($40, Tom Eddy Wines): Cherubino was the winemaker at Houghton, a leading producer in Western Australia, and a senior winemaker at New Zealand’s prestigious Craggy Range, before setting out on his own. Judging from this, his first Shiraz, he will succeed at this endeavor as well. … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
The Lane, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Shiraz Viognier “Off the Leash, Max” 2006
($25, Tom Eddy Wines): Australia is well-known for its off-the-wall naming of wines, but this one wins the prize. It’s hard to know the name of the wine from reading the label. Is it Max, or Off the Leash? Thankfully, the quality and refinement of this Shiraz Viognier blend is clear. … Read more
McWilliams of Coonawarra, Coonawarra (South Australia) Shiraz “Old Vine, Stentiford’s Reserve” 2002
($55, McWilliams of Australia): 
The vines for this wine, some of which are still producing fruit, were first planted in the Laira Vineyard in 1896 by Captain Stentiford, an English sea captain. McWilliams has avoided the temptation to make an over-the-top Shiraz from low-yielding vines that produce concentrated fruit. … Read more
MacRostie, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($30): MacRostie used a combination of its own Wildcat Mountain Estate and purchased fruit for this stylish wine. An alluring earthiness marries nicely with bright raspberry fruit flavors and is balanced by good acidity and mild tannins. It carries the 14.2% alcohol nicely.… Read more
Château Thieuley, Bordeaux (France) 2005
($12, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): A gorgeous blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, it shows the combination of grace and ripeness that is the hallmark of the 2005 vintage. Unusually complex for a wine of this price, it has nuances of earth and other non-fruit flavors to complement the fruit flavors.… Read more
Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) Brut “La Grande Dame” 1998
($165, Moet Hennessy USA): More forward than the fabulous 1996 Grande Dame, this is one of the rare times I would recommend drinking Grande Dame upon release, instead of cellaring it for a few years. Its opulence and softer-than-usual profile makes it ideal for enjoying now. … Read more
Terrazas de los Andes, Mendoza (Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2004
($20, Moet Hennessy USA): Argentina, like Chile a decade or two ago, has captured American consumers’ attention because it makes solid, less-than-$10-a-bottle wines. But as in Chile, Argentine producers can deliver more than you’d expect at a slightly higher price level. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos St. Jacques 2005
($129, Kobrand): This is a Grand Cru wine in all respects except the label. The story goes that when the locals were classifying the vineyards in the 1930s as either Grand or Premier Cru, the Clos St. Jacques was set to be included as a Grand Cru. … Read more
Vincent Girardin, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Renardes 2005
($88, Vineyard Brands): Girardin’s style favors the forward fruity side of Burgundy rather than the earthy leafy side. Impressive, almost flamboyant aromas, precede the packed, ripe flavors–from fruit, not oak–that are the predominant features of this silky wine. Nicely balanced, it shows the ripeness of the vintage without going overboard.… Read more
Maison Faiveley, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Corton Faiveley 2005
($216, Wilson Daniels): Faiveley owns about 7.5 acres of the Grand Cru vineyard, Le Corton, near the summit of the Corton hill just below the protective shield of trees. It’s almost always their best wine and at tastings is invariably served after the more powerful ones from the Côte de Nuits. … Read more
Maison Faiveley, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de l’Ecu 2005
($85, Wilson Daniels): This outstanding wine from Beaune has exceptional length and finesse. Fine tannins harmonize with bright, ripe, penetrating fruit and earth flavors. The layers of flavor convey depth, but there’s no heaviness here. 94 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2007… Read more
Kendall-Jackson, California (United States) Merlot Vintners Reserve 2004
($18): KJ — as it is affectionately called in the trade — obtains grapes from all over California to fashion this classy Merlot. Not overwrought, the hint of leafy quality characteristic of that grape complements the bright red- and black-fruit elements. … Read more
Hogue Cellars, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
