($30): Clos du Val’s Sauvignon Blanc focuses on the racy, grapefruit-y character the grape often imparts. Bright and lively, it’s not an “in your face” kind of Sauvignon Blanc. Indeed, its restraint is appealing and shows the more serious side of the varietal.… Read more
Category Archives: USA – California
Spottswoode, California (United States) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($36): It’s no secret that Spottswoode makes sensational Cabernet Sauvignon. This excellent and stylish Sauvignon Blanc shows they are not a one-horse show. The wine also reminds us to trust the producer rather than relying solely on the AVA (appellation). Since 85 percent of the grapes did not come from one area (Sonoma County 60 percent with the remainder from Napa County), they were obligated to use the broader — and less prestigious — appellation, California. … Read more
Far Niente, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
($158): Consumers can count on Far Niente, a leader in Napa Valley Cabernet, to produce a bold, yet refined, Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2015, fruitier than usual while still combining savory and dark earthy flavors, fits that mold. Fine tannins impart a supple texture that allows for immediate enjoyment. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Miljenko’s Selection” 2013
($90): This generous Cabernet Sauvignon is more evidence — not that it was needed — that Grgich Hills is a fabulously talented producer and that Napa Valley is a great place for Cabernet. The 2013 Grgich Hills’ Cabernet is muscular, but more impressively, it has finesse. … Read more
Spottswoode, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
($185): Spottswoode, one of the oldest producers of the “modern” Napa Valley era, was founded in 1972. They started bottling and selling under their own label a decade later. Far ahead of their time, they have been farming organically since 1985 and was certified organic in 1992, according to their website. … Read more
Jordan, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($55): I have always admired the wines from Jordan — and still do. They never succumbed to fad of boisterous “big” California Cabernets. They have held to their original philosophy of making restrained and elegant wines that deliver incredible flavor and finesse. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Olivet Lane Vineyard 2014
($60): Although Merry Edwards is known best for her sensational Pinot Noir, she also produces exceptional Chardonnay. That should come as no surprise given her history. In the mid 1980s one of her ventures, Merry Vintners, was dedicated solely to Chardonnay production, according to her website.… Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard 2015
($50): Here is a full-bodied, “roasty-toasty” California Chardonnay that will appeal to those who love that style. Plenty ripe, weighing in at a stated 14.5 percent alcohol, this big bold wine has bracing, palate-awakening acidity. Oak influences and a seductive creaminess amplify its richness.… Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County (California) Sauvignon Blanc “Fumé Blanc” 2016
($15): The vision of David Stare, founder of Dry Creek Vineyard in the early 1970s, was to make world-class Sauvignon Blanc just as the French did in the Loire Valley. Well, he and now his family, have continued that effort even after making headline with their other excellent varietal and blended wines. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($36): Merry Edwards is a genius of a winemaker. She makes fabulous Pinot Noir as well as this under-the-radar Sauvignon Blanc. Well, it won’t be under the radar for long because she’s been excelling at this variety for years — and the 2016 continues her streak, as far as I’m concerned. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay Estate Grown 2014
($43): Grgich Hills Estate is a master at Chardonnay, continuing “Mike” Grgich’s tradition. He made a truly world-stunning Chardonnay for another Napa producer, Château Montelena, which shocked the world when, in 1976, it came in first in a blind tasting that included top French white Burgundies. … Read more
Lyndenhurst, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($80): Grapes for Lyndenhurst, an alternate label from Spottswoode Estate Vineyard and Winery, come from Spottswoode’s vineyards supplemental by fruit from a handful of other growers. Weighing in at a stated 13.9 percent alcohol, it’s a gorgeous Napa Valley Cabernet, displaying concentration and elegance. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay “Miljenko’s Selection” 2015
($60): It should come as no surprise that Grgich Hills makes a spectacular Chardonnay since it was “Mike” Grgich who made the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay that stunned the world at the tasting, dubbed, “The Judgement of Paris” in 1976. Their 2015 Miljenko’s Selection is a gorgeous wine: rich, yet not overdone, with bright lemony acidity.… Read more
