($38): Louis Martini is one of the great names — a true icon — of California wine.  Their wines continue to enhance the Martini reputation even after the winery was acquired by Gallo, a company that had the good sense to maintain the winery’s integrity and not turn it into brand.  In addition to this Napa Valley Cabernet, Martini also makes one from Alexander Valley vineyards.  Tasting them side-by-side shows that the French have no monopoly on the concept of terroir.  This Napa Valley bottling is classic Napa Valley, showing power with black fruit seasoned with an olive-like accent of spice.  Earthiness lends a welcome “not just fruit” character.  Polished tannins simultaneously provide structure while allowing immediate enjoyment.  A hint of bitterness in the finish reinforces the idea that this is serious stuff.  It’s a good choice for autumn fare.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 18, 2016