Category Archives: Reviews

Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire” 2022

($28):  Chablis remains one bright spot in Burgundy for consumers because its wines remain underpriced, and a great value compared to those from the Côte d’Or.  What they may lack it opulence compared to New World Chardonnay or the Chardonnay-based wines from the Côte d’Or, they make up for with a riveting minerality and focus. Read more

Tenuta Calimaia, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Tuscany, Italy) 2020

($20):  Frescobaldi, a name synonymous with quality in Tuscany, has established this estate in Montepulciano.  It’s really a return to Montepulciano for them since Leonardo Di Niccolò Frescobaldi was the town’s mayor in 1390.  The exquisite 2020, their second vintage, is, in a word, gorgeous, melding black fruit that borders on tarriness with minerals. Read more

Domaine Mont Bessay, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Le Vieux Bourg 2021

($50, Misa Imports):  Domaine Mont Bessay is a new project from the people who make the beautifully textured wines at Domaine du Cellier aux Moines in Givry.  Just as Philippe Pascal and Guillaume Marko are drawing attention to Givry in the Côte Chalonnaise — not to be confused with Gevrey in the Côte d’Or — they will make the world think differently about Beaujolais cru wines. Read more

Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) Rialzi 2018

($52):  Grapes for a Gran Selezione bottling, which sits above Riserva at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, must come the estate’s own property — no purchased grapes allowed.  Perano’s comes from a single vineyard, Rialzi, located at about 500 meters above sea level, which is a real advantage in these days of climate change. Read more

Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) Rialzi 2018

($52):  Grapes for a Gran Selezione bottling, which sits above Riserva at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, must come the estate’s own property — no purchased grapes allowed.  Perano’s comes from a single vineyard, Rialzi, located at about 500 meters above sea level, which is a real advantage in these days of climate change. Read more

Domaine Guillot-Broux, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Les Genièvrières” 2020

($46, Vintus):  This stunning Bourgogne Rouge will change your mind about the quality of red wines coming from the Mâconnais.  Firstly, Domaine Guillot-Broux is clearly a talented and detail-oriented producer.  They waited 18 years before making a wine from Les Genièvrières, a vineyard in Cruzille, a village not far from the Abbaye de Cluny, because they didn’t think the vines were old enough to produce high-quality wine! Read more

E. Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Brune et Blonde de Guigal” 2019

($91, Vintus):  Côte Rôtie, or “roasted slope” transliterated into English, is composed of two major subdivisions, the Côte Brune and the Côte Blonde.  Typically, the former imparts more power to the Syrah grown there because of the iron rich soil, while the latter is home to Syrah with more finesse, reflecting its limestone soil. Read more

Xanadu, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Circa 77” 2020

($18, RWG USA):  This charming and restrained Cabernet is exactly the opposite of the heavy weight Cabernets coming from Australia or California.  This mid-weight wine delivers a seamless and balanced combination of spice, black, and red fruit notes.  The small (six percent) amount of Cabernet Franc in the blend announces itself by subtle and alluring leafy and herbal nuances and amplifies the wine’s charms. Read more

Xanadu, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Vinework” 2020

($27, RWG USA):  Glenn Goodall, Xanadu’s winemaker, explains that producers in the Margaret River they like to focus on what they do best — Cabernet Sauvignon.  He notes with great pride that Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon wins, on average, 75 percent of all trophies in Australian wine competition, despite accounting for only three percent of the Cabernet Sauvignon that is crushed. Read more