($20, ExCellars): Savennières, a small appellation just down the Loire 
River from Vouvray, is another example in of why location matters. The grape, Chenin Blanc, is the same as in Vouvray, but here it is planted on slate or schist whereas in Vouvray the soil is mostly chalky. … Read more
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Santa Rita, Rapel Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “120” 2005
($8, Palm Bay): Chile continues to churn out well-made, well-priced wines. This, Santa Rita’s least expensive Cabernet, is a remarkable value. Ripe, without being sweet or overdone, it has smoky elements that add complexity and tannins that are firm, but not astringent.… Read more
Santa Rita, Rapel Valley (Chile) Carmenere Reserva 2004
($12, Palm Bay): 
Carménère, a grape originally grown in Bordeaux but abandoned there because the weather was unpredictable — often too cool — to assure consistent ripening, has found a devoted following among winemakers in Chile. They realize that when planted in warm sites, such as the Rapel Valley, Carménère can produce a wine with considerable complexity. … Read more
Bonny Doon, California (United States) Syrah “Le Pousseur” 2004
($16): This Rhone-styled wine from Bonny Doon is a little heavier and more alcoholic than their Cigare Volant, focusing more on black fruit as opposed to red fruit flavors. Not overdone as many California Syrahs can be, it retains elegance and a distinct peppery character, reminiscent of wines from the Northern Rhone.… Read more
Bonny Doon, California (United States) “Le Cigare Volant” 2003
($30): 
Randall Grahm, founder and winemaker at Bonny Doon, is known for his humorous labels as well as his talented winemaking. His Cigare Volant (flying cigar or flying saucer) refers to an ordinance promulgated by Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a town in the southern Rhone Valley just north of Avignon, that prohibited the landing of flying saucers within the town limits. … Read more
Santa Rita, Maipo Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2004
($12, Palm Bay): Location, location, location. This wine stands above Santa Rita’s Cabernet ‘120’ (reviewed above) because of the origin of the grapes. Chile’s Maipo Valley, just south of Santiago, has long been known as a prime place for Cabernet. Wines from this area often have an herbal, even minty, quality which can be quite appealing when it’s subtle, but is off-putting when it’s not. … Read more
Escudo Rojo, Maipo Valley (Chile) 2003
($15, North Lake Wine): Bordeaux’s Château Mouton Rothschild started a joint venture with one of Chile’s premier wineries, Concha y Toro, to produce what has turned out to be one of Chile’s greatest wines, Almaviva. In addition, the owners of Château Mouton Rothschild produce other wines in Chile, such as this Escudo Rojo (which is a literal Spanish translation of Red Shield, the meaning of Rothschild). … Read more
Dynamic Duo Changing the Face of Kiwi Wine . . . Again
After helping Cloudy Bay bring New Zealand wines to the world’s attention with its racy Sauvignon Blanc — Cloudy Bay’s 1985 Sauvignon Blanc awakened Americans to New Zealand’s potential for making unique wine — Ivan Sutherland and James Healy are changing the New Zealand wine industry again.… Read more
THE ESSENTIALS: Spain’s Priorat region flexes its muscles
Editor’s note: Beginning today, the Wine section will profile noteworthy wine regions across the United States and around the world, with an eye toward helping you in your wine-buying decisions. Look for the Essentials every few weeks in Wine.
In just 20 years, wines from Priorat have gone from obscurity to being the most expensive in Spain.… Read more
Domaine de la Renjarde, Côte du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2003
($13, Serge Doré Selections): Wines labeled Côte du Rhône Villages should be a cut above those labeled Côte du Rhône because they come from 18 selected villages with the potential to make better wine. Often they are not, but in this instance, Domaine de la Renjarde fulfills expectations. … Read more
Perrin, Côte du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Reserve 2004
($10, Vineyard Brands): The Perrin family consistently makes outstanding wine at their estate, Château Beaucastel, in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Their wines sold under the Perrin label represent their négociant business in which they buy newly made wines from others, blend, age and bottle them. … Read more
Cousino-Macul, Maipo Valley (Chile) “Finis Terrae” 2004
($20, Billington Wines): Cousino-Macul is on everyone’s short list of Chile’s best wineries. Finis Terrae, their flagship wine, is an exceptional value. A blend of roughly 50-50 Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grown in their vineyards, the 2004 has the uncommon ability to harmonize the ripeness emblematic of the New World and the elegance and complexity prized in classical Old World wines. … Read more
Catena, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2004
($20, Billington Wines): Malbec, a grape, which played a larger role in the Bordeaux blend of the past than currently, has become the signature grape of Argentina.
