($40): Erath has contracted the entire Pinot Noir crop from this 4-acre vineyard every year since 1987, five years after Bruce and Ginny Weber planted it. The wine has slightly more power than Erath’s Prince Hill Pinot Noir (reviewed this week), but maintains finesse, not coming close to the overdone, over extracted ‘Pinot Syrah’ style. … Read more
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Terroir Exists
“When we can’t explain something, we call it terroir.” That was Jean-Philippe Delmas’ answer to the question of why such notable differences mark the wines from Chateau Haut-Brion and Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion. At some points, these two stellar properties literally across the road from each other in the Bordeaux sub region of Pessac Léognan actually dovetail with one another.… Read more
Sobon Estate, Amador County (California) Primitivo Reserve 2006
($24): Primitivo, according to many authorities, is the European equivalent of Zinfandel. With briary deep black fruit flavors, Sobon’s version is certainly Zinfandel-like. Big and almost overblown, it has an attractive rusticity. Spicy oak and slight heat in the finish–15.1% stated alcohol speaking-definitely means you’ll want this wine on a cold winter’s night.… Read more
Montevina, Amador County (California) Zinfandel “Terra d’Oro” 2005
($18): This juicy Zinfandel carries the stated 14.5% alcohol well without notes of over ripeness or excessive extraction. Briary nuances balance the dense black fruit flavors. Still, it’s a big wine that Zinfandel fans should enjoy. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 18, 2008… Read more
Renwood, Amador County (California) Zinfandel “Grandpère” 2004
($40): Grandpère is the name of the vineyard, which according to Renwood has the oldest clone of Zinfandel in California. The age of the vines (130 years) certainly explains the uncommon complexity and subtlety–for Zinfandel–found in the wine. The heat in the finish of this robust–15.5% stated alcohol–Zinfandel sadly detracts from the otherwise lovely layers of ripe fruit, spice and even tobacco-like nuances.… Read more
Venerable Burgundy auction gets a makeover
‘Irrelevant” was the word a high-ranking representative of a leading Burgundy negociant firm, who prefers to remain anonymous for fear of offending the tightly knit Burgundy wine community, used to describe the current Hospices de Beaune auction. That’s a startling assessment of what was – and probably still is – the world’s most important wine auction.… Read more
Domaine les Pallieres, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2005
($37, Kermit Lynch): Gigondas, like Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Vacqueyras, is one of the cru of the southern Rhone. Although the blend of primarily Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and other Rhône varieties, is similar to Châteauneuf, the wines are often a bit more rustic. … Read more
Luis Alegre, Rioja (Spain) Crianza 2004
($23, American Wine Distributors): Similar to Chianti over the last 20 years, Rioja, Spain’s most well known wine region, has taken advantage of its name recognition but also reinvented itself to be able to offer the world a range of styles. … Read more
Château d’Epiré, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Especiale” 2007
($28, Kermit Lynch): Château d’Epiré is one the leading properties in Savennières, a tiny (300-acre) appellation just west of Angers that produces the world’s best dry Chenin Blanc. This ‘Cuvée Especiale’ is bottled without filtration exclusively for Kermit Lynch. The wine, always reticent when young, is vigorous and bright. … Read more
Kuentz-Bas, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2006
($17, Kermit Lynch): With so many innocuous Pinot Blanc on the market, it is a joy to find one with character and richness. Hints of peaches are immediately apparent and a subtle spiciness and excellent acidity adds interest and verve. It’s another good choice for Thanksgiving, both as a welcoming aperitif and a wine for the table.… Read more
Charles Joguet, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Les Petites Roches” 2006
($25, Kermit Lynch): Despite its popularity in France, Chinon is an often-overlooked area by US consumers. True, the Cabernet Franc grape, the mainstay of the reds (since 2001 up to 25% Cabernet Sauvignon can be included) can produce vegetal wine if not ripened properly. … Read more
Charles Joguet, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Clos du Chene Vert” 2006
($50, Kermit Lynch): This wine from one of Chinon’s best plots, a south-facing steeply slope vineyard, is an example of a Chinon to put in the cellar, in contrast to Joguet ‘Les Petites Roches’ cuvée (also reviewed this week). You can already sense the layers of flavors ready to spring out of this tightly wound wine. … Read more
Luis Alegre, Rioja (Spain) “Vendimia Seleccionada” 2002
($48, American Wine Distributors): If you just looked at vintage charts, you’d wonder why Alegre chose 2002, a below average year for Rioja, for their ‘selected vintage’ bottling. But this wine shows you that talented producers make excellent wines in so-so years. … Read more
