($30): Patrick Campbell, who founded Laurel Glen Vineyard, one of Sonoma’s iconic wineries, in 1977, sold it to Bettina Sichel in 2011, who brought in David Ramey as consulting winemaker. Their 2011 Counterpoint, their second label, is a great success. Made for earlier drinking compared to their first label, it delivers a seamless combination of dark fruit, with glimmers of black olives and spice. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Fumé Blanc 2012
($30): I’ve always considered Grgich Hills Estate one of California’s top producers. I expect their wines to be distinctive. Despite their fantastic track record, successive bottlings continue to thrill. Take this 2012 Sauvignon Blanc. It’s fabulous — creamy, mineraly, with just the perfect hint of pungency. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc “Essence” 2012
($50): As impressive as Grgich’s Fumé Blanc-labeled Sauvignon Blanc is, this one, labeled Essence, a selection of their best lots, is even better. What’s amazing is that Grgich has amplified all the components of their regular (though it’s not at all a “regular” wine) Sauvignon Blanc bottling while maintaining its impeccable balance. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($13): The price belies the quality of this Sauvignon Blanc. Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Horse Heaven Hills bottling delivers the expected grapefruit-like pungency of Sauvignon Blanc, but with a dividend of richness and depth often lacking in wines made from that grape.… Read more
Cuatro Rayas, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Verdejo “Viñedo Centenarios” 2012
($13): The sensory paradox of an impression of sweetness from the nose and the mouth-cleansing acidity is one of the charms of this Rueda. The floral nature — honeysuckle and other white flowers — makes you think it’s a sweet wine. … Read more
St. Supéry, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($20): St. Supéry has fashioned a bright and zippy Sauvignon Blanc that has enough creaminess and body to offset the inherent pungency that grape delivers. This nicely balanced wine would be a good choice for sushi.
89 Michael Apstein Jan 21, 2014… Read more
Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2012
($21, Negociants USA): The cooling maritime influences from the Indian and Southern Oceans explain why Western Australian wines differ from those of South Australia, the country’s major wine producing state. The cooler growing season allows grapes more time to ripen and develop complex flavors resulting in wines with great refinement, as exemplified by Vasse Felix’s stunning 2012 Chardonnay. … Read more
Redbank, Victoria (Australia) Chardonnay “The Long Paddock” 2011
($15, Negociants USA): The conventional wisdom is that Australia Chardonnays are ripe, big and in your face. Well, it turns out that conventional wisdom is wrong in this case (and in many others when it comes to Australian wine). Victoria’s relatively cool climate compared to most of Australian grape growing areas is readily apparent in this Chardonnay and explains the wine’s alluring and captivating delicacy and enticing creaminess. … Read more
Allan Scott Family Winemakers, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($15, Allan Scott USA): I have been — and still am — an admirer and fan of Alan Scott’s wines, having followed them over the years. He was one who showed the world the uniqueness and potential of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Ata Rangi, Martinborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Crimson” 2012
($30, Epic Wines): Martinborough on New Zealand’s Northern Island and Central Otago on the Southern Island are the places for Pinot Noir in that, although you’d get an argument from the growers in Marlborough for failing to include that region. But no one would disagree that Ata Rangi is one of the country’s star producers. … Read more
Allan Scott Family Winemakers, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2011
($18, Allan Scott Wines USA): Allan Scott was among the early pioneers in Marlborough showing how that region could excel with Sauvignon Blanc. He is now showing what the region can do with Pinot Noir. His 2011, perhaps his best ever, is an impeccably balanced combination of pristine fruitiness and savory earthy nuances. … Read more
Jacquart, Champagne (France) “Cuvée Mosaïque” Brut NV
($36, JAD Imports): Jacquart, a small Champagne house, makes a stylish array of Champagne. This, their non-vintage Brut, dubbed Cuvée Mosaïque, delivers a lush creaminess and a hint of baked apple. A firm backbone keeps this polished bubbly in balance. Of course, it’s ideal as a stand-alone drink–and a very fine one at that — but it also reminds us that Champagne is great with a variety of dishes. … Read more
Deutz, Champagne (France) Brut NV