In Bordeaux, winemakers used it in the blend because, despite its potential for coarseness, it contributed intensity and color. … Read more
Castano, Yecla (Spain) Monastrell Tinto 2004
($7, Eric Solomon Selections/European Cellars): Yecla, a small area on Spain’s southeastern coast surrounding the town of the same name, is well suited for the Monastrell grape (a.k.a. Mourvèdre in France or Mataro in Australia) because it needs the warmth of the Mediterranean sun to ripen. … Read more
San Alejandro, Calatayud (Spain) Garnacha “Las Rocas Vinas Viejas” 2003
($14, Eric Solomon Selections/European Cellars): Although Spanish regulators awarded the Calatayud region, about 150 miles northeast of Madrid, D.O. status (official recognition as a unique wine growing area) about 15 years ago, it remains obscure, which probably explains why such bargains as this one still abound. … Read more
Buena Vista Winery, Carneros (California) Syrah 2004
($24): 
The sweet, ripe, plumy fruit character in this wine announces its California origins, but the gamy and other more exotic notes suggest an Old World origin to this wine. It’s a balance that works well. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 2, 2007… Read more
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (California) Cabernet Franc 2004
($35): Cabernet Franc, which comprises roughly 2/3rds of the blend of Château Cheval Blanc–one of Bordeaux’s greatest wines–is a tricky grape to get right. It produces wines with a distinctly vegetal character if it doesn’t ripen adequately. Fortunately, Clos LaChance got this one right. … Read more
Champalou, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Brut NV
($17, Kermit Lynch): Sparkling wines from the Loire Valley, usually made from Chenin Blanc, are less ‘serious’ than Champagne. But sometimes lively, less weighty fizz is just what you want. The major problem with bubbly from the Loire is that many are harsh and acidic. … Read more
The Crossings, Awatere Valley (Marlborough, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2005
($16, W. J. Deutsch and Sons): 
The Marlborough region of New Zealand, famed for its electrifying style of Sauvignon Blanc, is divided into two valleys, the Wairau, where it all started, and the Awatere. I can’t identify a consistent style yet to distinguish the wines of one valley from those of another so I lump them together as ‘Marlborough,’ which is identifiably unique as a source by contrast to other sources of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Domaine Serene, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay Côte Sud Vineyard 2003
($40): Oregon, particularly the Willamette Valley, is well known as the home of stylish Pinot Noir. Chardonnays from this valley south of Portland receive less attention, and acreage devoted to that grape actually fell in recent years, largely because early wines were made with fruit from a clone of Chardonnay from California that turned out to be unsuited to Oregon climate. … Read more
Philipponnat, Champagne (France) “Clos des Goisses” Brut 1996
($120, Ex-Cellars): Although Philipponnat’s Clos des Goisses is from a single vineyard, the vineyard’s exposure is varied, which allows blending of wines from different plots to achieve an extraordinary balance of power, elegance and freshness. The vineyard, almost 14 acres planted roughly two-thirds to Pinot Noir and one-third to Chardonnay, comprises a steep due-south-facing slope where grapes achieve full ripeness, and an east-facing portion where grapes become less ripe but have higher acidity.… Read more
Bridlewood Estate Winery, Central Coast (California) ‘Arabesque Reserve’ 2004
($24): Made from a blend of grapes traditionally found in France’s Rhône Valley, such as Syrah and Grenache, this wine is a California interpretation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape with an emphasis on sweet fruit flavors buttressed by a lively spicy component. 86 Michael Apstein Dec 19, 2006… Read more
The Grapes of Roth, Long Island (New York) Merlot 2001
($50): Roman Roth, the winemaker at Wolffer Estate, one of Long Island’s best wineries, is making his own wine from purchased grapes. This 2001 Merlot, his first vintage, is an outstanding wine and shows the potential for that region. Not overblown — and barely over 13% alcohol — its succulent black fruit, earthy nuances, fine tannins and good structure are harmonious. … Read more
Kim Crawford, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($17, Vincor USA):
As a group, Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region of New Zealand are highly consistent and rewarding. Crawford’s 2006 goes a step beyond, combining minerality, a grapefruit skin-like flavor and length with the region’s signature bracing citric component.… Read more
Veramonte, Maipo Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
($10, Icon Estates): This nicely proportioned wine delivers a winning combination of ripe black-fruit flavors and engaging earthiness robed with smooth, supple tannins. It’s hard to beat it at this price. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 19, 2006… Read more
