($25, AP Wine Imports): Jasnières, a tiny (161-acre) appellation, is well away from the river and the Loire’s northern-most outpost. Similar to Savennières, another lesser-known Loire appellation, Jasnières uses only Chenin Blanc to produce its steely, impressive white wines. Les Maison Rouges, founded almost 25 years ago, in 1994, has rapidly become one of the area’s top producers. … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Maison Bougrier, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Pure Loire” Brut NV
($20): In addition to still wines, Vouvray is also home to delightful sparkling wines. Made exclusively from Chenin Blanc, this one combines the subtle fruitiness of that grape with a racy spine of bubbles. Slighter fruitier than Champagne, but similarly enlivening, it’s a good choice this summer.… Read more
Château Moncontour, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Le Grand Reserve, Cuvée Prédilection” 2014
($20): Three years aging on the lees of this Chenin Blanc-based sparkling wine explains its enormous depth and refinement. It’s a lovely expression of Vouvray, with a perfect balance of lively fruitiness backed by a firm spine. Elegant and long, it’s a good choice for simply grilled fish this summer. … Read more
Lignier-Michelot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2016
($37, Becky Wasserman Selection):
Bohigas, Cava (Spain) “Rosat” NV
($13, Polaner Selections): It can be difficult to find a wine to accompany Vietnamese, indeed most Asian fare, with its plethora of flavors. This Rosé Cava worked splendidly with the stellar food at the Hanoi House in New York. It was gentle enough to work as a celebratory pre-dinner drink and firm enough to cut through the spice and lemongrass. … Read more
Antoine Ogier, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) “Etamines” 2017
($15): Tavel, an appellation established in 1936 solely for rosé, usually produces wines that are notably more robust than other rosé wines. Indeed, in this case, you could consider many of them as light reds, and Ogier’s, befitting the appellation, has more color and depth, balanced by vigorous acidity. … Read more
Domaine des Terres Blanches, Les Baux de Provence (France) 2016
($15): Les Baux de Provence, a small appellation in Provence that is entirely organic, is an outlier because it is known best for its red wines. That said, it’s home to some satisfying whites, such as this one. A blend primarily of Rolle (a.k.a.… Read more
Mas de Gourgonnier, Les Baux de Provence (France) 2015
($16, North Berkeley Imports; Skurnik Wines): Though located in the heart of Provence, Les Baux de Provence, an appellation of barely 600 acres, is known for its reds, rather than its rosés. The allowed grapes include the usual Mediterranean suspects, Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan, among others, and, perhaps surprisingly, Cabernet Sauvignon. … Read more
Thierry Germain, Domaine des Roches Neuves, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) “L’Insolite” 2015
($40): Thierry Germain is one of the most talented and enthusiastic winemakers in the Loire. He makes small quantities of outstanding individualistic reds and whites that are always worth the search. Take this one, for example, L’Insolite (unusual). Made from 95-year-old Chenin Blanc vines planted on silex, it conveys a hint of white flowers, minerals combined with freshness and verve.… Read more
Joseph Mellot, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “La Chatellanie” 2016
($26): The wonderful thing about really good Sancerre is that, though made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape, it doesn’t taste like most Sauvignon Blanc, which can be raspy and vegetal. Good Sancerre, such as Mellot’s, has a chalky minerality underpinning the bite provided by the grape. … Read more
Domaine D’Aupilhac, Montpeyroux Languedoc (Languedoc – Roussillon, France) “Les Cocalières” 2016
($26, Kermit Lynch): Consumers need to learn more seemingly obscure geographic names. Wine regulators in the Languedoc have identified 34 sub-regions, six of which no longer carry even Languedoc on the label and are referred to as cru, that produce more distinctive wines. … Read more
Château Bas-d’Aumelas, Languedoc AOP (Languedoc – Roussillon, France) “Barathym” 2017
($9): This straightforward, fruity, delightful wine perhaps does not deserve 90 points, but it gets extra credit for value. A blend of Grenache (70%) and Carignan, this fresh and lively red delivers a balanced array of red fruit flavors, spice and herbal elements. … Read more
Château Thivin, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2015
($28): The wines from Côte de Brouilly, one of top-tier of the ten cru of Beaujolais, are not to be confused with those from Brouilly, another cru, but whose wines have less consistent quality. Although Château Thivin, one of the region’s best producers, makes a range of wines from Côte de Brouilly depending on the position of the vines on the slope, this one is a blend from several sites. … Read more
