Category Archives: Italy – Sicily

Girolamo Russo, Etna Rosso (Sicily, Italy) “‘a Rina” 2020

($34):  This looks like a Rosé in the glass, but fortunately it displays enormous character and complexity, so you know it’s not a rosé.  Girolamo Russo, one of Etna’s top producers, makes a range of terrific wines from that mountain.  This one, ‘a Rina, is a blend, and could be considered his “basic” — though there’s nothing basic about it — wine. Read more

Firriato, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Harmonium” 2014

($41):  Made from one of Sicily’s native grapes, this robust red holds its 14.5 percent stated alcohol effortlessly, without a trace of heaviness.  Smoke and other savory accents complement its dark plum-like fresh and dried fruit notes.  Good balancing acidity keeps this mature beauty bright and fresh while fine tannins lend support without astringency. Read more

Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Cartagho” 2019

($28):  Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s emblematic grape, produces wines that vary and light and fruity to more substantial and robust.  Put this one in the latter category.  Earthy notes support dark fruit character.  Fine tannins lends support and balance so it doesn’t come across as a “fruity” wine, although there is no lack of black fruitiness. Read more

Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Cartagho” 2019

($28):  Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s emblematic grape, produces wines that vary and light and fruity to more substantial and robust.  Put this one in the latter category.  Earthy notes support dark fruit character.  Fine tannins lends support and balance so it doesn’t come across as a “fruity” wine, although there is no lack of black fruitiness. Read more

Duca di Salaparuta, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Passo delle Mule” 2019

($20, Disaronno International):  Duca di Salaparuta, one of the oldest wineries in Sicily, introduced many Americans to the value-packed joy of Sicilian wines decades ago with Corvo, which was made with purchased grapes grown all over the island.  Well, Duca di Salaparuta has evolved and now makes a bevy of distinctive estate wines. Read more

Tenuta Regaleali, Sicilia DOC (Italy) Catarratto “Buonsenso 2020″

($19, Winebow):  Tasca d’Almerita family owns Tenuta Regaleali, a great and reliable name for Sicilian wine.  They have transformed Catarratto, another autochthonous grape, into a fleshy and cutting wine.  (Soon Catarratto will be called Lucido, after one of its clones, for marketing reasons because the Sicilians believe it is easier for foreigners — mainland Italians included — to pronounce.) Read more

Planeta, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG (Sicily, Italy) 2019

($19, Taub Family Selections):  Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only DOCG wine, is a blend of Nero d’Avola and Frapatto, two of Sicily’s autochthonous grapes.  Planeta’s is simply marvelous.  Refined, it delivers a balanced combination of minerals and cherry-like fruit.  Weighing in at a modest 13 percent stated alcohol, it is not particularly opulent, but it is particularly penetrating. Read more

Passopisciaro, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Chardonnay “Passobianco” 2017

($37):  Andrea Franchetti, who also owns Tenuta Trinoro, an estate in Tuscany’s Val D’Orcia, started a winery in Sicily about 20 years ago.  In a bold move, he planted 10 acres of Chardonnay at high elevations (2,500 to 3,000 feet above sea level) in powdery lava soil, figuring that the elevation and soil would impart a distinctive character to this grape. Read more

Gulfi, Sicilia Rosso IGT (Sicily, Italy) “Nero Bufaleffj” 2011

($45):  Gulfi, the first estate in Sicily to give focus on site specificity to Nero d’Avola, continues to making stunning examples of wine from that grape.  This one, from their Bufaleffj vineyard, is eye-opening for its balance and complexity, delivering a ying/yang of black fruit and savory flavors offset perfectly by a hint of bitterness in the finish. Read more