($11): An extraordinary value, Hogue Cellars’ 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon has grace and finesse rarely seen at this price. Fine, polished tannins support, but don’t overwhelm, the bright black cherry fruit flavors and nuances of herbs and smoke. A simple wine at first blush, the flavors expand and the complexity becomes apparent over time as the wine sits in the glass.… Read more
Jaboulet, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Jalets” 2004
($23, Wildman): Jaboulet, one the Rhône’s most reliable and top producers, makes two wines, this one and one labeled Thalabert, from Crozes-Hermitage, the flatter land surrounding the more prestigious Hermitage appellation. Les Jalets has a smoothness and elegance surrounding its characteristic peppery spicy core. … Read more
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (California) Merlot 2004
($18): With so many disappointing Merlots on the market, it’s especially gratifying to find one like Clos LaChance’s. A lovely mixture of herbs and black fruit is immediately apparent in the nose and follows on the palate. A hint of creamy oakiness is well integrated and adds to the allure. … Read more
Buena Vista, Carneros (California) Merlot 2004
($21): This wine explains why Merlot is so popular. Attractively gamey and earthy flavors–not just fruit–come across in the nose and carry onto the palate and are balanced by supple tannins. Not a ‘fruit bomb,’ its layers of flavor persist throughout the finish.… Read more
Allan Scott, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2007
($17, Baystate Wine Company): The cutting–almost electrifying–edge emblematic of Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough region of New Zealand blasts from the glass. But the real treat is flavor in the mid-palate, often a void in many New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Its laser-like character is carried nicely into the finish.… Read more
Kendall Jackson, California (United States) Meritage “Vintners Reserve” 2004
($13): Kendall Jackson has a seemingly never-ending ability to blend wines from throughout California to achieve excellent value offerings. Comprised of almost equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot–with a touch of Cabernet Franc thrown in–this bottling has sweet fruit balanced by mild tannins and just enough complexity to keep it interesting. … Read more
Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2004
($26, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): Over the years, Guigal, one of the Rhone’s best producers, has expanded his portfolio by selective purchases of competitors’ vineyards. He now produces a marvelous Crozes-Hermitage at about only twice the price of his basic, good-value Cotes du Rhone, which makes it another excellent buy. … Read more
Château Recougne, Bordeaux Superiéur (Bordeaux, France) 2005
($15, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): This is one of many wines that demonstrates the tremendous value to be found in the 2005 red Bordeaux. It delivers more enjoyment that its modest appellation, Bordeaux Superiéur, suggests. Meaty nuances combine with ripe fruit flavors in this silky wine. … Read more
Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) Brune et Blonde 2003
($85, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): The quality and resulting deserved popularity of this wine–along with 
a sinking dollar–has increased its price dramatically. Nonetheless, the Guigal’s sensational 2003 Brune et Blonde, clearly one of his best ever, should be in every Rhône-lover’s cellar. … Read more
Archery Summit, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Red Hills Estate 2004
($85): The difference between Archery Summit’s Red Hills Estate and Arcus Pinot Noir shows that the French don’t have a monopoly on the concept of terroir. The Red Hills Estate is a more succulent, much riper, fruitier expression of Pinot Noir, conveying less of the earthy, woodsy character of that grape.… Read more
Archery Summit, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Arcus Estate 2004
($85): 
Anna Matzinger, Archery Summit’s winemaker since 2002, has done a tremendous job with this wine over the years. The 2004 continues the tradition of a glorious combination of mouth-filling flavors of earth and fruit. Its complexity and delicacy continues to dazzle through the long finish.… Read more
Archery Summit, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Archery Summit Estate 2004
($150): This, the flagship cuvée from this top-notch Pinot Noir producer, is a notch above their other excellent offerings. The Archery Summit Estate bottling combines the succulence of the Red Hills Estate bottling with the earthy complexity of the wine from their Arcus vineyard. … Read more
Tapestry, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz Baker Gully Vineyard 2005
($12, Scott Street Portfolio): A subtle peppery component in this wine acts as an attractive 
