($38): Château Malartic Lagravière, one of only six properties in Pessac-Léognan to be honored for both their reds and their whites in the 1953 Crus Classés des Graves classification, makes an array of stylish wines. Take this one, Le Comte de Malartic, the second white wine of the estate, for example. … Read more
Category Archives: France – Bordeaux
Château Boutisse, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2019
($41, Vintus): Usually when you see “Grand Cru” on a label it represents a higher level in a classification or stratification of a region. Not so in Saint-Émilion where it is an appellation, not an indicator of quality. The appellations of Saint-Émilion and Saint-Émilion Grand Cru are identical geographically. … Read more
Château Tour Bayard, Montagne-Saint-Émillion (Bordeaux, France) 2019
($24, Vintus): Consumers often overlook Bordeaux because of an image that the wines are rarified, expensive, and need considerable aging. That criticism may apply to the top few properties, but trust me, there are scores of estates that make well-priced wines that are ready to drink now, like this one. … Read more
Château Recougne, Bordeaux Supérieur (France) 2019
($17, Vintus): Château Recougne consistently displays the quintessential Bordeaux profile of fruit and what I like to call, “not just fruit” character. This refined mid-weight wine entices with a subtle combination of red fruits, a dash of riper black fruit, and spice, not sheer power. … Read more
Château Talbot, Saint-Julien (Bordeaux, France) “Connétable” 2018
($50): Château Talbot has consistently been a good value for top-end Bordeaux. Though classified as a 4th Growth in the 1855 Médoc Classification, its recent vintages effectively rank higher. Talbot’s 2nd wine, the 2018 Connétable, is especially noteworthy because of its luxurious texture and enjoyment it brings now. … Read more
Clos des Lunes, Bordeaux (France) “Lune Blanche” 2019
($20, Monsieur Touton Selection): The Barnard family, owners of the stellar Domaine de Chevalier, one of the top estates in Pessac Léognan, owns Clos des Lunes, a property located in the Sauternes region of Bordeaux. The care they take with their wines from Domaine de Chevalier show in their dry white wines from Clos des Lunes. … Read more
Famille Bouey, Bordeaux (France) “Maison Blanche” 2020
($17, Quintessential Wines): This is a perfect example of why place matters. Here is the same blend of Merlot (85%) and Cabernet Sauvignon from the same vintage made by the same producer as Bouey’s Oh La Vache. The only difference is the location of the grapes. … Read more
Famille Bouey, Bordeaux (France) “Les Parcelles No 8” 2020
($20, Quintessential Wines): This third offering from Famille Bouey shows what happens when you substitute Cabernet Franc for Cabernet Sauvignon. The blend is still Merlot-heavy (80%), but Cabernet Franc replaces its brother. I assume the name, Les Parcelles No 8, refers to particular plots where Cabernet Franc and Merlot do especially well. … Read more
Château Couhins-Lurton, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) “Acte II” Blanc 2020
($50): André Lurton, a master of white Bordeaux, saved this legendary estate (it was awarded Grand Cru Classé Graves in 1959) from extinction in the early 1970s when he purchased a portion of it. He subsequently acquired the rest of it, rejuvenated the vines and the cellar, and, as they say, the rest is history. … Read more
Château Couhins-Lurton, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) Blanc 2020
($60): This wine shows the majesty of white wines from Pessac-Léognan. You would never suspect it is made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc because the focus is not on fruitiness, but rather on hard to describe flavors of wet earth and minerals. … Read more
Château Rollan de By, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2015
($48): Château Rollan de By is a perpetual overachiever, and one of the several properties that now comprise Jean Guyon led Domaine Rollan de By and includes Château Greysac. The French wine authorities have awarded it Cru Bourgeois status, a category that sits just below the more prestigious Cru Classé. … Read more
Jacques Lurton, Entre Deux Mers (Bordeaux, France) Sauvignon Blanc “Diane” 2020
