($27, Classical Wines): Bigger still than either the Albares or Baltos bottlings from Dominio de Tares, the Exaltos has attractive rusticity to boot. At this stage, the American oak is still apparent and the wine would benefit with another year or so of age to allow it to come together.… Read more
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Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y Leon, Spain) “Albares” 2005
($11, Classical Wines): This 100% unoaked Mencia, made especially for the U.S. market, is a terrific buy. With lovely aromatics, fruit and little tannin, it has a Beaujolais-like style and sensibility, but with more substance. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007… Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Baltos” 2005
($15, Classical Wines): Made from slightly older vines and aged briefly in American and French oak barriques, the Baltos is a more muscular version of Dominio de Tares’s Albares. The oak doesn’t dominate; rather it imparts an attractive creaminess that balances the mild tannic structure. … Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Bembibre” 2003
($46, Classical Wines): Made from 60-plus-year-old vines, this big and juicy wine is remarkably well balanced for a product of the scorching 2003 vintage. Nuances of tar, meaty overtones and black fruit are combined in this exotically flavored wine that is terrific to drink now.… Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Tares P3” 2003
($78, Classical Wines): The P3, from a single plot of 100-year-old vines, has gorgeous aromas of minerals and black fruit. Plush and powerful, it’s nonetheless a graceful wine. The heat of the vintage probably explains a slightly stewed character to the fruit, but it still retains brightness in the finish.… Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Bembibre” 2004
($46, Classical Wines): Brighter with better uplifting acidity than the 2003 Bembibre, the 2004 is nonetheless more awkward at this young stage. A captivating smoky, earthy nose mixed with tar and pepper in the finish suggests it will evolve nicely, and even after just 30 minutes in the glass, it softens. … Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Moncerbal 2005
($100, The Rare Wine Company): From a higher perch with rockier soil, the Moncerbal comes across as more of a ‘mountain’ wine than the San Martín. Cherry-like flavors fight through firm, pure minerality. Its hard edge, apparent at this stage, needs time to soften and allow its true complexity to shine. … Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Villa de Corullón 2004
($50, The Rare Wine Company): Despite packing lots of power, the Villa Corullón retains its elegance and class. Made entirely from estate grapes grown in vineyards scattered throughout the village, it has added spice and minerality complemented by freshness of fruit. … Read more
Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Tares P3” 2004
($78, Classical Wines): Fresher with better balance that the 2003 P3, the 2004 P3 is a real success. It has the same alluring nose and delivers the same combination of power and plushness, but without a hint of over-extraction or over-ripeness.… Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) San Martín 2005
($100, The Rare Wine Company): With an annual production of less than 2,000 bottles, Palacios’ ‘single-vineyard wines’ are tough to find. Technically not sourced from a single vineyard, but rather several parcels all located on the San Martín hill, this wine is silky and plush with a fabulous nose of violets and spice. … Read more
Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) 2003
($70, Grapes of Spain): The 2003 Paixar has remarkable class especially considering the difficulties making wine across Europe in that hot dry year. It retains the uncanny combination of polish and power without being over-extracted or overdone. The family resemblance to the 2001 is clear.… Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) La Faraona 2005
($160, The Rare Wine Company): La Faraona is a single vineyard of just over one acre, and the highest in the village of Corullón. Minerals and a core of ripe sweet ripe balance the firm tannins that give it a clear ‘mountain’ character. … Read more
Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) 2004
($70, Grapes of Spain): Paixar’s hallmark of elegance combined with intensity is readily apparent in the 2004 vintage. Slightly fresher than the 2003, its minerality and succulence is sustained throughout an incredible finish. Polished fine tannins lend structure without being intrusive. … Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Las Lamas 2005
($140, The Rare Wine Company): Not yet bottled, this barrel sample marries the best of the Moncerbal and the San Martín. Floral aromas grab your attention and then a fabulous combination of a silky richness surrounding a mineral core holds it. … Read more
Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) 2001
($70, Grapes of Spain): It’s not often that a producer’s early wines from a new area are so outstanding. Usually it takes time to discern the quirks of the vineyards and area. But the 2001 Paixar has it all. Powerful, but not overdone- — a mere 13.5% alcohol — it delivers layers of mineral-infused nuances seamlessly intertwined with succulent black cherry-like flavor. … Read more
Kendall Jackson, California (United States) Syrah Vintner’s Reserve 2005