Pazo Barrantes, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006
($22, Maisons Marques and Domaines): Marqués de Murrieta, rightly known for their stylish wines from Rioja, recently purchased a property in Rias Baixas, Pazo Barrantes, and are now offering an Albariño to the public. A rather fuller style of Albariño–with more mid-palate texture and a stone fruit quality–it has less of the biting acidity characteristic of this grape. … Read more
Château Romassan, Bandol (Provence, France) 2002
($48, Maisons Marques and Domaines): Domaines Ott, perhaps the leading producer of Provence wines, acquired Château Romassan in the 1950s. In Bandol, as in the Rhone Valley, 2002 was a disaster for wines. Nonetheless, Château Romassan made an admirable Bandol that year, reminding us that vintage reputation alone never tells the entire story. … Read more
Domaine Maume, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2006
($63, Kermit Lynch): Domaine Maume, a family run property, owns about 10 acres of vines in Gevrey-Chambertin. When young, Maume wines, like this one, emphasize power rather than finesse. In this case, there’s enormous concentration, more than you’d expect for a village wine, but at this stage the oak flavor and tannin is a little too prominent, which means it’s a good candidate for the cellar. … Read more
Domaine Catherine le Goeuil, Cairanne (Rhône Valley, France) “Cuvée Lea Felsch” 2006
($23, Kermit Lynch): This cuvée, the only one the producer makes, honors the current owner’s grandmother. She would be pleased. Made from a typical Mediterranean blend–mostly (55%) Grenache, with Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault comprising the remainder–it is a charmingly robust wine. Layers of black fruit flavors, spice, and herbal nuances are supported by moderate tannins. … Read more
Domaine de Gros Noré, Bandol (Provence, France) 2006
($44, Kermit Lynch): Bandol, a small appellation in the south of France where the Mourvedre grape is king, is known for ripe intense red wines, such as this one. This robust wine, with deep black fruit character and herbal touches, is nicely balanced except for the noticeable heat–that’s the 15% stated alcohol speaking–in the finish.… Read more
Domaine Tempier, Bandol (Provence, France) “Cuvée La Migoua” 2006
($75, Kermit Lynch): This bottling comes from a separate, horseshoe-shaped hillside parcel separate from the Domaine that they acquired recently. Riper, with more punch, it is quite closed at this stage and seemingly lacks the complexity of their Cuvée Classique. It needs considerable time to unfold, as I’m sure it will given Domaine Tempier’s track record. … Read more
Domaine Tempier, Bandol (Provence, France) “Cuvée Classique” 2006
($50, Kermit Lynch): Domaine Tempier, arguably the best property in Bandol, is certainly responsible for introducing that appellation to American consumers. They produce this cuvée from several parcels spread around the appellation. Their Cuvée Classique has everything you’d want in Bandol, including layers of robust flavors tempered by fine tannins. … Read more
Château de Lascaux, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) 2006
($17, Kermit Lynch): In the local dialect, lascaux means limestone and refers to the local terrain. Unusual for the Languedoc, there is no Carignan in this blend, only Syrah and Grenache, which helps to explain the weight of this fragrant, polished wine. … Read more
Domaine d’Aupilhac, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) “Les Cocalieres” 2006
($39, Kermit Lynch): This, the domaine’s top-of the-line wine, comes from a separate parcel just outside the well-regarded Mont Peyroux area as opposed to a cellar selection of their ‘best’ wines. The higher altitude location of the vineyard means a cooler climate in this normally hot part of the south of France and explains the wine’s elegance and polish. … Read more
Château de Lascaux, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) Pic St.-Loup 2006
($18, Kermit Lynch): This wine is a poster boy for the French concept of terroir since the winemaking and blend is the same–60% Syrah and 40% Grenache–as in their regular Coteaux du Languedoc (also reviewed this week), but the flavors are markedly different. … Read more
North Star, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2005
($41): One whiff tells you this is serious wine. The taste confirms it. This serious Merlot, a blend from14 vineyard sites around the Columbia Valley, is powerful, but not overdone. You barely notice its 14.7% stated alcohol, even in the finish.… Read more
An Early Overview of 2007 Burgundies
Even though it’s hard to recommend specific wines from the 2007 vintage at this stage because most are unfinished and still developing in barrel, an early assessment of the 2007 vintage in Burgundy is important because it helps determine a buying strategy now.… Read more
Domaine Maume, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2006
