($38): Louis Martini is one of the great names — a true icon — of California wine.  Their wines continue to enhance the Martini reputation even after the winery was acquired by Gallo, a company that had the good sense to maintain the winery’s integrity and not turn it into brand. … Read more

($54): There’s Merlot…and then there’s the real Merlot.  Put this 2013 Duckhorn Merlot in the latter category.  This should not be surprising.  After all, it was Duckhorn with their Three Palms Merlot that showed the heights that this varietal could achieve in Napa. … Read more

($34): Though distinctly different from Martini’s Napa Valley bottling, it is equally appealing, perhaps because it is so different.  This Cabernet is more floral and “pretty,” less mineraly and lacking the black olive note of its neighbor from Napa.  It still manages to combine a mouth-watering savory component to mixture of fruit notes. … Read more

($42):  Presqu’ile seemingly does everything right.  Take this Pinot Noir, for example–a lacey combination of red fruit flavors and spice.  It’s not overdone in a “Pinot Syrah” style, but rather captures the subtleties of the variety as it dances across the palate.… Read more

($48):  Presqu’ile buys grapes from the Phelan family who owns the Steiner Creek Vineyard, showing, once again, that consumers should not automatically shun wines that are not “estate.”  This Pinot Noir is a notch–or two–above their very good Santa Maria bottling with more engaging aromatics and greater depth. … Read more

($186):  Stunning is a word that leaps to mind after tasting this wine.  Weighing in at less than 14 percent stated-alcohol, it dazzles with its elegance, harmony and length, not shear power.  Though it has plenty of that, too.  Paradoxically, almost, its power is restrained and not flamboyant. … Read more

($95): Duckhorn Vineyards, which was the first to show us the potential of Merlot from Napa with their Three Palms bottling of it, now shows us the diversity of sites in Napa Valley with a series of single vineyard bottlings. Patzimaro Vineyard, located at the base of Spring Mountain in the St.… Read more

($95): The expected power befitting a “mountain wine” is front and center.  But the surprise is its incredible elegance for its size and weight.  Alluring mineral-y earthy flavors balance the dark black fruit notes in this very polished wine.  Succulent and long, it’s paradoxically powerful, yet subtle — quite an amazing combination. … Read more

($25): La Crema’s Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir emphasizes the red cherry fruit nature of the variety.  To their credit, the fruit flavors are fresh, not jammy, and not overdone.  A whiff of savory notes appears in the background.  Appealing tart cherry notes are apparent in the finish in keeping with the wine’s fruity profile. … Read more

($22): I have been impressed by the Chardonnay coming from Presqu’ile and now see that they do equally well with Sauvignon Blanc.  This one, from their vineyard in Santa Maria Valley, is, in a word, balanced. Pleasantly herbal, as opposed to grassy, there’s an ever so slight roundness to its texture, as though the coarse edges of Sauvignon Blanc have been sanded. … Read more

($17): Route Stock has managed to achieve harmonious balance in this Sauvignon Blanc.  Without losing its distinctive cutting edginess, a subtle creaminess offsets the potential shrillness characteristic of the varietal.  Nicely aggressive, delivering just the right about of pungency, it has a finish and delivers a complexity often lacking in Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more

($30): Duckhorn Vineyards continues to impress despite their long and stellar track record.  Perhaps best known for their powerful, yet elegant, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, they also make noteworthy Chardonnay and, judging from this example, Sauvignon Blanc.  They also know what they can — and cannot — do in Napa. … Read more

($60): One of the joys of tasting Cabernet Sauvignon from J. Lohr is that they show the diversity of California terroir.  Tasted side-by-side, this one from a single vineyard in St. Helena in Napa Valley and their “Hilltop” Cabernet Sauvignon ($35, 89 points) from their vineyards in Paso Robles make a fascinating comparison. … Read more

($50): The big, heavy, oversized bottle makes me not want to like this wine.  But the first whiff — a combination of red fruits and earthiness — wins you over easily.  It delivers cherry-like fruit and minerals woven into a fine texture. … Read more

