($20): The wines that the Golan Heights Winery produces under their Yarden label just get better and better. This 2002 Chardonnay, from an organic vineyard, is certainly a member of the buttery school of Chardonnay. Rich and intense, it has enough balancing acidity because of the elevation of the vineyards in Galilee to hold it all together.… Read more
All posts by admin
California Syrah Adds Warm Shine to Winter
Syrah is the new merlot. The explosion in plantings of this grape shows how hot the wine is. In 1985, there were about 100 acres of syrah vines in the United States. Now, there are about 20,000 acres.
The controversy over the origin of the grape explains its two names.… Read more
Dow’s, Douro Valley (Portugal) Late Bottled Vintage Port 2000
($20, Premium Port Wines): Another winner from this outstanding vintage, Dow’s rendition is mellow, sweet and refined, coupled with an engaging earthiness. A charming choice to sip slowly after dinner. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2006… Read more
Fonseca, Douro Valley (Portugal) Late Bottled Vintage Port 2000
($22, Kobrand): Late Bottled Vintage Port 2000 ($22, Kobrand): Late Bottled Vintage Port or LBV, is a reasonable alternative to vintage Port. Bottled after five or six years of barrel aginginstead of two for vintage Portit needs no further aging upon release nor decanting since its sediment remains behind in the barrel.… Read more
Delamotte, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut 1997
($74, Wilson Daniels, Ltd.): I suppose it is no surprise that Delamotte, a house located in Mesnil (perhaps the single best village in the Cotes des Blanc, the area of Champagne where Chardonnay reigns supreme) should make a stellar Blanc de Blancs.… Read more
Bollinger, Champagne (France) Brut “Grande Année” 1997
($110, Paterno): Bollinger’s vintage Champagne, Grande Année, is rapidly reaching tête du cuvée prices, but at least the quality is there. No longer the bargain of past years (but what is?) Bollinger continues to make stunning vintage Champagne. More forward than their superb 1996, the 1997 Grand Année has that signature brioche toastiness, penetrating flavors without being aggressive, and luxurious length.… Read more
Georges DuBoeuf, Beaujolais Nouveau (Burgundy, France) 2005
($11, WJ Deutsch): Full, fresh and fruity, just as Beaujolais Nouveau should be. The concentration and extract make this year’s version very appealing and, hopefully, bodes well for 2005 Burgundy in general. 86 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2006… Read more
Author’s Expertise Makes Book an Intoxicating Read
Paul Lukacs, author of “American Vintage: The Rise of American Wine” (Houghton Mifflin, 2000), has written another great book about American wines that every wine lover, especially Francophiles, should own. The beauty of his new book, “The Great Wines of America: The Top Forty Vintners, Vineyards, and Vintages” (W.W.… Read more
This poor man’s Barolo is surprisingly rich
Barolo is the king of Italian wines. Made from the nebbiolo grape grown in a small, sharply delimited area surrounding the village of Barolo, near Alba in Piedmont, it requires a king’s ransom to put some in your cellar. Even after paying $50 to $100 a bottle and often more, you need plenty of patience because it’s a wine that needs many years of bottle aging before its complex glories emerge.… Read more
Reserve Wines Score, But at What Price?
