($80, Becky Wasserman Selection): 
The hamlet of Blagny sits high on the slope within the limits of Meursault and adjacent to Puligny-Montrachet. Red wines from this terroir carry the Blagny appellation, while whites are labeled Meursault-Blagny. The elevation of the site, which keeps the grapes cool, plus the talent of Benjamin Leroux accounts for the wine’s charm and balance. … Read more
Category Archives: France – Burgundy
2019 Burgundies: A Mixed Bag
While consistency is rarely a word used when describing Burgundies, the 2019 Burgundies present the consumer with an even greater-than-usual stylistic variation. The usual suspects explain the diversity of the wines: Frost, poor flowering, and heat. Frost, which affected areas almost capriciously—some vineyards lost 40 percent of their grapes, while adjacent ones were spared—reduced the crop in many appellations. … Read more
Dominique Piron, Coteaux Bourguignons (Burgundy, France) 2016
($12): 
Coteaux Bourguignons, a relatively new appellation in Burgundy, has few rules, allowing growers broad latitude. They can blend Burgundy’s Pinot Noir and Beaujolais’s Gamay, along with a couple of obscure varieties, grown anywhere in Burgundy from Chablis in the north to Beaujolais in the south. … Read more
Dominique Piron, Beaujolais Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2019
($20, Baron Francois): 
Yes, some Beaujolais is white. And it’s worth looking for because it frequently delivers great value. As white Burgundies, even from the Mâconnais, rise in price, consumers need to search elsewhere for value for French Chardonnay-based wines. Made exclusively from Chardonnay, white Beaujolais accounts for only about five percent of the region’s production. … Read more
What am I Drinking Now? Pernot Belicard
Pernot Belicard 2017 Bourgogne Côte d’Or
Domaine Pernot Belicard is a name to remember because it will soon be included among the top names for white wine in all of Burgundy. The Pernot part is Philippe Pernot, grandson of Paul Pernot, a legendary producer in Puligny-Montrachet.… Read more
Louis Jadot: producer profile
It’s unbeknown to many that Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s most venerable négociants, is also one of the region’s major growers – and a top one at that.
Jadot owns or controls over 141 hectares of vineyards in the Côte d’Or, the majority of which are Premier and Grand Cru.… Read more
Louis Jadot, Côte de Beaune-Villages, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026Warm vintages such as 2018, provide less prestigious appellations, such as this one, with often-needed ripeness which enhances their appeal. Though a négociant bottling, winemaker Frédéric Barnier included some declassified estate fruit from Santenay, Monthélie, Chorey- and Savigny-lès-Beaune, which likely accounts for the wine’s density.
Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey, Beaumonts, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2028Chorey lès Beaune has no 1er cru and much of its vineyards lie on the other side of the D974 road connecting Dijon and Beaune. Les Beaumonts climat, however, lies on the ‘good’ side of the road, nestled between Aloxe-Corton and Savigny-lès-Beaune, which perhaps explains part of the nexpected grandeur for this unassuming village wine.
Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Beaune, 1er Cru Chouacheux, Burgundy, 1995
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2025The 1er Cru Chouacheux lies near the bottom of the slope, just below Vignes Franches, in the southern portion of Beaune, an area known for more muscular wines. This 1995 has developed marvelously, displaying clean mushroomy nuances.
Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Corton Les Pougets Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2026 – 2036Jadot’s Pinot Noir in the Corton Les Pougets climat (also the site for their Corton-Charlemagne) is planted high up on the slope and faces south, which likely explains its consistent ripeness. The 2018 is, like Jadot’s other 2018 Côte de Beaune bottlings, wonderfully fresh and lively, balancing its iron-tinged fleshiness.
Domaine Louis Jadot, Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2002
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2031 At nearly 20 years of age, Jadot’s fabulous 2002 Bonnes Mares is just starting to show a hint of maturity. It conveys the Chambolle plushness combined with a crushed stone mineral component. For all its depth and power, its finesse is what makes this wine memorable.Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Beaune, 1er Cru Clos des Ursules, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2033Still owned by the Jadot family, (hence, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot), this 2.8 hectare walled plot included within the 1er cru Vignes Franches, is Jadot’s flagship Beaune bottling. The 2018, to my mind, is one of the best Clos des Ursules Jadot has ever made – it is explosive, delivering both power and finesse, buttressed by freshness.
Domaine Louis Jadot, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2026 – 2036Jadot’s 0.4 hectares of this prized site lies near the top of the slope and densely planted (10,000 vines/ha). The 2018 came in at 14 percent alcohol, reflecting a rare level of ripeness, but nonetheless, displays marvelous acidity, which keeps the wine full of energy.
Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Clos de la Croix de Pierre, Pernand-Vergelesses, 1er Cru En Caradeux, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026Jadot typically transforms Chardonnay from this east-facing parcel in the 1er cru En Caradeux climat into a readily accessible wine. The overt and forward 2018 fits that mould, delivering a ripe fruitiness buttressed by fresh minerality.
Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey, Le Clos Blanc, Beaune, 1er Cru Grèves, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2030Pierre-Henry Gagey’s grandfather planted Chardonnay in this vineyard about 70 years ago. Then, Pierre-Henry’s father purchased another 0.8 hectares, which they planted entirely to Chardonnay. One of few fine white wines from Beaune, Le Clos Blanc is always a generous wine.
Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2011
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026At a decade of age, this Jadot Corton-Charlemagne is a stunning surprise from this poorly-regarded vintage. Bright, fresh and long, it delivers distinct minerality, depth and an alluring hint of orange-rind spice. It’s a beautifully developed Corton-Charlemagne that is just hitting its stride and shows no signs of fading soon.
Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers, Les Demoiselles, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034Maison Louis Jadot owns half of this 1.05 hectare lieu-dit that lies on the northern end of the Chevalier-Montrachet climat (Maison Louis Latour owns the other half). Typically, it is stonier and firmer with less richness compared to Montrachet itself.
Domaine Louis Jadot, Meursault, 1er Cru Perrieres, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034Jadot’s parcel lies near the top of the Les Perrières Dessus lieu-dit, a cooler site, which explains, in part, why this wine has such brilliant acidity, and, as a consequence, incredible length. Winemaker Frédéric Barnier also notes that they blocked the malolactic fermentation, preserving the more prominent malic acid in the wine.
Simonnet-Febvre, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2018
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
Simonnet-Febvre, a leading Chablis-based grower and négociant, sees plenty of potential for Irancy. They bottle this one as well as two from the lieux-dits of Paradis and Veaupessiot. The 2018 Irancy, a field blend of Pinot Noir and César, shows considerable depth despite a lower stated alcohol -13% -than expected for the hot 2018 vintage.
Tasting five decades of Louis Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne
Corton-Charlemagne, one of the world’s greatest white wines, needs a decade to blossom fully and to show why it deserves its grand cru status. And then, like a great red wine, the best vintages from a top producer remain at their peak, on a plateau, for decades.… Read more
Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Ste. Claire” 2019
($24): 
Jean-Marc Brocard, one of my favorite producers in Chablis, consistently makes a stunning array of wines. I can’t remember a wine from them that failed to impress. The family-run estate farms organically and shuns the use of new oak barrels because they want to emphasize the character the site imparts to the grapes. … Read more
Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Château de la Maltroye 2018
($96, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
Château de la Maltroye, a consistently reliable producer of both red and white wines, succeeded admirably in 2018. This white, from their monopole, exhibits the broader and weightier minerality characteristic of Chassagne, compared to Puligny. Good acidity balances and amplifies its charms. … Read more
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1978
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2021The 1978, a favourite for decades, is now after 40-plus years, on its decline. This ‘orange wine’ still has good depth, providing nuttiness, dried stone fruit-like flavours, and an exotic twinge, all supported by lemony acidity.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1979
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2021The 1979 continues to outshine the 1978 and remains on a plateau. Orange in colour, it delivers a spice box of flavours along with hints of coffee and smoke. A refined wine, it remains balanced and elegant despite bombarding the senses.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1982
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2021Clean and fresh aromas contradict the suspicious orange-y colour. An initial crispness on the palate puts to rest the fear than it is over the hill. Brilliant acidity balances nut-like nuances and dried fruit flavours of maturity.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1985
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2022Much like the 2018, the 1985 was precocious from the start. I never would have imagined its graceful evolution at 35 years of age. Orange-coloured now, it displays the panoply of mature rich flavours – dried fruits, nuttiness, and spice – yet the mineral-like aspect of Corton-Charlemagne persists.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1989
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2025Unbelievable! At 31 years of age, the 1989 retains a bright golden colour without an orange tinge. Displaying a subtle array of apricot-like notes, toasty nuttiness and delicate spice, it enlivens the palate with its amazing freshness.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1990
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2025The 1990 and the 1989 have long provided a fascinating comparison, with the former being just a touch riper and the latter a bit more energetic. At 30 years of age, the differences, though less dramatic, remain.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1996
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2022A suspicious orange colour notwithstanding, the 1996, at 24 years of age, was a success both aromatically and on the palate. It was bright and fresh without a hint of unpleasant oxidation despite the colour. Rich and creamy, with nuances of stone fruits, its minerality was still evident.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1997
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2023
The stature of the 1997, a not highly regarded vintage especially for whites, was a complete surprise. Dark straw without a trace of orange, it was amazingly and surprisingly fresh, displaying an alluring and balanced combination of pineapple-like spice and creaminess.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1999
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2028Despite its two decades of age, the 1999 remains straw coloured and immediately fresh on the nose. Luxurious richness for which Corton-Charlemagne is known is front and center. Mint-like herbal notes and a firm mineral element add dazzle in the finish.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2002
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2023The 2002 highlights a downside of vertical tastings. By itself, the straw-yellow 2002 is stylish and compelling. But it is overshadowed next to the 2004 and 1999, lacking the precision and elegance of the best. Still, at 18 years, it has marvelous depth and a vibrant balance of fruit and spice.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2004
