($80, Louis Latour USA): Chablis was more successful than the Côte d’Or for white wines in 2012. Indeed, the 2012 vintage produced excellent Chablis. The Simonnet Febrve style of tightly wound, mineraly-infused, bracing wines is ideally suited to this vintage, which produced ripe grapes.… Read more
Category Archives: France – Burgundy
Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Laforêt” 2012
($14, Dreyfus Ashby & Co.): The firm of Joseph Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s best, is still family owned and operated. Though they own vineyards extensively throughout the region, they also have a talent for buying grapes and wines from other growers, blending them as needed, and bottling them under the Drouhin name. … Read more
René Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Les Longeroies Vieilles Vignes 2012
($31, Kermit Lynch): Marsannay, sitting at the northern most boundary of the Côte d’Or, is another great appellation for authentic, well-priced Burgundy. Since Marsannay is not a prestigious appellation, many of its red wines are ready to drink soon after release. … Read more
Domaine Charles Audoin, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Les Longeroies 2011
($36, Martine’s Wines): Marsannay received appellation status only in 1987. Prior to that date, the wines were sold under the broader Bourgogne appellation. Growers in Marsannay have submitted an application to the French authorities to classify some vineyards as Premier Cru. … Read more
Domaine Bertagna, Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) “Les Dames Huguettes” 2012
($29): One way to find well-priced Burgundy (no, that’s not an oxymoron) is to choose a down-market appellation from a top-notch producer, such as Domaine Bertagna. Although Les Dames Huguettes lies in the appellation of Hautes Côtes de Nuits, just west (up and behind) the escarpment of the Côte d’Or, the vineyard itself still lies within the boundaries of the village of Nuits St Georges. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) “La Grande Roche” 2012
($25, Louis Latour USA): Montagny is an often-overlooked village in the Côte Chalonnaise that is home to some excellent white Burgundies, such as this one. Latour has combined the ripeness of the vintage with a steely backbone that keeps it fresh and lively throughout a meal. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2013
($16, Kobrand Wine And Spirits):
It’s no surprise that Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, makes a fine “simple” Bourgogne Blanc. A blend of Chardonnay grown in the Côte d’Or, the Côte Chalonnaise and the Macon, it’s not so simple and is a great value.… Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2012
($24, Louis Latour USA): Marsannay, now practically a suburb of Dijon, is the northern most outpost of the Côte de Nuits. With no classified vineyards — but deserving of some — the village offers the best value for red wines from the entire Côte d’Or, in my opinion. … Read more
Domaine Marc Morey, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2012
($25, Robert Katcher Selections): This wine caught my attention at Island Creek Oyster Bar (an excellent Boston restaurant with an eclectic wine list) because I was unaware that Marc Morey, a top producer based in Chassagne-Montrachet, owned vineyards in Rully (a lesser known village in the Côte Chalonnaise). … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Truffières 2012
($95, Louis Latour USA): Despite the concentration of Latour’s whites in 2012, the wines still reflect their origins. This wine has a particularly stony edginess that screams Puligny-Montrachet and distinguishes it from the slightly creamier Meursault. Like Latour’s Meursault Premier Cru, Les Truffières has a welcome vibrancy that balances its riches, amplifies its finish and puts its refinement into sharp relief. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Meursault Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Château de Blagny 2012
($70, Louis Latour USA): Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top-notch producers, hit a bull’s eye with their 2012s. The vintage produced concentrated wines and capturing acidity, especially for the whites, was a challenge. Latour succeeded brilliantly. This Meursault has a beautiful, yet not overripe, density for a premier cru in 2012. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2012
($155, Louis Latour USA): Latour, the largest owner of Corton-Charlemagne, makes sensational wines year in and year out from that vineyard. Indeed, in my opinion, there is no better producer of Corton-Charlemagne. As expected from Grand Cru white Burgundy, Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne bottlings evolve gracefully and improve over a decade or two. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Chevalier-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Les Demoiselles 2012