Stewart Cellars, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2016
($37): Though based in Yountville in Napa, Stewart Cellars, a family-run winery established only in 2000, finds growers in Sonoma with whom to work. I, for one, am glad they did. This fine Chardonnay, for example, comes from the cooler Sonoma Mountain area, which likely explains, at least in part, its finesse. … Read more
Pedroncelli Winery, Sonoma County (California) “Friends White” 2017
($13): One of the great things about New World winemakers is their willingness to experiment because they are not constrained by regulations. This blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer (roughly 60/40) is a case in point. Where else in the world would you find a blend of those two grapes? … Read more
Kendall-Jackson, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay Jackson Estate 2016
($32): Arguably, Kendall-Jackson is largely responsible for Americans’ love of Chardonnay. So, it’s not surprising that they should expand their portfolio with site-specific bottlings of that variety. This one, from Santa Maria Valley, delivers fruity, spiced pineapple-like flavors along with the opulence for which KJ is known.… Read more
Kendall-Jackson, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay Camelot Highlands Jackson Estate 2016
($38): The uniqueness of Santa Maria Valley, as a whole, stems from its east-west orientation, instead of the usually north-south orientation of most California valleys. This orientation allows the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean direct access to the vineyards. Indeed, vineyards just a few miles inland are considerable warmer, producing grapes and wines with different flavor profiles, than ones further west. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Fumé Blanc 2015
($31): It’s hard to understand how one producer can master so many different wines. But Grgich Hills does. Their Chardonnays are iconic, certainly among California’s best. Their Cabernet Sauvignons are thrilling and develop wonderfully with bottle age. Even their Zinfandel charms. … Read more
Edna Valley Vineyards, Edna Valley (San Luis Obispo County, California) Sauvignon Blanc “Winemaker Series” 2016
($30): A big step up from Edna Valley’s regular Sauvignon Blanc, this one, part of their Winemaker Series level, has more depth and a richer texture while maintaining vibrancy. It enlivens the palate without being aggressive. A balanced wine, it has a Sancerre-like sensibility. … Read more
Edna Valley Vineyards, Central Coast (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($14): This refreshing and straightforward Sauvignon Blanc delivers a tingling bite without being aggressive. Clean and bright, it’s a well-priced go-to kind of wine for the heat and humidity that is about to descend.
86 Michael Apstein Jun 19, 2018… Read more
Segura Viudas, Cava (Catalonia, Spain) “Aria” Brut Nature NV
($14, DM Vineyards & Partners): This fresh and clean bubbly has a firm, but not aggressive, spine of acidity that balances its floral fruitiness. A welcome hint of bitterness in the finish and its overall weight makes it a good choice for a variety of food — tapas or sushi anyone. … Read more
Casata Monfort, Trento (Trento-Alto Adige, Italy) Riserva 2011
($50): Consumers mistakenly believe that all bubbly coming from Italy is Prosecco. Not so. There’s fine sparkling wine from Franciacorta and this stunning one reminds us not to forget Trento. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the traditional grapes of Champagne, it has a fine bead of acidity that gives it a great spine.… Read more
Domaine Raspail-Aÿ, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2015
($38): Gigondas and its more well-known brother, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, share the same level on France hierarchical appellation status: they are both one of nine cru of the southern Rhône Valley. They both use a similar blend of standard Mediterranean varieties, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, among others. … Read more
Jordan, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2016
($33): As with their splendid Cabernet Sauvignon, Jordan produces refined Chardonnay. Crisp and creamy with a display of citrus, their 2016 Chardonnay caresses, rather than assaults, the palate. It’s an elegantly styled Chardonnay whose charm reveals itself as it sits in the glass. … Read more
Writer’s Block, Lake County (California) Roussanne 2016
($18): Roussanne is a grape grown in the Rhône Valley and often, along with Marsanne and Viognier, is used with to make white wines from that region. Similar to their Syrah, what’s in the bottle is far superior to what’s on the bottle, so don’t be put off by the name. … Read more
Steele, Lake County (California) Cabernet Franc 2015