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2031There’s no surprise here. The 2004 remains fabulous as it has been since release. There’s hardly any sign of age, except a darker straw colour. Subtle spice and pineapple-like fruitiness complement its minerality. Paradoxically explosive, it exhibits real finesse and grace, befitting its grand cru status.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2005
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026Though a dark straw colour similar to the 2004, the 2005 is riper, reflecting the vintage, with more melons than spice. Still, characteristic peppery notes come through nicely. Indeed, over the years tasting them side-by-side, the 2005 has always been riper and richer, while the 2004, racier and sleeker.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2008
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2031Despite its age, the 2008 takes time to express itself after pulling the cork. Amazingly, it improves as it sits in the glass. Golden yellow, the 2008 delivers a marvelous ying and a yang of white pepper-like spice and pineapple-like fruit.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2009
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2028Latour’s steely style explains why the 2009 is another success in a warm year not known for great white wines. Clearly ripe, but without a trace of over ripeness, it displays more pineapple than pepper, retaining elegance despite the richness.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2010
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2031The 2010 has a great presence and, along with the 2004 and 2008, is my favourite for drinking now. As would be expected with a decade of age, the colour has taken on a light golden hue and the bouquet is far more developed and immediately apparent.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2011
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2025The 2011 is another surprise because it’s the product of arguably the worst year of the decade for whites. Yet, at nearly a decade, it remains youthfully reticent with a still light straw colour and profile.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2013
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2027Still pale straw in color, the 2013 is a surprising success in a difficult year. The richness that comes with maturity is starting to emerge and is nicely balanced by freshness and spice. Long and graceful, this still youthful wine is lovely to drink now.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2015
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2030The wine’s pale straw colour and reticent initial impression announces its youth. The spice element is far more apparent than the melon-y one in this tightly wound wine. Beautifully balanced, it blossoms, but remains youthful, as it sits in the glass.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2017
Drinking Window: 2027 – 2040This youthful wine shows the expected pineapple-like spiciness buttressed by great structure and energy. Pale yellow, it’s surprisingly appealing now, despite its youthful vigour. The sumptuous richness of mature Corton-Charlemagne starts to peek through as it sits in the glass.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2026 – 2036Though the vintage was warm and yields were high – not, one would think, a good combination for a vibrant white wine – the 2018 Corton-Charlemagne is just that. It is yet another example how wine made from great terroirs in the hands of talented producers can turn out fine even under adverse conditions.
Jean Pascal et Fils, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) “Les Enseignères” 2019
($56, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
This lieu-dit, entitled only to a village appellation, lies across the road, but downhill from the Grand Cru Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet. Even in Jean Pascal’s talented hands, this village wine is not in the Grand Cru category, but it is more impressive than many producers’ premier cru — and at a far more attractive price. … Read more
Domaine Michel Bouzereau et Fils, Meursault (Burgundy, France) “Les Grands Charrons” 2018
($68, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
It’s hard to go wrong with the wines from Domaine Michel Bouzereau, a leading name in Meursault. Here are my notes for this wine from a visit in November 2019: “Good as most people’s 1er cru. … Read more
Domaine Paul Pernot et ses Fils, Bourgogne Blanc Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) 2019
($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
Domaine Paul Pernot, one of the top producers in Puligny-Montrachet, opts to use the new appellation, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, for this wine that they formerly labeled as Bourgogne Blanc. The new appellation requires that the grapes come exclusively from the Côte d’Or, the heart of Burgundy.… Read more
Domaine Lamarche, Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chaumes 2018
($140, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
Vosne-Romanée could be considered the most revered village in Burgundy. Its wines, even those sporting just a village appellation, carry hefty price tags. And with the 25 percent tariffs, the prices are truly extraordinary. That said, this is a pretty extraordinary wine. … Read more
Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roy 2018
($58, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
Domaine Bart is an A-list producer. Of course, their Grand Cru Bonnes Mares and Charmes-Chambertin are stunning. But, if you are looking for something that does not require taking out a mortgage before purchasing, look to their array of wines from Marsannay, a sleepy village north of Gevrey-Chambertin. … Read more
Domaine René Leclerc, Gevrey-Chambertin (Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France) Clos Prieur 2018
($77, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
The Clos Prieur vineyard, which is just across the road from Mazi-Chambertin, a Grand Cru, covers two appellations. The upper part is Premier Cru and lower part carries a village appellation. But once again, producer can trump geography. … Read more
Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Château de la Maltroye 2018
($80, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): This 2018 Clos du Château de la Maltroye, a monopole of the Château de la Maltroye, is one of the best red wines from Chassagne-Montrachet I’ve ever had. It’s the epitome of power and grace. Savory elements complement gorgeous dark fruity ones. … Read more
Gilles Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Duresses Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection 2018
($43): 
With prices of Burgundy having gone through the roof, it’s a delight to find one that’s affordable, at least by Burgundy standards. As I’ve long maintained, villages off the beaten path, such as Auxey-Duresses which sits behind Meursault, and talented producers who, for whatever reason, have never gotten the praise they deserve, like Gilles Lafouge, is the combination consumers should seek out. … Read more