($45, Wilson Daniels): I admit it — I am an unabashed fan of Kumeu River’s Chardonnays, which I think are the best overall coming out of New Zealand. Surprisingly, they’re in Auckland — the wine region, not the city — one of the country’s smallest wine areas, responsible for a whopping 0.2 percent of the country’s wine production, and most of that is red. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir Taylors Pass Vineyard 2010
($42, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): Villa Maria has managed to capture both the sweet fruitiness and the savory aspect of Pinot Noir in this single vineyard bottling. Paradoxically, even the savory elements have a purity about them. The fine tannins provide needed backbone without being intrusive. … Read more
Attems, Venezia Giulia IGT (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Ramato” 2012
($18, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Despite its copper hue, Attems’ Pinot Grigio is not a rosé. Indeed, it is among the few renditions of Pinot Grigio that have an ever-so-slightly rusty pink color to them because the grape itself is pink skinned. … Read more
Castello Banfi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio alle Mura 2011
($32, Cru Artisan Wines): The best Rosso di Montalcino, such as this one, can truly be considered “baby” Brunello. Though they lack the complexity of Brunello, they are ready to drink sooner, provide a hint of the grandeur of the bigger brother, and are far easier on the wallet.… Read more
Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio alle Mura 2008
($72, Cru Artisan Wines): 
As much as I like Banfi’s Rosso from the Poggio alle Mura vineyard, their Brunello from that vineyard shows why Brunello is one of Italy’s great wine. The 2008 vintage, an excellent one for Brunello, was cooler producing structured racy wines.… Read more
Château Beaulieu, Côteaux d’Aix en Provence (France) 2013
($12, Opici Wines): 
This lacey, light salmon-colored wine could convince any skeptic of the charms of rosé. Dry with a hint of wild strawberries, the 2013 Château Beaulieu has an incredibly refreshing mouth-tingling crisp acidity. With a hint of spice and surprising — for rosé — complexity, it’s a great choice (and a great buy) for the waning days of summer.… Read more
René Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) “Le Clos” 2010
($30, Sherbrooke Cellars Selection): 
Marsannay, the northern most appellation of the Côte d’Or and practically a suburb of Dijon, is one of the last outposts of the “golden slope” where the consumer can find authentic Burgundy at reasonable prices. Most Marsannay is red, but 15 percent of the vineyards are planted to Chardonnay, making it one of the rare white wines from the Côtes de Nuits. … Read more
McManis Family Vineyards, River Junction (Central Valley, California) Chardonnay 2013
($10): This Chardonnay is about as good as it gets for the price. McManis Family Vineyards has been — and continues to be — a leader in well made inexpensive wines. River Junction, essentially McManis Family’s personal AVA since they are the only commercial winery there, is located west of Modesto at the junction of the San Joaquin and Stanislaus Rivers and is cooler than the rest of the Central Valley. … Read more
Bonny Doon Vineyard, Central Coast (California) “Vin Gris de Cigare” 2013
($18): Most rosé is an afterthought. Most of it results from a technique called saignée or bleeding, used to enhance red wine (once a tank of red grapes has been macerated briefly and the liquid has taken on a bit of color). … Read more
Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Private Bin” 2013
($12, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): A stunning bargain, Villa Maria’s “entry level” Sauvignon Blanc is piercing in an attractive way. From its aromatics to its delightful tartness and cutting edge, it awakes the palate. It’s a straightforward wine that may be too angular for some to drink as an aperitif, but its electricity makes it perfect for sushi, Asian fare, or grilled fish dribbled with olive oil. … Read more
Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Chardonnay Taylors Pass Vineyard 2011
($42, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): Villa Maria’s 2011 Taylors Pass Chardonnay stands with New Zealand’s best examples of wine made from that grape. It has an alluring flinty, almost smoky aroma, followed by substantial weight, but no heaviness. The flavors penetrate the palate while paradoxically floating above it. … Read more
Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir Reserve 2008
($45, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): 
It’s rare to find a Pinot Noir with this complexity and refinement at this price. With five years of age, it has developed beautifully. Leafy, even slightly mushroom-y, flavors are in the foreground pushing the bright fruit flavors of a youthful wine into a supporting role. … Read more
Domaine de la Tourmaline, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2013