($19): Many people in the wine trade tell me that they avoid Cabernet Franc because it can deliver vegetal flavors if not entirely ripe. It can. But it can also be the basis for a spectacular wine — think Bordeaux’s Château Cheval Blanc — by providing a needed savory component. … Read more
Henri Badoux, Chablais (Vaud, Switzerland) “Aigle les Murailles” 2016
($40, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Swiss wines are not widely available outside of Switzerland because the Swiss drink most of it themselves. This one, from the Chablais (not to be confused with Chablis) on the shores of Lake Geneva is worth search for. … Read more
Quinta Casal Monteiro, Tejo (Portugal) Arinto Terra de Touros 2015
($10, Iberian Wine Imports): Although Portugal is better known for their red wines, their whites have gotten better and better over the last five years and soon could be competing with their reds for serious attention. Floral and delicate with a refreshing line of acidity in the finish, this light-bodied white would go well with steamed clams or simply grilled white fish.… Read more
Champagne Gardet, Champagne (France) Brut Premier Cru Blanc de Noirs NV
($50): This is a gorgeous Blanc de Noirs made entirely from Pinot Noir (60%) and Pinot Meunier grown in the Premier Cru village of Hautvillers. Aromatic, with a prominent display of red fruits, it has the power of red grapes offset by a spine of acidity. … Read more
Chappellet, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2015
($45): So much Merlot is consumed thoughtlessly as a pre-dinner drink — as in “I’ll have a glass of Merlot” — that consumers could be excused if they think grape is incapable of producing serious wine. Chappellet’s 2015 Merlot should dispel that idea. … Read more
Writer’s Block, Lake County (California) Syrah 2015
($18): I was predisposed to dislike the wine because of its cutesy name. But, just as you can’t judge a book by its cover, you need to taste to fairly evaluate a wine. This is a well-proportioned Syrah that brings black fruit, smoky and peppery notes together seamlessly. … Read more
Jordan, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
($56): I admire Jordan because they have never veered from their style of making refined and polished Cabernet Sauvignon. They’ve avoided the “bigger is better” trap, and have remained focused on elegance and refinement. Take this 2014 Cabernet. From the moment you smell it, you know you’re in for a treat. … Read more
Bortolotti, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV
($24, Marc de Grazia Selections): Prosecco has replaced “Champagne” in the U.S. as the new default name for any sparkling wine. And with its popularity has come an extraordinary range of quality from insipid to extraordinary. The best Proseccos, such as this one, come from hillside vineyards, which carry their own DOCG, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, as opposed to those that come from the flat lands. … Read more
Villa Vignamaggio, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Morino” 2015
($12, Montcalm Wine Importers): Vignamaggio makes excellent Chianti Classico, so it comes as no surprise that this simple IGT Toscana delivers more than you’d expect for the price. Fruitier with far fewer savory notes compared to Chianti Classico, it’s a cheery fresh wine, full of cherry-like notes. … Read more
Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Les Chanteaux” 2016
($25): The vast amount (95%) of wine made in Chinon, one of many picturesque villages in the Loire Valley, is red. Although limited, the amount of white, made from Chenin Blanc grapes, is increasing because of its immediate appeal to consumers. … Read more
Bodega Catena Zapata, Uco Valley (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec La Consulta 2015
($25, The Winebow Group): The Malbec from La Consulta could redefine the image of wine made from that grape. Not just big and ripe, this Malbec is lively and racy with appealing smoky nuances. Though it displays Malbec’s smooth tannins, it is far fresher compared to Lunlunta. … Read more
Bodega Catena Zapata, Maipu (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec Lunlunta 2015
($25, The Winebow Group): Catena, as the producer is usually known, is one of Argentina’s top producers. They have always championed vineyards planted at high elevations, believing that the cooler temperature and the character of the sunshine make the wines distinctive. … Read more
Sonoma-Loeb, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2016
($34): John Loeb, Jr, former Ambassador to Denmark, businessman and philanthropist, established Sonoma-Loeb in 1990. The wines had always been made at Chappellet Vineyard and Winery, so when Chappellet purchased the property in 2011, nothing really changed — the wines are still top-notch. … Read more
Steele, Santa Barbara County (California) Pinot Noir Goodchild Vineyard 2014
