($45): Creamy and seductive, this stylish Chardonnay will convince anyone that the Russian River Valley can produce wonderful Chardonnay.  Of course, Paul Hobbs, one of California’s star winemakers, had something to do with it.  Intense without being overt or overdone, the combination of subtle fruitiness and minerality, caresses the palate. … Read more

($22): Roederer Estate is certainly one of California’s best sparkling wineries.  Part of the reason for its success is that their grapes come entirely from their vineyards, a rarity among Champagne or sparkling wine producers.  Their non-vintage brut delivers a lovely creamy fruitiness without being soft or sweet. … Read more

($28): MacMurray Ranch’s Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley offers up more herbal and spice elements, giving it more layers, compared to their Central Coast offering.  Still the core delivers lush plum-like flavors. The combination of plush tannins and ripeness contributes to a subtle sweetness in the finish.… Read more

($17): William Hill manages to combine cassis-like flavors with undertones of black olive-like note in this nicely balanced Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine.  The tannins are fine and not intrusive, yet add just the right amount of structure.  This bargain-priced wine is a perfect choice with lamb chops tonight.… Read more

($23): Though there’s a whiff of non-fruit notes in the nose, the focus here is clearly on ripe red/back fruit flavors.  The wine’s plush texture makes it easy to sip before dinner.  It’s a softer, fruit-forward, style of Pinot Noir that finishes slightly sweet because of its ripeness.… Read more

($60): Jake Fetzer, who along with his brother, Ben, run Masút Vineyard and Winery, explains that each year they select a wine from one of the blocks in their estate vineyard that they think has done very well and bottle a portion of it separately. … Read more

($40): Jacob and Ben Fetzer have their work cut for them.  As grandchildren of the famed Barney Fetzer, who founded Fetzer Winery and put Mendocino County on the world’s wine map, they have big shoes to fill.  Judging by this Pinot Noir, they are up to the challenge and will succeed. … Read more

($45): Practically a single vineyard wine — the two vineyards that provide fruit are less that 250 yards apart in the Rutherford Bench and are composed of the same gravelly loam soil — this bottling speaks with precision and focus.  It delivers ripe, but not jammy, black fruit enrobed in silky tannins. … Read more

($50): You’d expect that J Vineyards, one of California leading sparkling wine producers, would know about Pinot Noir since they use that grape in their bubbly.  And judging from Misterra, a blend of Pinot Noir (90%), Pinot Meunier and Pinotage, they do. … Read more

($60): Laurel Glen Vineyard, one of California’s great producers of Cabernet Sauvignon, seems to fly under the radar for reasons I don’t understand. Except for a tiny amount of rosé, Laurel Glen makes only Cabernet Sauvignon — and superb Cabernet at that — and they sell them at reasonable prices. … Read more

($35): This lush Cabernet has plenty of concentration, a whiff of vanilla from oak aging and mild tannins, making it lovely for current consumption.  Herbal notes add complexity.  Its depth and polish make it a good choice for a steak this winter.… Read more

($30): Patrick Campbell, who founded Laurel Glen Vineyard, one of Sonoma’s iconic wineries, in 1977, sold it to Bettina Sichel in 2011, who brought in David Ramey as consulting winemaker.  Their 2011 Counterpoint, their second label, is a great success.  Made for earlier drinking compared to their first label, it delivers a seamless combination of dark fruit, with glimmers of black olives and spice. … Read more

($30): I’ve always considered Grgich Hills Estate one of California’s top producers.  I expect their wines to be distinctive.  Despite their fantastic track record, successive bottlings continue to thrill.  Take this 2012 Sauvignon Blanc.  It’s fabulous — creamy, mineraly, with just the perfect hint of pungency. … Read more

($50): As impressive as Grgich’s Fumé Blanc-labeled Sauvignon Blanc is, this one, labeled Essence, a selection of their best lots, is even better.  What’s amazing is that Grgich has amplified all the components of their regular (though it’s not at all a “regular” wine) Sauvignon Blanc bottling while maintaining its impeccable balance.  … Read more

($20): St. Supéry has fashioned a bright and zippy Sauvignon Blanc that has enough creaminess and body to offset the inherent pungency that grape delivers.  This nicely balanced wine would be a good choice for sushi.
89 Michael Apstein Jan 21, 2014… Read more