($32): Migration, initially the second label of Decoy, Duckhorn’s Pinot Noir-focused outpost in Anderson Valley, now has its own home in Sonoma County.  It’s a first wine in its own right.  And though the focus was — and is — on Pinot Noir, it turns out, at least judging from this wine, they do a fine job with Chardonnay. … Read more

($31): When it comes to winemaking, Grgich Hills Estate can do no wrong.  Of course it excels with Chardonnay.  Miljenko “Mike” Grgich made the Chardonnay when he was at Chateau Montelena that instantly put California wine on the map when judges — French no less — placed it first, besting prestigious white Burgundies in a blind tasting, the so-called Judgment of Paris, forty years ago. … Read more

($28): Le Cigare Blanc, the white counterpart of Bonny Doon’s Cigare Volant, which emulates the red wine of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is a typical Rhône blend: Roussanne (55%), Grenache Blanc (26%), and Picpoul Blanc.  It’s a lovely interpretation of a white Rhône with stone fruit richness and sufficient balancing acidity to keep it interesting, but not so much as to make your mouth pucker. … Read more

($69): This wine shows the beauty of Napa Valley Cabernet.  Not bigger, but just a more muscular style of Cabernet Sauvignon than is the norm, the 2013 Grgich Hills Estate Cabernet Sauvignon has extraordinary finesse.  It’s truly an iron fist in a velvet glove. … Read more

($55): Jordan consistently makes a beautifully graceful Cabernet Sauvignon.  The 2012 is even more so, full-flavored, yet elegant with a suave texture.  Although a mouth-filling wine, it is not heavy.  It impresses with its elegance and complexity, not brute force.  Layers of red and black fruit flavors intermingle with herbal earthy notes. … Read more

($68): One of the things I love about Migration’s Pinot Noirs is that their vineyard designation is not a marketing tool, but rather reflects where the grapes are grown.  Take this one from the Bien Nacido Vineyard.  Riper fruit flavors dominate with fewer savory elements compared to their 2013 Dutton Ranch bottling (previously reviewed). … Read more

($60): One of the things I love about Patz & Hall is that they specialize in making Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from individual vineyards, highlighting the differences among them.  With this approach, they’ve shown that the French don’t have a monopoly on terroir. … Read more

($120): In 1997 when Duckhorn, a top Napa Valley producer that focuses on Merlot, embarked on producing Pinot Noir, they wisely sought vineyards in an area more conducive to that variety.  Broadly speaking, Merlot does best in a warm climate, whereas Pinot Noir thrives in cooler climes. … Read more

($27): Sangiacomo Vineyard is one of the most acclaimed growing sites in California.  Located in the Carneros region, where cooling air from the Pacific Ocean flows in via the San Francisco and San Pablo Bays, it is an ideal locale for edgy Chardonnay. … Read more

($18): Dry Creek Vineyard consistently makes an array of easy-to-recommend fine wines.  This Sauvignon Blanc is one of them.  The winemaking team incorporated a touch of Sauvignon Gris and Sauvignon Musqué, two “relatives” of Sauvignon Blanc, into the blend.  Those varieties add a bit of depth and weight that balances the grassiness and edginess of Sauvignon Blanc.  … Read more

($25): This could be the best-value California Pinot Noir on the market.  Full disclosure:  I’ve not tasted them all, but I’m waiting to find a better one at the price.  It has the alluring ying-yang-like savory-fruity combination.  The emphasis is on the savory earthy nuances that Pinot Noir can transmit when it’s not overdone. … Read more

($40): A hint of savory notes offset the bright cherry-like flavors in this generous wine.  A lush suave texture is engaging and makes it ideal for current consumption.  Those who prefer a hint of ripe fruit bordering on sweetness in the finish will embrace this Pinot Noir. … Read more

($23): Though a fruit-focused Pinot Noir, it delivers a hint of leafy flavors that keeps it in balance.  Mild tannins lend support without intruding on its plush texture so it would be a good choice for drinking this summer.  It finishes bright, not sweet, which is another plus. … Read more

($55): Albatross Ridge, a producer that has, sadly, been under my radar, hit the bull’s eye with this Pinot Noir.  It’s a near magical combination of smoky savory notes with ripe black fruit nuances.  Its “not just fruit” character makes it seductive and charming — and keeps you coming back for more. … Read more