($162): Trothe wines come exclusively from Andrews Family Vineyards, which the family has farmed for generations, in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA of Washington State. Although only available through their website, the public should be aware of these bold wines because they have a measure of elegance despite their size. … Read more
Category Archives: USA – Washington
Trothe, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) Syrah 2021
($148): Like the other Trothe bottlings, their plummy Syrah is bold, delivering ripe, black fruit flavors spiced with a hint of black pepper. The velvety texture, which seems to be Trothe’s hallmark, makes the wine strikingly suave, yet with enough structure so it’s not flabby. … Read more
Trothe, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
($234): Weighing in at 14.5 percent stated alcohol, this massive Cabernet still maintains its identity with a panoply of black olive and other savory elements atop rich cassis-like flavors. Certainly big and bold, it nearly verves into the overdone lane, but manages to stay focused on its path. … Read more
Caprio Cellars, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) “Sanitella” Estate Red Wine 2020
($88): An unnecessarily heavy bottle forecasts a hefty wine, which it is. A Cabernet Sauvignon-heavy blend pumped up with Malbec and Merlot, it delivers riper black fruit notes wrapped with suave tannins. Despite a richer and deeper profile compared to Caprio’s “Eleanor” bottling, it still has an engaging and balancing bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Caprio Cellars, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) “Eleanor” Estate Red Wine 2020
($68): This harmonious red, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (64%), Merlot (17%) Malbec (17%) and Cabernet Franc, speaks to the potential of Walla Walla Valley. Ripe black and red fruit notes dance on the palate effortlessly without a trace of heat or heaviness. … Read more
Caprio Cellars, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon “Red Label” 2019
($48): Caprio Cellars focuses on the grapes typically found in red Bordeaux. The extra reliance on Cabernet Sauvignon, 78 versus 62 percent, and no Malbec makes it a fascinating comparison to their “Eleanor.” Here, delightful savory, black olive-like, rather than berry notes dominate. … Read more
Caprio Cellars, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) “Eleanor” 2019
($60): Dennis P. Murphy, the owner of Caprio, named this seamless Bordeaux blend — his flagship wine — for his grandmother, Eleanor Caprio. This suavely textured Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant wine, with Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc lending supporting roles, is fresh and lively. … Read more
10,000 Hours, Red Mountain (Washington) Red Blend 2019
($35): It is fascinating to taste this Red Blend and its Cabernet Sauvignon brother side-by-side. They carry the same fine and up-scale Red Mountain appellation, and the same winemaking philosophy, presumably, but the result is refreshingly different. The bold power and fine texture are similar, but the focus is different. … Read more
10,000 Hours, Red Mountain (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
($35): This big and bold Cabernet Sauvignon-heavy (84%) Bordeaux blend displays suave tannins and a luxurious texture, which makes it fine for current consumption. It is clearly fruity, yet balancing savory, olive-like, flavors emerge. There is even a trace of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Tamarack Cellars, Columbia Valley (Washington) “Firehouse Red” 2017
($20): Given the blend, Syrah (33%), Cabernet Sauvignon (27%), Merlot (18%), Cabernet Franc (11%), Mourvèdre (3%), and 2% each of Grenache, Counoise, Sangiovese and Petit Verdot, they could have called it “Kitchen Sink Red.” But it works. Fruit flavors mix with savory ones. … Read more
Mullan Road Cellars, Columbia Valley (Washington) Red Wine Blend 2016
($45): Unsurprisingly, wine webinars in the era of Covid-19 are hit or miss. One that I highly recommend is the SommCon Geographical Digest Series, a collaboration between The Somm Journal and National Geographic, during which I tasted this wine, which was previously unknown to me. … Read more
Columbia Winery, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
($16): This is why people love Cabernet. Not just fruit, but enticing hints of herbs and savory notes penetrate this wine. Similar to Columbia Winery’s Merlot, this Cabernet finishes with bitterness, not sweetness, which I find is essential if you want to drink more than a sip. … Read more
Columbia Winery, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2016