($14): If there is anyone who can made wine from Sauvignon Blanc, it’s Jacques Lurton, from the family that owns many properties through Bordeaux that produce a consistently stunning array of wines, both red and white. This lean and crisp Sauvignon Blanc conveys an appealing herbaceous aspect. … Read more
Château Lassègue, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2018
($52, Sovereign Wine Imports): California meets Saint-Emilion in this broad-shouldered Merlot/Cabernet Franc-dominant blend. The unnecessarily heavy bottle predicts the wine’s style. Though mostly black fruit-driven at this stage, a lovely mineral tarriness appears in the finish. I suspect more complexity will appear with bottle age. … Read more
Jacques Lurton, Bordeaux (France) Cabernet Sauvignon “Diane” 2020
($14): The Lurton name is famous in Bordeaux. The recently deceased André Lurton was instrumental in carving out the Pessac-Léognan appellation from Graves. The family owns more than 20 châteaux and nephew Pierre Lurton manages Château d’Yquem, the greatest property in Sauternes. … Read more
Château Surain, Bordeaux (France) 2019
($11): With its 15 percent-stated alcohol, this deeply colored and broad-based, bold Bordeaux emphasizes ripe and lush fruitiness, yet has sufficient balancing herbal character. Good acidity keeps it fresh and a pleasant hint of bitterness in the finish adds to its character. … Read more
New Bordeaux Varieties
If this keeps up, the French will need to stop complaining about bureaucratic delays. In just two years, the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO), the regulatory body for French wines, has approved six new grape varieties that can be planted in Bordeaux and included in the blend of the wines. … Read more
From Canada’s Quench Magazine: En Primeur has stood the test of time…
Château Lalande-Borie, Saint Julien, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2012
($37): It’s not often you see Cru Classé Bordeaux that’s ready to drink for under $40. Although you won’t see Cru Classé on the label, Château Lalande-Borie was formerly a part of Château Lagrange, which was classified as a Cru Classé in 1855, which means that technically, it still is. … Read more
Château Ducluzeau, Listrac – Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2015
($27): Château Ducluzeau is a sleeper, in part, because the production is small, about 5,000 bottles annually. The 2015 is an extraordinary value, well worth the search. Owned by Bruno Borie’s mother (he’s the managing director of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou), it is uncommonly suave for a wine from Listrac. … Read more
Terroir in Bordeaux
Part of my enthusiasm for wine, and I’m sure other’s as well, is that the character of the wine is, or at least should be, a reflection of where the grapes were grown. For me, this is a fabulous expression of Nature and an almost magical one at that. … Read more
Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint Julien (Médoc, Bordeaux, France) 2015
($117): In a word, show-stopping. Léoville Poyferré has really upped their game beginning with the 2010 vintage. They made significant changes in the winery that year, installing smaller fermenting vats to allow them to have even more precision in fermenting grapes from the different vineyard parcels. … Read more
Château Lagrange, Saint-Julien (Médoc, Bordeaux, France) 2015
($55): The 2015 vintage for red Bordeaux is, by and large, wonderful. In general, the wines deliver ripe flavors accompanied by sufficient structure — tannins and acidity — that prevent them from falling all over themselves. Château Lagrange, which has just gone from strength to strength over the last two decades, made an impressive wine in 2015. … Read more
2015 Bordeaux: A Vintage to Buy
The wines from Bordeaux are definitely not the darlings of the breed of new-wave sommeliers whose wine lists are heavy with “natural” wines, orange wines, or selections from obscure areas–which all too often turn out to be obscure for good reason. … Read more
Château Rollan de By, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2012
($40): A Merlot-dominant blend, the Château Rollan de By has been classified as a Cru Bourgeois, a group of 200+ properties lumped just below the Cru Classé level, Bordeaux’s top strata. For me, the wines from these estates, such as Château Rollan de By, offer Bordeaux’s greatest value.… Read more
Château Coutet, Barsac (Bordeaux, France) 2014
