($22, Moet Hennessy USA): Marques de Grinon’s estate, Dominio de Valdepusa, is considered one of Spain’s vinous gems. It was Spain’s first Denominación de Origen (DO) Pago, or officially recognized single estate. (To date there are still only two other estates). … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) “Grange” 2002
($250): The release of Penfolds’ Grange each year on May 1st, after 5 years of aging, is a much anticipated event in Australia. Peter Gago, the winemaker responsible for Grange, says the 2002 is like the 1990 and 1996, ‘it’s all about poise and balance.’ … Read more
Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bin 707” 2004
($88, Foster’s Wine Estates): Penfolds’ Bin 707, their best Cabernet, excels in 2004. The fruit comes from vineyards in Coonawarra and Barossa, including their famed Block 42, home to the world’s oldest Cabernet vines. According to Peter Gago, Penfolds’ head winemaker, the Barossa provides particularly attractive Cabernet in cooler years like 2004. … Read more
Wynns, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
($18, Foster’s Wine Estates): Frequently known simply as Wynns’ Black Label in Australia, this is consistently one of that country’s great Cabernets. It’s track record for aging is matched only by a few of Penfolds’ legendary wines–Grange, St. Henri and Bin 707–though all of those ring up at considerably higher prices. … Read more
Wynns, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “John Riddoch” 2004
($60, Foster’s Wine Estates): Wynns’ best Cabernet, the John Riddoch bottling is made entirely from fruit grown on their vineyards in the heart of Coonawarra. It’s a barrel selection of their best Cabernet, according to Sue Hodder, Wynns’ senior winemaker. She’s not looking for the biggest style wine when she selects barrels, and will eliminate those with hard tannins because she is looking for parcels that will make an elegant, polished kind of wine. … Read more
Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2004
($17, Brown Forman): In addition to Riesling, Clare Valley is known for producing fine, ripe, powerful Shiraz because of it’s warmer location. This one is deceptive because it has leathery and peppery flavors I usually associated with Shiraz grown in cooler climes. … Read more
Matua Valley Wines, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Estate Series “Paretai” 2006
($18, Foster’s Wine Estates): Matua’s Paretai–which means river bank–is another extraordinary value from this producer. Their best Sauvignon Blanc, it has unusual texture and weight without sacrificing rapier-like acidity. Minerality and creaminess are intertwined creating complexity rarely seen at this price.… Read more
Matua Valley Wines, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Estate Series” 2005
($20, Foster’s Wine Estates): The Marlborough region is battling Martinborough and Central Otago for the title of Pinot Noir capital of New Zealand. If the region keeps producing wines like this and at this price, it will be declared the winner. … Read more
Wakefield, South Australia (Australia) Riesling “Jaraman” 2005
($27, Brown Forman): Two-thirds of the fruit for this wine comes from Clare Valley and one third from the Eden Valley, but US labeling requirements prohibit dual appellations, so the wine is labeled simply South Australia. The Clare Valley produces more overt Rieslings, while Eden Valley Rieslings are known for their finesse and precision. … Read more
Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling 2005
($17, Brown Forman): Wakefield has fashioned a vibrant, bone dry Riesling with long, limey flavors from grapes grown in South Australia’s Clare Valley, north of the Barossa. Despite its northern locale, which should make it too hot (remember north equals heat Down Under) for a delicate variety like Riesling, the diurnal temperature variation in the Clare produces riveting, lively Rieslings. … Read more
Matua Valley Wines, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($12, Foster’s Wine Estates): With the soaring popularity of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, it is increasingly difficult to find good, let alone terrific, ones at this price. So don’t miss this one. Although New Zealand’s best and most vibrant Sauvignon Blancs come from the Marlborough region, located on the South Island, it was Matua who started it all when they planted Sauvignon Blanc in 1970 at their home base, just west of Auckland on the North Island. … Read more
Perrin et Fils, Vacqueyras (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Christins” 2005
($22, Vineyard Brands): Vacqueyras is a village in the southern Rhône Valley, formerly under the Côtes du Rhône Villages umbrella, that has convinced authorities that it makes more distinctive wines than the southern Rhône norm and should have its own appellation. … Read more
Perrin et Fils, Rasteau (Rhône Valley, France) “L’Andeol” 2005
