Category Archives: WRO Reviews

Les Maisons Rouges, Jasnières (Loire Valley, France) “Sur le Nez” Sec 2016

($25, AP Wine Imports):  Jasnières, a tiny (161-acre) appellation, is well away from the river and the Loire’s northern-most outpost.  Similar to Savennières, another lesser-known Loire appellation, Jasnières uses only Chenin Blanc to produce its steely, impressive white wines. Les Maison Rouges, founded almost 25 years ago, in 1994, has rapidly become one of the area’s top producers. Read more

Bohigas, Cava (Spain) “Rosat” NV

($13, Polaner Selections):  It can be difficult to find a wine to accompany Vietnamese, indeed most Asian fare, with its plethora of flavors.  This Rosé Cava worked splendidly with the stellar food at the Hanoi House in New York.  It was gentle enough to work as a celebratory pre-dinner drink and firm enough to cut through the spice and lemongrass. Read more

Thierry Germain, Domaine des Roches Neuves, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) “L’Insolite” 2015

($40):  Thierry Germain is one of the most talented and enthusiastic winemakers in the Loire.  He makes small quantities of outstanding individualistic reds and whites that are always worth the search.  Take this one, for example, L’Insolite (unusual).  Made from 95-year-old Chenin Blanc vines planted on silex, it conveys a hint of white flowers, minerals combined with freshness and verve.Read more

Château Thivin, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2015

($28):  The wines from Côte de Brouilly, one of top-tier of the ten cru of Beaujolais, are not to be confused with those from Brouilly, another cru, but whose wines have less consistent quality.  Although Château Thivin, one of the region’s best producers, makes a range of wines from Côte de Brouilly depending on the position of the vines on the slope, this one is a blend from several sites. Read more

Kendall-Jackson, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay Jackson Estate 2016

($32):  Arguably, Kendall-Jackson is largely responsible for Americans’ love of Chardonnay.  So, it’s not surprising that they should expand their portfolio with site-specific bottlings of that variety.  This one, from Santa Maria Valley, delivers fruity, spiced pineapple-like flavors along with the opulence for which KJ is known.Read more

Kendall-Jackson, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay Camelot Highlands Jackson Estate 2016

($38):  The uniqueness of Santa Maria Valley, as a whole, stems from its east-west orientation, instead of the usually north-south orientation of most California valleys.  This orientation allows the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean direct access to the vineyards.  Indeed, vineyards just a few miles inland are considerable warmer, producing grapes and wines with different flavor profiles, than ones further west. Read more

Quinta Casal Monteiro, Tejo (Portugal) Arinto Terra de Touros 2015

($10, Iberian Wine Imports):  Although Portugal is better known for their red wines, their whites have gotten better and better over the last five years and soon could be competing with their reds for serious attention.  Floral and delicate with a refreshing line of acidity in the finish, this light-bodied white would go well with steamed clams or simply grilled white fish.Read more

Bortolotti, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV

($24, Marc de Grazia Selections):  Prosecco has replaced “Champagne” in the U.S. as the new default name for any sparkling wine.  And with its popularity has come an extraordinary range of quality from insipid to extraordinary.  The best Proseccos, such as this one, come from hillside vineyards, which carry their own DOCG, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, as opposed to those that come from the flat lands. Read more

Migration, Sta. Rita Hills (California) Pinot Noir Drum Canyon Vineyard 2015

($68):  Migration, yet another label of the Duckhorn Wine Company, focuses on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Their first wine was the 2001 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir.  Now they have ‘migrated’ to other regions of California, showing that the French do not have a monopoly of terroir — the concept that the place where the grapes grow determines the character of the wine. Read more

Migration, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Running Creek 2015

($68):  This one, from a different vineyard in the Russian River Valley, is the boldest of this trio of Pinot Noir and delivers more black, rather than red, fruit character.  Similar to Migration’s other offerings, its suave texture makes it extremely appealing for current consumption, though its balance suggests it will develop nicely with bottle age.Read more

Masút Vineyard and Winery, Mendocino County (California) Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard 2016

($40):  Ben and Jake Fetzer, grandsons of famed Barney Fetzer who made Fetzer Vineyards a household name in the 1990s, founded Masút Vineyard and Winery in 2009 to focus on Pinot Noir.  Their father had purchased 1,200 acres in Mendocino County, which the sons planted — they have 35-acres devoted to Pinot Noir — and eventually established the Eagle Peak appellation.Read more

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2015

($23, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):  Mercurey, a small town in the Côte Chalonnaise in Southern Burgundy, is an especially good place to look for values in 2015.  The extra warmth of the vintage helped these less prestigious sites.  Compared to Drouhin’s Rully, from a neighboring village in the Côte Chalonnaise, this Mercurey has more earthiness accompanying its bright fruitiness. Read more

Kim Crawford, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Signature Reserve 2017

($25):  Kim Crawford, a leading producer of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, has introduced what they call a “luxury tier.”  A clear cut above their usual bottling, it has a long finish and better mid-palate.  Their Signature Reserve conveys a delightful and balanced mixture of tropical fruit and citrus flavors, finishing with a zesty pleasant bite characteristic of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Read more