($22, Dreyfus Ashby & Co): Warmer years like 2012 or 2009 benefit Burgundy appellations, such as Rully, in the Côte Chalonnaise whose wines can often come across as lean in cooler vintages. Drouhin’s 2012 Rully has plenty of ripe juicy red fruit flavors to balance the stony firmness you’d expect from the wines of this appellation. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roi 2010
($50): The Château de Chamirey, one of the finest producers in Mercurey, owns about one-third of Clos du Roi, a 30-acre premier cru vineyard. They’ve divided their 10-acres into four distinct plots identified by different soils, which produce Pinot Noir that ripens at slightly different times. … Read more
Domaine de Suremain, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2012
($30): Domaine de Suremain is a top producer in Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise where authentic Burgundy can be found at reasonable prices. The 2012 vintage was especially kind in there because it gave the wines a touch extra ripeness that balances the characteristic firmness of the region. … Read more
Domaine Tollot-Beaut, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) Pièce du Chapitre 2009
($42): None of the 375 acres of vineyards in Chorey-lès-Beaune, a small village just north of Beaune (lès means near), are classified as premier cru because they lie on the flat land as opposed to the better situated sites on the slope. … Read more
Château Faizeau, Montagne-Saint-Emilion (Bordeaux, France) “Sélection Vieilles Vignes” 2010
($25): Montagne-Saint-Emilion, a “satellite” appellation of Saint-Emilion, lies adjacent to the north of that revered appellation. The wines from this satellite are never as grand or complex, but then again they’re never as pricey. Indeed, good values, such as Chateau Faizeau, are everywhere in Montagne-Saint Emilion, especially in a great year, such as 2010. … Read more
Nigl, Kremstal (Niederösterreich, Austria) Grüner Veltliner “Freheit” 2012
($20): Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s “national” white grape, is capable of making delectable wines. And Nigl has done just that. There’s a hint of white pepper that beautifully offsets subtle peach-like flavors. Potent acidity keeps in bright and lively throughout a meal. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir NV
($45): Merry Edwards consistently produces a stunning array of Pinot Noir and 2011 was no exception. This one, a blend from vineyards within the Russian River Valley, is the most straightforward and most immediately appealing. Hints of sweet oak are still apparent but marry well with savory notes. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2011
($54): Merry Edwards has a reputation for bottling Pinot Noir from several individual vineyards within the Russian River Valley. Tasting them side-by-side validates her judgment that the wines are different and deserve their separate designations. These single vineyard wines reflect inherent differences in the vineyards (aka terroir) and bottling them separately has great merit because it shows the wonderful diversity of the Russian River Valley. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2011
($57): Merry Edwards’ Meredith Estate Pinot Noir has a lot in common with the Klopp Ranch bottling in that it’s weighty but not heavy and has Merry Edwards’ signature, a plush texture. But worthy of a single vineyard bottling, it’s distinctive. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2011
($57): Merry Edwards’ Klopp Ranch bottling of Pinot Noir is wonderfully different from her other single vineyard wines. It’s denser still, with more concentrated black fruit flavors, yet still avoids being heavy because of lip-smacking acidity. At this stage, there’s a smattering of savory notes that emerges with time in the glass. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Ruelles 2011
($44): Château de Chamirey is one of the top producers in Mercurey, probably the best village in the Côte Chalonnaise for red wine. You can’t really go wrong with any of their wines. Les Ruelles, a premier cru vineyard owned exclusively by Château de Chamirey, is especially attractive in 2011. … Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Merlot Three Palms Vineyard 2011
($95): It’s hard to remember, but as recently as 1978, just two years after Dan and Margaret Duckhorn founded their eponymous winery, Merlot was rarely bottled in California as a varietal wine. The grape was used primarily for blending — to “soften” Cabernet Sauvignon. … Read more
Tenuta Alzatura, Sagrantino di Montefalco (Umbria, Italy) 2008
($41, Banfi Imports): Combine the owner of Tenuta Alzatura, the Cecchi family, one of Tuscany’s most reliable producers, with a superb vintage, 2008, and you’d expect an outstanding wine just from the label. What’s in the bottle confirms your prediction. Mind you, this wine, as good as it is, is not for the faint of heart. … Read more