($19, Vineyard Brands): Rasteau is one of the 18 villages in the southern Rhone Valley that are capable of making more distinctive wine than the average for the region. Hence, it and the other 17 carry the village name on the label–as well as the appellation, Côtes du Rhône Villages–as opposed to the more anonymous, ‘Côtes du Rhone’ designation. … Read more
Perrin et Fils, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Reserve 2005
($11, Vineyard Brands): In addition to owning Château Beaucastel, one of the best properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Perrin family runs a top-notch négociant business buying grapes or wine from growers with whom they have long term relationships. The Perrin Reserve Côtes du Rhône–always reliable–is even better in the 2005 vintage. … Read more
La Vieille Ferme, Côtes de Ventoux (Rhône Valley, France) 2005
($8, Vineyard Brands): As wines from the Côtes du Rhone appellation increase in price, producers look to less acclaimed nearby areas for similarly styled wines at lower prices. This wine from Côtes de Ventoux–simple but luscious–fits the bill as a satisfying Southern Rhône wine. … Read more
Clos Pegase, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir Mitsuko’s Vineyard 2005
($33): Clos Pegase should be complimented for restraint with this stylish Pinot Noir. With more and more Pinots tasting like Pinot Syrah, it’s encouraging to see producers strive for restrained elegance rather than over-ripe intensity. Ripe raspberry-like fruitiness is the predominant impression, but black cherry nuances appear in the finish.… Read more
Whitehaven, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2005
($30, Whitehaven Wine Co. USA): Whitehaven Wine Company): This good, solid Pinot Noir is filled with bright cherry flavors balanced by excellent acidity. It lacks complexity at this stage, but is certainly satisfying now and I suspect it will evolve nicely over the next 6 months.… Read more
Craggy Range, Martinborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2006
($21, Kobrand): Craggy Range makes some of the best Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand. Combine their consistency with a superior vintage, such as 2006, and you have this remarkable wine. They have achieved a lovely balance between herbaceousness, a flinty minerality, and cutting citric acidity. … Read more
Mouton Cadet, Bordeaux (France) 2004
($12, North Lake Wines): This classic Bordeaux blend of two-thirds Merlot and one-third Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc delivers more substance and elegance than you would expect from a ‘popular’ brand. Its suave tannins balance the moderate fruit and tobacco flavors. … Read more
Altano, Douro (Portugal) 2004
($7, Vineyard Brands): For a couple of decades, Port producers have been investing time and money to produce dry red table (non-fortified) wines from grapes traditionally grown in the Douro Valley, home to Port production. Their efforts are paying off. This attractive blend of classic grapes used for Port (Tinto Roriz and Touriga Franca, 40 and 60%, respectively) has produced a succulent, yet spicy, balanced wine.… Read more
Cousino-Macul, Maipo Valley (Chile) “Finis Terrae” 2004
($17, Billington Imports): This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot is the flagship wine of Cousino-Macul, one of Chile’s leading wineries. I am continually amazed at how this winery produces such outstanding wine at such reasonable prices. It has understated class and finesse despite the 14% alcohol.… Read more
Spice Route, Swartland (South Africa) Mourvedre 2005
($20, Vineyard Brands): This South African Mourvedre conveys lovely earthy, herbal flavors in a supple package. It’s spicy and full-bodied without being overdone. 87 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2007… Read more
Porcupine Ridge, Costal Region (South Africa) Shiraz 2006
($13, Vineyard Brands): Earthy flavors mix with notes of spice in this boisterous wine. The tannins–ripe and unobtrusive–help balance the intensity. This is strong Shiraz, best enjoyed in cold weather or with hearty meals. 87 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2007… Read more
Craggy Range, Gimblett Gravels (Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand) Te Kahu Vineyard 2004
($25, Kobrand): Craggy Range emphasizes the uniqueness of place–like the French–and focuses their efforts on producing wines from individual (and presumably distinctive) vineyards. They emphasize this philosophy with the labeling: the precise composition of the blend–in this case Merlot, 77%, Cabernet Sauvignon, 11%, Malbec and Cabernet Franc, 6% each–is found on the back label. … Read more
Clos du Val, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2005
($28): Despite this wine’s ripeness, the overall impression of this wonderfully balanced wine is one of restrained fruitiness because the tannins lend structure often lacking in California Pinot Noir. Subtle cherry flavors are only one of the several red fruit flavors than come though. … Read more
Perrin & Fils, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) Blanc “Les Sinards” 2005