($12): Kendall Jackson has clearly found the formula for producing attractive well priced wines year in and year out. This Syrah–plumy, ripe and nicely balanced–is easy to like. Smokey elements add complexity rarely seen at this price. 87 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007… Read more
Bierzo: The Next Priorat, Only Better
Dismissed by many in Spain as a region suited only to producing bulk wine, Bierzo is poised to become one of Spain’s leading wine regions. The landscape, the focus on indigenous grapes, and the personalities involved convince me that still-obscureBierzo is destined for the big time. … Read more
Domaine Francois Lamarche, Echezeaux (Burgundy, France) 2005
($110, Domaines et Saveurs Collection): Domaine Lamarche is probably best known for being the sole owner of a small Grand Cru in Vosne-Romanée, La Grand Rue, a vineyard that lies between La Tâche and Romanée-Conti. But the Domaine makes an extraordinary range of other wines, including the Grand Cru, Echezeaux. … Read more
Château La Nerthe: A Châteauneuf Standout
Although you hear it all the time, the claim that ‘This wine is great to drink now, but will also improve with bottle age’ is, in fact rarely borne out over time. However, with Châteauneuf-du-Pape, it’s true. The red wines from Châteauneuf (and 95% of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is red) have an engaging, robust, fruity spiciness when young that makes them perfect for hearty fare. … Read more
Mongeard-Mugneret, Échézeaux (Burgundy, France) 2005
($95, Vineyard Brands): The Mongeard-Mugneret style values finesse over power so it’s not a surprise that this grand cru grabs your attention with elegance, complexity and length rather than sheer intensity. A hint of exotic mushroom-like nuances intermingled with fresh red fruit makes it the epitome of great Burgundy, incredible flavor without heaviness.… Read more
Liger Belair, Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) 2005
($140): The promise of this young wine is most apparent in its nose and the extraordinary finish. Prominent aromas of oak are balanced by plenty of fruit and the combination is hard to resist. Tightly wound at this early stage of its life, strawberry and other red fruit-like flavors sneak out from the tannins and oak. … Read more
Girardin, Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2005
($52, Vineyard Brands): Girardin makes little or no wine from premier cru vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, opting to buy grapes from growers who own plots classified simply as Chambolle-Musigny, presumably because he feels they deliver better value. I hate to classify a $50 wine as a ‘value wine,’ but considering Burgundy, especially in the 2005 vintage, it probably is. … Read more
Bruno Clair, Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy, France) Les Veroilles 2005
($60, Vineyard Brands): Although not from a premier cru vineyard, this wine has all the style and class of one. The aromatics predict a lovely wine and in this case, the nose does not lie. Supple silky tannins surround a lush mixture of ripe black and red fruit flavors. … Read more
A tale of two Bordeaux: Aside from the top chateaus, the region’s producers struggle to be relevant
Perusing the selection at a Cannes wine shop, I noticed a group of Japanese businessmen. Among the shop’s selection of upscale wines — such as Cristal and grand cru Burgundies — one gentleman selected two bottles of 1995 Cheval Blanc, one of Bordeaux’s greatest wines (for just over $600 a bottle).… Read more
Girardin, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Emotion de Terroirs” 2005
($24, Vineyard Brands): In really great years, such as 2005, the wines from the lowliest appellations, such as this Bourgogne Rouge, are particularly attractive. Girardin has managed to craft a wine with New World intensity while retaining the earthy character of Burgundy. … Read more
Thierry & Pascale Matrot, Blagny (Burgundy, France) La Piéce Sous le Bois 2005
($52, Vineyard Brands): Red wine grown in Blagny, a village that straddles Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, is sold as Blagny, whereas the whites (made from Chardonnay) are sold under the name Meursault-Blagny. Matrot is the largest grower of Blagny and, in a way, it is the flagship wine. … Read more
Aussies Could Conquer the Riesling World…Or Blow It
One of the paradoxes of the wine world is the discrepancy between wine writers’ and consumers’ love for Riesling. Wine writers love it. Every time I have dinner with a group of my wine writing colleagues, someone invariably orders Riesling, usually with unanimous agreement from others. … Read more
2006 Red Bordeaux Reviews
The Red Wines:
L’Angelus (St. Emilion) 2006: Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, who, along with his cousin, Jean-Bernard Grenié, runs L’Angelus, told me that a gentle extraction was critical in 2006. They performed most of the extraction early, during fermentation, when the alcohol (which is a solvent) was low to minimize extracting bitter tannins.… Read more
Bordeaux 2006: Variable, with Superb Peaks
Variable is the best way to describe the 2006 vintage in Bordeaux–except for the dry whites, which are consistently excellent. That’s my assessment after tasting about 250 wines–all barrel samples–in Bordeaux last month. Some properties, such as Château Mouton and Château Lafite Rothschild, made fabulous wines.… Read more
Regional Diversity in Australian Wine, Part 2
John Larchet, an importer of Australian wines, and Bob Harkey, a wine retailer, both expressed the same troubling idea about Australian wines–albeit in very different ways.