($44, Adrian Chalk Selections): Deutz, an under-recognized house, makes consistently lovely Champagne that are pleasantly powerful — a substantial amount of Pinot Noir speaking — while retaining elegance. This one, their non-vintage Brut, has an appealing roundness and mouth-filling quality. Their mid-weight style makes it easy to sip as an aperitif or to pair with a simply grilled white fish, such as sea bass.… Read more
Valley of the Moon, Sonoma County (California) Pinot Blanc 2012
($23): It’s a pleasure to find a California Pinot Blanc that strikes the right balance. There can be a temptation to beef up this delicate wine either by using super ripe grapes or overwhelming it with barrel aging. Valley of the Moon has avoided both. … Read more
Foley Johnson, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($75): The Foley Johnson interpretation of Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon focuses more on fruit than on earthy notes. Ripe sweet red, almost strawberry-like, fruit buttressed by fine suave tannins makes it easy to love. There’s a lovely purity and focus in this wine that makes it very appealing for current consumption.… Read more
Monticello Vineyards, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Tietjen Vineyard 2010
($72): The Rutherford section of Napa Valley is rightly known to be an ideal place for Cabernet Sauvignon. The line-up of wines from the Rutherford Dust Society — a group of producers who make wines from Rutherford grown fruit — shows the uniqueness of the region. … Read more
Quintessa, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) 2010
($135): Combine a great producer, Agustin Huneeus and his team, with a great place, Rutherford, and bingo — you get great wine. The 2010 Quintessa delivers a little bit of everything — fruit, herbs, earth, minerals — and not too much of anything. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Zinfandel 2010
($35): Though best known for their stellar Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, Grgich makes a stylish and dare I say, refined, Zinfandel. It has plenty of up-front fruit and briary spice, as befitting a Zinfandel. But what sets it apart is its lack of flamboyance. … Read more
Grgich Hills, Napa Valley (California) Petite Sirah Miljenko’s Vineyard 2009
($60): If anyone needed additional proof (I don’t) that Grgich Hills is a brilliant producer — one of California’s best — they should try this Petite Sirah. It’s a category I try to avoid judging at wine competitions because most Petite Sirah are massive and ponderous, lacking finesse and complexity I value and look for. … Read more
Tomero, Mendoza (Argentina) Torrontés 2012
($17, Blends Inc.): Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white grape, with its lightness and delicacy, is at the opposite end of the spectrum from that country’s emblematic red grape, Malbec. Honeysuckle, but without the sweetness, springs to mind after one whiff and taste of Tomero’s 2012 Torrontés. … Read more
Oro de Castilla, Rueda (Spain) Verdejo 2012
($16, Olé Imports): It may be winter outside, but the essence of summer emerges once you pull the cork — or rather unscrew the top — of this bottle. Floral, bright and vibrant, it’s a joy to sip and drink. A slight nuttiness adds complexity without imparting heaviness. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Côte de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2011
($34, Dreyfus-Ashby): Côte de Beaune is an unusual appellation, not to be confused (though it often is) with Côte de Beaune-Villages or simply Beaune. It is comprised of a few vineyards located above Beaune — but not in the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune — on the Montagne de Beaune. … Read more
Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Chapelle 2011
($33, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Lafouge is a star producer in Auxey-Duresses, an off the beat track village that is becoming better known as a place to find high quality reasonably priced Burgundy. Good concentration, charming cherry-like note and a balancing savory finish makes this is an easy wine to recommend for current consumption with a roast chicken.… Read more
Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) Clos Saint Philibert 2011
($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Since the late 1980s when Jean Nicolas reclaimed previously leased vineyards and took over running the domaine, Méo-Camuzet has rapidly become among the star producers in Vosne-Romanée, with their top reds, Richebourg and Cros Parentoux, selling for $1,000 a bottle. … Read more
Domaine Sainte-Barbe, Viré-Clessé (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2011
($26, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Viré-Clessé is a relatively new appellation (1998) that was created from two towns, Viré and Clessé, that were formerly included with the more general Macon-Villages because the wines from those towns were judged to be more distinctive. … Read more
Domaine Jobard, Rully (Burgundy, France) “Montagne la Folie” 2011
