($28): The problem for consumers with Gewurztraminer, like Riesling, is the unknown and unpredictable level of sweetness. Dr. Frank’s is a gorgeous example of dry Gewurztraminer that highlights the spice of the varietal. Its prominent perfume suggests sweetness, but instead the wine delivers nuances of lychee nuts and spiced pears and finishes clean and dry. … Read more
All posts by admin
Ayala, Champagne (France) “Brut Majeur” NV
($40, Cognac One): Ayala takes its name from the family of Spanish aristocrats, one of 
whom founded the firm, and not the town, Aÿ, in which it is based. What it does take from that town, renowned for its Pinot Noir, is a healthy amount of that variety–45%–in the blend. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot Cold Creek Vineyard 2005
($26): With about 30 year-old vines, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Cold Creek estate vineyard is one of the oldest in Washington State, which explains the depth and complexity of this wine. Long and broad, this is a serious Merlot, with intriguing smoky and gamey qualities. … Read more
Bonny Doon Vineyards, Central Coast (California) Syrah “Le Pousseur” 2005
($18): A blend of 94% Syrah with the remainder comprised of Grenache, this wine speaks to the plummy, ripe style of Syrah as opposed to the peppery, spicy style that grape can also exhibit. It’s thick and rich without being heavy-weighing in at ‘only’ 13% alcohol–thanks to lively, blackberry-like acidity. … Read more
Howard Park, Western Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
($55, Bluewater Wine Company): Howard Park’s most upscale bottling of Cabernet comes from a broad geographic area–Western Australia–as opposed to the smaller Margaret River or Great Southern appellation. It reflects a desire to blend the best batches regardless of origin. The combine the multifaceted character of Cabernet–cassis-like fruit and herbal, non-fruit flavors–harmoniously in this elegant and silky wine. … Read more
Howard Park, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Leston Vineyard 2005
($27, Bluewater Wine Company): A more restrained style of Shiraz than the norm, this one from the Margaret River area marries herbal–even slightly minty–elements with plum-like flavors. It delivers an alluring breadth of flavors over pure power. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008
Howard Park, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Leston Vineyard 2005
($25, Bluewater Wine Company): This wine demonstrates the class and breeding of Margaret River Cabernets. A subtle hint of mint and touches of licorice lend an exotic edge. Plush and juicy, it not just fruit-filled, but has wonderful balance and great complexity.… Read more
Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Scotsdale Vineyard 2005
($25, Bluewater Wine Company): Similar to Howard Park’s Scottsdale Shiraz, this Cabernet focuses on the ripe fruit character of Cabernet–ripe plum and blackberry–as opposed to the its savory side. Its velvety, plush texture makes it very appealing now. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008
Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Scotsdale Vineyard 2005
($27): Howard Park, one of the top producers in Western Australia, bottles two different Shiraz releases, this one from the Great Southern Region, and one from Margaret River, that show the diversity of wines coming from Western Australia. This rendition emphasizes the plumy, almost jammy, side of Shiraz. … Read more
Jordan, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
($50): Since its establishment three decades ago, Jordan has always been rightly known for its elegantly proportional Cabernets. The 2004 vintage is no exception. The dark fruit flavors have a curious combination of depth and delicacy. An elusive hint of cigar box-like smokiness adds intrigue, while fine tannins support the entire package.… Read more
Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva Especial 1978
($60, Maisons, Marques and Domaines): Marqués de Murrieta retains a small portion of their Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva for extended barrel aging. Bottled in 1998, this wine spent roughly 18 years–give or take a few months–in barrel. But since the interior of the barrel develops a thick layer of rock hard tartrate crystals over the years, it’s more like aging in a giant bottle. … Read more
Colomé, Calchaqui Valley (Salta, Argentina) Malbec 2006
($25): This powerhouse Malbec comes from the highest vineyards in the 
world–7,200 to 9,900 feet above sea level in the Salta province of the northern Argentine Andes, according to Donald Hess, owner of California’s Hess Estate and other properties, including this one, around the world. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Merlot Canoe Ridge Estate 2005
($22): The Canoe Ridge Estate, located in eastern Washington and planted in 1991, rests on a steep slope overlooking the Columbia Valley. While the vines are not ‘old,’ they have certainly settled in and account for some of the character found in this wine. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Canoe Ridge Estate 2005