($32): Bourgogne Rouge is a category often overlooked (and rightly so) by consumers. But from good producers, such as Maume, these wines represent a good introduction to Burgundy and its Pinot Noir. Quite forward, this one is full of ripe good black cherry flavors and acidity and balanced by a hint of earthiness. … Read more
Robert Chevillon, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (Burgundy, France) 2006
($25, Kermit Lynch): More Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (a blend of at least one-third Pinot Noir and the remainder Gamay) is made than Bourgogne Rouge, but very little reaches our shores. It’s too bad because when well-made, like this one, it is a bright and juicy wine with refreshing rusticity perfect for current drinking with simple fare like a roast chicken.… Read more
Neil Ellis Wines, Western Cape (South Africa) “The Left Bank” 2007
($15, Vineyard Brands): The name, The Left Bank, presumably alludes to Bordeaux, but the blend there never includes Shiraz, which comprises a third of this wine–the remainder being Cabernet Sauvignon (57%) and Merlot. (Chateau Palmer started producing a wine in 2004–called Historical XIX Century–that includes Shiraz in the blend, but can not be labeled Bordeaux, only Vin de Table). … Read more
North Star, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) Merlot 2005
($60): In contrast to this brand’s Columbia Valley Merlot, this one from selected vineyards solely within the Walla Walla Valley emphasizes the minerality and succulent black fruit flavors of Merlot. The engaging herbal elements are still present, but more in the background in this dense, plush wine. … Read more
Erez, Galilee (Israel) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($15, Royal Wine Company): Every year we see more high-quality wines, such as this one, coming out of Israel, a place that seems ill suited for premium wine because of its climate. But, in fact, the Galilee plateau’s elevation accounts for its more moderate climate and explains why it’s a prime location for growing quality grapes. … Read more
Robert Oatley, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz 2007
($20): Oatley is a huge name in the Australian wine industry, having founded Rosemount, a company whose wines helped spread the popularity of Australian wines in general. So when he starts a new label and chooses Mudgee, not the most well-known area in Australia for premium grapes, everyone takes notice. … Read more
Domaine Pierre Morey, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2006
($27, Wilson Daniels): The French are finally caving in to the idea of putting the grape name on the label — at least for their lower-level appellation controllée wines, such as this Bourgogne Rouge. Pierre Morey is one of the most talented and rigorous winemakers in Burgundy and this, his lowest level wine, speaks to his ability. … Read more
Juno Wine Co., Western Cape (South Africa) Shiraz “Cape Maidens” 2008
($10, Confluence Wine Importers): 
This is the showiest of Juno’s ‘Cape Maidens’ line of wines, which feature label art by well known South African artist Tertia du Toit. In the case of this wine, her rendering of a voluptuous maiden is matched by a pretty voluptuous wine, as this shows fleshy, ripe berry fruit. … Read more
Domaine Carneros, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir “Estate” 2006
($35): Domaine Carneros, the California outpost of the Champagne firm Taittinger, makes excellent sparkling wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, so it comes as no surprise that they should also try their hand at still wines from those varietals. Their Estate Pinot Noir, the lower of two tiers of Pinot, emphasizes the pure, cherry-like fruit aspect characteristic of many California renditions of this grape variety. … Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “8 Songs” 2004
($38, The Hess Group): Although this very ripe Shiraz highlights the plummy aspect of the varietal, it conveys a subtle pepperiness in the finish. Despite the 14.5% alcohol, it is balanced, not ‘over the top.’ This big, bold, juicy Shiraz should have widespread appeal.… Read more
Domaine Carneros, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir “The Famous Gate” 2006
($68): This wine, Domaine Carneros’s super-duper cuvee, undoubtedly a blend of their best barrels, has the graceful marriage of fruit and earth flavors you’d expect from a top-end Pinot Noir. It shows more complexity and haunting non-fruit nuances, but less of the direct sweet cherry-like flavors than their regular ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir (also reviewed this week). … Read more
Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Reserve 2006
($16, Pasternak Wine Imports): Albrecht has fashioned a lovely dry Riesling that finds a mid-ground between the enamel-cleansing character of some and the soupy sweetness of others. Plump apple flavors allow you to enjoy a glass as an aperitif, but the hallmark acidity of Riesling means it will hold up nicely through a meal. … Read more
What Does a Medal Mean?