($12, Cognac One): Open the trunk of your car and load in a case of this wine to combat the heat and humidity of August. As expected from Muscadet, it is bright and fresh with an almost prickly acidity that is truly mouth cleansing. … Read more
Domaine FL, Anjou (Loire Valley, France) “Le Chenin” 2010
($19, Daniel Johnnes Selection): Domaine FL, short for Fournier-Longchamps, has threaded the needle with this wine made from Chenin Blanc. (French appellation laws generally prohibit grape names on labels. Hence, Le Chenin is the proprietary name of the wine.) The wine conveys the fruitiness and roundness–almost a hint of sweetness — that Chenin Blanc delivers supported by a lovely line of acidity that prevents it from being sweet. … Read more
Chapoutier, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Languedoc, France) “Les Vignes de Bila-Haut” 2012
($13, H. B. Wine Merchants): Chapoutier, one of the great producers of Rhone wines, has recently started producing wines in the Languedoc and we consumers are the beneficiaries. This robust red has all the sun-kissed warm fruit flavors you’d expect from the South of France while savory spicy notes act as a foil. … Read more
Achaval Ferrer, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2013
($25, Stoli Group USA): 
To my mind, Malbec is an overrated grape often producing a heavy monotonous red wine. Thankfully, Achaval Ferrer’s is neither. It’s certainly a robust meaty wine, but vibrant acidity keeps it fresh and imparts life. There’s plenty of plumy black fruit — which does make for engaging pairing with charcoal grilled beef — but it’s a black cherry-like tartness in the finish that brings you back for another glass.… Read more
Achaval Ferrer, Mendoza (Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($25, Stoli Group USA): 
Achaval Ferrer produces an easy-to-recommend Malbec and this Cabernet Sauvignon shows they are more than a one-horse show. Their Cabernet has the same energy and acidity of their Malbec, but, as a plus in my mind, more herbal savory notes — even a touch of green olive. … Read more
J Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Estate Grown 2012
($28): It should come as no surprise that J Vineyards makes easy-to-recommend, stylish Chardonnay since they’ve been using that grape — along with Pinot Noir — for their stunning sparkling wines. This Chardonnay has the richness and opulence often associated with California wines without being overdone. … Read more
MacMurray Estate Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Gris 2013
($20): 
Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are two names for the same grape. Nonetheless, wines labeled Pinot Gris are typically denser and riper than those labeled Pinot Grigio. MacMurray Estate Vineyards has split the difference nicely with their Russian River bottling. … Read more
Jordan, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2012
($30): 
Jordan is one of California’s iconic wineries lauded for their stylish Cabernet Sauvignon, which evolve splendidly with bottle age, as last year’s 40 year vertical tasting showed. Jordan released their first Chardonnay in 1979, three years after their first Cabernet. … Read more
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Karia” 2012
($34): Here’s another example of a renowned Napa Valley winery that has made their reputation on red wines turning out a fine Chardonnay. In 1996, more than two decades after Warren Winiarski founded Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, he purchased the Arcadia Vineyard, which had originally been developed by Grgich Hills and was the source for some of their fine Chardonnays. … Read more
Toad Hollow, Mendocino County (California) Unoaked Chardonnay “Francine’s Selection” 2012
($14): Unoaked Chardonnay is all the rage. Sadly many are vapid and paradoxically wind up reinforcing the virtue of a little bit of oak aging. In contrast, Toad Hollow manages to pull it off. A delicate but distinct crisp green apple fruitiness is apparent in this appealing unoaked Chardonnay. … Read more
Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Calatayud (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha Rosé 2013
($14): Las Rocas — as it’s known — is one of those reliable producers who consistently produce a fabulous array of well-priced wines. Even their rosé — readers know that’s not my favorite category — is stunning. It draws you in with a seductive pink color and follows with bracingly vibrant, almost spicy, notes.… Read more
Quinta do Vale Meão, Douro (Portugal) “Meandro” 2011
($27, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirit): More and more, we are seeing dry red wines coming from Portugal’s Douro region, the home of Port. And the more I taste, the more I like what I’m seeing. Although the Quinta do Vale Meão was established in 1998, a principal, Javier de Olazabal, was until then, the managing director of A.… Read more
Quinta de Azevedo, Vinho Verde (Portugal) 2013