Rocca delle Macie, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2009
($23, Palm Bay International): Reflective of the warmer vintage in Tuscany, Rocca delle Macie’s 2009 Chianti Classico Riserva conveys a juicier and riper cherry-like fruitiness than usual. Still, it has plenty of that mouth tingling acidity that makes matching Chianti with pasta with a hearty meat sauce such a pleasure. … Read more
Château du Galoupet, Côtes de Provence (France) 2013
($18): This dry, vibrant rosé, a blend of the usual Mediterranean grapes, Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah, delivers a delicate fruitiness on a firm frame. Invigorating grapefruit-like acidity keeps it fresh and a perfect foil for a hearty springtime salad.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 8, 2014… Read more
Caves d’Esclans, Côtes de Provence (France) “Whispering Angel” 2013
($20): This rosé combines the seriousness of real wine with the charm and seduction of rosé. Delicate and fragrant strawberry-like notes dance across the palate. Without a hint of sweetness, it’s positively fresh, invigorating, and long, all at the same time. … Read more
Château d’Esclans, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) “Les Clans” 2012
($60, Shaw-Ross International Importers): Sacha Lichine, whose name is synonymous with Bordeaux, is the moving force behind this very high end property in Provence specializing in rosé. Since I am not usually enthralled by rosé, I am surprised by my enthusiasm for this and his other wines. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2012
($16, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): St. Véran, an appellation nestled between Mâcon-Villages and Pouilly-Fuissé in prestige is often a fine value, offering a more sophisticated wine than the former at a price lower than the latter. Jadot’s 2012 is just that. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2012
($13, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): The 2012 vintage produced ripe white Burgundies, especially good news for “lesser” appellations, such as Mâcon-Villages, whose wines benefit from a touch more ripeness. Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, captured sufficient acidity to balance the ripe apple-like flavors. … Read more
Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2012
($80, Henriot, Inc.): Vaudésir is always among the top two vineyards in any ranking of Chablis Grand Cru (Les Clos is the other). And Domaine William Fevre is one of Chablis’ consistently finest producers. So it’s not surprising that this is a stunningly stellar wine. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2012
($25, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Chablis remains one of, if not the best, values for white wine. Always made exclusively from Chardonnay, Chablis, when produced by dedicated growers such as Christian Moreau, delivers a unique profile of flintiness and verve, even at this lower end of the prestige ladder. … Read more
Sequoia Grove, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2012
($28): Sequoia Grove has successfully walked a fine line by producing this restrained, but not eviscerated, Chardonnay. Indeed, the hint of creaminess becomes more even engaging because it doesn’t fight heavier, more obvious flavors. Enlivening acidity in the finish keeps it fresh and you coming back for more. … Read more
Isabel Mondavi, Carneros (California) Chardonnay 2012
($30): Carneros, the cool region at the southern end of both the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, is well recognized as a great place for Chardonnay, a variety that likes cooler climate. Rob Mondavi, Jr., the winemaker and grandson of legendary Robert Mondavi, says he purchases grapes from growers in the Sonoma Valley portion of Carneros and blends them with their estate grapes from the Napa Valley portion of Carneros because the Sonoma grapes add a different dimension. … Read more
Adami, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore (Veneto, Italy) Bosco di Gica Brut NV
($18, Dalla Terra): The oceans of Prosecco on the market combined with the indiscriminate use of that term makes that category of Italian sparkling wine a minefield. One sure way to avoid an unpleasant experience is to reach for a wine made by Adami, one of the region’s top producers, which bottles a fine range of Prosecco. … Read more
Antonelli San Marco, Sagrantino di Montefalco (Umbria, Italy) 2008
($35): Antonelli’s viticultural and winemaking techniques result in a more elegant Sagrantino, often a wine with ferocious tannins. This Sagrantino is, indeed, less extracted and slightly less muscular than many. But not at the expense of minerality and earthiness, that really borders on an alluring tarry aspect. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Preuses 2012