($30): Jed Steele has a long history of making fine wine in California so my enthusiasm for this wine is not surprising. Steele purchases grapes from the Goodchild Vineyard which is located just across the river from the famed Bien Nacido vineyard (He also makes a Pinot Noir from grapes grown in that vineyard.) … Read more
Domaine du Closel, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) Clos du Papillon 2016
($50): An extraordinary wine from an obscure area, the Domaine du Closel’s Savennières is thrilling in the best sense of the word. Thrilling because you don’t expect it. As in, where did this come from and why haven’t I heard about these wines? … Read more
Domaine du Grand Mouton, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) “Sur Lie” 2016
($21, Vintage ’59 Imports): Wines from the Muscadet area, the far west of the Loire Valley, especially those from the sub-region Sèvre et Maine, are fabulous with simple seafood, such as oysters or steamed clams. Louis Métaireau’s Grand Mouton is a “go-to” Muscadet Sèvre et Maine for just such fare. … Read more
Migration, Sta. Rita Hills (California) Pinot Noir Drum Canyon Vineyard 2015
($68): Migration, yet another label of the Duckhorn Wine Company, focuses on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Their first wine was the 2001 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. Now they have ‘migrated’ to other regions of California, showing that the French do not have a monopoly of terroir — the concept that the place where the grapes grow determines the character of the wine. … Read more
Migration, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Running Creek 2015
($68): This one, from a different vineyard in the Russian River Valley, is the boldest of this trio of Pinot Noir and delivers more black, rather than red, fruit character. Similar to Migration’s other offerings, its suave texture makes it extremely appealing for current consumption, though its balance suggests it will develop nicely with bottle age.… Read more
Migration, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch 2015
($68): Migration’s Pinot Noir from the famed Dutton Ranch in Russian River Valley has more oomph than their Sta. Rita bottling, no doubt from slightly warmer climate. Still, it has a lovely lacey, almost, red fruit delicacy, which to my mind is another key component of Pinot Noir — its ability to deliver flavor without weight.… Read more
Masút Vineyard and Winery, Mendocino County (California) Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard 2016
($40): Ben and Jake Fetzer, grandsons of famed Barney Fetzer who made Fetzer Vineyards a household name in the 1990s, founded Masút Vineyard and Winery in 2009 to focus on Pinot Noir. Their father had purchased 1,200 acres in Mendocino County, which the sons planted — they have 35-acres devoted to Pinot Noir — and eventually established the Eagle Peak appellation.… Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2015
($23, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Mercurey, a small town in the Côte Chalonnaise in Southern Burgundy, is an especially good place to look for values in 2015. The extra warmth of the vintage helped these less prestigious sites. Compared to Drouhin’s Rully, from a neighboring village in the Côte Chalonnaise, this Mercurey has more earthiness accompanying its bright fruitiness. … Read more
Shooting Star, Lake County (California) Pinot Noir 2015
($14): Unbelievable. My first and second — and third — reaction to this wine. Wine with real Pinot Noir character at $14 a bottle. Fresh and clean, it’s a delicate, but flavorful wine that finishes ever so slightly sweet. But fresh acidity keeps it balanced. … Read more
Kim Crawford, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Signature Reserve 2017
($25): Kim Crawford, a leading producer of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, has introduced what they call a “luxury tier.” A clear cut above their usual bottling, it has a long finish and better mid-palate. Their Signature Reserve conveys a delightful and balanced mixture of tropical fruit and citrus flavors, finishing with a zesty pleasant bite characteristic of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Nobilo, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Icon” 2015
($17, Constellation Imports): The Marlborough region on the northern end of New Zealand’s South Island is rapidly becoming known for Pinot Noir. This one imparts a pure, clean fruitiness that is, paradoxically, both intense and delicate. There’s not a trace of heaviness. … Read more
Château de Fuissé, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Le Clos 2015
($69, Frederick Wildman and Sons): Pouilly-Fuissé doesn’t get any better than this. Le Clos, sure to be classified as a premier cru vineyard when the classification system for Pouilly-Fuissé goes into effect in the next year or so, is owned solely — a monopole — by Château de Fuissé, one of the top producers in the appellation. … Read more