Larchet (whose company, The Australian Premium Wine Collection, represents small Australian producers) described a gathering ‘storm cloud’ associated with the vast volume of Australian wines being sold here.… Read more
Tapeña, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Tempranillo 2005
($10, Freixenet USA): Made by the Ferrer family who owns the Spanish sparkling wine (Cava) house, Freixenet, Tapeña Tempranillo is an easy-to-drink, fruit forward, cheery kind of wine. 86 Michael Apstein May 22, 2007… Read more
Bouchaine, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($30): The cool Carneros region spans the southern ends of the Napa and Sonoma Valleys and is well suited for Pinot Noir, a variety that thrives in cooler climes. Bouchaine’s is a delightful combination of red fruit-strawberry, raspberry-like flavors–with just enough earthiness to keep it interesting.… Read more
Marques de Riscal, Vino de la Tierra Castilla (Castilla y Leon, Spain) “Riscal 1860” 2005
($8, Shaw Ross International): Marques de Riscal is one of the leading Rioja producers. They have branched out from their Rioja home to create this Tempranillo-based wine from grapes grown in Spain’s vast central plateau, an area not well known for producing quality wine. … Read more
Allan Scott, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($15, Baystate Wine Company in MA, Henry Wine Group in CA): Although Allan Scott has branched out with terrific Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, his signature Sauvignon Blanc has not suffered. It remains one of the best Sauvignon Blancs coming from the Marlborough region. … Read more
Allan Scott, Marlborough (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Unwooded” 2006
($15, Baystate Wine Company in MA, Henry Wine Group in CA): In my opinion, with the exception of Chablis, Chardonnay usually needs a little oak aging or other techniques, such as malolactic fermentation or lees stirring, to add complexity, so I was skeptical about this wine. … Read more
Allan Scott, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2006
($22, Baystate Wine Company in MA, Henry Wine Group in CA): Pinot Noir is finally making a name for itself in Marlborough. As producers have planted clones more suitable for still rather than sparkling wines and the vines have matured, the quality of Pinot Noir coming out of Marlborough has increased dramatically. … Read more
Glen Carlou, Paarl (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon “Gravel Quarry” 2004
($45, Hess Imports): Juicy black cherry flavors, bright vibrant acidity and mild tannins make this a good choice for a steak tonight. With more acidity than many similarly styles wines from California, it will go better with–rather than before–dinner. 90 Michael Apstein May 15, 2007… Read more
Marques de Grinon, Dominio de Valdepusa (Spain) “Caliza” 2004
($22, Moet Hennessy USA): Marques de Grinon’s estate, Dominio de Valdepusa, is considered one of Spain’s vinous gems. It was Spain’s first Denominación de Origen (DO) Pago, or officially recognized single estate. (To date there are still only two other estates). … Read more
Regional Diversity in Australian Wine
Every wine producer I met on my recent trip to Australia wanted to discuss regional diversity of Australian wines. They know that in order to grow, they need to expand beyond what they have already mastered: delivering wines that are simple, fruity, inexpensive, and easy-to-drink, with a cute critter on the label. … Read more
Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) “Grange” 2002
($250): The release of Penfolds’ Grange each year on May 1st, after 5 years of aging, is a much anticipated event in Australia. Peter Gago, the winemaker responsible for Grange, says the 2002 is like the 1990 and 1996, ‘it’s all about poise and balance.’ … Read more
Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bin 707” 2004