($440, Louis Latour USA): Chevalier-Montrachet, a 19-acre vineyard, sits just above Montrachet on a more rocky terrain with poorer soil. In my mind, it is home to Burgundy’s most exciting white wine, marrying the richness of Montrachet with a firmness reflected by the stony site. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton (Burgundy, France) Château Corton Grancey 2012
($150, Louis Latour USA): With their 67+ acres of Grand Cru vineyards, Louis Latour owns more of those precious plots than anyone else in Burgundy. They are best known for their stellar wines from the Grand Cru vineyard of Corton — both red and white. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vignes Franches 2012
($80, Louis Latour USA): Consumers tend to forget that the top-tier négociants, such as Louis Latour, make wine from grapes grown in vineyards they own in addition to buying grapes from others. Indeed, Latour, one of the largest vineyard owners in Burgundy, owns a substantial parcel in Vignes Franches, one of the best premier cru vineyards in Beaune. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chaillots 2012
($80, Louis Latour USA): Louis Latour, top-notch négociant established in 1797, is based in the Aloxe-Corton. Since their founding, have been able to purchase prime plots there, so it’s not surprising that they make excellent wines from vineyards in that village. … Read more
Jean-Paul Brun, Beaujolais Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2013
($16, Louis Dressner Selections): Yes, it’s the Beaujolais Nouveau time of the year, and yes, 95% of Beaujolais is red, but that’s all the more reason to draw peoples’ attention to this wonderful Chardonnay-based wine. Jean-Paul Brun under the label of Terres Dorées redefines (red) Beaujolais. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Savigny-lès-Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) La Dominode 2011
($45, Kobrand): Jadot’s Savigny-lès-Beaune and their Pernand-Vergelesses lend powerful support to France’s focus on terroir. These two wines, from comparably prestigious premier cru sites less than a few miles apart, were made from the same grape — Pinot Noir — by the same winemaking team. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Croix de Pierre 2011
($39, Kobrand): The 2011 vintage for red Burgundies will always be overshadowed on a vintage by the rich 2009 and racy 2010. But the chief advantage of the 2011s is that they are deliciously forward wines. Indeed, they will give more pleasure for drinking now than either the 2009s or 2010s. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Baudes 2011
($100, Kobrand): The seductive combination of suaveness and depth is what accounts for the popularity, and hence, price of wines from Chambolle-Musigny. Jadot’s 2011 Chambolle-Musigny Les Baudes has all the mineraly underpinning and glossy patina you’d expect from a premier cru from this esteemed village. … Read more
Château du Moulin-À-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($38, Wilson Daniels): Technically from Beaujolais, the wines from Moulin-à-Vent stand apart and have more in common with the rest of Burgundy because of the granitic soil of the appellation. This is a broad shouldered robust Moulin-à-Vent, reflective of the warmth and ideal growing conditions of the vintage. … Read more
Château du Moulin-À-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2010
($38, Wilson Daniels): Similar to their 2009, Château du Moulin-À-Vent’s 2010 Moulin-à-Vent reflects the vintage’s cooler growing season. Fresher and more lively than their 2009, the 2010 has an uplifting sour cherry-like finish that begs for another sip. Still with the granitic edge and firm — not hard — tannins expected from top-notch Moulin-à-Vent, it’s more linear and less opulent compared to the 2009. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Viré-Clessé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2010
($18, Louis Latour USA): Viré-Clessé, a small, 500-acre appellation created only in 1998, was carved out of the Mâcon-Villages appellation because the wines from Viré and Clessé (along with a couple of other towns) had considerably more potential. Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, has realized that potential with their 2010 Viré-Clessé. … Read more
Château Moulin-À-Vent, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($42, Wilson Daniels): Though Château Moulin-À-Vent focuses on their red wines, they also have old Chardonnay-planted vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé. Their Vieilles Vignes bottling conveys the stony character of Pouilly-Fuissé. Tightly wound at this stage, I would give it a few years before pulling the cork even though it’s from the 2012 vintage, one known for lower-acid white wines, because there’s no lack of structure here — the old vines speaking, I’m sure.… Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2012
($21, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Saint-Véran, a small appellation in the southern Mâconnais, has the potential to produce wines that are a touch more concentrated than those from the broader Mâcon-Villages appellation. The ripeness in this wine comes from both the appellation and the vintage. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2013