Bait and switch, an unsavory tactic in the used-car business, is finding its way into the wine industry. Think of the bait as a New World reserve wine that is produced simply to generate a 90-point-plus score from a top wine critic.… Read more
Enjoy a vintage Port without the waiting
Vintage Port, though one of the world’s great wines, is made the same way as all Port. The grapes are harvested, crushed, and fermented for only three days, instead of the usual 7-10 days for red table wine. At that point, the winemaker adds brandy, which raises the alcohol to 20 percent and kills the yeast, stopping fermentation before all the grape sugar has been converted to alcohol.… Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2002
($20, Ex Cellars): Anyone who believes that Chenin Blanc makes only insipid dry wine has never tasted Baumard’s Savennières. The 2002 has a magical combination of honey-like ripeness (without being sweet) intertwined with an alluring minerality. A versatile wine with food, it is ideal with flavorful Asian fare.… Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume (Loire Valley, France) 2002
($60, Ex Cellars): A glorious wine, this is rich with ripe pear and honey flavors, but it also shows a captivating delicacy. The sweetness is balanced perfectly by focused acidity, providing a striking combination of richness and elegance. This is a must for your cellar.… Read more
Rancho Zabaco, California (United States) Zinfandel “Dancing Bull” 2003
($12): Even allowing for the fact that the Gallo empire can draw upon vast vineyard resources strewn across California, it still amazes me that they can pull together a Zin this fine for twelve bucks. This wine is actually more interesting and useful than many counterparts now selling for upwards of $20 in the current Zin-crazed era, and though its balanced, integrated profile won’t jerk you to attention like many other bottlings, it will win your admiration with its impressive combination of bold flavor and seamless integration.… Read more
Terrunyo, Cachapoal Valley (Chile) Carménère Peumo Vineyard Block 27 2002
($30, Banfi Vintners): This is an impressive Carménère released in Concha y Toro’s Terrunyo line. New World ripeness and suppleness are apparent, but the inherently earthy character of Carménère still shows, which makes for a succulent, layered wine. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2005… Read more
Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé 1999
($80, Moët-Hennessy USA): The 1999 rendition of Cliquot’s rosé is more forward than usual, but the house has nonetheless continued its streak of excellent Rosés with this exotically flavored offering. The strawberry and other red fruit flavors from Pinot Noir leap from the glass but are balanced by firm acidity and even a hint of tannin.… Read more
2001 Io has plumlike and peppery contrast
Back in the ’80s, when syrah, grenache, and mourvèdre were hardly known outside their traditional home in France’s Rhône Valley, a group of winemakers advocated growing them in California.
One of these Rhône Rangers was Byron ”Ken” Brown, who introduced Rhône varieties into the Santa Ynez Valley of Santa Barbara County while working at Zaca Mesa Winery.… Read more
A French Connection Lifts Oregon Vineyard
Although the film “Sideways” highlighted Southern California as pinot noir country, Oregon is also a leading source of superb wine made from that grape. Many comparative tastings have shown that Oregon’s pinot noirs rank with the world’s best, and to many consumers it has become that state’s signature wine.… Read more
Who Says New World Wines Don’t Develop?
The major criticisms of wines from the New World are that they have too much fruit and alcohol and too little subtlety and elegance. Critics go on to say that these wines are unbalanced and fail to develop complexity and layers of non-fruit flavors as they age.… Read more
Ktima Kir Yianni, Amyndeo (Greece) “Akakies” 2004
($14, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Rosé season is about spent in my neck of the woods, but this wine is certainly not spent, and it is worth a search for those living in warm climates. Admirably dry and restrained, it features very tasty fruit with red cherries and a bright, almost citrus edge.… Read more
A cabernet sauvignon for an occasion
Frank Altamura, the winemaker at his eponymous property in California, is a farmer at heart. ”The big fun is in the vineyards,” he says.
With no formal winemaking training, he learned by doing, first at Sterling Vineyards and then at other notable Napa Valley properties: Trefethen, Caymus, and Dunn.… Read more
A $10 Spanish Red That’s Easily Sipped
Although Spain has been producing wines since the Phoenicians settled there, they have become fashionable only recently. The modernization of Spain’s wine industry and leap in quality come from an influx of investment after it joined the European Community in 1988.… Read more
A vintage champagne that’s affordable
Like other fine wine, champagne can improve with age, as Duval-Leroy’s nearly 10-year-old vintage champagne demonstrates. Although 1996 produced excellent wines throughout France, no region did better than Champagne, where it will rank as one of the greatest vintages ever.