($27, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Domaine Jobard is a small domaine worth watching because fine winemaking runs in the family. Laurence Jobard, mother of Claudie, the current winemaker, was the winemaker at Maison Joseph Drouhin for 30 years. The stature of this Rully, a village wine, comes from the old vines — their average age is 40-45 years. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica Gold” 2012
($30): The 2012 Eroica Gold, the inaugural vintage for this super wine, may explain the exceptional quality of the 2012 Eroica. If I had to guess, the winemaking team compulsively selected grapes — ones with even a hint of extra ripeness went into the Gold Eroica keeping the 2012 Eroica even brighter and more vibrant than usual. … Read more
Clos du Val, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay 2011
($28): Though their wines are consistently among the best in Napa Valley, Clos du Val is not — and never was — a “cult” winery. All their wines have the same grace and balance of this Chardonnay. It’s toasty and rich without being oaky or obnoxious. … Read more
J Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Brut Rosé NV
($38): Judy Jordan founded J Vineyards and Winery in 1986 and has been making stunning sparkling wines every since. Its grapefruit-tinged nuances impart a pleasantly cutting edginess. This fresh and floral style of rosé works well as an invigorating aperitif or as an accompaniment to smoked salmon or scallops in a decadent cream sauce.… Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($32): I’ve had so many excellent vintages of Merry Edwards’ Sauvignon Blanc that I should no longer be surprised. But I am because I still associate her with stellar Pinot Noir and only few producers anywhere in the world show their talents with both grapes. … Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2011
($32, Henriot USA): Village wines get short shrift as consumers clamor for wines from Premier Cru vineyards. This village wine combines unexpected concentration with an alluring floral character. It shows the charm of many of the 2011 reds.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 17, 2013… Read more
Domaine Gallois, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2011
($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The nice thing about a wine carrying only a Bourgogne appellation from a grower is that you know roughly the origin of the grapes, since they must have come from the grower’s domaine. That explains why this Bourgogne Rouge from Gallois, who is based in Gevrey-Chambertin, tastes like a miniature Gevrey-Chambertin. … Read more
Domaine François Lamarche, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2011
($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Considering that they are the sole owners of the Grand Cru vineyard, La Grande Rue (one of the most expensive pieces of real estate in all of Burgundy since it’s bordered by La Tache, La Romanée, La Romanée-Conti, and Romanée Saint-Vivant), Domaine François Lamarche is one of the most under-rated Burgundy producers. … Read more
Domaine Stèphane Magnien, Bourgogne Passetoutgrain (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Densité” 2011
($17, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Passetoutgrain is a blend of Gamy and Pinot Noir. When the vines are planted in the right place, as in Stèphane Magnien’s case, the wines can be delightful. Magnien makes two different cuvées of a Bourgogne Passetougrain. … Read more
Domaine Lamarche, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) 2011
($32, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The Hautes-Côtes is less well-situated land to the west and above the major villages of the Côte d’Or. Wines from talented producers, such as Domaine Lamarche, represent value-packed Burgundy. Lamarche’s nicely concentrated 2011 is quite fragrant and surprisingly elegant and glossy for a wine from this appellation.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica” 2012
($22): In 1999, Dr. Ernst Loosen, a leading producer in the Mosel (the ancestral home of the Riesling grape) and Chateau Ste Michelle embarked on a collaboration to produce world class Riesling in Washington’s Columbia Valley. The collaboration made sense since Chateau Ste Michelle was among the first to plant Riesling in Washington and the Dr.… Read more
Laetitia, Arroyo Grande Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Estate 2012
($25): Laetitia could be considered a pioneer in Arroyo Grande Valley having planted their vineyards over 30 years ago. They make a line of distinctive vineyard-specific Pinot Noir. This one, a blend from their vineyards, delivers a whiff of herbal elements that adds great interest to this otherwise classic fruit-focused California Pinot Noir. … Read more
Chateau Greysac, Medoc (Bordeaux, France) 2009
($20): Château Greysac, a consistently value-packed wine, is one of the most widely available Bordeaux in the U.S. marketplace. The 2009 is particularly successful because the fleshy ripe fruitiness and power of the vintage marries nicely with the savory, slightly bitter notes characteristic of wine from the Médoc.… Read more