($28): The comparison of this Cabernet with its stablemate–the Canoe 
Ridge Merlot–supports my prejudice that Cabernet usually makes more interesting wines. Layered and complex, the tannins support ripe cassis and black cherry-like fruit. Thankfully, not an ‘over-the-top’ blockbuster wine, it has exquisite balance while conveying plenty of flavor.… Read more
Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Les Cazetiers) 2006
($96, VOS Selections): In addition to his excellent village Gevrey-Chambertin, Dupont-Tisserandot made a stellar group of wines from that village’s premier and grand cru sites in 2006. The signature–elegance and finesse, not raw power–is the same, but this Les Cazetiers has more of everything, reflecting the stature of the vineyard. … Read more
Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2006
($55, VOS Selections): 
Village wines, caught between entry level regional Bourgogne or Côtes de Nuits Villages and the sought-after premier and grand crus, are often overlooked–even scorned–by Burgundy drinkers. Don’t overlook this one. It leads with a subtly floral nose and then grabs you with an elegant combination of spice, leather and earth. … Read more
Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars, Finger Lakes (New York) Dry Riesling 2006
($18): The Finger Lakes region of New York State produce this country’s best Rieslings and Dr. Frank is one of the region’s leading producers. Truly dry with about only 0.8 percent of residual sugar and bracing acidity, it has flinty minerality and real length and depth of flavor.… Read more
Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars, Finger Lakes (New York) Rkatsiteli 2006
($20): Rkatsiteli, a grape native to the Caucasus Mountains of Georgia and widely planted in Eastern Europe and the former Soviet Union, has naturally very high acidity and is often used for sweet wines. Although Dr. Frank’s version has 7.5 grams of residual sugar, it finishes bone dry, with an almost bitter almond note. … Read more
Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Lavaux St. Jacques 2006
($96, VOS Selections): This premier cru comes across a little coarser than his Les Cazetiers and shows Burgundy’s earthier side. Although not as refined, it conveys a charming rusticity. It would be a good choice for more robust fare. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 8, 2008… Read more
Jean-Claude Belland, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Vigne Au Saint 2005
($72, VOS Selections): Clos de la Vigne au Saint, one of the many Corton Grand Cru, is well- known as a flagship of Maison Louis Latour’s reds because they are practically the sole owner of the vineyard and consistently make a marvelous wine from it. … Read more
Jean-Claude Belland, Chambertin Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2005
($150, VOS Selections): Although located in Santenay in the Cote de Beaune, Belland owns a small portion–less than an acre–of the grand cru vineyard, Chambertin. His 2005 has the earthy and leathery notes atop red and black fruit flavors that make Chambertin so alluring. … Read more
CD: Cork Dysfunction
We’ve all heard–and probably muttered–aphorisms to explain the disappointment after opening and tasting what was supposed to be a “great wine.” The most common explanation is “bottle variation,” as in, “I had a great bottle of that wine only last week,” or ‘the last bottle of that wine showed much better than this one.”… Read more
Roederer, Champagne (France) 2002
($66, Maisons, Marques and Domaines): Roederer has achieved great success with its 2002 vintage Brut. Quite toasty and powerful, it nonetheless retains grace and finesse. Beautifully balanced, the biscuity, creamy elements extend into the lengthy finish. Although luscious to drink now, the supporting acidity suggests this Champagne will age and improve.… Read more
Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) Capellania Blanco Reserva 2003
($32, Maison Marques and Domaines): Although the vast majority of wines from Rioja are red, there are also white wines, most of which were dismissed by many in the past because of an oxidative character. Marqués de Murrieta’s, made entirely from Viura, is fresh and plush with an engaging, creamy, stone fruit character.… Read more
Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) “Dalmau Reserva” 2004
($174, Maison Marques and Domaines): I am thrilled to see this traditional firm making this modern style of Rioja because it means they have no intention of changing the character of their classic Rioja. Although Tempranillo is still the dominant grape (86%)–Cabernet Sauvignon comprises about 8% of the blend and Graciano makes up the rest–it has no resemblance to their regular Rioja Reserva. … Read more
Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) Reserva 2004