Most champagne is nonvintage; a blend of wine from several years’ harvests aimed at producing a consistent house style year after year.… Read more
Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough: A True New World Terroir
The French speak passionately about terroir, a concept maintaining that the character of a wine comes from the unique climate and soil where the grapes are grown. They claim grapes are mere vehicles for transmitting the flavor of the earth into the wine from which they are crafted.… Read more
Archery Summit, Oregon (United States) Pinot Noir Arcus Estate 2002
($75): Archery Summit, Oregon (United States) Pinot Noir Arcus Estate 2002 ($75): Arcus Estate, a 40 acre vsite, is Archery Summit’s largest vineyard. The Willamette appellation was introduced in 2003, which explains why it’s labeled simply, “Oregon.” (The 2004 vintage will carry the Dundee Hills appellation.)… Read more
Susana Balbo, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec “BenMarco” 2003
($20, Vine Connections): A ripe wine (the grapes came from a warm part of Mendoza), this retains juicy acidity which prevents it from being heavy. The smoky, earthy flavors burst from the glass and put a smile on your face. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 25, 2005… Read more
Duval-Leroy, Champagne (France) Brut 1996
($50, Partner’s Wine Marketing): Most vintage Champagnes from this monumental year have disappeared from retailers’ shelves, but happily Duval-Leroy just released theirs. Disgorged in October 2004 after 7 years on the lees, it has gorgeous toasty/yeasty qualities, the creamy elegance of Chardonnay and a seemingly endless finish.… Read more
Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Brut “Grand Siècle La Cuvée” NV
($85, Laurent-Perrier USA): Do not let the lack of a vintage date deter you from enjoying this fabulous tête de cuvée Champagne. Laurent-Perrier’s tradition is to blend their best wines exclusively from grand cru villages from the last three vintages to fashion this luxurious bottling.… Read more
Susana Balbo, Mendoza (Argentina) “Briosco” 2001
($45, Vine Connections): This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot is Susana Balbo’s flagship wine. Not a “fruit bomb,” this elegant, refined wine delivers alluring spice intermingled with smoky elements. Its long and classy finish shows that Argentina can produce very fine wine.… Read more
Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon is Fruity Yet Sophisticated
Chile, initially known for its well-made under-$10 wines, has entered the upscale market with bottlings in the $60-plus range, such as Almaviva, a joint effort of Bordeaux’s Mouton Rothschild and Chile’s Concha y Toro, Casa Lapostolle’s Clos Apalta, and Vinedo Chadwick.… Read more
Hungarian Tokaji a dry delight
With wine, as with most of life, it pays to listen to people with experience.
George Bardis, who runs the wine department at Martignetti’s Soldiers Field Road store and tastes thousands of wines each year, recently returned from Hungary where he sampled scores.… Read more
Katnook Estate, Coonawarra (Australia) Shiraz 2001
($22, Freixenet): Not your over-the-top Barossa Valley Shiraz, Katnook’s comes from cooler Coonawarra and shows plum and spice, intertwined with white pepper. It’s an elegantly styled Shiraz with great charm. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 11, 2005… Read more
Sauvion et Fils, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) Château du Cléray 2003
($10, W.J. Deutsch & Sons): I’m not a fan of most 2003 white wines from Europe because the scorching summer robbed them of acidity. But it’s hard to kill the acid in the Melon de Bourgogne, the grape from which Muscadet is made.… Read more
Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Pfingstberg 2001
($35, Pasternak): Albrecht’s regular Riesling is always quite good and well priced at about $15. This one, from the Grand Cru vineyard, Pfingstberg, is glorious. With lots of intensity and minerality, it delivers everything you’d expect from a grand cru vineyard.… Read more
Kumala, Western Cape (South Africa) Chardonnay 2004
($9, Vincor USA): With Kumala, the South Africans aim to compete with the Australian Yellow Tail and Little Penguin labels. And judging by this Chardonnay, the Aussies should watch out. This simple, but very good wine has subtle notes of pears, a whiff of creaminess, and delivers more than I expected for the price.… Read more
An elite chardonnay without the cost
It’s always a treat to run across a wine that delivers more than it is supposed to. And it’s a special treat when the wine is made from chardonnay, since wines made from that grape can be monotonous.
Although Californian and Australian chardonnay dominate the American market, the finest ones come from Burgundy.… Read more
A Conversation with Christian Moueix, Part II: Dominus Estate
Christian Moueix, perhaps the most influential wine figure in Pomerol and St. Émilion where he oversees his family’s ten properties, also owns Dominus Estate in the Napa Valley. During a recent trip to California to supervise activities at Dominus, he stopped in Boston and we met and tasted for three illuminating hours in my kitchen.… Read more
New Zealand Bubbly Deserves A Toast
Champagne, without doubt the world’s best bubbly, is a good but pricey way to alleviate end-of-summer blues. Often, we must make do with a less-expensive alternative, sparkling wine.