La Bastide Dauzac, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2010
($39): When consumers consider Bordeaux, they rightly remember the names of the chateaux more than the names of the people behind them. Well, the name André Lurton is worth remembering because the Lurton family has a spectacular track record of producing excellent wines from a variety of properties all over Bordeaux. … Read more
Clos Floridene, Graves (Bordeaux, France) 2011
($33): White wine from Bordeaux is undervalued and overlooked. Don’t make that mistake with this charming example. It has a near magical combination of a pleasantly grassy pungency beautifully balanced by a lanolin-like creaminess. Truly mouth filling, it’s long and graceful as well. … Read more
Martin Codax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2012
($15): The Albariño grape grown in Rias Baixas makes distinctive wine, which has become, justifiably, very hot recently because its edginess makes it a good choice with a wide variety of food. The 2012 from Martín Códax has a hint of that edginess, but also delivers some subtle tropical flavors that makes it a good introduction for those who are just starting to embrace this grape and wine. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2012
($21): The town of Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of the Côte d’Or is a sleeper as a source for well priced white and red Burgundy, especially in 2012, a vintage that was short on quantity, but long on quality. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) 2012
($15, Dreyfus Ashby): The low yielding 2012 vintage produced concentrated white Burgundies, which are just starting to appear on our shores. The best producers, such as Drouhin, managed to combine that concentration with uplifting acidity. The meager harvest, which concentrated the flavors, gave an extra boost to places like Mâcon where wines can often be dilute. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Réserve de Vaudon” 2012
($23, Dreyfus Ashby): Though based in Beaune in the Côte d’Or, Maison Joseph Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s best négociants, owns substantial vineyards in Chablis. Their Réserve de Vaudon, made from grapes grown in their vineyards, is a perfect way to discover this unique style of Chardonnay. … Read more
Château Graville-Lacoste, Graves (Bordeaux, France) 2012
($18, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants): Though I reviewed this wine earlier this year, I just tasted it again and realized I should repeat my earlier recommendation because it’s an especially good choice for the Thanksgiving table. It’s a perfectly harmonized amalgam of lanolin-like texture (from Semillon, which comprises a majority of the blend), with the brightness and freshness of Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Léo de la Gaffelière, Saint-Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2011
($19, Luneau USA / Nicolas Wines): Château La Gaffelière is one of the leading properties in Saint-Emilion, making sensational wine year in and year out. As the competition at the top end of Bordeaux continues, the top properties make ever increasing severe selections to maintain the quality — and price — of the top wine. … Read more
Château de Cruzeau, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2010
($27, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits): This wine exemplifies why Bordeaux remains a benchmark for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot-based wine. It’s not just about the fruit, of which there’s plenty. But the real excitement comes from the non-fruit flavors of earth, herbs and ash, plus the slight bitterness in the long and fine finish. … Read more
Château Gravelier, Bordeaux (France) 2010
($10, Esprit du Vin): Let me know when you find a better $10 red wine. This Merlot dominant (70%) blend is an unbelievable bargain, delivering both fleshy fruit flavors and balancing savory notes. Solid weight, freshness, and an ever so slightly bitter finish just add to the enjoyment. … Read more
Château Lamothe de Haux, Bordeaux (France) 2012
($12, Bayfield Importing): White wines from Bordeaux, such as this one, are underappreciated and hence, offer great value. The 2012 Château Lamothe de Haux, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (40%), Semillon (40%) and Muscadelle, delivers a lovely grassy bite — Sauvignon Blanc speaking — atop a creamy texture, thanks to the Semillon. … Read more
François Chidaine, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Les Argiles” 2012
($25, Beaune Imports): Vouvray is often shunned because the consumer can’t discern the level of sweetness from the label. Well, there’s no reason to shun Chidaine, one of the leaders in Vouvray. His 2012 Les Argiles is fruity, yet dry, and pleasantly piercing, which makes it positively mouth cleansing.… Read more