($65, Louis Latour USA): Simonnet-Febvre is one of the top producers in Chablis. They eschew oak aging preferring to focus on the bracing minerality unique to the Chablis region, which gives their wines a lean, racy edginess. The 2012 vintage was especially well suited to their style because it delivered fully ripe grapes with slightly lower apparent acidity, which meant that some producers’ wines lacked the usual verve of Chablis. … Read more
Jean Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($26): Jean Marc Brocard, always one of my favorite Chablis producers, made a stunning array of wines in 2012. This one, from old vines, whose average age is 68 years, is one of the best village Chablis I’ve ever had. With wonderful intensity–but no heaviness–and balance, it has penetration, energy and extraordinary length, especially for a village wine. … Read more
Jean Paul Brun, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Brun’s Beaujolais, bottled under the Terres Dorées label, redefine that appellation. The vast majority of Beaujolais — I’m not speaking of Beaujolais-Village and certainly not the cru — are nothing more than alcoholic grape juice. But Brun’s is real wine filled with satisfying mix of fruitiness and herbal/spicy elements. … Read more
Migration, Sonoma Coast (California) Chardonnay Charles Heintz Vineyard 2012
($55): Migration is one of Duckhorn’s outposts in Northern California for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Dan and Margaret Duckhorn knew, perhaps ahead of their time, that Napa Valley, their home, was great for certain grapes, but a less ideal place for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which excel in cooler climates, such as Sonoma Coast. … Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($29): Duckhorn has always focused on Merlot. And their Merlots are terrific. But Duckhorn is not a one-trick pony, as this Sauvignon Blanc shows. Beautifully balanced, it combines richness and edginess. A touch of Semillon — anywhere from 15 to 20 percent — is included in the blend, which provides lushness without obliterating the pleasant and uplifting bite of Sauvignon.… Read more
Maison Alex Gambal, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) “Grand Picotins” 2012
($50, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill): Savigny-lès-Beaune, a small village just north of Beaune, is a good source for authentic Burgundy. Alex Gambal, an American who is one of Burgundy’s rising stars, makes elegant and refined wines under the guidance of his winemaker, Geraldine Godot. … Read more
Maison Alex Gambal, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2012
($45, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill): Chorey-lès-Beaune, like Savigny-lès-Beaune, is another good source of reasonably — for Burgundy — priced wines. The wines from Chorey tend to be a touch more robust than those from Savigny. Gambal’s Chorey-lès-Beaune conveys more black fruit than red and has an engaging immediate impact, without sacrificing any of what has become the purity and elegance that marks Geraldine Godot’s winemaking. … Read more
Domaine Lignier-Michelot, Bourgogne Rouge (France) 2012
($27, Frederick Wildman & Sons): The 2012 vintage in Burgundy is good news/bad news. The good news is that, in general, the reds were excellent. The bad news is that the crop was decreased markedly by bad weather, which means much higher prices. … Read more
Decoy, Sonoma County (California) Pinot Noir 2012
($25): Finding authentic Pinot Noir at this price is a treat. All too often they are just sweet and fruity. Decoy’s — they do love to fool you — has modest and restrained fruitiness that allows the herbal, slightly savory, element that makes Pinot Noir so engaging.… Read more
Decoy, Sonoma County (California) Merlot 2012
($25): If anyone in California can make authentic Merlot, it should be Duckhorn Vineyards who focused on that varietal well before it became a household word. They make a marvelous one under their Decoy label. This 2012 is fleshy and ripe, with a lovely slightly bitter cherry note in the finish. … Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($63): Though Duckhorn has focused on Merlot since their inception, their Cabernets demonstrate that the winery is hardly a one-trick pony. This classic Napa Valley Cabernet is firm without being aggressive. Deeply flavored, it’s not over the top, but well-balanced delivering a mélange of black fruit flavors and herbal, savory — almost black olive type — notes. … Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2011
($54): Duckhorn made a name for itself with Merlot and continues to excel with that grape variety. Their 2011 Napa Valley bottling, made from a combination of their and purchased grapes, has real character, which puts it out of the “I’ll have a glass of Merlot before dinner” category. … Read more
Decoy, Napa County (California) Red Wine 2011
