($20): Similarly stylish to their Pinot Blanc, WillaKenzie’s Pinot Gris is more in the full-bodied Alsace style rather than the lighter Italian Pinot Grigio rendition. Those who prefer absolutely dry wines will be disappointed because of the ever so slight hint of sweetness. … Read more
Category Archives: USA – Oregon
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Blanc 2009
($21): WillaKenzie makes lovely wines exclusively from their estate-grown grapes. They are best known for their stylish Pinot Noir–approximately 70% of their vineyards are devoted to that varietal–but they also make excellent examples of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. They planted Pinot Blanc in the early and mid-1990s, which means the vines are starting to enter a mature stage and are capable of making more complex wines. … Read more
Cloudline, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2007
($14): The delicate and able hand of Veronique Drouhin, who is in charge of Domaine Drouhin Oregon and whose family owns Maison Joseph Drouhin in Burgundy, is evident in this charming Pinot Gris. Not as ripe as many–which is a good thing–it has an alluring combination of pear notes and Granny Smith apple-like liveliness.… Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Laurène” 2005
($75): This is one of America’s best bottlings of Pinot Noir. Thankfully, it’s not an overdone powerhouse even thought the Laurène bottling is a selection of their best barrels. (Laurène is the name of the eldest daughter of Veronique Drouhin, who is in charge of the Oregon property). … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2008
($18): Consumers often forget that Oregon producers exceptional Pinot Gris. This wine should remind them. Full and rich, it has hints of melons and nuances of apricots and other stone fruits. Enlivening acidity refreshes the palate and keeps you coming back for more. … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Blanc 2008
($18): Pinot Blanc can be vapid and boring. Not this one. Fuller than most, this lovely example has a stone fruit kind of richness balanced and invigorated by lively acidity in the finish. It’s an excellent choice as an aperitif that could easily be carried to the table to match with grilled fish, a seafood stew or even roast chicken.… Read more
Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) “Tavola” 2007
($25): Ponzi has a well-deserved reputation for making excellent wines. This is what producers call an ‘entry level’ wine. Similar to a second label, it is made from younger vines and a selection of wines that are lighter and more forward or ready to drink. … Read more
Ponzi Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay Reserve 2006
($30): It’s hard to imagine finding a more satisfying $30 Chardonnay. With this classy wine, you feel the effect of oak instead of being bombarded with it. There’s a subtle elegance lurking here, as opposed to a hit-you-over- the-head overtness. Ponzi has captured a minerality complemented–but not smothered–by a subtle creaminess. … Read more
Erath, Dundee Hills (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Estate Selection” 2006
($36): A giant step up from Erath’s ‘Oregon’ Pinot Noir (also reviewed this week), this Estate Selection is serious stuff, a blend of the best wines from six of the estate’s vineyards in the Dundee Hills. This house has a deft hand with oak because it gives this wine a rich texture and added spice without intruding or detracting from the panoply of fruit flavors. … Read more
Erath, Dundee Hills (Oregon) Prince Hill Vineyard 2006
($45): Erath planted his Prince Hill vineyard in 1983, which means the vines now have reasonable age and helps explain the engaging complexity of this wine. As with Erath’s other Pinot Noirs, there is a judicious use of oak aging–less than half of the wine sees new oak barrels–so the grapes and earth, not the oak, speaks. … Read more
Erath, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Blanc 2006
($14): Lest you think Erath is a one-color show (four of their Pinot Noir are viewed this week), try this Pinot Blanc, a varietal that has great potential for producing insipid wine. Fermentation and aging solely in stainless steel tanks, captures delicate floral notes that complement its mid-weight body and zesty finish.… Read more
Erath, Oregon (United States) Pinot Gris 2007
($14): Richer than Erath’s Pinot Blanc, their Pinot Gris has nuances of apricots, peaches and other stone fruits. Vibrant acidity keeps it fresh, beautifully balanced, and carries the flavors into an extended finish. It is neither a vapid ‘Pinot Grigio’ nor a heavy and overdone ‘Pinot Gris.’… Read more
Erath, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Leland Vineyard 2005
($40): Erath has contracted the entire Pinot Noir crop from this 4-acre vineyard every year since 1987, five years after Bruce and Ginny Weber planted it. The wine has slightly more power than Erath’s Prince Hill Pinot Noir (reviewed this week), but maintains finesse, not coming close to the overdone, over extracted ‘Pinot Syrah’ style. … Read more
Ponzi, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Blanc 2006
($18): Pinot Blanc can often be hollow and innocuous. Ponzi’s is neither. Concentrated and weighty–at least for Pinot Blanc–it has a lovely texture and nuances of pears. Bright and balanced, it is a terrific aperitif wine that has enough stuffing to stand up to light first courses or simple sautéed white fish.… Read more
Ponzi, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2006
($18): Although Pinot Noir has become Oregon’s signature wine, you’d be mistaken if you overlooked the state’s white wines. Ponzi, still a family-run winery, was among the first to plant Pinot Gris commercially in the Willamette Valley in 1978. The decision to perform the fermentation and aging entirely in stainless steel tanks allows the wine’s spiced pear character to shine. … Read more