($8, Evaton, Inc): The sommelier at Aldea, a splendid Portuguese/Spanish restaurant in Manhattan, introduced me to this wine, at $10 a glass (plus tax and tip). Was I outraged when I discovered its average retail price of $8 a bottle? Emphatically, no. … Read more
Attems, IGP Venezia Giulia (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2013
($17, Folio Fine Wine Partners): This wine explains the popularity of Pinot Grigio. Subtle floral quality and hint of peachiness all supported and amplified by a zingy backbone. This is the real thing. A versatile wine, it’s well suited as a stand-alone aperitif or, because of its depth, as an accompaniment to grilled striped bass or similar seafood. … Read more
Alamos, Mendoza (Argentina) Chardonnay 2012
($13): 
This “Goldilocks” kind of Chardonnay is a wonderful value. Not too heavy — nor too light — it has enough acidity to carry it with food but not too much verve that would disqualify it from being enjoyed as an aperitif. … Read more
Garzón, Uruguay – Sauvignon Blanc 2013
($17, Blends Inc): 
Garzón’s rendition of Sauvignon Blanc is aromatic, cutting and edgy. Its aggressive style is not for the faint of heart, but those who love chest-thumping “look at me” kind of wines will love its clean racy style and slightly bitter finish. … Read more
Garzón, Uruguay – Albariño 2013
($17, Blends Inc): 
Wines from Uruguay lag well behind those from Chile and Argentina in terms of visibility on the US market in large measure because the country has only about 20,000 acres under vine, compared to over 500,000 acres in neighboring Argentina.… Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Olivet Lane 2011
($60): Wow is the first impression after tasting this wine. Judging from this Chardonnay, Merry Edwards is as talented with that grape as she is with her exceptional Pinot Noir. Although she’s made small quantities of Chardonnay from the Olivet Lane vineyard for a few years, the 2011 is only the second year it’s been available outside of the tasting room. … Read more
Bonny Doon Vineyard, Central Coast (California) Albariño Kristy Vineyard & Jespersen Ranch 2013
($18): Bonny Doon has captured the enchanting essence of Albariño — a bracing grapefruit rind bitterness and citrus zing balanced by ripeness without heaviness. A hint of creaminess adds an unusual — for Albariño — luxuriousness. It’s a masterful balance of ying and yang.… Read more
J Vineyards & Winery, California (United States) Pinot Gris 2013
($16): J, known best for their stellar sparkling wines, have made Pinot Gris since 1996. Indeed, they have three bottlings — this one, one from Russian River Valley grapes and a single vineyard one. They’ve pretty much nailed this variety. The “California” bottling has subtle peach-like nuances, bright acidity, and an appealing hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Alamos, Salta (Argentina) Torrontés 2013
($13): 
Alamos’ Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white grape, has an engaging Muscat-like fragrance. Fresh and clean, it finishes with the barest hint of sweetness, but buttressing acidity prevents it from being cloying. Grab a bottle — or two — this summer the next time you’re having sushi or spiced Asian fare.… Read more
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Finger Lakes (New York) Grüner Veltliner 2012
($15): 
I’ve had this wine twice in one week — and was impressed each time. Tasted blind at the Critics Challenge International Wine Competition, I awarded it a platinum medal because of its grace, precision, minerality and riveting acidity. Without realizing I had scored it so highly at the competition, I ordered a bottle at dinner in New York. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Paris Tasting” 2011
($91): 
At $91 a bottle, the price gets your attention, even though it’s not California’s most expensive Chardonnay (Marcassin Estate takes that honor). But after tasting the 2011 Grgich Hills Estate Paris Tasting Chardonnay, it’s the wine, not the price, you remember. … Read more
Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley (California) Brut NV
($23): 
Roederer Estate consistently produces one of this country’s best, if not the best, sparkling wine. It’s easy to understand why they regularly make such high quality sparkling wine. First, they are a subsidiary of Champagne Roederer, one of France’s leading Champagne producers. … Read more
José Antonio Mokoroa, Getariako Txakolina (Pays Basque, Spain) 2013
($14, Polaner Selections): The Txakoli (“Chok-o-lee”) from Spain are the perfect antidote for summer’s heat and humidity. With a refreshing and lively fizz, this low (11.5% stated alcohol) wine from Mokoroa is just what you want when the temperature climbs. The hint of effervescence, initially surprising if one is unfamiliar with these wines, adds an unexpected charm. … Read more
Mionetto, Prosecco Treviso (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV
($14, Mionetto USA): Prosecco, the fresh and fruity bubbly from northeastern Italy, is the perfect summertime sparkler. The designation Treviso indicates that all the grapes came from the Treviso province, which is the historical center of the Prosecco zone. Mionetto’s Brut, clean and crisp, has a refreshing fruitiness and roundness without obvious sweetness. … Read more
Mionetto, Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry NV
($19, Mionetto USA): Valdobbiadene is a village within the Prosecco zone in northeastern Italy that historically has been recognized as home to better grapes because of its hillside vineyards. The vineyards of Valdobbiadene escape the humidity of the plains and are cooler at night, which maintains the acidity of the grapes and imparts greater finesse to the wines. … Read more
Tenuta Perolla, IGP Toscana (Italy) Vermentino 2012
($12, San Felice, USA): San Felice, one of Tuscany’s great red wine producers, also makes this vibrant white from mostly (85%) Vermentino. A touch of Sauvignon Blanc makes it even more energetic. It’s a thoughtful blend because the combination of its lively character and depth make it an ideal accompaniment for simple summer seafood. … Read more
Banfi, Alta Langa DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Cuvée Aurora” Rosé Brut 2010
($32): This Rosé, made entirely from Pinot Noir, has the intensity of flavor you’d expect from a wine made from red grapes and a gorgeous rosy pink color. Made by the classic — that is, Champagne — method of a secondary fermentation in the bottle (metodo classico, in Italian), an elegant suaveness balances its power. … Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast) Sauvignon Blanc 2013
($22): Santa Maria Valley is one of the many coastal valleys in California that runs east to west, which means that cooling winds from the Pacific Ocean moderate the temperature and make it an ideal site for grape varieties such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, that thrive in “cooler” weather.… Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast) Chardonnay 2011
($37): Let’s hope more California wineries follow the style of Presqu’ile’s 2011 Chardonnay. This restrained wine displays a gorgeous combination of richness and energy. Its subtle richness becomes increasingly apparent with each sip–it sneaks up on you as opposed to hitting you over the head. … Read more
Mount Nelson, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($18, Wilson Daniels): Ludovico Antinori, who with his brother Piero established Mount Nelson Winery in 2003, knows a thing or two about Sauvignon Blanc, having made an outstanding one at Ornellaia in Bolgheri for many years. In addition to the typical, easily recognizable pungency and bite you’d expect from a Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region on the northern tip of New Zealand’s south island, the 2012 Mount Nelson has a subtle, but mouth-filling creaminess. … Read more
Kumeu River, Aukland (New Zealand) Chardonnay ‘Village’ 2011
($20, Wilson Daniels): 
I’ve not tasted all the Chardonnays from New Zealand, so I can’t say that Kumeu River is that country’s top producer of that varietal. But I can say that I haven’t found a better one from that country yet. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay Coddington Vineyard 2011
($45, Wilson Daniels): 
Kumeu River has bottled this Chardonnay separately since 2006 because it believes it is unique. Having recently tasted the entire line-up of Chardonnays, I agree. Indeed, all its single-vineyard bottlings are different and show that the French don’t have a monopoly of the concept of terroir.… Read more
I Saltari, Valpolicella Superiore (Veneto, Italy) Le Vigne di Turáno 2010
($18, Banfi Vintners): Sartori, one of the Veneto’s top producers, owns the I Saltari estate, which helps explain why the wines are so stunning. Andrea Sartori attributes the exceptional quality of this single-vineyard wine to careful viticulture coupled with low yields. … Read more
Castello Banfi, Toscana IGT (Italy) Cum Laude 2010
($37, Banfi Vintners): Castello Banfi, best known for its stunning Brunello di Montalcino, also produces an array of “Super Tuscan” wines, one of which is Cum Laude, an unconventional blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese and Syrah. The 2010 Cum Laude may be their best ever. … Read more
Principessa Gavia, Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2013
($15, Banfi Vintners): Though Piedmont is best known for its regal red wines, Barolo and Barbaresco, the region is home to a noteworthy white, Gavi, which takes its name from the town where the Cortese grape grows best. The 2013 from Principessa Gavia entices you with its delicate aromas of white flowers.… Read more
Cerulli Spinozzi, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane (Abruzzo, Italy) “Torre Migliori” 2008
($17, Banfi Vintners): Cerulli Spinozzi’s Torre Migliori has all of the concentration that Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is known for, but with a complexity and elegance that is rarely seen in wines made from that grape. It’s easy to see why Colline Teramane is Abruzzo’s sole DOCG. … Read more