($25): Decoy is Duckhorn’s little sister winery that focuses on wines that are meant to be consumed immediately after release. And this supple mid-weight wine is just that. But like a decoy, it fools you. Though you might think that a wine labeled “Red Wine” would be a non-descript commodity, this is far from that, offering good structure that balances its engaging fruitiness. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (California) Pinot Noir Gowan Creek Vineyard 2011
($80): Goldeneye is Duckhorn Vineyard’s winery and estate in Anderson Valley that Dan and Margaret Duckhorn established in 1996. Duckhorn realized that if they wanted to make top notch Pinot Noir they needed to look elsewhere from their northern Napa Valley base, which was far too warm for that grape. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (California) Pinot Noir “Ten Degrees Vineyard” 2011
($115): Confusingly, the Ten Degrees Vineyard bottling does not come from a single vineyard, but rather is a blend of Goldeneye’s best lots from their four Anderson Valley vineyards, making it more like a “Reserve” bottling than an expression of a single discreet place. … Read more
Castello Banfi, IGT Toscana (Italy) “Belnero” 2010
($25, Banfi Imports): Castello Banfi, one of the leading producers Brunello di Montalcino, introduced Belnero a few years ago. It is composed almost exclusively of Sangiovese, though small amounts of “international varieties” are included in the blend. It has gotten better and better over the years. … Read more
Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaulorent 2012
($60, Henriot, Inc.): The Vaulorent vineyard is the only premier cru vineyard that sits on the so-called Grand Cru hill of Chablis and is adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyards. Wines from this vineyard are frequently sold under the more recognized vineyard name, Fourchaume. … Read more
Jean Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Sainte Claire” 2012
($20): Borcard hit a bull’s eye with their Chablis in 2012, a relatively riper year. They harvested a bit early and captured gorgeous mouth-watering acidity in their entire line of wines. Their village Chablis, dubbed Sainte Claire, is an extraordinary value given the complexity and verve it delivers. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Chardonnay “Arthur” 2012
($32): The Chardonnay — and the Pinot Noir for that matter — from Domaine Drouhin Oregon, the outpost of one of Burgundy’s leading producers, Maison Joseph Drouhin, both have the elegance and finesse of the mother ship. The 2012 Arthur, named after winemaker Véronique Drouhin’s son, is paradoxically lush and restrained. … Read more
Paul Hobbs, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2011
($45): Creamy and seductive, this stylish Chardonnay will convince anyone that the Russian River Valley can produce wonderful Chardonnay. Of course, Paul Hobbs, one of California’s star winemakers, had something to do with it. Intense without being overt or overdone, the combination of subtle fruitiness and minerality, caresses the palate. … Read more
Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley (California) Brut NV
($22): Roederer Estate is certainly one of California’s best sparkling wineries. Part of the reason for its success is that their grapes come entirely from their vineyards, a rarity among Champagne or sparkling wine producers. Their non-vintage brut delivers a lovely creamy fruitiness without being soft or sweet. … Read more
MacMurray Ranch, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2012
($28): MacMurray Ranch’s Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley offers up more herbal and spice elements, giving it more layers, compared to their Central Coast offering. Still the core delivers lush plum-like flavors. The combination of plush tannins and ripeness contributes to a subtle sweetness in the finish.… Read more
William Hill Estate Winery, North Coast (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($17): William Hill manages to combine cassis-like flavors with undertones of black olive-like note in this nicely balanced Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine. The tannins are fine and not intrusive, yet add just the right amount of structure. This bargain-priced wine is a perfect choice with lamb chops tonight.… Read more
MacMurray Ranch, Central Coast (California) Pinot Noir 2012
($23): Though there’s a whiff of non-fruit notes in the nose, the focus here is clearly on ripe red/back fruit flavors. The wine’s plush texture makes it easy to sip before dinner. It’s a softer, fruit-forward, style of Pinot Noir that finishes slightly sweet because of its ripeness.… Read more
Mulderbosch, Stellenbosch (Western Cape, South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2011
($17, Cape Classics): Cutting and piercing in an attractive way, Mulderbosch’s Sauvignon Blanc is the ideal foil for spicy Asian fare. It will cut through anything on the plate, without being overshadowed, and reawaken any palate. Its laser-like cut is startling without being aggressive or sharp and actually reinforces the wine’s flavors — an unusual combination to say the least.… Read more