($26, Maison Marques and Domaines): Although mostly Tempranillo, this traditional–American oak aged–Rioja, has a little Garnacha and Manzuelo included in the blend, which I think helps account for the wine’s alluring complexity. The producer purposely avoids the new trend in Rioja of more ripeness and new oak aging in this bottling (they have introduced another bottling to satisfy that side of the market), focusing in this case on harmony. … Read more
Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) “Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva Especial” 2000
($54, Maison Marques and Domaines): The Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva, the flagship wine of the Marqués 
de Murrieta estate, is produced in only great vintages–the 2000 is the fifth since 1978–and entirely from the bodega’s own grapes. A blend of exclusively Tempranillo and Manzuelo (Garnacha and Graciano have been included in other vintages), the wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks and then aged in American oak barrels for approximately three years. … Read more
Alain Soutiran, Champagne (France) Brut NV
($55, Vintage ’59 Imports): Soutiran, a small grower located in Ambonnay, a Grand Cru village 
known for Pinot Noir, makes a stunning and powerful non-vintage Brut from the roughly 50 acres he owns or farms there for other family members. Part of its complexity comes from Soutiran’s practice of aging his reserve wines in barrel as opposed to the more usual practice of using stainless steel tanks. … Read more
Truchard, Carneros (California) Merlot 2004
($28): 
Truchard had fallen off my screen, but this Merlot–along with their Zinfandel and Chardonnay–reminded me that they make stylish wines. Truchard avoids the solo note of bright ripe fruit flavors by incorporating alluring herbal, leafy and earthy elements into this serious Merlot. … Read more
Redwood Creek, California (United States) Merlot 2006
($8): One of the many Gallo labels, this straightforward–but good–wine challenges the proposition advanced by Michael Franz, my colleague at WRO, that California fails to produce many good inexpensive wines. At a minimum, it is one wine that can be chalked up as a win for California. … Read more
Truchard, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Zinfandel 2005
($25): Carneros has the reputation as an area for producing fine Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Merlot. After tasting this wine, perhaps Zinfandel should be added to the list. But then again, it’s not your typical Zinfandel. It certainly has the slightly jammy, distinctly grapey flavors mixed with spice characteristic of the variety. … Read more
Pascal Jolivet, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2006
($26, Wildman): 
It seems that as Sancerre continues to grow in popularity, more of them reflect the varietal, Sauvignon Blanc, than the chalky minerality for which the appellation is rightly known. Thankfully, Jolivet manages to capture the uniqueness of the area with this wine’s mélange of herbaceous pungency underpinned by the classical chalkiness that defines Sancerre. … Read more
Robert Mondavi–The Patriarch of California Wine
No person has had as great an influence on California wine–and how the world viewed it–as Robert Mondavi. Andre Tchelistcheff, Beaulieu Vineyards’ legendary winemaker from 1938 to 1968, made great Cabernet Sauvignon–and less well realized, but no less great–Pinot Noir. Ernest and Julio Gallo sold more California wine (and their company still does) than anyone else. … Read more
(oops), Central Valley (Chile) Carménère – Merlot 2006
($12, Schwartz Olcott Imports): I didn’t care for the 2005 versions of any of the wines sold under 
the Oops label. And although I still don’t care for the name, the wines are definitely more interesting and worth a recommendation. The Carménère, which is two-thirds of the blend, brings nuances of earthiness to the bright prominent cherry fruit flavors.… Read more
Evans & Tate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “The Reserve” 2003
($30, Scott Street Portfolio): This is a good example of Cabernet from the Margaret River area of Western Australia, a region known for producing more elegantly styled wines than the remainder of that continent. A touch of mint and other herbal notes acts as an attractive condiment to the juicy fruit flavors, rather than overpowering them.… Read more
Redwood Creek, California (United States) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($8): Part of the Gallo empire, the Redwood Creek Cabernet is an excellent value. Ripe–but not sweet–mid weight red fruit flavors dominate and are balanced by a hint of supple tannins. It’s a simple everyday Cabernet at the right price. 84 Michael Apstein May 27, 2008… Read more
Laetitia, Arroyo Grande (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($60): Those who complain that California Pinot Noir is simply sweet cherry juice need to try this wonderfully complex wine. Laetitia’s ‘regular’ Pinot Noir is very good and easy to recommend, but if you run across this one, their single vineyard bottling, go for it. … Read more