Duckhorn, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($30): Though Duckhorn Vineyards may be known, rightly so, for their Merlot-based wines, they also make a strikingly good Sauvignon Blanc. Their 2016 marries fruitiness and pungency without the former being tropical or overblown and without the latter being shrill. A suave creaminess likely comes from a touch of Semillon in the blend and the judicious use of oak. … Read more
Gloria Ferrer, Sonoma County (California) “Anniversary Cuvée” 2010
($40): This is a gorgeous sparkling wine from one of California leading sparkling wine producers. A blend of roughly 2/3rds Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay, it delivers a delicately fruity and creamy mixture that enlivens the palate. An attractive hint of yeastiness, from 5 and 1/2 years on the lees adds complexity without weightiness. … Read more
Migration, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard 2014
($68): The orientation of the Santa Maria Valley is unusual in California because in runs East-West rather than the usual North-South. As such, the vineyards there are exposed directly to the cooling influences of the Pacific Ocean. That climatic difference explains the difference in character between Santa Maria-grown Pinot Noir and those from the Russian River Valley. … Read more
Sonoma-Loeb, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch 2015
($40): The most striking aspect of this Pinot Noir is its difference from Sonoma Loeb’s Bateman Ranch bottling. Why extol the differences? Because Pinot Noir is the best red grape for expressing the vineyard and these two wines — Dutton Ranch and Bateman Ranch — do just that. … Read more
Sonoma-Loeb, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Bateman Ranch 2015
($60): Sonoma-Loeb’s Bateman Ranch Pinot Noir emphasizes the mineral-like flavors as opposed to the fruit flavors of their Dutton Ranch bottling. It’s firmer than the Dutton Ranch bottling, but like its brother, it has impeccable balance and suave tannins. Is one “better” than the other? … Read more
Kendall Jackson, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay Jackson Estate, Camelot Highlands 2015
($35): This is an easy wine to recommend for its creamy seductive texture. Some will complain it’s heavy or overdone, but those who like a rich Chardonnay with a hint of butter will embrace it. It does double duty as a stand-alone aperitif or to accompany a roast chicken with a creamy mushroom sauce.… Read more
Clos du Val, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay Estate 2015
($32): Balance. That’s why this wine is so enjoyable. And enjoyable, not just for a sip, but also throughout the meal. There’s the lush ripeness and power you’d expect from Napa Valley Chardonnay, but the cooling influences of the San Pablo Bay on the Carneros region brings out a lovely lemony counterpoint and vivacity.… Read more
Matanzas Creek Winery, Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay 2015
($26): Matanzas Creek has always been a star producer of Chardonnay. They continue their reputation with this one. They manage to deliver satisfying concentration without wandering into the “in your face” character. Restrained, but not silent, this Chardonnay speaks to you without shouting. … Read more
Cambria Estate, Santa Maria Valley (California) Chardonnay “Clone 4” 2015
($30): Santa Maria Valley, though located in Southern California, actually has some very cool areas because the valley runs East-West instead of the more usual North-South orientation. As such, it draws cool air from the Pacific Ocean. Indeed, growers determine what to plant where by assessing how much heat is needed to ripen a particular variety — Chardonnay and Pinot Noir favor western sites while Cabernet Sauvignon needs the heat of more inland — eastern — plots. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Yountville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon State Ranch 2014
($110): Distinctly different from Nickel & Nickel’s other single vineyard Cabernet bottlings, the one from State Ranch appears far more youthful at this stage with its tannic structure showing immediately. It has similar black fruit mixed with nuances of black olives and other savory notes, finishing with a beautiful bit of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Decoy, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
($25): After extolling the virtues of a bevy of $100+ Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s time to return to earth. Ironically, under Duckhorn’s Decoy label, this wine is the real thing. It clearly demonstrates that you needn’t spend triple digits to find satisfying wine with real character. … Read more
MacRostie Winery and Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Wildcat Mountain” 2014
