($56, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Carmignano, lying just northwest of Florence and Tuscany’s smallest DOCG, is really the original Super Tuscan. Regulations there mandated the marriage of Cabernet, either Sauvignon or Franc, with Sangiovese long before that blend became popular elsewhere in Tuscany. Capezzana, a top, if not THE top producer in the DOCG has always been an innovator as well. Since 2006, they have introduced the practice of holding back a portion of their Villa di Capezzana Carmignano for release a decade later so that consumers can appreciate how beautifully this wine develops. It’s a real treat to taste and yes, drink, a mature Tuscan wine without the expense and effort of cellaring it. This 2010, a mid-weight wine, is warming and suave, yet still bright and lively. With smoky and herbal nuances, it has plenty of that ethereal “not just fruit” character of mature wine, which adds another level of intrigue.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 14, 2020