An American in Beaune
It’s dinnertime in Beaune, the capital of the Burgundy wine trade, and Ma Cuisine, an unpretentious bistro, is packed and bustling as usual. When the door opens and an American with a charming boyish grin enters, the locals greet him with enthusiasm.… Read more
Cuilleron, Vin des Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes (Rhône Valley, France) Syrah 2005
($18, Neal Rosenthal): Do not worry about all the fine print identifying the origin of this wine. Just remember it is Syrah made by Yves Cuilleron, one of the finest producers in the Rhône, where that grape is native. Its classy, peppery profile is a great example of how Syrah fares in cooler climates. … Read more
Grant Burge, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Barossa Vines” 2004
($12, Wilson Daniels): Despite all its ripeness and intensity, this big Barossa Shiraz is not ‘over the top.’ The supple combination of spice and black cherry flavors would make a nice match with short ribs now that winter is here. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2006… Read more
Fox Creek, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz Grenache 2004
($20, Vineyard Brands): This blend of 2/3rds Shiraz and 1/3 Grenache is big and bold, but there’s surprising elegance in this 14.5% alcohol wine. Not for the faint of heart, it would be a good choice for a hearty winter casserole.… Read more
Philip Shaw, Orange (South Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc “No. 19” 2005
($22, Cumulus Wines): Philip Shaw, one of Australia’s and the world’s great winemakers, has finally set off on his own. After being winemaker at Lindemans, Rosemount and Southcorp, he has finally established his own winery in Orange. I assumed his wines would be good, but I never expected this Sauvignon Blanc to have such a stunning combination of subtle creaminess and an invigorating bite.… Read more
Drylands, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($16, Franciscan Estate Selections): A classic example of racy Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region, the 2006 Drylands has attractive pungency and length that makes it a perfect choice for Asian spiced food. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2006… Read more
Chateau Mont Redon, Cotes du Rhone (France) 2004
($14, Kobrand): Château Mont-Redon is one of the finest producers of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Their Côtes du Rhône, made from a similar blend of grapes grown just outside of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape area, has a satisfying combination of spice and fruit with enough structure to make perfect with hearty winter fare.… Read more
Baron de Ley, Rioja () Reserva 2000
($20, Frederick Wildman): This succulent, easy-to-drink wine from Spain’s Rioja region is filled with cherry-like fruit, supple tannins, and a little spice imparted by aging in American oak casks. It shows why Rioja remains the most recognizable name in Spanish wines.… Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) 2005
($17, Dreyfus Ashby): Freshness and brightness are two hallmarks of Beaujolais and this one has them both. With plenty of fruitiness and a balancing acid edge, I could envision drinking lots of this wine with steak-frites. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 28, 2006… Read more
HdV Brings French Accent to Carneros
Here on the Eurocentric East Coast — remember we’re nearly as close to France as to California — I still am asked, albeit less frequently than two decades ago, whether America produces wines comparable to France. As my daughters would say, ‘Duh.’… Read more
Michel Torino, Cafayate Valley (Argentina) Malbec “Don David” 2005
($15, Frederick Wildman): It’s a toned down version of Malbec, probably as a result of the elevation of the vineyard-over 5,000 feet-where the grapes don’t become overripe. It’s more elegant than most Malbec, with ripe red-fruit flavors and good intensity without being over the top.… Read more
Cape Campbell, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2005
($16, Estate Wine Distributors): It seems like every day another Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough arrives on these shores. That’s good, because as a group they are uniformly high quality and rarely disappoint. Cape Campbell fits that mold nicely with its zesty, cutting, citric flavors that practically grab your tongue. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard Sophia 2004
($50, Kobrand): 
I usually find wine packaged in heavy, oversized bottles to be overpriced and disappointing-the 2000 Chateau Mouton Rothschild was a distinct exception. Here’s another exception. A blend of mostly Merlot with a little Cabernet Franc to lend complexity, Craggy Range’s 2004 Sophia is big and powerful, but not overdone. … Read more