With the recent completion of the Olympics, we are reminded of the incredible skill, precision and commitment it takes to win a medal, competing against the best in the world. An Olympic bronze medal–recognizing one the third best in the world at one’s sport–is high praise indeed.… Read more
Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Symmetry” 2005
($60): Often times Cabernet-blended wines show more complexity than wines made from any of the single Bordeaux varieties. The flavor profile of Merlot or Cabernet Franc, in particular, seems to be an especially well-suited foil to Cabernet. But in this case, Rodney Strong’s Symmetry–a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (73%), Merlot (15%), Cabernet Franc (4%) and Malbec (3%)–takes a back seat to their excellent Alexander Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. … Read more
Porcupine Ridge, Coastal Region (South Africa) Syrah 2007
($13, Vineyard Brands): The Porcupine Ridge label from Boekenhoutskloof, one of South Africa’s leading producers, is a consistent source of good wine at an excellent price. This Syrah has a dollop of gamey flavors and a touch of bacon fat as counterweight to its overall ripeness. … Read more
Louis Latour, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Caillerets 2006
($75, Louis Latour Inc.): Wines from Les Caillerets, one of Chassagne-Montrachet’s most refined 1er cru, often have more finesse than most of the wines from that village, which tend to be a bit earthier. Latour’s fits that mold, delivering elegance more associated with Puligny- than Chassagne-Montrachet. … Read more
Campania’s world-class white wines
Taurasi, Campania’s best wine, has a powerful allure. Years ago, I spotted one on the shelf of a simple seafood trattoria outside of Naples, where instead of a wine list the choices were arrayed on a shelf. I asked for this sturdy red even though we had ordered grilled langoustine.… Read more
Abadia Retuerta, Sardón de Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Selección Especial” 2005
($22): Sardón de Duero lies just down Spain’s Duero River from Ribera del Duero and, like its more famous neighbor, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are planted and blended with Tempranillo, the primary grape of the region. Lacking official recognition as a DO, its wines, such as this one, which is bottled as a Vino de la Tierra–analogous to a French Vin de Pays–can offer superb value especially when compared to its pricier neighbor. … Read more
Conde de la Salceda, Rioja (Spain) Reserva 2000
($43, Kobrand): Originally founded in 1647 in Navarra, Bodegas Julián Chivite expanded into Rioja in 1998 when they purchased the Conde de la Salceda estate. This, their top wine, is aged in small French barriques for 18 months and even at 7years of age, the oak influence is still quite prominent. … Read more
Roda, Rioja (Spain) 2002
($42, Kobrand): Roda–the name comes from the first initials of the two owners’ names, Mario Rottlant and Carmen Daurella–is another new-wave winery in the Old World. But this ‘modern’ style of Rioja, a blend of Tempranillo (94%), Garnacha (4%) and Graciano, has its feet firmly planted in tradition with impeccable balance. … Read more
Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Reserve 2006
($18, Pasternak Wine Imports): Alsace Riesling usually highlights the mineral aspect of the varietal compared with the more floral expression of German Riesling. Albrecht’s combines the best of both. Less floral than many, the minerality extends onto the palate and intermingles with attractive spice. … Read more
Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Reserve 2006
($18, Pasternak Wine Imports): Alsace Riesling usually highlights the mineral aspect of the varietal compared with the more floral expression of German Riesling. Albrecht’s combines the best of both. Less floral than many, the minerality extends onto the palate and intermingles with attractive spice. … Read more
Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006
($23, Kobrand): The script on the label makes it tough for the consumer to know who the producer is. And that’s a shame because it’s a wine whose name is worth remembering. Aromatic with a cleansing citric finish, it has an attractive bite characteristic of the varietal. … Read more
Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006
($23, Kobrand): The script on the label makes it tough for the consumer to know who the producer is. And that’s a shame because it’s a wine whose name is worth remembering. Aromatic with a cleansing citric finish, it has an attractive bite characteristic of the varietal. … Read more
Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006
($23, Kobrand): The script on the label makes it tough for the consumer to know who the producer is. And that’s a shame because it’s a wine whose name is worth remembering. Aromatic with a cleansing citric finish, it has an attractive bite characteristic of the varietal. … Read more