Oops, Central Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($12, Schwartz Olcott Imports): The 2006 vintage of this high-value producer’s wines stands as a real step up from the 2005 offerings. A dollop (15%) of Carmenere adds herbal nuances that balance the ripe Cabernet black fruit flavors. If only they’d change the name.… Read more
Oops, Central Valley (Chile) Cabernet Franc – Carmenere 2006
($12, Schwartz Olcott Imports): I dislike wines with cutesy names and am reluctant to recommend them. But in this case, the quality of the contents trumps the name. A blend of mostly (84%) Cabernet Franc and the remainder Carmenere, this shows an appealingly leathery, almost smoky character, as opposed to solely pure sweet fruit flavors. … Read more
Veramonte, Casablanca Valley (Chile) “Primus” 2005
($18, Huneeus Vintners): Primus is the upper end Bordeaux-blend created by Agustin 
Huneeus, one of Chile’s–and California’s–most savvy and talented winemakers. Although predominantly a blend of Merlot (51%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (32%), it’s the Carmenere (17%), a grape formerly important but now virtually abandoned in Bordeaux and making a renaissance in Chile, that lends an engaging exotic edge to this glossy wine. … Read more
Los Cardos by Doña Paula, Lujan de Cuyo (Mendoza, Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
($11, Vineyard Brands): Similar to their Los Cardos Syrah, this Cabernet is a good value. It is a ripe, fruit-forward, moderate weight Cabernet that’s nicely balanced–not overdone–with polished tannins and charming black cherry acidity. 86 Michael Apstein May 27, 2008… Read more
Los Cardos by Doña Paula, Lujan de Cuyo (Mendoza, Argentina) Syrah 2006
($11, Vineyard Brands): Dona Paula uses the Los Cardos designation for their lowest level of 
wines. They usually represent excellent value and this Syrah is no exception. Nuances of bacon fat add an exotic element and balance the otherwise straightforward, ripe, plum-like flavors in this thick and juicy wine. … Read more
Snoqualmie Vineyards, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot Reserve 2004
($25): Although easy to drink, Snoqualmie’s Reserve Merlot is definitely not 
an aperitif kind of Merlot. Lovely succulent black fruit flavors are intertwined with hints of damp earth. Chocolate nuances appear in the finish. This polished and well-rounded wine has plenty of structure, but no harsh or astringent tannins. … Read more
Evans & Tate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2004
($18, Scott Street Portfolio): The Margaret River area is justifiably known for the elegance of its wines compared to those from other parts of Australia. This Shiraz fits that mold. Mint and nuances of other herbal flavors complement the primary juicy black fruit impression of this mid weight wine. … Read more
Columbia Crest, Washington (United States) Merlot-Cabernet “Two Vines” 2005
($8): 
Confusingly, the Two Vines designation refers–not the blend of grapes–but to the trellising system they use. I actually preferred this to a more expensive bottling that showed the effect of oak more prominently. With this wine, there is only a hint of oak, which means that the primary red fruit flavors are the focus. … Read more
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (California) Syrah “Black Chinned” 2005
($18): This lovely blend of mostly (77%) Syrah-the remainder is Grenache (12%), Mourvedre (5%), Carignan (4%) and Petite Syrah (2%)–delivers a harmonious balance of black and red fruit flavors complemented by spicy notes. Mild tannins add needed support, and uplifting acidity keeps it fresh and lively. … Read more
Great Wine Via Corporate Management Principles?
With his closely cropped beard and an almost flattop-like haircut, Kaj Ahlmann (pronounced Kye) could double as a slide-rule toting engineer from the 1950s. His winemaking philosophy confirms your first impression when he emphasizes, ‘we collect data all the way through’ and the name of the winery, Six Sigma, accurately reflects his mantra.… Read more
Albert Bichot, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes 2005
($16, Arborway Imports): Bichot, an underrated Burgundy négociant, will attract considerable attention with this bargain-priced, succulent Pinot Noir. It has real Burgundy character–earth notes combined with bright fruit–and is perfect for current consumption. 87 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008… Read more
Clos La Chance, Central Coast (California) Zinfandel “Buff-Bellied” 2005
($18): Another in their line of Hummingbird names–Buff-Bellied–this 
Zinfandel gets added complexity from inclusion of small amounts of Petit Syrah, Primitivo and Alicante Bouchet in the blend. Still plenty ripe, with hints of jammy flavors, delightful spice keeps it from being overdone.… Read more
Château St. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($16): Less pungent than many Sauvignon Blancs, this distinctive wine has a subtle roundness without losing the refreshing edginess and herbal bite characteristic of the varietal. Its fullness and mouth coating texture gives it a big step up from their regular bottling.… Read more