counterpoint to the very ripe, plumy flavors characteristic of Aussie Shiraz. Another plus is an appealing freshness in the finish that balances the fruity ripeness. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2007
Mad Fish, Western Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2004
($14, Bluewater Wine Co.): Mad Fish, the second label of the well-regarded Howard Park Wines, consistently offers good values. This harmonious Shiraz combines the peppery with the plumy flavors that that grape delivers. Keeping with its Western Australian origins, it is not an in-your-face kind of wine. … Read more
Mad Fish, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling 2006
($14, Bluewater Wine Co.): Virtually bone dry, this impressive Riesling has a touch of earthy minerality complemented by a zing in the finish. It’s another good example of refreshing–and unique–Riesling from Western Australia. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2007… Read more
Louis Jadot, Beaujolais Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2006
($12, Kobrand): Jadot has made a substantial investment in Beaujolais with their single vineyard wines from their estates in Moulin-a-Vent, Brouilly, Fleurie and Morgon. Their commitment shows even in this wine, their lowest level Beaujolais. Sure, it delivers plenty of the berry-like fruitiness, characteristic of wines from the region. … Read more
Santa Rita, Maipo Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Casa Real” 1999
($61, Palm Bay Imports): This is Santa Rita’s flagship wine, and though the winery has released later vintages (including a tight but tasty 2003), the American importer is still selling the now fully ready to drink 1999. It’s delicious. With a compelling bouquet reminiscent of superior Bordeaux, and sweet, ripe fruit flavors, it offers impressive depth and length along with great balance. … Read more
Herzog, Edna Valley (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($26): Herzog has fashioned a Kosher Pinot Noir with delicacy and class. Don’t let its lightish color deceive you, because it packs plenty of spiced, strawberry-like flavors. 86 Michael Apstein Sep 4, 2007… Read more
Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses (Burgundy, France) Les Boutonnières 2005
($27, Domaines et Saveurs Collection): A potential drawback to some white Burgundies from 2005 is a lack 
of uplifting acidity. That’s not a problem with this wine because the village of Auxey-Duresses lies in a cool microclimate that prevented the warmth of 2005, responsible for the great concentration and intensity, from sapping this wine’s acidity. … Read more
Domaine Gallois, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Combe Aux Moines 2005
($100): The demand for the marvelous 2005 vintage in red Burgundy has pushed all the prices higher. You may shudder at the price–after all, this is premier, not grand, cru–but you’ll smile after you taste the wine. Gallois’ Combe Aux Moines delivers those classic Gevrey-Chambertin earthy, woodsy touches mixed with a hint of smoke and plenty of black fruit. … Read more
Calera, Central Coast (California) Pinot Noir Mount Harlan Cuvée 2004
($28): Calera is one of California’s top Pinot Noir producers. This bottling comes mostly from vines–usually young–on Mount Harlan that produce fruit for wines that are meant for immediate consumption. This ripe, big style of Pinot Noir conveys considerable finesse and complexity in the form of minerality atop ripe black fruit flavors. … Read more
Calera, Central Coast (California) Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard 2004
($40): A significant step up from their Mount Harlan Cuvée, Ryan Vineyard Pinot Noir has far more complexity and better balance. Smokey ash-like flavors in addition to ripe black and red fruit flavors show its California–as opposed to Burgundian–origins and add to its allure. … Read more
Luna Beberide, Castilla y León (Spain) “Tierras de Luna” 2003
($30, Grapes of Spain): Inclusion of Cabernet and Merlot in this blend gives the wine a slightly New Worldish style, but the rich complexity imparted by Mencia comes through loud and clear. Good power and remarkable acidity and lift- — considering the number of flabby wines from 2003 — equals an excellent choice for hearty fare this fall.… Read more
Luna Beberide, Castilla y León (Spain) Reserva 2003
($50, Grapes of Spain): The exotic complexity of Mencia is more apparent in this blend. Attractive creamy oak is still evident, which is not surprising since the wine spent 2-plus-years in barrel. Polished, with good structure, this wine needs another year or two to come together.… Read more
Luna Beberide, Castilla y León (Spain) Reserva 2004