($16): Here is a reminder that good character-filled wine is available for less than $20. A solid and deep Merlot, it combines herbal nuances with dark fruit notes. Supple tannins mean it’s perfect for a hearty beef dish tonight. A delectable hint of bitterness in the finish reinforces the idea that this Merlot is meant more for the table than for, “I’ll have a glass of Merlot” at the bar.… Read more
Canvasback, Red Mountain (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon “Grand Passage” 2014
($80): Canvasback, Duckhorn’s outpost in Washington State, has turned out a masterful Cabernet from the 2014 vintage. It’s a “big” Cabernet, to be sure, but not overblown, hot, or out of balance. Indeed, it is precisely the combination of expressiveness and elegance with its density that is so awesome. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) Syrah 2014
($35): A meaty, almost chewy, style of Syrah, it is certainly bold — 14.4 percent stated alcohol — but by no means overdone. Freshness in the finish keeps it alive and keeps you coming back for another sip. Toasty nuances complemented by a hint of bacon fat and suave tannins make it a good choice for hearty beef dishes this winter.… Read more
Mercer Wine Estates, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley) “Sharp Sisters” 2015
($25): This red blend, comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon (29%), Syrah (27%), Merlot (18%), Petit Verdot (14%), Grenache (10%) and Carignan, has the power you’d expect from those varieties. This big, bold, New World-styled wine shows a hint of “not just fruit” elements in the finish.… Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “Windthrow” 2014
($50): This Rhône blend — Syrah (76%), Mourvèdre (15%), and Grenache — delivers both power and elegance. Layers of flavors emerge with each sip, which harmonize and complement each other. The earthy, almost animal-like nuances, offset the ripe black fruit qualities. … Read more
Cadaretta, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Southwind Vineyard 2014
($75): This single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon — which does contain 5 percent each of Malbec and Petit Verdot — is considerably more powerful and youthful than Cadaretta’s “Springboard” bottling. At this stage, it’s quite closed with a combination of deep black fruit and mineral-like flavors peeking out. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “Springboard” 2014
($50): Cadaretta’s website describes Springboard as their “reserve-quality Bordeaux-varietal blend made from the top barrels of the vintage.” Despite the large proportion of heavy hitting Bordeaux varieties — Malbec and Petit Verdot comprise almost 1/5th of the blend — the wine does not hit you over the head. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “SBS” 2015
($23): Cadaretta has consistently excelled with their SBS bottling, using the initials of the grapes to name this wine. A Bordeaux-like blend of Sauvignon Blanc (90%) and Semillon, it’s a balanced, harmonious wine. The addition of Semillon adds a lanolin-like texture and depth without eviscerating the pleasant pungency of Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($40): This lovely young Cabernet Sauvignon delivers a balanced, palate-pleasing combination of dark fruit, herbs and other savory notes. Its suave tannins make this wine quite approachable and enjoyable now. A pleasant contrast to big, overblown Cabernets, Cadaretta’s emphasizes elegance over power.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Canoe Ridge Estate 2011
($30): This marvelous Cabernet, approachable now, combines elegance with power. Not as concentrated as Chateau Ste. Michelle’s rendition from the Cold Creek Vineyard, this release from Horse Heaven Hills displays more refinement at this stage, while still delivering plenty of oomph. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($13): The price belies the quality of this Sauvignon Blanc. Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Horse Heaven Hills bottling delivers the expected grapefruit-like pungency of Sauvignon Blanc, but with a dividend of richness and depth often lacking in wines made from that grape.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica Gold” 2012
($30): The 2012 Eroica Gold, the inaugural vintage for this super wine, may explain the exceptional quality of the 2012 Eroica. If I had to guess, the winemaking team compulsively selected grapes — ones with even a hint of extra ripeness went into the Gold Eroica keeping the 2012 Eroica even brighter and more vibrant than usual. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica” 2012
($22): In 1999, Dr. Ernst Loosen, a leading producer in the Mosel (the ancestral home of the Riesling grape) and Chateau Ste Michelle embarked on a collaboration to produce world class Riesling in Washington’s Columbia Valley. The collaboration made sense since Chateau Ste Michelle was among the first to plant Riesling in Washington and the Dr.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay Indian Wells 2012
