Category Archives: Reviews

Laurel Glen Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Counterpoint” 2011

($30): Patrick Campbell, who founded Laurel Glen Vineyard, one of Sonoma’s iconic wineries, in 1977, sold it to Bettina Sichel in 2011, who brought in David Ramey as consulting winemaker.  Their 2011 Counterpoint, their second label, is a great success.  Made for earlier drinking compared to their first label, it delivers a seamless combination of dark fruit, with glimmers of black olives and spice. … Read more

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc “Essence” 2012

($50): As impressive as Grgich’s Fumé Blanc-labeled Sauvignon Blanc is, this one, labeled Essence, a selection of their best lots, is even better.  What’s amazing is that Grgich has amplified all the components of their regular (though it’s not at all a “regular” wine) Sauvignon Blanc bottling while maintaining its impeccable balance.  … Read more

Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2012

($21, Negociants USA): The cooling maritime influences from the Indian and Southern Oceans explain why Western Australian wines differ from those of South Australia, the country’s major wine producing state.  The cooler growing season allows grapes more time to ripen and develop complex flavors resulting in wines with great refinement, as exemplified by Vasse Felix’s stunning 2012 Chardonnay.  … Read more

Redbank, Victoria (Australia) Chardonnay “The Long Paddock” 2011

($15, Negociants USA): The conventional wisdom is that Australia Chardonnays are ripe, big and in your face.  Well, it turns out that conventional wisdom is wrong in this case (and in many others when it comes to Australian wine).  Victoria’s relatively cool climate compared to most of Australian grape growing areas is readily apparent in this Chardonnay and explains the wine’s alluring and captivating delicacy and enticing creaminess. … Read more

Jacquart, Champagne (France) “Cuvée Mosaïque” Brut NV

($36, JAD Imports): Jacquart, a small Champagne house, makes a stylish array of Champagne.  This, their non-vintage Brut, dubbed Cuvée Mosaïque, delivers a lush creaminess and a hint of baked apple. A firm backbone keeps this polished bubbly in balance.  Of course, it’s ideal as a stand-alone drink–and a very fine one at that — but it also reminds us that Champagne is great with a variety of dishes. … Read more

Deutz, Champagne (France) Brut NV

($44, Adrian Chalk Selections): Deutz, an under-recognized house, makes consistently lovely Champagne that are pleasantly powerful — a substantial amount of Pinot Noir speaking — while retaining elegance.  This one, their non-vintage Brut, has an appealing roundness and mouth-filling quality. Their mid-weight style makes it easy to sip as an aperitif or to pair with a simply grilled white fish, such as sea bass.… Read more

Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Chapelle 2011

($33, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Lafouge is a star producer in Auxey-Duresses, an off the beat track village that is becoming better known as a place to find high quality reasonably priced Burgundy.  Good concentration, charming cherry-like note and a balancing savory finish makes this is an easy wine to recommend for current consumption with a roast chicken.… Read more

Domaine Jobard, Rully (Burgundy, France) “Montagne la Folie” 2011

($27, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Domaine Jobard is a small domaine worth watching because fine winemaking runs in the family.  Laurence Jobard, mother of Claudie, the current winemaker, was the winemaker at Maison Joseph Drouhin for 30 years.  The stature of this Rully, a village wine, comes from the old vines — their average age is 40-45 years. … Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica Gold” 2012

($30): The 2012 Eroica Gold, the inaugural vintage for this super wine, may explain the exceptional quality of the 2012 Eroica.  If I had to guess, the winemaking team compulsively selected grapes — ones with even a hint of extra ripeness went into the Gold Eroica keeping the 2012 Eroica even brighter and more vibrant than usual. … Read more

J Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Brut Rosé NV

($38): Judy Jordan founded J Vineyards and Winery in 1986 and has been making stunning sparkling wines every since.  Its grapefruit-tinged nuances impart a pleasantly cutting edginess.  This fresh and floral style of rosé works well as an invigorating aperitif or as an accompaniment to smoked salmon or scallops in a decadent cream sauce.… Read more

Domaine François Lamarche, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2011

($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Considering that they are the sole owners of the Grand Cru vineyard, La Grande Rue (one of the most expensive pieces of real estate in all of Burgundy since it’s bordered by La Tache, La Romanée, La Romanée-Conti, and Romanée Saint-Vivant), Domaine François Lamarche is one of the most under-rated Burgundy producers. … Read more

Domaine Lamarche, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) 2011

($32, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The Hautes-Côtes is less well-situated land to the west and above the major villages of the Côte d’Or.  Wines from talented producers, such as Domaine Lamarche, represent value-packed Burgundy.  Lamarche’s nicely concentrated 2011 is quite fragrant and surprisingly elegant and glossy for a wine from this appellation.… Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica” 2012

($22): In 1999, Dr. Ernst Loosen, a leading producer in the Mosel (the ancestral home of the Riesling grape) and Chateau Ste Michelle embarked on a collaboration to produce world class Riesling in Washington’s Columbia Valley.  The collaboration made sense since Chateau Ste Michelle was among the first to plant Riesling in Washington and the Dr.… Read more

Laetitia, Arroyo Grande Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Estate 2012

($25):  Laetitia could be considered a pioneer in Arroyo Grande Valley having planted their vineyards over 30 years ago.  They make a line of distinctive vineyard-specific Pinot Noir.  This one, a blend from their vineyards, delivers a whiff of herbal elements that adds great interest to this otherwise classic fruit-focused California Pinot Noir. … Read more

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2012

($15):  The Albariño grape grown in Rias Baixas makes distinctive wine, which has become, justifiably, very hot recently because its edginess makes it a good choice with a wide variety of food.  The 2012 from Martín Códax has a hint of that edginess, but also delivers some subtle tropical flavors that makes it a good introduction for those who are just starting to embrace this grape and wine. … Read more

Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) 2012

($15, Dreyfus Ashby): The low yielding 2012 vintage produced concentrated white Burgundies, which are just starting to appear on our shores.  The best producers, such as Drouhin, managed to combine that concentration with uplifting acidity.  The meager harvest, which concentrated the flavors, gave an extra boost to places like Mâcon where wines can often be dilute. … Read more

Château Graville-Lacoste, Graves (Bordeaux, France) 2012

($18, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants): Though I reviewed this wine earlier this year, I just tasted it again and realized I should repeat my earlier recommendation because it’s an especially good choice for the Thanksgiving table.  It’s a perfectly harmonized amalgam of lanolin-like texture (from Semillon, which comprises a majority of the blend), with the brightness and freshness of Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more