($60, Grapes of Spain): Don’t miss this wine when it reaches our shores. A wonderfully balanced combination of exotic smoky elements, bright fruit, a patina of oak and fine structure makes this wine a delight to taste, and more importantly, to drink.… Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Pétalos del Bierzo” 2006
($23, The Rare Wine Company): Made from purchased grapes grown in villages neighboring Corullón as well as from Palacios’ vineyards, this has a rich combination of floral notes and stony minerality supported by fine tannins. It carries the 14% alcohol effortlessly. … Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Exaltos” 2004
($27, Classical Wines): Bigger still than either the Albares or Baltos bottlings from Dominio 
de Tares, the Exaltos has attractive rusticity to boot. At this stage, the American oak is still apparent and the wine would benefit with another year or so of age to allow it to come together.… Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y Leon, Spain) “Albares” 2005
($11, Classical Wines): This 100% unoaked Mencia, made especially for the U.S. market, is a terrific buy. With lovely aromatics, fruit and little tannin, it has a Beaujolais-like style and sensibility, but with more substance. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007… Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Baltos” 2005
($15, Classical Wines): 
Made from slightly older vines and aged briefly in American and French oak barriques, the Baltos is a more muscular version of Dominio de Tares’s Albares. The oak doesn’t dominate; rather it imparts an attractive creaminess that balances the mild tannic structure. … Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Bembibre” 2003
($46, Classical Wines): Made from 60-plus-year-old vines, this big and juicy wine is remarkably well balanced for a product of the scorching 2003 vintage. Nuances of tar, meaty overtones and black fruit are combined in this exotically flavored wine that is terrific to drink now.… Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Tares P3” 2003
($78, Classical Wines): The P3, from a single plot of 100-year-old vines, has gorgeous aromas of minerals and black fruit. Plush and powerful, it’s nonetheless a graceful wine. The heat of the vintage probably explains a slightly stewed character to the fruit, but it still retains brightness in the finish.… Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Bembibre” 2004
($46, Classical Wines): Brighter with better uplifting acidity than the 2003 Bembibre, the 2004 is nonetheless more awkward at this young stage. A captivating smoky, earthy nose mixed with tar and pepper in the finish suggests it will evolve nicely, and even after just 30 minutes in the glass, it softens. … Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Moncerbal 2005
($100, The Rare Wine Company): 
From a higher perch with rockier soil, the Moncerbal comes across as more of a ‘mountain’ wine than the San Martín. Cherry-like flavors fight through firm, pure minerality. Its hard edge, apparent at this stage, needs time to soften and allow its true complexity to shine. … Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Villa de Corullón 2004
($50, The Rare Wine Company): Despite packing lots of power, the Villa Corullón retains its elegance and class. Made entirely from estate grapes grown in vineyards scattered throughout the village, it has added spice and minerality complemented by freshness of fruit. … Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Tares P3” 2004
($78, Classical Wines): 
Fresher with better balance that the 2003 P3, the 2004 P3 is a real success. It has the same alluring nose and delivers the same combination of power and plushness, but without a hint of over-extraction or over-ripeness.… Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) San Martín 2005
($100, The Rare Wine Company): With an annual production of less than 2,000 bottles, Palacios’ ‘single-vineyard wines’ are tough to find. Technically not sourced from a single vineyard, but rather several parcels all located on the San Martín hill, this wine is silky and plush with a fabulous nose of violets and spice. … Read more
Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) 2003
($70, Grapes of Spain): The 2003 Paixar has remarkable class especially considering the difficulties making wine across Europe in that hot dry year. It retains the uncanny combination of polish and power without being over-extracted or overdone. The family resemblance to the 2001 is clear.… Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) La Faraona 2005
($160, The Rare Wine Company): La Faraona is a single vineyard of just over one acre, and the highest in the village of Corullón. Minerals and a core of ripe sweet ripe balance the firm tannins that give it a clear ‘mountain’ character. … Read more