Ponzi, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay Reserve 2005
($35): Ponzi’s non-reserve Chardonnay is sold only at the winery or via the website, so this one is the only one consumers will see in restaurants or in retail stores. But when you see it, grab it. Restrained–more in the ‘Burgundian’ rather than ‘California’ style of Chardonnay–Ponzi made a creamy and complex wine with nuances of minerality that should not be missed. … Read more
Ponzi, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Reserve 2005
($60): A great example of Pinot Noir, Ponzi’s Reserve delivers incredible intensity and weight without being heavy or overdone. As with their Reserve Chardonnay, Ponzi draws on a small amount of purchased fruit for this stylish wine that is filled with ripe spicy red and black fruit flavors complemented by a touch of earthiness.… Read more
Oak Knoll, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2006
($14): This excellent example of what Oregon has to offer in Pinot Gris delivers a subtle nutty creaminess, buttressed by bright acid. A stone fruit-like texture lends added weight without being oily. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 19, 2008… Read more
Adelsheim Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2006
($16): David and Ginny Adelsheim’s eponymous vineyard was one of the founding members of the Oregon wine industry. Best known for their stylish Pinot Noir–especially Elizabeth’s Reserve–Adelsheim’s Pinot Gris releases also shine. The 2006 has nuances of fresh pears and an alluring mouth filling texture complemented by a vibrant freshness.… Read more
Adelsheim Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Elizabeth’s Reserve” 2006
($48): Adelsheim makes this Reserve wine by selecting the best barrels of Pinot Noir in his cellar, which, not coincidently, usually come from grapes grown in their estate vineyards in the Chehalem Mountains. It combines ripe fresh red fruit flavors, spice, and a captivating woodsy character without being heavy or overbearing. … Read more
Archery Summit, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Red Hills Estate 2004
($85): The difference between Archery Summit’s Red Hills Estate and Arcus Pinot Noir shows that the French don’t have a monopoly on the concept of terroir. The Red Hills Estate is a more succulent, much riper, fruitier expression of Pinot Noir, conveying less of the earthy, woodsy character of that grape.… Read more
Archery Summit, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Arcus Estate 2004
($85): Anna Matzinger, Archery Summit’s winemaker since 2002, has done a tremendous job with this wine over the years. The 2004 continues the tradition of a glorious combination of mouth-filling flavors of earth and fruit. Its complexity and delicacy continues to dazzle through the long finish.… Read more
Archery Summit, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Archery Summit Estate 2004
($150): This, the flagship cuvée from this top-notch Pinot Noir producer, is a notch above their other excellent offerings. The Archery Summit Estate bottling combines the succulence of the Red Hills Estate bottling with the earthy complexity of the wine from their Arcus vineyard. … Read more
King Estate, Oregon (USA) Pinot Gris 2005
($16): The 2005 vintage of this always reliable wine tastes delicious, with bright pear fruit flavors, sufficient acidity for balance, and a long, lingering finish. It seems tailor-made for al fresco springtime dining. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 5, 2007… Read more
Domaine Serene, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay Côte Sud Vineyard 2003
($40): Oregon, particularly the Willamette Valley, is well known as the home of stylish Pinot Noir. Chardonnays from this valley south of Portland receive less attention, and acreage devoted to that grape actually fell in recent years, largely because early wines were made with fruit from a clone of Chardonnay from California that turned out to be unsuited to Oregon climate. … Read more
Bethel Heights Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Estate” 2003
($27): Bethel Heights, known for their stunning Pinot Noir, also makes stylish Chardonnay. This 2003 Estate Chardonnay, made from their own grapes, has creaminess atop minerality. The additional bottle age-the 2003 is their current release-lends a gentle complexity. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 31, 2006… Read more
Bethel Heights Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Estate” 2004
($33): Although Bethel Heights focuses on bottling individual Pinot Noir from their distinct vineyards, their ‘Estate’ bottling-from a blend of vineyards-is always appealing and easier on the wallet. The 2004 rendition is a polished combination of red fruit mixed with earthy, smoky flavors.… Read more
Ponzi, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay Reserve 2003
($28): This lush — but not fat — Chardonnay, has the requisite uplifting citric finish to balance the considerable fruity/mineral elements. It’s like drinking lemon cream pie. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2006… Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Arthur” 2004
($30): When Domaine Drouhin Oregon started in 1988, they focused on Pinot Noir, not making commercial quantities of their Chardonnay until the 1996 vintage. To my mind, their Chardonnay has gotten better every year. The 2004 is tightly wound and shows its true glory after some time in the glass.… Read more
Archery Summit, Oregon (United States) Pinot Noir Arcus Estate 2002
($75): Archery Summit, Oregon (United States) Pinot Noir Arcus Estate 2002 ($75): Arcus Estate, a 40 acre vsite, is Archery Summit’s largest vineyard. The Willamette appellation was introduced in 2003, which explains why it’s labeled simply, “Oregon.” (The 2004 vintage will carry the Dundee Hills appellation.)… Read more