Category Archives: France – Burgundy

Jean Pascal et Fils, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) “Les Enseignères” 2019

($56, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):  This lieu-dit, entitled only to a village appellation, lies across the road, but downhill from the Grand Cru Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet.  Even in Jean Pascal’s talented hands, this village wine is not in the Grand Cru category, but it is more impressive than many producers’ premier cru — and at a far more attractive price. Read more

Domaine Paul Pernot et ses Fils, Bourgogne Blanc Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) 2019

($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):  Domaine Paul Pernot, one of the top producers in Puligny-Montrachet, opts to use the new appellation, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, for this wine that they formerly labeled as Bourgogne Blanc.  The new appellation requires that the grapes come exclusively from the Côte d’Or, the heart of Burgundy.Read more

Gilles Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Duresses Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection 2018

($43):  With prices of Burgundy having gone through the roof, it’s a delight to find one that’s affordable, at least by Burgundy standards.  As I’ve long maintained, villages off the beaten path, such as Auxey-Duresses which sits behind Meursault, and talented producers who, for whatever reason, have never gotten the praise they deserve, like Gilles Lafouge, is the combination consumers should seek out. Read more

Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France) Chardonnay Musqué Les Favières 2018

($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):  Domaine Bart, one of my favorite producers, flies under the radar.  Even their stunning Bonnes Mares fails to get the accolades it deserves.  They are best known for their array of reds from Marsannay, a village whose wines may lack cachet, but in the right hands deliver spectacular quality at an easy-on-the wallet price. Read more

Domaine Antonin Guyon, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) “La Justice” 2017

($85, Taub Family Selections):  Domaine Antonin Guyon is a name you can trust.  They make incredibly consistent wines from Grand Cru to their village wines, such as this one, that lies on the wrong side of the road.  La Justice is one of the rare vineyards that lies on the eastern side of the RN974, the main north-south road in Burgundy, to be awarded a village designation instead of just a regional appellation. Read more

Domaine Antonin Guyon, Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy, France) “Les Cras” 2017

($95, Taub Family Selections):  Similar to many vineyards in Burgundy, Les Cras isn’t contained within a single appellation.  Part of this vineyard is classified as Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru, while another part is only entitled to a village Chambolle-Musigny appellation.  The portion of Les Cras that carries the village appellation lies above the better situated — middle of the slope — portion that is classified as 1er Cru. Read more

Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, Saint-Aubin (Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France) 2017

($30):  Saint-Aubin, lying behind the famous white wine villages of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet with their Grand Cru vineyards, is off the beaten tract, which means consumers can find value.   Prices for Premier Cru Saint-Aubin have climbed dramatically as consumers have caught on, but bargains still exist for village wines, even from a top producer like Langoureau. Read more

In Praise of Regional and Village Burgundy…or, Where to Find Value

Simple economics explains why the wine from Burgundy, or Bourgogne, as the French would now like us to call it, has become expensive.  Really expensive.  French wine regulations limit what can be planted where (a.k.a. the supply) and demand has increased as new markets around the world, such as China, Japan, and Russia, to name just three, discover Burgundy’s allure. … Read more

Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France) “Les Finottes” 2018

($30):  Domaine Bart is a star producer in Marsannay.  This house makes splendid Grand Crus, such as Bonnes-Mares and Chambertin Clos de Bèze that routinely sell for $200+ a bottle upon release.  Their skill is also found in a bevy of single-vineyard wines from the village of Marsannay, the northern most village of the Côte de Nuits. Read more

Domaine Jean et Giles Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses (Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France) 2017

($37):   One formula for Burgundy bargains is to find a top producer who lives and has vineyards in an out-of-the-way place.  Domaine Lafouge’s Auxey-Duresses (“oh say doo ress”) fits that formula. Auxey-Duresses, like Monthélie, which it abuts, is situated in the prestigious Côte d’Or, but most of its vineyards lie even further west. Read more

Glory in Givry: Domaine du Cellier Aux Moines

As in its more famous neighbouring region, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay reign supreme and, with rare exceptions, are the mandated grapes for the wines.

Major appellations in the Côte Chalonnaise, moving from north to south, include Rully and Mercurey, which produce both red and white wine, Givry, which produces mostly (80%) red wine, and Montagny, which produces white wine exclusively.… Read more

Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry, 1er Cru Clos du Celliers aux Moines, 2016

Drinking Window: 2025 – 2030
The Pascals introduced organic farming in 2016, which may explain its success in that tricky vintage. The only problem: it follows the 2015. Captivating savoury notes—that not-just-fruit character—are apparent and mingle with dark cherry-like fruitiness. Suave texture, now a hallmark of the domaine since 2015, adds to its appeal.
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Domaine du Pavillon (Bichot), Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2018

($260):  Bichot owns about three acres in the Les Languettes lieu-dit, a sunny southeast facing part of the Corton-Charlemagne vineyard.  From it, they have made a glorious wine in 2018, showing nuances of spiced pineapple offset by a crispy edginess.  Its stature is not in overall weight or power, rather in its layered complexity and elegance. Read more

Domaine Long-Depaquit (Bichot), Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) “Les Clos” 2018

($112):  With holdings totaling 150 acres of vines, almost half of which are located in Premier or Grand Cru vineyards, Bichot’s Long-Depaquit is one of the most notable estates in Chablis.  They own roughly ten percent of all Grand Cru acreage in Chablis, including the entirety of La Moutonne, an anomalous site of almost 6-acres spanning two Grand Cru vineyards, Vaudésir and Preuses. Read more