($35, Vineyard Brands): With only about 5% of the area’s production devoted to white wine–and much of that heavy and unappealing–one sometimes wonders why anyone bothers with white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This wine is why. A blend of 75% Grenache Blanc and 25% Clairette, it has the hint of apricot common in many whites from the southern Rhône, and good intensity, but without a trace of heaviness. … Read more
Osborne, Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Merlot/Tempranillo “Solaz” 2005
($8, W. J. Deutsch and Sons): This two-thirds Merlot and one-third Tempranillo blend is a charming wine. Supple, but not soft, the acidity keeps it fresh so you can keep tasting the black-cherry flavors. If it were Italian, I’d call it a good ‘pizza’ wine, but since it’s from Spain, think of it as a wine for tapas. … Read more
Marqués de Riscal, Rioja (Spain) Gran Reserva 1999
($37, Shaw-Ross International): One of the great things about Spanish wines is that many producers age them for years–sometimes even decades–before release so the consumer has an opportunity to taste the complexity bottle aging imparts. This 1999 Gran Reserva, the current release, still has tannins of youth, but mature leather and coffee nuances peak out from under fresh dark fruit flavors. … Read more
Michel Redde, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Les Tuilières” 2004
($25, Kobrand): Redde has captured the chalky minerality characteristic of Sauvignon Blanc grown in Sancerre with this wine. While there’s none of the pungent herbaceousness often seen with Sauvignon Blanc grown in the New World, there’s still plenty of vibrancy. It’s spicy and cutting without being shrill.… Read more
Pascal Jolivet, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2005
($26, Wildman): Jolivet owns about 70 acres of vines split evenly between the neighboring wine regions, Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre, that face one another across the Loire Valley. Made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc, his 2005 Pouilly-Fumé shows the minerality and verve of the region, and shines because the flavors are not distorted by barrel fermentation or aging. … Read more
Emiliana, Central Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Natura” 2005
($10, Banfi Imports): Emiliana, an affiliate of Concha y Toro, one of Chile’s best wineries, is making a name for itself with wines made from organically grown grapes bottled under the Natura label. With over 3,500 acres in several of Chile’s prime grape growing regions — Maipo Valley, Casablanca and Colchagua — they must be one of the largest, if not the largest, growers of organic grapes in the world. … Read more
The Wishing Tree, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay “Unoaked” 2006
($10, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): I usually avoid unoaked Chardonnay because with rare exception — Chablis comes to mind — a little oak aging enhances the wines. But John Larchet, who has his own label, The Wishing Tree, in addition to importing Australian wine under The Australian Premium Wine Collection, suggested I try this one. … Read more
Hill of Content, Clare Valley / McLaren Vale (South Australia) Grenache Shiraz 2003
($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Despite being the minority of the blend — 20 percent — the weight of black fruit from Shiraz barrels through in this riper, more overt wine. There’s smokiness along with a taste of succulent sour cherries. … Read more
Pike’s, Clare Valley (South Australia) SMG “The Assemblage” 2003
($21, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): This blend of 56% Syrah, 27% Mourvedre and 17% Grenache is a dense and very ripe Châteauneuf-du-Pape-like wine. The elevation of the Clare Valley — its lowest point is 1,000 feet — accounts for dramatic day/night temperature fluctuations, which allows the grapes — and the wine — to maintain acidity. … Read more
Black Billy, Fleurieu Peninsula (South Australia) Pinot Gris 2006
($15, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): One of the members of the Hazelgrove family, a famous farming family, has re-established themselves in the wine business after the family sold the name. The lovely texture and viscosity of this wine makes it definitely a Pinot Gris, not a Pinot Grigio. … Read more
Fire Block, Watervale (Clare Valley, South Australia) Grenache “Old Vine” 2003
($19, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): It’s rare for a young wine to deliver mature flavors, but this 100% Grenache, aged in old oak barrels, does. It has an alluring combination of bright raspberries — characteristic of Clare Valley Grenache I’m told — spice and hints of caramel, which I usually associated with older, developed wines.… Read more
King Estate, Oregon (USA) Pinot Gris 2005
($16): The 2005 vintage of this always reliable wine tastes delicious, with bright pear fruit flavors, sufficient acidity for balance, and a long, lingering finish. It seems tailor-made for al fresco springtime dining. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 5, 2007… Read more
Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2004