($56): The Sonoma Coast is the latest “hot” — more accurate to say, cool — place for Pinot Noir because of the dramatically cooler climate that its proximity to the Pacific Ocean offers. Less bold than many, MacRostie’s Wildcat Mountain Pinot Noir still delivers ripe red fruit-like flavors accented with spice. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Martin Stelling Vineyard 2014
($160): Nickel & Nickel’s Cabernet from the Martin Stelling vineyard is fascinatingly different from the one from the John C. Sullenger Vineyard. It conveys dark fruit with more minerals, bordering on a tarry element, rather than the floweriness of the Sullenger. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon John C. Sullenger Vineyard 2014
($110): Nickel & Nickel and Far Niente overlap in ownership and philosophy, so it’s not surprising that they overlap in making spectacular wines. Nickel & Nickel focuses on making distinctive Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines from different vineyards in Napa Valley. Although their entire line-up is excellent, what is really impressive is how different the wines are despite similar wine making. … Read more
Far Niente, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
($160): In a word, gorgeous. Ok, two words: Gorgeous and stunning. Sure it’s powerful. But for all its power, it has amazing elegance and gracefulness, which is why it’s so stunning and gorgeous. It has everything you’d want in Napa Valley Cabernet — dark fruit flavors, a hint of savory notes, plush tannins and a seemingly never ending finish. … Read more
Sequoia Grove, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($40): This wonderfully refined mineraly Cabernet Sauvignon is a pleasure to drink now. I’m certain it will gain complexity — though it has plenty now — and nuance with age, but the winemaking team at Sequoia Grove has polished the tannins so they provide necessary structure without a trace of astringency or roughness. … Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($26): Presqu’ile takes advantage of their location in the Santa Maria Valley, which is cooled by the influences of the Pacific Ocean, to focus on grapes that show their best in that kind of climate: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($35): As I said in my review of Presqu’ile’s Pinot Noir, you can’t go wrong with their wines. It’s worth repeating. The first sip of this Chardonnay awakens your palate with restrained richness balanced by an enlivening citrus character. With air, more flavors emerge, but it still retains its vibrating soul. … Read more
Patz & Hall, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Dutton Ranch 2014
($44): Dutton Ranch, which consists of 1,100 acres of vineyards spread over the Russian River Valley that are owned or leased by the Dutton family, is a famous name in California wine. Lots of top name California producers buy grapes from Dutton, including Patz & Hall who has hit the mark with this 2014 Chardonnay.… Read more
Patz & Hall, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard 2014
($55): Patz & Hall have long been known for making single vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir by contracting with top growers for grapes from those vineyards. This one, from the Hudson Vineyard, which is wholly within the Napa Valley portion of Carneros, has lush generosity without being over the top or heavy. … Read more
Laurel Glen Vineyards, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 2013
($75): Laurel Glen, a true pioneering producer in Sonoma County, currently flies under most everyone’s radar. Under Bettina Sichel’s leadership, that’s slowly changing. Planted in 1968 by Carmen Taylor, Chateau St. Jean purchased grapes for their famed Lauren Glen Cabernet in the 1970s. … Read more
Cobb Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Rice-Spivak Vineyard 2014
($75): Cobb’s Rice-Spivak Vineyard Pinot Noir (13.3 percent) is more floral and opulent compared to their Emmaline Ann bottling at this stage, but still impeccably balanced. Again, the flavors dance across the palate, leaving you wondering how such intensity can be so light. … Read more
Cobb Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Emmaline Ann Vineyard 2014
($75): Ross Cobb has as much experience with Sonoma Coast vineyards as anybody, having worked at Williams Selyem, Flowers, and Hirsch, all notable Sonoma Coast producers. Ross, like Jadot’s legendary winemaker, Jacques Lardière who is currently making Jadot’s Oregon Pinot Noir, favors picking that grape earlier in the New World’s warmer vineyards (at least compared to Burgundy) to preserve secondary aromas and flavors that are essential to the character of the wine. … Read more
Cobb Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard 1906 Block Pommard 2014
($80): Cobb’s Coastlands Vineyard, “1906 Block Pommard” Pinot Noir is the “heavyweight” of this trio despite being the lowest in alcohol (12.5 percent), reminding us, yet again, that sometimes less is more with regard to ripeness, especially with this variety. The juicy Coastlands Vineyard displays more black fruit compared to the red fruit character of the Rice Spivak bottling. … Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir 2015