($18): Though a more restrained — thankfully — style of Chardonnay, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Indian Wells bottling doesn’t lack flavor. A subtle creaminess enhances the spicy tropical fruit-tinged flavors. It’s 14.5% stated alcohol shows as a touch of heat in the finish, but doesn’t detract once you match this wine with grilled swordfish.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot Indian Wells 2011
($17): Chateau Ste Michelle has pumped up this Merlot by adding Syrah (15%) to the blend thereby creating a plumy ripe wine. Still the black fruit doesn’t obliterate the engaging subtle leafy funkiness characteristic of real Merlot. The overall impression is a lovely combination of deep dark fruit with hints of earth. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2011
($14): This plush, uncomplicated Merlot balances bright ripe fruitiness with hints of vanilla, presumably from oak aging. A touch of Syrah in the blend adds ripeness that borders on sweetness, which along with polished tannins make it well suited for stand-alone sipping.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica” 2012
($20): Eroica, a collaboration of Ernst Loosen of Germany’s Dr. Loosen and Bob Bertheau of Chateau Ste. Michelle, has been one of the finest Rieslings made in America since its 1999 debut. It’s a blend of grapes grown throughout eastern Washington, composed by Loosen and Bertheau (after all, the wine is named for Beethoven’s Third Symphony). … Read more
Cougar Crest Estate Winery, Walla Walla (Washington) Syrah 2008
($34): Founded only in 2001, Cougar Crest Estate Winery is a name worth remembering, at least judging from this stylish Syrah. Syrah has gotten bad press recently with many critics lamenting its failure to deliver distinctiveness. Not so with this one. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Columbia Valley, Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard 2010
($30): More tannic and muscular than Chateau Ste. Michelle’s very good Canoe Ridge Estate Cabernet, their Cold Creek Vineyard bottling is mineraly and dense. It is far less approachable at this stage than their Canoe Ridge Estate, which makes it a good candidate for a couple of more years in the bottle before pulling the cork.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($11): Chateau Ste. Michelle has a way with their “entry level” wines. Year in and year out their Columbia Valley Riesling is easy to recommend. So too is this Sauvignon Blanc. A beautiful combination of subtle tropical fruit offset by just the right amount of bite and verve keeps you coming back for more.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling Cold Creek Vineyard 2012
($18): Although Chateau Ste. Michelle does a consistently fine job with its entire range of varietal wines, they are especially talented when it comes to Riesling. This one is pure and precise. Its subtle sweetness is underpinned by riveting acidity, making it a superb choice either as a stand-alone aperitif or to accompany full flavored Asian cuisine.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hill (Columbia Valley, Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Canoe Ridge Estate 2010
($30): Horse Heaven Hills, one of Washington’s most prestigious areas for wine, is a name worth remembering. Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Cabernet from there is dense and smoky with a rich, almost chocolate-like nuance. It combines power and succulence without overdoing it.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay Unoaked 2011
($17): Chateau Ste. Michelle, one of the locomotives of the Washington State wine industry, produces a series of “limited release” wines. Wendy Stuckey, their talented white winemaker, made only about 2,500 bottles of this unoaked Chardonnay. Delivering a crisp green apple-like fruitiness, it has a refreshing austerity.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) Meritage Red Wine “Artist Series” 2009
($55): This is a big, bold, Bordeaux-style blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (65%) and Merlot (27%). Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot round out the blend. Polished tannins and sweet dark fruit make it lovely for current consumption especially with a fire-grilled steak.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard 2009
($30): A big step up from their very good Columbia Valley Cabernet, this single vineyard bottling from Chateau Ste Michelle is worth the premium. Although it’s more concentrated, its real virtue lies in the plethora of flavors it delivers. To complement the black fruit, there’s minerality and hints of earth that impart a savory component.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) “Boreal” Red Wine 2009