Notwithstanding the label of some California sparkling wines, true champagne comes only from a specified method using chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier grown in the Champagne region of France, about 100 miles east of Paris.… Read more
Torrontes offers sweet taste of summer
One sip of torrontes, made from Argentina’s most widely planted white grape of the same name, will keep you in the summer spirit; it is the perfect summertime wine.
It is likely the grape arrived in Argentina from Northern Spain, but its precise lineage and origin remain obscure, so don’t bother looking for a European counterpart.… Read more
Budini, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2003
($11, Vine Connections): Here’s what I refer to as a “pizza wine,” an inexpensive, flavor-packed bottle that can hold up to pepperoni. It is a fresh, ripe Malbec that, thankfully, is neither overoaked nor over extracted. Budini is the name of an Argentine cat that can appear larger than it is by puffing its fur when threatened.… Read more
La Posta del Viñatero, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec Angel Paulucci Vineyard 2004
($17, Vine Connections): Argentine wine producers rarely make a wine from a single vineyard because they fear any particular locale might be wiped out by an isolated hailstorm. This Malbec was worth the risk. Rich, without being heavy, it has unexpected complexity and polish.… Read more
Luca, Altos de Mendoza (Argentina) Syrah 2003
($30, Vine Connections): Laura Catena, daughter of Nicolas, who runs one of Argentina’s best wineries, aims to make small quantities of very high quality wines from particular sites. Although she started in 1997, her first commercial wine was from 1999 because rain effectively washed out the 1998 vintage for her.… Read more
La Posta’s 2003 bonarda is a lively dinner partner
By now, many wine drinkers are accustomed to ordering malbec, currently Argentina’s signature wine. But how many know or have even heard of bonarda, Argentina’s second most important red wine grape? As recently as 25 years ago, it was Argentina’s most popular red grape, as growers planted it after they ripped out malbec.… Read more
A Conversation with Christian Moueix
Perhaps people who spend their entire life with Merlot become like the wine: easy-going and charming, without hard edges. That describes Christian Moueix, a man who is remarkably straightforward, especially for someone so important and influential in the world of wine.… Read more
2001 Napanook a ‘second’ with first-class traits
Christian Moueix was born with merlot in his blood, which makes what he has done in Napa Valley all the more amazing. His family owns or controls the most prestigious properties in Pomerol, including Chateau Petrus, one of Bordeaux’s finest wines.… Read more
N.Y. Riesling lacks cloying sweetness
New York wines lack the cachet of those from California, which is too bad since some, like Riesling, are stellar and more exciting than their West Coast counterparts.
The Finger Lakes region, with almost 100 wineries, accounts for 90 percent of the state’s wine.… Read more
Bring on the Lo Mein, but Hold the Corkscrew
WINE NEW ZEALAND SAUVIGNON BLANC
Carry-out Chinese food has been one way to get through the worst heat spells this summer. That begs the question of what to drink with it.
Some prefer beer, while others complain that it’s too heavy.… Read more
Critic’s success story is an intoxicating read
Elin McCoy’s ”Emperor of Wine, The Rise of Robert M. Parker Jr. and the Reign of American Taste” ($25.95; Ecco) is an essential book for anyone interested in wine, but it would also be enjoyed by general readers, especially those interested in a uniquely American accomplishment.… Read more
Casa da Vila Verde, Vinho Verde (Portugal) 2003
($10, Signature): Casa de Vila Verde has overcome the problem that plagues all too many bottlings of Vinho Verde-cutting acidity without the ripe fruit flavors to balance it. The scorching heat of 2003 ripened grapes nicely in this northwestern part of Portugal, which explains the better fruit flavors-green apples-to complement that refreshing zing.… Read more
2002 Red Burgundies: Catch Them While You Can
Although they may lack the cachet of wines from small growers, such as Lafarge or Mongeard-Mugneret, the Burgundies made by négociants, especially in 2002, are not to be missed. Négociants are companies, either large or small, that buy grapes or newly made wines in bulk from growers.… Read more