($44): Sweet wines, such as this one, need to be judged on their verve and acidity, not just their luxurious richness. On that count, the 2014 Château Coutet is a winner. It has plenty of energy to balance its honeyed character so it’s not cloying at all, but rather refreshing. … Read more
Château Phélan Ségur, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2014
($40): Under Véronique Dausse’s management Château Phélan Ségur has catapulted into the top ranks. Her team produced a positively gorgeous wine in 2014. Though refined and polished, it retained the attractive gritty earthiness that makes the wines of St. Estèphe so engaging. … Read more
Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2014
($58): Olivier Bernard, owner of Domaine de Chevalier, believes that the wines from Pessac-Léognan should be “feminine, not a powerhouse.” In keeping with his philosophy, Domaine de Chevalier red is never a block-busting powerhouse. But it’s always a majestic wine. The 2014, while less concentrated and less dense than others from Pessac-Léognan, is exciting to taste. … Read more
Château Coufran, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2014
($18): Château Coufran, an oddity on the Left Bank because of its high proportion of Merlot, combines a leafy earthy component with fine tannins in their 2014. It’s a steal. And just because Coufran is not a “classified growth” (that is, it was not classified as Grand Cru Classé in 1855) do not dismiss its ability to develop with age. … Read more
Château La Lagune, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2014
($40): A wine from a Chateau listed in famous 1855 Classification of Bordeaux — a so-called Classified Bordeaux — for $40 is a rarity. Especially when it’s not the Chateau’s “second” wine, but actually their “grand vin.” Château La Lagune has always been under-rated, delivering more than its price suggested. … Read more
Bordeaux’s 2014s: An Excellent, Well-Priced Vintage
The press regarding the 2014 vintage in Bordeaux, written in the spring of 2015 after the “en premieur” tastings (a week long series of tastings of “representative” barrel samples in Bordeaux) was lukewarm. The vintage was damned with faint praise (e.g.,… Read more
Château Lassègue, St. Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) “Les Cadrans de Lassègue” 2012
($29, Jackson Family Wines): This, the second wine of Château Lassègue, a property in the Jackson Family portfolio, is a marvelous buy. More polished than many second wines, it conveys a savory, almost funky — in a nice way — complement to its bright fruity flavors. … Read more
Château Climens, Barsac (Sauternes, Bordeaux, France) 2002
($74): As the table of guests sipped this sweet wine with a cheese course they fell silent. Animated conversation drew to a halt — all that was heard was “ah” or “wow, this is good!” Sweet wines in general, and Sauternes in particular, are an under-appreciated category. … Read more
2013 Bordeaux: Like Wagner’s Music, It’s Not as Bad as It Sounds
In November 2013, Alan Sichel, chairman of Bordeaux’s guild of wine merchants, told Bloomberg Business, “No one will be excited by the 2013 vintage [in Bordeaux].” That comment turned out to be high praise compared to how others in the trade described the vintage–“a catastrophe”–at the time.… Read more
Château Durfort-Vivens, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) “Vivens” 2009
($38): I highly recommend the second wines of the top estates in Bordeaux, especially as the prices of the grand vins make them unattainable for most of us. Vivens from Château Durfort-Vivens is an especially attractive one. Château Durfort-Vivens, classified as a 2nd growth in the Médoc classification of 1855, is regaining its former stature under the guidance of Gonzague Lurton, part of the family whose name implies excellence in Bordeaux. … Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2012
($35): Although this is comprised of a blend similar to that of the 2005 Les Arums, the richness in the 2012 comes across as heavy. While it may be going through an awkward stage now, I doubt it will ever deliver the pleasure the 2005 provides.… Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2010
($35): A lovely firm stony quality offsets the toasty richness. At this stage, the elements are not fully integrated and it lacks the elegance of the 2005.