($30, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Pouilly-Fuissé, the best appellation in the Mâconnais region of Burgundy, has such a following in the US that producers can bulk up yields or otherwise cut corners on quality. Drouhin does not. The first sip conveys the refinement that separates this appellation from the rest of the Mâconnais. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2013
($13, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The Mâcon-Villages regional category of Burgundy is my go-to area for well-priced Chardonnay-based wines. Sadly, the overall quality of Mâcon-Villages is highly variable. That’s why it’s important to find ones from top-notch producers, such as Drouhin, a leading Burgundy négociant. … Read more
Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy) “Couvent des Thorins” 2012
($28, Wilson Daniels): Ever since the Parinet family purchased this iconic property in 2009, they have been making marvelous wine. They focus solely on wine from Moulin-à-Vent, one of the top crus of Beaujolais. Moulin-à-Vent is home to well-structured rich wines that often need years of bottle age — these wines are as far away from insipidly fruity Beaujolais-Nouveau as you can get. … Read more
Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy) Clos des Londres 2009
($100, Wilson Daniels): Yes, you read the price correctly — $100 for a bottle of Beaujolais. But to associate this wine with conventional image of Beaujolais — a fruity easy-to-drink wine — would be a terrible mistake. The wines from Moulin-à-Vent, though a village in the Beaujolais region, rightly stand apart from that region and carry their own appellation. … Read more
René Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) “Le Clos” 2010
($30, Sherbrooke Cellars Selection): Marsannay, the northern most appellation of the Côte d’Or and practically a suburb of Dijon, is one of the last outposts of the “golden slope” where the consumer can find authentic Burgundy at reasonable prices. Most Marsannay is red, but 15 percent of the vineyards are planted to Chardonnay, making it one of the rare white wines from the Côtes de Nuits. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Corton Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2011
($120, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Jadot’s Corton Charlemagne comes from its vineyard on the well-positioned southeastern facing Pougets plot on the Corton hill. I was unenthusiastic about the 2011, a wine I usually love, when I tasted it from barrel in Jadot’s cellars because I thought it lacked energy and verve. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2012
($22, Dreyfus Ashby & Co): Warmer years like 2012 or 2009 benefit Burgundy appellations, such as Rully, in the Côte Chalonnaise whose wines can often come across as lean in cooler vintages. Drouhin’s 2012 Rully has plenty of ripe juicy red fruit flavors to balance the stony firmness you’d expect from the wines of this appellation. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roi 2010
($50): The Château de Chamirey, one of the finest producers in Mercurey, owns about one-third of Clos du Roi, a 30-acre premier cru vineyard. They’ve divided their 10-acres into four distinct plots identified by different soils, which produce Pinot Noir that ripens at slightly different times. … Read more
Domaine de Suremain, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2012
($30): Domaine de Suremain is a top producer in Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise where authentic Burgundy can be found at reasonable prices. The 2012 vintage was especially kind in there because it gave the wines a touch extra ripeness that balances the characteristic firmness of the region. … Read more
Domaine Tollot-Beaut, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) Pièce du Chapitre 2009
($42): None of the 375 acres of vineyards in Chorey-lès-Beaune, a small village just north of Beaune (lès means near), are classified as premier cru because they lie on the flat land as opposed to the better situated sites on the slope. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Ruelles 2011
($44): Château de Chamirey is one of the top producers in Mercurey, probably the best village in the Côte Chalonnaise for red wine. You can’t really go wrong with any of their wines. Les Ruelles, a premier cru vineyard owned exclusively by Château de Chamirey, is especially attractive in 2011. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2012
($16, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): St. Véran, an appellation nestled between Mâcon-Villages and Pouilly-Fuissé in prestige is often a fine value, offering a more sophisticated wine than the former at a price lower than the latter. Jadot’s 2012 is just that. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2012
($13, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): The 2012 vintage produced ripe white Burgundies, especially good news for “lesser” appellations, such as Mâcon-Villages, whose wines benefit from a touch more ripeness. Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, captured sufficient acidity to balance the ripe apple-like flavors. … Read more
Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2012
($80, Henriot, Inc.): Vaudésir is always among the top two vineyards in any ranking of Chablis Grand Cru (Les Clos is the other). And Domaine William Fevre is one of Chablis’ consistently finest producers. So it’s not surprising that this is a stunningly stellar wine. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2012
($25, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Chablis remains one of, if not the best, values for white wine. Always made exclusively from Chardonnay, Chablis, when produced by dedicated growers such as Christian Moreau, delivers a unique profile of flintiness and verve, even at this lower end of the prestige ladder. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Preuses 2012
($65, Louis Latour USA): Simonnet-Febvre is one of the top producers in Chablis. They eschew oak aging preferring to focus on the bracing minerality unique to the Chablis region, which gives their wines a lean, racy edginess. The 2012 vintage was especially well suited to their style because it delivered fully ripe grapes with slightly lower apparent acidity, which meant that some producers’ wines lacked the usual verve of Chablis. … Read more
Jean Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($26): Jean Marc Brocard, always one of my favorite Chablis producers, made a stunning array of wines in 2012. This one, from old vines, whose average age is 68 years, is one of the best village Chablis I’ve ever had. With wonderful intensity–but no heaviness–and balance, it has penetration, energy and extraordinary length, especially for a village wine. … Read more
Jean Paul Brun, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Brun’s Beaujolais, bottled under the Terres Dorées label, redefine that appellation. The vast majority of Beaujolais — I’m not speaking of Beaujolais-Village and certainly not the cru — are nothing more than alcoholic grape juice. But Brun’s is real wine filled with satisfying mix of fruitiness and herbal/spicy elements. … Read more
Maison Alex Gambal, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) “Grand Picotins” 2012
($50, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill): Savigny-lès-Beaune, a small village just north of Beaune, is a good source for authentic Burgundy. Alex Gambal, an American who is one of Burgundy’s rising stars, makes elegant and refined wines under the guidance of his winemaker, Geraldine Godot. … Read more
Maison Alex Gambal, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2012
($45, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill): Chorey-lès-Beaune, like Savigny-lès-Beaune, is another good source of reasonably — for Burgundy — priced wines. The wines from Chorey tend to be a touch more robust than those from Savigny. Gambal’s Chorey-lès-Beaune conveys more black fruit than red and has an engaging immediate impact, without sacrificing any of what has become the purity and elegance that marks Geraldine Godot’s winemaking. … Read more
Domaine Lignier-Michelot, Bourgogne Rouge (France) 2012
($27, Frederick Wildman & Sons): The 2012 vintage in Burgundy is good news/bad news. The good news is that, in general, the reds were excellent. The bad news is that the crop was decreased markedly by bad weather, which means much higher prices. … Read more
Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaulorent 2012
($60, Henriot, Inc.): The Vaulorent vineyard is the only premier cru vineyard that sits on the so-called Grand Cru hill of Chablis and is adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyards. Wines from this vineyard are frequently sold under the more recognized vineyard name, Fourchaume. … Read more
Jean Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Sainte Claire” 2012
($20): Borcard hit a bull’s eye with their Chablis in 2012, a relatively riper year. They harvested a bit early and captured gorgeous mouth-watering acidity in their entire line of wines. Their village Chablis, dubbed Sainte Claire, is an extraordinary value given the complexity and verve it delivers. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Pouilly Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2012
($27, Dreyfus Ashby & Co): Pouilly Fuissé lacks the respect the appellation deserves. Sure, there’s lots of mediocre wine masquerading under the popular Pouilly Fuissé label. But one taste of Drouhin’s shows why this category is so popular. Drouhin’s 2012 is mineraly, lemony and stony. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “La Chanfleure” 2011
($22, Louis Latour USA): Chablis remains one of the best bargains for white Burgundy and this one from Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best producers, should be snapped up. This village Chablis — Chanfleure is the name of the pipette used to extract wine from a barrel for tasting — is clean and crisp with underlying invigorating minerality and a zesty lemony finish. … Read more