Category Archives: Reviews

Château Faizeau, Montagne-Saint-Emilion (Bordeaux, France) “Sélection Vieilles Vignes” 2010

($25): Montagne-Saint-Emilion, a “satellite” appellation of Saint-Emilion, lies adjacent to the north of that revered appellation.  The wines from this satellite are never as grand or complex, but then again they’re never as pricey.  Indeed, good values, such as Chateau Faizeau, are everywhere in Montagne-Saint Emilion, especially in a great year, such as 2010. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2011

($54): Merry Edwards has a reputation for bottling Pinot Noir from several individual vineyards within the Russian River Valley.  Tasting them side-by-side validates her judgment that the wines are different and deserve their separate designations.  These single vineyard wines reflect inherent differences in the vineyards (aka terroir) and bottling them separately has great merit because it shows the wonderful diversity of the Russian River Valley. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2011

($57): Merry Edwards’ Klopp Ranch bottling of Pinot Noir is wonderfully different from her other single vineyard wines.  It’s denser still, with more concentrated black fruit flavors, yet still avoids being heavy because of lip-smacking acidity.  At this stage, there’s a smattering of savory notes that emerges with time in the glass. Read more

Isabel Mondavi, Carneros (California) Chardonnay 2012

($30): Carneros, the cool region at the southern end of both the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, is well recognized as a great place for Chardonnay, a variety that likes cooler climate.  Rob Mondavi, Jr., the winemaker and grandson of legendary Robert Mondavi, says he purchases grapes from growers in the Sonoma Valley portion of Carneros and blends them with their estate grapes from the Napa Valley portion of Carneros because the Sonoma grapes add a different dimension. … Read more

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Preuses 2012

($65, Louis Latour USA): Simonnet-Febvre is one of the top producers in Chablis.  They eschew oak aging preferring to focus on the bracing minerality unique to the Chablis region, which gives their wines a lean, racy edginess.  The 2012 vintage was especially well suited to their style because it delivered fully ripe grapes with slightly lower apparent acidity, which meant that some producers’ wines lacked the usual verve of Chablis. … Read more

Jean Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012

($26): Jean Marc Brocard, always one of my favorite Chablis producers, made a stunning array of wines in 2012.  This one, from old vines, whose average age is 68 years, is one of the best village Chablis I’ve ever had.  With wonderful intensity–but no heaviness–and balance, it has penetration, energy and extraordinary length, especially for a village wine. … Read more

Jean Paul Brun, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012

($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Brun’s Beaujolais, bottled under the Terres Dorées label, redefine that appellation.  The vast majority of Beaujolais — I’m not speaking of Beaujolais-Village and certainly not the cru — are nothing more than alcoholic grape juice.  But Brun’s is real wine filled with satisfying mix of fruitiness and herbal/spicy elements. … Read more

Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2012

($29): Duckhorn has always focused on Merlot.  And their Merlots are terrific.  But Duckhorn is not a one-trick pony, as this Sauvignon Blanc shows.  Beautifully balanced, it combines richness and edginess.  A touch of Semillon — anywhere from 15 to 20 percent — is included in the blend, which provides lushness without obliterating the pleasant and uplifting bite of Sauvignon.… Read more

Maison Alex Gambal, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2012

($45, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill): Chorey-lès-Beaune, like Savigny-lès-Beaune, is another good source of reasonably — for Burgundy — priced wines.  The wines from Chorey tend to be a touch more robust than those from Savigny.  Gambal’s Chorey-lès-Beaune conveys more black fruit than red and has an engaging immediate impact, without sacrificing any of what has become the purity and elegance that marks Geraldine Godot’s winemaking. … Read more

Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

($63): Though Duckhorn has focused on Merlot since their inception, their Cabernets demonstrate that the winery is hardly a one-trick pony.  This classic Napa Valley Cabernet is firm without being aggressive.  Deeply flavored, it’s not over the top, but well-balanced delivering a mélange of black fruit flavors and herbal, savory — almost black olive type — notes. … Read more

Decoy, Napa County (California) Red Wine 2011

($25): Decoy is Duckhorn’s little sister winery that focuses on wines that are meant to be consumed immediately after release.  And this supple mid-weight wine is just that.  But like a decoy, it fools you.  Though you might think that a wine labeled “Red Wine” would be a non-descript commodity, this is far from that, offering good structure that balances its engaging fruitiness. … Read more

Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Chardonnay “Arthur” 2012

($32):  The Chardonnay — and the Pinot Noir for that matter — from Domaine Drouhin Oregon, the outpost of one of Burgundy’s leading producers, Maison Joseph Drouhin, both have the elegance and finesse of the mother ship.  The 2012 Arthur, named after winemaker Véronique Drouhin’s son, is paradoxically lush and restrained. … Read more

Paul Hobbs, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2011

($45): Creamy and seductive, this stylish Chardonnay will convince anyone that the Russian River Valley can produce wonderful Chardonnay.  Of course, Paul Hobbs, one of California’s star winemakers, had something to do with it.  Intense without being overt or overdone, the combination of subtle fruitiness and minerality, caresses the palate. … Read more

Mulderbosch, Stellenbosch (Western Cape, South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2011

($17, Cape Classics): Cutting and piercing in an attractive way, Mulderbosch’s Sauvignon Blanc is the ideal foil for spicy Asian fare.  It will cut through anything on the plate, without being overshadowed, and reawaken any palate.  Its laser-like cut is startling without being aggressive or sharp and actually reinforces the wine’s flavors — an unusual combination to say the least.… Read more