($88, Foster’s Wine Estates): Penfolds’ Bin 707, their best Cabernet, excels in 2004. The fruit comes from vineyards in Coonawarra and Barossa, including their famed Block 42, home to the world’s oldest Cabernet vines. According to Peter Gago, Penfolds’ head winemaker, the Barossa provides particularly attractive Cabernet in cooler years like 2004. … Read more
Wynns, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
($18, Foster’s Wine Estates): Frequently known simply as Wynns’ Black Label in Australia, this is consistently one of that country’s great Cabernets. It’s track record for aging is matched only by a few of Penfolds’ legendary wines–Grange, St. Henri and Bin 707–though all of those ring up at considerably higher prices. … Read more
Wynns, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “John Riddoch” 2004
($60, Foster’s Wine Estates): Wynns’ best Cabernet, the John Riddoch bottling is made entirely from fruit grown on their vineyards in the heart of Coonawarra. It’s a barrel selection of their best Cabernet, according to Sue Hodder, Wynns’ senior winemaker. She’s not looking for the biggest style wine when she selects barrels, and will eliminate those with hard tannins because she is looking for parcels that will make an elegant, polished kind of wine. … Read more
Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2004
($17, Brown Forman): In addition to Riesling, Clare Valley is known for producing fine, ripe, powerful Shiraz because of it’s warmer location. This one is deceptive because it has leathery and peppery flavors I usually associated with Shiraz grown in cooler climes. … Read more
Matua Valley Wines, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Estate Series “Paretai” 2006
($18, Foster’s Wine Estates): Matua’s Paretai–which means river bank–is another extraordinary value from this producer. Their best Sauvignon Blanc, it has unusual texture and weight without sacrificing rapier-like acidity. Minerality and creaminess are intertwined creating complexity rarely seen at this price.… Read more
Matua Valley Wines, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Estate Series” 2005
($20, Foster’s Wine Estates): The Marlborough region is battling Martinborough and Central Otago for the title of Pinot Noir capital of New Zealand. If the region keeps producing wines like this and at this price, it will be declared the winner. … Read more
Wakefield, South Australia (Australia) Riesling “Jaraman” 2005
($27, Brown Forman): Two-thirds of the fruit for this wine comes from Clare Valley and one third from the Eden Valley, but US labeling requirements prohibit dual appellations, so the wine is labeled simply South Australia. The Clare Valley produces more overt Rieslings, while Eden Valley Rieslings are known for their finesse and precision. … Read more
Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling 2005
($17, Brown Forman): Wakefield has fashioned a vibrant, bone dry Riesling with long, limey flavors from grapes grown in South Australia’s Clare Valley, north of the Barossa. Despite its northern locale, which should make it too hot (remember north equals heat Down Under) for a delicate variety like Riesling, the diurnal temperature variation in the Clare produces riveting, lively Rieslings. … Read more
Matua Valley Wines, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($12, Foster’s Wine Estates): With the soaring popularity of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, it is increasingly difficult to find good, let alone terrific, ones at this price. So don’t miss this one. Although New Zealand’s best and most vibrant Sauvignon Blancs come from the Marlborough region, located on the South Island, it was Matua who started it all when they planted Sauvignon Blanc in 1970 at their home base, just west of Auckland on the North Island. … Read more
Super Tuscan producers size up Syrah
It was the first time I’ve been stopped by customs officials going into Italy. At Rome’s Leonardo di Vinci International Airport, the uniformed official looked up from his coffee and conversation with several co-workers as I pushed my luggage chart through the green — nothing to declare — channel.… Read more