Domaine de la Quilla, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) Sur Lie 2005
($12, Robert Kacher Selections): The most distinctive wines from Muscadet, a large area at the western end of the Loire River where it empties into the Atlantic Ocean, come from the Sèvre et Maine sub region. The Sur Lie designation means that the wine ages on the spent yeast lees for a brief period which adds complexity (and, most importantly, keeps the wine fresh because the yeast act as an antioxidant protecting the wine). … Read more
Blackstone Winery, California (United States) Zinfandel 2004
($9): I wish California produced more of these inexpensive, yet satisfying, wines. Thankfully not a palate scorching, 16% alcohol Zinfandel, Blackstone’s rendition has the spice associated with the grape without the burn. It lacks the panache of a small appellation since the purchased fruit came from all over California, but it’s a delightful ‘everyday’ wine.… Read more
Alamos, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec “Seleccion” 2005
($16, Billington Imports): Malbec, a grape from Bordeaux where it hangs on as a minor part of the traditional blend, has become the signature grape of Argentina. It typically produces a powerful-but sometimes, clunky wine. José Galante, the winemaker for Alamos (which is a second label of Catena-one of Argentina’s leading producers) has mastered the grape. … Read more
Castano, Yecla (Spain) “Solanera” 2003
($14, Eric Solomon Selections): Yecla, a small DO (Denominación de Origen or DO is comparable to France’s Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, or AOC) on Spain’s southeastern coast is well suited for the Monastrell grape (aka Mourvèdre) because it needs the Mediterranean sun to ripen. … Read more
Castell del Remei, Costers del Segre (Spain) “Gotim Bru” 2004
($11, Eric Solomon Selections): Castell del Remei judiciously blends Ull de Llebre-literally, the ‘hare’s eye’ and the local Catalan name for Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to make Gotim Bru. They avoid the pitfall of making an ‘international’ wine dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, instead delivering a unique, spicy, yet refined wine. … Read more
Spring Valley Vineyard, Walla Walla (Washington) “Uriah Red” 2003
($50): A brilliant blend of mostly Merlot (77%) and Cabernet Franc, it conveys an extraordinary balance of black fruit flavors and chocolate nuances wrapped in velvety tannins. 93 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2006… Read more
Covey Run, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet/Merlot 2003
($8): Consumers looking for a super-ripe wine should avoid this one. But those seeking a balanced combination of ripe cherries and slight earthiness will marvel at the complexity-and the price-of this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2006… Read more
Terres Dorées, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) l’Ancien Vieilles Vignes 2005
($15, Louis Dressner Selections): Jean-Paul Brun’s Terres Dorées label is a reliable sign of quality in Beaujolais. Too many Beaujolais are just grapey and simple. Not Terres Dorées. The 2005 l’Ancien Vieilles Vignes has an attractive layer of earthiness, even minerality, that I assume is the result of vieilles vignes (old vines)-to complement its inherent fruitiness. … Read more
Château de Campuget, Costières de Nîmes (Rhône Valley, France) “Tradition Rouge” 2004
($13, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The right (west) bank of France’s Rhône River has many undiscovered areas, including the Costières de Nîmes, a small area stretching between Nîmes and Arles. For Château de Campuget’s Tradition Rouge, the usual Mediterranean suspects-Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre-are blended to yield a wine that delivers a hefty dose of spice and intensity yet retains finesse.… Read more
Santa Rita, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($10, Palm Bay): Don’t miss this bargain-priced wine. The pungent nose identifies the wine as Sauvignon Blanc, but it has complexity that is rarely seen at this price. Stony nuances and balanced flavors make you think you are drinking a far more expensive wine.… Read more
Torremorón, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Tinto 2004
($10, Ole Imports): Torremorón, a cooperative in Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s priciest and most renowned wine districts, offers this attractive wine at a gorgeous price. An under-appreciated asset of cooperatives is most of the members are poor and have not been able to afford to replant their vines. … Read more
Hornillo Ballesteros, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Mibal Tinto 2005
($13, Ole Imports): Made exclusively from Tempranillo aged without benefit of oak barrels, the Mibal Tinto shows the incredible depth of fruit flavors interwoven with minerality that Tempranillo planted in the soils of Ribera del Duero can produce. Try it the next time you grill a steak.… Read more