($12, ExCellars): Marcel Guigal and his son, Philippe, oversee the winemaking at this stellar firm, which was started by Marcel’s father, Etienne, just after World War II. Guigal is probably best known for their small-production–300 case–expensive ($200+ a bottle) single vineyard wines from the Côte Rôtie, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque. … Read more
Mas Romani, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) 2004
($70, Eric Solomon): Made from the classic blend of 50% Carignan and 40% Grenache (with the remaining portion split between Merlot and Syrah), this succulent Priorat blends power and elegance. Not over done, as can be the risk with wines from this region, La Basseta is a stylish wine. … Read more
Grosset, Polish Hill (Clare Valley, South Australia) Riesling 2006
($33, Australian Premium Wine Collection): Wow. Anyone who doesn’t yet realize that Australia is capable of producing great Rieslings, among the best in the world, needs to taste this wine. Bright, vibrant and steely, this focused wine almost vibrates. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 27, 2007… Read more
Pike & Joyce, Lenswood (Adelaide Hills, South Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($20, Australian Premium Wine Collection): If there were such a thing as a Meyer lime, this is how it would taste. Floral and limey, but not aggressive or grassy, it develops a lovely minerality with air that is reminiscent of the best wines from Sancerre. … Read more
Ruinart, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
($69, Moet Hennessy USA): Ruinart, the oldest Champagne house in the world and dating from 1729, is making a welcome reappearance on these shores. The Chardonnay grapes for this Blanc de Blancs come exclusively from premier cru villages. A small amount of the Chardonnay comes from the Montagne de Reims, an area traditionally known for Pinot Noir, not Chardonnay. … Read more
Whitehaven, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($22, Whitehaven Wine Co. USA): This is another example of how the Marlborough region of New Zealand continues to produce riveting Sauvignon Blanc. Whitehaven, always a reliable label, has produced a citric-laced wine with a cutting edginess. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 27, 2007… Read more
Cape Mentelle, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2006
($19, Moet Hennessy USA): The cooling effects of the Indian and Southern Oceans (the latter of which laps at the shores of Antarctica) influence the wines from Western Australia. The more temperate climate–compared to parts of South Australia–means the grapes rarely get overripe and hence, the wines show restraint and balance. … Read more
Green Point, Yarra Valley (Victoria, Australia) Chardonnay Reserve 2004
($30, Moet Hennessy USA): In the mid-1980s, Moët & Chandon, the world largest Champagne producer, established their outpost in Australia 30 miles east of Melbourne in the Yarra Valley in the state of Victoria. In addition to Australian sparkling wines, Moët makes stylish still wines under the Green Point label. … Read more
Kluge Estate Winery and Vineyard, Albemarle County (Virginia) Blanc de Blancs Brut 2004
($38): I know what you are thinking because I had the same thoughts before tasting this wine: ‘$38 for a sparkling wine from Virginia? You’re kiddin’ me.’ Well, not only am I not kidding you, I am suggesting you buy it.… Read more
Oyster Bay, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($15, American Wine Distributors): I have a fondness for Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region of New Zealand. This one is particularly attractive and supports what many New Zealand producers have told me, ‘2006 is a great year in Marlborough.’ It certainly has the zing and freshness you’d expect from Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, but it also has minerality and length to accompany the herbal notes, which makes it especially appealing.… Read more
Kendall-Jackson, California (United States) Cabernet Sauvignon “Vintner’s Reserve” 2004
($18): Sometimes large production wines with good availability are overlooked. But this one should not be. The grapes come from Kendall-Jackson’s sources throughout the state, hence the California appellation. This is very good, approachable–and stylish–Cabernet Sauvignon. 87 Michael Apstein Feb 13, 2007… Read more
Migration, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) 2004
($30): This is sourced from the Anderson Valley outpost of Duckhorn Vineyards, the famed Napa Valley winery, which looked to the north for a site for their Pinot Noir production. They make two bottlings, Goldeneye, and this less pricey one. Made in a ripe, rich style with noticeable sweet oakiness, this won’t be mistaken for red Burgundy. … Read more
Pol Roger, Champagne (France) 1998
($70, Wildman): Fuller and more forward than the 1996 Pol Roger–which still could use a few more years of bottle age–the 1998 is very appealing now. It’s suave and charming despite its considerable power derived in part, no doubt, from the predominance of Pinot Noir in the blend.… Read more