($30): Chateau Ste. Michelle is on a roll with their Rhône-style wines. This gorgeous blend of Syrah (95%) and Viognier is another winner. It’s another one limited release wine, only 603 cases, that is worth the search. The Viognier adds intrigue and lift to the Syrah.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) Mourvèdre Wahluke Slope 2009
($30): With only 613 cases produced, it will be difficult to find this wine. But it’s worth the search. At first glance, Mourvèdre, a grape that needs lots of heat to ripen, would seem out of place in Washington State. But one taste tells you it is not.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) Merlot Canoe Ridge Estate 2010
($30): Good Merlot wines, like this one, should deliver at least a hint of leafy slightly funky notes that offset the ripe fruit flavors. Bob Bertheau’s team at Chateau Ste. Michelle has managed to balance the fruit, herbal nuances and oak so nothing dominates while conveying what I call “not just fruit” flavors.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($15): At long last we are starting to see well-priced solid domestic Cabernet Sauvignon on the market. Bob Bertheau and his team have put together this straightforward Cabernet that delivers a delightful combination of fruit and herbs wrapped in polished tannins.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) Syrah “Ethos” 2009
($40): With Ethos, their Reserve bottling, Chateau Ste. Michelle brings together a fine amalgam of meaty and fruity flavors, both sides of what Syrah can offer. They should be congratulated because it’s clearly difficult to achieve this kind of balance. Bright acidity makes this a wine for food, not a stand alone aperitif.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay 2011
($15): Chateau Ste. Michelle knows its goals and achieves them on a regular basis. When they want to make a top of the line, head spinning wine, they do. When they set their sites on a more modest everyday type of wine, such as this Chardonnay, they also succeed admirably.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Waussie” 2011
($22): Chateau Ste. Michelle, a world leader for Riesling, has done it again with this distinctive one. Super-talented Australian winemaker, Wendy Stuckey, calls it “Waussie” (Washington + Australia) Riesling because of its crisp Aussie style. I call it terrific. Citrus-infused and dry (appropriately indicated on the back label with the International Riesling Foundations [IRF] scale), its riveting acidity may overwhelm you if you sip as an aperitif.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Pinot Gris 2011
($15): Although Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are the same grape, the wines under those labels tend to be different with Pinot Gris having more ripeness and presence on the palate than the lighter styled Pinot Grigio. Chateau Ste. Michelle has hit a bull’s eye with their Pinot Gris.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2011
($11): With clean, bright, grapefruit-like freshness, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s is a lovely expression of Sauvignon Blanc. It’s refreshing and zesty without being aggressive. It would be a good match for shellfish or simply grilled fish. It’s a great value. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2012… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2011
($15): This Sauvignon Blanc delivers a lot of complexity for the price. Pleasantly pungent, richness and a solid body balances the grapefruit-like tanginess. It has unusual length for a $15 wine. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 9, 2012… Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “SBS” 2011
($23): Both the Sauvignon Blanc (the SB of the SBS) and Semillon (the S) speak clearly, but neither dominates in this beautifully polished wine. Sauvignon Blanc explains the wine’s brightness and vibrancy while Semillon’s presence is clear from the creamy lanolin-like texture. … Read more
Chateau Ste Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Sweet Riesling “Harvest Select” 2011
($18): Sweet – yes, cloying – no. This long and refined wine has the requisite verve to carry the richness of late harvested grapes. Not heavy, it dances across the palate with remarkable balance. These people know how to make Riesling. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Dry Riesling 2011
($9): Year after year, Chateau Ste. Michelle produces a value-packed dry Riesling. 2011 was no exception. Flowery, with a hint of sweetness, great vibrant acidity gives it verve and keeps it in balance. Sip it by itself, have it with take-out sushi or spicy Asian cuisine. … Read more