88 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2015… Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2005
($40): A rich wine, no doubt a result of the vintage and the inclusion of Muscadelle and a healthy amount of Sauvignon Gris in the blend. Creamy and glossy, it has developed nicely after a decade, retaining a surprising vigor.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2015… Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2013
($34): There’s magic in this wine. Fresh and precise, it conveys citrus notes and engaging bit of spice. It maintains plenty of richness, which is buttressed by freshness and vivacity. The pungency of Sauvignon Blanc is more apparent here since the proportion of that variety has been increased at the expense of Sémillon and Sauvignon Gris. … Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2014
($35): The 2014 vintage was the first that came entirely from Lagrange’s new plantings. Compared to the 2013, the 2014 is slightly more intense without losing any elegance or precision. It conveys a marvelous combination of floral notes, grapefruit rind-like punch and even a hint of white pepper. … Read more
Château Magdelaine, St. Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2010
($102): Château Magdelaine, one of only two properties in St. Emilion owned by the Pomerol-focused Moueix family, has always been one of my favorites from that appellation. The 2010 is particularly appealing with a glorious and impeccably balanced mixture of floral, fruity and mineral components wrapped in fine firm tannins. … Read more
Château Phélan-Ségur, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2008
($54): The wines from the 2008 vintage in Bordeaux are overlooked because they were firm upon release and were followed by the opulent and immediately appealing 2009s and then the refined and stylish 2010s. But, as is always the case, talented producers, such as Château Phélan-Ségur, make excellent wines even in less revered years. … Read more
Château Bourbon La Chapelle, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2012
($17): This, the second wine of Château Castera, a property classified as one of the Cru Bourgeois of Médoc, shows the value of Bordeaux. The current owners acquired Château Castera in1986 from famed Bordeaux merchant and property owner, Alexis Lichine. The last 30 years have seen enormous renovations in the winery and the vineyards that explain the current high level of quality, even of their second wine. … Read more
Château de Taillan, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2011
($21): This property, classified as a Cru Bourgeois, a category that accounts for less than 5 percent of all the properties in Bordeaux, reinforces the idea that Bordeaux is, indeed, the place for value-packed red wines. Less weighty and fruit-focused than California Merlot, this blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc has a beguiling combination of fruitiness and earthiness supported by firm, but not aggressive, structure and uplifting acidity. … Read more
Château Tour de Pez, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2012
($23): This is the kind of wine that made Bordeaux famously popular in the past and could be the kind to revive people’s interest in Bordeaux. Unusually charming for a young wine from St. Estèphe, it leads with herbal aromas followed by plenty of intensity without pandering to over ripeness. … Read more
Château Haut-Bacalan, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2012
($40): This wine shows that Bordeaux need not be super expensive nor put in the cellar for a decade or two before pulling the cork. Its slightly burnt ash character identifies it as a wine from Pessac-Léognan, the prestigious subregion of Graves. … Read more
Château de Sours, Bordeaux (France) 2010
($20, Old Bridge Cellars): Although the producer is always the most important information on the label, sometimes the importer’s name makes me sit up and take notice. For example, if Jeanne Marie de Champs’ name were on the back label, I would buy the wine. … Read more
Château Lassègue, St. Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) “Lassègue” 2005
($150, Sovereign Wine Imports): The 2005 vintage was exceptional in Bordeaux, and, indeed, throughout France. The weather was perfect throughout the growing season. The right amount of sun and the right amount of rain at the right time brought the grapes to perfect maturity. … Read more
Château Faizeau, Montagne-Saint-Emilion (Bordeaux, France) “Sélection Vieilles Vignes” 2010
($25): Montagne-Saint-Emilion, a “satellite” appellation of Saint-Emilion, lies adjacent to the north of that revered appellation. The wines from this satellite are never as grand or complex, but then again they’re never as pricey. Indeed, good values, such as Chateau Faizeau, are everywhere in Montagne-Saint Emilion, especially in a great year, such as 2010. … Read more
Château Lestage Simon, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2010
($20, Advantage International): A Cru Bourgeois, which is a classification level just under the Cru Classé, Château Lestage Simon is an excellent example of what Bordeaux does very well. It balances plenty lush fruit flavors (a predominance of Merlot speaking) with hints of savory notes and a lovely austerity. … Read more
Chateau Greysac, Medoc (Bordeaux, France) 2009
($20): Château Greysac, a consistently value-packed wine, is one of the most widely available Bordeaux in the U.S. marketplace. The 2009 is particularly successful because the fleshy ripe fruitiness and power of the vintage marries nicely with the savory, slightly bitter notes characteristic of wine from the Médoc.… Read more