($42): If you see a wine from Presqu’ile (pronounced “press-keel”) on a wine list or in your retailer’s shop, buy it. You’ll likely be very happy. Take this Pinot Noir, for example. The Santa Maria Valley is a superb locale for the so-called “cool climate” grapes, such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay because the valley runs East-West. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
($72): As usual and as expected, Grgich Hills’ current release Cabernet Sauvignon is outstanding. I guess the question really is whether this producer can ever do anything wrong. Year after year, the team at Grgich Hills produces stunning, balanced wines from a slew of different varieties of grapes, even Zinfandel. … Read more
Raeburn, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($20): This is a wine that presents a problem for a wine critic. I personally do not care for the in-your-face character, which favors power over elegance. But it is well made and an excellent example of that style of Chardonnay, which I know many people adore. … Read more
Stewart Cellars, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($40): I had no familiarity with Stewart Cellars until I tasted this Chardonnay. The winery is clearly now on my radar screen. It should be on yours. This is a show-stopping Chardonnay — not because of its power, but because of its stylish elegance. … Read more
Stewart Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($25): Founded in only 2000, Stewart Cellars buys grapes from growers they respect. This Sauvignon Blanc comes from the Stanly Ranch Vineyard in Napa Valley. A judicious use of oak imparts a hint of creaminess that balances the bite of Sauvignon Blanc without eviscerating it.… Read more
Freemark Abbey, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($25): Who knew that Freemark Abbey made excellent Sauvignon Blanc? Of course, they are an iconic producer of Cabernet Sauvignon and some incredibly lush sweet wines. It’s crisp and laser-like, with a snappy bite that is not aggressive. Plenty of body and depth balances its knife-like cutting edginess. … Read more
Shooting Star, Mendocino County (California) Chardonnay 2015
($14): Consumers looking for wines that over deliver for the price should embrace Jed Steele’s Shooting Star label. Steele, known for nuance rather than over the top opulence in his Chardonnay, maintains that style with this one. A hint of pineapple-like tropical fruit flavors are kept in check and balanced by wonderfully racy acidity. … Read more
Shooting Star, Lake County (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($14): Renowned California winemaker Jed Steele is behind the Shooting Star. Steele buys grapes and wines from others, blends, ages and bottles them under this label. His talents at blending shine in this well-priced Sauvignon Blanc. It’s a nicely balanced compromise combining the lively bite of Sauvignon Blanc with the barest hint of fleshiness, which tames the potentially aggressive nature of the grape. … Read more
Stewart Cellars, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Rosé 2016
($28): As regular WineReviewOnline readers know, I’d usually prefer a chilled light red wine to the vast majorities of innocuous rosé on the market. Here’s an exception — perhaps because it tastes like a light red because of a touch of tannin in finish.… Read more
Gundlach Bundschu, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($27): This is a nicely balanced Chardonnay that expresses both a subtle fruitiness and spice. Bright acidity keeps it lively and fresh. The location of the vineyards in a cooler area — the Sonoma Coast — helps account for the refined, not overblown, style. … Read more
Jordan, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($32): Jordan makes just two wines, this Chardonnay and a Cabernet Sauvignon, which may help explain why they are so consistently excellent. It also helps that they have never strayed from their style — favoring elegance and finesse over shear power. … Read more
J. Lohr, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay “October Night” 2015
($25): J. Lohr’s October Night Chardonnay is riper compared to the Arroyo Vista bottling — but still not too ripe — with a pronounced floral component, which would allow you to drink a glass before dinner. But, similar to the Arroyo Vista, it, too, has vibrancy in the finish that makes it a good choice at the dinner table.… Read more
J. Lohr, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay “Arroyo Vista” 2015
($25): J. Lohr was one of, if not the first, to embrace Arroyo Secco appellation of Monterey County when he planted vines there in 1972. His experience has allowed him to differentiate vineyards within the appellation. This Chardonnay from Arroyo Vista vineyard is clearly different from the one labeled October Night — it’s not just a marketing gimmick. … Read more